Do-it-yourself septic tank from metal barrels. How to make a septic tank with your own hands from barrels using plastic containers as an example

At the dacha, which is rarely used, they usually do not arrange an expensive industrial septic tank. An alternative is wastewater treatment plants made from inexpensive plastic or metal barrels. The article tells about the structural features of such structures.

Manufacturers offer cleaning devices with different performance and a wide price range. Many owners of summer cottages prefer to make them with their own hands. The option is in demand for good reasons:

• cost savings - they purchase material at a low cost, including used ones, choosing where it is cheaper;
• use of the capacities available on the farm;
• the possibility of using a modular scheme - options for future changes and additions are calculated in advance.

Feedback from Golodov A.N. At the dacha, he first set up a septic tank from barrels for the toilet. Then he connected the bath, kitchen, washing machine. To do this, I prepared the connection points in advance: I cut the pipes into containers and drowned them out for a while.

How does a sewage plant work

A self-made design consists of several containers located nearby. They are connected by pipes. Sections are filled sequentially, which is achieved by installing an overflow at different heights. Wastewater treatment is carried out mechanically:

• large particles settle in the first barrel;
• the clarified liquid from the filled container flows into the second one;
• it can be final and serve to filter the liquid into the soil;
• with a three-chamber version of the septic tank, additional cleaning takes place similar to that in the first section.

In the last barrel, the bottom is cut out, a backfill is made of crushed stone, gravel or sand, which serves as a filter. Layer thickness up to one meter. The first containers remain sealed.

It looks like a two-chamber septic tank with access to the filter field

Removal of clarified effluents into the ground provides optimal results, but with a close location of groundwater, the method is unacceptable. To ensure environmental safety, they arrange a filtration field. These are perforated pipes, insulated with geotextiles, which are buried in trenches. The exit is made from the last chamber.

The most common and effective three-section scheme. If the drains are kitchen or come from a bath, two containers are enough for a washing machine. Such waste can also be cleaned immediately in the last chamber by connecting pipes directly to it, bypassing the previous ones.

Important! Drains from the toilet must be filtered according to the full scheme.

Characteristics and cost of materials

Plastic or metal containers are suitable for sewage. To anticipate possible errors in installation, you should be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of materials. A comparison table will help you understand:

Plastic		Metal
pros	Minuses	Advantages	disadvantages
Light weight, easy to deliver and install	It is required to securely fix it on the foundation so that the spring flood does not destroy the system	Robust construction, no need for additional fastening
	Frost can crush the container	Rigid, not afraid of exposure to cold
Fully sealed		Waterproof if walls and bottom are intact
Not afraid of corrosion and the harmful effects of chemicals contained in drains			Over time, they are destroyed by rust, the service life depends on the reliability of the treatment with an anti-corrosion compound

Products from under other liquids which are on sale wholesale and by the piece are used mainly. Used prices are low. There are few manufacturers of new barrels for the construction of a small septic tank.

It is better to buy unwashed barrels of fuel, lubricants. They form a film on the inner surface that protects against corrosion.

Manager of the company "Second-package" V.N.Martynov

Cost table for barrels per 200 liters:

The right choice of volume and location of construction

Normalized water consumption - 200 liters per day per person. The capacity of the septic tank is calculated for 72 hours. During this time, the construction of three 200-liter drums processes such a volume. With regular use of water in large quantities, this is enough for one person. In fact, consumption is less, it can be reduced by using, for example, a shower rather than a bath. Structures of this type are used mainly for cottages with temporary residence or for a bath. The volume is increased by the device of three chambers, not two.

The larger the capacity of the camera, the farther its location from home

The second requirement concerns sanitary rules. Distance from wells or wells 30-50 meters, fruit-bearing trees, berry bushes, vegetable garden - 3 m. To the road - 5 meters.

Preparation of everything necessary for construction

Acquire materials. The main ones include:

• sewer pipes 110 mm;
• fittings, turns for the highway - the number is determined by the project;
• barrels.

It is advisable to buy thick-walled containers in order to achieve a rigid connection with pipes. With thin material, the tightness may be broken due to soil pressure.

Purchase other consumables. They take care of the insulation of the chambers in advance in order to protect them from freezing - they buy thermal insulation. Seam sealer needed . It is recommended to use automotive polyurethane, silicone short-lived. The foundation for the barrel requires cement, sand, gravel. The fittings can be from any iron bars, it is not necessary to weld, just twist with wire. Sand is required without clay and organic impurities.

After choosing a place and acquiring materials, they begin construction.

