Daffodils - planting and care in the open field during and after flowering. There may be several possible reasons

With the advent of spring, one of the very first to bloom on summer cottages daffodils. Very gentle, airy, they attract the eye and cheer up. This flower is native to the Mediterranean. Now actively cultivated in different climatic zones about 60 types of daffodils. Due to the difference in their forms and timing of flowering, they make amazing compositions that will bloom for up to 30 days.

Daffodils - planting and care

Daffodils are not demanding to care for. They can grow well in one area of ​​the garden for many years, without requiring the bulbs to be dug up for the winter.

If you are just planning to plant these flowers on your site, pay attention to some of the subtleties of how to grow daffodils.

First of all, you need to choose these colors appropriate place: Daffodils grow well both in sunny areas and in partial shade. But heavily shaded areas are not suitable for them - the inflorescences will be pale and very small. You also need to avoid places blown from all sides by winds - delicate flowers can't stand strong winds.

The second thing to pay attention to is the quality of the soil. And the most important thing here is drainage. Since in nature daffodils grow on stony soil, then on garden plots they need to create similar conditions. Small stones, sand, poured into the bottom of the hole in which you are going to plant the bulbs, are perfect as drainage.

Also important point is the nutrient content of the soil. It is necessary to make fertilizer, compost, ash into it. The only thing to avoid is the introduction of fresh manure under the daffodils, since there is a high probability of contamination of the soil with onion hoverfly - most dangerous enemy all bulbs.

Daffodils should be planted shortly before frost - usually this is the end of September. It takes about three weeks for the bulbs to take root, but not to sprout - they are not needed at all in winter.

But if you want to follow Dutch technology, then plant the bulbs immediately after sorting so that they do not dry out - this period falls at the end of summer.

Before planting, for 2-3 weeks, you need to prepare the soil: dig it up to a full bayonet with the introduction of good humus.

Flowers are planted either in a circle (the distance between the bulbs is 10 cm) - so in the spring you will get an elegant flower bed, or in a row (the distance is 20 cm between the flowers) - this method is used to propagate daffodils. When planting in a row, you will get more large children.

The depth of the hole should be equal to three diameters of the onion, usually about 20 cm. Sand must be poured into the bottom with a layer of about 5 cm. The onion is slightly pressed into the ground, powdered with ash and covered with compost or earth. Then the place of the future flower garden is well shed.

Care consists in abundant watering, removing weeds and loosening the soil. Watering should be carried out in the morning and evening during budding, flowering, and then for another two weeks. After that, watering is stopped.

When the daffodils begin to fade, it is necessary to remove the drying heads. But the leaves should not be touched: they should turn yellow and dry on their own. This will be the pledge good flowering next year.

In order for the flower heads to be large, it is necessary to fertilize the soil several times. First feed the daffodils in early spring as soon as the first leaves appear. You can use any complex fertilizer for flowers. During the budding period, phosphoric and potash fertilizers. And during flowering carry out the third top dressing complex fertilizers. The only taboo is fresh manure.

Reproduction and storage of daffodils

Periodically planting daffodils need to be thinned out - dig out bulbs and free them from children. Small flowers will grow in heavily thickened flower beds.

You can dig up the bulbs when the leaves turn yellow and wither. Usually it is June. It is important here not to miss this time, otherwise the bulbs will give new roots, and you will damage them when sorting.

Dig up plants in dry weather. Bulbs are examined, diseased, soft and damaged are destroyed. You can immediately put the onions to dry, or you can wash and hold in a solution of potassium permanganate and then send them to dry.

Tubers should dry only in the shade, under a canopy. Direct exposure to sunlight will burn them.

Sort the dug out bulbs. Large ones - about 5 cm in diameter - will be able to bloom already next spring. Smaller ones - 3 cm - will give a flower only after a year, and very small ones - after 2 years. Especially large bulbs weighing about 30 grams can be grown at home in a pot on the windowsill.

Store daffodils at a temperature of about 12 C. They are placed in carton boxes or wooden boxes in one layer. Tubers are periodically inspected, removing diseased and rotten ones.

That's all the subtleties of growing daffodils. This flower is very unpretentious, and with a minimum of time and effort, it will be one of the first to delight you with its flowering in early spring.

