Timbered roof. Choosing a roof for a log house and some nuances

The roof is the most important and indispensable element of any structure, including log houses. Such structures must meet certain conditions for stability, reliability, heat and waterproofing. Roofing materials are subject to requirements for frost resistance, as well as for chemical and radiation resistance.

Roof structure

The location of the roof makes it an element that survives the elements more than others. It should become a reliable barrier against moisture and withstand the pressure of snowfall.

The roof is an important architectural component that plays an important role in the appearance of a log house. Its functionality depends on the characteristics of the roof and the quality of the supporting structure.

The entire roof can be divided into several parts: rafters, lathing, roofing. It has inclined surfaces (ribs and slopes) and horizontal canvases (valley, ridge, gutter). The lower edge of the slope can be equipped with gutters.

roof shape

Various roof structures can be erected over log buildings:

Straight pitched

The simplest and least used option, whose design is based on walls of different heights.

gable

The most suitable variety for a log house, characterized by a simple design and relatively low weight. It consists of rafters, Mauerlat, gables, ridge runs. Allows you to equip a full-fledged attic, which can be used for storage or other purposes.

hip

If you rearrange the gables of the gable roof with a slope towards the center, then you get a hip version. Such a roof allows you to provide a wide interior space, 100% stability against gusts of wind and bad weather.

Half hip

A more labor-intensive variety containing trapezoidal pediments covered with parts of the hips. The attic room has a vast area. The side walls of the structure can play the role of the walls of the room.

Shatrovaya

It has 4 edges combined at one top point. It is an ideal option for houses of the correct geometric shape with the same length of the sides. Resistant to shrinkage and climatic manifestations.

Gable

A roof for a house made of timber can have an unusual shape, an example of which is the gable version. The complexity of the design requires special building skills, so it is beyond the power of a novice master to create it.

Attic

The most practical version of the roof and attic, which is also called a sloping roof. Allows you to save material, allowing you to get an additional square for housing.

Conclusion

The choice of a roof for a log house depends on the experience of the builders, the complexity of the structure and the wishes of the customer. When building a building on your own, it is better to stay on a gable version of the roof.

Roof- this is the most important element, without which not a single building can do, and even more so, your dream is a house made of logs. Roofs are subject to certain requirements for stability, strength, - and. Roofing materials must be frost-resistant and, moreover, have chemical and radiation resistance.

Existing materials for are diverse both in terms of technical characteristics and operational properties, as well as in texture and color.

The roof, more than other elements of the building, is exposed to natural elements. It must withstand the weight of the snow cover and prevent the penetration of moisture. All year round, the roof is, as it were, tested by nature for strength. And also the roof is a very important architectural element of the building, which plays a big role in its appearance. What is the difference between the roofs used in the construction of a log house? The appearance and its functionality are determined not only by the features of the roof. After all, the condition of the roof during operation also depends on how well the project is chosen and executed.

Every developer dreams of building a beautiful, reliable roof and ... forgetting about it, if not forever, then at least for a long time. We will talk about how to realize this dream now.

The choice of roofing material for your future log house is a very delicate process. I want the roof to be beautiful and durable. The existing variety of roofing materials is at first shocking. What to choose? Everything is presented on the market: from the banal roofing material and the well-known slate to more exotic slate, reeds and shingles. When such a question arose before us, we set a clear criterion for ourselves: sufficient durability and modern appearance with an optimal price / quality ratio.

As a result of the analysis, two candidates remained: metal tiles and soft tiles. It is no coincidence that these two roofing materials are now the most common. My wife stood up for metal tiles, and I liked soft tiles. Both materials have their shortcomings, which stopped us in the final choice.

The soundproofing of the metal tile roof leaves much to be desired. Insulation, at best, will only change the tone of the noise of rain, wind or the steps of our feathered neighbors. The second drawback is the increased formation of condensate, which increases the risk of moisture penetration into the insulation and increases the corrosion of the roof itself. The fact is that the metal tile is more protected from the outside. When the self-tapping screws expose the unprotected part of the metal, and besides, condensate accumulates in the places where the profile is attached to the crate, then all the conditions for the occurrence of corrosion are created. Moreover, corrosion develops hidden and will make itself felt at the most unpredictable moment. From conversations with builders, another unpleasant factor emerged. Metal tile requires delicacy during installation. It is enough for a roofer to turn around on his heel, being on a coated metal tile, as this mineral crumb will work like sandpaper - cutting off all layers of protection. Of course, all these scratches can be painted over, but are you sure that this will be done?