Construction of a septic tank from plastic barrels

Start by preparing the containers. In one filtration cut out the bottom using a jigsaw or grinder. All chambers are connected by pipes, so holes with a diameter of 110 mm are cut out in the sidewalls. The inlet to the first container is located higher, all the rest are 10–20 cm lower than the previous one.

If the construction of a filtration field is planned, then two holes are cut out in the last barrel at an angle of 45 ° to one another. Drainage pipes are subsequently connected here.

The depth of each trench exceeds the previous one by 10 cm

Having outlined circles, the diameter of which is 25 cm larger than the size of the barrels, they begin to dig a pit. All containers are placed on the same line with a distance of 30 cm between them. First, they dig a hole for the first barrel.

The bottom of the first hermetic pits is covered with a layer of sand 10 cm thick and rammed. Next, the reinforcement is laid, slightly raised above the surface. The ends of the rods are bent and brought out above the expected thickness of the concrete. Barrels are then tied to them, or the second option is used, when hooks are poured with a solution.

Advice. An alternative option is threaded studs. Hooks are made of them, metal plates are fixed with nuts in a straight section, fixed in a cement mortar.

The last filtration chamber. It is covered with a layer of river sand of 30 cm, on top - crushed stone or pebbles, expanded clay. The total thickness is adjusted to 0.8–1 m.

Proceed to the installation of barrels:

1. Installed in the pits of the container. Fix on the foundation by one of the methods described above, insulate.
2. Cover with removable lids. They serve to pump out wastewater when needed.
3. Above the barrels, ventilation is constructed from a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. The minimum quantity is above the first, but it is better to supply everything. Then the unpleasant smell will not be heard.
4. The containers are connected by pipes, observing the slope. All joints are sealed with sealant. If it is automotive, the surface can be painted.

Hatches rise above the surface to a height of up to 20 cm

Backfill the pit with dry sand and cement. It is important to avoid mistakes. In order not to crush it, a little water is added to the barrel, the space is filled in layers with the mixture and rammed.

Features of the installation of metal barrels

It is easier to buy iron containers, especially if they have been used before, than plastic ones, and cheaper. Installation is almost no different, the procedure is the same. Larger chambers are built from metal barrels, installing one on top of the other. You will need a welding machine and the ability to own it so as not to involve third-party help. Stiffeners are installed at the joints. Their absence sometimes leads to squeezing of the container, especially with thin walls.

The volume of the septic tank is doubled by installing one barrel on top of another

Pipes can be used plastic, covering the seams with sealant. To cut holes, it is better to use a jigsaw and a metal file. It is more difficult for a grinder to achieve a round shape. Before installation in pits, the surfaces are protected on both sides with bitumen or anti-corrosion paint. It is advisable to remove the rust earlier. Anchoring containers is not necessary, but it is better to do it - it is simple and easier than with a plastic barrel.

Answers on questions

Question number 1. Is it necessary to fix the filtration chamber, because there is no foundation at the bottom?

It is better to fix in order to avoid extrusion by frost or ground water. It is done in a slightly different way. 3-4 iron rods are hammered into the bottom. A barrel is tied to them on belts.

Local sewerage with its own treatment plant will allow you not to break away from civilization in settlements that do not have elementary infrastructure. If you make a septic tank with your own hands from barrels as an object of cleaning, the cost of improvement will be minimal. But for a successful result, technological subtleties are needed. Is it true?

For everyone who wants to acquire an autonomous sewage system on their own site, we offer useful information that thoroughly covers all aspects of its construction. The practical application of the information provided by us is a guarantee of a long service life and flawless operation of the system.

An interesting article presented to your attention introduces various constructive types of home-made septic tanks. It describes in detail the technology for constructing a wastewater treatment plant from waste barrels. Construction methods are illustrated with simplified graphics, photo and video applications.

Despite the fact that manufacturers offer a fairly wide range, the design and construction of home-made septic tanks (for example, from barrels) is quite relevant.

The option of a hand-held device is in demand for the following reasons:

• the ability to minimize costs by purchasing components, as they say, out of order - where it is cheaper, and secondly, using the already available improvised means;
• installation of equipment can be carried out according to the so-called modular scheme, having previously calculated options for adding and complicating the system.

Let's say you equip the toilet first. In the future, connect a bathhouse, a sink in the kitchen, even a sink in the garage to the cleaning system. Of course, this will be easily feasible only if the “tie-in” points are prepared in advance - pipe outlets brought to the surface or close to it, reserved for a while.

The construction of a septic tank from barrels will allow, at minimal cost, to organize an autonomous sewage system with the disposal of neutralized and clarified effluents

No one better than the master who built the septic tank knows the weaknesses of the treatment system and its capabilities. Although you should not make shortcomings, but only he will take them into account during operation.