Daffodils need care after flowering. Caring for daffodils after flowering is a guarantee that this wonderful sunny flower next season will give good buds - because right now he is preparing for flowering next year.

Daffodils are perennial bulbous plants. They bloom in spring, so by this time they are planted on lawns, borders, flower beds. These plants are quite unpretentious in their care, but at the same time they are attractive, especially during flowering. Nothing lasts forever - sooner or later daffodils will fade anyway. In this case, you need to know as right care for flowers like daffodils after flowering.

Naturally, a faded plant with yellowed leaves does not look attractive at all, but you don’t need to cut these leaves right away. First, these leaves must transfer all the accumulated nutrients to the bulb of the plant. This process takes about one and a half months. Dried flowers can be pruned.

It is worth noting that by transferring nutrients to the bulb, the leaves themselves gradually die off, that is, this happens. naturally. During the death, the leaves, of course, will begin to fall. In this case, many make a mistake - they begin to tie up these leaves. Tying leads to the fact that already a smaller part of the plant surface is illuminated by the sun, and the tissues are damaged. As a result, much less nutrients than needed. Faded daffodils need to be watered for another 10-15 days, and then gradually reduce watering.

The above applies to plants that remain in place for the winter. If a transplant is planned, then you need to dig out the bulb when the leaves begin to turn yellow and the entire bush falls apart. So the bulb will be better visible, that is, the likelihood of damage to it is reduced.

After flowering, you need to feed the plants. On the square meter use 50-60 g of fertilizers - a third of potash and 2 thirds of phosphorus. Top dressing should be done simultaneously with watering, and then loosen the ground.

Although daffodils are unpretentious and resistant to winters, but a harsh winter with little snow or winter thaw may be harmful to the plant. To avoid this, you need to cover the plants, that is, mulch them. They do this when a negative temperature is established and the ground freezes, in the spring, when frost is no longer expected, the mulch must be removed.

It is worth noting that in one place daffodils grow well and usually bloom for 4-5 years, then the quality of flowering begins to decline.

Plant bulbs after digging must be dried, remove old roots and earth. Storage requires a dry and ventilated area.

Growing daffodils in the garden: how to grow daffodils. Narcissus bulbs. Planting daffodils - when to plant daffodils: Planting daffodils in autumn and spring. Caring for daffodils - how to care for daffodils in the garden: when to transplant daffodils, flowering and reproduction of daffodils. Pests and diseases of daffodils. Caring for daffodils after flowering. When to dig up daffodil bulbs. Storage of daffodil bulbs.

Whatever variety the daffodil belongs to, requirements for planting and care of daffodils remain unchanged.

Narcissus - typical perennial. In one place without a transplant, it can grow 5-6 years. Plants should be transplanted when the bulbs, growing, begin to crowd each other and flowering weakens.

Bulbs of daffodils perennial, consist of bottom, concentric accumulating scales, growing year after year, and dry brownish outer covering scales. Bulbs are single- and multi-topped, the latter consist of several bulbs with a common bottom and covering scales, several stems with flowers can grow from them. A multi-top bulb can be divided by cutting along the bottom, sprinkling slices with ash and keeping for several days before planting.

The best time to purchase planting material is 3 months after flowering. For daffodils grown in middle lane, is the middle of August and later. For bulbs grown in the south of Russia, or imported, earlier dates are possible.

Buying bulbs first pay attention to their density(soft or cracked are not suitable), cleanliness and integrity of the bottom, smoothness and density of the tops (necks).

It is not recommended to purchase bulbs:
- in the spring;
- dug up with stems, flowers, roots during or immediately after flowering;
- those who already have a sprout;
- multi-top, if one large bulb is surrounded by numerous small ones;
- after the onset of stable cold weather and freezing of the soil.

Daffodil bulbs are planted in September. For planting, choose a lighted, wind-protected place. The daffodil also feels great in light partial shade. In such conditions, he has a high peduncle, large and bright flowers. It blooms longer.

Narcissus can grow in almost any soil.- from sandy to clay. But at the same time, it must be borne in mind that the arable layer must be at least 30 cm, it is to this depth that the roots of the narcissus extend. And don't forget to drain. With all its love for moisture, the narcissus cannot stand stagnant water; its bulbs can rot.

