Curly roses (59 photos): caring for an aristocratic beauty. How to plant a climbing rose in spring

You can decorate even the most unattractive corner of the garden and at the same time add a piece of light romance to it with the help of climbing roses. These unusual, flowering climbing plants delight their owners with their flowering almost throughout the season. But for it to be flawless, climbing roses require proper fit and special care. We will talk about all the subtleties and nuances of growing climbing plants in this article.

Curly rose: planting and care, photo

Any plant in the garden or on suburban area requires care. Particular attention should be paid to some flowering crops, which include weaving roses. but with long branches. Abundant and long flowering of this beautiful plant can only be achieved with the exact implementation of all the rules when planting, careful care throughout the year, timely pruning and protection from winter frosts and pests.

Choosing a landing site

Roses are photophilous, therefore, with a lack of sunlight fresh stems will develop poorly and bloom only in the next season. However midday sun can burn the plant. The place for planting roses should be such that during the hottest hours the bushes were in the shade. The best option there will be an area that the sun heats in the morning. In the morning, the dew from the leaves will quickly evaporate, and viral diseases roses will not be afraid.

Curly roses are also picky. They do not tolerate drafts well, and therefore the corners of buildings are not suitable for planting them. Do not plant them in areas where roses have previously grown and in wetlands. It is best to choose a bed with a slope so that water does not stagnate in the soil. The roots of the plant reach about two meters in length, so if the soil moisture is constantly very high, the flowers are planted on a hill.

Climbing shrubs for decoration can be planted along the walls of the building. So that their roots are not depleted at the same time, the distance from the wall should be at least 60 cm. In any case, climbing roses should be planted near some kind of support. These can be fences, nets, pergolas, arches, walls, or specially crafted poles or cones.

When to plant climbing roses?

In areas with temperate climate shrubs are planted in open ground in late September - early October. Within two weeks, they will give the first roots and will have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In spring, the root and aboveground parts will begin to grow actively, the bush will become lush, gain strength and bloom. However, in the northern regions climbing roses it is best to plant in the spring, because the bushes planted in the fall will not have time to adapt, and may freeze out in winter.

Plants planted in the spring are delayed in their development by about half a month and require increased attention. Before planting in the ground, such seedlings are cut into three buds.

Selection and processing of seedlings

Beautiful climbing rosalia can only be obtained with healthy seedlings. Their viability and quality are indicated appearance trunk. It should only be whitish green in color, not gray or brown. Acquired seedlings in open ground are not planted immediately. They must first be prepared:

Thanks to this preparation for landing bushes will begin to grow actively, and during the flowering period, many buds are formed on them.

Soil preparation

Climbing roses love fertile, loamy, well-drained soils. Only heavy clay and sand are not suitable for their cultivation. So clayey areas diluted with sand, and sandy with clay. more suitable for chemical composition and crumbly soil will become after adding a small amount of lime to it.

When digging, soil fertility can be increased by adding to it:

• phosphate fertilizers;
• humus;
• humus;
• phosphorobacterin (special soil bacteria).

The soil is being prepared for planting climbing shrubs in advance. It is necessary to dig it up several times at the end of summer, and then loosen it again in the spring.

Landing features

The roots of a young plant should not experience a lack of space, so the holes for them should be free enough. The optimal depth is 60-65 cm. To root system developed freely, the distance between plants must be at least one meter.

When planting roses in a hole, you must observe the following recommendations:

The support to which the rose will be attached in the future should not interfere with the development of the root system. If the support is portable, then special tripods, lattices or trellises can be used. The pole and tripods can be made independently by knocking down for this wooden bars height from 2.5-3 meters. They will look gorgeous as arch supports, on both sides of which two bushes are planted. By the end of the second year, they will be completely entwined with climbing roses with delicate flowers (pictured).

Care of planted bushes

The main rules for caring for climbing roses include regular watering, timely feeding of plants, garter and pruning of shoots, sheltering bushes for the winter and protecting them from pests and diseases. Let's consider each item in more detail.

Watering and feeding

Climbing shrubs do not like excess moisture and tolerate drought without problems. It is recommended to water them once a week. a small amount water that should not be cold. Overwatering plants can lead to viral diseases and poor appearance of the bushes.

The best way to fertilize roses manure or other organic fertilizers , alternating them with mineral supplements. It should be borne in mind that young plants at first will have enough fertilized soil when planting. Therefore, it is not necessary to feed them too often. The next year after planting, care for climbing roses will consist of fertilizing with fertilizers of the following composition:

• fresh black soil;
• humus;
• phosphorus supplement;
• humus.