It is no secret that manufacturers and sellers of any equipment, as a rule, do not inform buyers about the shortcomings, “sticking out” only the merits. An independent builder will know what can let him down.

Knowing the approximate norms of water consumption by the family, taking into account the frequency of residence and the characteristics of the site around the house as a whole (type of soil and groundwater level), you can avoid both unnecessary effort and money, and “accidents” caused by poor cleaning system throughput.

A septic tank from barrels works on the principle of multi-section settling tanks, which, as a result of overflow and settling, ensure the separation of wastewater into water and sludge. After leaving the septic tank, clarified and purified up to 65% water is discharged into the ground, and sludge accumulates at the bottom of the septic tank until it is pumped out by sewers

You will learn the subtleties of the construction of a septic tank that works without odor emission and does not require pumping out from our other site.

Varieties of designs and schemes

A home-made septic tank constructed from barrels consists of several containers (chambers) installed in a given order. They are connected in series with each other by branch pipes so that the filling of the sections is carried out in a strictly defined order. This is achieved by installing cameras at different height levels.

The principle of operation of a multi-chamber septic tank is similar to the principle of operation. The entrance and exit of pipes into the chambers is done in such a way that water begins to flow into the next tank before the water level rises to the inlet pipe.

Gradually accumulating in the chamber, the water settles. The heaviest particles of pollution settle at the bottom of the tank, smaller and lighter ones continue their way through the system.

For free flow of sewage to the septic tank and from chamber to chamber, the sewer line is arranged with a slope. The slope must be observed at each site, including the sections between sections of the septic tank

In order for the methane formed during the processing of wastewater to be freely removed from the system, it is necessary to arrange ventilation. It is installed vertically at the exit from the house or at the exit of their last section of a homemade septic tank.

In addition, on the drain of water from plumbing fixtures, sinks, toilets, showers, etc., it is necessary to provide a siphon - at least made in the form of a “knee” - so that an unpleasant smell does not poison the existence.

The principle of operation of the septic tank is based on the gradual separation of solid insoluble components and the liquid component of wastewater. The more sections the sewer passes through, the higher the final degree of cleaning.

The most common is a three-section septic tank scheme used for processing gray and brown waste streams. However, if it is necessary to purify the contaminated water coming from the bath or kitchen, the use of one or two barrel sections will be enough.

Purified and clarified effluents from the septic tank flow into the soil post-treatment system, for example, it is disposed of through the filtration field

From the last barrel, they arrange an exit to the filtration field, which completes the cleaning process. This post-treatment system is an underground structure assembled from perforated pipes - drains.

The drainage pipeline is laid in trenches specially selected for them, lined with geotextile, on top of which pipes are laid and sand and gravel mixture is covered.

The function of ground aftertreatment of gray drains supplied by bathhouses, washing machines, kitchen drains, etc., can be safely entrusted to an absorption well built in the last barrel of the sewer system. In this case, the bottom is cut out from the tank, and it is filled with gravel and sand so that the layer of this backfill is at least 1 meter.

If the amount of runoff does not exceed 5–8 m³ / day, then the third section without a bottom, filled with a layer of 1 m of sand and gravel, can be used as a soil post-treatment system. Absorption (filtering) wells are arranged using this method.

As you can see, the scheme is quite simple, but its implementation in practice will require a lot of physical effort. Particularly time-consuming work is associated with the development of a pit for sections of a septic tank and trenches for a sewer pipeline.

The calculation of the volume of wastewater is based on the rate of wastewater discharge per person in l / day. A single-chamber septic tank is built with a sewage volume of up to 1 m³ / day, a two-chamber septic tank is built for 5 - 8 m³ / day

Construction of a septic tank from plastic barrels

Home-made treatment structures can be divided into groups according to the material from which the chambers are made, these are septic tanks:

• from plastic barrels;
• from metal containers (welded cubes, cylindrical barrels);

The metal tank is more rigid. In addition, it is easier to fix it from floating up. But the main disadvantage of iron barrels is their poor ability to resist corrosion.

A septic tank made of concrete rings requires the use of special equipment in the construction of sewer wells. It is difficult to ensure the proper degree of tightness for a tire cleaning station if there is no experience with similar materials.

The use of plastic barrels in a septic tank allows you to do without lifting equipment and without welding

A homemade septic tank made of plastic barrels has more advantages:

• light weight, which facilitates transportation, installation in the pit and assembly;
• corrosion resistance. This moment is important not only in terms of reducing the hassle associated with replacing tanks, but also as an additional guarantee of cleanliness on the site;
• the optimal way of construction, because installation of the system does not require electric welding;
• tightness of tanks, due to which there is no need to carry out work on waterproofing the sewer facility;
• manufacturability of the source material. Polymer containers are much easier to process with a cutting tool.

