Climbing rose - planting and care in the open field, tips and tricks. Curly rose: planting and care

You can rightly be called the queen of the garden, and with proper care and landing, it will become the subject of your pride and the envy of your neighbors.

Let's talk about how to competently care for such a beauty so that she pleases you for the whole season.

Brief description and popular varieties

climbing roses ideal for, arches, or decorating the wall of a private house. These are tall, climbing and tenacious plants that definitely need them. They prefer a warm and mild climate and a mandatory shelter for the winter. According to the international classification, 3 characteristics of roses are distinguished:

• semi-climbing roses, growing from 1.5 to 3 m in height;
• climbing- reach a height of 5 m;
• curly- reach 15 meters.

1. climber- resembles a tall upright. The flowers are different big size and strong aroma. Great decoration flat wall, or grids. Common varieties:

• pinkcloud
• Paul Scarlet
• Rosanna

2. Rambler distinguished by its flexibility and easy bending of the shoots. Densely decorated with small weak-scented flowers that grow only on the shoots of the second year:

• Ghistiane de Felidonde
• Bobby James
• Paul Noel

3. climbing- non-frost-resistant variety, which even under cover may not overwinter. The inflorescences are small and rare, but the diameter of the flowers can be from 5 to 11 cm, and the plant also has a strong aroma.

• Orange Triumph
• Cecilia Brunner
• City of York

4. Climbing rose Kordesa(Hybrid Kordesii) refers to unpretentious and winter-hardy, blooms from early summer to late October. Is different perfect shape flower and long flowering. Can winter without shelter:

• Hamburger Phoenix
• Flammentants

5. Lambert- plentifully flowering shrub with dark foliage, disease resistant:

• Munich

6. - shrub, whose height can reach 3 m, abundantly strewn with white or light pink simple flowers 1.5-2 cm in diameter with a slight aroma:

• Snow White
• General Tetar
• Grousse en Zabern
• Melita
• Mosel

7. - creeping and tenacious shrub, originally from Japan and China, reaches a height of 6 m, has large curved thorns:

• Excelsa
• Red poppy
• Alberic Barbier
• Glen Dale
• Aelita

8. - from 5 to 12 m tall, flowers are small-1-3 cm. It differs early flowering from April to early July. There are such varieties of Banks roses:

• Alba Plena
• Banksia hybrid
• Lutea Captivity

Did you know?In Germany, near the walls of Hildesheim Castle, grows the oldest rose bush in the world, which is already about 1000 years old.

Growing conditions

Landing time

The best time for planting will be warm May days, when the earth has warmed up and stable warm weather has settled. Then you will know exactly what will take root and be ready for wintering. You can plant it in the fall, but it is better to do it in September, so that the rose has time to take root before the first frost.

How to plant a climbing rose

Selection and preparation of seedlings

The day before the expected date, the seedlings are soaked in water. It is advisable to dip not only root system, and the whole seedling as a whole. Before planting, we cut off the long tufted processes of the root system, leaving 15-20 cm on each side. You can disinfect the plant by dipping it in a solution of 3% blue vitriol. We lubricate the cut places on the shoots with garden pitch, and on the roots - in order to avoid infection with a fungus or infection. These simple procedures will contribute to rapid and proper growth and development.

Pit preparation

Important!A climbing rose is not a plant that will be happy with excessive watering. From this, the humidity of the air around the bush rises too much, contributing to the appearance and development of fungal diseases.

Fertilizer

Fertilize complex. Repeat top dressing every 2-3 weeks. The second top dressing can be carried out with a mixture of ash and diluted with water, for basal top dressing, as this will contribute to bright and abundant flowering. All top dressing should be carried out during the growing season and before flowering.

From mid-summer, roses stop fertilizing and switch to potassium-phosphorus. This is necessary for the gradual preparation of the plant for a state of rest and wintering.

pruning

It belongs to the most important and responsible procedures for its care, since the quality of flowering and the formation of new strong shoots directly depend on it.

Every spring, regardless of the type of roses, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing damaged and unhealthy shoots. Further pruning directly depends on whether you have a single or re-flowering shrub.
In a climbing rose that blooms once a season, buds appear both on the shoots of the current year and on last year's. On old shoots, replacement shoots appear all summer long, which will take over the bulk of flowering next year. Therefore, 3-5 of the strongest two-year shoots are left, and the same number of annual shoots.

