How to lay lining on the walls vertically. Ways of laying lining

The direction of the sheathing of internal surfaces - horizontally or vertically - matters only for wooden lining, since it largely determines its subsequent durability. Much less important is this for plastic lining. Other methods (“herringbone”, diagonally) are not considered further, if only because they sharply increase the complexity of the work and increase the consumption of material. In return, you can only get the originality of the final appearance of the surface. In this regard, it is appropriate to recall that of all types of finishing materials, lining (and especially from precious wood) is considered the most expensive.

Lining looks advantageous with any method of laying

Influence of laying direction on the ratio of the geometric dimensions of the room

Sometimes you want to change the proportions of the room, for example, make it higher/lower or shorter/longer. For large rooms, it is possible to install an additional interior partition. In other cases, the required visual effect can be achieved by nailing the boards in a certain sequence.

What are the ultimate possibilities for changing the direction of laying panels? It will be possible to “raise” the ceiling if we take the vertical direction of installation of the panels, and to make the room lower - if we lay the lining horizontally. It is important to adhere to the chosen laying direction around the entire perimeter of the room, since its arbitrary change (for example, one of the walls is sheathed vertically and the other horizontally) does not produce an aesthetically integral impression, although it can sometimes be justified by purely pragmatic considerations. For example, an abundance of openings, when vertical laying is associated with less material consumption than horizontal.

Horizontal skin

The external impression of a longer wall is usually created by one in the design of which there is a significant number of horizontal lines. Thus, it is quite possible to “lengthen” the wall if the material is nailed to it horizontally. Of course, the final decision can only be made after a thorough analysis:

• the ratio of the free surfaces of the walls of the room;
• mutual arrangement of door and window openings;
• the prevailing direction of natural light in the room.

The last factor deserves special attention. If the room faces south or southeast, then the sun's rays come in during the first half of the day. If panels are nailed horizontally in such a room, then as a result you can successfully get rid of the unpleasant effect of shadows in the gaps between adjacent lining boards. Accordingly, for rooms facing opposite sides of the world, a similar result can be achieved if the walls are sheathed vertically.

Finally, the vertical direction of laying allows you to mask the connecting elements of the board, which are placed in its end part. If you nail the material horizontally, then all the connecting parts will be visible.

Influence of the direction of laying on the durability of the skin

Under normal temperature and humidity conditions in the room, the laying direction - horizontally or vertically - does not affect the durability of the wooden lining, not to mention the plastic one. But this factor will be of great importance if you nail wooden boards in the bathroom or in any of the bath and sauna rooms. The same is true for exterior cladding or lining in an unheated room, for example, in a garage.

For the garage lining is also suitable as a finish

Consider the positive and negative factors of various ways of laying lining for rooms with sharply different microclimates.

The vertical arrangement of the panels can be achieved:

• facilitating the conditions for the natural removal of condensate from the walls;
• reducing material consumption (no need to cut "to size" of each panel);
• speeding up the installation process of the coating.

The horizontal placement of the lining provides:

• the same operating conditions for each row of boards;
• ensuring good ventilation of the room due to the presence of longitudinal gaps between adjacent panels of material;
• facilitating repairs when it is necessary to replace one or more boards that have become unusable.

At the same time, horizontal laying creates conditions for ensuring greater durability not only of the lining itself, but also of its frame, since when the boards are placed vertically, condensate will constantly accumulate on the crate beams. This means that in order to prevent the substrate from rotting when placed vertically on the crate frame, it will be necessary to attach additional lining bars, on which the crate will already be mounted. It is clear that the size of the room will decrease as a result.

The question - whether to lay the lining horizontally or vertically - is also important for ventilation. For example, with horizontal laying, natural ventilation deteriorates noticeably, therefore, it is necessary to equip the room with a forced supply and exhaust ventilation system, which is costly and time-consuming to arrange.

Summarizing all of the above, we can conclude that for rooms with a special mode of operation, it is more profitable to place facing panels not vertically, but horizontally, even if at the expense of the laboriousness of finishing work.

Ecology of knowledge. Manor: Among the many building materials, wood has always occupied, and, of course, will occupy a place of honor. No matter how the technologies and methods of wood processing change, there are probably no materials in construction that are more versatile than wood.

In a modern interior, the theme of “correct geometry” is popular among designers and decorators. The main position of the teaching is to achieve the most correct interior from a geometric point of view.

