Profitable flower business in greenhouse conditions. Growing Chrysanthemums in a Greenhouse: Tips for Beginners

Alexandra Fedechkina, agronomist

Chrysanthemum is ideal for cutting. Flowers of various colors, beautiful foliage on strong tall stems, long-term preservation of freshness in a vase, high decorativeness, coupled with late flowering - components of the constant and widespread popularity of chrysanthemum in Russia.

Indoor cut chrysanthemum is one of the main flower crops of the autumn-winter period: it blooms from August to December, depending on the variety. You need to start growing it in May.

Today in the world there are several tens of thousands of varieties of garden chrysanthemums. Their classification is quite complicated, but in a simplified way they can be divided into large-flowered (Indian) with an inflorescence diameter of more than 10 cm and small-flowered (Korean) with an inflorescence diameter of less than 10 cm.

Indian chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum x indicum L.) are grown mainly indoors throughout the world, they are excellent for cutting. Early varieties of Indian chrysanthemums, already blooming in pots, can be displayed in the garden.

An important feature of the variety is the flowering period. Early varieties are considered to bloom from August to mid-October, medium - at the end of October - November, late - in December.

Growing methods

The methods of growing chrysanthemum grandiflora are quite diverse, but in general they all come down to two main technologies: traditional and controlled culture.

The easiest and most common method among flower growers is growing early varieties large-flowered chrysanthemum in crop rotation with other flowers and vegetables in the field. Rooted cuttings are planted immediately in a permanent place in open ground and left in it for flowering and cutting. In case of severe autumn frosts, a plastic film is pulled over a temporary portable frame.

Chrysanthemum varieties of medium and late flowering have a longer growing season, so you can only get a high-quality cut in a greenhouse. Rooted cuttings are planted immediately in a permanent place, and in September the greenhouses are covered with plastic wrap.

You can do otherwise: grow rooted cuttings in the field until the budding phase begins, and then dig up the plants and transplant them into the greenhouse. True, this method is quite laborious.

Growing chrysanthemum traditional technology, to obtain products in early dates(August - September) use small film greenhouses, without winter heating. If you grow it later (October - December), or all year round(managed crop technology), it is better to use industrial heated greenhouses.

planting material

It is usually purchased in the form of rooted cuttings. You can also buy unrooted cuttings and grow them in your greenhouse.

The average price of a rooted cutting is 45 rubles per piece, an unrooted cutting is 13-15 rubles; finished products cut - 65-80 rubles / piece. for small-flowered and 80-160 rubles. for the large-flowered chrysanthemum.

The main terms of delivery of rooted cuttings from foreign manufacturers- early May - mid-July, with the readiness of plants for sale in autumn period.

traditional technology

Landing

Rooted cuttings are supplied in small peat cups, carefully packaged in damp moss and polyethylene (in this form, they easily tolerate shipment), or in a cassette for 104 cells (100 plants are taken into account).

They are planted in a pot with light, moderate fertile soil or immediately into the open ground (they are guided by the delivery time of the cuttings) and watered. Rooted cuttings are planted without deepening. Air and substrate temperature - 14...16°С.

Rooted cuttings of early varieties of large-flowered chrysanthemum are planted in open ground after May 15. After 10-15 days, varieties of the average flowering period are planted. For medium-late varieties, the time for planting cuttings in open ground is the beginning of June. If you plan to get a cut of chrysanthemum flowers in November - December, then the optimal time for planting rooted cuttings in a greenhouse is mid-July - early August.

Unrooted cuttings are planted in boxes with sand or nutrient soil, watered well. You can also root them in perlite on racks, while the air temperature should be 20 ... 22 ° C, humidity - 80%. The first roots appear on the 7-10th day. Then, after 14-18 days, rooted cuttings are planted in cassettes or pots.

Multi-stemmed chrysanthemums are planted according to the scheme 20x30 or 30x30 cm (11 plants/m²), and single-stem chrysanthemums according to the scheme 15x15 cm (44 plants/m²). Bed width - 100-120 cm.

Care, feeding, watering

Large-flowered chrysanthemum is demanding on soil fertility and is very responsive to regular root top dressing. In the first period of growth, when there is an active increase in the vegetative mass, the plant really needs a lot of nitrogen and potassium.

The first top dressing is carried out 15-20 days after planting, and then every 2 weeks: ammonium nitrate (10-15 g / m²). From the moment the bud appears, the chrysanthemum's need for phosphorus increases. In the open field, 2-3 top dressings are given per season, in the greenhouse - up to 4-5, but the concentration of the nutrient solution is reduced. From the moment the buds are formed until the cutting itself, they switch to phosphorus-potassium nutrition.

It is most convenient to work with easily soluble mineral fertilizers, such as crystallin, solute, calcium nitrate, Kemira-universal, etc.

However, be careful, especially with nitrogen fertilization - its excess in the soil causes burns and blackening of the leaves, and also leads to a decrease in immunity, provokes the appearance and rapid reproduction of aphids on overfed plants that are pampered and unable to resist. Top dressing of chrysanthemums is carried out simultaneously with watering or immediately after it. All top dressing is stopped during the period of staining the buds!

The first 5-7 days after planting rooted cuttings, plants require daily watering. Then, depending on the weather, the frequency of watering is reduced, moistening the earth less often, but more abundantly. And yet, in hot weather, during the period of intensive growth and leaf formation, plants have to be watered at least 2-3 times a week.

Growing features

Moderate temperatures are favorable for chrysanthemums. Cuttings take root at a temperature not lower than 16...18°C, shoot growth begins at 2...6°C, and bud formation - at 11...12°C. In clear weather, the temperature should not exceed 25 ... 30 ° C, and in cloudy weather - 25 ° C. Chrysanthemums tolerate short-term cooling (down to -3°C), but the buds die already at 0°C. Chrysanthemums are short day plants. IN middle lane the period when the night is longer than the day lasts from early September to mid-March; This is the time when Chryanthemums bloom. For growth in height and formation of leaves, chrysanthemums need a long (14-18 hours) daylight hours. In the middle lane, it begins in April and continues until the end of August. For successful cultivation chisanthemums, the intensity and spectral composition of light are also important. (During the period of stem growth and leaf formation, the light intensity should be 6.5-8.0 thousand lux, early and medium varieties are especially demanding on this.) These parameters significantly affect the structure of the bush, leaves, inflorescences, roots. So, in favorable years in terms of illumination, there are more reed flowers in the inflorescence, and in unfavorable years (with heavy cloudiness in July - September), the number of tubular flowers increases, i.e. fluffiness is reduced.

The water requirement of chrysanthemums varies by different stages. Cuttings need high humidity of the substrate and air (90–95%). During intensive growth, when leaves are forming, plants also need more water. In the budding phase, the need for water is reduced by 10–20%. To prolong flowering, chrysanthemums are kept in drier soil than during growth and budding. For successful growth and flowering, large-flowered chrysanthemums need: a sunny location, excellent drainage, no competition with the roots of other plants, free air circulation, and complete darkness at night (if the latter is not provided, they will not bloom).

Formation of chrysanthemum large-flowered

It is important to be able to form a chrysanthemum bush and choose the best bud for each variety. The productivity of the variety, the number of future peduncles on the bush, as well as the quality and diameter of the flower depend on the correct and timely implementation of this procedure.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are usually grown in 1 stem and 3 stems with 1 inflorescence on each of them (but in this case the flower will be smaller).

It is necessary to pinch in time, which is mandatory, otherwise the primary bud will give an inferior flower. The first - after the rooted cuttings take root in a new place. As soon as the young chrysanthemum releases the 6-8th leaf, cut off or pinch off the crown, then the plant will release several new shoots. Of these, 2-3 of the strongest are left, and the rest are removed.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are pinched taking into account flowering buds. At the same time, you need to know that in chrysanthemums, each shoot ends with an inflorescence (bud) and in the natural cycle of one growing season there can be up to four orders of shoots and inflorescences.

The term of the last pinching depends on the duration of the period of development of inflorescences. For all chrysanthemums, the period from pinching the shoot to laying the buds is approximately the same - 30-40 days, and the duration of development of the inflorescence laid at the point of growth before flowering is different for different varieties: in the early - 7-8 weeks, in the middle - 10-12, in the late - 12-14.

Plants periodically stepchild, removing unwanted shoots - and only 1 full-fledged (commodity) inflorescence is formed on each trunk.

Reinforcement mesh

In chrysanthemum, the branching of the bush begins in its lower part. By mid-July, the side stems are growing quite well - and the plant needs support. It is more profitable to buy a special synthetic flower or vegetable net with a mesh size of about 15 cm, which is pulled over stakes. As the bushes grow, it is easy to lift it higher. With the help of a mesh, the stems stand upright, very firmly and do not lie down even in bad weather, and the flower heads do not touch each other, and the delicate flower petals are not damaged.

Diseases and pests

Chrysanthemums can be affected by downy mildew and gray mold. Against these diseases, spraying is carried out with a fast preparation (2 ml per 10 l of water, solution consumption of 1 liter per 10 m²) or topaz (4 ml per 10 l of water, solution consumption of 1 liter per 10 m²).

