The ovaries of cucumbers wither in the greenhouse. Yellowing of the ovary of cucumbers due to disease

Sometimes, instead of forming long-awaited cucumbers, the ovaries on cucumbers do not develop, but dry up and fall off. Let's try to figure out why the ovaries of cucumbers turn yellow and what to do in this case, because this problem is familiar to many gardeners.

Yellowing of the ovary of cucumbers due to violation of planting dates

Since the plant is thermophilic, they are planted on the ridges when average daily temperature soil is 10-12 degrees. Cucumbers are grown by seedlings or by sowing seeds directly into the ground. In this case, they must be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate. Plants will be less susceptible to disease. Seedlings are ready for planting at the age of 25-30 days and with 5-6 true leaves per stem.

Poor quality seeds. The main reason why cucumbers grow poorly and fruits slowly appear lies in poor-quality seeds or their improper preparation for sowing. Many gardeners neglect the requirement for proper preparation and simply sow fresh seeds in the ground. As a result, empty flowers and female flowers appear in different time, which leads to problems with the ovary of fruits.

Yellowing of the ovary of cucumbers due to seed quality

The appearance of "female" flowers late, which accordingly leads to later fruiting - may be due to wrong choice seeds. If you sowed fresh seeds, then "male" flowers grow on the plants first, and they are empty flowers, that is, they do not bear fruit. And only then do female flowers appear. If you sow seeds that are already a couple of years old, the "female" flowers appear along with the male ones, or even earlier than the male ones. If you are not aware of the age of the seeds, heat them - this speeds up the appearance of female flowers.

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Yellowing of the ovary of cucumbers due to the characteristics of the variety

Modern productive varieties cucumbers, especially those that do not require pollination, differ large quantity ovaries, they are in each leaf sinus. The plant cannot “feed” such a number of fruits, so it gets rid of part, or all of the ovaries at once. To prevent this from happening, you should remove the extra ovaries, cutting them off before the flowers bloom. On average, 25-30 fruits can form and ripen on one cucumber bush.

Provided that only part of the ovaries turn yellow and dry, and the rest develop normally, nothing needs to be done, the plant itself knows how many fruits it can feed.

Yellowing of the ovary of cucumbers due to poor development

Sometimes on a young and weak plant that has not gained green mass, but with long central and lateral stems, cucumbers begin to tie. The plant cannot provide nutrients to the developing fruits, so it gets rid of the ovaries. Therefore, on young and unformed plants, the lashes must be partially cut off, and the flowers removed.

Yellowing of the ovary of cucumbers due to lack of pollination

If you prefer not only modern varieties, self-pollinating or parthenocarpic, but also traditional ones, the ovaries may dry out due to the lack of pollination. If fertilization of female flowers has not occurred, the ovary will not develop further, it will turn yellow and dry.

Yellowing of the ovary of cucumbers due to non-stepping

It is necessary to remove in time everything that tries to grow from the axils of three to five leaves, and pinch all the stepchildren that form above over the second leaf. Many gardeners are afraid of pinching, mistakenly believing that this procedure will reduce the yield. However, this must be done without fail and ruthlessly. The stepchildren that will grow from the sinuses are no longer in the main whip, but from the sinuses of the stepchildren, i.e. the so-called second-order shoots, you need to pinch after the first leaf.

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Yellowing of the ovary of cucumbers due to the large number of ovaries

It is also important to monitor the number of ovaries formed on one cucumber lash. Cucumbers develop very quickly, especially in a greenhouse, so if more than 25-30 ovaries appear on one lash, then all the flowers will not be able to form into full-fledged fruits. The plant simply does not have enough strength, as a result of which yellow and rotten ovaries will appear. To prevent this from happening, thin out cucumber lashes in a timely manner.