Soft tile is a relatively new material and its durability is still based more on laboratory tests. Be sure to pay attention to the quality of the material, try the "flakes" for bending and breaking. Inexpensive models, especially domestic ones, often simply break at the same time. I, as a fan of soft tiles, had to study its properties in detail and defend its advantages at family councils. As far as I understand, soft tiles give an absolute advantage only on complex roofs, when trimming of roofing material is minimized.

Once, even at the stage of making a log house, we talked with Denis Migachev (general director of the Rus Log Building company, which built the log house for us). After listening to our horror stories, either about a crow breaking through soft tiles on a ridge with its beak, or about the drumming of rain on a metal tile (my wife and I were having a comic “tug of war”) Denis asked if we had thought about natural tiles. He considered my words that I was not a Rockefeller inappropriate, explaining that it was not about ceramic, but about cement-sand tiles (CHR). With his suggestion, we began to study this direction and found out that indeed the price of the issue was comparable to the cost of high-quality soft and metal tiles. So for our gable roof, with an area of ​​125 sq.m, a complete set of materials for Frankfurt shingles from the Braas company amounted to about 70 thousand rubles. (2008 prices) And this includes all the minimum necessary additional elements, and they are just the most expensive.

Advice
For roofs of log houses we recommend natural tiles. It has an increased weight, which reduces the shrinkage period of the log house and prevents possible deformation of the logs.Denis Migachev, General Director of the construction company "Rus Log"

Why didn't we pay attention to the CHR before? I asked myself this question in surprise. Probably, the stereotypes worked that natural tiles are inaccessible to the average layman. Fortunately, times are changing, and if in the dashing nineties rare cell phones were just a must-have addition to crimson jackets, now grandmothers everywhere send sms to their grandchildren (using them the child learns the alphabet), and parents' mobile phones have become favorite toys for kids. Apparently the same thing happened with natural tiles, I just wasn't ready for it yet. The price is the price, but we wanted to understand what the CHR is. How does it differ from ceramic tiles, and if it is significantly (2-3 times) cheaper, then why. What are the advantages and disadvantages of this roofing material.

As it turned out, the history of the issue dates back to the post-war years. After World War II, Europe had to be rebuilt. As for the roofing material, the question was not even raised - only natural tiles. But the existing technologies for the production of ceramic tiles could not provide the required volumes, and the price was too high.

The solution was proposed by Rudolf Braas (Braas is named after him). Instead of labor-intensive and energy-intensive technology for the production of ceramic tiles, the technology for creating cement-sand tiles of the Frankfurt model was proposed. What is the difference?

In the production of ceramic tiles in a special mold, under high pressure, the clay blank is given the necessary shape, then the blank is dried, a coloring coating is applied on top, and then the tile is fired in a kiln at a temperature of about 1000 degrees. The first procedure is difficult to put on stream and it becomes a "bottleneck" for a sharp increase in production volumes.

The method proposed by Braas, on the contrary, is very technologically advanced and does not require large expenditures for firing. The composition of the CPC is also natural: quartz sand, Portland cement, water, iron oxide pigment (it colors the entire structure of the tile) and acrylic dye (for coloring the surface of the tile). At the heart of everything is the conveyor. The colored concrete mass is poured into a continuous line of molds, it is given the necessary shape by rolling rollers on the conveyor, acrylic dye is applied over the wet surface and then, within 12 hours, the workpiece hardens at a temperature of about 60 degrees. After that, the acrylic dye is applied again.

This photo of the roof described in the article was taken already in 2013 from the attic bedroom. By the way, most of the author's articles, published later, were no longer included in the Landowner magazine, but were published on the pages of our website. In particular, the story about the completion of the roofing cake in the house and the decoration of the attic ceiling

Like ordinary concrete, tiles only increase their strength over time. The advantages of CPC include staining of the entire mass of the tile (there will be no sharp color change on chips or cuts) and the absence of unfilled pores (usually organic inclusions burn out during firing) - the tile absorbs less moisture.