In addition, they cannot be planted where daffodils were grown the day before (you can return to their original place in 5-6 years), lilies, tulips, onions and other bulbous crops, as well as phloxes, perennial asters and chrysanthemums. Good Predecessors- cereals, legumes, spices, cucumbers, tomatoes, peonies.

Sand is added to heavy clay soils (20-30 kg per 1 sq. M), and humus is added to sandy soils (up to 20 kg per 1 sq. M).

When planting daffodils in any case do not add fresh manure to the soil. It is applied a year before planting at the rate of 15 kg per 1 sq. m. But this is not enough for daffodils. In June, when preparing the soil for daffodils, dig it up and add 50 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium salt to each square meter. It would be nice to add humus.

It is best to plant daffodils immediately after digging - in mid-August. Bulbs of daffodils do not store well. Unprotected by dense leathery scales, like a tulip, they evaporate a lot of moisture during storage. Before planting, the bulbs should be held for 20-30 minutes in a solution of foundationazole (0.2%) and rogor (0.3%). The bulb is planted to a depth equal to three of its heights, counting from the bottom. If the weather is hot, dry, then the daffodils should be watered. In autumn, before frosts, it is advisable to cover new plantings with a layer of peat or leaves. In the future, plants will not need shelters, with the exception of tacet daffodils.

During the season, daffodils are fed 4 times. The first three top dressings - during germination, budding and flowering - are the same. Every time they make nitrophoska. The first time - 100 g per 1 sq. m, and in the next two times - 60-70 g per 1 sq. m. The fourth dressing is carried out after flowering and only phosphorus (2 parts) and potash (1 part) fertilizers are applied at the rate of 50-60 g per 1 sq. m. All top dressing is combined with watering, then the earth is loosened or mulched.

Narcissus - a moisture-loving plant, it must be watered to the full depth of the roots (up to 2 buckets per 1 sq. M). Daffodils are dug up as soon as the tips of the leaves turn yellow and the bush begins to disintegrate. Do not wait for the complete death of the leaves. In this case, the place where the bulbs are located will not be visible, and when digging, they can be accidentally damaged.

If the daffodils remain for the next year, it is necessary, in June, after waiting for the complete death of the leaves, rake them and carefully loosen the landing site.

Some flower growers advise to transfer the digging of daffodils to more early term, before the start of the departure of the narcissus fly, in order to avoid damage to the bulbs.

The dug out daffodils are immediately removed into the shade and carefully freed from the remnants of the earth, carrying out the first culling of diseased and damaged bulbs. Then washed clean water and pickle during 30 min in one of the phosphorus-containing solutions or 0.2-0.3% solution of foundationazole.

Storage- a very important period in the life of daffodil bulbs. Tulips and hyacinths, which need a higher temperature, do not have company. Daffodils prefer coolness: until mid-August, they are quite satisfied with the 17-degree mark on the thermometer, and then even lower - up to 9 ° until planting. Humidity in the room should be moderate, best suited sa-rai somewhere in the shade with good ventilation. Be sure to twice a month, the bulbs are inspected and diseased are removed.

Since the elegance and irresistibility of daffodils was recognized, they have been grown in almost every garden, front garden, and city flower bed. They look good as a cut and are combined with other plants. The narcissist is not only garden flower. It can also be grown at home in a pot.

Growing daffodils.

You can plant a plant in spring and autumn.
Autumn planting. Autumn is the best good time for landing. Planting bulbs should be carried out in September, then they will have time to take root before frost. The soil must be prepared 30 days before planting. It needs to be dug up, loosened and fertilized with humus.

Spring planting. In regions with a cold climate, the bulbs are planted in the spring, but they do not have time to ripen, flowering is late and occurs only in April. Landing is possible after the snow melts.

For normal growth and flowering of daffodils, you need to choose the right place. It must have good lighting and protection from the wind, as well as soil with neutral acidity, which allows air and water to pass through.

In one place, daffodils grow for about 5 years, then flowering becomes scarce. In order to solve this problem, the flower garden just needs to be moved to another place.

Planting daffodils in open ground.

The most best soil for daffodils - loam. To maintain acidity, wood ash is added to the soil annually.

Soil preparation

The land is prepared in several stages.

  • a year before planting, the soil is limed;
  • prepare a nutrient layer in summer. It consists of peat, humus, sand.
  • the site prepared in this way is waiting for planting until autumn. During this time, the earth will have time to absorb all the fertilizers.