Yellowing of the ovary of cucumbers due to incorrect temperature conditions

When grown in open field cucumbers can react painfully to low temperature and in cold summers often do not bear fruit. You need to sound the alarm if the air temperature during the day is not higher than +16 ° C, as a result, the plants become weak, and some of the ovaries turn yellow. When the average night temperature drops below + 10-12 ° C, the vegetation stops, and the plant may suffer from various diseases, which provokes not only yellowing, but also drying of the leaves.

cucumbers that grow in greenhouse conditions, may be subject to another adverse factor - elevated temperature. On hot sunny days, the temperature in a heated greenhouse can reach +32 ° C, as a result of which cucumber pollen loses its prolific qualities. The ovaries are not pollinated, may fall off and turn yellow. You can solve the problem by regularly ventilating the greenhouse, which will allow you to adjust the temperature regime, as well as achieve optimal level humidity.

Yellowing of the ovary of cucumbers due to improper irrigation

Cucumbers turn yellow and ovaries fall off? This may be due to wrong mode watering, and the plant simply does not have enough water. Cucumbers in the open field must be watered at least three times a week, and their greenhouse counterparts - at least 4-5 times. Be sure to warm, sun-warmed water, otherwise the ovaries will fall off already from the sharp cold.

Timely provision of water will save you from another problem - the appearance of bitter cucumbers. Despite the fact that they are very useful, and help to relieve swelling and remove excess salts from the body, eating them is not very pleasant.

Yellowing of the ovary of cucumbers due to a lack of nitrogen

Our cucumbers are terribly eager for nitrogen. Don't feed them bread - give them nitrogen! That is why it is always recommended to plant them on a bed richly seasoned with fresh manure. But firstly, I often don’t have that manure at hand, and secondly, if I’m very zealous with manure, we will get fruits that are tasty, beautiful and with an excess of nitrates.

What to do? ... First, properly fill the bed before planting. But without fanaticism. Nevertheless, it is convenient to use purchased fertilizers (not necessarily mineral ones), for example, the same “Giant universal”. Half a glass under a bush should provide food for your (and our) cucumbers for a month and a half. But this is clearly not enough! Therefore, you can fill the garden bed with a half dose of complex mineral fertilizer with trace elements.

And of course - top dressing with a weak solution of fertilizers once a week! With this approach, your leaves will not turn yellow from a lack of nitrogen.

Yellowing of the ovary of cucumbers due to disease

Gray rot. Caused by bacteria, under cool conditions. All aerial parts are affected, brown areas appear and dense gray coating on cucumbers. The disease will spread quite quickly. The period from infection to the onset of symptoms is 3-5 days.

To cope with the disease, stop watering, ventilate the greenhouse well, lubricate the affected parts with a pasty mass prepared from Rovral or Euparen mult.

White rot or sclerotinia. A highly infectious dangerous disease that manifests itself in the form of white flakes with black dots on all parts of the plant. Mucus appears on them. soft spots. Above-ground parts wither and die within 3-5 days. Effective drugs on the this moment does not exist. When this disease of cucumbers appears in the greenhouse, it is closed for quarantine with the destruction of all plant residues and soil treatment with steam or its replacement.

Yellowing of the ovary of cucumbers due to pest damage

Melon aphid. It is not a problem to meet melon aphids on cucumbers. Small insects that destroy everything in their path are located from the bottom of the leaf, attack flowers, ovaries and cucumber fruits. During the period of its active activity and reproduction, the leaves fall from the plant, the flowers wither, the yield is sharply reduced due to the weakening of the mother plant. If wet weather is observed during the period of the aphid attack, the plants often cannot be saved at all.

Spider mite. The spider mite lives on the underside of the cucumber leaf and feeds on its greens. A small red-green sucking insect is very dangerous for cucumbers, especially in greenhouses. Damaging the plant and braiding the leaves with a small cobweb, the tick destroys entire beds, especially in hot weather when the number of individuals increases significantly.

Reasons why cucumber leaves get yellow, can be very diverse. Unfortunately, such a problem can affect both plants planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse, and - in open ground.

When is yellowing a normal variant?