In addition to the fact that the tile is natural and therefore environmentally friendly, it has a number of additional advantages: it muffles the noise of rain and wind well, it does not heat up so much in the heat, it provides better ventilation for the roofing cake, it is easy to repair (only tiles around the perimeter are screwed to the crate, the rest lie freely ). According to the service life, it is positioned as "eternal".

Don't let the heavy weight of such a roof scare you. In fact, the truss system is designed for a significant snow and wind load (about 200 kg / m2) and the share of the weight of the roof itself, even tiled (50 kg / m2), is not so large here. For example, we did not even need to adjust the design of the truss system of the house.

So, we decided on the roofing material, now the question arose of how to build and to whom it can be trusted. We knew that building a roof for a log house was a very specific operation. Having considered several commercial proposals, we settled on a company from Vyborg, which had previously made a foundation for us with sufficient quality (the construction of the foundation and the log house is described in the August issue of the Landowner). The personal factor and mutual trust means a lot, and we have already convinced ourselves of their ability to solve emerging complex issues. In addition, the company, the manufacturer of the log house, was ready to give the necessary advice.

To begin with, it was necessary to decide on the procedure for solving two issues due to the peculiarities of the log house (the presence of shrinkage of the log house, uneven wall surfaces, etc.):

• how to connect the rafters with each other and with the elements of the log house (ridge log, sleds and upper logs of the walls);
• how to ensure in the future an elegant docking of the sloping attic ceiling with vertical log walls
;

The fact is that the rafter system of a log house differs from the classic schemes of layered and hanging rafters. In the first years of its life, the log house shrinks by 5-10% of its height. During the shrinkage of the attic floor, the rafters should slide smoothly along the slopes (these are logs parallel to the ridge log) and the upper logs of the walls on which the rafters rest. A fixed connection of rafters is permissible only with a ridge log.

At the ridge, the rafters can be butt-jointed or overlapped. To connect the rafters, it is better to use steel plates with bolts, in extreme cases - nails. The use of self-tapping screws is undesirable, since they are relatively fragile and may not withstand a large load.

The rafters themselves are edged boards with a section of 150..200 by 50 mm. It is desirable to cover the rafters and the crate with fire and bioprotection means. Since water-based antiseptics are used (for internal structural elements), I strongly advise against the use of coloring preparations. Many builders got burned on this. The fact is that time will pass between the installation of the rafters and the laying of the roofing material, and the first rain will paint your log walls in the color of an antiseptic, which, most likely, is not included in your plans.

The subtlest moment in such a rafter system is the use of movable joints (“sliders”) that fasten the rafters and the upper logs of the walls (the rafters are not fixed on the slats, but simply lie under their own weight). Such a connection in a modern version is a corner fixed on a log, and a guide ruler connected to the corner, which is attached to the rafters and allows them to move relative to the corner.

The correct installation of these elements is extremely important, otherwise the entire roof may “hang”, which will lead to disastrous consequences. What you need to pay attention to:

• the guide ruler should be attached parallel to the rafters;
• a platform is usually prepared under a corner on a log, the corner itself must be strictly perpendicular to the ruler, and hence to the rafters;
• the corner should be located at the bottom of the ruler, allowing the rafters to slide down 7-8 cm;
• the screws securing the corner must not penetrate the rafters.

To solve the second question - a beautiful and reliable connection of the attic ceiling to the wall, two approaches are possible. If you plan to lay the insulation immediately and form a roofing pie from the bottom up, then it is better to use the Norwegian method. At the same time, a cut is made in the walls and the lining of the attic ceiling, vapor barrier, rafters, insulation between them, then waterproofing on top, even higher crate and, finally, the selected roofing material.

If you decide to first build the roof itself, and later (for example, after the main shrinkage of the log house) form the rest of the roofing pie (i.e. form it from top to bottom), then you should use German technology, which has become widespread in Russia. In this case, after the installation of the rafters, in all internal walls parallel to the gable, grooves are cut parallel to the lower edges of the rafters. The width of the groove is taken equal to the thickness of the material with which it is planned to sheathe the attic ceiling. The depth of the groove is usually 3-5 cm and depends on the thickness of the logs. This is a very time-consuming procedure that requires highly skilled carpenters and high-quality tools. At first I was afraid that the construction team would not be able to take on this, but they turned out to be on top.

