Installation of sewerage in the house on screw piles. Sewerage in a house with a foundation on screw piles

Quite a lot of time has passed in thought, how to do the wiring of sewer pipes.

After all, the house stands on screw piles, the underground is cold. Despite the fact that sewer pipes are empty most of the time, they can freeze due to condensation of moisture entering the pipes along with air from the septic tank.

circuit diagram

After considering various options, I decided to do so.

1. Main line 110mm. There is a main drain line 110 in diameter, which runs under the house, up to the corner. There is a vertical transition and then the pipe goes already underground to the septic tank. Why not straight to the ground? Firstly, because I'm too lazy to dig under piles. Secondly, a fairly long distance to the septic tank and a high groundwater level. Subject to the required slope, the pipe to the septic tank will fit already at a decent depth, which increases the labor costs for its implementation.
   The air section in the future will be well insulated.
2. secondary highways. There are several of them in the house, in addition to sinks, a shower and a toilet bowl, there are also emergency ladders in wet rooms (an extremely useful thing) and water drains from household appliances. It was decided to start up these pipes in the ceiling. With exits to the toilet or independent exits to the main highway under the house.

In the diagram: the orange line, the main line, running in the insulation through the air, blue, those that go in the ceiling.
Branch 1
pipe 40 diameter from the washing machine, then transition to 50, connection to the branch of the shower drain, exit to the toilet at the toilet and down to the main line

Branch 2
An emergency ladder from the technical room, on the way to this branch, the emergency ladder of the bathroom is connected, through the drain of the sink we bring everything into the main highway.

Branch 3
The drain from the kitchen sink connects to the emergency drain in the steam room and dives into the main line.

The central highway goes a little at an angle, because the diagonal braces that connect the screw piles interfere with the direct laying under the house + a Christmas tree grows on the corner of the house, against which the pipe would directly rest.

Practical implementation

The implementation began with branch number 3, since its practical implementation was the simplest. Everything fit very comfortably between the lag, with the necessary slopes.

Then came the turn of branch number 2. Which turned out to be the most difficult due to its length.

In order to make the desired slope, I had to cut the counter lags, making a channel for the pipe to pass through them.

And cut a part of the counter lag from below so that the pipe passes under them:

And experiment a little by connecting a ladder from the bathroom to this branch.

The last branch, from the washing machine and the shower, was made according to the same principle.

Let's consider the key points of sewerage design in a house on screw piles: the location of the main pipelines and the procedure for their insulation, as well as a schematic diagram of the sewerage system in a private house. Screw piles and sewerage are directly dependent. +

Choosing a private house instead of the usual comfort of a city apartment, no one wants to put up with the inconveniences of everyday life. Sewerage, along with electricity, water supply and other engineering networks, occupies a key position in home improvement. The correct sewerage device consists of two stages: ensuring the supply of water and its discharge. +

In private low-rise construction, two types of sewerage are used: +

• centralized - part of the local sewer network;
• individual - is equipped in the absence of local centralized networks, requires coordination with the State Sanitary and Epidemiological Supervision, and when discharged into a reservoir - with environmental protection.

The issues of designing sewer systems are covered in the following SNiPs: +

• 2.04.01 "Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings";
• 2.04.03 “Sewerage. External networks and facilities”;
• 3.05.01 "Internal sanitary systems";
• 3.05.04 "External networks and water supply and sewerage facilities";
• 02/31/2001 "Single-apartment houses".

Features of sewerage in houses on screw piles

The preference for a pile-screw foundation imposes only one essential requirement on the installation of sewerage: the ditch for laying pipes must be separated from the piles at a normalized distance. That is why a project is being prepared in advance, where the plan shows the placement of screw piles and sewers.

Schematic diagram of sewerage

Clause 5.1.2. SNiP 02/31/2001 sewerage in a house on screw piles, connected to a centralized network, includes: +

• internal network;
• release from the building;
• outlet pipeline.

If it is necessary to build an autonomous sewage system, the schematic diagram is supplemented by a septic tank and treatment facilities. +

Internal sewer network

The choice of dimensions and configuration of the internal sewer network is determined by: +

• dimensions of the house;

• location of water sources.