If the individual lower leaves of the bush turn yellow, you should not worry. This is considered the norm, as the cucumber bed is often very dense, and sometimes the old leaves do not have enough light. Therefore, the leaf turns yellow and dies, but this does not affect the well-being of the plant itself.

Unsuitable agricultural conditions

Cucumbers are plants that require constant care. They love warmth and moisture, for normal growth they need nutrients. If these conditions are not met, then their leaves turn yellow.

temperature difference

Cucumber crops are hard on frosts, due to which their leaf color may change, and the bushes will stop growing and developing. Such a situation can occur, for example, at the end of May, when the seedlings are already in a greenhouse or under film shelters. If the air temperature drops sharply, the plant may turn yellow and stop growing.

Incorrectly selected watering mode

If the leaves of the plant appeared yellow spots, so watering was scarce. Cucumbers require abundant watering so that moisture saturates all the roots. If there was little water, the plant is forced to have roots near the surface, where they are easily damaged during loosening and weeding.

Excess water is no less harmful than underfilling. It leads to rotting of the roots and death of the bush.

Lack of nutrients in the soil

If a plant lacks nutrients in the soil (such as nitrogen, magnesium, or iron), it may experience yellowing of the leaves. In the future, the unfavorable composition of the soil may also affect the stems of cucumbers.

How to understand which substances are missing?

1. Nitrogen. If this is the problem, then at first the leaves become lighter, and over time they begin to turn yellow. Gradually, the color and lashes of cucumbers change, and the fruits grow ugly.
2. Magnesium. If the leaf of the plant turns yellow around the edges, this indicates a magnesium deficiency.
3. Iron. If the color of the leaf has changed to light purple, and green streaks are visible against this background, this is due to iron deficiency.

Excess ovaries

In addition to the above reasons, there is another one that can explain why cucumber leaves turn yellow in a greenhouse. If we grow cucumbers not in open ground, but in greenhouse conditions, they begin to grow rapidly.

If you planted a hybrid variety, then up to 150 ovaries can form on one cucumber. Often this situation weakens the plant, which is why it changes the color of the leaves to yellow.

Diseases and pests

If the plants are sick or attacked by pests, this is reflected in their leaves. This is especially true for fungal infections.

1. Fusarium. At first, the plant develops well, but during the appearance of the ovaries, the leaves of the cucumbers change their color. Over time, the ovaries dry and die.
2. Powdery mildew. Spots form on the tops, which eventually occupy the entire area of ​​the leaf, if you look closely, you can also notice a white or slightly reddish coating on the leaves. In the future, the affected leaves turn yellow and dry completely.
3. Peronosporosis or false powdery mildew. Yellow spots are visible on the leaves of the plant, which eventually acquire an oily structure, and then turn brown. On the underside, where spots are visible, plaque appears Brown. From this disease, a cucumber can die in a few days.
4. Root rot. It is she who often affects cucumbers in greenhouses. At first, the weakest plants begin to suffer from rot, but gradually the disease gets to stronger ones.
5. Melon aphid. If you turn the lower leaves of the plant over, you can see a colony of these insects that suck the juices from the cucumber.
6. Spider mite. He settles on the leaves, with inside, and weaves cobwebs. As a result of the defeat, the tops of the plant are covered with light or yellowish spots and gradually die off.

We figured out why the leaves of cucumbers that have already been planted in the ground turn yellow. But sometimes, yellowing affects the plant while still in seedling state.

Why do cucumber seedlings turn yellow?

The causes of yellowing of leaves in seedlings and adult plants are generally similar. If they are detected and eliminated in time, seedlings can be saved.

1. There are few micronutrients in the soil. Because of this, the plants become lethargic, grow poorly. They need nitrogen, potassium, calcium, manganese, sulfur.
2. You either watered the seedlings too often, or you forgot to do it.
3. Plants don't get enough sunlight. Place seedlings on bright window sills. If the weather is cloudy, illuminate it with lamps.