After all the preparatory work has been done and the logs are closed with guides, you can proceed with the installation. If you are doing it in a new, not yet settled, wooden house or in a bath, then you should leave a gap of one and a half to two centimeters between the panels and the ceiling. It is needed so that the shrinkage of the structure, which will definitely occur within two to three years, is compensated.

There are two options for how to properly join the lining along the length:

• in one line;
• with a run of seams, or in a checkerboard pattern.

In the first case, you get one vertical seam. It will need to be closed with a rail or strip (or any other profile) upon completion of installation. This design will look more advantageous and serve for many years.

In the second case, grinding of the ends of the part is required so that the seam is as little noticeable as possible. Each new row should start with the cut board in the previous row. In this way, a waste-free installation of the material will be achieved, which is obviously more economical.

Mount selection

To fasten the lining along the length, you can use both nails and self-tapping screws or kleimers. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Kleimer is a device designed specifically for this purpose, so if you want to make it easier to join the lining during finishing and repair, choose it. It slides into the groove of the lamella and is knocked out until it completely adheres to the board.

For fastening with nails, it is most convenient to use a finisher to avoid deformation of the edge of the board with hammer blows. The nail should be inserted into the groove at an angle of approximately 45 degrees and hammered to the middle with a hammer. After that, you can hammer it to the end with a doboynik. The disadvantage of this traditional method is that even using a puncher, it is rarely possible to avoid deformation of the groove edge. The second drawback is the lubrication that all the nails on sale are treated with: both hands and gloves will be dirty, and if you touch the raw board after that, you can easily spoil its appearance.

In order for the joints to look neat in the end, you should take a responsible approach to the choice of cornices and skirting boards, which can hide all the flaws and become the highlight of the interior.

Even the meaning of renovation rests on getting even parts of the room: walls, floor, ceiling. In our buildings, the walls are uneven from the beginning of construction. Sometimes it seems that they erected a building with their eyes closed: numerous waves, voids on the surface, which are not always easy to remove. So, if you are trying to make your apartment meet at least some standards, then quickly start leveling the walls.

We lay the lining correctly

It doesn’t matter what method you use to sheathe the walls, you still have to equalize them. Of course, the walls are often leveled with putty, but now this work is not cheap, it takes a lot of time, it is complicated by finding a master who will do an excellent job of stretching the walls.

And even with such an alignment of the wall, you may not achieve a successful result, because you cannot put a lot of gypsum mixture on the grossest wall defects. Many people choose drywall for the wall department, but this is only a draft version and it will be necessary to apply a finish on the walls in the form of painting, wallpaper, etc.

The easiest way is to hide uneven walls with clapboard or shalevka. It will turn out neatly, effectively and evenly. And here it is not particularly important what material you choose - because, regardless of whether your lining is made of wood or plastic, you will get the same result - a perfect even monolithic wall covering.

The main thing is how to lay the lining on curved walls correctly and follow the prescribed technological process.

Remember: lining on a bare wall is under no circumstances glued, nailed, screwed, especially if the question is about leveling the surface. This technology was invented by lazy people and "specialists" in cutting down easy money.

Reiki, profiles are sewn on the wall, mounted necessarily, only then a trim in the form of a shalevka is installed on the created frame. In addition to equalizing irregularities, space is needed between the curved wall and the finish so that moisture does not accumulate, ventilation works. Imagine that your wood panels will rot from the side of the wall? Will a fungus “grow” under the plastic or on the wall itself? Will you parse? You can’t argue with the coefficient of linear expansion, when the material expands under the influence of a temperature difference. And the video and photo on wall sheathing once again convinces of the need for a frame for shalevki.

Horizontal and vertical installation of a shalevka

When everything is prepared and you can proceed to the construction of the crate, it's time to decide: how your cladding will be directed, vertically or horizontally. The frame for sheathing is always installed perpendicular to the finish: the horizontal arrangement of the slats is the vertical arrangement of the rails, the vertical lining is a horizontally located structure.

The location of the cladding panels will follow the goal that you set by equalizing the walls. Building laws apply here: if you plan to visually expand the room, then sheathe it horizontally.

If you want to raise the ceiling - choose the vertical arrangement of the shalevka. Imagine that you are gluing striped wallpaper, the same with clapboard. So the question of how to lay the lining vertically or horizontally, you can decide by looking at interesting images of rooms with a horizontal or vertical arrangement of the shawl.