Bulb selection.

Planting material must be chosen carefully, further flowering depends on it. fit healthy bulbs 5 cm.

After the material is selected, it is placed in a bag and filled with perlite. Once sealed, it will keep at room temperature for 10 days. You can replace perlite with a solution of potassium permanganate (1%).

The best bulbs can be bought in August and September, and when buying in the spring, there is a risk of getting defective goods. In the shops planting material sold in packages, so it can be appreciated by touch. It shouldn't be soft.

Planting bulbs.

If the bulbs are planted in heavy soil, then the planting depth should be twelve centimeters, if in light, then seventeen. Large bulbs are buried twenty-five cm, and the distance between them should be seventy. To get more children, the depth and distance between plantings are reduced by ten to twelve cm.

Narcissus bulbs are planted in holes, on the bottom of which sand is poured. Then peat is placed on the soil, and with the onset of frost, the area is covered with straw. When the snow melts protective layer removed, and the peat is left.

Caring for daffodils.

The plant does not require special care. Enough properly water, loosen and fertilize.

Watering and loosening.

Lack of moisture adversely affects flowering. When the first shoots appear, you need to water twice a week. After flowering, watering is not stopped so that the bulb can receive the necessary nutrients.
Periodically, the flower garden is weeded and loosened, faded flowers are removed in time.

Fertilizer

Throughout the entire period of growth of daffodils, they are fed 4 times:

  • used for sprouts mineral fertilizers;
  • at the stage of the appearance of the peduncle, a solution is prepared, which consists of potassium sulfate, superphosphate and urea;
  • when a bud has formed, phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen are used;
  • during the flowering period, phosphorus and potassium are used (the dosage is small).

Fertilizers are always applied after weeding. In drought it is better to use solutions, and in rainy weather - powders.

Reproduction of daffodils.

There are two methods of reproduction - seed and vegetative.
Reproduction by seeds most long way, plants will bloom only after 6 - 7 years. Dried seeds are planted in boxes with earth and looked after as seedlings. The first years the sprouts are not touched, they give the onion to get stronger and form roots. Then transplanted to a permanent place.

Vegetative method includes two options:

  1. separation of children from mother. They are planted in separate holes. They are cared for in the same way as for adult bulbs.
  2. reproduction by means of scales. To do this, take the largest bulbs and dry them for a week. Then cut off the top and divide into eight parts. Each lobule should have two scales. They are put in a bag and kept in closed 3-4 months, during this time small onions should form, which are planted in boxes with peat and sand.

Why don't daffodils bloom?

The plant may not bloom if it is not properly cared for.
There may be several options here:

  • the bulbs are too closely spaced to each other;
  • acidic soil;
  • little light;
  • stagnant water
  • lack of moisture.

Diseases and pests.

Daffodils are susceptible to the following diseases - fusarium, nematode and banding. Processing planting material before planting will get rid of the fungus. If the plant is affected by the virus, then it should be destroyed immediately. And lower healthy bulbs into hot water for a few hours.

Hoverfly, tick, fly harm daffodils. An insecticide will help against them.

Diseases most often occur due to violations of agricultural technology - poor lighting, too much nitrogen, inappropriate humidity and temperature.

What to do after flowering.

When flowering is over, the leaves should not be cut, they should dry out.
After the leaves have dried, the bulbs can not be dug up, but the ground parts can be removed, the flower garden should be weeded, loosened and watered until autumn.
You can store bulbs intended for planting:

  1. in the cellar (they are planted in boxes);
  2. in the refrigerator (stored in paper bag checking for rot).

Growing daffodils at home.

Daffodils grow well at home in pots and delight in flowering from December to March. In order for them to take root well, it is important to choose bulbs that are large and without damage (holes, scratches, rotting areas). After the planting material is purchased, it must be planted in pots as soon as possible. Until then, it should be stored in a cool, dry place.


In order for the plant to take root, you need to follow some rules.

Planting in pots

The pot for planting is taken not very high, in the width of the average size. In one pot, you can plant from 2 to 4 bulbs (the number depends on the size). A clay or ceramic container is best suited. If the pot is chosen incorrectly, the plant will not bloom. At the bottom of the pot should be holes for draining water. They are necessary so that the water does not stagnate, and the bulbs do not rot.