With such a mixture, the soil in which roses grow is “enlivened” in spring and autumn. If it is not possible to prepare the composition yourself, then you can buy finished fertilizer for roses.

Pruning shoots

All climbing roses divided into two types, each of which requires a certain amount of trimming:

1. In flowering shrubs from June to July, after planting, all shoots are shortened. Shoots 30 cm long should remain. New stems appearing during active growth to form beautiful bush cut as needed.
2. Roses with a small number of basal shoots that appear only on old branches are shortened to 30 cm in the first year. The next year after planting, all old shoots are cut out completely.

garter of climbing roses

After pruning, new branches will begin to grow, which must be directed, giving the bush the intended shape. To form more buds, individual lashes are tied up. At the same time, it is undesirable that they go only upwards, since with this arrangement, the buds are formed only at the tops.

For lush flowering bushes There are several ways to tie:

1. Shoots can be arranged "fan", leaving side branches not tied up. They will not interfere with each other, freely extending to the sides and up.
2. The main shoots are arranged horizontally, tied to a support. After a while, they will give lateral new branches that will grow upwards, forming a cloud of beautiful flowers.
3. In order for curly branches to braid an arch or a pillar, they are tied in a spiral, twisting around the support.

Whatever way the bush is formed, one should not neglect the care of climbing roses and preparing them for winter.

Protecting roses from frost

Before proceeding to the shelter, the bushes must be prepared. For this, leaves are removed from them, old loops and weak shoots are cut out. As a result 11-12 healthy and strong shoots should remain. All work is carried out in dry weather.

Shelter method climbing plant depends on the region in which it grows. In regions with a mild climate, branches can not be removed from the support by first covering them with spruce branches, and then wrapping them with foil.

In areas with severe winters, plants are completely removed from the support. First, they gather in a large bundle and bind. After the air temperature drops to -5C, they gently bend to the ground, where they are fixed with wire or pegs. The base of the bush is sprinkled with a mixture of peat and soil, and the shoots are covered with spruce branches. Everything is hidden from above dense film or agrofibre.

It is very important to remove the shelter in time in the spring. Otherwise, in humid environment and without fresh air roses can suffocate and start to hurt. On the open bushes shoots are refreshed and tied to supports. The first feeding is recommended only after the appearance of young leaves.

With errors in care and improper arrangement of bushes on the site, they may be affected by the following diseases:

When treating climbing roses, it must be remembered that all cut affected areas must be burned. Otherwise, they can infect other plants.

Proper planting and care is the key to abundant and long flowering of these royal flowers. Those who decide to grow climbing roses on their site will never regret it.

Planting and caring for climbing roses

Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and care in the open field for this marvelous flower will be discussed in stages in this article. Summer residents and gardeners know that with the help of this type of roses, you can turn even the most modest plot into a beautiful romantic corner.

Climbing rose - description of the type and planting features

Shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly entwined with its long and flexible branches. You must have loved more than once flower arches amazing beauty. Flower columns, pyramids, tapestries, well-camouflaged old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure a luxurious climbing rose can decorate with its presence. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, however, in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color scheme of this type of rose is as diverse as that of their park or ground cover relatives. Bud sizes can be from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, varieties of climbing roses bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but all of them can be divided into groups:

• Semi-climbing, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering differ, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both once flowering species, and re-flowering.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of certain varieties can exude a pronounced aroma that is heard at a distance, some are fragrant slightly audibly, subtly and gently. This culture will thrive in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for her, as well as sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability. If your site is dominated by unsuitable soil for climbing roses, then be sure to dilute it with suitable soil. Thus, sand is added to clay soil, and clay is added to sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm), in addition, humus or humus, as well as phosphorus additives, should be added.

All procedures for adapting the land should be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before. Experienced gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their counterparts have not previously grown. If it doesn’t work out otherwise, then before planting, you need to replace the top layer of the earth (by 50-70 cm). Ideally, climbing roses should be planted on a slight hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that the groundwater at the chosen place does not pass close to the top layer of soil.

If you choose to "drape" climbing rose part of the wall of the house, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, climbing roses are planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of serious cooling, the roots will have time to take root in a new place. With the advent of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer, the rose will bloom in lush color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in spring, then by this moment it should warm up to at least +10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April / the first weeks of May are the most optimal dates for spring planting.