If the rose is re-blooming, then the buds appear on all shoots up to 4 years old, and only weaken by the 5th year. Therefore, the main shoots in this case are removed for the 4th year of growth, leaving room for new ones.

Pest and disease treatment

The most dangerous and common climbing rose diseases are:

1. Her appearance provokes high humidity air in the heat and excessive watering. It is characterized by white spots on the trunk and leaves. All affected parts are cut out and burned, treating the plant or copper sulphate.

2. . Appears as brown or brown spots on leaves and stems. The affected areas are cut out, slightly capturing the unaffected nearby, and burned. The plant is treated with Bordeaux liquid.

3. . They are called small brown spots, which eventually grow and affect the entire plant. Now there are no drugs on the market that can overcome this disease, so it is important to carry out prevention. Before buying, carefully inspect the plant for stains. Before planting, dip in a solution of copper sulfate. And if the disease has already been identified, then immediately cut out and burn all affected areas.
The most common lovers to enjoy a rose -

I decided to replenish my rose garden and purchased several bushes of weaving roses, but I don’t know how to grow them. Tell me, where is it better to plant weaving roses and how to properly care for them in order to grow beautiful lush bushes?

Weaving roses are indispensable when creating vertical gardening. Arches and gazebos decorated with this variety of roses look gorgeous.

But in order for a weaving rose to decorate the site with its appearance, you need to know the features of its planting and properly care for it. After all, mistakes made in care will not only spoil the appearance of the shrub, but can also lead to its death. So, if a rose seedling has already been purchased, first of all, the question arises of where to plant it and how to take care of the weaving rose in the future.

Conditions for planting weaving roses: time and place of landing

In order for young bushes to have time to settle down in a new place and get stronger before the onset of the first frost, the most optimum time for planting will be the end of spring.

When choosing a place for a weaving rose, you must be guided by two rules:

• this variety does not like drafts;
• such a rose loves the sun, but is afraid of direct sunlight.

You can not plant a plant on the corner of the house, where drafts are a fairly common occurrence.

The place for planting a rose should be in the shade for at least two to three hours a day, otherwise the plant will get burned and the petals will burn out. And in a too shady part of the site, the bush will grow slowly and bloom poorly.

In the case of planting several bushes between them, you need to make an indent of 1 m, it is better to increase the distance between the rows to 2 meters. Also, do not plant very close to the wall, you need to retreat to a distance of up to 50 cm.

Soil preparation before planting roses

Experienced flower growers advise preparing the soil a few weeks before planting roses. To do this, dig the place chosen on the site, fertilize the soil with peat, lime and humus. Dig a planting hole 50 cm deep and 50 cm wide.

Before planting a seedling, it is necessary to cut the roots and shoots with secateurs, leaving a maximum of 30 cm, and treat the cut points with garden pitch.

Mix the earth from the pit with manure (preferably mullein) and cover it with a young rose bush.

Climbing rose basics

Climbing rose care includes the following:

1. Watering. It is enough to water the rose once a week, the shrub tolerates dry summers very well, but is sensitive to an excess of moisture.
2. top dressing. Roses are fertilized with manure, organic and mineral fertilizers.
3. Timely treatment of diseases. If the leaves are covered with white spots ( powdery mildew), the bush should be processed twice (with a break) Bordeaux mixture. When brown spots appear on the shoots (bark cancer), they urgently need to be cut out, capturing part of a healthy shoot, and burned.
4. Pruning. With the advent of spring, cut dry and weak branches on the bush, and in the summer - cut flowers that have faded.
5. Shelter for the winter. They begin to do it only when the temperature drops to 5 degrees below zero. To do this, tie the branches, remove the shoots from the support and put on the leaves, and cover with foil on top.

With proper care for a climbing rose lush bloom it will be possible to admire more than one year.

Video on how to properly plant and care for a climbing rose

weaving roses

Perhaps it is difficult to find a person who is indifferent to roses. Poems are composed and paintings are written about them. These magnificent plants inspire people to be creative and creative. No other flower speaks of love the way a rose does so exquisitely. Impossible to imagine blooming garden without the rose, its majestic queen.