Land for planting can be bought at any special store. It can be a soil for daffodils, universal, or you can take the earth from the garden. Whatever the soil, you need to add sawdust, sand or clay to it. The earth must be crumbly. If there are lumps in it, then much less oxygen will enter the soil and this will lead to infection by the fungus.

After the pot and soil are selected, they begin planting. Drainage 3 cm thick is placed at the bottom of the pot and covered with earth. The bulbs are lightly pressed into the soil, their upper part should remain on the surface. Then the pot is placed for 3 months in a dark and cool place. After this period, the plant is transferred to the room.

In order for daffodils to bloom by December, the landing must be made in September. If flowering is planned for spring, then in November or December.

Daffodils should not be placed next to other plants on the windowsill, as they contain toxic substances and can harm home flowers.

Caring for flowers in the house

It is important to water the plant properly. The first watering is done immediately after planting the bulbs. While the rooting process is in progress, it should be moderate - once every 14 days. Then watered as the earth dries into the pan. The water must have room temperature. After the leaves turn yellow, watering should be stopped.

Fertilizing domestic daffodils is carried out 2 times: the first, when sprouts appeared; the second, when the buds started. Nitrogen and potassium are used for fertilizing.

After the plant has faded, the dried flowers are cut off, and the leaves are left. As soon as they completely wither, they are cut off and the pot is removed in a cool place. You can also take the bulbs out of the pot and wrap them in paper.

At home, narcissus is most often affected by a fungus. This is due to improper watering. The plant should not be flooded. Before planting, all planting material must be treated with a fungicide.

Among the pests are tick, nematode and fly. To prevent the plant from becoming infected, it is necessary to remove its withered parts in time, loosen the soil and inject an insecticide into it.

The use of daffodils in garden design.

These flowers can be used in various flower beds. They look best in the garden in large arrays of the same species. They can be combined with goose onions, scilas, corydalis, hyacinths, tulips, crocuses,

Impossible to imagine spring garden without blooming tender daffodils. These sunny, bright yellow and dazzling white flowers herald the arrival of spring. Their grace and delicate enchanting aroma have long conquered the hearts of connoisseurs and lovers of natural beauty. After all, it was not for nothing that even in ancient times people sang this fragile beautiful flower, considering it a love talisman. At different peoples In the world, many rituals, holidays and ceremonies are associated with the narcissus.

There are many varieties of daffodils - more than thirty thousand.

What kind of flower is a narcissus?

Narcissus is a popular perennial bulbous plant from the Amaryllis family.

These flowers prefer sunny and rather open places, but successfully withstand partial shade, with good water and air permeability of the soil.

They bloom in April-May. Narcissus flower consists of 6 tepals simple. Each of them gives an outgrowth that forms a crown, inside which there are 6 stamens and a style. There are varieties with one-color and two-color, simple and double flowers, with various form crowns, smooth or corrugated edges of the petals.

Daffodils are winter hardy and are especially valued for this.

Varieties of daffodils. Classification

All decorative varieties daffodils, which are currently more than 12 thousand, are divided into the following groups.

  1. Tubular (Trumpet). They have one flower on the peduncle, the crown is tubular, its length is approximately equal to the length of the petals. The flowers are white or yellow, one-color or two-color.
  2. Large-crowned (Large cupped). The flowers are solitary, one-color or two-color (white or yellow). The crown is cup-shaped, its length is from a third of the length of the petal, to equal to it.
  3. Small-crowned (Small-cap). The flowers are solitary, white and yellow, one-color or two-color. The crown is cup-shaped, the length of the crown is less than a third of the length of the petal.
  4. Terry (Double). A late variety with more than six perianth segments. The flowers are yellow, white and bicolor.
  5. Triandrus, triandrous (Triandrus). Flowers drooping, solitary or collected in umbellate inflorescences of 2-5 pieces. Petals are curved. The crown is cup-shaped, the length is about half the length of the petals.
  6. Cyclamenoid (Cyclamrneus). Flowers drooping, solitary, petals strongly recurved. Crown length from a third of the length of the petal to equal to it.
  7. Jonquilla: flowers have a pleasant aroma, their number in the inflorescence can be from 2 to 6, the petals are elongated, the crown is cup-shaped. The length of the crown is two thirds of the length of the petal or more.
  8. Tatsetny or multi-flowered - the most early variety, on one peduncle grows a whole bouquet of flowers (up to 20), which have a very rich aroma. beautiful flowers of medium size are located on a high peduncle (about 45 cm), the color is yellow and white, the crown is orange or white.