Of course, builders can offer you less time-consuming options: figuredly cut the lining (bypassing the logs) or place decorative corners at the junction of the ceiling and gable walls. But it's not very cool. Firstly, the lining also dries out and cracks will form in the future, and secondly, as we remember, the roof, together with the attic ceiling, will move due to the shrinkage of the log house and the figuratively cut lining can simply be torn off, and thirdly, decorative corners look good on flat walls , but on log houses, alas - not very much.

By the way, the builders solved another problem. To ensure unhindered sliding of the attic ceiling, it was decided to raise the rafters above the ridge log and the slats by the thickness of the lining. For this, special planks were placed under the rafters on the ridge log and on the sleds, the thickness corresponding to the thickness of the future ceiling lining. At the lowest point of the rafter supports - the logs of the walls, the depth of the groove was reduced by the same amount.

Advice
It is more reliable to entrust the selection and purchase of lumber and hardware to a construction company erecting a roof. She probably has well-established connections, which will provide the required quality of rafters and battens at comparable prices. To deliver tiles to the roof, it is convenient to use a special chute, along which tiles are carefully and safely lifted on a skid.

The remaining operations for the construction of the truss system and the laying of roofing material are more or less standard and have already been described more than once in the literature. We note only a few points.

Trimming rafters and decoration. Rafters are usually cut vertically, less often horizontally, or perpendicular to the line of the rafters. We have chosen the first option. The pediment and cornice overhangs are sheathed, respectively, with pediment (frontal) and cornice boards. Given the significant thickness of the roofing cake (30-35 cm), several boards are used, usually 10 cm wide, overlapping them. The use of wider boards is undesirable as they are more prone to deformation. You can also use plastic panels.

Particular attention should be paid to waterproofing the roof. After leveling the plane of the rafters, waterproofing material is laid on top of them. It can be either a vapor-permeable membrane (vapor permeability per day 750 - 1000 g / m2) or a durable film. Experts advise using membranes. Despite the fact that membranes are 2-3 times more expensive, their vapor permeability is 200-300 times higher. In the cost of a square meter of roofing, the cost of waterproofing is minimal. What does it give? Using the membrane, you can lay it directly on the insulation, creating a single-layer ventilation (between the tiles and the membrane), not worry about the ventilation gap on the ridge, etc. If you use a simple film, then you need to create a two-layer ventilation, creating a mandatory gap of at least 2 cm .between thermal insulation and film. If the film comes into contact with the thermal insulation, the resulting condensate will penetrate the thermal insulation and drastically degrade its performance. The problem is that, when laying the roofing cake from top to bottom, it will be difficult for you to estimate the size of this gap and there is a high probability that the thermal insulation will touch the film.

Oddly enough, but the laying of tiles must begin with the installation of elements of the drainage system, namely the brackets for fastening the gutters. In general, top and bottom fastening of these gutters is acceptable. In the first case, they are attached at the level of the crate, in the second - at the level of the rafters. For snowy regions, a top mount is recommended. When marking and bending the brackets, it is necessary to ensure that the gutter slopes towards the downpipe (at least 3 mm per 1 meter of the gutter).

After installing the brackets, they proceed to the direct laying of the tiles. Of course, before this, calculations must be made for the placement of the battens of the crate, for which the tiles will be hooked.

Advice
Use special holders for ridge and spine bars, this will increase the reliability of the structure and you will not have to "reinvent the wheel". The valley is one of the most difficult elements of the roof. Therefore, do not save on high-quality aluminum valleys, they are not afraid of scratches and corrosion.
Roman Spiridonov, Braas technical consultant

In general, I strongly recommend that you read the detailed instructions for creating a roofing system. It is posted on our company website at . It describes in detail all the steps from calculating the ventilation of the roof to the installation of decorative elements. This instruction will be of interest to you, even if you use tiles from another manufacturer.

Supervised installation from the Braas company turned out to be very useful, which is especially nice, two visits of the master were free. This was quite enough to answer the questions of our builders.

By the way, the company from Vyborg very conscientiously coped with its rather difficult task. I was surprised to see specially prepared technological maps for the implementation of individual operations, supplemented by detailed drawings. As a result, the roof turned out very beautiful. Along the way, a number of tasks that required professionalism were solved - the log house was painted twice on the outside (for this, a whole system of additional scaffolding had to be built), the beams of the first floor were sawn and installed, the roof of the trailer was put in order, etc.