1. The seedlings do not have enough space, as you planted them in tight cassettes. If the roots of the cucumber rest against the walls of the pot, the plant cannot develop normally. Choose large pots for your seedlings and don't plant too early to prevent them from overgrowing.
2. The cucumbers are frozen. Seedlings are recommended to grow at a temperature of 20 to 25 degrees C °. If the air temperature is below 17 degrees C °, then the plant cannot fully obtain all the nutrients it needs. If you keep seedlings on the balcony, take them indoors at night so they don't freeze.
3. Diseases or pests are to blame. As in the case of mature plants, this may be spider mite or melon aphid, as well as diseases such as root rot, powdery mildew and fusarium (which we talked about in the previous section).

Why do cucumber ovaries turn yellow?

If the leaves of cucumbers turn yellow, you can intervene in time and save the plant and the future harvest. It is much more offensive when they turn yellow, dry, and then the ovaries and small cucumbers fall off.

What can cause the ovaries to fall off?

1. Lack of lighting. If you plant cucumbers too thickly, upper leaves bushes will be the penetration of sunlight. Remember that modern hybrid varieties often overgrow in greenhouses.
2. Temperature fluctuations. Cucumbers must be protected from overheating and a sharp jump in temperature. If it was very hot during the day and cold at night, the plant may begin to get rid of the ovaries.
3. Lack of nutrition. If cucumbers do not receive the nutrients they need (nitrogen and potassium), this is also reflected in the ovaries: they change color and fall off.
4. There are too many ovaries on the bush. The plant spends a lot of energy on the ovaries, so it does not have enough strength to grow fruits from them - large cucumbers. Excess must be removed before the flowers have blossomed.
5. Wrong watering. If you use ice water for irrigation, then most of the ovaries will fall off. Remember that the water must first be defended in order for it to heat up.
6. The bees did not have time to pollinate the cucumbers. This happens in a rainy summer or at a time when there is a strong heat. The flowers of the plant remain unpollinated, so they die.

How to prevent yellowing of cucumbers?

How to help cucumbers? What to do so that their leaves do not turn yellow? If you properly care for plants, the appearance yellow leaves on cucumbers can be prevented.

1. Cover plants during frost. We cannot influence the weather, but it is not difficult to protect already planted cucumbers from frost. Cover them with bubble wrap or lutrasil. If this does not help, put bottles in the greenhouse, after pouring hot water into them.
2. Don't forget to water. For watering, use for it only warm water. On hot days, water the cucumbers every day. If the weather is moderate - at least 2 times a week.
3. Fertilize your plants. If the soil lacks certain nutrients, use fertilizers. When you do spring or autumn digging, add rotted manure to the soil (2-3 buckets - per square meter). But do not overdo it, too much fertilizer also often leads to the fact that the leaves turn yellow.
4. Remember crop rotation. Cucumbers can be grown in the same place every 4 years. Then fungi and harmful microorganisms will not accumulate in the soil. Also, to protect against diseases, a constant change of varieties is useful.
5. Do not plant cucumbers too densely, this applies to both planting in the greenhouse and in the open field. If these are parthenocarpic hybrids - plant 1 or 2 bushes per square meter, and varieties pollinated by bees - 2-3 pieces per square.
6. Carry out preventive spraying from pests.
7. Make sure that the cucumbers are not overloaded with ovaries. On one cucumber there should be no more than 20-25 ovaries, it is better to remove the rest.
8. Do not forget about regular pinching, which helps to properly form a bush.

If defend cucumber seedlings and adult plants from diseases and pests, as well as arrange for them proper care, then such a problem as yellowing of the tops and ovaries of cucumbers will bypass your beds.

Video: causes of yellowing cucumber leaves and methods of treatment

Why do cucumber leaves turn yellow? What to do? With such questions, gardeners turn to search engines when the problem is already clearly visible. But wait raise a panic. After all, often everything is fixable, and cucumbers can still be saved.

The only difficulty is the exact diagnosis of why the leaves turn yellow. Sometimes it's hard to define real reason. Well, you will have to act by the method of elimination and periodically turn on your head. Then everything will work for sure.