Planting a climbing rose in the ground in spring

I will make a reservation right away that the rules for planting seedlings in spring are not much different from autumn ones. All the stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn. You should be prepared for the fact that roses planted in the spring will be a little behind in development, will require you to pay more attention to your person. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.

So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots, too, up to 30 cm. Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm. If you plant several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root neck is also deepened by 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost during the cold season. The roots are gently straightened, covered with soil, lightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are pointing down and not bent up!

Planting a climbing rose in the spring involves introducing nutritious soil into the hole. Approximately 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will please your rose. After planting, the soil is slightly trampled down and watered abundantly. It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulate growth, for example, Phosphobacterin, to the water for this first watering. Phytohormone "Heteroauxin" is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover polyethylene film newly planted bushes - this technique contributes to a better adaptation of plants in a new place. To do it or not to do it is up to you if weather your region will push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and mulch the ground around the bushes leaf humus, peat, crushed tree bark or straw.

How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?

Today in flower shops you can buy climbing rose seedlings with an open or closed root system. Representatives with open roots should be immediately planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such an escape must be mature (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not survive the winter. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Varieties of climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you will not be able to immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they have light green color, then it is better to refrain from buying. The elongation of the shoots and their light shade signal improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or in low light. Such a rose will be weak, painful, unlikely to survive the winter. Vaccination sites should also be addressed close attention, a properly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the “junction”, which promotes fusion. If the vaccination site is peeling and looks unhealthy, then you will only have problems with such a rose.

Planting a climbing rose from the store in spring, steps:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with an earthen clod, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots, put them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, we remove them. If there is wild growth, we also remove it, too long shoots can be pinched. Do not forget to powder the cut points with powdered charcoal or activated charcoal.
2. The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, so the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and the root system carefully examined. You can first add the Kornevin stimulator to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, gently straighten the roots if possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. About what the pit should be and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it) has already been described a little higher. Water the rose well.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more earth (spud). When refilling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun shines too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover a young bush paper bag or cloth light shades- so it is guaranteed not to burn. Such protective covering can be left for 5-7 days.

Climbing roses - care and cultivation

In heat and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully rake the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn also open after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-solar day, so that subsequently the plant does not experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains buried in the soil by about 10 cm.

During the growing season, the climbing rose requires generous watering. After the appearance of the buds, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. At the same time, water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per bush will be enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. Both waterlogging and lack of moisture are equally harmful for roses, so follow the golden mean in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilizer is an important step in caring for a climbing rose, because this species is quite picky about top dressing. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should alternate with complex fertilizers, they are recommended to be applied every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example, Agricola-Rosa (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organics - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower". You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg wood ash diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then pour the plant under the root with the resulting composition. From about the second week of July, you can start slowly making phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the upcoming winter. Carefully read the dosage of drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemistry, you can simply ruin it.

Climbing rose care in the first year

How does it differ from the standard requirements? From competent care in the first year of a plant's life depends on its further development and flowering splendor. When new shoots appear, the soil from the bushes is removed (the one that was used for hilling). If they stand sunny days, then at first, light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not interfere. After 10-12 days after the removal of the hilling soil, you can proceed to the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened above the second or third sheet. A little later, with the lateral branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes “looking” inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on outside, leave for further correct formation shrub.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, no matter how strange it may sound. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the advent of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after the manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is a climbing rose pruned in autumn for the winter? If other types of roses can simply be spud, then the climbing one must be covered completely - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the thermal insulation methods, in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you will have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bunch, rewind with twine and gently tilt to the ground. With the help of metal staples (we cut the wire into fragments and bend), the branches are fixed on the ground, and then covered with appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering sheet. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but is securely wrapped with protective material right on it. The base of the bush is spudded in the manner described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care measure should be given Special attention. Pruning helps to properly form the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long flowering, has a positive effect on health and vitality climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

Starting from the second year of the plant's life, pruning is done at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They bloom around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at which time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (we choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, subsequently they will be successfully replaced by young basal processes. If these processes are not present, then about 40 cm from the base should be measured from the old branches, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of the replacement basal branches.

The remaining (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where a new powerful growth began to form, subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short flower stalks are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (also measured from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to cut a climbing rose in spring? You should pick up a pruner when buds begin to swell on the branches from below (the last weeks of April / early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then during night frosts the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than the due date. If you miss the pruning time, then the plant will throw all its forces into the formation of new branches and foliage, and flowering will be poor.

Pruning climbing roses in spring has one important point- removal, namely, cutting off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also at this time, all diseased, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when buds swell on the “living” branches.

Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unfortunate place where the plant feels uncomfortable and sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplantation. Most the best time for this operation - autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, as the rose needs time to adapt to a new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances so require, transplanting a rose in a climbing spring to another place is also possible. As soon as the earth thaws after winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug (moving in a circular fashion), about 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant. Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, let better pit will be deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain safe and sound.

When transplanting, the same rules are followed as with standard planting - the roots straighten out and go down, the free space in the pit is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly tamped and generously watered.

After 3-4 days, you should add earth (it will settle slightly), spud your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with transplanting roses - their belonging to the groups of climbers and ramblers. I will allow myself a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Varieties of climbing climber roses are called climbers, they form rough and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. Climber shoots are not very flexible; when transplanting, they must be cut to half the entire length!

Ramblers are precisely climbing roses with flexible and soft whip shoots, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rambler roses are characterized active growth, when transplanted, they cut off all the shoots that are more than two years old. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must pinch the tops - this technique speeds up the lignification of the branches.

How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, cuttings, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is cuttings. seed propagation only possible if the seed is purchased from the appropriate shop. As you know, independently harvested seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or garden do not carry varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Growing climbing roses from seed

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of growing the plant. After we remove the seeds from the solution, spread them on thin layer cotton wool, again, impregnated with hydrogen peroxide, on top we cover with a similar cotton layer, which is also impregnated with peroxide.

The resulting "sandwich" is placed in plastic bag and hide in the refrigerator, in the compartment for greens and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also impregnated with hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be carefully moved into peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mix. Seedling cassettes are also suitable.

Young shoots should be watered as the soil dries. In order for plants to develop properly, they need to provide daily lighting for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the advent of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

This is the most easy way reproduction, almost always giving a 100% positive result. For cutting cuttings, already faded or still flowering branches are suitable for you, which are taken from the rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July.

The cut fragment should have at least two internodes, the location of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the kidney. The upper cut (smooth) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Next, all the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper ones are cut in half. A cutting is placed in a previously prepared container with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, deepened by about 1-2 cm, covered from above glass jar and put in a well-lit area.

Now you will need to periodically water the stalk (without removing the banks) and make sure that it does not fall into direct sunlight.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we select the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make a small groove bed about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now we carefully bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal brackets. After we fill the shoot with soil, but leave the top looking out. Then, as usual, we take care of the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried shoot. After a year, when spring comes, the cuttings can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

Propagation of roses by grafting (budding) on ​​wild rose

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a wild rose bush - this technique is quite often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, the wild rose should be generously watered.

Right on the root neck of the shrub, an incision is made in the bark in the form of the letter “T”, after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. In this kind of "pocket" is placed a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The peephole must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we firmly press the eye to the neck of the rootstock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rosehip bush is spudded, and so that the soil rises 5 cm above the grafting site (this is the minimum). After two or three weeks, the film can be slightly loosened, and with the advent of a new spring, it is removed for good.

Climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Empirically, 7 factors were found out that affect the absence of flowers in climbing roses.

Climbing rose - diseases and pests

On the initial stage aphids can be removed from branches by hand with gardening gloves on, but once they feel like a full owner, you will need help chemicals. Insecticides "Sharpei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you deal with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called folk methods fight, then grate laundry soap(1 tablespoon) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate rose bushes with this solution for a week, after which remove all affected fragments - it should help.

The spider mite loves heat and drought, a silvery coating on the foliage is a sign of the presence uninvited guest. Old methods of struggle with the help of thick tobacco infusion or wormwood decoction give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the the best means protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes it's enough double processing roses with this preparation so that the tick loses its position. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved to be excellent in this matter.

According to reviews experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works great against the rose sawfly. Preparations "Aktellik" and "Phosbecid" (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show a good result, extending not only to the sawfly, but also to other "lovers" of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you about the spring and autumn spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray rot, powdery mildew, koniotirium (bark burn).

There is no cure for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but taking prevention seriously minimizes the risk of disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of three percent blue vitriol(before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same blue vitriol are the most commonly recommended preventive measures.

Conyothyrium infestation can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the diseased branches (with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the moment the kidneys awaken, the plant can be treated with 3% iron sulphate, the ground around the bush must also be irrigated. The same Bordeaux liquid or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also participate in the case, while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - the removal of affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution iron sulphate(3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux mixture (3%). Such sprays are often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is to make your favorite flowers delight your eyes with lush buds for as long as possible and endure wintering. It is simply unrealistic to mention all winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them, briefly describe their main qualities.

Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully justifies its name, its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and abundantly. Rebloom - distinguishing feature of this rose, it grows quite quickly and in the shortest possible time can braid the arch or wall of the building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weakly expressed.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

Climbing rose "Lavinia"

Boasts rich cupped flowers pink shade, undemanding to care, re-flowering, aroma with light notes of nutmeg. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most diseases of roses, blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

Variety "Polka"

It is characterized by undulating flowering, about five waves per summer. Terry buds, apricot hue, gradually turning into cream. Very fond of sunlit places, has good disease resistance, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns, the aroma is weak.

Photo of a climbing rose variety "Polka":

Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious terry rose with large (12 cm in diameter) deep red flowers. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms in partial shade without problems. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and keep fresh for a long time.

Variety "Don Juan", photo:

Variety "Flamentants"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive climbing representatives of red. Her buds are large (8 cm in diameter), terry, multi-petal. It has increased frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of the rose is very gentle, but not very pronounced.

Photo of Flamentanz roses:

Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white-pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows up to 2.5-3 m in height. The rose is re-blooming, disease resistance is average, black spot and ashtray should be avoided.

Variety "Handel", photo:

Variety "Bobby James"

Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. It can reach 8 m in height, disease resistant, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (about 4.5 cm in diameter), outwardly reminiscent of cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma, during flowering the branches are simply covered with buds, so that foliage is almost invisible behind them. The buds themselves have the peculiarity of slowly opening for about 10-12 days. Spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo rose variety "Bobby James":

Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"

A re-blooming variety that blooms slowly, to the delight of gardeners. Large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will decorate the bush until the arrival of the first frost. Shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, the foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.

Variety "Golden Perfume", photo:

Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy re-blooming climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry hue or rich dark pink. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. Blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the Parade variety, photo:

Climbing rose "Schwanensee"

Another variety with increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink core. Schwanensee blooms until frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate, refined aroma. The variety is hardy, re-blooming, resistant to precipitation. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwanensee", photo:

Sort "Casino"

This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when open. A multi-petalled variety, the diameter of a double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.

Climbing rose variety "Casino", photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will require you to spend time and effort, but, you see, its luxurious beauty fully justifies such “sacrifices”. Follow all the above recommendations, carefully consider the choice of residence for the rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with powerful roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.

Provide her reliable support, the types of which I will tell you in the next article.

Let a climbing rose be sure to settle in your area. Planting and care in the open field, the nuances of propagation and replanting, a rough idea of ​​​​individual varieties - you now know all this and can put my advice into practice.

The following videos will successfully complement the article:

I decided to replenish my rose garden and purchased several bushes of weaving roses, but I don’t know how to grow them. Tell me, where is it better to plant weaving roses and how to properly care for them in order to grow beautiful lush bushes?

Weaving roses are indispensable when creating vertical gardening. Arches and gazebos decorated with this variety of roses look gorgeous.

But in order for a weaving rose to decorate the site with its appearance, you need to know the features of its planting and properly care for it. After all, mistakes made in care will not only spoil the appearance of the shrub, but can also lead to its death. So, if a rose seedling has already been purchased, first of all, the question arises of where to plant it and how to take care of the weaving rose in the future.

Conditions for planting weaving roses: time and place of landing

In order for young bushes to have time to settle down in a new place and get stronger before the onset of the first frost, the most optimum time for planting will be the end of spring.

When choosing a place for a weaving rose, you must be guided by two rules:

• this variety does not like drafts;
• such a rose loves the sun, but is afraid of direct sunlight.

You can not plant a plant on the corner of the house, where drafts are a fairly common occurrence.

The place for planting a rose should be in the shade for at least two to three hours a day, otherwise the plant will get burned and the petals will burn out. And in a too shady part of the site, the bush will grow slowly and bloom poorly.

In the case of planting several bushes between them, you need to make an indent of 1 m, it is better to increase the distance between the rows to 2 meters. Also, do not plant very close to the wall, you need to retreat to a distance of up to 50 cm.

Soil preparation before planting roses

Experienced flower growers advise preparing the soil a few weeks before planting roses. To do this, dig the place chosen on the site, fertilize the soil with peat, lime and humus. Dig up landing pit 50cm deep and 50cm wide.

Before planting a seedling, it is necessary to cut the roots and shoots with secateurs, leaving a maximum of 30 cm, and treat the cut points with garden pitch.

Mix the earth from the pit with manure (preferably mullein) and cover it with a young rose bush.

Climbing rose basics

Climbing rose care includes the following:

1. Watering. It is enough to water the rose once a week, the shrub tolerates dry summers very well, but is sensitive to an excess of moisture.
2. top dressing. Roses are fertilized with manure, organic and mineral fertilizers.
3. Timely treatment of diseases. If the leaves are covered with white spots (powdery mildew), the bush should be treated twice (with a break) with Bordeaux mixture. When appearing on the run brown spots(bark cancer) they urgently need to be cut out, capturing part of a healthy shoot, and burned.
4. Pruning. With the advent of spring, cut dry and weak branches on the bush, and in the summer - cut flowers that have faded.
5. Shelter for the winter. They begin to do it only when the temperature drops to 5 degrees below zero. To do this, tie the branches, remove the shoots from the support and put on the leaves, and cover with foil on top.

With proper care for a climbing rose lush bloom it will be possible to admire more than one year.

Video on how to properly plant and care for a climbing rose

Climbing roses include wild rose species, as well as several varieties of garden roses, branching with fairly long stems. They are directly related to the rosehip genus. And these plants are very popular in vertical gardening as various structures, buildings and walls, and gazebos. Such flowers are able to decorate both a large structure and a very small one. These plants are widely used to create various designs in the garden, namely, columns, arbors, pyramids, garlands, as well as arches. And they are wonderfully combined with other plants, in this regard, their popularity is no less than that of a room or spray rose.

Planting climbing roses in open ground

So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots, too, up to 30 cm. Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm. If you plant several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root neck is also deepened by 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost during the cold season. The roots are gently straightened, covered with soil, lightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are pointing down and not bent up!

Planting a climbing rose in the spring involves introducing nutritious soil into the hole. Approximately 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will please your rose. After planting, the soil is slightly trampled down and watered abundantly. It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulate growth, for example, Phosphobacterin, to the water for this first watering. Phytohormone "Heteroauxin" is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic wrap - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. It is up to you to do this or not to do it, if the weather conditions of your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and mulch the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped tree bark or straw.

When to plant climbing roses

If planting is planned in the spring (this is especially true for own-rooted roses), then the best time for this event is from mid-April to the third decade of May, when the soil warms up to + 10-12C. Before planting, the shoots of seedlings are cut to 20-30 cm, while leaving 3-4 strong shoots on each bush. After planting, the soil under the bushes is watered, spud and covered with a film. It needs to be opened every day to air the seedlings, gradually increasing the intervals. This is how young roses harden. Once the threat of frost has ended, the shelter can be removed.

Also, when choosing a planting date, it is worth considering the characteristics of the variety of the planted plant. Some varieties, despite early landing, bloom later.

How to care for a climbing rose

Proper cultivation is garden culture guarantees four rules:

• Regular watering, which should not be excessive.
• Seasonal top dressing - without them, the plant will wither.
• Shrubs should be protected from diseases and pest attacks.
• Another one necessary procedure- loosening the soil.

Take care of these beauties, and throughout the summer you will be delighted with lush and large buds.

What should be competent watering - one of the main conditions proper care for climbing roses in the garden? In the absence of precipitation, flowers should be watered every 10-12 days. Moisture must penetrate deep into the ground, nourishing the roots. On the second or third day after abundant watering, you need to carefully cultivate the soil. A good alternative to the loosening procedure is mulching.

Support for climbing roses

Arch.

Arches are built at the entrance to the site, to the gazebo, house or some area of ​​the park. A do-it-yourself rose arch is usually made of wood or metal. The tree always looks great among flowers, it is used to support massive stems, and metal constructions often twined with thin tender shoots. wooden arches, coated with varnish or paint, can last more than 10 years, and metal ones for at least 15 years.

Trellis.

The trellis is placed against the wall or in the middle of the garden, separating different zones. It can be simply a rectangular structure, consisting of a strong frame, usually wooden, and a lattice located (fixed) inside this frame. Summer residents usually use metal wire or wooden planks for grating, which look great among the greenery of a rose if they are painted with white paint. Less commonly used plastic purchased grills. Tapestries arrange in the form of a fan or give them a bizarre shape, which he acquires rose bush, hiding a trellis underneath.

Pillar.