The internal network includes plumbing fixtures (sinks, sinks, toilet bowls, bidets, bathtubs, showers, washing machines and dishwashers, etc.), which require their own drain to operate. Schematic diagram of the internal sewer network consists of: +

• The main line with a diameter of 100 mm, to which the toilet and bidet are connected;
• The main line with a diameter of 50 mm, to which all other plumbing fixtures in the bathroom and toilet are connected;

The main line with a diameter of 50 mm, to which all plumbing fixtures and equipment in the kitchen are connected. +

Outdoor sewerage

The lack of connection to a centralized sewer network makes it necessary to equip a reservoir for collecting wastewater on the site. According to the standard, it should not be located closer than 5-8 m from the house. The tank and the sewer house network are connected by a discharge pipeline laid in a trench with a slope of 2-2.5 cm per linear meter of pipe. +

What to choose: a septic tank or a cesspool?

Effluent from the discharge pipeline is collected in a reservoir, which can be a septic tank or a cesspool. +

A cesspool is a deep pit dug into the ground and reinforced with brick or concrete. Some of the sewage decomposes, some goes into the ground, but most of it is stored in the pit, so it is regularly pumped out. This type of tank is suitable for private houses with a small amount of drains, or for a while, until a septic tank is built. +

The septic tank consists of a septic tank where the effluent is decomposed by bacteria to an insoluble residue. The clarified effluents enter the filtration well, and then disperse through the filter layers into the ground. It is extremely rare (compared to a cesspool) that the septic tank will have to be cleaned of insoluble residues.

Do I need to insulate the sewer in a house on screw piles?

Often, a concrete foundation is chosen precisely because it reliably protects the house from the cold, including protecting sewer and water pipes from freezing. Regulatory documents state: there is no fundamental difference in the insulation of sewers under foundations of various types. +

Concrete easily conducts heat, therefore it protects pipes only from the wind, therefore, in both cases, pipes need to be insulated, and in cold regions, they need to be heated. This is much more profitable than heating the entire space under the floor of the house, unless it is used for any purpose. A number of measures will allow deducting the costs of pipe insulation from the estimate. +

Line slope. Compliance with the angle of inclination of 2-2.5 cm for each running meter of the sewer line guarantees the movement of drains towards the tank by gravity, which will prevent the formation of traffic jams and freezing of the pipes.

Year-round use of hot water. The water supply runs the risk of freezing at any negative temperature, while the sewer drains are replenished with hot water, so they are not in danger of freezing.

Laying pipes below the level of soil freezing. According to SNiP 2.04.03-85, in the North-Western and Central regions, pipes should be laid to a depth of 1.2-1.5 m.

It is important to observe all these conditions exactly, because only then you can refuse the cost of insulating sewer pipes. +

Mistakes and their consequences

Typical mistakes when designing and laying sewers in a house on screw piles: +

· Excessive convergence of piles with a sewer trench leads to loosening of the soil and weakening of the bearing capacity of the pile; +

· Outdated building materials lead to an increase in the cost of the estimate, so do not give up on modern plastic pipes, which, in addition to low prices, have a long service life; +

· 90 degree turns should be eliminated, replacing each with two 45 degree turns, as each right angle increases the risk of clogging; +

· The use of pipes of a smaller diameter than recommended by SNiP will lead to blockages due to insufficient throughput. +

As a rule, the laying of all communications is designed simultaneously with the construction of the building, but sometimes the sewerage in a house on piles or on a strip foundation is mounted much later, which causes a lot of inconvenience. However, the provision of such convenience in a residential building is a necessary requirement of elementary sanitary standards, so that, despite various obstacles, sewers are needed in any case.

You can make such a pipeline yourself, and we will talk about it below, as well as watch the video in this article.

Sewerage in a private house

We observe bias

Note. When the sewerage of a house is installed in the private sector, plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 mm and 100 mm are mainly used for this, but in addition, a diameter of 32 mm for a dishwasher or washing machine, as well as 150 mm for the street, can be required.