From my own experience, I can say that after two high-quality major works (foundation and roof) and a lot of useful advice, I no longer have a doubt who to entrust with the further stages of building a house. I wish you to find a company that will not only perform the assigned work, but also become a valuable adviser in your difficult fate as a developer.

According to the materials of the journal Landowner of the North-West.
We express our gratitude to Marat Ismagilov

The roof of a log house is no less important than the foundation and walls. Modeling and bringing to life the construction of the roof of a log house is not an easy task and beyond the power of home-grown craftsmen, excluding small country houses with a simple shed type. The popular types of truss systems that make a log object individual are described below. Owner's choice.

There are several types of roof structures depending on the device, material and purpose:

1. Straight pitched;
2. gable;
3. hip;
4. Half hip;
5. Tent;
6. Forceps and multi-forceps;
7. Attic;
8. Combined.

More on each below.

Straight pitched roof

To put it bluntly, such an option is devoid of wisdom. Yes, and the appearance leaves much to be desired. It is mainly used in outbuildings, garages. Relies on walls of different heights. Even an amateur can build such an option. Cheap and angry.

The most practical option for a log building. Not too heavy and simple design.

Depending on the dimensions of the object, such roofs of log houses are built using reinforcement along the rafters, mauerlat, ridge runs and gables, assembled on the ground and raised up in finished form. Under such a roof, you can arrange a full-fledged attic for storing items or organize an area for other non-residential purposes.

Usually, sliding supports are used in the rafter system - the timber is not fixed tightly to the corresponding mates, but using a special device that allows the massive house not to deform the roof during shrinkage. Otherwise, such a system is called - a sliding roof of a log house. The measure is invaluable when building a facility from scratch.

Having presented the gables of a simple gable roof at an angle to its center, the owner receives this option. There are dormers. The advantages of this type are a wide space inside, absolute resistance to bad weather, strong winds and seismic activity of the soil.

The construction of the roof of a log house of this type is difficult to perform and should be left to professionals. As for the appearance, such a roof, combined with beautiful roofing material, looks great and gives the impression of a fortress, which it really is.

Half hip roof

An even more labor-intensive option. It is interesting in its appearance - the pediments are made in the form of trapeziums and are covered with parts of the hips. The attic in this case is extensive and the side parts of the roof can become the walls of the room.

Perfect alignment of edges at one point. It is strongly recommended for buildings that have regular geometric shapes with the same side lengths.

The advantages of other pitched options are resistance to shrinkage and external manifestations of the climate. This is one of the varieties of the hip roof, that is, it will require professional knowledge during the device.

Gable and multi-gable roofing

In a timber or log house, the roof, as conceived by the designer and designer, can become a work of art. This feature was obtained by gable options used on objects that are complex shapes - polygons, bay windows, ledges, turrets.

Covering them with one plane is too problematic, and sometimes impossible. The design of the rafters does not lend itself to the forces of a home master who does not have basic knowledge about the features of construction.

mansard roof

The most practical design of the roof and attic space. Otherwise, such options are called - a log house with a sloping roof. The practicality lies in saving material - solid whips - for building a house, with the possibility of obtaining additional living space.

Combined roofs

Different styles used in the construction of a log house should be covered with special roofs that combine all of the above types. So that this does not look like a dissonance, such a truss system is determined even at the design and computer modeling stage.

It will not be possible to independently make such a roof, in principle, damage and waste of material. People who choose this type of roof anticipate spending or increasing their budget in advance.

How to make a roof on a log house yourself

If for some reason the owners cannot use the services of professionals, and have chosen a simple version of the system, then trying to do the work on their own is still worth it - you cannot leave a log house without a roof for a long time. So, a simple gable system:

• For rafters, a beam with a cross section of at least 150 mm is used. Accompanying elements can be more modest parameters, bearing - never.
• The upper crown is removed and a Mauerlat is installed in its place - a strapping lower beam.
• Finished rafter legs, cut at an angle for connection, are mounted on sliding supports and among themselves, if a ridge run is not used. Go beyond the crowns, they should be 20 - 25 cm.
• The pediments are assembled on the ground and raised into place in the form of shields.
• The crate is stuffed for the insulation tab, heat and waterproofing is installed.
• Roof line. It is offered to owners of private housing in numerous options - soft, ceramic, metal. It all depends on the purpose, choice and purchasing power of the client.