If you plan to independently sheathe curved walls with clapboard, then you will need to deal with the peculiarity of the vertical and horizontal arrangement of the finish.

Secrets of the masters

When planning the vertical arrangement of the shalevki, it is necessary to install the boards with heartwood outward, all traces of sawing should be correctly directed downwards. Such a sheathing will allow you to qualitatively finish all uneven and curved wall surfaces. The vertical arrangement of the shalevka must be started from the corner. Vertical trim works great on curved surfaces.

Horizontal boards are installed with the sound side outward, work on installing the trim should begin from the ceiling to the floor, trying to direct the grooves down. The distillation spike with such a lining will also be located at the top, thereby eliminating the accumulation of moisture.
It is very difficult to obtain curvilinear lines of the wall surface with this arrangement of the skin, in some places the boards will even have to be bent. During work, you must always check the already installed finish so that it is in a horizontal position. The sheathing ends at the floor, the last board must be measured in width and cut with an ax or a special saw.

Sometimes the location of the shalevka is fundamentally important, for example, in a bathhouse, sauna. In such rooms, it is better to give preference to the horizontal method, since the finish below will be in the most unfavorable conditions and the deformed place will definitely have to be changed. In a vertical position, it will be more difficult to replace the lining.

Advanced craftsmen sheathe the walls in an interesting way, setting the lining at an oblique angle - diagonally. Such walls look creative, non-standard. But this method will have to spend a lot of time, and without special skills, nothing will work. published If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to specialists and readers of our project.

The wooden finish of the house makes it more cozy and warm inside and out. However, this can be costly. Therefore, materials that imitate wood are more often used. The wagon does a great job with this. It can be mounted on ceilings, external and external walls of the house and even doors. There is a wide range of this material. The process is so simple to perform that lining the walls with clapboard with your own hands will not cause difficulties.

Classification

There are different types of distillation according to the type of material from which it is made.

Clapboard made of wood

It can safely be called a classic of the genre. There are a huge number of different subspecies of wooden lining, which differ in the type and breed of wood used to make it.

This is an environmentally friendly material that can be chosen for facing any surface. There are other positive qualities, such as environmental friendliness, lightness, ease of installation. However, when choosing a material, it is worth remembering that there are disadvantages:

• the influence of natural factors on the external state (temperature changes and high humidity deform the material), which requires processing with special means;
• the need for meticulous care.

Plastic lining

This option is considered budget. They can decorate the ceiling and walls. Has a beautiful appearance. Mounted without seams. The disadvantages include the fact that such lining is short-lived, can fade and turn yellow, easily collapse, especially in the cold. However, all the shortcomings of the material are offset by its low cost.

Metal lining

It is made from thin sheets of steel and aluminum, which are covered with protective materials. They differ in color and texture (it is possible to select a lining that imitates wood).

Aluminum lining is characterized by a long service life. Most often, it is sheathed with facades of houses.

Steel lining is budgetary, but short-lived. If the protective coating is damaged, then irreversible corrosion will begin, and the thin material will quickly rot.

Table: classification of lining by cross section

Ceiling rail, block house, floorboard and timber imitation also often refers to subspecies of lining. This is because these materials are manufactured and fastened in the same or similar way.

Photo gallery: different types of material by section

When installing such a lining between the slats, there will never be gaps
Differences of lining calm from the standard is only in the presence of rounded bevels
Eurolining is produced in Europe, Russia and Belarus
Combines the features of eurolining and "calm"

Table: division into classes

Table: material classification by wood species

The lining is made from deciduous and coniferous wood. Each of them has certain characteristics that may be suitable for a particular place of cladding.

Preparation for sheathing the walls of the house

The first stage of facing a log or brick house is the preparation of walls and material:

Stock up on all the necessary tools and materials in advance. You will definitely need a hammer, a building level, a puncher, a screwdriver, a tape measure and a jigsaw.

Which mounting method to choose

Usually the lining is equipped with a tenon-groove system, which allows you to fasten the planks well to each other. However, the material must also be fixed on the crate. This can be done with staples, clamps, screws and nails. The mount can be placed openly or hidden. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the entire structure is well fixed, and the lining is not damaged.

Kleimers

Kleimers will fix the lining with the highest quality. But it is important to choose the right size of nails. It is selected depending on the thickness of the grooves. Often, clamp sets already have nails.

Video: how to fasten the lining with kleimers

Mounting gun with staples

Staples are fired from a pistol into the groove of the board and securely fix the lining to the frame part. But it is very difficult for beginners to do it the first time.

Decorative screws

Qualitatively fastens the boards, while the aesthetic beauty of the material is not lost.

Nails and screws

Both those and others should be fastened diagonally. So, the rail is clamped into the groove of the previous strip of material, and the cap presses it to the base.

Material calculation

An example of calculating materials for a room with dimensions of 5x4x2.5 m.

• length (A) - 5 m;
• width (B) - 4 m;
• height (C) - 2.5 m.

Using these parameters, you can calculate:

• A * C \u003d 5 * 2.5 \u003d 12.5 m 2 (the area of ​​​​one of the walls);
• 12.5 * 2 \u003d 25 m 2 (the area of ​​\u200b\u200btwo opposite walls);
• A * B \u003d 5 * 4 \u003d 20 m 2 (the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe second wall);
• 20 * 2 \u003d 40 m 2 (the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe other two opposite walls);
• 40+25=65 m 2 (total surface area to be finished).

To find out how much material is needed for such a room, you need to determine the size of one lining plank.

How to clad the walls with your own hands using the horizontal placement of the lining

The work is carried out in several steps:

How to sheathe walls if you place the lining vertically

Wooden facade cladding

When facing a house from a log house, there are some features

If you plan to paint the walls of the facade after cladding, then you can purchase a middle-class lining for finishing. Otherwise, it is better to take a better quality lining, since all the flaws will be visible (even if the surface is varnished).

Perform the work in the following sequence:

The process of cladding the walls of the facade does not differ from the interior decoration.

Windows, protruding corners and skirting boards can be decorated with decorative elements for beauty.

Material handling after installation

Choose only high-quality processing tools.

You will need:

Ideally, the surface treatment of the facing material should be done before its installation.

Perform the work in the following sequence:

1. Clean the surface of the wood from dirt, dust and fungus with a steel or hair brush, and then with fine-grained sandpaper.
2. Treat the planks with an antiseptic and primer. These funds can be found 2 in 1.
3. Paint or varnish the surface. But before proceeding to this stage of work, wait until the previous layer dries well.

You can easily finish the walls of your house both outside and inside, using lining for this. There are practically no difficulties. The main thing is not to be afraid and boldly follow the instructions.

Lining today is one of the most popular materials for home decoration, and it will be useful to learn how to mount eurolining on your own without outside help. It should be noted that this process is quite time-consuming, but, despite this, everything can be organized by hand.

Preparatory work

In order to avoid problems during the installation process, you must know a few rules, the implementation of which is mandatory:

• it is necessary to properly store the lining. It should be in a package, in a room without strong temperature changes, so that the sun's rays do not fall directly on the material, and most importantly, the room where the lining will be stored should be dry;
• two days before the start of work, you must get the material out of the package;
• before starting repair work, it is necessary to remove all dust and dirt from the material. This can be done with a dry cloth;
• do not forget to treat the lining with an antiseptic and leave for a while - so that it dries;
• do-it-yourself installation of eurolining can be done at temperatures not lower than + 5 ° C, while the humidity should not exceed 55%;
• in the event that you will cover the lining with any decorative coatings, the best option would be to complete this work before you proceed with the installation, then the material will be painted evenly.

Advice! Do not use varnish for painting eurolining, which is intended for use in baths. Choose compositions for outdoor or indoor use - depending on the use of panels.

We calculate the material

In order to correctly calculate the required amount of material for wall and ceiling sheathing, you will need to take into account the dimensions of the surface that you will be sheathing and the width of the board. It must also be taken into account that the spike of the longitudinal type in the process of attaching the board to the wall or ceiling will go into the groove of the previous board, which means that its width will decrease by 10-12 millimeters.

Example:

1. Sheathed surface 2.5x4 m.
2. The width of the board is 96 millimeters.
3. We take into account the insertion of the spike into the groove, we get: 96-10 = 86mm.
4. Further calculation is carried out according to the formula: 4000/47 \u003d 47 boards of 2.5 meters each.
5. We fix the lining on the wall.

In order to create a stylish interior in a room, you must strictly follow the rules for attaching eurolining. If you do not deviate from the instructions, in the end you will get a beautiful design, and the lining will serve you for a long time.

You must understand that you can attach the material directly to the wall only in the case of perfectly flat surfaces (unfortunately, walls and ceilings are very rarely perfectly flat), moreover, they must be made of wood.