Below we will consider the most common options for changing pigmentation and tell you what to do in such a situation.

Wrong watering

Since childhood, many people know that cucumbers are very fond of water. So they pour it to the point of stupor and how much it is not a pity. But such an elementary procedure as watering should be carried out in accordance with all the rules.

The plant is thermophilic. In the regions of origin of cucumbers, cold rains are rare. Mostly warm water pours from the sky. So our cucumbers need to be watered with warm water. And then some will lower the pump into the well and let's pump ice streams onto the beds. Try to stand under such a shower yourself. Hardly like it.

So cucumbers turn off small feeding roots so as not to catch a cold. And the leaves and fruits require water. It turns out that even being in an icy slurry of soil and water, the plants dry. The leaves will turn yellow with such care quickly.

Another situation. Water for irrigation is warm, but not enough. Instead of quality drinking 3 times a week, the owners sprinkle a little every day from a watering can. The topsoil is always wet. And at a depth of 8-12 cm, where the bulk of the roots are located, there is dryness. It turns out dried cucumbers again.

Or the other extreme. Watering cucumbers warm water, often and a lot. Well, it would seem, what else do you need? Air access to the roots is necessary. They cannot work constantly for wear and tear, they also need to be periodically ventilated. But what if the "legs" float in a warm swamp?

All sorts of sores of the root system begin, insidious rot attacks. The roots are gradually dying off. The leaves turn yellow, the owners think that the plants do not have enough water, and pour even more. The problem is getting worse.

What to do? Start by watering properly. No one will tell you the exact amount of water per plant or frequency. And do not listen to all these "25 liters of water per bush with each watering." How can advisers know what the weather or climate is like in your area? On what type of soil and under what conditions your cucumbers grow - they also do not know.

The best guide is your garden. They came, pushed the tops apart, looked. If it is not clear, then you can pick up the earth. Humid? Stop watering! Dry? So, it's time to give the cucumbers a drink. That's all science.

Sunburn

Continuing the theme of water, let's talk about the great delusion. Absolutely all sources categorically prohibit watering cucumbers in the heat from above. Allegedly, sprinkling provokes sunburn and massive yellowing of the leaves.

Sorry, but the yellowing of the leaves provokes your negligence and unwillingness to work with your brains. Look at your watch pickles at 14. What does it look like? That's right, on sagging rags. This sun evaporates the remaining moisture from them, and then dries to the state of straw. Hence the burn.

What to do? Save! Urgently help cucumber plantings to endure solar mockery! Right on top of the leaves by sprinkling, you need to refresh the plantings. This reduces the temperature of the sheet, saturates it with liquid and increases the humidity of the air around.

And do not talk about drops-lenses. If the flaps are saturated with water and their temperature is low, then your terrible lenses need a lot of effort to damage the surface of the sheet. By the way, after the rain, the sun often fries too. How many plants blazing from lenses have you seen in your life?

Pests

These little enemies suck out all the nutritious juices from the leaves of cucumbers, gnaw root system, eat the stems. As a result, the plant becomes weak, a lack of nutrition appears, the leaves turn yellow.

Additional feeding will not give anything. First you need to identify the insidious guests, then get rid of them, and only after all help the cucumbers recover.

What to do? Each type of pest needs its own method of control. No doubt, you can heartily hit them with a decent dose of insecticide. But how then to eat cucumbers? After all, they quickly ripen, they will not have time to get rid of the poison for sure.

Exit 3, both harmless to humans and animals:

1. Use all kinds of decoctions and infusions of strong-smelling natural ingredients. These are onion peel, tansy, mint, valerian, marigolds, garlic peel. You just need to periodically spray the affected cucumber leaves diluted liquid. It is advisable to thoroughly wet the underside of the leaves. It is there that the largest concentration of uninvited guests is observed.
2. Traps. Possibly with poisonous bait. Pests will eat up and safely throw back their paws, and cucumbers definitely don’t bite. If you don’t want to use poison, then you simply collect insects in traps and give them to your neighbors or your chickens. Remove from site and destroy. Bury very deep into the ground. Full of ways.
3. A novelty in the market of insecticides. With the prefix bio. Can be used to get rid of all kinds harmful insects. It is a conglomerate of spores of a fungus and a predatory nematode. A small predator attacks pests and infects them with a fungus. That, in turn, quickly grows in the internal organs of the insect and kills it. Everything about everything takes from 4 hours to a day.