Thanks to progress, people have learned to invent new varieties and colors of roses. AT modern world Most species exist through selective breeding. For example, climbing roses.

Climbing roses got their name due to the growth of shoots. The shoots are long, creeping, outwardly similar to lashes. They are rich in green. Covered with thin uneven spines. Climbing rose flowers can be double, semi-double or simple in various colors. This chic plant blooms in early summer for about 30-35 days, delighting others with its unobtrusive, subtle fragrance. Most of varieties of weaving roses have winter hardiness. But still they need light and dry shelter. These plants are photophilous, prefer the southern and southwestern sides of the garden.

Varieties of weaving roses

A bunch of different varieties weaving roses can be divided into three main groups:

Rambler These are real climbing roses. Often they are called curly. Their inflorescences are large and consist of small flowers. The shoots of the Rambler rose are flexible and rather long (up to six meters). This variety is notable for the fact that, although roses bloom only once a year, before and after this event they do not cease to please the eye with chic greenery.

Conditions for good growth and flowering roses Rambler:

• Young shoots are necessary for ramblers for the next flowering. For successful wintering, they must be mature. In view of this, it is necessary to pinch the shoots for 3-4 buds at the very beginning of autumn. And in the spring, the plant needs to trim the shoots by about ten or fifteen centimeters.
• This type of rose requires support. It can be a fence, a vertical arch, or a nearby rose bush. Rose Rambler is easy and convenient to guide so that the shoots beautifully wrap around the support you have chosen.
• There is a type of ramblers called Bobby James. This is one of the best representatives of this group of climbing roses. In appearance, these roses resemble large flowers cherries. Bobby James blooms in such a way that shoots are not even visible among the inflorescences. This fact alone makes this species roses optimal solution if your site has an unsightly wall and fence. Rose growers are especially attracted by the noble appearance and musky aroma of these chic roses.

climber , or climbing roses differ from ramblers in hard and large shoots that can climb up the support. Climbers are obtained by bud mutations of hybrid tea roses and floribunda roses. Their flowers, often terry, beautifully shaped and with a delicate aroma, attract attention from afar. These roses delight the owners with their lush flowering twice a year.

Conditions for good growth and flowering of Climber roses:

living in middle lane Russian gardeners will not be able to fully enjoy the potential of this species. This is because the tough climber shoots are not subject to the mechanical efforts of a person. They are hard to press to the ground to hide from winter cold. As a result, they do not suffer from frost as much as from damage as a result of forced shelter. In view of the foregoing, in regions with cold winter you need to choose climber varieties with the most flexible stems.

Climber group roses need autumn pruning unripe part of the shoots. Also, to create a good bush shape, you need to get rid of too long overwintered shoots. To rejuvenate the bush, every year it is completely deprived of one or two old shoots. After summer flowering, faded parts (inflorescences and part of the shoot up to the first leaf) must be removed.

Roses Super-Rambler - this is a real work of art, made by a German breeder. Super-rambler differs from previous species by a noticeably increased flowering time - throughout the entire summer season. Their shoots are much shorter than those of their predecessors. There are several varieties of super-ramblers: Super Excelsa, Super Dorothy and others.

How to choose and plant a weaving rose?

Without a doubt, having read the article up to this point, it is impossible to remain indifferent to weaving roses. Omitting the enumeration of all the many advantages of this type, it is important to focus on your capabilities. After all, it is on the growing conditions of weaving, and any other types of roses, that their viability depends. So what should you think about first?

The soil. Climbing roses will be able to actively grow and exist normally only in soil with good water permeability. This means that the ground must be loose enough for water to penetrate much deeper than the roots. Such conditions are optimal for the roots of the plant - the water in them will not stagnate, they will not rot.
What to do if the groundwater in your area is very close to the intended place for planting roses? There is a very original and at the same time competent solution to the problem. You can dig a big hole and put a big stone in it to keep water out of the roots. Rose growers also sometimes concrete the bottom of such a pit. This ensures the safety of your favorite plant. Naturally, after these actions, you need to make an embankment of good earth on the artificial bottom you have built.
Such a security measure is quite reasonable. Contrary to popular belief, concreting the bottom will not damage the root system of the rose. Having met an obstacle, the roots will stop growing down and will continue to grow horizontally.