If necessary, slight cutting flaws can be easily corrected using cold welding tools.

Plastic barrels are the easiest to work, technological source material for the construction of a homemade septic tank

Basic accommodation requirements

In the event that you have to obtain permission to install a septic tank in the regulatory authorities (SES, etc.), then carefully study SNiP No. 2.04.03-85. SNiP - "Building Norms and Rules" - a document similar to the standard (GOST), and it is this one that establishes the basic rules for the construction of external sewage networks and treatment facilities.

Sanitary requirements are regulated by SanPiN - Sanitary Rules and Norms.

In any case, adhere to the following requirements for distances from the septic tank to the following objects:

• the foundation of the house is 4-5 meters;
• well, well - 30-50 m;
• lake, pond - 30 m;
• bushes, trees - 2-4 m;
• road - 5 m.

Before installing an autonomous septic tank or its location, it is necessary to discuss with the owners of neighboring plots. Although the standards provide for a distance from their fence to a septic tank of 2 m, the owners of a nearby estate may not be satisfied with the proximity of the sewer structure.

When deepening the bottom of the structure below 5 m, it will be necessary to obtain building permits from the local administration.

The greater the volume of wastewater processed in the septic tank, the farther it must be removed from the foundation

But even if permission is not required, consider the features of the site. It is pointless to arrange sewerage with systems of soil post-treatment in clay soils that do not have the necessary filtration properties.

The lack of ability to pass water will be “telled” by the stagnation of flood waters during the melting of snow and during periods of heavy rainfall. This means that clayey soils predominate in the section, which do not allow water to pass through and into itself.

On clay soils, sandy loams, clays, loams, storage tanks are installed. Make them, plastic containers or a group of barrels. Accumulators only accumulate waste masses for pumping out by vacuum trucks, and do not process them.

A similar decision should be made if the groundwater level is close to the surface. Soils saturated with water will also prevent the disposal of the purified and clarified liquid component of wastewater.

If the section of the site is composed of clay soils that are unable to absorb purified water, the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bconstructing a septic tank will have to be abandoned

Instead of a storage tank, a biological treatment station can be installed. It purifies effluents by 98%, which allows them to be dumped onto the terrain.

Features and design standards

Having solid experience in the construction of such systems, all the required calculations can be made "by eye". But drawing up a detailed plan and developing a project, even in the form of a sketch, can be of great benefit.

Firstly, having determined the installation locations of the cameras and laying the highway, you will accurately calculate how much and what materials you need to purchase. If time endures, then before you start work, part of the necessary, it is quite possible, can be obtained for free.

And legally - people, as a rule, easily part with things that they consider trash. It has been proven more than once in practice that even a car can be assembled by spending money comparable to the price of, say, a new bicycle.

Secondly, the careful execution of the sketch contributes to the adoption of new decisions, as well as discipline. In addition, a well-drawn to scale drawing can reveal flaws in the original design and save you from unnecessary expense. It may well turn out that the scheme can be simplified by discarding the excess.

As you plan, keep the following in mind:

• even if you do not need official permission to install a septic tank, try not to disturb the ecology of the site;
• the sections of the septic tank should be located so that there is at least 5 m between them and the foundation - a distance that excludes soil erosion in case of emergency flooding of the septic tank and the occurrence of leaks;
• the route of sewer pipes must be designed so that it is, if possible, without turns that contribute to clogging of the pipeline;
• the external line of an autonomous sewer must be provided with a manhole for inspection and cleaning.
• for every 25 m of the sewer line, an additional manhole should be built.

If the site is not happy with the dimensions, and the choice of location is a decided matter, then, if necessary, strengthen the walls of the pit.

To the level of seasonal freezing of soils, the septic tank and the sewer pipeline must be insulated so that ice plugs do not form in it

If it is planned to erect buildings in the future, the operation of which will require the use of water (a bathhouse, a sink, some kind of handicraft), provide for places for “tie-in” of water effluents from them into the treatment system. Moreover, the discharge of water from the bath can be taken immediately to the last chamber of the septic tank, since there will be no large particles of dirt in the waste water.

If you do not intend to use the services of a vacuum truck, do not make the first chamber too voluminous - so that it can be easily cleaned manually. In addition, consider either easy dismantling of the chamber or access to its contents for quick cleaning.