The nematode is especially dangerous for chrysanthemums; a sign of damage is the blackening of the lower leaves. Sick plants are removed and burned. Subsequently, chrysanthemums cannot be planted at this place for several years.

Slugs, aphids, earwigs and mining flies harm chrysanthemums. Granules of metaldehyde preparation (30 g per 10 m²) are scattered against slugs. Against aphids, moths and earwigs, a spark preparation is used (1 tablet per 10 liters of water, solution consumption 1 liter per 10 m²).

Cutting and storage

Chrysanthemums are cut at the beginning of flowering, when the inflorescences have blossomed well, but the corollas of the peripheral flowers have not yet sagged. Do it early in the morning or late in the evening, or in cloudy weather, because. at this time, the plant contains the maximum supply of moisture and nutrients accumulated during the day. For better preservation during transportation, the bases of the stems are split and immersed in water for 10-12 hours (for 1/2 length) before being sold. The lower leaves are removed.

The cut is placed freely in the water. The room must be dry, with good ventilation, the temperature of flower storage is 6...8°С. Cut chrysanthemum can be stored for 2-3 weeks without changing the quality of the flower.

Magazine "Real Owner" No. 05 2013

Chrysanthemum is a bright addition to autumn, reminding a person of the departed warmth and exuberant colors of summer. Such a beautiful flower is able to delight the eye in gloomy autumn weather, and cause a sunny smile.

Growing chrysanthemums in a greenhouse is a pleasure, as an exciting hobby, or a profitable business. How to do this, the article will tell you.

Before you start growing flowers, you should get acquainted with their species recommended for growing in greenhouses.

There are approximately 150 species of chrysanthemums in the world, and through the efforts of breeders, their variety of varieties is increasing every year. Growing chrysanthemums in greenhouses has some advantages.

In this case:

• Optimum values ​​of temperature and humidity of air are provided.
• You can achieve a longer flowering time.
• Plants are protected from natural pests.
• It is possible to organize conditions for growing rare varieties of chrysanthemums.

Beginning gardeners, in order to obtain the maximum result, should give preference to zoned varieties that are unpretentious in care, such as:

• Indian chrysanthemums. They are distinguished by large single buds, with a diameter of up to 18 cm, and a height of up to 80 cm.
• Korean chrysanthemums. Unpretentious in care, small diameter, blooming profusely in the form of a bush up to 70 cm high.

Their main types are presented in the table:

Type of chrysanthemums	Peculiarities
Indian variety of chrysanthemums
	They have hemispherical buds, up to 15 cm in diameter, wine-red and purple.
	Beautiful flowers with shades: Lilac pink. Cream. Golden yellow. They can be completely white. The buds are flat with a diameter of about 14 cm.
	Chrysanthemums with white rather large buds having a hemispherical shape.
	They have spider-shaped buds, in diameter they can reach up to 17 cm.
	Huge flat buds with a lilac tint, up to 22 cm in diameter.
Small-colored Korean chrysanthemums
	These are compact bushes, up to 50 cm tall, blooming profusely with bright pink flowers, appearance resemble the shape of a camomile.
	They have bright yellow terry buds.
	Small buds of terracotta or lilac-pink color, up to 10 cm in diameter.
	White semi-double buds, up to 5 cm in diameter.
	red semi-double buds, with a diameter of up to 8 cm.

The greenhouse can be purchased ready-made (see), or assembled with your own hands. How to do this, the video will tell.

A good option would be a greenhouse in the attic. In this case, it is enough to get acquainted with how to plant chrysanthemums in pots, make coasters for them and purchase cuttings.

For growing chrysanthemums in a greenhouse, it is necessary to provide:

• Abundant watering of plants. It is best if it is a system drip irrigation. When watering, ventilation in the greenhouse should increase.
• The humidity level in the room should be 70-75%. When the first buds appear, the humidity drops to 60-65%.
• To organize the cultivation of chrysanthemums in a greenhouse as a business, it is necessary to equip artificial lighting.

Plant propagation options

How to propagate chrysanthemums:

• Seeds.

• cuttings.

• The division of the bush.

When growing chrysanthemums from seeds, it is not always possible to get the expected result.

There are two ways to get a full-fledged plant:

• Seeds are sown in spring, directly in open ground, when there is no threat of late frosts. Wherein:

1. In the garden, holes are made in increments of 20 cm.
2. Spilled with warm water.
3. 2-3 seeds fall into such a slurry.
4. Sprinkled with earth.
5. Cover with foil until shoots appear.
6. The first sprouts are watered by any liquid fertilizer.
7. The soil is carefully loosened. The film is removed.
8. When seedling growth reaches 10 cm, one strongest shoot is left, the rest are removed.

With this method of growing chrysanthemums will bloom no earlier than autumn.

• Seedlings are grown from seeds. For this:

1. Shallow boxes are purchased.
2. A drainage system of expanded clay is laid at the bottom. You can use a container with a slatted bottom.
3. A small layer of soil or ready-made soil is poured.
4. The seeds are laid out on top, slightly pressed to the ground, if the varieties are perennial, sprinkled thin layer annual varieties.
5. Sprayed with warm water.
6. Cover with foil until sprouts appear.
7. After 14 or 17 days shoots should appear.
8. The film cannot be removed immediately. Plants open gradually: on the first day, no more than an hour, so that the plants "breathe the air", then the airing time increases every day.
9. Seedlings cut through at the stage of 3-4 leaves. Very elongated and weak plants are removed.
10. It is advisable to lower the temperature in the room to 16 - 18 ° C and arrange the backlight with an LED lamp.
11. Be sure to feed the plants with mineral fertilizers.

Tip: When growing seedlings, it is necessary to ensure its abundant watering. It should be borne in mind that when growing chrysanthemums from seeds, the resulting species may differ greatly from the parental form.

Planting cuttings

These are unpretentious and non-capricious flowers, but several important rules are required to grow them in a greenhouse.

The process technology includes the following steps:

• The soil is being prepared. Chrysanthemum cultivation can be done in garden soil from a small amount sand and humus. In addition, added per 1 m³:

1. Lime - 5 kg.
2. Superphosphate - 3 kg.
3. Potassium sulfate - 2 kg.
4. Calcium nitrate - 2 kg.

Tip: You can not take soil that has high acidity.

• Cuttings are planted:

1. The process is performed in the evening or early in the morning.
2. Between the cuttings, the distance is chosen 30-40 cm.
3. It is not recommended to deepen the roots too much.

1. When growing flowers in the summer, shading should be created under black polyethylene to avoid a lot of sunlight.
2. IN winter period artificial light sources should be used.
3. In the greenhouse, the temperature should be at least 16 ° C.
4. With the advent of the first buds, daylight hours must be reduced to 10 hours, and the temperature must be maintained up to 10 ° C.
5. You can grow flowers in a greenhouse all year round.
6. After planting the cuttings, after four months the flowers are ready for cutting.

Tip: Before planting chrysanthemums in a greenhouse in the fall, you should carefully prepare the soil and destroy all pests.

Bouquet seedlings

There is nothing complicated when growing chrysanthemums from a presented bouquet of flowers.

The instruction is as follows:

• The flowers you like are selected from the bouquet.
• The buds and leaves are removed.
• The tops are cut from the stems and the stems are placed in water.
• When roots appear on the cuttings, they are planted.
• To plant a plant in a pot, its diameter is chosen at least 28 cm. Holes are made at the bottom of the container to let excess water out.
• Planting chrysanthemums in pots must be done in a neutral substrate.
• To prevent root rotting, high-quality drainage from expanded clay or brick chips should be provided.
• Before planting flowers, the soil must be watered abundantly.

Such simple rules will allow you to grow a chrysanthemum from a previously cut flower and prolong the life of a beautiful, but withered bouquet.

plant care

Caring for any plants is, first of all, the organization of proper watering. For this:

• Watering chrysanthemums should be plentiful. These are moisture-loving plants. Water for flowers is better to take soft. The ideal option is rain or melt water.

You can soften the liquid by adding 3 grams of ash per 1 liter.

• It is not allowed to get water on the leaves.
• Dehydration of the soil slows down its loosening.

Tip: To increase the duration of flowering of adult plants, watering should be reduced to a minimum.

Light and temperature in the greenhouse

Chrysanthemums need a lot of light and a moderate temperature. Rooted cuttings develop well at a temperature of at least 18 ° C. At the beginning of the formation of buds, the temperature in the greenhouse drops to 12 ° C. Mature plants withstand cooling down to (-3 ° C). But the buds can die.

The light regime is regulated depending on the period of development of chrysanthemums:

• For growth, cuttings need a long daylight hours, up to 18 hours. When grown in winter, it is important for chrysanthemums to provide intense lighting and spectral composition.
• After the appearance of the first buds, the day is shortened to 10 hours. In summer, black film is used for this.
• Large-diameter chrysanthemum flowers need complete darkness at night, otherwise they will not bloom.
• For correct formation shoots, the night temperature should be 16 - 20 ° C.