Climbing roses are ideal for soils with a moderate clay content. They are water and breathable. This is a significant plus. Heavy soil, oversaturated with clay and too light sandy, are not able to provide roses. necessary conditions for the normal development of the root system.

What to do if your site has unsuitable soil? The main thing is not to be disappointed and not to stop halfway. Is there a lack of clay in the soil? Add enough clay to it. Not enough sand? Find the strength in yourself to saturate the earth with sand. These actions will improve the circulation of water and air in the soil. If the earth is old and there is no nutrients, you can not be limited only to the addition of sand or clay. It is necessary to introduce fertilizers into the soil - humus or humus.

Place. For normal growth, roses need to have enough space. It is necessary to plant this plant at a reasonable distance from others. We must not forget that roses are photophilous. Therefore, when choosing a place to land, you should pay attention to this Special attention. Will the rose be sufficiently lit during the first half of the day? If not, choose a better place.

Time. Their viability directly depends on the right time for planting roses. It is best to plant the queen of the garden on warm May days. The air should be warmed up to ten - twelve degrees of heat. Planting roses in autumn months, it is worth remembering the danger of early frosts and the death of your favorite plant.

If you want to decorate your yard bright colors If you want your guests to admire your garden, choose roses. Doubt? Start with one rose. After all, it’s not for nothing that they say: “How one person can become the whole world, one rose can become a blooming garden.”

Climbing roses have shoots that are several meters long. The flowers are white, pink, red, yellow from 2.5 to 9 cm, simple to semi-double, odorless, collected in inflorescences. Flowering is long, begins in June.

When describing climbing roses, it should be noted that they occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening, go well with small architectural forms, are indispensable for creating decorative columns, pyramids, arches, tapestries, green decoration of the walls of buildings, balconies, arbors.

There are so many varieties of climbing roses that would take a lot of time and space to describe. However, according to the nature of growth, these roses can be divided into three groups:

• Curly - from 5 m to 15 m high.
• Climbing height - from 3 m to 5 m.
• Semi-climbing height - from 1.5 m. - 3 m.

The formation of shoots climbing roses goes continuously, so that the phases of flowering and budding are very stretched. The total duration of flowering is from 30 to 170 days. Among the re-blooming roses, a group of large-flowered, or Climings, stands out for decorativeness.

Growing climbing roses

Choosing a place for planting and growing. For cultivation it is necessary to choose sunny and ventilated places. Roses - light-loving plants, so it is best to plant them on the walls and supports of the southern and southwestern exposure. Preference should still be given to the southern exposure; good lighting helps the growth ripen, on which flowering will occur next year.

Groundwater should be no higher than 70-100 cm, optimally 100-150 cm. In swampy, damp places prone to flooding, these flowers cannot be grown.

When choosing a place to plant, be sure to think about how you will lay the plants on the ground for shelter for the winter. Climbing roses grow to a height of more than 2.5 m. When laid for the winter, they should not “cover” other plants that do not require shelter.

What should be the soil. For the cultivation of climbing roses, fertile, loose, moderately moist soil with a fertile layer of at least 30 cm is required. And so, in the place of the future rose garden, it is necessary to prepare the soil: for this purpose, it is better to use rotted manure (cow), if the soil is too heavy, you need to add sand, peat, which will give the soil friability.

Selection of seedlings. The seedling should have 2-3 well-ripened lignified shoots with green intact bark and a developed root system with many thin roots (lobe). The root neck of a seedling at the age of 1-2 years looks like a slight thickening separating the wild stock and the stem of the cultivated plant.

Planting climbing roses

When is the best time to plant roses? In central Russia, it is preferable to plant roses in autumn from September to the end of October, or in early spring from mid-April to the end of May. In autumn, plants must be planted 2 cm deeper than in spring (total depth 5 cm), so that the shoots of planted roses do not dry out and do not suffer from the approaching cold weather, they are sprinkled with earth and sand to a height of 20-25 cm. sub-zero temperatures plants cover for the winter.