The only disadvantage of option 3 is strict adherence to the instructions. It clearly states the conditions and time of storage of the drug, as well as the temperature range in which the bioinsecticide works most effectively.

Cold

The banal reason is temperature fluctuations during the day. For example, during the day it is inferno, and at night it is already cold. This usually happens in August. The roots of cucumbers cease to function normally in the cooled earth. And overgrown tops and pouring fruits require nutrition in the usual dose. What is left for the plant? That's right, take a supply of nutrients from the leaves. The stalks begin to turn yellow, then dry up and die.

Enhanced feeding will not bring the desired result. No matter how much nutrition is introduced into the soil, the cucumber is not able to absorb it.

What to do? Make foliar top dressing, preferably with nitrogen, and grow new roots. This is done very simply. First, almost all the lashes are added dropwise to a length of up to 30 cm. It is necessary to sprinkle the whole thing with moist, loose soil. It is recommended for the first time to water the place of digging with a solution of a root formation stimulator. This will allow the cucumber to grow new roots faster, which will help the bush absorb the proper amount of nutrition.

And on the leaves it will be necessary to carry out 2 top dressings, with an interval of 5-7 days. For this, 10 liters pure water take Matchbox ordinary urea (without top) or 2 tbsp. l. pharmaceutical solution of ammonia. The resulting liquid is thoroughly mixed and the planting of cucumbers is sprayed from the heart.

Lack of nutrition

By the way, about fertilizers. Their lack can also cause yellowing of cucumber leaves. Some gardeners are categorically against the use of chemistry on their personal plot. Of course, biological liquid green manure- a good thing. Cucumbers take it with a bang. But for normal growth and development, the menu must be complete.

Agree, it’s hard to constantly eat only one nitrogen. Other trace elements are also needed. For example, potassium, manganese, iron, boron, phosphorus, molybdenum, zinc. In small quantities, but still, a cucumber cannot exist normally without them. And a person will not be able to provide natural top dressing right amount nutrition. And on one nitrogen from the greenery, the plants will be loose, watery and the fruits will grow tasteless. The leaves will first be lush, green, but not for long. Then they quickly lose their attractiveness and turn yellow.

What to do? Feed. I'm going to the store. We choose any complex mineral fertilizer. We carefully read the content of trace elements. We choose where there is less nitrogen and more other substances. We buy, we carry home. There, once again, carefully read the instructions for use, especially the manufacturer's recommendations. We strictly follow all requirements.

We intentionally do not give here the dosage and frequency of application of mineral fertilizers. Because each complex of microelements has its own, and it is impossible to guarantee something remotely. But believe me, your cucumbers will respond to you with gratitude, a large harvest and beautiful green leaves.

Diseases

This is the most common cause yellowing of cucumber leaves. None of the above species causes such harm as spores of pathogenic fungi and pathogenic bacteria. They lie in wait for your plants at every step and stage of development.

It all starts with the infected planting material and damaged soil. Then insect pests bring various viruses on their paws. Cool, damp weather promotes fungal growth. In a greenhouse or greenhouse, bacteria from last year may remain on supports and walls. The list of all dangers can be long. To describe the method of dealing with each disease - the book is not enough.

Before sowing seeds in the ground or seedlings, they must be disinfected. Nothing better than a strong hot solution of potassium permanganate has yet been invented. Planting soil is cleaned of bacteria by deep freezing or calcination in the oven.