    This variety is not very hardy and resistant to weather changes, so it prefers a mild climate.

  9. Poetic (Poeticus) - differ in rather large single flowers, which have a sharp, but rather pleasant aroma. The petals are white, and the flat little crowns are orange, yellow-orange, and red, much shorter than the petals. The latest variety.

How to grow daffodils, how to care for them? When to plant daffodils?

Planting and caring for daffodils

Landing time

The best landing time in the middle lane is the end of August and the first ten days of September.

Landing place

For planting daffodils, it is preferable to choose a sunny or slightly shaded place, sheltered from drafts. Tatsetny daffodils must be planted in a sunny place, otherwise their flowering will not be plentiful. hybrid varieties with a red, pink and orange crown, on the contrary, it is better to plant in partial shade to protect against burnout.

Daffodils can be planted in rows or groups on alpine slide, lawn, in flower beds, between trees and shrubs or along paths.

Priming

In general, daffodils are undemanding to soils. However, it is desirable that the soil in the garden or flower bed should be quite fertile and light. AT clay soils when planting daffodils, sand is added, and humus is added to the poor ones. Also, when planting, mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil: superphosphate and potassium salt.

How to plant daffodils

On heavy soils, the bulbs are deepened by 5-7 cm when planting; shelter is necessary for the winter. On light soils, the planting depth is not more than 15 cm, otherwise the daffodils do not bloom, the buds form, but fade without blooming.

The distance between the rows should be 20-30 cm, and in the row between the bulbs - 15-25 cm. The bulbs are chosen not too small - from 1 cm in diameter. It is noticed that the bulbs with a tight fit are larger, and with a rare one they form more children.

Leveled after 10-14 days upper layer land above the landing and sprinkle leaf humus or peat layer 3-5 cm.

Watering

Daffodils need enough moisture overdrying can cause poor flowering. The soil in the garden should be regularly loosened to reduce the evaporation of moisture, and also weeded in time.

top dressing

For good growth during the summer, daffodils need to be fertilized. For this, it is convenient to use liquid mineral fertilizers. The first top dressing is applied after the appearance of the entrances, the second - when the peduncles appear and the buds form. When choosing a fertilizer, it should be borne in mind that with an excess of nitrogen in the soil, the flowering of daffodils worsens: buds form, but do not bloom. In such cases, phosphorus mineral fertilizers or ash are applied to the soil. Ash is added at the rate of 100 g per 1 sq. m.

Digging and transplanting

Daffodils can grow in one place from 3 to 10 years. When the planted bulb was overgrown with children and turned into big bush, and it began to bloom badly or stopped blooming altogether, a transplant is made.

It is recommended to dig and replant daffodil bulbs annually if the site is located on peat soils, because in such conditions, by the spring of the second year, the bulbs may be so deep that they will not produce flowers.

Also, every year, some flower growers transplant terry and tubular varieties of daffodils, so they better retain varietal characteristics.

They start digging up the bulbs as soon as the leaves of the daffodils dry up (usually this happens in July). They are then dried in for three weeks, thoroughly cleaned of earth and old roots and stored until planting. Store the bulbs indoors, dry, well ventilated and not too hot.

If you have already prepared a place for daffodils, they can be planted immediately after digging, without drying and removing the roots. They will tolerate such a transplant perfectly even during flowering.

daffodils after flowering

After the end of flowering, the leaves of faded daffodils are not cut off, but they are waiting for them to dry. During this period, the storage of nutrients in the bulbs occurs. What to do with the plants next depends on whether you are going to plant them or leave them on. next year in the old place.

In the first case, they are dug up and prepared for transplantation, as described above. If the bulbs are left in the old place, then after flowering, you need to feed with high content potassium and phosphorus.

Do I need to cover daffodils for the winter?

Daffodils are considered pretty undemanding plants that do not need shelter for the winter. However sometimes it is desirable to take care of shelter. Firstly, if the planting of daffodils was made after September 15 (with late boarding the plant does not have time to take root properly and dies in the case of a cold and little snowy winter. It is also recommended to cover large-flowered varieties daffodils (tacetaceous, triandrus, cyclamen and jonquillium), more vulnerable to frost. For shelter use a layer of dry leaves about 15 cm thick.