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Building a roof is a long and laborious task, but it is necessary to protect the house from bad weather and heat loss. With the independent construction of the building, the installation of roof rafters with your own hands is doable, if you follow all the requirements for creating the base of the roof. The main thing is to have the necessary knowledge and at least a little experience in construction. Do not forget: the condition of the house depends on the reliability of the roof. In order to do everything correctly, you need to know the features of creating a truss system, and perform all the work in sequence.

Roof and rafter systems

The roofs of houses are usually inclined planes - they are called slopes. Roofing slopes are based on a truss system, on which a crate is laid for laying roofing materials.

The lower ends of the rafters are usually supported by a Mauerlat. At the intersection of the slopes, ribs are obtained - inclined and horizontal. Horizontal elements are called a ridge. At the intersections of the slopes formed by the incoming corners, valleys and grooves are equipped. The edges of the roof protruding above the walls of the buildings are called gable or cornice overhangs. They are located horizontally, and a ledge extends beyond the outer walls. After laying the battens, then the rafters above them, the roofing material is collected. Before installing the roof, heat, steam and waterproofing must be laid.

From what slope the roof slopes have, the roofs are flat and pitched. The first have a slope of 2.5-10%, and the second - more than 10%. Slopes are roof planes that allow water to drain off it.

Roofs are divided into the following types:

• shed - based on two outer walls of different heights;
• gable - they are supported by two external walls of the same height (in more detail: "");
• tented - they have four slopes, which have the shape of identical triangles converging at a single point;
• four-pitched (hip) - roofs with triangular slopes at the ends; when it does not reach the eaves, the roof is called half-hipped;
• attic (broken) gable - two planes of such roofs are rectangles connected at obtuse angles.

The type of pitched roof mainly depends on which rafter installation scheme was used. Rafters are the main load-bearing elements of the roof, and they must not only support the weight of the roof, but also be resistant to the pressure of snow and wind. To perform calculations of the truss system, it is necessary to be guided by the type of roofing material, the strength of the winds characteristic of the region and the size of the snow cover.

Rafter legs are interconnected in order to increase the rigidity of the frame. To prevent the roof from blowing away in strong winds, the frame must be connected to the "box" of the house even before. When building private houses, timber truss systems are usually used - they are easily processed and installed.

Types and features of rafters

Before proceeding to how to install the rafters, you need to understand their device and types.

Rafters are layered and hanging. Methods for installing rafters and their type are selected based on roofing materials, loads in the form of wind and snow, and roof slope. Hanging rafters rest only on the extreme two points, for example, on the walls of the house. Intermediate supports in this case are not needed. Hanging rafters are designed to bend and compress. Also, such a system creates a significant bursting load horizontally, transmitted to the walls. It can be reduced with metal or wooden puffs connecting the rafters.

Puffs are placed at the base of the rafters, while the screed is also a floor beam. This method is usually used to create a mansard roof (read: ""). Puffs can also be located above the rafters. The higher the puffs are located, the more reliable and powerful they should be. Such truss systems are used in cases where the spans are 7-12 meters, and additional supports are not provided. Thus, the main elements of the hanging system are rafter legs with puffs of the lower belt.

Rafters of the layered type are built differently. They are installed in houses in which there is an additional load-bearing wall or supports located in the center relative to the external load-bearing walls. The ends of such rafters rest on the side walls, and for the middle part there is support from load-bearing pillars or an internal wall. The elements of such rafters work like beams - only in bending.

The installation of one roofing system over several spans involves the alternating installation of hanging and inclined roof trusses. In those places where there are no intermediate supports, hanging rafters are installed, and where they are, inclined ones. If the roof span (gap between supports) exceeds 6.5 meters (with an additional support element of 10-12 meters), layered rafters are used.

This design is created in the same way as in houses with a frame system. The crate is made from solid double beams or planks of sparse flooring, and it is attached to the rafters with nails.

The crate under the flooring of a soft roof, for example, of roofing felt, is made in the form of a continuous flooring. It should consist of two layers of boards - the result is a double flooring. The top layer of the crate is protective, the bottom is considered working. A single solid or sparse (having a gap of 20-30 millimeters) flooring is used as a base for a coating of asbestos-cement slabs. A crate of bars with a base of 50x50 millimeters is used as the basis for classic slate, wavy and tiles.