In a greenhouse (greenhouse) should be changed every year at least upper layer soil on a new one. If it is impossible to do this, you should definitely shed the earth with potassium permanganate or a solution of phytosporin. Arcs, frames, supports, wall and ceiling material must be treated with a fungicide solution or at least fumigated with a sulfuric smoke bomb. Tobacco works well too.

The best protection against disease and fungal rot is prevention:

1. Strict observance of crop rotation. Many neglect this, but in vain. Bacteria tend to accumulate in the soil. And the constant, from year to year, planting melons in one place is an indirect reason for the yellowing of the leaves.
2. Periodically inspect cucumbers for suspicious spots or stripes. And then most gardeners begin to beat the drums only when the cucumbers signal the mass yellowness of the burdocks.
3. Regular preventive spraying of bushes with any fungicide of biological origin. Modern industry offers a great variety of them. We will not name here, so as not to advertise, but if you wish, you can find both the name and instructions.

By the way, the mechanism of action of these biological products is very simple. Each of them is a concentration of beneficial microorganisms and fungal spores. When sprayed on the surface of the plant, it forms protective film of these little helpers. The film acts for some time as a protective barrier against viruses, pathogenic fungi and pathogenic bacteria. It is updated periodically.

Biofungicides are absolutely harmless to people, animals and insects. You don't even need gloves to use them. And the benefits are invaluable.

If, nevertheless, they missed it and the disease has already begun its victorious march, then get rid of the sick cucumber as soon as possible or put it in quarantine. It is possible that the rest of the bushes have not yet had time to become infected. But it's better not to risk it.

The affected plant must be uprooted, taken out of the site and burned. The soil under it should be immediately disinfected. Such a measure will allow you to sleep peacefully for sure.

After reading our article, you will no longer worry about the question of why cucumber leaves turn yellow. What to do? - you know too. Take a closer look at your plants and good harvests.

Video: what to do so that the leaves of cucumbers do not turn yellow

Today I would like to dwell on the problem of yellowing of small cucumbers in greenhouse plants. It is also found in our greenhouse, although it is of a single nature.

There may be several serious reasons behind yellowing and subsequent cessation of ovary development:

1. Non-observance of crop rotation. It would seem that it sounds trite. But if the beds with the same crops on the site can be interchanged, then in a fixed greenhouse - you need to change the topsoil every time - and this is not only costly, but also troublesome. To some extent, planting green manure at the end of the next season will help reduce the negative effect of non-compliance with crop rotation. Mustard is very good in this regard - it is not afraid of autumn frosts, it kills pathogens in the surface layer of the earth, structures the soil, and acts as an excellent green fertilizer.
2. Massive yellowing of the ovary often indicates the scarcity of the soil. In autumn, fill the soil with humus or compost with mandatory application wood ash.
3. Yellowing of small cucumbers may indicate flaws in agricultural technology. Due to circumstances, each of us is forced to work and bear a lot of various family responsibilities. From here, shortcomings may arise in the care - they missed the next watering, forgot or could not open the greenhouse in the heat or close it in the cold, they did not loosen the soil and weed the weeds in time. It would seem nonsense, which means a lot. greenhouse cucumbers need to be watered more often than ground (up to 5 times a week). In cold weather, the procedure is preferably performed in the morning, and in hot weather - in the evening.
4. A long cold snap leads to yellowing of cucumbers, when the temperature drops to + 10 ... + 15 C. As a result, plants absorb nutrients from the soil much worse, and they cease to be evenly distributed to all ovaries. In such a situation, spraying with complex mineral fertilizers by leaves.
5. A common cause of yellowing of the ovary is excessive planting density. As a result, the movement of air between plants is disturbed, the temperature and moisture stagnation increase, and the level of illumination decreases. In such close quarters, it is more likely that fungal and viral infections(they like damp, stagnant air).
6. Almost all modern hybrids that can be found on sale are characterized by increased productivity. On some individual bushes, from 100 to 150 ovaries can form per season. It is clear that no top dressing will allow all of them to finally form into adult cucumbers. Therefore, on such plants, it is better to immediately remove excess flowers so that they do not divert the forces of the plant (leave no more than 20 ovaries at a time).
7. In some cases, the appearance of small yellow cucumbers- this is the result of improper feeding, as a result of which the emphasis was on some micro and macro elements, while others, on the contrary, practically do not come. Periodic application of wood ash will help to resolve the situation. In addition to potassium, its composition contains many elements useful for cucumbers.
8. If you have planted bee-pollinated varieties in the greenhouse (parthenocarpic hybrids also sometimes “strange”), then be sure to monitor pollination. Regularly open doors and windows, do not be lazy to carry out pollination manually.