For maintenance, control of work and periodic extraction of sludge, the septic tank must be equipped with a hatch. It must rise above ground level by at least 18 cm.

If, in accordance with the clay type of soil on the site, only the installation of a storage tank is possible, then the design should be carried out taking into account the provision of unhindered passage of sewage equipment.

Preparation of building materials for work

The main materials necessary for making a septic tank from barrels with your own hands include:

• pipes for the highway with a diameter of 110 mm;
• fittings, angles, etc., in the quantity corresponding to your project.
• the barrels themselves, designed for septic tank chambers. Select their sizes with the calculation of the approximate water consumption in the house, based on direct observations.

It is advisable to use barrels with sufficiently thick walls so that the joints of the pipes with them are as rigid as possible - otherwise the seam may lose its tightness from mechanical stress.

To connect polymer parts, it is more convenient to use adhesives that must be compatible with the materials of barrels and pipes.

Work out in advance the issue related to the freezing of cameras at low temperatures. You can use the old village way - put wooden sticks in containers.

At the very least, the ice that expands when it freezes will squeeze the tree, which has “taken” part of the impact. Plastic bottles filled with sand will also help.

But in any case, the thermal insulation of the barrels will not be superfluous - take care of purchasing available materials in the required quantity.

Supporting materials will also be required. You need to buy a sealant to seal the seams. For this purpose, do not use silicone, it will not last long, and it will not be possible to cover it with any protective layer - no coating will hold on silicone.

The best option would be to use a car body sealant - it has good adhesion (sticking ability), mechanical strength, and it can be coated on top with paint, mastic, etc. Polyurethane sealant has the best characteristics, but it is quite expensive;

It is necessary to purchase cement, sand, rebar - for pouring bases for barrels. Sand should not be subject to any special requirements in terms of quality. Let it be with pebbles, it's not scary, the main thing is that it does not include lumps of loam and organic pollution.

As reinforcement, any steel bars are suitable. There is no need to cook a reinforcing mesh - it is enough to fasten the bars with wire.

If during the development of the pit, soil with biological inclusions, lenses and layers of clayey soil was extracted, then quarry or river sand will be required to fill the pit with an installed septic tank

It will require crushed stone, gravel, granulated slag or similar materials to backfill the bottom of the pit (pit) before pouring cement;

The plastic barrel is lightweight, and therefore, when the container is not filled, it can be “pushed” to the surface by groundwater. To avoid this, prepare metal hooks, threaded studs - something for which you can “anchor” the barrel.

It is appropriate to use commercially available threaded studs - it is convenient to make hooks from them, on the straight ends of which you can fix iron plates with two nuts that need to be “drowned” in cement.

Construction of a pit with a concrete slab

How you decide to make the main pit - manually or with the help of an excavator - decide for yourself. Calculate its area so that after installing the barrel in place it is convenient to ram the earth, which is filled into the gap between it and the wall of the pit. It is also possible to provide for the thermal insulation of the container - slag, foam, - in general, with what will be more accessible.

Before pouring a concrete slab at the bottom of the excavation, it is necessary to check whether its depth is sufficient. To do this, you can install one of the barrels in the pit and see if there is enough depth for a concrete base. If everything is in order, you can start filling the bottom of the pit with cement. It is not necessary at the same time to make formwork, but it is advisable to fill it with sand and tamp the bottom before that.

If there is any doubt about the strength of the walls of the pit, then they must be strengthened with a board before pouring. Then it is enough to fill the bottom with a thin layer of liquid cement. After it dries, you can lay the reinforcement and fill it “cleanly” - with the alignment of the horizon. Do not forget about the embedded parts for anchoring barrels!

Mix cement with sand - 3 parts of sand to 1 part of cement. It is very convenient to use an electric concrete mixer, but acquiring one just for this job (unless there are plans to build something else) does not seem appropriate. It is enough to choose a suitable trough, convenient for working with a shovel.

Mix sand with cement first without water - on the contrary, avoiding its premature ingress, and then gradually adding liquid, bring the solution to the desired consistency. To prepare small portions of cement, you can also work on a sheet of iron or plywood - if there is no trough. Before directly filling the foundation, moisten the compacting backfill with water.

In order to anchor a light plastic septic tank, metal brackets must be laid in a poured concrete slab

To level the fill, use a tool similar to a flat mop. While pressing the sole to the surface, level the solution with light translational movements. So, by the way, you will achieve a better filling of the future site with a solution.

To prevent the grout from cracking as it dries, especially in hot weather, cover the grouted area with a thick cloth after the cement has set and pour water over it. For this purpose, a tarpaulin or similar synthetic fabric is better suited - it is important not to wet the surface of the site, but to slow down the evaporation process.