On walls made of brick and reinforced concrete, it is strictly forbidden to mount eurolining, therefore, in order for a beautiful eurolining construction to be created on your walls or ceiling, you need to install a crate of wooden beams.

We install the crate

The crate is wooden slats, most often their thickness is about 30 mm. They are attached to the ceiling, floor or wall, thereby forming the so-called frame for the further installation of the lining. The installation of the crate should be perpendicular to the fastening of the lining. To make it clearer, let us explain: if the lining is mounted vertically, then the battens of the crate should be located horizontally, and vice versa.

Reiki are fastened from each other at a distance of 60-80 mm, this is if you make a frame on the wall. If you install the crate on the ceiling or floor, then this distance will be 40 mm.

Tip: Do not forget, during the installation of the crate, you must use a level or plumb line to make the whole structure even.

Some do not understand why such a design as a crate is needed. After all, installing it takes a lot of time. In fact, it is necessary for several reasons.

If you want your interior to be perfect, even and proportional, then installing a crate is a mandatory step in creating a composition from. The second reason is the presence of ventilation of the boards, which is necessary for the normal functioning of the air in the room.

Do not forget! Ideal slats for creating a frame - 35x55 mm. They should not have any defects and they should be even.

How to fix the lining

There are several ways to fasten the lining, which we will now present to you. The design should be smooth and beautiful.

Fasten with screws:

• To begin with, you must drill a small hole in the lining to secure the self-tapping screw, and this must be done from the side of the spike;
• when we make the installation of lining. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the holes we made. Do not forget to cover their hats with a dowel;
• If the dowels protrude, after all the work they are cut off. Don't forget to sand the surface afterwards.

Staple fastening:

• In this way, the material is usually attached to the ceiling from the floor.
• Fastening is carried out using a stapler, which drives the staples at an angle of 45 ° into the spike, thereby making it possible to install subsequent boards without interference.

Fasten with nails:

• This method is not much different from the previous one.
• The difference between them is that in this method, instead of brackets, they use .
• In order to keep the nail heads from sticking out and not being visible, you will need a tool like a puncher, because the protruding heads will not give you the opportunity to continue with the installation of the next board.

Fasten with dowels:

• The considered method involves mounting from below, and nothing else.
• We fix the first board from below with self-tapping screws, and from below. Do not forget to twist the hats with a dowel.
• After the work done, we proceed to the installation of the next panel. In the upper part of the previous board, directly into the spike, we screw the self-tapping screw, and so that its cap is flush with the spike itself (with its surface).
• On top of the attached board, the next one is superimposed, which, in turn, closes the fastening of the previous one. That is why the method is called secret fastening. It should be noted that the use of both staples and self-tapping screws is appropriate here.
• After the installation process is over, you can start cutting the protruding dowels. If you do the whole process correctly, you will end up with a flat and smooth surface.

Any of these methods will give you a positive result, but only if you do everything correctly and consistently.

So, the instructions for fastening eurolining:

• Let's start by taking one panel - we will set it strictly vertically. In order for everything to turn out clearly, it is necessary to use a level, and throughout the entire process, this is the only way you will ensure that the entire structure you are building will be even.
• Do not forget that you will need to fasten the first board precisely from the corner (on which side it does not matter, you want it on the right, but you want it on the left).
• The boards that you will expose next should be attached to the side of the previous board with a spike. We fix the board in any way you choose. If you have any questions, please see our

Lining is perfect for finishing ceilings, exterior and exterior wall cladding and even door cladding. Regardless of the cladding object, the panels are attached according to the same scheme. At the same time, you can easily handle the installation of the lining with your own hands. Read the basic instructions and get started.

First step

Prepare the lining for the upcoming installation. Soak the material with an antiseptic and fire retardant. If desired, you can additionally process the panels with stain or paint the desired color.

Let the treated lining dry and bring the material into the room to be finished. Leave for a day. Wood adapts to environmental conditions, which eliminates the risk of its further deformation.

Second step

Mount the crate on the surface to be trimmed. Buy slats or make your own from inch boards or 5x5 cm timber. Fasten the elements of the crate in increments of 10-20 mm less than the width of the future insulation. Fix with screws or self-tapping screws. The step of placing the fasteners is half a meter.

Control the evenness of the frame with special tools.