Preparing for landing. Seedlings with an open root system are soaked in water a day before planting. Leaves are removed from the shoots and unripe and broken shoots are cut out with a sharp pruner. Aboveground part shorten to 30 cm, long roots are also cut off - up to 30 cm, cutting rotten roots to a healthy place. The buds located below the vaccination site are removed - wild shoots will develop from them. Seedlings are disinfected by dipping in 3% copper sulphate.

Landing. landing pits prepare the size of 50 × 50 cm, the distance between plants should be at least 2 - 3 meters. When planting, do not strongly bend the roots of plants. They are supposed to be freely laid out in a hole so that they go to the bottom without bending upwards, while holding the seedlings at such a height that the grafting site is about 10 cm below the soil surface. (Other varieties of roses are planted 5 cm deep, but climbing roses are planted deeper.)

Then the hole is filled two thirds of the depth with earth, compacted so that it fits properly to the roots and the plant is watered. Thorough watering in the spring is especially important. Only after the water has been absorbed, the pit is filled with earth, and the seedling is spudded to a height of at least 20 cm.

Before the onset of frost, the level of hilling is raised. In the spring, this sprinkled earth will protect the plant from scorching rays sun and drying winds. For greater reliability, the seedling can be slightly shaded with needles. In dry weather, it is watered every 5-6 days. Three weeks after the spring planting, the ground is carefully raked from the bush. It is advisable to do this on a cloudy day, when there is no danger of a sharp drop in temperature at night.

In early April, they open and process roses in the same way. autumn planting. At the same time, care must be taken to ensure that the most sensitive place of the whole plant, the grafting site, remains 10 cm below ground level. In the spring, new shoots will grow over it.

If a climbing rose grows against a wall, then the distance to it should not be less than 50 cm. The plant is brought to the wall itself with an inclined planting at an appropriate angle. If the rose were grown right next to the wall, it would constantly suffer from a lack of moisture.

With late spring planting held in dry warm weather, it is useful to cover the soil with a layer of wet peat or any other mulch. After planting, the shoots are cut into 3-5 buds.

Caring for climbing roses

Caring for climbing roses consists in proper watering, timely top dressing, pruning, disease and pest control, as well as loosening and mulching the soil. In addition, plants must be provided with beautiful supports and covered for the winter.

In response to such care and careful care, these beauties will certainly thank you with magnificent flowering throughout almost the entire summer.

How to water. Good plant care is first and foremost proper watering. During the growing season, roses consume a lot of water. In the absence of precipitation from the moment the buds appear, as well as after pruning, the plants are watered every 10-12 days.

When watering, the soil must be soaked so that moisture penetrates deeper than the location of the roots (1-2 buckets per plant). On the 2-3rd day after watering (or rain), the soil around the plant must be loosened to a depth of 5-6 cm, which helps to retain moisture in the soil and better air access to the roots. Loosening can be replaced by mulching the soil.

The lack of moisture in the soil is reflected in the growth of roses, and the concentration of salts in the substrate also increases. But it must be remembered that too frequent watering from the hose raises the humidity of the air, and this contributes to the spread of fungal diseases.

Top dressing. To ensure proper plant care, it is imperative to fertilize the soil. Climbing roses need regular feeding more than others. Throughout the summer, they need to be fed after 10-20 days, alternating nitrogen fertilizers with complete, complex ones. Fertilizers can be both dry and liquid.

First of all, in the spring they spend liquid top dressing complete mineral fertilizer(according to instructions). After 10 - 20 days, feed the plants with organic matter (1 bucket of mullein for 5 buckets of water + 3 kg of ash) 1 liter of this mixture is diluted in a bucket of water and watered roses under the root. Such an operation will provide an abundant start of flowering with brightly colored flowers.

Such top dressing, alternating with each other, should be done until mid-summer. From mid-July they stop feeding nitrogen fertilizers and switch to phosphorus and potash, so that the bush would already begin preparing for winter.

With any top dressing, the dosage must be strictly observed! With an excess of any chemical elements, the condition of the roses may worsen. Such care will only harm the plants.

Pruning climbing roses

Pruning plays a very important role in the care of climbing roses.

The main purpose of pruning is to form a crown, obtain abundant and long flowering, and maintain plants in a healthy state.