Tip: Do not allow dew to appear on the leaves. This will lead to plant disease.

Top dressing of chrysanthemums

These colors require mineral fertilizers. For this:

• At the first stage, the nitrogen fertilizers. They help to strengthen the root system and increase green mass.
• During the period of development and formation of buds, flower shoots, potassium top dressing is necessary.
• Phosphorus fertilizers provide long and lush flowering.
• Every seven to ten days, the plants are fed with infusion of chicken manure or mullein at the rate of 1 liter per plant. Preparation of the composition:

1. Take a bucket of chicken manure or two mullein.
2. Filled with water.
3. Three days insist.
4. A liter of infusion is diluted with ten liters of water.
5. Fertilizers are applied strictly under the root. In this case, the earth must be moist.

Tip: It is impossible for the solution to fall on the leaves and flowers. This will provoke their burn, and an excess of fertilizer causes oppression of chrysanthemums.

Plant diseases. Their prevention and treatment

Chrysanthemum is a fairly hardy plant, has resistance to pests. Diseases are the result of improper care.

Main mistakes:

• Exceeded air temperature. Chrysanthemums love the sun, but heat above 25 ° C causes leaf burn.
• Irrigation interrupted. With an excess of moisture, the roots begin to rot. From lack of water, the leaves turn yellow, buds drop.
• The presence of pests.
• Spider mite.

In order to get rid of such troubles, you can use the following plant treatment:

• Dilute a piece of laundry soap in 10 liters of warm water. Spray flowers in ten days once.
• Pass the head of garlic through a meat grinder, mix in 10 liters of water, leave for thirty minutes, strain. Spray chrysanthemums with this solution.
• You can wipe the leaves, but this is a rather laborious process.

Processing should be carried out on diseased plants, and healthy ones. The main enemy of chrysanthemums is the nematode. Infection of flowers is indicated by blackened lower leaves. Sick plants should be burned. It's useless to fight.

Chrysanthemum is a beautiful autumn flower. Its cultivation can bring pleasure, and when organizing a business, a good profit.

Chrysanthemums grown in protected ground annually occupy an increasing specific gravity in the total volume of cut and potted flower products. The rapid growth in the number of grown chrysanthemums was the result of the introduction of the so-called "controlled flowering" technology into production. The basis of this technology is the artificial regulation of the length of the day in certain periods of chrysanthemum growth, as a result of which it is possible to obtain a crop in 3.4-5 months and, most importantly, at any time of the year. Controlled flowering technology allows year-round use of greenhouses for growing chrysanthemums or using them in certain periods of the year when they are freed from the previous crop of flowers or vegetables, and there is a 3.4-5 month period before planting the next one.

When growing controlled chrysanthemums, special attention should be paid to strict observance of all technological regimes: maintaining the optimal temperature and air humidity, maintaining the optimal level of macro and microelements in the soil or substrates, maintaining the required length of day and night, selecting varieties, adhering to the timing and methods of planting, depending from the planned date of receipt of the product.

Maintaining all necessary conditions, through their correct and timely regulation, is the main controlled cultivation of chrysanthemums in greenhouses. Consider factors external environment and their influence on chrysanthemums.

12.3.1 GROWING ENVIRONMENT FACTORS

Light. For example, the territory of Ukraine on the basis of geographical latitude is divided into 11 zones (Table 13.4). Each of these zones is characterized by a certain duration of day and night in different periods of the year, which must be taken into account when growing chrysanthemums in the specific conditions of Ukraine, as well as other growing zones.

It is known that chrysanthemums are a culture of a short day, i.e. The formation of flowers occurs in them at a certain length of the day. It has been established that the laying of flower buds in the inflorescence occurs in 2 stages. First, with a day length of 14.5 hours or less, a receptacle is laid. The longer this period, the larger the receptacle is formed and the diameter of the inflorescence - baskets will be larger. After the formation of the receptacle, flowers begin to form. This process is most intensively observed at a day length of 13.5 hours or less (Table 13.5).

It has been established that sufficiently high-quality products can be obtained by immediately creating a day length for plants within 8-9 hours. Since the varieties are characterized by a different photoperiodic response, they bloom in 6-15 weeks, after the start, depending on the variety, of short days. Therefore, it is necessary to know the photoperiod response of each variety used and its suitability for controlled flowering. The suitability of a variety for controlled cultivation is determined by the fact that the decorative qualities of the inflorescences, within a variety, vary depending on the type of inflorescence (short and long day). Therefore, for controlled flowering, varieties are used that have a high decorative effect of corymbose inflorescences formed under short day conditions. But some of these varieties can be successfully used for the traditional method of growing from a summer bud.

In the conditions of the central regions of Ukraine, the duration of the day is less than 14.5 hours from the end of August to mid-April. When determining

dividing its length of the light part of the day by the time from sunrise to sunset should be added to autumn months 15 to 30 minutes during daylight hours before sunrise and after sunset, since photoperiodic reaction takes place if the illumination is more than 20 lux.

Since the duration of the vegetative and generative phase of chrysanthemums depends on the length of the day, there is a relationship between the date of planting the cuttings and the date of flowering. For most cut-type varieties, it takes 2-4 weeks of growth after planting under long day conditions (more than 14.50 hours for laying required amount leaves and internodes that provide good foliage and shoot height, followed by 6-12 weeks of growth under short day conditions (less than 13 hours), depending on the cultivar.

In addition to the length of the day great importance has sufficient light intensity to ensure good plant growth, especially during winter hours.

Temperature. Chrysanthemums can grow in a wide range of temperatures from 10°C to 35°C. in summer and early autumn in greenhouses with good ventilation, the temperature does not fall below 22-25 ° C, and in sundial is at the level of 35.5-37°C. With a good supply of water to plants, these temperatures do not prevent good growth and flowering of plants, although a lower temperature - 18-22 ° C is more preferable. In autumn and winter, the air temperature should be 16-17°С at night, up to 22°С during the day in sunny weather, and 17-18°С in cloudy weather. During the flowering period, the temperature is maintained around the clock at 15-16°C, and if necessary, the preservation of flowering plants on the vine - up to 12-13°C, and sometimes even lower. Sunny weather in combination with air temperature in greenhouses over 18-20°C accelerate flowering by 1-1.5 weeks, cloudy weather and low temperatures - up to 15°C and below, delay flowering. Therefore, for winter cultivation using the method of controlled flowering, it is necessary to use greenhouses that guarantee the necessary thermal conditions in order to obtain products by the planned date.

Airing. Constant and high relative air humidity of the order of 85% or more, especially during the flowering period, causes severe damage to plants by gray rot, powdery mildew, septoria, can completely destroy the crop or significantly reduce its quality. This is especially true when using film greenhouses. Therefore, during the growth period, the relative humidity of the air is maintained at the level of 70-75%, and from the beginning of budding - 60-65%. If necessary, greenhouses are equipped with a system forced ventilation for which various electric heaters are used. Particular care should be taken to prevent dew from forming on the plants at night.

Watering. Chrysanthemums are characterized by strong and fast growth, with good water supply - 70-75% PPV or 80-90% HB, so timely and abundant watering is very important. With the ridge planting method, rows of polyethylene tubes with drip irrigation nozzles built into them are laid in the middle of the ridges. Since they wet the leaf surface less. It should be watered in autumn and winter in the morning, and in early autumn - in the morning, so that the leaf surface is dry by night. After watering, be sure to increase the ventilation of greenhouses.

Fertilizer. Chrysanthemums are a demanding culture for a high content of nitrogen (70%), potassium (24%) and phosphorus (6%) in the soil, substrate. The culture of chrysanthemums has a high selectivity for fertilizers, and can tolerate high salt content. However, in order to obtain highly productive plants with high decorative properties, it is necessary to take into account the specific requirements of the culture for the content of nutrients in the soil, substrate, their ratio, forms of fertilizers, and the timing of fertilizer application during the growing season. The introduction of certain norms and ratios for the phases of growth and development, in accordance with biological features varieties, contributes to the increase of decorativeness, productivity, duration of flowering.

At all stages of growth, nitrogen is most important. It is needed to create a large vegetative mass during the first 7 weeks of growth. Even a temporary nitrogen supply below the norm cannot be replenished and this will affect the quality of the flowers. However, too much nitrogen is just as bad as too little. During the growing season, especially in the first 5-7 weeks of growing, plants need calcium in an amount available to plants.

To do this, it is necessary to maintain the ratio of K: Ca as 0.8-1.2: 1, so that there is no antagonism between K and Ca, which will ensure the supply of a sufficient amount of calcium to the plants. Otherwise, with calcium starvation, the development of plants slows down, the rosette of the upper leaves appears, and brown spotting appears on them. During the flowering period, a lack of Ca leads to brown spotting of the petals. With a strong deficiency of Ca, the tops of the shoots dry out, and the whole plant often dies. Calcium nitrate is the best calcium-nitrogen fertilizer.

Phosphorus is necessary for chrysanthemums from planting rooted cuttings for a good development of the root system and for the laying of generative organs.