A little about terry varieties

Terry varieties of daffodils endure frost worse. When planting in the fall, the planting time must be calculated in such a way that the plants have time to take root well before the onset of cold weather. For the winter, it is advisable to cover such daffodils with a layer of fallen leaves. Another feature of terry daffodils is their high demands on the soil. They grow better and bloom more luxuriantly in light sandy soils than in heavy ones.

Reproduction of daffodils

It is easiest to propagate daffodils by children after digging. Hybrid varieties can only be propagated in this way. Wild daffodils can also be obtained from seeds. After flowering, if the flower is not removed, a fruit is formed, which, after maturation, produces seeds.

Daffodils in a bouquet

Decorative daffodils look great when cut. To keep the flowers fresh longer, you need to cut them in the morning in a state of bursting buds. Their peduncles should be broken out at the surface of the soil, and not cut off. It is necessary to immediately put them in water, and if this is not possible, then temporarily wrap them in moistened paper. It is important that the cuts do not leak juice, so they must be kept cut up before being placed in water.

Types of daffodils in nature

    Jonquilla Narcissus (Narcissus jonquilla L.)

    Widespread, very decorative look. The height of a thin cylindrical peduncle is 20-30, sometimes up to 40 cm. The leaves are green, in the amount of 2-4 pieces.

    The flowers have a pleasant citrus aroma, usually collected in umbrellas of 2-6 pieces, but can be single. Each flower is about 3 cm in size. The petals are bright or pale yellow. The crown is cup-shaped, bright yellow color.

    This is a winter-hardy species, withstands temperatures of about -30 degrees.

    The jonquill daffodil is often used for forcing.

    Narcissus tazetta, bouquet (Narcissus tazetta L.)

    Another highly decorative look. Peduncle height 25-45 cm, flattened shape. The flowers are 3-5 cm in diameter, the number in the inflorescence is 4-8 pieces. Petals are white, with curved edges. Crown color from bright yellow to yellow-orange.

    This species requires growing in open, well-lit areas. It belongs to heat-loving and drought-resistant, and does not differ in high frost resistance, hibernates at a temperature not lower than -12 degrees. Therefore, in areas with harsher winters, it requires shelter or digging and storing the bulbs indoors.

    Narcissus tasset is one of the main species used to develop new varieties of daffodils.

    Narcissus poetic, white (Narcissus poeticus L.)

    A rather tall species, height 35-50 cm. The peduncle has a two-sided shape. The number of leaves is 2-4 pieces. The flowers are large, 4.5-7 cm in diameter, with a pleasant smell, arranged singly. Petals are white, yellow at the base. The crown is flat, wide, yellow in color, has a red or orange corrugated border around the edges.

    It is frost-resistant, hibernates at a temperature of about -30 degrees.

    It serves as the basis for the selection of new varieties.

  • Narcissus incomparable, incomparable (Narcissus x incomparabilis Mill.)

    It is a natural hybrid of the poetic narcissus and the false narcissus.

    Plant height 30-45 cm. Leaves are gray-green, 3-4 pieces. The peduncle is dihedral, flowers are singly located on it, the size of the flowers is 5-8 cm in diameter. Petals are light yellow. The crown is orange-yellow, cupped, with wavy edges.

    Resistant to frost down to -30 degrees.

The species described above are most widespread in culture, in addition to them, the following are known:

  • Narcissus minimal (Narcissus asturiensis (Jordan) Pugsley.)
  • Narcissus bicolor (Narcissus bicolor L.)
  • Bulb Narcissus (Narcissus bulbocodium L.)
  • Cyclamenoid Narcissus (Narcissus cyclamineus D.C.)
  • Small narcissus (Narcissus minor L.)
  • False narcissus (Narcissus pseudonarcissus L.)
  • Narcissus triandrus L., tears of an angel (Narcissus triandrus L.)

Useful properties of daffodils

The flowers of daffodils contain essential oils, and in the bulbs - alkaloids, so since ancient times they have been used in medicine and perfumery. For example, Eastern healers treated mastitis with bulbs, and eye diseases with a medicine obtained from false daffodil. However, you should not try to use daffodils for medicinal and cosmetic purposes on your own, because. These plants contain toxic substances in their composition.

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