At good care at the roses summer period long shoots grow, up to 2-3.5 m. They are covered for the winter. In the spring of the next year, only frozen and podpreshy shoots and the ends of the shoots are pruned to a strong outer bud.

In the future, climbing roses are pruned, depending on how these roses bloom, once or twice. These groups of roses differ significantly in the nature of flowering and shoot formation.

The first form flowering branches on last year's runs. They don't bloom again. In exchange for faded shoots, the so-called main (basal), these roses form from 3 to 10 recovery (replacement) shoots that will bloom for the next season. In this case, the basal shoots after flowering are cut out to the base, like in raspberries. Thus, bushes of single-flowering climbing roses should consist of only 3-5 annual and 3-5 biennial flowering shoots.

If climbing roses belong to the group of re-flowering, then flowering branches of different orders (from 2 to 5) are formed on the main shoots for three years, the flowering of such shoots weakens by the fifth year. Therefore, the main shoots are cut out after the fourth year to the base. If many new strong growth shoots form at the base of these shoots (which usually happens when the roses are well cared for), then the main shoots are cut out, as in the first group.

In repeat-flowering bushes, it is enough to have 1 to 3 annual recovery shoots and 3 to 7 flowering main shoots. Re-blooming roses are recommended to be pruned in early spring. The meaning of pruning is to leave a limited number of the strongest, youngest and longest branches on the bush. If the lashes are too long compared to the support, they must be cut.

It is important to remember that most climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, which must be preserved to their full length, only the tops with underdeveloped buds should be removed. Therefore, in the fall, such roses should not be cut; the main pruning is carried out in early spring.

Proper pruning and careful care can provide almost continuous flowering roses in your garden.

Reproduction of climbing roses

Cuttings are planted in the substrate to a depth of 1 - 1.5 cm.

Cuttings are cut from flowering or fading shoots with 2-3 internodes. The lower end is made oblique (at an angle of 45 °) directly under the kidney, and the upper end is made straight away from the kidney. The lower leaves are completely removed, and the rest are cut in half. The cutting is planted in a substrate (in a mixture of earth and sand or in clean sand) in a pot, box or immediately in the ground to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The cuttings are covered from above glass jar or film and shade from the sun. Watering is carried out without removing the film.

Cuttings in early spring also give good results. During spring pruning there are many cut shoots that can be successfully rooted. Planting and caring for cuttings is carried out according to the above method.

Shelter of climbing roses for the winter

Shelter of roses for the winter can take several days.

Be prepared for the fact that the shelter for the winter of a climbing rose can last for several days, or even for a whole week. A rose with thick, powerful shoots is unlikely to be laid on the ground in one day. This should be done at a positive temperature, in frost the stems become brittle and break easily. In no case do not try to press each shoot separately to the ground. This can only be done by tying the entire bush into a bundle or into two bundles and then spread them out in different directions.

If you feel that the stems may break when tilting the bush, stop tilting and fix the bush in this position. Let him stand like this for a day or two, and then continue until you press him to the ground.

It is necessary to cover a rose pinned to the ground with the onset of frost. Sometimes this has to be done even in the snow. In the southern regions, there is enough shelter from lutrasil. Do not forget to cover only the base of the bush with sand or earth. If your winters are cold, cover the bush with spruce branches and also cover it in several layers with covering material or roofing material.

Supports for climbing roses

The possibilities to beautifully decorate your garden with climbing roses are quite diverse: you can often see beautiful gazebos and terraces, balconies, grottoes and pavilions, arches and pergolas decorated with roses, and there is no need to talk about how these plants transform the faceless walls of buildings.

Climbing roses can brighten up a home like no other. flowering plant. One climbing rose is enough to transform a nondescript stone wall or emphasize the originality of the facade, give romance to the previously ordinary entrance to the house.

The climbing rose, with its long branches strewn with luxurious flowers. This is a real find for the landscape designer, which allows you to create blooming arches, columns, gazebos, fences. Despite the huge whips, reaching 5-6 m in length, all varieties of climbing roses are shrubs. One would think that in this case, planting and caring for them is similar to other types of roses, but everything is not so simple. Long whips impose special obligations on the owner of such luxury. Therefore, in order to achieve real aesthetics from a climbing rose, you need to know how to properly care for it.