• According to SNiP 2.04.01-85 *, sewerage in residential buildings and in areas adjacent to them must be installed with a certain pipe slope, which directly depends on their diameter. Thus, the optimal slope for sewage drainage with a pipeline cross section of 50 mm is 30 mm per linear meter, for 100 mm - 20 mm and for 150 mm - 8 mm, respectively. If we are talking about (pipe 32 mm), then here you can do without a slope for the drain, since the water is supplied here by force.
• An increase in this parameter is allowed only in short sections (no more than a meter) - this allows you to limit the route as much as possible from blockages. And the thing is that with a decrease in the laying angle, water moving by gravity will not be able to wash away solid debris (food particles and feces), and with an increase in this angle, the liquid simply will not have time to do this.
• In addition, the instruction draws attention to the elbow fittings, which have 32⁰, 45⁰ and 90⁰ for all diameters.. So, a 90⁰ turn is allowed only from the riser to the vertical plane or for 50 mm and 32 mm pipes in the room, since in the first case a good water pressure is created, and in the second case there is almost no solid debris in the liquid. If, when laying the pipeline on the street, it is necessary to make a 90⁰ turn, then two 45⁰ angles are used for this - a smooth turn is not so conducive to the formation of blockages.

Fittings and reductions

During installation, sewerage for a house usually consists of pipes of different diameters, which never run strictly in a straight line, in addition, the laying plane can change, and for this purpose there are many adapter fittings. Such adapters are used for insertion, for turns, for changing the plane of the gasket, as well as for changing the diameter.

The largest variety of such fittings is made for 100 mm pipes, but, nevertheless, you can find a suitable adapter for other sections.

For sections of the pipeline more than 4 meters, as well as at turns, a revision is cut in, which is very similar to a tee, but its side hole is closed with a lid. Such an adapter is used to clear blockages in remote areas.

In addition, rubber reductions and seals are used for docking, which, in fact, can also be called reduction elements. Seals are used when joining pipes of the same diameter, when the end of one pipe is inserted into a slightly expanded glass of another (hence the reduction function) - the price of the seal is not even considered, since it is supplied as a kit.

But reduction may be needed when joining plastic with cast iron (one cannot do without it when replacing a riser in an apartment in a multi-storey building). Or, for example, when switching from a 50 mm to a 32 mm pipe (for washing machines and dishwashers) and, of course, when installing a siphon sleeve.

The pipeline (if it is not built into the floor or wall) is fixed for immobility using plastic or metal clamps of a certain diameter. Plastic, as a rule, is used for a small diameter (32 mm), in other cases, metal brackets are used.

Installation work in the house

First of all, regardless of whether it is a sewer in a frame house or in a brick, block or wooden structure, you need to mark the installation of bathrooms relative to the pipe exit to the street. Therefore, first of all, you need to determine where the sewer will go outside, as well as its deepening (we will talk about this a little later).

Such marking will allow you to determine not only the footage and diameter of the material, but also the number and configuration of fittings required for turns and interchanges of various types.

When the sewerage system is being installed in your house, after marking the places for installing bathrooms, you need to beat off the lines with the necessary slope along which the entire route will be located with a chokeline (painting cord). Thanks to these guidelines, you can make strobes in the right places or fix brackets (clamps) on this mark.

For the manufacture of strobes (grooves), a grinder with a diamond disc and a puncher with a chisel are used. Incisions are made along two reference lines with a diamond-coated disk, the depth and distance from each other of which depends on the circumstances. After that, with a chisel (it is possible without a puncher), the cut strip is knocked down, adjusting its depth if necessary.

In order for the pipes to be held in the strobe, it must be fixed with something (before applying the plaster or installing the box), and perforated metal tape hangers, which are used for metal frames for drywall, are very well suited for this.

Recommendation. The finished wiring must be tested by pouring water into it. If you notice a leak at any of the joints - do not rush to seal this place with silicone or sealant - in such cases, the joint must be disassembled, the seal will be corrected and reassembled. In order for the rubber seal not to interfere with docking with its friction, the end of the pipe is smeared with any liquid household detergent.

If the house has a technical floor or a basement, then you can avoid chasing the walls - just make a tap from each bathroom through the floor to the main pipe, as shown in the photo above. In these cases, the horizontal pipe usually has a section of 100 mm and its slope, respectively, should be 2 cm per linear meter.

This wiring method saves a lot of labor costs, as well as usable space in the room - you do not have to make a box in the room to hide the pipes.

Installation work outside

Now let's deal with the depth of the trench, which will mainly depend on two factors - the level of soil freezing in your area, as well as the distance from the house to the septic tank or cesspool.

For example, the maximum level of soil freezing in your area is one meter, and the distance to the septic tank is 20m, and at the same time you have to lay a 100mm pipe. The critical freezing point after installation of the sewer should be at least 10 cm above the upper wall of the pipe.

This means that at the house the depth of the pipeline along the upper level will be 110 cm, and at the septic tank or cesspool this figure will already be 110 + 20 * 2 = 150 cm. But this is just an indicator of the upper level, but not the foundation of the trench itself, and in order to determine the depth of digging, you will need to add 10 cm of pipe thickness plus 5-10 cm for a sand cushion.

At the bottom of the trench, pour a layer of sand 5-10 cm high - this way you can plan the soil so that there are no sharp drops on it and, moreover, hard sharp objects (stones, wire, fittings, glass) - this can damage the plastic walls . After planning, the sand should be compacted so that it does not later sink under the pressure of the soil.

It is more convenient to assemble straight pipe sections not in a trench, but on the surface, lowering the sewer route down in blocks of a certain length.

As we mentioned above, with a pipe length of more than 4 m or at bends, it is imperative to embed an inspection fitting, and in order to provide access to it, wells are equipped in such places.

The well itself can be made of concrete rings by punching inlets in the right places, but you can also lay out such a hole with ordinary bricks and plaster (it’s up to you to decide which is better, since it has nothing to do with the quality of the sewer line in technological and technical terms).

After you have mounted the entire route and checked it for joint tightness by draining the water, you can start filling the trench with soil. But the soil cannot be poured directly onto the pipe - firstly, there may be hard cutting objects (metal, glass, stones) and, secondly, the soil will in any case give a subsidence, which can lead to pipe deformation.

To avoid such unpleasant consequences, sand is poured to the ground, which should be at least 5 cm above the level of the upper wall.

But dry sand can also sink, and it cannot be rammed over a plastic pipe - plastic can be deformed. Therefore, in such situations, they act very simply - they moisten the sand with plenty of water, and it sags almost instantly, as soon as the water reaches the base of the trench. After such a procedure, the plastic line is no longer afraid of any subsidence of the soil.

The sewer ends with a cesspool or septic tank, which, by the way, you can do with your own hands, but this is a completely separate issue. In addition, a septic tank can be purchased at a store and its volume will depend on the amount of juice in a given house, but its installation should be considered in a separate article.

Conclusion

As you understand, you cannot make a toilet in a house without sewage, therefore, despite all the inconveniences associated with repairs, you will have to do everything step by step. It is a little easier to do this on the site, for example, you can bypass valuable trees using corner fittings.

Sewerage in a frame house is one of the conditions for a comfortable and cozy stay. It is extremely important to comply with all norms and rules when laying external and internal sewage, otherwise it may very soon stop working or become clogged, and leave residents without basic amenities. We will consider how to make a sewer in a frame house in compliance with all requirements.

Sewerage in a frame building

The sewerage system in a frame house of an internal type includes communications for draining drains that are connected directly to plumbing and household appliances in the room. To organize a water drainage system, plastic pipes are mainly used in a frame house.

Before cast iron products, plastic pipes are distinguished by the following advantages: they are easy to install and do not have a lot of weight, deposits do not form on the inner walls, and they have a long service life.

Wall mounting saves space.

Pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are connected directly to household and sanitary equipment, all other wiring, including the common unifying water supply, is carried out using pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm.

The internal sewerage in the frame is schematically divided into the following components:

• Plumbing fixtures.
• Discharge sewer pipes.
• Central stand.
• Fan pipe.