We have a noticeable yellowing of Zelentsy occurred in 2017, when the weather brought a lot of surprises. Nevertheless, the overall harvest turned out to be successful.

There are several reasons for the yellowing and drying of greens.

Reason one: Plants are too densely planted.

They simply do not have enough food area, so they cannot feed all their numerous offspring. In particular, for Zyatek cucumbers, the recommended distance between adjacent plants is 50 cm, which means planting them closer, even when vertical way cultivation is not necessary. For each specific variety or hybrid, this information is indicated in the description on the bag.

Reason two: plants do not form.

Many novice growers allow cucumbers to grow arbitrarily, it seems to them that by pinching certain lashes, the yield will decrease. As a result, thickets of intertwined vines with big leaves, through which the sunlight breaks through with difficulty. In such conditions, not some of the greens, but almost all, can dry out. The formation of cucumbers is simple: from the sinuses of the lower 3-5 leaves, you need to pluck the stepchildren completely.

The upstream shoots should be pinched off after the second leaf. Stepsons of the second order, which will form from the axils of the leaves of the secondary lash, should remove the growth point after the formation of the first leaf. The ovaries of cucumbers turn yellow for one of the reasons listed.

Reason three: wrong feeds.

If, at first, cucumbers, as a rule, are fed with fermented manure, i.e. predominantly nitrogen, then with the onset of fruiting, the needs of plants change, they already require both potassium and phosphorus. Therefore, superphosphate and ash must be added to infusions of grass or mullein. Can be used complex fertilizer, for example, "Kemiru" or similar.

Reason four: fruits that have grown to the size declared by the manufacturer are not removed in a timely manner.

Overgrown fruits (or one fruit) greatly delays the development of other ovaries. For bunch cucumbers, the presence of overgrowth, even an extra 2 hours on the lash, affects the greens. Something has changed in the growing conditions, so the cucumber fruits that have begun to grow have partially turned yellow.

Reason five: maybe a pollinator is needed.

Modern hybrids and varieties are predominantly parthenocarpic, not requiring pollinators. To bee-pollinated varieties and hybrids, you need to plant 1 or several (depending on the size of the greenhouse) pollinator plants, i.e. cucumbers of other varieties having and male flowers. In the latter case, care must be taken to attract pollinating insects.

A little about care

The soil on which bunch cucumbers grow must be fertilized, loose and always moist. These plants need to be fed weekly, but an excess of nitrogen can lead to a decrease in the number of ovaries. With unfavorable weather conditions(for example, prolonged cloudy weather, i.e. lack of sunlight, or a sharp cold snap), it is advisable to spray cucumbers with Epin-Extra or Zircon. To speed up the filling of greens in the greenhouse, you can install a container with fermenting manure or grass. "Aroma", of course, will be specific, but eye-catching carbon dioxide, necessary for plants for photosynthesis, greatly increase the fruit growth rate. Subject to agricultural technology, the probability of getting a decent crop of cucumbers is very high.

And finally:

All plants bloom "with a margin", which means they form more ovaries than they can feed, so the drying out of some part is a normal phenomenon. We hope that our explanations will be useful, and you will be able to save the maximum amount of greens in each bunch.

In this video, we have revealed the topic of yellowing of the ovaries, having carefully analyzed the probable causes of this phenomenon and, of course, we offer ways to eliminate them: