Beautiful flower garden Hydrangea: planting and care in the open field with a photo. Garden hydrangea - features of growing in the open field Purple garden hydrangea

Hydrangea, blooming with luxurious bright inflorescences, can grow both in the garden and indoors. The care and cultivation of home varieties is, of course, different from the cultivation of hydrangeas in the garden. Our publication will tell you in detail about the rules for indoor maintenance of hydrangeas.

Beauty who loves water

The Latin name for hydrangea - hydrangea - literally translates as "a vessel with water." This name was not given to this plant in vain: hydrangea loves water very much and does not tolerate drought at all.

Hydrangea is a deciduous plant that sheds its leaves for the winter and retires.

The main characteristics of hydrangea:

• there are about 80 species and a large number of varieties of hydrangea;
• types of hydrangeas are divided into liana-shaped, tree-like and shrubby;
• some species are frost-resistant;
• garden hydrangeas grow up to three meters in height, and liana-shaped even up to thirty;
• Hydrangeas live for about 20 years.

In home cultivation, large-leaved hydrangea is used, which breeders use to create new hybrids and varieties of this spectacular plant.

Indoor hydrangeas can reach a size of up to 1.5 meters. New varieties for indoor cultivation usually have a height of 50 to 100 cm.

• hydrangea leaves are serrated, ovoid with a sharp tip, 10–15 cm long. They turn red in autumn and fall off by winter;
• inflorescences up to 35 cm in diameter, consisting of large sepals, which can be monophonic, of different colors or change it as it develops and depending on the acidity of the soil;
• inside the sepals are small petals;
• flowers may be sterile or fertile. The seeds are very small;
• the shape of the flowers can be of four types: spherical, umbrella-shaped, cone-shaped and racemose;
• sepals of different species and varieties have a variety of shapes, can be terry;
• hydrangea blooms from early summer to late autumn;
• The number of inflorescences on hydrangeas increases with the age of the plant.

When grown at home, the hydrangea is quite whimsical, but subject to the rules of care, it will certainly delight you with its flowering.

The color range of hydrangeas is diverse, in addition, the color of the flowers depends on the acidity of the soil. Because of this property, hydrangea is called a plant chameleon. There are varieties that do not change their color from the chemical composition of the soil.

Flower buds of ordinary large-leaved hydrangea are formed at the tips of last year's shoots, so pruning is done only on shrunken, extra shoots, without touching the tops with flower buds.

Now new varieties have been bred, in which buds with future flowers are formed on the shoots of both the past and this year. These are called repairers.

Hydrangea is a shade tolerant plant. Moreover, its flowers do not tolerate bright sunlight.

Under natural conditions, hydrangea grows in Asia, America, China and Japan. Several species grow in Russia in the Far East.

Hydrangea does not tolerate extreme heat well, so it is planted in the garden only in shady places. It requires high humidity.

Hydrangea leaves can be used in tea. The roots, branches and inflorescences of paniculate and tree hydrangeas are used for medicinal purposes and various medicinal preparations are made from them.

Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea by flower color

There are a huge number of varieties of large-leaved hydrangea. Let's take a look at a few of the most popular, dividing them into color categories.

Light

Sister Teresa (Soeur Therese):

• inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
• white inflorescences with a delicate lilac-pink tint by the end of flowering change color to greenish-pink;
• blooms until September on the shoots of the previous year;
• dense, spreading shrub.

Madame Emile Mouillere (Mme E. Mouillere):

• inflorescence diameter 20 cm;
• flowers, pure white at the beginning of flowering, then acquire light pink or light blue hues;
• blooms profusely on the shoots of the past and this year until October;
• leaves narrower than other varieties.

Blue

Early Blue (Early Blue):

• inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
• blue inflorescences with blue-violet hues at first have a greenish tint;
• blooms profusely until October on the shoots of the previous and current year;
• has a strong root system and a compact bush.

Nikko Blue:

• inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
• inflorescences are bright blue, to maintain color, an acidic soil reaction of 5.5–7.0 pH is needed;
• abundant flowering until September - October on the shoots of the current and last year;
• fast growing medium sized shrub.

Pink

Ramars Mars or Mars:

• inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
• inflorescences are pink-crimson with a white edging, which turns green over time;
• compact bush.

Miss Saori:

• inflorescence diameter 18 cm;
• inflorescences are dull white with a pink border, retain their original color regardless of the acidity of the soil;
• blooms until September on the shoots of the current and previous year;
• dark green foliage has a purple tint.

You and my love (You & me Love):

• stem height 100 cm;
• blooms continuously from May to September;
• pink in alkaline soil. in acid, with a high content of aluminum - in blue;
• leaves are resistant to powdery mildew;
• frost resistance -29 o C.

Red

Admiration:

• inflorescence diameter 20 cm;
• bright red flowers;
• abundant flowering until October on the shoots of last year;
• the bush has a dense crown.

Multicolor

Bavaria (Bavaria):

• inflorescence diameter 20 cm;
• lime-colored flowers with a violet-blue center and a white border;
• abundant flowering until October on last year's shoots;
• compact bush.

Hot Red:

• inflorescence diameter 15 cm;
• red flowers with high acidity of the soil have a purple hue;
• blooms until October on last year's shoots;
• lush bush, does not lie down from massive inflorescences.

Schloss Wackerbarth:

• inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
• pink inflorescences with a blue center and green edging, green at the beginning of flowering;
• flowering on the last year's shoots until October-early November;
• flowers are decorated with light stamens.

Huge inflorescences, colorful petals, graceful stamens - all this is the Schloss Wackerbarth variety.

Often, beginner flower growers are looking for a hydrangea mix variety. You should know that there is no such variety, this phrase refers to multi-colored hydrangeas in the composition or in the assortment of the store.

Grown at home in a pot of hydrangeas in the photo

The hydrangea plant got its name in honor of the princess of the Roman Empire named Hortense.
Archaeological excavations in the northern regions of America have shown that hydrangea grew 40 thousand years ago Large-leaved hydrangea can be successfully grown both in the garden and on the home windowsill. At home, hydrangea does not have to be kept on the window, it is a shade-tolerant plant. In the West, hydrangea is called French since they learned about this plant after the first French round-the-world expedition. There are about 80 species and a huge number of varieties and hybrids of hydrangea. The owner of this hydrangea is a clear original.

Hydrangea care at home

From too bright sunny color, hydrangea inflorescences burn out and become stained. Therefore, you need to place it on the eastern or western windows. Hydrangea will grow well away from the window, especially from the south. For flowering diffused light hydrangea is enough.

To prevent the stems from breaking, inflorescences that are too heavy sometimes need to be supported using props for branches.

Hydrangea feels best outdoors. Therefore, at positive temperatures, it is advisable to keep it on the balcony, veranda or take it out into the garden. If this is not possible, then regularly ventilate the room, and at high temperatures, place it on the northern windows.

Try to take the hydrangea out to fresh air more often.

Hydrangea does not like sudden changes in temperature, as well as drafts.

Hydrangea needs moist air:

• it is necessary to spray the hydrangea in the morning, especially in dry hot weather;
• in the heat, be sure to place vessels with water nearby;
• a good moisturizing option: put the flower in a container filled with water, on a two-centimeter layer of expanded clay or coarse perlite.

Hydrangea does not tolerate drought, so the most important condition when growing it is to monitor soil moisture. It should always be slightly damp.

When watering, use soft water, as excess lime is bad for the plant. To do this, you can boil tap water, wait until the sediment accumulates at the bottom, and drain clean water.

From spring to autumn, it is necessary to water the hydrangea abundantly and do not remove water from the pan. Mulch should be placed on top of the soil to retain moisture. It is best to use coniferous litter or crushed pine bark for this.

What materials are used as mulch:

• coniferous litter;
• crushed pine bark;
• coniferous sawdust;
• riding peat;
• sphagnum moss.

In autumn, at the beginning of leaf fall, watering is reduced.

In winter, watering is needed only in order not to dry out the earthen ball and the roots of the plant. When the first new leaves appear, watering begins to increase.

Hydrangea also does not tolerate stagnant water, it needs good drainage.

Once or twice a month during watering, it is necessary to acidify the soil. You can use lemon juice, citric acid for this.

• juice consumption: five drops per liter of water;
• consumption of citric acid: powder at the tip of a knife per liter of water.

You need to feed the hydrangea from the beginning of spring to the end of summer 2 times a month with fertilizer for hydrangeas or for flowering plants. Fertilizers for hydrangeas contain mainly magnesium and iron.

For better and faster growth of the green mass of the plant, you can feed it with nitrogen fertilizers during the growth period - before flowering.

Granular nitrogen fertilizers are dissolved in warm water and the plant is watered once a week.

The norm of nitrogen in the form of carbamide (urea): half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

For spraying, it is convenient to use ammonia (ammonia), it will also be an additional pest prevention. They can also water the plant. It is enough to spray once a week. The rate of use of ammonia: half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

What indicators of soil acidity and alkalinity change the color of hydrangea

If you want to maintain or change the color of your hydrangea, then there are special top dressings for this.

You can use other methods: the addition of aluminum sulfate or a little liming with dolomite flour or ash. Apply these drugs, be sure to control the acidity of the soil.

If the pH is 7.0, the soil is neutral; if it is lower, the soil is acidic; if it is higher, the soil is alkaline.

• acidic soil (Ph 3–6) with a high aluminum content supports blue, blue and purple shades of inflorescences;
• neutral or slightly acidic soil (pH 6–7) supports light, white colors;
• more alkaline soil (pH 7–8) with a reduced aluminum content produces pink and red.

The optimal acidity for hydrangeas is in the range of 5.5–6.0 pH. Hydrangea does not tolerate strongly alkaline (calcareous) soils! With a strongly alkaline soil reaction, the hydrangea cannot absorb iron, it develops chlorosis of the leaves, which turn yellow and fall off.

To determine the acidity, you need to buy a special device.

Soil alkalinity indicators:

• slightly alkaline: pH 7–8;
• medium alkaline: pH 8–8.5;
• strongly alkaline: pH - 8.5 and above.

Do not allow alkalinity to rise above 8 pH.

Acidity is supported by coniferous litter, pine bark, high-moor peat, watered with potassium permanganate and citric acid (or lemon juice).

Alkalinity supports the presence of lime (chalk, dolomite flour) and ash in the soil.

Acidity should be measured a few days after the application. If it "does not reach" the desired value, the application should be repeated.

Red inflorescences can be "repainted" in lilac and purple shades, change pink to blue. Moreover, if you water only one side of the bush with a solution, you will get a very beautiful transition of colors.

When using such products, make sure that they do not get on the leaves and flowers, and do not exceed the dosage!

Dosages of drugs that change the chemical composition of the soil:

• To change pink to blue, red to purple-lilac, you need to increase the concentration of aluminum in the soil: 1 tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per 1 liter of water.
• We change the blue color to pink, stopping feeding with aluminum and increasing the alkaline reaction of the soil: we dig 1 teaspoon of dolomite flour evenly into the soil and monitor the alkalinity, which should be in the range of 7–8 pH. If the pH is less than 7, add ash to the soil (1-2 tablespoons). 1-2 times a month, when watering, add potassium permanganate to the water: 5-7 grains per liter of water.

Don't expect instant changes. The color may start to change only from the second season. If the color of the hydrangea still does not change, you will have to replace the soil.

Pruning: Do's and Don'ts

If the variety grows slowly, pruning should be done infrequently. Accordingly, if the growth of hydrangea is fast, then it will have to be cut more often.

Do not forget that the hydrangea inflorescences are located on the tops of the shoots, so they cannot be cut off. You can cut the shoots for better branching either from only planted cuttings (in the second year after planting), or from remontant hydrangeas.

If your hydrangea gives an abundance of shoots, then you can cut off the extra ones even with flowers, they stand in the water for a long time. Perhaps they will take root and give life to new plants.

Faded inflorescences are cut off as they dry above the uppermost bud.

Principles of pruning hydrangeas:

• if the plant is less than 4 years old, only dry shoots need to be cut;
• old, thickened and small shoots are cut off on hydrangeas;
• shoots for thinning are pruned in the spring, and diseased and dry ones can be cut in the fall;
• do not water the plant for a couple of days before pruning.

How to prune a hydrangea:

1. Select dry, excess or too small shoots and cut them with sharp sterile scissors or secateurs.
2. Treat slices with turmeric, brilliant green or activated charcoal powder.
3. Hydrangea can be watered a day after pruning, when the sections dry out a little.

The main trunks of the plant should remain no more than eight. 4-5 branches are left on each trunk.

rest period

At the beginning of leaf fall, so that the roots do not rot, watering the hydrangeas is reduced. The plant no longer consumes as much water as during growth and flowering, so it is important to monitor the condition of the soil. It should be about the same as the wet commercial primer when you first open the package.

After dropping hydrangea leaves, it is necessary to provide a temperature of less than 10 ° C.

Best of all, hydrangea hibernates at a temperature of + 5-8 o C. Therefore, the best option is to take the pot with the plant to a dry basement. We must not forget at this time to gradually water the earth in order to prevent the death of the root system.

If you do not have a basement, you should place the hydrangea in the coolest place in your house or apartment. She doesn't need light at this time.

At the very beginning of spring, the hydrangea must be brought into the house, first placing it in the coolest, but brightest place. When it grows leaves, you can move the plant to a warmer place.

Table: how to care for hydrangea

Diseases and treatment

Hydrangeas rarely get sick. But with improper care and weakened immunity, the plant can be affected by fungal or bacterial diseases, be attacked by pests.

The main problems when growing hydrangeas:

• if the hydrangea is kept in too humid and shaded conditions, then powdery mildew (a fungal disease) may form on the plant;
• in very dry and hot weather (more than + 27 ° C), hydrangea can be affected by spider mites;
• in extreme heat (more than +30 ° C), hydrangea can shed its leaves, if the sun is too strong, the leaves begin to turn yellow, the flowers dry out and wither;
• on alkaline soils (excess lime, an indicator of more than 8 pH), hydrangea develops chlorosis - yellowing of the leaves;
• with insufficient air and soil humidity, the hydrangea stops blooming, the leaves dry out, the roots can dry out;
• with poor drainage and abundant watering, the roots begin to rot, as a result, fungal diseases form.

Table: hydrangea problems and their solution

To prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, add to the soil when watering 1-2 times a month a bio-remedy based on beneficial bacteria: Gamair, Rizoplan (Planriz), Alirin-B.

Video: hydrangea diseases and pests

Planting (transplanting) hydrangeas: choice of soil, pot and instructions

It is not possible to grow a luxurious plant in any soil. The soil for hydrangeas should be loose, acidic and nutritious. You can prepare the soil yourself: soddy land 2 parts, coniferous litter 1 part, peat 1 part, crushed pine bark 0.5 parts, sand 0.5 parts.

From ready-made purchased soils, soils can be used for hydrangeas, azaleas, rhododendrons, and conifers.

Hydrangea loves water very much, but in a swamp she will also feel bad, the roots will begin to rot and fungal diseases will appear. Therefore, when planting, it is necessary to provide it with good drainage.

Drainage includes holes in the bottom of the pot and a 1–2 cm layer of expanded clay, pebbles or coarse perlite.

The pot needs to be changed as the root system grows. Do not plant the plant in a too spacious pot. When the roots completely fill the space, then transplant the plant into a slightly larger pot. The roots of the hydrangea grow shallow, but dense.

On average, hydrangeas need to be repotted every 3-4 years in early spring.

For landing, prepare:

• new pot;
• earth;
• drainage;
• mulch: coniferous litter, crushed coniferous bark, coniferous sawdust or peat (sphagnum can also be used);
• boiled water with the addition of potassium permanganate to a slightly pink color (for irrigation);
• a spray bottle with warm clean water (for spraying the leaves).

Landing rules:

• When planting, too long roots can be cut with sterile scissors;
• The root neck can be deepened by 2-3 cm;
• The soil is not dried during transplantation, part of the earth remains on the roots;
• After planting, the earth must be tamped so that there are no voids between the roots (this can lead to their drying out);
• When planting, the roots should be straightened down and not bent;
• After transplanting, some leaves may fall off the hydrangea - this is normal.

Landing stages

1. We take out the plant from the pot, carefully separating the earthen lump from the walls with a knife.

We shake off the excess earth from the roots and inspect them, if necessary, cut off the excess, dry and diseased.

2. We pour drainage and a little earth on the bottom of the pot, put a hydrangea in the center and fill the roots with earth 2-3 cm above the root collar.
3. We tamp the earth, if necessary, add the soil and spill it well. Spray the leaves with warm water.
4. Lay a 1–1.5 cm layer of mulch on top.

A few days after planting, the hydrangea needs to be fed with complex fertilizer.

Video: planting and growing potted hydrangea

Reproduction of room hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated at home by cuttings, dividing the bush or seeds. The easiest and most effective way is cuttings. Hydrangea propagated in this way blooms in the second year after planting. Rooting of cuttings occurs easily both in soil and in water.

Cuttings can be made from the end of May to September.

cuttings in the ground

For cuttings you need to prepare:

• sterile secateurs;
• drug Kornevin;
• substrate for planting (clean sand or infertile soil);
• small low pot;
• shelter (cellophane, cut plastic bottle, etc.);
• a spray bottle with warm water;
• turmeric or charcoal powder for cutting sections.

For cuttings, it is better to choose green, non-lignified shoots.

Step by step cutting process:

1. Cut off the selected green stalk.
2. We make a cut under the lower kidney.
3. We also cut off part of the branch above the upper kidney.
4. Cut off the excess lower leaves.
5. We cut the remaining leaves about half to reduce the evaporation of water.
6. We dip the lower cut into Kornevin and place the lower part of the cutting a little at an angle in a dry substrate by 1.5–2 cm. If you plant several cuttings, the leaves should not touch the soil and each other.
7. Wet the substrate abundantly from a spray bottle with warm water.
8. We dust the slices with turmeric or coal, cover the cuttings and put them in a shady, cool place for a month.

• it is necessary to check the condition of the substrate 1-2 times a week and spray it so that it does not dry out;
• the optimum temperature for rooting is + 18–25 ° C;
• a month and a half after rooting, the cuttings are planted in a more nutritious mixture (one per pot). Can be planted in regular soil for hydrangeas;
• for winter, cuttings are prepared for rest, like ordinary hydrangeas;
• in the spring, fertilize or spray the cuttings with nitrogen fertilizer for better growth until June 1 time per week;
• in May of the following year, after planting, the cutting can be cut to 2/3, for better branching.

Video: how to propagate hydrangea cuttings

Water root option

We perform the same actions as for rooting in the substrate, but we do not dip the lower cut of the cutting into Kornevin, but add this drug to the water at the tip of the knife. You can add the drug Methylene blue (sold in the aquarium department of pet stores). It conditions and disinfects the water, protecting against fungal infections. It is enough to slightly tint the water with them to a blue tint.

Hydrangea cuttings do not emit substances that greatly spoil the water, so you can not change it. but only add as it evaporates.

We put the stalk in water until the roots form and plant it in the ground after the roots grow a little.

Roots usually grow within a month.

The division of the bush

It is better to divide the bush in the spring, although this operation can also be performed in the fall (before or after flowering).

To split a bush:

• we take out the hydrangea from the pot;
• shake off excess soil;
• We check the roots, if necessary, cut off the dried ones.
• we are looking for a suitable place for separation and cut the bush with a sterile sharp knife;
• we plant delenki in the usual way.

Reproduction by seeds

Plants obtained from seeds bloom in the third year.

• Hydrangea seeds are sown in February in a mixture: 4 parts of leafy soil, 2 parts of peat, 1 part of sand, 1 part of humus;
• You can also sow in one of the purchased soils for hydrangeas (as well as conifers, azaleas, rhododendrons);
• Hydrangea seeds do not need pre-planting treatment, but for better germination in water, which you will moisten the soil with from a spray bottle, you can add Epin: 7–8 drops per half liter of water.

Step-by-step instructions for sowing hydrangea seeds

1. We sow the seeds superficially and evenly on a moist substrate.
2. From above, quite a bit (!) Sprinkle with sand. Wet with a spray bottle and cover with glass or other transparent lid.
3. We put in a warm, bright place (+ 18–28 ° C). But not in direct sunlight!
4. We monitor the humidity, regularly spray the substrate.
5. We ventilate every day for about five minutes, wipe the glass from condensation.
6. When shoots appear, remove the glass.

Seeds germinate within a month.

Seedlings are planted in the same substrate when the first pair of leaves appears on them.

When young plants have five leaves, they need to be planted again.

Small sprouts need to be fed 2 times a month with fertilizer from nitrogen and potassium (watered or sprayed).

The composition of the fertilizer: dilute half a teaspoon of urea (urea) in warm water, add a few granules of potassium permanganate (potassium fertilizer) until a slightly pink color is obtained.

Despite the fact that hydrangea care is quite complicated, it fully justifies itself when luxurious buds appear. No other flower can compare with the hydrangea either in size or in the brightness of the inflorescences.

Hydrangea (lat. Hydrangea) belongs to the Hortensia family, and has more than 70 species. It is valued for its variety of colors and unpretentiousness and many ways of self-breeding.

How to propagate hydrangeas

There are several ways to breed hydrangeas: green cuttings, layering, dividing the bush. The seed method is less commonly used, since growing a seedling takes about 2 years.

Propagation of hydrangeas with green cuttings

The cuttings are cut in July, when the buds are formed:

• choose the lower lateral last year's shoots;
• cut the rod in the morning;
• then the shoot is divided into parts, leaving 2-3 pairs of leaves on each;
• finished cuttings are placed in a solution of a root growth stimulator for a couple of hours;
• then they are planted in peat soil, and covered with glass jars.

Cuttings should be watered regularly. In a month, new leaves will appear on them.

Reproduction of hydrangea by layering

Layering is recommended to be done in the spring, before bud break. The soil around the bush is dug up and leveled, furrows are formed into which the lower side shoots are laid. They are pinned to the ground, and sprinkled with povoi. By October, the layers will form roots and sprout young shoots - then they can be separated.

Division of a hydrangea bush

The method is not applicable to paniculate hydrangea. In early spring, the bush is well watered, dug up, and washed off the soil from the roots. Then it is divided into several parts, and immediately planted in a new permanent place.

Seed propagation method

Growing from seeds begins in the fall:

• garden soil, peat and sand 4:2:1 are used as a substrate;
• sowing is covered with a thin layer of soil mixture, moistened, and covered with glass;
• planting is regularly ventilated and irrigated;
• the first shoots appear after 4-6 weeks;
• at the stage of development of the first leaves, the first pick is carried out;
• in May, a second pick is carried out, planting the plants in individual containers with a diameter of at least 7 cm.

During the summer, young sprouts are hardened in the fresh air, but without drafts and direct sunlight. So the seedlings grow for 2 years, regularly removing the buds - this will preserve the strength of the young sprout. In winter, flower seedlings are kept in a bright, cool place.

Growing hydrangeas in the garden

You can start planting in early spring, when the soil warms up enough. Depending on the climate, this period may occur in late April - early May, and in the northern regions, autumn planting of seedlings in the ground is recommended - in September.

Choosing a place to grow hydrangeas

Culture loves moisture and sunlight. It is good if groundwater is located close to the soil surface. Nutritious clay soil is ideal for growing, unlike sandy soil.

The best neighbors for a sprawling flower garden will be shrubs and trees. The lower tier can be filled with hosta and ferns.

Having chosen a place, you can begin to prepare the soil, oxidizing or deoxidizing it to the required level, and introducing the necessary minerals. This is done to change the color of the hydrangea buds to match the overall design of the garden.

Soil preparation for hydrangea

The most important feature of the plant is that the inflorescences can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil:

• the plant may have white and beige flowers - if the soil has a neutral pH level;
• lilac and pink inflorescences are characteristic of alkaline soil;
• blue and blue - for sour.

The brightness of blue hues depends on the level of iron in the soil, the more it is, the more saturated blue the flowers will be. To enhance the shade, the soil under the bush is watered with solutions of iron salts, and sprinkled with metal shavings.

In alkaline soil, iron is not absorbed by plants, so flowering takes on delicate pink tones. White inflorescences practically do not change their shade.

Planting hydrangea seedlings

Seedlings are placed in the soil along with an earthen clod, respectively, the size of the hole should be 2 times larger than it. A mixture of peat and soil is added to the recess with the addition of minerals and organics.

The roots of the seedling are slightly straightened, and planted so that the upper part of the root system is slightly above ground level. Then the planting is sprinkled with soil, watered and mulched with bark.

How to care for hydrangeas in the garden

The soil under the hydrangea bush should always be moist. In hot summer time, irrigation should be carried out twice a week with warm settled water in the amount of 30-40 liters under an adult bush.

Using mulch will retain moisture longer, so you can reduce the frequency of watering. The surface root system needs oxygen, so in spring and summer the soil should be loosened several times to a depth of 5 cm.

Fertilization under hydrangeas

• before flowering: 20 g of urea per bucket of water, the consumption rate is 3 buckets per adult plant;
• after flowering: top dressing with a complex mineral composition.

During the summer it is good to fertilize the soil with organic matter. It is important not to overdo it, as plants can activate uncontrolled growth.

Pruning various types of hydrangea

Plants that have reached 3-4 years of age are subject to pruning. The procedure is carried out in the spring before the start of active sap flow.

Tree-like varieties are pruned earlier than others: shoots are shortened at a height of 3-4 buds. The cut remains can be used as cuttings.

In paniculate hydrangeas, only last year's shoots are cut, shortening them by a third. Plant residues are used for propagation.

Large-leaved subspecies slightly rejuvenate and thin out: every 4th shoot is cut out to avoid thickening. Remove diseased, broken and growing shoots inside the bush.

Diseases and pests of hydrangea

Growing hydrangeas in the garden is rarely accompanied by disease. They are mainly associated with improper care, or depleted soil.

Hydrangea diseases

Hydrangea chlorosis - occurs when there is a lack of iron in the soil. The leaves turn yellow, the buds shrink. With chlorosis, the bushes should be watered with soft rainwater, and fed with iron-containing preparations.

White rot is a fungal disease that causes the plant to rot, the leaves and shoots turn brown, and are covered with a white bloom that looks like cotton wool.

With the defeat of septoria on the leaves, brown spots of a rounded shape are formed, which gradually merge. The affected leaf dies.

In case of fungal diseases, plants are treated with Fitosporin or copper sulphate.

Ring spot: a viral disease. Black spots of necrosis in the form of rings protrude on the leaves. There is no cure for viral hydrangea diseases.

Hydrangea pests

The most common hydrangea pests:

• snail grape and amber;
• spider mite;
• gall nematode.

Insects feed on leaves, buds and roots of plants. To combat them, insecticides and acaricides are applicable: Typhos, Lightning, Vermitek. Snails and their clutches are destroyed mechanically.

Prevention of diseases and pests of hydrangea

• compliance with the rules of care;
• acquisition of high-quality planting material;
• timely removal of dried and diseased plants;
• weed control;
• processing in the spring with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Preparing and sheltering hydrangeas for the winter

The culture has a superficial root system, which is prone to freezing. In autumn, it is necessary to prepare the flower garden for wintering. Bushes should be high up and well mulched.

In October, you need to take care of winter shelter. Young bushes are bent to the ground, and covered with roofing material, pressing the edges of the sheet with stones or bricks.

Adult bushes are tied and wrapped with spunbond. Around them, frames are constructed from a grid in the form of cones. The space between the net and the shelter is filled with dry leaves.

Outcome

Growing hydrangeas in the garden is very easy. The unpretentious culture develops well on different soils, has high winter hardiness, and does not get sick much. A unique feature of the plant - to change the color of the inflorescences depending on the acidity of the soil, allows you to use it in the design of any garden design.

Its variety of species and colors allows you to create a piece of paradise in any garden.

Hydrangea varieties grown in Russian gardens

• Anabel is the most common of the tree hydrangea varieties. It's been out for quite some time. The bush grows small and compact, its height is about one and a half meters. The crown is sprawling and has the shape of a dome, reaches a diameter of 3 m. The stem is bare gray. The leaves are very large, up to 30 cm long, bright rich green in color with a finely serrated edge. The foliage retains its color until frost. The flowers are white, round, about 2 cm in size, grouped in inflorescences-balls up to 30 cm in diameter. The flowering period is from early summer to September. The bush is characterized by rapid growth up to 10 cm per year. Frost-resistant. Prefers slightly shaded areas.
• Grandiflora- a magnificent bush of a tree-like hydrangea with a spherical crown, up to 2 m high and up to 3 m in diameter. The leaves are green ovate up to 10 cm. It blooms with corymbose inflorescences of small flowers. During the entire flowering period from July to September, the color of the flowers changes several times. At first they are light green, then turn white, and towards the end they become creamy. The growth per year is up to 30 cm. The plant prefers sunny places with little partial shade. Grandiflora loves moist soil and does not tolerate drought. Moderately frost-resistant variety.
• Shrub tree hydrangea variety Sterilis has a rounded shape, reaches a height of 2-3 m. The foliage is green on top, and has a bluish tint on the underside. Leaves with small notches and up to 20 cm long. Its annual growth is about 20 cm. The inflorescences are dense in the form of a hemisphere about 25 cm in size. The bush blooms with sterile light green flowers, which turn white over time. The plant prefers well-drained fertile soils, sunny areas with some partial shade. The winter hardiness of the variety is average.
• Kyushu- a variety of panicled hydrangea. The bush has a fan-shaped crown up to 3 m in size and grows up to 2.5-3 m. The stems are painted red-brown. The leaves, pubescent in rich green color on red petioles, are ovoid in shape. White flowers are collected in a wide panicle 15-25 cm long. Sterile flowers up to 2-3 cm consist of 4 white petals, which later turn pink. Honey shrub. The plant does not tolerate stagnant moisture in the soil and strong dry winds. Fast growing variety, prefers partial shade. Frost resistance is good up to -25 degrees.
• Vanilla Fraze- a very effective variety of panicled hydrangea. It is a low shrub with dark green foliage. Leaves ovate, rough. It has very beautiful cone-shaped inflorescences up to 30 cm, which stand out for their color. At the beginning of flowering, they are white, and by September, the bottom of the cone-inflorescence acquires a pink-strawberry hue, and the top remains white. A fast-growing plant, it recovers well after freezing. The shrub is able to withstand low temperatures down to -40 degrees.
• Lime Light- A fairly popular variety of paniculate hydrangea, memorable for its lime-colored inflorescences. Gradually, the color of cone-shaped inflorescences acquires a light lemon or white hue, and turns slightly pink by autumn. The foliage is velvety dark green. The bush has very strong stems capable of supporting the weight of large inflorescences. The variety does not require various supports and tying. The plant grows up to 2 m in height and width. The growth per year is about 25 cm. It prefers sunny and moist areas. It is frost-resistant, young bushes should be covered in winter.
• Pinky Winky- Belgian variety of panicled hydrangea. The variety is famous for its bright color of flowers and leaves. An important feature of the variety are strong shoots, so the plant does not need support. The bush of this variety is small compact, the crown has a rounded shape. Inflorescences are cone-shaped panicles of white color by autumn, acquiring purple tones. The change in their color occurs gradually, which allows you to observe flowers of different tones in one panicle. The leaves are dark green and hairy along the veins. The foliage also turns red-purple in autumn. Young bushes need shelter in the cold season. Mature plants tolerate frosts down to -25 degrees.
• White Ball frost-resistant bush of a large-leaved variety up to a meter high. It blooms in spherical inflorescences of snow-white color. The foliage is rich green, large. Flowers appear on young and shoots from the previous year. Prefers sunny places with some partial shade.
• Romance Blue- winter-hardy variety of large-leaved hydrangea. The plant grows up to 1.5 m. It blooms on the shoots of the new and last season with spherical inflorescences about 25 cm in diameter. The flowers are terry blue-blue. Leaves, elongated green. Likes sun, moisture and well-drained soil.
• Endles Summer- "Endless summer". The name is given due to the peculiarity of blooming not only on the shoots of the last season, but on the shoots of the current year. The bush is small, compact, up to 1.5 m. Depending on the acidity of the soil, the color of spherical inflorescences varies from blue to pink. The variety has good winter hardiness and does not require shelters.

How to distinguish types and varieties of hydrangea?

In reality, this is quite difficult to do. Species should be determined at the time of flowering, when all parts of the bush can be evaluated. Paying attention to the structure of the inflorescences, the ratio of sterile and fertile flowers, the color, shape and pubescence of the leaves, the degree of lignification of the stems, you can correctly determine the type of shrub and correctly select agricultural practices.

Positive qualities of hydrangea:

• due to the large species and varietal diversity, you can choose the most suitable shrub for your conditions;
• many different species allow the plant to be used as a hedge, in mixborders and flower beds of various types;
• hydrangeas are quite resistant to pests and diseases;
• after damage, the plant quickly recovers;
• can grow on soils of various fertility, tolerates close occurrence of groundwater, loves acidified soils;
• long flowering period;
• collected inflorescences can be used in dried flower arrangements;
• decoctions and tinctures from the leaves and root of hydrangea have medicinal properties.

Unfortunately, not all types of this beautiful shrub tolerate cold and can be grown in Russia. When keeping a hydrangea, you must strictly follow the rules of care, and then this beauty will delight you with chic flowering.

Kinds

Hydrangea

The place of origin of this species is North America. It is a shrub growing up to 3 m tall. The leaves are large, without pubescence, serrated, green above and gray below. Inflorescences appear on annual twigs, have a flat shape or the shape of a ball 15-20 cm in size. At first, the flowers are colored green, when fully bloomed, they turn white or cream. Prefers to grow in shady places, does not tolerate drought.

This variety is quite unpretentious, it is not afraid of frost and shading of the site. Due to its rapid growth, this variety quickly grows new shoots. In temperate climates, the plant blooms from July to November. The species is not very rich in varietal diversity.

Popular varieties of tree hydrangea:

1. « Annabelle» large sprawling shrub, tolerates wintering well, has beautiful lush white inflorescences. Leaves reach 15 cm, retaining their green color until frost.
2. « White Anna"- inflorescences from pale pink to purple.
3. « Grandiflora"- large snow-white inflorescences.
4. « Invisibell Spirit"- has large bright pink inflorescences that brighten over time.
5. « Incrediball"- white inflorescences, surprising with their large size, the bush reaches 1.5 m.
6. « Sterilis"- spherical white inflorescences.
7. « Pink Pication"- inflorescences are pale pink.
8. « White House"- a dense bush about a meter, an inflorescence is a shield in the center, of which fruit-bearing flowers are located, and sterile along the edge.
9. « Hayes Starburst"- double light green flowers in the form of a ball with a diameter of up to 25 cm. A bush up to 1.3 m high.

Hydrangea paniculata

Its distribution area is Japan, China, south of Sakhalin. It has the appearance of a shrub about 2 m tall, it can reach 5 m. The stems of the shrub quickly become woody, which allows the plant to endure wintering well. The leaves are elongated and pubescent. Flowers are formed on new shoots and look like a pyramid.

The inflorescence is a mixture of fertile and non-fertile flowers. At the beginning of flowering, they are painted in a greenish tint, then turn white, and by autumn they become terracotta or light purple.

The saturation of the color depends on the weather and the degree of illumination. The warmer and sunnier the weather, the brighter the hydrangea flowers.

The flowering of the shrub begins at the end of summer and lasts all autumn.

This species prefers slightly shaded areas in strong sunlight, the flowers become smaller. The species is not picky about the conditions, it tolerates frosts well even without shelter. The variety has a rich varietal assortment.

Varieties of panicled hydrangea:

To grow plants in pots, breeders bred low-growing varieties no more than a meter high:

• "Pinky Winky";
• "Brussel Leys";
• "Bomshel";
• "Last Post";
• "Darts Little Dot";
• "Bobo" (lemon-green flowers, turning pink over time).

Hydrangea large-leaved or garden

It grows wild in Japan, Sakhalin. The height of varietal forms is about 2 m. Low-growing varieties for pot growing have a height of up to half a meter. The bush winters poorly, the shoots become woody in the second year. Garden hydrangea does not tolerate limestone. Intense green foliage. Flower buds form in autumn.

For overwintering, the plant should be covered with straw, spruce branches or non-woven material. Be sure to remove the shelter in time in the spring, otherwise the plant may overheat.

Flowering begins in mid-summer. Flowers are about 3 cm.

Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea:

• « Japanese"- inflorescences in the form of an umbrella;
• « fickle"- flowers in the form of a hemisphere and change color depending on the reaction of the soil and the presence of metal ions in it. Due to this specific property of the changeable hydrangea, there are many varieties of this species. On acidic soils, the flowers are blue or blue, on neutral and alkaline soils - pink or red. For a brighter color, you can artificially change the reaction of the soil by adding iron sulfate or alum.

Frost-resistant varieties are remontant. The flowering of such varieties begins with buds on the shoots of the second year and continues on the stems of the current season.

Frost-resistant varieties:

• "Blue Haven";
• "Firewox Pink";
• "Mini Penny";
• "White Ball";
• "Coco Blanc";
• "Endles Summer" - white or blue flowers;
• "Romance" - double flowers;
• "Expression" - terry bright pink jagged flowers in the form of shields;
• "Ever Peppermint" - the flowers are light on the edge, and the middle is pink or blue;
• "Red Sensation" - red inflorescences and burgundy-colored stems.

petiolate hydrangea

Lianoid shrub up to 25 m long. For flowering, he needs a support to which it is attached with the help of aerial roots. The foliage is dark green, smooth and heart shaped. Fragrant flowers are collected in umbrellas 15-20 cm in size, the color varies from green-white to lilac.

Liana is frost-resistant, but in severe frosts it can be damaged. To avoid freezing, the young plant should be removed from the support and covered for the winter. It can also grow without support as a groundcover, forming a dense "carpet". Prefers a shady place. It is used for gardening arbors, decorating various slopes and walls.

Hydrangea variegated or variegated

This species is also called groundcover, Bretschneider hydrangea or Himalayan. The plant has strong woody shoots, milky-white viburnum-shaped inflorescences and elongated ovate leaves. The shoots are reddish in color and have hairs of exfoliated bark.

By autumn, the flowers turn pink-purple. The shrub is shade-tolerant, hardy and can tolerate dry times. It reaches a height of up to 3 m. Cut inflorescences look beautiful in dried flowers.

hydrangea oak-leaved

The species is named so because of the similarity of its leaves with oak. The foliage is rich green above, velvety and whitish below. By September, the leaves turn red. The bush grows no more than 1.5 m. The plant blooms with panicle inflorescences. In the cold season, it freezes and does not bloom. By cutting off the shoots in the fall, and covering the root system, the plant can be grown as an ornamental shrub with luxurious leaves.

Hydrangea ash or gray

The bush has good winter hardiness, moisture-loving. It grows up to 2 m. Inflorescences are corymbose from small sterile flowers. The leaves are oval in shape and pale green in color. Looks good as a hedge.

Hydrangea Sargent

An uncommon species that blooms with light lilac flowers collected in corymbs. The stems are reddish in color. The leaves are large up to 25 cm in length. After freezing, it builds up young shoots well and can bloom.

serrate hydrangea

Plant up to 1.5 m high with large inflorescences balls. Grows well in sunny areas. Inflorescences are bicolor. The shade of flowers will change depending on the acidity of the soil. The bred variety of this species "Blue Bird" or bluebird has blue-colored flowers and leaves. View when sheltered can tolerate frost.

Hydrangea radiata

Fast growing shrub about 2.5 m tall. It blooms in white clusters of flowers in the form of an umbrella. Leaves are lanceolate-oval. Flowering lasts no more than a month.

For growing shrubs in Russian gardens, it is better to take species and varieties adapted to the climate of Russia. The plant must have good winter hardiness. Otherwise, the bush will not please you with luxurious flowers.

Feel great in our climate zone tree-like and paniculate varieties of shrubs. The garden look is more whimsical and better suited for pot growing.

Hydrangea garden - a beautiful bush plant with abundant flowering and many colors. She is not very light-loving, prefers partial shade. Abundant watering and feeding should be required. Depending on the acidity of the soil, the shade of the inflorescence may change, which is often used in landscape design to create flower arrangements. In some varieties, several shades of inflorescence can be achieved simultaneously.

Show all

Hydrangea garden

Hydrangea is rightfully considered the queen of any garden; this capricious culture is a favorite of gardeners. An island of bushes of these flowers will make any shady corner in the garden attractive. Hydrangea (vessel of water) - comes from the Hydrangea family and belongs to the genus of flowering plants, which has more than 75 species of varieties. It got its name in Latin because it loves moisture very much.

This plant creates a feeling of beauty, lightness and airiness thanks to huge fluffy colored caps that look very beautiful if planted along the garden path. In the wild, hydrangea grows in Japan, China and South Asia, also in North America. In Russia, hydrangea can be found in the Far East, the Urals, the North-West and even the Moscow region. This plant blooms very beautifully, and after that it can be put in a vase as a dried flower, which looks gorgeous.



Plant appearance

Hydrangea has large inflorescences in the form of a ball or pyramid, they are paniculate or corymbose. They consist of two types: large sterile (sterile) that bloom at the edges. And small fertile (fertile), which are usually in the middle of the inflorescence and have small flowers.

It is thanks to such inflorescences that she became famous for her beauty. The size of the inflorescences is up to 30 cm, and each flower is up to 3 cm. The flower grows mainly in shrubs or trees, but there are also liana-like hydrangeas. Hydrangeas have opposite, large, oval-shaped leaves with a sharp apex, usually veined, serrated edges, and no scent.

Basically, the plant has white flowers, but the large-leaved hydrangea variety can bloom not only in white, it can be red, purple, blue, cream, pink and lilac. Hydrangea leaves are not inferior to flowers in their attractiveness. With proper care, they grow bright, large and juicy. The seed box has 2-5 chambers with small seeds, which are fruits. The height of the bush can reach two meters. Flowering begins in mid-summer and continues until late autumn. Garden hydrangea is usually planted in open ground, it tolerates frost well.



Hydrangea

The plant has bright green oval-shaped leaves and large spherical inflorescences 15 cm in diameter. This variety is one of the most unpretentious.

The most popular types include the following:

Variety	Description
Annabelle	The bush reaches a height of 1.5 m, the leaves are of a rich green hue, the flowers are spherical white, with a greenish tint by the end of the flowering period, up to 20 cm in diameter. Blooms from May to October. Prefers acidic soil and partial shade
Grandiflora	Spreading shrub reaching 2 meters in height. The leaves are light green, the inflorescences are cream, up to 20 cm in diameter. Flowering continues from June to September. The plant is frost-resistant, loves partial shade
Sterilis	The color of large (up to 25 cm) inflorescences gradually changes from greenish to snow-white, blooms profusely from July to October
Pink Bella Anna	A bush reaching a height of 120 cm, inflorescences are large, with a pink tint. The plant quickly adapts to any conditions and continues to bloom until frost. Does not need shelter even at very low temperatures
White House	Large snow-white inflorescences up to 25 cm in diameter delight with their presence from June to September. Spreading bush, up to 1.5 m in height
Invincible Spirit	The color of the inflorescences is pink, during the flowering period it changes shade from light to saturated (up to 20 cm in diameter). The plant is unpretentious, tolerates pruning and partial shade.



Paniculata

Bushes of this variety grow up to 1.5 m and have inflorescences that look like pyramids. It is considered quite unpretentious as for the middle band. Most of the varieties are frost-resistant and are able to recover even after the loss of a significant part of the shoots.

The best varieties:

large-leaved

The incredible beauty of the plant is due to the huge leaves and spherical flowering, but it must be looked after. Frost tolerant and direct sunlight. In winter, it is stored indoors, so they are planted in special containers.

The most beautiful varieties of large-leaved hydrangea:

Fertilizer

The types of colors depend on the pH level, flowers with a blue color grow on acidic soil, because it contains aluminum, which the plant absorbs, on alkaline soil - pink or lilac, and in neutral soil - white or cream. Therefore, if you need to create multi-colored flower beds, you just need to change the acidity of the soil under each individual bush.

In order for the plant to bloom in full force and continue to bloom all summer, you need to apply a complex of fertilizers, this can be done almost at any time of the year or 2 times a year - during the flowering period and after it. At the very beginning of spring, the plant is fed with a solution of 20 grams of urea per bucket, an adult bush needs 3 such buckets.

After the hydrangea has faded, mineral fertilizers are added. For the whole summer, the bushes fertilize with slurry from manure, but it is important not to overdo it, if you overfeed the flower, then large inflorescences will break the fragile branches of the plant with their weight.

If fertilizers were added to the hole when planting the plant, then the first two years the hydrangea can not be fed. Until July, it is necessary to introduce solutions that acidify the soil, these include potassium and ammonium sulfates, and from the beginning of July to the end of October, superphosphates and bone meal.

The high need for nutrients in hydrangeas is due to the fact that it is required for the flowering of chic inflorescence caps and high growth. It is good to dilute mineral fertilizers with organic ones, such as manure or cow dung, on a one-to-one basis. You need to feed one more time in 12-16 days. At the time when the hydrangea blooms, you also need to repeat feeding, this is done in order to prolong the process itself, and this also ensures the laying of new buds in the plant.

It is not recommended to use wood ash to feed the bushes. Suitable fertilizers for other plants, such as heather rhododendrons. An excess of nitrogen should not be allowed, it leads to a decrease in the winter hardiness of the plant, the development of rot and a deterioration in flowering. It is very important to know that if you overdo it with fertilizers, especially manure and mullein, which are considered organic, there can be more harm than with their lack.

Cultivation, care and planting in open ground

The best time for planting is spring, early May and autumn, in September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant a plant in a cold climate is only spring, and in warmer southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Garden hydrangea is usually planted in open ground, it tolerates frost well. He loves moisture very much, so you should always monitor this and not bring the soil to dry out. Watering should be plentiful, about 40-50 liters of warm and preferably settled water, preferably rain, it should be soft, because the hydrangea does not tolerate lime. Water from the tap is better to defend. Under each adult plant twice a week, at least two buckets are needed to water the bush.

You can not plant a hydrangea in direct sunlight, because of this, its petals can quickly burn out, the best place for this bush is a light shade or partial shade even in the midst of noon. Otherwise, its inflorescences will become small, and the plant itself will begin to slow down growth. Not only the irrigation regime is very important, but also the correct, timely pruning of a bush or tree.

It is important to prepare the hydrangea for frost, because even the best cold-resistant varieties really need shelter for the winter, they are covered with dry foliage or spruce branches, you can put a box or box on top. If the hydrangea is still frozen, you should not fall into despair, after the winter, with the onset of the vegetative period, it will certainly begin to recover. It is very convenient in that it is almost never affected by pests or diseases.

It is best to plant a bush street hydrangea after winter, in spring. You just need to wait until the soil begins to warm up and the time of night frosts has passed. A hole for hydrangeas must be dug fifteen days before planting. When planting, mineral and organic fertilizers are added to the dug hole; there must be loose soil. On the soil mixture (you can add sand and soddy soil), you need to put a hydrangea seedling, spread the roots at the desired depth, carefully fill the hole and compact the soil. Hydrangeas are usually planted singly or in lawns on the lawn. The distance between plants should be at least one meter.

After that, you need to water the shrub with water (10-12 l), it is advisable to sprinkle it with peat, bark or sawdust of 8-10 cm. In the first two years after planting, the inflorescence at the bud stage (“pea”) must be cut off. This is done so that the plant directs all its forces to the development of the aerial part and the root system, which will give better flowering next year.

The flower is covered from strong winds and direct sunlight. To keep the soil loose and to improve root growth, aeration is necessary. Several times in the spring and summer, you need to loosen the ground near the bush up to five centimeters deep. Although considered disease and pest resistant, hydrangeas are occasionally attacked by spider mites, powdery mildew, or aphids, most often indoors.

reproduction

There are several ways to propagate a plant:

• The division of the bush. It is best to do this in autumn or spring. The bush is dug up and divided into several parts, each division should have a renewal bud, after which the hydrangea is planted in prepared places in the holes.
• Winter cuttings. It is carried out only for garden large-leaved hydrangea. In October, the mother plant is dug up and planted in a pot, which is brought into a warm room. In early February, last year's shoots ripen, they cut cuttings with two internodes. Be sure to remove the lower leaves, the upper ones are cut in half. The cut is treated with a root formation stimulator, the cuttings are planted in pots, to which a nutritious soil mixture is added. Each stalk runs into glass jars or plastic bottles.
• layering. The shoot, which is not more than a year old, is bent to the ground and dug in. The top is left on the surface, the length of which is less than twenty centimeters. In the autumn or spring of the following year, when the shoot takes root, the mother bush is separated from the rooted shoot and transplanted.
• cuttings. Cuttings begin to be harvested in April or June. An annual shoot about 12 centimeters long is taken from the crown of the plant and cut at an angle. Leaves are removed from the lower part of the cutting, then it is treated with a growth stimulator, planted in a fertile mixture and brought into a greenhouse. In the first year after planting in a permanent place, the plant is covered for the winter, all flowers are cut.
• Today, hydrangea practically does not reproduce by vaccinations and seeds.

pruning

It is recommended to trim dry foliage, branches and faded flowers. Pruning of the plant in the spring is done only after 3-4 years. Also, the procedure is performed in the spring, when the kidneys are swollen. So that young shoots can endure the winter cold, they are cut to four buds. Old plants that already look like large bushes are cut off at the root so that the plant is renewed. If a hydrangea is formed when cutting cuttings, then after 4-5 years, as a result, a beautiful flowering tree grows instead of a bush.

In the first year, when the cuttings bloom, the flowers must be cut off so that the hydrangea gains strength and blooms profusely the next year.

The garden is transformed when garden hydrangea blooms. Planting and care, how difficult are they? A very beautiful plant! He has another name - macrophile hydrangea (hydrangea macrophylla). Gardeners around the world rightly consider it one of the most beautiful flowering plants. These are real aristocrats who reign in the gardens all summer. It is simply impossible to indifferently pass by the magnificent flowering hydrangea bush! The variety, the beauty of the shades of its flowers is really amazing. Even in the middle of the XX century. all varieties of this species were characterized by low frost resistance: they withstood frosts as low as -10°C. Therefore, lovers of hydrangeas had to be content with their reduced indoor copies.

Photo of blooming hydrangea:

Abundant flowering shrubs, photo

For the past 20 years, breeders have been actively working to develop frost-resistant hydrangea varieties that would withstand frosts of -25 ° C or even lower.

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, magnificent garden hydrangea shrubs today delight us with long, abundant flowering in different climatic conditions.

What is a hydrangea, what does it look like, a description of a shrub

Garden hydrangea is a deciduous shrub. The height depends on the variety - from 50 cm to one and a half meters. The flowers are collected in very large spherical inflorescences, 18-20 cm in diameter.

At the beginning of flowering, the inflorescences often have a barely noticeable light green color. And when flowering is gaining strength, they acquire bright blue, pink, lilac, purple, snow-white shades. Blooms depending on the variety from early June to October.

Among flowering ornamental shrubs that are used for landscaping gardens, parks and summer cottages, hydrangea is the undisputed leader in the duration of flowering. This period lasts for a plant on average about two months.

Planting hydrangeas, how to choose the best place

This is a large long-lived shrub that does not tolerate transplantation, so the place for hydrangea must be chosen especially carefully.

What does garden hydrangea love? How to grow hydrangea so that it brings joy? Unlike most species, the garden prefers partial shade. The best place for hydrangeas in the garden is one that is lit by the sun from morning to noon. It grows well, this shrub develops near the house or small garden buildings that protect it from the hot sun. In addition, in such a place in winter it will be sheltered from cold winds. It must be borne in mind that the less light enters the area where the plant is planted, the later flowering occurs, the fewer inflorescences will be.

In landscape design, hydrangeas are most often used as tapeworms in small green lawns, and low varieties look very beautiful, elegant as a hedge along the borders. A hedge of bushes looks especially bright, elegant, if you choose varieties with contrasting flowers or different shades of the same tone.

Some large-leaved varieties can be grown not only outdoors in the garden, but also in large pots or tubs on terraces or verandas.

Very often, a plant is planted at the entrance of a house or gazebo, where they look very festive, elegant. It looks great, this shrub also feels great on the shores of small natural or artificial reservoirs, because its decorative effect doubles due to reflection in the water.

When to plant hydrangea, planting dates

The preferred timing for planting hydrangeas in the garden depends on the region where you live.

Here, in the Kuban, it is better to plant in the fall, around the first half of October. The heat is gone, the seedlings will feel great and have time to take root before the onset of cold weather.

In central Russia, it is preferable to plant it in the spring, around the second half of April, when the earth thaws and warms up well.

In more northern regions, the best time for planting will be the month of May, approximately the middle of the month.

When choosing a seedling, pay attention to the root system. It must be well developed. Even better, if you purchase a seedling with a closed root system - the plant will be able to take root well in a new place without experiencing stress.

What kind of soil does hydrangea like?

This shrub prefers slightly to medium acid soils. However, they are not always found in garden plots, so before planting a shrub, prepare a special mixture to fill the planting hole from equal parts of leaf and sod land, peat and sand. After planting in the soil, the plant must be watered abundantly and, if possible, mulched with compost.

How to water garden hydrangea

This is a very moisture-loving plant, it is not for nothing that in Latin it is called hydrangea.

First of all, young plants (up to 2-3 years) need a lot of water. Frequent, plentiful summer watering of the shrub during this period allows you to maintain a more or less stable temperature on the soil surface of the near-stem circle. In subsequent years, watering the shrub should be sufficient and regular. Moisture deficiency or drought can cause marginal leaf burn, wilting of the entire bush, even its death.

Hydrangea fertilizer, top dressing, than to fertilize

In the spring, before the appearance of buds, like most flowering plants, it requires complex fertilizer, in particular nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, essential trace elements. Fertilizer, top dressing is required if you are counting on a lush, long flowering shrub.

Hydrangea has one feature - during flowering, new flower buds are laid. This means that the plant requires twice as many nutrients, which must be given to it during this period. Feed the shrub at this time with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (superphosphate and potassium sulfate), but you can not add nitrogen. This is necessary for the normal preparation of plants for wintering.

How to care for garden hydrangea? Garden hydrangea will gratefully respond to such care: watering with sour milk - whey, kefir, yogurt. Serum can be sprayed a couple of times per season on the leaves. It has already been said above that the plant prefers slightly or medium acid soils. And if the soil in your garden is neutral, then watering with sour dairy products or spraying with whey will respond with more abundant flowering, the bushes will become more magnificent.

And one more secret - periodically water your pet with a weak solution of potassium permanganate - this will give strength to the plant, flexibility to the branches.

Hydrangea pruning, is it needed?

Unlike other species, large-leaved garden hydrangea does not require pruning, since most varieties of inflorescences form on last year's shoots. That is why it is important to preserve them. The exception is spring sanitary pruning of frozen or damaged branches in winter.

Do not forget to carefully cut off the withered inflorescences immediately after the end of flowering. It is better to do this gradually, during the entire flowering period. Don't wait until the flowers are completely dry. This is best done after the inflorescences have completely withered.

Hydrangea care in autumn, preparation for winter

Since it blooms primarily on the last year's shoots, it is important to preserve them from cold or frost. To do this, we recommend covering young plants for the winter.

Firstly, within 2-3 years, the planted shrubs adapt to a new place, get used to the soil, winds, and the amount of sun received.

Secondly, transplanting a bush from a container into open ground is a kind of stress for him. Therefore, it is better to play it safe - to cover the plant for the winter. To do this, first we mulch the ground at the base of the bush with spruce branches or sawdust, and then we cover the branches with a special white agrofibre.

If you purchased a shrub with long branches, you must first gently bend them to the ground, secure with metal studs, and then cover them. Some gardeners use regular plastic vegetable crates to protect young plants from strong winds or heavy snow during the winter. Such a simple shelter allows you to save the branches without breakage.

Mature shrubs of new varieties can withstand fairly low temperatures, so it is not necessary to cover them.

Lush flowering, a healthy appearance of garden hydrangea suggests that planting and care are correct.