Proceed with the installation of pipes when the barrels are installed, but not completely fixed. Only when the entire structure is assembled can its elements be fixed. It is advisable to fill the barrels with water - for stability.

All these points are important to take into account due to the fact that the final stage of the assembly will be the processing of the joints of pipes and barrels with sealant - while it dries, it is necessary to ensure the immobility of the structure.

Before applying the sealant, treat the places of its contact with plastic with coarse sandpaper (No. 80-100) - for better adhesion and durability of the seam. By the way, triangular scarves for rigidity can also be installed on the same sealant, 3-4 pieces per joint, between the barrel wall and the pipe. While the sealant is drying, wrap the scarves with wire, masking tape, etc. - so that they do not "slide".

A schematic diagram of preparing a pit and anchoring a factory-made septic tank can be used in a do-it-yourself sewer facility (+)

After testing the system for water permeability, proceed to the final backfilling of trenches and pits. Compact the soil gradually, filling the ground in layers. You can throw stones, bricks, etc. into the gap for rigidity.

In those places where it is possible that equipment will run into the filled pipes and pits, before filling the surface layer of soil, make a protective flooring at least from boards.

Assembly and connection of the structure

So, all materials are ready. The next step is to cut holes in the barrels for pipes. There is no point in describing this procedure. The only thing that can be advised - do not immediately make holes in size - let the pipes be inserted with effort, cut off the excess if necessary.

Next, you should take care of fixing the pipes in advance, otherwise, when backfilling and tamping trenches and pits, the integrity of the seams can be violated. Pipes can be fixed using all the means at hand - wire, cutting boards, bricks, - whatever you like.

Before digging trenches and pits, it would be useful to assemble the entire structure, without fixing the details, to place everything on the ground. Pipes can simply be placed on the ground next to the barrels. This will help to more accurately make markings on the ground. Having marked the contours of the highway and pits with stakes and twine, you can start digging.

Visual step by step guide

The process of building a septic tank with overflow from used barrels will present a visual step-by-step instruction:

Image gallery

Before the construction of a home-made septic tank, a pit is being developed, the dimensions of which will ensure convenience in the performance of work

In the lids of both barrels, planned for the installation of a septic tank with an absorbing well, we cut a hole for the flange of the sewer pipe

We apply flanges to the holes cut in the barrels. Refine cuts if necessary.

We are still finalizing the barrel intended for the device of the absorbing well - in its upper part we cut out two holes for the introduction of drainage pipes

In the upper barrel, which will be used as a receiving chamber, we cut out only one hole. It should be directly opposite the one cut into the lid.

We install the first barrel on the compacted and leveled bottom of the pit. We connect the flange to the hole cut in the cover

To install a second barrel in front of the already installed first swarm, a recess

We fill the recess with gravel, which will perform the function of ground purification of the clarified water that has come out of the septic tank

Step 1: Development of a pit for the installation of barrels

Step 2: Making Holes in the Barrels

Step 3: Fitting the Flange to the Drum Holes

Step 4: Cutting Holes in the Bottom Barrel

Step 5: Side hole in the top barrel

Step 6: Installing the receiving chamber in the pit

Step 7: Designing a recess for the second barrel

Which you will use only in the summer, it makes no sense to make or buy an expensive autonomous septic tank. You can use the material, which ultimately will not pull large financial costs. So, you can make a septic tank from plastic barrels with your own hands. But it is important to understand that such a design can only be used with small volumes of wastewater.

If a family of three lives in the country house and only in the summer, it will be enough to install 2 or 3 barrels. The volume of one barrel can be 250 liters. Barrels are mounted one after another with overflow. As a result, a bundle is formed in one line. The overflow is mounted at a slight angle. The difference between them must be at least 100 mm. As for the installation depth of the barrels, each subsequent one is buried 150 mm deeper than the previous one.

Tool and material

To make a homemade septic tank from plastic barrels, you will need to prepare the following building material and tools:

• Electric jigsaw.
• Rake.
• Shovel.
• Building level.
• Water tape.
• Epoxy two-component sealant.
• Glue for PVC pipes.
• Flanges.
• Couplings.
• Perforated pipe (for arranging drainage).
• Elbows and tees.
• Sewer pipes Ø 110 mm.
• 2-3 plastic barrels, 250 l.
• Geotextile fabric.
• Sand.
• Crushed stone, fractions 1.8-3.5 cm.