Internal sewerage in a frame house begins with the development of a schematic diagram of the placement of all elements of the system. At the next stage, a place is determined for the location of the central riser. Further, all communications are mounted, and a sewer outlet is equipped, a central riser is installed. At the final stage of work, the wiring connection is made, the fan pipe is removed, and commissioning is carried out.

Sewer installation

Sewer pipes in a frame house can be installed in an open and closed scheme. The first installation method is used extremely rarely, since the pipes from the outside do not look attractive from an aesthetic point of view and do not fit into.

The sewerage scheme of a frame house involves the placement of plastic pipes inside the walls, under the floor or in the ceiling. This method looks more aesthetically pleasing, while the process of construction, repair and maintenance work is much more complicated.

Sewer wiring in a frame house for a bathroom begins with drawing up a sewerage scheme, while taking into account the placement in the house of such premises as a kitchen, toilet, laundry room. If the scheme is drawn up at the stage of designing a frame house, all technological holes are made in the walls and ceilings during construction. This principle of construction can significantly reduce the cost of installing sewers in a frame house.

It is important to correctly determine the location for the location of the central sewer riser, to which pipes will be led from all internal sewer sources. The sewer riser in a frame house is best located in close proximity to the toilet in the house, this is due to the fact that, according to the norms, the pipe from the toilet bowl to the riser should not be longer than 1 meter. It is from the location of the riser in the house that the length of the sewer pipes and their placement in the house will depend.

Installation of sewerage in a frame house must be carried out with a slope. According to the current norms and rules, it is desirable to maintain a slope of 20 mm per meter of sewer pipes. Failure to comply with this requirement may result in too frequent clogging of the sewer or slow flow.

Internal sewerage

Since in our country the basement in a frame house is often abandoned in favor of 2-3 floors, it is advisable to leave a working underground at the foundation construction stage, under which drains will be laid. If it is not possible to organize a subfloor, sewerage branches to the main riser are carried out as low as possible in compliance with the standard slope.

Layout plan

At the first stage of arranging the sewerage system in a frame house, a basic layout of the sewer pipes is chosen with their own hands. The stage begins at the design stage of the house. It is advisable to choose such a size of the overlap lag so that even large sewer pipes can be located between them.

At the second stage, a diagram of the location of the sewerage system in the house is outlined. From each toilet, a line with a diameter of at least 110 mm is diverted, from the kitchen, shower, dishwasher and washing machine - a line with a diameter of about 50 mm. The diagram necessarily marked tees, turns. Next, the necessary meters of plastic pipes are calculated and the necessary building materials are purchased.

fan pipe

At the third stage, work is carried out with the arrangement of ventilation for each branch. The stage is extremely rare in our country. At the same time, in cases where the sewer line is made in the form of a “blind” section, often during the draining of water in the siphon, the water lock breaks, resulting in an unpleasant sewer smell from the septic tank.

On a note

You can avoid the appearance of a sewer odor by arranging a ventilation outlet connected to a fan riser, or by using special vacuum valves.

At the final, fourth stage, revision access to each branch of the sewer main is organized. Revision access allows you to quickly eliminate the blockage: the hatch opens, the cork is unscrewed, with the help of a special cable the blockage is pushed into the house riser.

Sewerage in a frame on piles

In a frame house, which is built on a strip or slab foundation, the outlet pipe is located under the foundation at a minimum distance to both the riser and the septic tank. The trench in this case is below the freezing level of the soil, as a result, the pipes do not need additional protection. Sewerage in a frame house on stilts has a number of features.

Things are much more complicated with the arrangement of sewers in a frame house on. In this case, the pipe runs from the house to the ground through open space. If the necessary measures are not taken during installation, when the air temperature drops to negative values, the outflow of sewer water through the pipes will be quickly blocked due to freezing of the liquid.

In houses with pile foundations, various methods are used to insulate pipes. Warming can be carried out in several ways:

1. A special shaft is assembled from polyurethane foam plates, through which external sewer pipes are passed.
2. Use of special heat-insulating materials.
3. Covers for sewer pipes are put on the pipes, which prevent freezing.