A pillar as a support for roses can be of any height, located in the middle of a flower garden, thus placing it in two planes, or it can stand near a bench or gazebo, delighting the eyes of vacationing owners and arousing the envy of their guests. In parks, they make an excellent composition, placing poles at the same distance from each other along an alley or path, connecting them with a beautifully sagging rope or chain. The roses that wind around the pillars hang picturesquely from these chains in blooming garlands.

When to prune climbing roses

Autumn pruning of climbing roses can be started only when the air temperature at night stays stable at about minus three degrees - for the middle lane this time coincides with the end of October. If pruned earlier, then warm weather will promote the development of buds, which will lead to the death of shoots in winter. It is impossible to prune even in August, since the shoots that appear will not have time to become woody before frost and will die. The frozen branch will then thaw and become a favorable environment for the reproduction of fungi.

At the end of July, stop fertilizing climbing roses with nitrogen compounds;

Increase the application of potash and phosphorus fertilizers - the first will help strengthen the root system of the plant and more rapid maturation existing shoots, and phosphorus will feed future buds;

After the last top dressing, you need to stop removing flowers - this measure will help prevent the growth of new buds.

Growing climbing roses from seeds

To grow roses from seeds, you must meet a number of requirements. First of all, the collected grains should be put in a sieve and lowered for twenty minutes into a solution of hydrogen peroxide. This is necessary so that mold does not form on them during storage. You can treat gauze with a solution of peroxide, on which you can then lay out the seeds, covering them from above with a cloth soaked in the same agent. After that, the material prepared for storage should be transferred to a plastic bag and placed in the vegetable section of the refrigerator.

Planting roses with seeds is a very laborious process. Regularly, every ten to fifteen days, you need to check the condition of the grains. At the first sign of mold, they should be soaked again in hydrogen peroxide. After that, the seeds must be wrapped in a new cotton or gauze swab, placed in a clean bag and put in the refrigerator. One and a half to two months after laying, as a rule, the first shoots appear.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

It is more difficult to propagate a climbing rose with cuttings, but you can get more seedlings. Doing so better in summer, in mid-June, when the cuttings are quite soft. The amount of work and costs will depend on how many seedlings are needed.

For example, to get 10 climbing rose seedlings, you will need:

• 10 plastic cups 0.5 l;
• 10 plastic containers volume 1 l;
• o.5 kg of soil and river sand.

The cups are filled with a mixture of sand and soil, and on top they are covered with liter containers turned upside down to create the effect of a "greenhouse".

Cuttings do not need to be cut large, two internodes are enough. Next, the stalk should be stripped of leaves, leaving only a couple at the top and placed in nutrient soil (in a glass or in a greenhouse) and watered. When propagating climbing roses with cuttings, it is important to remember that the soil (even in a greenhouse, even in cups) should always be slightly moist.

Usually in mid-September, the cuttings form good roots and can be planted either in a permanent place or in a bed with loose and nutritious soil to grow another season, and then transplant.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

Almost all types of roses can be propagated in this way, and especially ground cover and climbing roses. In early spring an annual stem is bent from the bush. In that part of it that will be in the ground, a small incision is made in the bark directly at the eye (this stimulates root formation). Then the stem is bent to the ground, placed in a groove 10 cm deep, pinned, covered with fertile soil and watered well. The upper part of the stem with two or three buds should be above the ground in an upright position.

To stimulate tillering, the stem is pinched during the growth process. next spring the cuttings can already be separated from the mother bush and transplanted for growing into a special school or to a permanent place in the garden.

Grafting climbing roses

Roses are grafted onto wild roses for only one purpose: to obtain and sell standard winter-hardy rose seedlings as quickly as possible (in 1-2 years) and cheaper. And own-rooted roses can be brought to such a standard only in 2-3 years, which is less profitable for producers due to the increase in the cost of seedlings due to an increase in their cost. In addition, own-rooted roses are obtained by cutting off a stalk with three buds, and only one bud is used to graft the wild rose, which is much more profitable for producers. Grafted climbing roses, planted in such a way that the grafting site is above the soil surface, are short-lived compared to own-rooted roses, since wild rose is a deciduous plant, and cultivated roses are evergreen. During the growing season of grafted roses, such a discrepancy between scion and rootstock leads to a gradual depletion of the entire plant.

Pests and diseases of climbing roses

Diseases of climbing roses - powdery mildew. A mealy, graying coating appears on the chalked leaves and stems. Gradually, it compacts and black fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the fungus are formed there. The leaves turn brown and dry prematurely, the young shoots are deformed, the buds often do not open and dry out. The causative agent of the disease overwinters in the affected shoots, buds. In the spring, infection of young leaves and shoots occurs. The development of the disease is facilitated by high air humidity (80 - 95%), sharp temperature fluctuations, drying out or waterlogging of the soil, and excess nitrogen fertilizers.