All types of "queen of flowers" are considered rather capricious, and climbing roses are no exception, care for which must be thought through to the smallest detail. And you need to start with right choice landing time. It is best to time this event for the May warm days. In this case, you will be sure that before winter the plants will have time to get stronger and will not die during the cold weather. Climbing rose bushes with dormant buds can be planted before the buds begin to bloom on the trees, as soon as the soil warms up to 10-12 °. In the event that you bought a seedling in a greenhouse (that is, with leaves), then it is necessary to plant it only after the buds open on the trees.

You can also plant bushes in August-September, but then there is always a risk of plant death if it does not have time to properly take root before the onset of frost.

Place to land

The site for planting a climbing rose should be well lit in the morning. This is important, since it is the morning warm sun will dry the dew on the leaves and will not give a chance to fungal diseases. A completely open area is not as desirable, as midday sunlight can cause the delicate petals to “burn out” and even the entire plant to dry out. Be sure to pay attention to the fact that the chosen place is protected from cold north and northeast winds, and also not located on the corner of the building, where drafts are constantly walking - the gentle climbing rose does not like this, its development will inevitably be oppressed.

Soil for climbing roses: what to consider?

Climbing rose develops normally only on permeable soils. This means that rain (or irrigation) water must freely pass deep into the earth and not linger in the root zone. Otherwise, rotting of the root system and death of the plant from lack of nutrition are inevitable.

Therefore, if the groundwater in your area is too close to the surface of the earth, you should plant roses only on hills. However, if this is not possible, you can do it differently: dig a hole to a depth that does not reach the groundwater level, and then concrete the bottom or put a large flat stone there. This precaution will prevent groundwater“get” to the root zone and damage them, in addition, the taproots will not go deep and their bulk, as they grow, will not be located vertically, but horizontally. After that, a sufficient layer is poured onto the stone or concrete. fertile soil, where the plant is subsequently planted.

Climbing roses grow best on fertile loam - they are water and breathable enough to provide good food root system. Heavy clay and light sandy soil are not suitable for growing roses. At the same time, if such soil is on your site, you should not despair. You can improve the situation by adding clay soils sand, and sandy diluted with clay. This will adjust the permeability of the soil to air and water, but will not add fertility to the soil. To improve this indicator, you should add humus or humus to the soil. Together with organics, long-lasting products become a good supplement. phosphate fertilizers and special cultures of soil bacteria, for example, in the Baikal EM-1 preparation. Bacteria convert substances unsuitable for plant nutrition into compounds available to them.

Distance between climbing roses

When planting, it is necessary to ensure a distance between roses equal to 0.5 - 1 m in a row and 1-2 m between rows. In the event that planting is carried out near the gazebo or the wall of the house, then the distance between the plant and the blind area should be at least 0.35 - 0.5 m.

You can divide the garden into several zones using trellises lined with climbing roses on both sides. Plants are planted in a checkerboard pattern so as not to obscure each other. At the same time, the distance between them is maintained at 0.5 - 1 m, as in the usual landing pattern. Such a screen will be decorative all summer, even when the climbing rose has faded.

Before you start planting, the rose bush must be carefully inspected and all broken, crushed and rotten parts of the root system must be removed. Sections for disinfection are powdered with crushed charcoal to prevent rotting of the resulting wounds. Next, it is desirable to dip the roots into a mixture-talker, consisting of clay mixed with fresh mullein (10%) and phosphorobacterin. 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin are preliminarily dissolved in 0.5 l of water, and then this composition is poured into 9.5 l of mash. Mullein can be replaced with heteroauxin by adding 1 tablet to 10 liters of mash.

During spring planting, seedlings of any variety of climbing roses are pruned. At the same time, two developed buds are left on strong shoots, and one on weak ones. If planting takes place in the fall, then pruning is still done in the spring, after being removed from the bushes winter shelter.

Planting and caring for a young seedling

To begin with, they dig a hole, the dimensions of which should ensure free placement of the roots, and the root neck must be deepened by at least 10 cm. the temperature does not fall below -2 degrees. Also, the deepening of the root neck of own-rooted climbing roses will contribute to the formation a large number extra roots.

A mound of fertile soil is poured into the hole, around which the roots are evenly spread and covered, leaving no voids if possible. After filling the hole with earth, it is rammed with feet. Own-rooted climbing roses are watered with a mixture of phosphorobacterin and heteroauxin for better survival.

When planting in spring, seedlings cover plastic wrap, thus creating greenhouse conditions for the rose. Under the film, a humid constant microclimate is maintained, which contributes to the restoration of damaged roots and guarantees a high degree of survival. Prerequisites such a mini-greenhouse is everyday airing. To do this, it is enough to slightly open the corner of the film for a few minutes so that the plant gains access to fresh air. Gradually, such “hardening” should be increased so that after two weeks the film is completely removed.

If the roots of the plant were damaged during planting, then it is advisable to water it with "Kornevin" or "Zircon". Well contributes to the adaptation of the seedling and spraying with the drug "Epin".

In the first summer, planted seedlings do not need additional top dressing, since an undeveloped root system will have enough of those useful substances that are in the soil. Only in order to prepare roses for winter dormancy, they are fed in late August - early September with a solution of potassium salts, for example, infusion wood ash.

During the growing season, the weaving rose needs regular watering, top dressing, removal of weeds, dried flowers and weak branches.

Already after the removal of the winter shelter with the onset of spring heat, pruning is carried out, last year's plant remains, spray roses with pesticides, loosen the soil around the plant, make necessary fertilizers.

Removed plant residues are destroyed, since if roses are possibly affected by diseases last year, they will become a source of recurrence of the disease. Spraying plants with pesticides for preventive purposes is carried out as early as possible - before the buds open. Most often, a solution is used for this purpose. iron sulphate(3%), but there are others, more modern facilities. If there were no diseases observed in roses last season, this preventive measure can be skipped.

Further, after the soil is completely thawed after the winter cold, it is processed, that is, it is dug up or loosened with a pitchfork or a cultivator to a depth of 20-25 cm. land - this is how the remaining pests wintering in top layer soil. If the roses did not hurt anything, then just deep loosening is preferable, and not digging, which inevitably damages the small roots of the plant.

After tillage, the top layer of the soil is mulched with humus, compost or humus to make up for the loss of trace elements that are inevitable when growing plants.

In early May, in calm cloudy weather, roses are sprayed from leaf-eating caterpillars. At the same time, care must be taken that the poison does not get on fruit trees or shrubs - if necessary, protect them with plastic wrap.

Climbing roses need correct pruning, the purpose of which is the formation, obtaining a long and abundant flowering, crown health improvement. Pruning also helps to get a solid cover of the plant with new shoots.

Pruning is carried out after the plant has completely faded, that is, at the end of summer. First of all, diseased and damaged branches are cut out. Strong annual shoots are not removed. Old shoots are removed if new replacement shoots have appeared on the branch. That is, pruning is done in such a way that instead of old shoots new, annual ones come. Biennial shoots are not pruned - it is on them that the bulk of the flowers will be concentrated next summer.

garter of climbing roses

It is necessary to start tying the lashes of a climbing rose as early as possible so that the plant does not cause additional trouble and grows in the direction you need.

When forming a climbing rose, one should not strive for all the main branches to grow upwards. It may happen that all the flowers and leaves are "relocated" to upper part plants, and this will not add aesthetics to it. Therefore, in order to avoid such a nuisance, you need to try to direct the main branches horizontally. Then they will soon appear vertical side shoots growing up. A similar principle of forming a weaving rose will perfectly disguise a trellis or wall, as well as provide a luxurious and long flowering.

If a rose bush is planted near a pole, then for correct formation it is enough to twist the whips in a spiral.

Climbing Roses: Plant Care in Winter

In winter, any roses, including weaving ones, require shelter. At the same time, it is important to know that there should be air space between the shelter (film, roofing felt, spruce branches) and the plant. If possible, the lashes of roses are removed from the support, rotten, diseased shoots are removed, as well as all leaves. After that, the branches are wrapped with twine and fastened to the ground with wooden or metal studs. From above, the whips are covered with roofing felt, film, leaves or spruce branches. You can also cover a climbing rose right on a support, for example, if it wraps around an arch. In this case, at first, the support is tied with burlap, roofing paper or film, and then covered with spruce branches.