Potassium is also needed in sufficient quantities. The N:K ratio in nutrition is usually 1:1.2-1.5. Phosphate-potassium fertilizer KH 2 RO 4 and others, including potassium nitrate or the corresponding types of complex fertilizers, solve the problems of phosphorus and potassium nutrition, increase resistance to diseases, low temperatures, stimulate the formation of buds and strong flower stalks. So small-flowered chrysanthemums need phosphorus during the flowering period, and large-flowered ones - during the formation of flowering shoots. The maximum consumption of potassium is observed during the formation and further development of the buds.

For the normal development of chrysanthemums, magnesium, trace elements are necessary: ​​iron, boron, manganese, copper, zinc, molybdenum. The lack of boron weakens the growth of plants, manifests itself in deformed pale-colored inflorescences, the death of the upper shoots. The leaves become tiny, have necrotic spots.

Iron deficiency manifests itself first on the young apical leaves of the shoots. The leaf turns yellow. The use of iron chelates, especially in the form of DTPA at a dose of 15-20 g/m 3 of water, with regular application ensures the absence of chlorosis.

Cut chrysanthemums are grown in soil and low-volume culture.

In soil culture, two cultivation options are common, this is a monoculture or an intermediate crop, usually in the second rotation after vegetables or flowers. With a low-volume cultivation method, ridges up to 1.1-1.2 wide are used with a substrate in trays or on a film, membranous envelopes, in ridges separated from the soil with insulating material from below. With a monoculture of chrysanthemums in both culture options, regular sterilization of the substrate and soil with steam or chemicals, such as basamide granulate, is necessary.

For chrysanthemums, any well-cultivated soil is usually suitable. With a low-volume method of cultivation, peat, peat-perlite, coconut and other greenhouse substrates are used.

Prior to cultivation, soils and substrates are filled with fertilizers, providing the following levels in mg/l of substrate:

N - 80-100 mg/l; P - 15-20 mg/l; K - 100; Ca - 80-100; Mg - 30-40; pH - up to 6; EU - 0.8-1 mS/cm. Peat and soil substrates are filled with chalk or other lime materials to a level of 2500-3000 mg/l Ca. Further fertilizer is applied during the growing period: with a small-volume and soil crop, liquid fertilizers are applied in balanced amounts using a drip irrigation system; with a soil crop, fertilizers can be applied weekly with top dressing or with watering.

When using drip irrigation systems, the following concentrations of batteries in working solutions are used.

The first 4-5 weeks after planting use a solution of the following composition: in mg / l.

N-150-160; P - 30; K - 200; Ca - 180; Mg - 48; Fe - 2; Mn - 0.3; B - 0.25; Zn - 0.25; Si - 0.1; Mo - 0.05. This is a balanced solution. 1000-1300 mg N, 130-180 mg P (or 300-420 mg P 2 O 5), 850-1150 mg K (or K ^ O), 700-900 mg Ca (or 1000-1260 CaO), 200-300 mg Mg (or 330-500 MgO). The same amount of macronutrients is applied per 1 m 2 of usable area with dry application in fertilizers 1 time per week, followed by watering with water acidified to pH 5.5-5.8, as necessary, to maintain optimal soil moisture or using an irrigation system for applying standard solution. From the calculations it can be seen that 6-7 liters of a solution of the above composition should be added per 1 m 2 of area for 1 week. With a low-volume growing method, the same solution is used, but watered with it as needed to moisten the substrate. It is necessary to ensure that the concentration of salts in the soil solution is not higher than 2.5 mS/cm, and in the soil - higher than 1.5 mS/cm.

As chrysanthemums grow, during the budding period, the weekly rate of fertilizer application per 1 m 2:

N-1050-1500; P - 150-220 (or P 2 O 5 - 350-500);

K - 1750-2500 (or K 2 O - 2100-300);

Mg - 130-180 (or MgO - 200-300).

The first digit is for plants 50-60 cm high; the second digit is for chrysanthemums with a large leaf and stem mass. For 1 m 2 in 1 week, 7-9 liters of a working solution of fertilizers should be added. With a low-volume expression

watering is carried out regularly, as needed to moisten the substrate. When irrigated to prevent the accumulation of salts in the substrate above the norm - 2.5 mS / cm give 20-25% drainage. Regular analysis of the substrate, drainage, soil allows you to optimize plant nutrition. The main analysis is a 1:2 water extract.

12.3.2 LIGHT CULTURE TECHNIQUE

The basis for regulating the length of day and night in managed crops is to maintain, for several (2-4) weeks after planting, long day conditions (more than 15 hours) and then short days (less than 13 hours, with an optimum of 10 hours). The variation in the length of the day in the conditions of Kyiv is presented in Table. 13.6 as an example.

The first phase of flower development (the initiation of the development of generative organs) lasts. 3-5 short days. The second (development of the rudiments of reed and tubular flowers on the receptacle to macroscopic size) takes place within 2.5-3 weeks. High and low temperatures, lack of light intensity for photosynthesis, a long day interrupted by a short day, can significantly delay or stop the laying of flowers. The third (complete differentiation of the flower organs) - ends by the 40th short day. Changing the growing conditions (temperature, light) in this phase does not significantly affect the development of the inflorescence and can only delay the timing of flowering.

When organizing the cultivation of a controlled culture of chrysanthemums, light conditions are programmed to regulate the length of the vegetative and generative phases. To prolong the vegetative phase, additional illumination is included for the photoperiodic response of a long day (more than 14.5 hours of the total day length). This takes place from September to the end of April in the conditions of Kyiv. And to switch to generative, they reduce the natural length of the day to 10 hours by darkening the entire greenhouse or ridges with opaque plants.

cemented material. The lengthening of the day with photoperiodic illumination of low intensity (50-100 lux) is technically carried out at the lowest cost using incandescent or other lamps. For example, sodium lamps high pressure use 1 lamp with a 400 W lamp to illuminate 80 m 2 of the greenhouse area, with an appropriate suspension height. For example, in the spans of greenhouses 6.4 m wide and 36 m long, 3 lamps are enough (Table 13.7).

Illumination should be carried out in the middle of the night, interrupting it, since this mode has a stronger effect on the photoperiodic response of plants. You can also apply cyclic backlighting with the following mode: 2 min. light + 8 min. darkness or 3 min. light + 12 min. darkness or 6 min. light + 24 minutes dark. This mode is used during the entire period of long days. With cyclic illumination give more high level illumination - not less than 100 lm.

In the period from October 15 to April 15, for strong growth and product quality, photosynthetic illumination is used with an appropriate duration determined by the photoperiodic response of plants.

Highlighting should be carried out in the middle of the night, interrupting it, as this mode has a stronger effect on plants.

12.3.3 CHRYSANTHEM VARIETIES

Modern numerous varieties of chrysanthemums grown in protected ground are divided into a large number of groups, in accordance with the shape of the petals in the inflorescences. Each of the groups of chrysanthemums has a fairly large number of varieties suitable for cutting, flowerpot products, or universal (cut and flowerpot products). However, cultivars are suitable for managed crops that form highly ornamental inflorescences under short-day conditions. These varieties are subdivided according to the length of the period from the beginning of short days to flowering for 7-14 weeks.

Varieties are combined into groups: potted mid-color; potted large-flowered; potted small-flowered; cut large-flowered; cut branch varieties; varieties of the Santini group, etc. Within each group, you can pick up a sufficient assortment of chrysanthemums of different colors - from white to dark red, bronze with various shades. The majority of varieties belong biologically to groups with a reaction length

a short day, that is, the period from laying the rudiments of flowers to the beginning of their flowering (7-10 weeks), although there are varieties from 6.5 weeks to 11 weeks.

12.3.4 GROWING STOCK MATERIAL

A feature of managed chrysanthemums is the need to plant rooted cuttings, usually from the end of July to December-January, to obtain cut and potted products from the end of October to mid-May. Therefore, mother plants and cuttings are grown in greenhouses during the entire period of their vegetation in long day conditions - more than 15 hours. A feature of growing queen cells and rooting cuttings is the use of light culture during the period from the beginning of August to the end of April, which does not allow the formation of generative organs in growing and rooting cuttings of chrysanthemums.

Before planting rooted cuttings in a permanent place in a greenhouse for growing queen cells, steaming or chemical sterilization of the soil is carried out, as well as wet disinfection of the greenhouse with a 5% formalin solution mixed with a 1% solution of Bi-58 new and others. The norm of the solution is 500-800 liters per 1000 m 2 of the greenhouse. Planting of rooted cuttings is carried out according to the scheme of 20 x 25 cm or 20 pieces per 1 m 2 of the ridge area. The width of the ridges is 1.2 m, the paths are 0.4 m, the length of the ridges is arbitrary. For planting queen cells, it is necessary to use pure-bred healthy planting material from plants characterized by good productivity and the shape and color of inflorescences typical for this variety. After planting and the beginning of growth on the plant, the lower leaves in contact with the soil are removed. The temperature is maintained at 16°C during the winter months. The first pinching is carried out over 5-6 well-formed leaves. In the winter-spring months, cuttings are cut in such a way that at least 3-4 well-developed leaves remain on each shoot, and the cut stalk is about 10 cm long with 1-2 well-developed leaves.