Regardless of the method used, the task for the owner of the house is the same - to protect the sewer pipes, which are above the depth of freezing of the soil, from sub-zero temperatures. You can consider all the main points on how sewerage is done in a frame house (video installation).

External sewerage

External sewerage in a frame house includes a centralized outlet pipe and a septic tank for wastewater treatment. The centralized pipe in the area from the exit from the house to the connection with the septic tank must be insulated with special heat-insulating materials and buried in the ground to a depth below the freezing point.

Failure to comply with the rules for thermal insulation of the central pipe can result in serious problems: from the banal freezing of the liquid and the violation of the outflow of effluents, to the breakthrough of the pipe. At the same time, it is extremely difficult to carry out work to repair the sewer system in winter conditions.

septic tank

A septic tank in a frame house is a special system that is used to sediment and filter human waste. Filtration is carried out by mechanical action or with the help of special bacteria, the type of filtration depends on the design of the septic tank. You can equip the system on the site yourself from reinforced concrete rings, or purchase a ready-made device.

After filtration, relatively clean water comes out of the septic tank, it undergoes additional purification during seepage through the soil, as a result, wastewater becomes absolutely safe and does not pollute the soil. Regardless of the septic tank used, the system needs maintenance every 3-5 years.

This article will consider some aspects of the design and installation of sewerage in a house on screw piles, in particular, the location of the main highways relative to the foundation, and the need for pipe insulation. Special attention is paid to the concept of a sewerage device in a country house.

Sewerage in the house on screw piles. Features of the sewerage device during the construction of a house on screw piles

The sewerage device in a house on screw piles has only one fundamental difference from the solutions offered for traditional types of foundation: when digging a ditch in which pipes will subsequently be laid, it is necessary to maintain a certain distance from the trench to the piles (more information in the "Album of technical solutions", the conditions for obtaining which are described in the section ""). Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to plan a compact arrangement of pipes and take into account the structural features of the building, indicating on the foundation plan on screw piles the main engineering systems, along which all installation work will be carried out in the future.

It is also important to remember that when designing and installing a sewerage system (if you decide to do it yourself without contacting a specialist), the general requirements of SNiP 2.04.01 “Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings”, SNiP 2.04.03 “Sewerage. External networks and structures”, SNiP 3.05.01 “Internal sanitary systems” and SNiP 3.05.04 “External networks and water supply and sewerage facilities”, as well as additional requirements of SNiP 31.02.2001 “Single-apartment residential houses”.

Analysis of the concept of a sewerage device

In accordance with clause 5.1.2. SNiP 02/31/2001 "Single-apartment residential houses" the sewerage system connected to the central or group network must include an internal sewerage network, an outlet from the house and a discharge pipeline, and an autonomous system - an internal sewerage network, an outlet from the house, a discharge pipeline, a septic tank and treatment structures.

Internal sewerage network

The configuration and dimensions of the internal network depend, firstly, on the size of the house, and secondly, on the relative position of the water supply sources. All plumbing fixtures and devices into which water is drained (sinks, sinks, toilet bowls, etc.) must be connected to it.

The schematic diagram of the device of the internal sewerage network in this case will look like this:

• main line D at 100 mm - connection of a toilet bowl, bidet;
• main line D at 50 mm - connection of all other plumbing fixtures installed in the bathroom: bath, shower, sink and washing machine;
• the main line D at 50 mm is the connection of all plumbing fixtures installed in the kitchen: usually a kitchen sink and a dishwasher.

External sewerage: discharge from the house and discharge pipeline

The scheme of the sewerage device, not connected to the central or group network, provides for the disposal of waste into a tank located at a distance of 5-8 meters from the house, through a special outlet pipeline.

The external pipeline is laid in a previously dug trench connecting the house to the sewer tank. At the same time, uninterrupted movement of wastewater will be ensured only if the ditch has a certain slope - 2-2.5 cm per 1 meter of the laid pipeline.

Sewer tank: septic tank or cesspool?

As we mentioned earlier, the outlet pipeline flows into a special sewer tank, in which wastewater is disposed of. Most often, a cesspool or septic tank is used as the final container.