It is necessary to start creating a septic tank with the preparation of plastic barrels. So, in a barrel with a jigsaw, cut holes for overflow, according to the diameter of the pipe. At the same time, you retreat 200 mm from the top of the container. On the other side of the barrel, drill a second hole, only 300 mm lower from the top of the container. Between the two holes you get a difference of 100 mm. To organize ventilation, a pipe is equipped in the first barrel. So that from time to time it was possible to clean the septic tank from solid particles of sewage, the lid must open. As for the second barrel, which will serve as a sump, make two holes at the bottom. In relation to each other, they should be at 45 °. This is necessary to connect the drainage pipe leading to the filtration field.

Each connection of the pipe to the barrel must be treated with epoxy sealant. This will prevent leakage of effluents into the ground.

The connection of all these barrels can be made on the surface, so you just have to immerse a homemade septic tank into the pit.

As for digging a pit, this is one of the most labor-intensive processes. Barrels should be installed with ease, so make the pit 250 mm wider. You will then fill the resulting gap between the barrel and the pit with a cement-sand mixture, which will prevent the destruction or damage of the walls during the movement of the soil.

If there is a risk of the barrel floating out under the influence of groundwater, then the bottom will need to be equipped with a concrete screed. It is also necessary to install embedded metal parts with hinges that will hold the homemade septic tank in place.

Installation of barrels and production of a filtration field

At the next stage, the septic tank is installed in the pit. Gently lower the entire structure from the barrels to the bottom and fasten it with straps to the concreted hinges. If it is impossible to lower the entire structure, then after installing the barrels, all pipe joints are connected and sealed. After that, fill the resulting space between the barrel and the pit with a sand-cement mixture.

As the mixture of sand and cement is backfilled and compacted, fill the barrel with water. This will reduce the risk of deformation.

Now it's time to make the filter fields. At a depth of 700 mm, near the buried septic tank, dig a trench. Insert perforated pipes into it. Pre-cover the walls and bottom of the trench with a geotextile sheet. The laid pipes from below and from above are covered with crushed stone, 100 mm thick. When joining geotextiles, make a small overlap of up to 200 mm. This is especially important when laying the canvas on top of the rubble. When the "pie" of perforated pipe, crushed stone and geotextile is ready, the remaining trench space is covered with earth. At the end, the field with filtration channels is decorated and sown with lawn grass.

Advantages and disadvantages

The technology of using plastic barrels has its pros and cons. For objectivity, when choosing a material for a septic tank, they should be mentioned.

• Ease of installation and transportation.
• Light weight.
• It is very easy to make overflow holes.
• There is no risk of soil contamination.
• The whole structure is waterproof.
• Resistance to corrosion under the influence of aggressive substances and water.

Disadvantages of plastic barrels:

• Arrangement of reliable fastening of barrels to the bottom of the pit is required.
• There is a risk of barrels floating to the outside if installed incorrectly.
• In the cold season, the plastic material of the tank can be compressed.

As you can see, everyone can make a septic tank out of plastic barrels. Once again, it is worth recalling that such a septic tank is relevant only for seasonal use. For permanent residence, a more reliable design will be required. We will be interested in your experience in making a septic tank from plastic barrels with your own hands. Leave comments and feedback at the end of this article. And if you have any questions or certain ambiguities, ask them to our expert.

Video

From the provided video material, you can see the principle of creating a septic tank from plastic barrels using the example of Eurocubes:

Owners of private households, in an effort to save money, install an economy version of sewage tanks - a septic tank from barrels, designed to create home comfort in a country dwelling. Local sewerage, with an autonomous cleaning system, allows you to launch a convenient infrastructure in settlements where there are no centralized systems. In suburban areas in summer cottages, it makes no sense to install expensive septic tank options, because suburban summer cottages come to life only in the summer.

Manufacturers offer a wide range of cleaning systems, however, many prefer to design and manufacture a home-made septic tank in the country, the price of which will be minimal. Such an independent cleaning system with a septic tank as the main working element is easily built from improvised waste materials.

Let's analyze how to make a septic tank from barrels with your own hands, if the purchase of a finished structure is postponed. The article describes the technological nuances of manufacturing and installing home-made containers, provides step-by-step instructions with photo illustrations. The video will help you better understand the process.

In the absence of a centralized water supply and sewerage network near the site, it becomes necessary to build an autonomous system. A do-it-yourself septic tank made from barrels disposes of wastewater in accordance with hygiene standards.

The design is calculated on a certain amount of sewage, taking into account the people living in the house. Mounting a homemade device is recommended for the following reasons:

1. Cost reduction.
2. Self-purchase of components + use of existing materials.
3. Use of available tools.
4. The equipment is installed according to a modular scheme, that is, the possibility of understaffing is calculated in advance - connecting additional drain pipes to reserved entry points.