Diseases of climbing roses - black spot. On the upper side of the leaves, many rounded purple-brown or almost black spots with a yellow halo, 5-15 mm in size, form. The same spots can be on young annual shoots. The spots merge, and, covering almost the entire leaf, cause premature abscission.

Diseases of climbing roses - gray rot. With this disease, rotting and death of stems, young shoots, buds, leaves occurs. The buds dry up. In damp, cool or moderately warm weather, diseased parts of plants are covered with gray spores. The infection overwinters in plant remains and on affected parts of plants.

Climbing rose pests - thrips. This is very small insects pale yellow or brown in color. Females lay their eggs in plant tissues, the eggs hatch into larvae, two stages of which feed on the juice of young leaves and petals. Each female can lay up to 300 eggs.

Pests of climbing roses - spider mite. Having settled on the underside of the leaves, mites damage them by sucking out the juice and braiding them with cobwebs. Leaves take on a silvery hue. During the summer, up to 12 generations are formed.

Pests of climbing roses - rose sawfly. Shiny black insect, 10 - 15 mm long, with two pairs of transparent membranous wings Larvae - pale green caterpillars with a red head. In spring, the rose sawfly lays its eggs under the skin at the end of the shoot or in the axils of the leaves.

Rose bushes are able to charm anyone with their beauty, they look so magical. And it's not just about garden bushes. Weaving roses deserve special attention. They are able to decorate any place, turn an old gazebo into a small corner of paradise. And the flower garden will sparkle bright colors if you know how to plant climbing roses around the perimeter of a green corner in the garden. The main thing is to figure out how to care for a climbing rose and find out what microclimate and description of cultivation she prefers.

planting

Let's say you decide to diversify your backyard with the recognized queen of garden flowers. In this case, planting a climbing rose is the first thing you need to familiarize yourself with. Knowing how to properly plant a weaving plant will make it easier for you to understand the features of constant care for it. Remember: it is important to prepare the soil for planting plants. Immediately before deepening the seedling into the ground, add the necessary nutrient compounds to the ground, for example, phosphate fertilizers, humus, humus, and also phosphorobacterin.

When planting a flower, keep in mind that the root system requires a lot of space, so the holes must be voluminous. Place the seedling in the recess, be sure to fill the voids between the root branches. Cover the plant with earth, then pour a bucket of warm water under the young bush. Final stage- pour a little earth on top and carefully tamp the space around the climbing rose. When the planting of the purchased climbing rose in the spring in the ground is completed, it's time to provide competent care for the young shrub.

Caring for climbing roses

Care for yellow or red varieties in the garden, especially when it comes to weaving varieties, will be carried out correctly if the crown is regularly formed. AT spring period flower growers, as a rule, remove frozen shoots from the bush. Further, the features of this procedure will depend on the variety itself.

If we are talking about a shrub that can bloom only once a season, at the end of its flowering, the basal shoots will need to be cut out completely. Let's say you breed weaving varieties that bloom several times a year. In this case, the main shoots will need to be completely removed no earlier than 4 years after planting the seedling.

Plant propagation

Climbing rose is not only planting and care. In order to achieve abundant and long flowering and at the same time to get a few additional bushes of weaving roses over time, it is necessary to master the procedure for plant propagation. You can breed a climbing yellow or other color rose in your own backyard with the help of seeds, cuttings, this method is feasible, but you will have to buy seed in the store. The thing is that it does not make sense to plant grains collected from a bush growing on your personal plot, since varietal characteristics will not be traced in them.

Features of preparation for winter

Knowing how to plant a climbing rose and take care of it in the summer is not enough. It is especially important to be able to prepare the plant for the cold, to understand how to cover roses for the winter. The technology of the process itself will be completely different from how a garden rose is usually prepared for wintering. If the bush is enough to simply dig in the ground, then here it is necessary to take care of the entire plant. A planted flower should not be watered with the onset of autumn. It is advisable to stop feeding the rose.

In the middle - the end of autumn, the bush will need to be bent to the ground. Do this gradually, tying the shrub with some kind of rope (remember that you need to bend the branches in one “bundle”, and not one by one).

Do not be surprised if the procedure takes a couple of days: the shrub will gradually get used to the angle of inclination. You can open the plant after hibernation in the spring.