Cesspool - a pit, the walls of which are reinforced with brickwork or concrete. Although the sewage that enters it partially decomposes and partially filters into the soil, most of them still remain in the pit itself. As a result, there is a need for periodic pumping of wastewater, as well as an increased risk of contamination of groundwater with fecal masses. That is why experts recommend using this tank for small country houses with a minimum amount of drains or as a temporary solution.

When using a septic tank, sewage from the pipeline first enters the sump, where bacterial decomposition occurs with the formation of insoluble inorganic residue. Due to this, already clarified water with a minimum amount of impurities enters the second chamber - a filtration well or an infiltrator. Thus, the use of a septic tank allows you to avoid environmental pollution, and you have to pump out of it much less often.

Is insulation mandatory when installing sewerage in a house on screw piles?

Often, leaning in favor of a concrete foundation, customers say that it seems to them the least cold. They are sure that choosing this type of foundation will allow them to keep the floor in the house warm and protect the pipes from freezing. Floor insulation is a topic for a separate big conversation, in this article we will try to figure out whether this statement is true for the sewerage system.

Based on regulatory documents, the approach to warming water supply and sanitation systems is the same for all existing types of foundation. Since concrete, for example, has a high thermal conductivity, the only thing you are guaranteed to be protected from is the wind. In the case of screw piles, the same effect can be achieved, for example, by sewing up the basement of the house with decorative panels, siding, fiberboard or chipboard, etc. Thus, both in the case of a concrete foundation and in the case of a foundation on screw piles, it will be much easier to take care of local protection (insulation and heating) of pipes than to warm up the entire underground space.

It should be said that insulation can be completely abandoned if during the construction process you take care of several conditions.

• Correct line angle. Since the installation of the sewerage system is carried out, as a rule, by gravity, then at a certain slope (2-2.5 cm per 1 meter of the laid pipeline), water will not stagnate in the pipes, which will avoid blockages, traffic jams and subsequent freezing at low temperatures.
• Constant availability of hot water in the house. If any temperature below 0 ° C is sufficient for freezing of a water pipe, then freezing of a sewer pipe of a standard diameter, taking into account the fact that water mainly enters the drain is warm, often with organic impurities, and does not linger in the pipe, is practically excluded in any event. in our latitudes of negative temperatures.
• The location of the pipes beyond the depth of soil freezing. In accordance with SNiP 2.04.03-85 “Sewerage. External networks and structures ”the minimum depth of the pipes depends on the climatic features of a particular region, the composition of the soil and the level of groundwater. For example, for the Central and North-Western regions of Russia, the freezing depth indicator is in the range of 120-150 cm. Accordingly, the sewer pipe in these regions should be laid below the specified soil freezing level.

If you cannot meet at least one of the listed conditions, then it is better to take care of the insulation of the sewer.

Mistakes that are made when installing sewerage in a house on screw piles and their possible consequences

• Non-observance of the optimal distance from the sewer pipe to the screw pile. In this case, the soil near the pile becomes loose, which inevitably leads to the loss of the bearing capacity of the screw pile.
• The layout of water pipes in the underground space horizontally leads to clogging and subsequent freezing.
• The use of obsolete building materials entails an increase in the cost of work and, even worse, a reduction in the life of the system. For example, experts recommend abandoning classic cast iron products in favor of polypropylene or PVC pipes, tees and fittings, as they are much cheaper, but much more durable.
• Using one 90-degree bend when turning increases the likelihood of blockages. This can be avoided by mounting the turns with two 45 degree elbows.
• Application for the installation of gray kitchen drains, as well as for the removal of used water from the bathroom pipes with a diameter of less than 50 mm, and for waste toilet pipes with a diameter of less than 100-110 mm. In this case, they simply will not cope with the flow of water, which will lead to the formation of traffic jams and blockages.

Free technical solutions for sewerage from the company "GlavFundam"

Our company provides its customers with schemes for the installation of water supply and sewerage systems for the foundation on screw piles, as well as three typical options for technical solutions for warming communications.

Technical solutions for the installation and insulation of communications contain information on how deep pipes should be laid, at what distance from screw piles they should be located, as well as how to properly insulate sewers and much, much more.