As solar radiation intensifies in spring and summer, plant growth and the number of cuttings taken increase. Regular fertilizing, watering, ventilation of the greenhouse and preventive protective measures keep the queen cells in good condition. By autumn, the part of the lower leaves that may start to turn yellow can be removed, which at the same time contributes to better air circulation between the bushes. From 1 m 2 of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bridges per year, you can get an average of 250-350 pieces. cuttings. The last batch of rooted cuttings can be used to lay new queen cells.

If rhizomes are used for laying queen cells, then rhizome shoots growing from the underground part of the plant require 4-5 weeks of cooling at a temperature of 3-8 ° C, after which cuttings can be taken from them. Otherwise, such shoots and cuttings give non-flowering shoots. To obtain cuttings, you can use shoots sprouting from the buds of the lower part of the shoot from which the flowers were cut. If, after removing the cut, the temperature is raised again, watered, and fertilizing is started, then the shoots growing from these buds can be used for grafting. Plants from these

cuttings grow normally, as they are taken from shoots that have been cooled in the last growing season.

Chrysanthemum cuttings are rooted in perlite, high-moor peat, their mixture or in sand. Cuttings rooted in perlite or its mixture with high-moor peat can be transported to long distances, as well as cuttings of cloves.

When using perlite, it is laid on racks with a layer of 7-8 cm, brought to the required degree of humidity, slightly compacted, and then the cuttings are planted. When using sand and peat, they are mixed in a ratio of 1:1. Then the mixture is laid in a layer of 6-8 cm and lightly tamped. When grafting in sand, only coarse-grained clean river sand is used. It is possible to cut chrysanthemums in soil mixtures, laying sand on top of them with a layer of 2 cm, in which the cuttings are planted. After laying the substrate on the racks, they are shed with a 0.2% suspension of foundationazole. At present, rooting of cuttings in cassettes with a diameter of 4-5 cm in the same substrates is common, but it is better in pure agroperlite with a particle diameter of 2-5 mm. The cuttings are planted at a distance of 4-5 cm, i.e. from 400 to 600-700 pieces / m 2 of the rack. Cuttings are harvested from mother plants by breaking a cutting of the required length (up to 10 cm long) with 2-3 well-developed leaves. With timely regular removal of cuttings, they do not have time to stiffen, easily come off the shoots and do not require additional cleaning. This increases labor productivity and does not affect the decrease in their survival rate. Cuttings can be treated with stimulants that accelerate root formation, for example but-naphthylacetic acid - 1 mg per 1 talc. Planting depth of cuttings 1-2 cm.

After planting, the racks with cuttings are regularly moistened, they can be covered for 10-12 days with plastic wrap, gauze, which protects the cuttings from drying out. The optimum temperature of the substrate is 18-20 ° C, air is 2-3 degrees lower. But since the main batches of cuttings for controlled flowering are grown in July-August-October, the main attention is paid to removing overheating of seedlings by shading and humidifying the air with fogging installations. Rooting lasts 3-4 weeks. During the period of rooting cuttings, especially autumn batches, they monitor the exact observance of the mode of their illumination, i.e., the length of the day. Party cuttings for winter planting are grown using light culture with a lighting level of 4-6 thousand lux for 15 hours, and after the start of a short day - at 12 hours. This backlight mode is usually used in the period from 15.10 to 15.04.

GROWING CHRYSANTHEMEM

The easiest way to grow chrysanthemums is to plant rooted cuttings in a permanent place in the greenhouse at a time that allows you to use the natural long day and then the short day to obtain products in the shortest possible time in the autumn. For this purpose, rooted cuttings are planted 2-4 weeks before the start of short days, lasting 14 hours 30 minutes. in specific terms, depending on the zone (Table 13.6)

Cut varieties are planted in ridges 1.2 m wide, the length of the ridges is arbitrary, depending on the design of the greenhouse used. In Polissya and Forest-Steppe, raised ridges are often arranged, which are 15-20 cm higher than the paths, which contributes to their good aeration. The usual planting density at this time is 15 x 15 or 12.5 x 15 cm or 12.5 x 12.5 cm, i.e. 49-64 pieces. plants per 1 m 2 of the ridge area. Varieties with large leaves and branch varieties that are grown with 5-7 or more flowers per shoot are planted at the rate of 49 pcs / m 2, and with smaller leaves 56-64 pcs / m 2.

If there are not enough cuttings for laying large batches of chrysanthemums in this first period, you can practice planting them according to the scheme 25 x 25 or 20 x 25 cm or similar, pinching each cutting over 2 well-developed leaves and forming 50-60 pcs. shoots per 1 m 2 of the ridge area. In this case, the cuttings should be planted 4-6 weeks before the start of short days and pinched immediately after planting or during the growing process. With this method, 2.5-3 times less planting material is required, but more costs labor for an additional garter of growing shoots, an additional row of support mesh and good support frames.

Subsequent batches of cuttings planted from late August to December-February should be planted in greenhouses equipped with photosynthetic lighting. For these planting dates, only a single-stem culture is suitable according to the principle "one cutting - one shoot - one flower".

If rooted cuttings are planted to obtain potted products, then 1 cutting of 12 and 15 cm, respectively, 3 and 5 cuttings, is planted in a flowerpot with a diameter of 9 cm. The layout of the flowerpots in these cases will be 45-50 pieces, and 8-12 pieces, respectively, according to the size of the flowerpots. Chrysanthemums grown in flowerpots are pinched 1 or 2 times every 2-3 weeks after planting for good branching of bushes and getting short shoots. When pinching, only the top is removed. From planting to the last pinch, flowerpot chrysanthemums are illuminated if necessary, and after the last pinch in two weeks, the backlight is turned off and growth continues under natural conditions. short day before they bloom (see table. 13.8).

In the controlled cultivation of chrysanthemums in greenhouses in the autumn-winter-spring period, it is necessary to select the appropriate greenhouses.

In most varieties, a decrease in air temperature to 14-15 ° C and below delays flowering by 1-2 weeks. Maintaining a given temperature is one of the most important factors that ensure a given flowering period, while observing other modes of controlled flowering technology. Potted culture requires a higher temperature during the growing season - 18-20 ° C.

In the late autumn and winter period of soil cultivation, fertilizing and watering are usually carried out once every 10 days. During this growing period, the relative humidity of the air should be maintained at 65-70%, and during the budding period at 60%. In the morning, the temperature should be maintained a few degrees above the regime and the greenhouses should be slightly ventilated to remove the morning dew, if any.

One of the important technological methods is the timely installation of the reference grid. It is not recommended to use other types of plant garters at this time. The first mesh is tied up at a height of 25-30 cm, 2 at a height of 50-60 cm. Some varieties sometimes need a third garter.

A feature of chrysanthemums is the formation of corymbose inflorescences in a long day. As the flowers develop in large-flowered varieties, all lateral shoots (stepchildren) are removed along the length of the main shoot and all inflorescences, except for the main apical one. In chrysanthemums, groups are decorative, leaving the main apical bud or 5-7 lateral shoots, counting from above, to form the so-called "bouquet" shoot. On these lateral shoots, only the apical bud is left. It is also possible to form non-double and semi-double cut varieties of chrysanthemums.

In potted chrysanthemums, one apical bud is left on each shoot to get large inflorescences. For compact plants last years began to widely use the drug chlorine-choline chloride and other retardants. With 2-3 times watering of plants with a solution of preparations at a concentration of 0.5 5 according to the current principle with a norm of 100-150 ml per 1 flowerpot, watering is carried out for the first time 2 weeks after planting and then again at the time of pinching the plants. The drug reduces the size of internodes, but does not affect the size of leaves and inflorescences.

Cut flowers of chrysanthemums begin in the period of full bloom of the inflorescence. Usually, cutting is carried out with secateurs at a height of 3-5 cm above the soil surface. Cutting should be done in the morning, especially on warm autumn days, as cut flowers are very sensitive to lack of moisture, especially if long-term transportation is required. When cutting, it is necessary to ensure that the inflorescences are dry, and for long-term transportation and leaves. Cut shoots for transportation over long distances are left if necessary for 1 day in a cool room, after which they are packed for shipment to the distribution network.

12.3.6 CHRYSANTHEM PROTECTION FROM PESTS AND DISEASES

Viral diseases.

Aspermia chrysanthemum. The causative agent is tomato aspermia virus. Mosaic of chrysanthemums. Pathogen - dwarfism virus, chrysanthemum "B" virus, chrysanthemum necrosis virus.

Control measures: use healthy planting material.

bacterial diseases.

bacterial cancer. It appears on the roots, root neck, stems.

Bacterial deformation of stems. Bacterial wilt of shoots, pathogen - Ervinia chrysanthemums.

Control measures: improved planting material, soil sterilization.

Fungal diseases.

Blackleg- mushrooms of the genus Pythium.

Control measures: spilling the soil with one of the preparations with a norm of 2-3 l / m 2.

Preparations: Bravo 500 - 0.2%, Previkur 607 - 0.15-0.3%.

Phytophthora chrysanthemums. Control measures: spraying plants with preparations: acrobat 69WP - 0.15%, Spinnaker 607 - 0.3%, Sandofan Manco - 0.2%, 2-3 treatments with a 2-3 week interval.

Rhizoctonia. Control measures: sterilization of the substrate. Preparations: Rovral Flo - 0.2%, Topsin M500 - 0.1% - spraying plants.

Gray thorn.. Botrytis. Preparations: Euparen multi - 0.2%, Rovral Flo - 0.2%.

Vascular fusarium of chrysanthemums. Control measures: improved planting material. Preparations: Topsin - 0.1%, Fundazol - 0.1%, spraying.

Verticilliosis. Control measures: sterilization of the substrate.

Preparations: Topsin - 0.1%.

Dry rot. Preparations: Rovral Flo - 0.2%, Sumilex - 0.1%, Sarfun - 0.1%, Topsin - 0.1%. Repeated spraying 1 time in 7-10 days.

Mildew. Control measures: air humidity not higher than 80%, heating of greenhouses at night with ventilation, regular treatment of plants once a week.

Preparations: Acrobat - 0.1%, Allett - 0.2%, Discus - 0.03%, Ditan M45 - 0.2%, Previkur 607 - 0.3%.

White rust. Control measures: cultivation of resistant varieties, reduction of air humidity, preventive spraying 3-4 times with an interval of 7 days.

Preparations: Bayleton - 0.2%, Diskus - 0.03%, Ditan M45 - 0.2%, Sap-rol - 0.1%, Sarfun - 0.1%, Speed ​​- 0.05%.

Chrysanthemum rust. Control measures: as above.

powdery mildew chrysanthemums. Control measures: use disease-resistant varieties, ventilate greenhouses, reduce humidity, leaves should be dry.

Preparations: Bayleton - 0.2%, Sarfun - 0.1%, Topsin M - 0.1%, Speed ​​- 0.025-0.05%, Sportak - 0.05%. Processing 1-2 times with an interval of 7-10 days with a provocative microclimate in the greenhouse.

Ascochitosis. Control measures: good ventilation, dry leaves, sterilization of the substrate and soil.

Preparations: Ditan - 0.2-0.35%, Saprol - 0.15%, Sarfun, Topsin M - 0.1%. 3-4 times spraying.

Septoria chrysanthemum (black leaf spot). Control measures: use healthy planting material, dry leaves, good ventilation, soil sterilization.

Preparations: Bravo 500 - 0.2%, Rovral Flo - 0.2%, Sarfun, Topsin M- 0,1%.

Sclerocial rot. Control measures: Chemical or thermal tillage.

Preparations: Euparen multi - 0.2%, Rovral Flo - 0.2%, Kaptan - 0.2%, TMTD - 0.2%, Sarfun, Topsin M- 0,1%.

Pests

Chrysanthemum stem nematode. Control measures: use of healthy planting material, steam or chemical sterilization of the soil.

Tick ​​cyclamen. Control measures: spraying 2-3 times with an interval of 7-10 days.

Preparations: Mitak - 0.2%.

Spider mite. Control measures: before growing or after disinfecting the greenhouse, burning sulfur 40-80 g per m 3 with the addition of 40 g ammonium nitrate. High air humidity 75-80%.

Chemical treatment of plants with preparations: Nissorun - 0.06 s%, Magus - 0.06%, Sunmite - 0.1%, Talstar - 0.05%, Vertimek - 0.05%, Acto-fit - 0.6 -0.8% + bitoxibacillin - 1%.

Greenhouse whitefly. Control measures: removal of weeds. With a mass appearance: Appleud - 0.05%, Talstar - 0.05%, Admiral - 0.025%.

Tripe tobacco. 2-3 times treatment with an interval of 7-10 days: Fasttan - 0.025%, Marshall - 0.15%, Confidor - 0.08%, Mospilan - 0.02%.

Tripe western. Control measures: Hanging yellow or blue sticky-coated banners, spraying 4-5 times in 4-5 days on plants and soil surface.

Preparations: Marshal - 0.15%, Confidor - 0.08%, Mospilan - 0.02%, Vertimek - 0.05%, Talstar - 0.05%. To these preparations add sugar 100 g per 100 liters of water.

MODERN IRRIGATION SYSTEMS IN OPEN GROUND CROPS

Chrysanthemum belongs to the Astrov family. Translated from Greek means "flower-sun". These flowers are always in high demand. They are unpretentious in care, and are perfectly grown in open ground. Recently, gardeners often grow chrysanthemums in greenhouses.

Growing chrysanthemum as a business idea:

Greenhouse advantages

Growing flowers in greenhouse conditions has many advantages. These include:

• Closed ground allows chrysanthemums to bloom almost all year round;
• The greenhouse protects the flowers from natural enemies such as snails and caterpillars;
• flowering and quality characteristics chrysanthemums are due to the length of daylight hours. The greenhouse is equipped with adjustable lighting;
• Large-flowered cut species are sensitive to lower temperatures and humidity. Greenhouse conditions allow growing rare varieties.

REFERENCE: In an open flower bed, one caterpillar per night destroys all the buds on the bush.

How to equip a greenhouse for growing chrysanthemums?

For growing flowers from spring to autumn, any greenhouse with a film coating is suitable. It will only be necessary to have ventilation and abundant watering. To grow all year round, you will need a stationary greenhouse, which has a strong frame and high-quality covering material. It must have a heating system and additional lighting.

Variety selection

There are more than 150 types of chrysanthemums, selection does not stand still. Preference should be given to zoned varieties that are resistant to temperature extremes and diseases, and have an average or late deadline flowering. In greenhouse conditions, Indian and Korean chrysanthemums have excellent flowering. Large-flowered species have a high, strong stem, as well as decorative inflorescences up to 18 cm in diameter. Able to reach a height of 80 cm.

Common varieties for greenhouses:

• "Luyon";
• "Indianapolis";
• "Polysade";
• "Princess Ann";
• "Festival";
• "Diplomat".

Small-flowered varieties growing in a bush grow from 40 to 70 cm. Unlike single large-flowered varieties, they are not so whimsical and have long flowering. Suitable for closed ground:

• "Talaxi";
• "Nimbo";
• "Sudis";
• "Dramatic";
• "Alyonushka";
• "Saba".

Breeding options

There are three propagation options: seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush.

Reproduction by seeds

This method is quite painstaking, and does not always bring the expected results. There are two ways to get a full-fledged plant.

First way:

• Seeds are planted in open ground in the spring, after the threat of late frosts has disappeared;
• Make holes in the garden with a distance of 20 cm from each other, water them warm water;
• Drop two or three seeds into the hole, sprinkle with a layer of earth;
• Cover with foil on top until sprouts appear;
• Water the first shoots with any liquid fertilizer and gently loosen the ground. Do not use the film as a covering material;
• Upon reaching shoots of 10 cm, leave the strongest shoot, remove the others.

The flowering of chrysanthemums will not begin until autumn.

The second method (growing seedlings from seeds):

• At the bottom of shallow boxes with drainage system, lay expanded clay;
• Fill expanded clay with a small layer of soil;
• Spread the seeds on the soil, pressing a little to the ground ( perennial varieties) or cover with a small layer of earth (annual);
• Spray with warm water, cover with a film until shoots appear;

• After the emergence of shoots after two weeks, the film is not immediately removed. This must be done gradually. At first they open for an hour, every day they gradually increase the time;
• When 3-4 true leaves appear, the seedlings need to be thinned out. Get rid of strongly elongated or weak ones;
• Lower the temperature to 16-18 ºС, and use as additional lighting LED lamp;
• Be sure to feed with mineral fertilizers.

REFERENCE: The resulting view has significant differences compared to the original parent form.

Reproduction by cuttings

This method refers to the technology of “controlled flowering”. It is possible to plan the date of planting in connection with the desired time of receipt of flowers. Breeding technology:

• For cuttings take shoots from the main root. Select a leaf that has a bud and make its cut higher. The length of the cuttings should be 7 cm;
• Moisten the ends of the cuttings in a growth biostimulator (Kornevin, Etamon). For four hours, keep the cuttings in a solution of warm water with honey (0.5 teaspoon of honey per half liter of water);
• Put a layer of sufficiently moistened soil in a box, fill it with river sand from above, 2-3 cm thick. To destroy pathogens, sand must be calcined;
• Stick the cuttings into the sand at an angle of 45º. Do not allow the soil to dry out, the temperature in the room should not be too high;
• Transplantation to the greenhouse is carried out as soon as the cuttings take root. This process will take 3 weeks.

REFERENCE: Via this method you can grow seedlings from a bouquet. To do this, remove the leaves and buds from the flower. The top is cut off, leaving 8-10 cm. The cutting is lowered into the water. As soon as the roots appear, they are transplanted into the greenhouse.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

The simplest, but inefficient method. Use in early spring, before growth begins. Breeding technology:

• Dig up a bush, free from an earthy coma;
• Using a knife, divide into several parts, trying not to damage the root system;
• Each part should have three strong shoots. Remove stiff and rotten ones;
• After separation, plant in the ground and carry out abundant watering.

How chrysanthemums are grown in Holland:

Growing features

To get healthy, strong, regularly blooming chrysanthemums, you need to follow certain rules. How to grow:

• Soil preparation. The acidity should be 6.5 - 7 pH (neutral) or 7.5 - 8 pH (slightly alkaline). The soil mixture includes garden soil and turf, with the addition river sand and humus (a bucket per 1 sq.m). Ash, lime, dolomite flour will help reduce acidity;
• Regularly apply mineral fertilizers;
• Soil treatment from pests. The beds are shed with boiling water or a solution of copper sulfate;
• Planting cuttings. This procedure can be carried out all year round;

IMPORTANT: Keep in mind that the whole process will take four months.

• Planted early in the morning or in the evening. Planting cuttings bush varieties produced with a distance of 40 cm from each other. The distance between single-stem varieties should be 20 cm. Do not deepen the roots too much;
• Water correctly. Chrysanthemums love moisture, so you need to water abundantly. For irrigation, use rain or melt water. Adding three grams of ash per liter of water will soften the water. Water should not fall on the leaves. For a regular supply of moisture to the root system, use a drip irrigation system. With the help of loosening, soil dehydration can be slowed down. Minimal watering increases the duration of flowering;
• During the growing season of plants, the humidity level in the greenhouse should be 75%. As soon as the buds appear, reduce the humidity to 65%;
• temperature and light. The rapid development of rooted cuttings is facilitated by a temperature of at least 18 ºС. When buds appear, the temperature drops to 12 ºС. Adult plants will withstand temperatures down to -3 ºС, but the buds will die. The duration of illumination is determined by the phase of plant development. Growing cuttings need 18 hours of daylight. During winter distillation, it is advisable to use LED or sodium lamps. With the advent of the first buds, daylight hours are reduced to 10 hours. In summer, a black film is used for this purpose.

The absence of complete darkness at night will not allow large-flowered varieties blossom.

top dressing

Chrysanthemums need mineral fertilizers. Feeding rules:

• The first stage requires the application of nitrogen fertilizers. They will help to increase the green mass and strengthen the root system;
• When flower shoots develop and buds form, they are fed with potash fertilizers;
• Application phosphate fertilizers contribute to the long and lush flowering of chrysanthemums;
• Once every 7-10 days, fertilize with infusion of mullein or chicken manure (1 liter for each plant). Recipe: a bucket of litter or two buckets of mullein is poured with water, insisted in for three days. A liter of concentrated infusion is diluted with 10 liters of water;
• Fertilizers should be applied directly under the root into moist soil. Once on the leaves and flowers causes burns.

Too much fertilizer is more dangerous than too little.

Prevention and treatment of diseases

Improper care is the cause of diseases:

• Exposure to high air temperatures causes leaf burn;
• Oversaturation with moisture is fraught with decay of the root system. With a lack of moisture, the leaves begin to turn yellow, the plants shed their buds;
• Pests: spider mite, aphid.

How to treat:

• Dissolve laundry soap in a bucket of warm water. Spray every 10 days;
• Ground garlic insist half an hour in 10 liters of water, filter. Spray chrysanthemums;

REFERENCE: Treat both diseased and healthy plants.

• When infected with a nematode (blackened lower leaves), diseased plants are burned.

Growing chrysanthemums in a greenhouse will bring not only aesthetic pleasure, but can also become quite a profitable business. Compliance with the recommendations for growing will allow you to decorate the garden with long-blooming, bright, various shapes and colors, plants.

The cultivation of chrysanthemums can be done in three ways, depending on the purpose of their purpose and the possibilities on given time. The first is when rooted cuttings are planted in boxes or 9 cm pots, and at the end of spring frosts they are transferred to open ground, and after flowering in autumn, the plants are transplanted into 15-21 cm pots and transferred to the greenhouse where they bloom. The second is when rooted cuttings are planted first in 9-centimeter pots, then in 13-, and then in 15-centimeter ones, and then transferred to a film greenhouse, bypassing open ground.

Chrysanthemum Care

For growing magnificent chrysanthemums, I use growth stimulants and bioregulators (Zircon, Epin, Bud). Each of these drugs has its own purpose. All these reliable means are checked up by time and work positively.

During the period of growth of the chrysanthemum bush, I cut off the old leaves, which are most susceptible to infections (the first to start to hurt). In addition, after this procedure it is easier to water the plants under the root.

The stems of chrysanthemums are fragile and can break from strong wind and rain, so the shoots of tall varieties must be tied to stakes.

At the end of the flowering of garden chrysanthemums or with the beginning of frosts, I cut the stems of plants, leaving stumps 10-15 cm high.
It's nice to grow wonderful chrysanthemums in the garden and enjoy their beauty. But you still need to be able to save your favorite plants until the next season. There are many ways to organize the wintering of chrysanthemums; I will tell mine.
I make trenches in the garden (20 cm), put rotted humus there, lightly sprinkle with earth, and on top. I fill them with earth at the level of the soil. I write down in a notebook N of a row and a grade.
When the cold starts, I fill up the mother liquors of chrysanthemums with various insulating materials - sawdust, foliage, shavings. Manure gives heat, and in the spring it is also top dressing. I close the chrysanthemums covered for the winter with Lutrasil.

Growing chrysanthemums in greenhouses - how to speed up the flowering of chrysanthemums?

Growing chrysanthemums can be done in three ways, depending on the purpose of their purpose and opportunities at a given time.
The first is when rooted cuttings are planted in boxes or 9 cm pots, and at the end of spring frosts they are transferred to open ground, and after flowering in autumn, the plants are transplanted into 15-21 cm pots and transferred to the greenhouse where they bloom.
The second is when rooted cuttings are planted first in 9-centimeter pots, then in 13-, and then in 15-centimeter ones, and then transferred to a film greenhouse, bypassing open ground.
The third is an accelerated method of cultivation, when 2 flowering per year is obtained from the same area. This method requires special preparation of queen cells, which will be discussed below.
Year-round flowering is provided by an accelerated culture of chrysanthemums, when 4-4.5 months pass from cuttings to flowering instead of 8-9 with conventional culture.

The method of controlled cultivation of chrysanthemums includes detailed planning of all stages of production - from the selection of a variety to the sale of products. It is based on the photoperiodic response of plants and makes it possible to cut at any time of the year by a certain date (up to 3 times a year). In the conditions of Moscow, it is effective to obtain flowering chrysanthemums from the end of August to the 1st decade of May. Choosing the right varieties for the timing of flowering and planting at the optimal time, flower growers receive cut products from August to November and from late April to early May, without resorting to light culture. However, it is more important to have products from December to April, when the demand for flowers is especially high. This is possible only when certain optimal conditions for the accelerated development of plants are created.
For accelerated cultivation strict adherence to biological natural requirements plants: during the growth period, ensuring a long day (over 14 hours) and high temperature(16-18 °С) and humidity (70-80%), during the budding period - a decrease in temperature (up to 10 °С) and a short day (10-11 h), in the summer period - shading and cooling (up to 18-22 °С), in autumn-winter - heating (up to 16-18 °С) and illumination up to 4000 lx. It is extremely important to maintain the night temperature at 16-20 ° C, since only at night and only at this temperature do new internodes and leaves form. When buds appear on the plants, the temperature is reduced within three weeks by 6 ° C to 10 ° C. In winter, there should be more natural light in the greenhouse due to well-washed glass, painting metal structures white, and removing snow from the roof. In order to prolong vegetative growth with daylight hours less than 14 hours (from the 2nd half of August to mid-March), to obtain a peduncle length of 35-40 cm and prevent bud formation, additional irradiation is required for 3-5 weeks with a specific power of 75-160 W / m2. Additional illumination is most often carried out with mercury lamps of the DRLF type, placing them at a height of 1.5 meters of plants.
In the spring and summer, when plants need a short day, black polyethylene is used, which is stretched over a special frame above the plants. With a year-round culture, the greenhouse is shaded from mid-March to the end of September 6 times a week from 18 to 8 hours, before the buds start to color. In summer, 8-9 hours of the day is enough, and from the second half of August, the optimal day length is increased to 11-12 hours. After the formation of buds, in order to obtain more double inflorescences, the plants are transferred to a long day, and the temperature during this period is maintained at 10 ° C During the period of vegetative growth, the soil should be constantly moist (60-65% of total moisture), and during the budding phase, the frequency of irrigation is halved.

Top dressing must be combined with watering and subsequent loosening. It is necessary to feed the plants with fertilizers 10-12 days after planting. The soil for both pot and soil culture should consist of equal amounts of humus and peat. The application rates of nutrients depend on the phase of plant development. The interval between top dressing during the period of growth and budding is 7-10 days. During the period of complete dissolution of the inflorescences, they can be stopped, but then resumed after the flowering of the plants.
In the programmed cultivation of chrysanthemums, it is especially important to support optimal level light, temperature, CO2 concentration in the greenhouse and provision of plants with moisture.
Light conditions significantly affect the intensity of photosynthesis taking place in plants, accelerate or delay growth and flowering, and the spectral composition of radiation contributes to the passage of basic physiological processes in plants.
Leaves absorb mainly visible and ultraviolet radiation. Radiation with wavelengths of 680 nm is most fully used for photosynthesis. For flowering when cultivated in a year-round managed crop, an illumination intensity of 4000 lux is considered optimal. The temperature regime also significantly affects the accumulation of vegetative mass and the formation of generative organs. To program the flowering period, it is necessary to distinguish between day and night temperatures in the greenhouse, since at night at a temperature not lower than 14.5 ° C, important growth processes take place - elongation of shoots and the formation of new leaves. There are varieties that are sensitive to temperature conditions, and lowering it delays the beginning of flowering in them by 2-3 weeks and worsens the quality of the inflorescences. And in the warm summer months, when it is almost impossible to maintain a certain temperature, varieties that are most resistant to elevated temperatures should be selected. These are “Resident”, “Hoeks Bronse”, “Bonnie Jean”, etc. Varieties with dark color of inflorescences (“Parade”, “Marilor”, etc.) burn out faster.

The productivity of bushes largely depends on the concentration of CO2 in the greenhouse, light and temperature conditions, provision of soils with nutrients, especially nitrogen. Chrysanthemums should be fed with CO2 only at air temperatures above 15-16 ° C and up to
static illumination, bringing its concentration to 0.15%. In recent years, aluminum foil has been used to improve lighting inside greenhouses, which has a positive effect on clear weather in winter. In autumn and winter, greenhouses are equipped with an additional artificial lighting system.
In the conditions of Moscow, for year-round cultivation of chrysanthemum culture, it is necessary to darken the plants from the second half of March until the end of September. Do it with black polyethylene film or black fabric, fixed on special frames above the ridges. To create the optimal temperature during the cold season, the greenhouse is equipped with a system of subsoil and air heating, and for cooling the air in summer - with fans and transoms. Shading is provided using a fine mesh or white fabric. The suitability of a variety for a controlled year-round crop must first be clarified in specific conditions. The following varieties and clones are suitable for Moscow. From large-flowered varieties:

9-week - "Luyon", "Escapade", "Polisade";
10-week - "Princess Ann" ( different colors), "Indianapolis", "Matgerhorn", "Festival", "Crimson Slave";
11-week - "Spider White and Yello", "Fred Shusmint", "Balcombe Perfection Red".
From small-flowered varieties:
9-week - "Marble White", "Pinky Yellow", "Sybil", "Dramatic", "Sudis", "Nimbo";
10-week - "Bonnie Jean", "Sands White" and "Yello", "Aglow";
11 weeks - "Taffeta White" and "Yellow", "Long Island Beauty",
12-week - Talaksi "and others.

How to grow chrysanthemums in a greenhouse - the fight against diseases and pests of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum may be affected various diseases and pests. Therefore, prevention is necessary; After all, it is always better to prevent than to cure. Moreover, the treatment is more expensive and does not always give positive results.

In the absence of rain, abundant watering is important for moisture-loving chrysanthemums also because moist soil prevents the development of populations of insect pests of chrysanthemums (mites and aphids), which do not tolerate moisture.

IN garden soil there are always many types of pathogens, and rains and winds also bring harmful microorganisms into the garden. Therefore, I carry out the processing of chrysanthemums after each heavy rain, alternating drugs against plant diseases (Previkur, Quadris, etc.).
From the root rot of chrysanthemums, I use Fitosporin; At each top dressing I add this drug to the irrigation water.

There are also a lot of insects who want to feast on juicy leaves, buds and inflorescences of chrysanthemums.
Aphids, which feed on plant sap, cause great harm to chrysanthemums, causing growth retardation and damage to buds. At the same time, aphids are a carrier of plant diseases.
Caterpillars, mites, thrips, leafworms, snails ... and that's not all the enemies of chrysanthemums. For example, one g caterpillar per night can eat several buds of chrysanthemums. And if there are a lot of caterpillars on the bushes, then for the gardener the probability of not seeing the long-awaited lush flowering favorite chrysanthemums...

You constantly need to be on your guard, regularly and carefully review your landings, and take action in time. In the fight against insect pests of chrysanthemums, I use the appropriate preparations (Ratibor, Aktellik, Iskra, Fitoverm, Aktara, etc.).

Forcing chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums lend themselves perfectly to forcing (forcing is a technique by which a plant comes out of dormancy, begins to grow and blooms at an unusual time for it).

Chrysanthemum is a short-day culture - that is, the formation of flowers in this plant depends on the length of the light period.
Experts have found that the laying of flower buds in the chrysanthemum inflorescence occurs in two stages. First, with a day length of not more than 14.5 hours, a receptacle is formed. The longer this period, the larger it becomes, and the larger the diameter of the basket inflorescence.
Then the chrysanthemum flowers begin to form. This process proceeds most intensively when the day length is less than 13.5 hours.

Sufficiently high-quality cutting of chrysanthemums can be obtained if you immediately set the day length for plants to 10 hours.

Different varieties of chrysanthemums have a different reaction to the duration of lighting, and therefore they bloom in different ways: after 6-15 weeks from the beginning of a short day.

Particularly suitable for forcing varieties of chrysanthemums from the Branchy group.

Most cut chrysanthemums require 2-4 weeks of growth after planting with a long day (more than 14.5 hours) to develop the required number of leaves and internodes. Then 6-12 weeks the growth of chrysanthemums takes place with a short day (less than 13 hours).

If you follow these conditions for keeping the plant, then the chrysanthemum will bloom by any desired date - for a birthday, for New Year, by March 8, by September 1!
These flowers will bring a lot of joy to the holiday; so the gardener can earn.

When these dates are calculated from the desired date for the beginning of the flowering of chrysanthemums, at the moment the forcing begins, I put arcs and cover the chrysanthemums with a black film (tightly, there should be no gap), artificially creating a short day.
So, the main thing in forcing chrysanthemums is to withstand the length of the day 10 hours. And although it is troublesome, but if there is a desire to grow chrysanthemums better than the Dutch flower growers, then you will succeed!

If it seemed to someone that it is difficult to grow chic chrysanthemums, then this is not so!
And one more thing - you just need to love your plants, and then they will surely delight you with their luxurious flowers.

In the East, the chrysanthemum is identified with the sun and it is believed that the dew collected from this flower prolongs life. Thanks to the long flowering, the chrysanthemum symbolizes happy longevity.
So live happily ever after, enjoying the magnificent chrysanthemums grown and the beauty of this world!

Watering and feeding chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum is very moisture-loving, so the plant must be watered abundantly before flowering.
It is better to water chrysanthemums with soft water - rain or settled (you can add 2-3 drops of ammonia to the water).
With a lack of water, the stems of chrysanthemums coarsen, and the leaves and flowers look less attractive.

Chrysanthemum loves to "eat" organic matter and is responsive to mineral nutrition.

To feed chrysanthemums, I purchase various ready-made mineral fertilizers.
At the beginning of the cultivation of young chrysanthemums, I use nitrogen fertilizers to increase the green mass, and then phosphorus-potassium fertilizers for better flowering.

Water chrysanthemums with top dressing only at the root, remember: mineral fertilizers that have fallen on the leaves will cause a burn.

Nitrogen affects the height of plants, the number of shoots, the color intensity of leaves and inflorescences, and the size of the flower. A lack of nitrogen causes chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves, while small, nondescript inflorescences form in the chrysanthemum.
To build up the green mass of chrysanthemums, I use ammonia nitrogen, and at the stage of bud formation - nitrates.
When the chrysanthemum forms a strong bush and reaches the budding phase, I turn to phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Phosphorus contributes to the abundant and prolonged flowering of chrysanthemums, increases their immunity.
I introduce phosphorus into the soil (at the rate of 50 g per 1 m of area), bone meal.

Potassium also has a positive effect on the health of chrysanthemums and the beauty of their inflorescences.
the best potash fertilizer for growing profusely flowering chrysanthemums, potassium sulfate is considered.

With the development of young chrysanthemums, it is especially important to provide them with good nutrition in the first 6-8 weeks, when there is an active increase in the vegetative mass. At this time, I feed chrysanthemums with fertilizers with the formula N: P: K - 2: 1: 1, using ready-made complex fertilizers with micronutrients.

It is very good to use mullein, only burned out, for feeding chrysanthemums, you can also use chicken droppings. But remember the rule: it is better not to feed the plant than to burn it.
I put 2 buckets of mullein or 1 bucket of chicken manure in a large barrel, fill everything with water, stir and insist for three days - a valuable concentrated fertilizer is ready.
To feed the plants, I make a solution: I take one liter of the resulting concentrated infusion and add ten liters of water to it.
I fertilize the chrysanthemums in the garden with this diluted infusion, adding one liter of solution under each plant. Fertilizer watering of chrysanthemums is carried out only under the root and, which is also important, already on moist soil.

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