Rafter legs can be fixed in several ways, depending on the materials from which the structure was built:

• by connecting to the upper strapping of wooden frame buildings;
• connection with the upper crowns (relevant for houses of wooden chopped and cobbled);
• by connecting with support bars (used for stone houses). In this case, the thickness of the Mauerlat should be 150-160 millimeters. It can be solid (the beam is laid along the entire length of the building) or partial (the beams are laid only at the junction with the rafter legs).

Rafter legs of a small section must be protected from sagging - for this, a lattice of struts, crossbars and racks is used. At the same time, racks and struts are made of logs with a diameter of 130-140 millimeters. Proper installation of rafters on the roof involves connecting them with puffs. So that the rafter legs do not slip along the puff and do not chip, they are cut with a tooth 1/3 of the puff size high, and a spike is created. Sometimes both are used at the same time. Cutting the rafter leg to the end of the puff, the tooth is pushed as far as possible. The puff can remain unharmed if the rafters are installed 30-40 centimeters from its edge.

Rafter installation

To create a truss structure, you can only take lumber of 1-2 grades without rot and wormholes. Boards and beams are cut to the desired length with a circular saw using the transverse cutting method, then the products are trimmed according to a given pattern on the same machine. In width, the elements are sawn on a circular saw along a longitudinal cutting.

The technology for installing rafters is as follows .

Elements of the system are assembled on the striker in templates. The parts to be connected are placed at the striker in a convenient manner so that they can be used without unnecessary movements and efforts. Before starting the assembly, a full-size rafter scheme is applied to the striker with charcoal or chalk for connection. On the striker, you can fill the strips that will fix the assembled rafter legs.

After the cutting is completed and the control assembly is carried out, the rafters are marked and completed. The control assembly of the rafter legs is needed in order to be able to install without fitting. In the truss elements, places are provided for installing bolts and dowels. Rafters with a small span are sometimes assembled directly at the enterprises, and delivered to the construction site already in finished form.

Rafter log structures

In the manufacture of log rafters, round debarked wood with a diameter of 18 centimeters is used. Logs should be straight and even, without rot, wormholes, curvature. Small irregularities are processed with an ax along the cord.

Installation of rafters on a log house is the creation of a support for the rafter legs on the upper crowns of the building. The reliability of the design depends on how correctly this is done. The puffs with which the rafter legs will be connected must be made of high quality wood. The log selected for tightening is trimmed to the required length. Since most often a round beam is supplied with a length of 6.5 meters, puffs for large spans are usually made from two or three logs interconnected along the length. Then they select the material for the rafter legs.

Struts and racks, having a shorter length, are made from scraps or from short logs. For selected products, the ends are trimmed and markings are made according to a template of plywood or thin sheet metal. The points of the cuts at the end of the marking are cut out and cleaned with a sharply sharpened ax.

Composite-type beams on lamellar dowels are used in the arrangement of ceilings and upper chords of the truss - they are assembled from beams on wooden dowels. The most common precast section design is the beam. It is a construction of two or three coniferous timber beams connected to each other by lamellar dowels and made using hardwood (most often oak, sometimes birch), it is used during installation. The pins in the beams are installed along the entire length, with the exception of the middle part, in which the shear forces are insignificant.

Beams are produced from first grade beams, previously dried to a moisture level of not more than 20%. This indicator for lamellar dowels for beams should be no more than 10%.

Before installing the rafters on the log house, the beams are assembled. This can be done using a special device consisting of two stands (supports), they have a shaft that performs rotation in two bushings. Bars are located on the trestles on each side of the shaft. With the help of clamps-strands, the ends of the beams are shifted. In order to achieve the desired mounting lift in the beams, two spacers with a thickness suitable for the lift are attached to the shaft.

After the ends of the beams are coupled, their middle becomes bent under the influence of spacers, and the beams are bent based on the magnitude of the rise. During the bending of the beams, you need to pay attention to the fact that the planes of the beams in contact with each other are fitted to each other.

In general, the installation of rafters during the construction of the roof of the bath is identical to the assembly of the structure on the house. Before that, they install a power plate, assemble a truss truss and make a crate.

After the installation of the truss system and the batten is completed, you can proceed to the flooring of the roofing material. When creating a roof, do not forget about heat, hydro and vapor barrier, especially if you plan to use an attic.