Third step

Cover the crate with waterproofing material (polyethylene film, fastened with a construction stapler), place insulation in the cells (if required, the best material is mineral wool, lay tightly, without gaps), and then cover the heat-insulating layer with vapor barrier material (attach to the crate with a construction stapler).

Fourth step

Attach a second crate to the wooden crate for insulation, designed already directly for fixing the lining.

Fasten the bars or boards perpendicular to the future sheathing and at the same time perpendicular to the frame for insulating materials. That is, the method of fastening the skin (horizontally or vertically) must be determined for yourself even before the fastening of the first crate.

Treat the elements of the crate with an antiseptic.

There are several options for fixing boards, while mounting panels can use different fasteners. Read the information below and get started.

Mounting options

Choose the method of fixing the lining at your discretion. Factory lining initially has spikes and grooves that allow each subsequent sheathing board to be fastened to the previous one.

To fix the lining, you can use staples, clamps, screws and nails. The fastening itself can be done covertly or openly.

Mounting method, as already noted, choose at your discretion. The main thing is that the fixation is as reliable and of high quality as possible, while the lining itself remains undamaged. Embed the heads of nails and screws into the wood.

The most accurate and at the same time the most complex method of fixing the sheathing involves nailing directly into the grooves of the lining. So the nails will be almost invisible.

Cleimers are perfect for high-quality fixing of boards. Choose the right type of fasteners according to the thickness of the grooves of your decorative boards. On one side of the kleimer there are teeth - with them the fastener cuts into the grooves of the finishing material. On the other hand, the kleimer must be nailed or screwed to the frame. As a rule, nails are initially included in the set with clamps.

Also available is the option of fastening the lining, which involves the use of special brackets. In this case, a mounting gun is used. The bracket shoots through the groove of the board and fixes it to the frame. To perform such an installation, you need to have the appropriate skills.

The lining is treated with the necessary impregnations, the battens are installed, the necessary insulating materials are laid, the installation method is selected. Now it remains only to mount the lining directly.

Decide on the optimal direction for placing the cladding elements - this has already been discussed earlier.

Focus on your preferences and features of the room. For example, horizontal trim allows you to visually expand the room, making it visually more spacious.

When placed vertically, the lining will visually increase the height of the room.

First step

Proceed to fastening the lining. Start sheathing the walls in the direction from the ceiling to the floor. At the same time, try to direct the grooves down - thanks to this, various debris will not get into them in the future, which will contribute to a significant increase in the service life of the skin.

Second step

Fix the lining sheet on the crate bars. Use convenient fasteners. Insert the spike of the next sheathing element into the groove of the fixed board. Fasten it. Sheathe all the planned space in this order.

Every 5-10 cladding elements, be sure to check the evenness of the surface with a plumb line or level.

Third step

Having reached the last board of the lining, adjust it in width with a regular hacksaw or other suitable tool. Nail the board and hide the gap under the decorative baseboard.

Fourth step

Clean the surface of the finish from dust with a damp sponge. If you wish, you can finally paint the lining, but this is not necessary - the wood already has an attractive appearance and a beautiful shade.

If a special lining will be used for sheathing, which externally imitates a rounded log, start finishing with the groove up - this way you will hide the joints.

Additionally, the panels can be adjusted with a hammer, placing a piece of board under it - so the finish will be fixed without cracks.

To fasten the "rounded" lining, use self-tapping screws. Screw fasteners at 45 degrees. Between the panels of such sheathing, place the treated timber. This will create a beautiful finish without gaps.

First step

Start fastening the lining boards from the corner. The first board of the lining in the corner must be fixed with nails. The fastener caps will later be hidden under a decorative corner. If you don’t want to buy a corner, simply bite off the hats with a side cutter.

Second step

Continue fixing the cladding boards until the entire planned surface has been clad. Work as with horizontal trim, inserting one element into another and fixing one by one.

Third step

When you reach the last board, cut it to size and nail it to the frame.

In conclusion, it remains only to decorate the skin with special slats, plinth, and also corners - these elements allow you to hide the joints and arrange the corners normally.

The ceiling is sheathed with the material in question in the same order as the walls. The only remark is that the lining should begin to be fixed from the window opening to the opposite wall. With this placement, the shadows between the cladding elements will be less noticeable.

Thus, there is absolutely nothing complicated in self-assembly of the lining. To extend the life of the sheathing, re-treat it with an antiseptic and fire retardant every 2-3 years. For the rest, follow the instructions, and you will create the highest quality, durable and aesthetically attractive finish.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself lining installation