Only a person who has built a drain system on his own understands the weaknesses of the structure and knows its maximum capabilities. By calculating the approximate norms of family water consumption, the frequency of residence and, having studied the characteristics of the land, you can avoid unnecessary financial costs, physical losses, and prevent "emergencies" caused by low capacity.

On a note! The principle of operation of a cesspool from barrels is the construction of multi-level sedimentation tanks, as a result of which overflow, waste settles and the separation of wastewater into water and sludge is ensured.

After the process is completed, about 65% of the water is discharged into the ground, and the sludge accumulates at the bottom until it is pumped out of the treatment plant.

What are the pros and cons of plastic and metal barrels

The basis for the construction of an autonomous sewer system is a barrel tank. For arrangement, two types are used - metal or plastic. Since it is not so easy to make a septic tank from barrels with your own hands, the choice of packaging is up to the owner. Metal containers usually have a capacity of 200 liters. Plastic - available in large sizes. For reasons of economy, it is better to install the existing tanks. But when you plan to buy a container, you should explore different options.

Plastic variant

Pros of using:

• Little weight;
• Ease of installation;
• Ease of making holes;
• Full waterproof;
• Corrosion resistance.

Cons of products:

• The light weight of the product requires stable attachment to the foundation in order to avoid “floating” when flooded from excessive rainfall;
• The elasticity of the material leads to the compression of containers by soils.

Iron variant

Advantages of iron barrels for the construction of a cesspool:

• High rigidity and strength of products;
• Sufficient water resistance;
• Structural stability.

Disadvantages:

• Susceptibility to corrosion, which requires the application of a waterproofing coating;
• The labor-intensive process of making holes, using power tools.

The main disadvantage of a sump from barrels is the small volume of chambers. This is the reason for the frequent pumping of sediment.

Please note! If the volume of the chambers corresponds to 200 / 250 l drums, the effluent discharge must be regulated.

How does a homemade sewer sump work

All drains enter the sewer lines, and from there into the reservoir, the so-called pit. In this barrel, wastewater is "filtered", most of the pollutants settle. Through the connecting pipe, wastewater from the first tank enters the second tank. The process of filling the sections takes place in a strictly regulated manner, which is achieved by placing containers with a ladder at different levels.

The outlet and inlet are positioned so that water enters the next tank before its level rises to the inlet pipe. Gradually, the heaviest particles of dirt fall to the bottom, while small and light ones continue to move along the structure. In order for the waste stream to move freely along the sewer lines, a home-made septic tank from barrels is made with a slope.

In addition to mechanical cleaning, colonies of microorganisms are also involved in the process, which form in containers after 2-5 weeks and process organic pollution.

After processing in the second chamber, wastewater is sent to a storage or drainage system. In the first case, the accumulated water is drained after a while. If a drainage well is used, the liquid is discharged into the ground. In the sump, discharges are cleaned by 65-80%. If a higher level of purification is needed, a third barrel is used. The more compartments are discharged, the higher the degree of purification becomes. For a suburban area, a double level is sufficient.

Methane generated during wastewater treatment is removed by ventilation. It is placed vertically at the exit of the sewer from the house or near the last section of autonomous equipment. To get rid of unpleasant odors, a siphon is installed, it is possible in the form of a “knee”.

How to choose a place to install a septic tank

If you decide to install a septic tank from barrels in the country with your own hands, choose the right place. The structure must be removed from:

• Wells, wells and other sources at 30-50 m;
• The foundation of buildings - 5-10 m;
• Green spaces: shrubs / trees - 3-5 m;
• Underground pipelines - 10-15 m;
• Basement and garden beds - 10-20 m.

Wastewater enters the system in small portions, because the owners of suburban real estate do not visit the dacha every weekend. It is always necessary to adhere to building and sanitary restrictions. Any sanitary norm has its own reasons, its violation will lead to problems with health and the law.

Important! Strictly observe the distance between the source of drinking water and the septic tank. This will avoid contamination, reduce the likelihood of water contamination and the spread of infections.

When equipping a homemade septic tank from plastic barrels, do not place the object near the foundation, the treated drains will begin to destroy its foundation. When choosing a location, the following factors are taken into account:

1. The composition and properties of the soil - sandy soil easily passes water, clay, loamy and other dense soils are unsuitable for absorbing large amounts of moisture, so they build storage tanks or expand the drainage system with the addition of a large amount of sand and gravel.
2. The relief of the site - the house should be placed above the sump, and not vice versa, because the process occurs by gravity and the slope in the opposite direction will not allow wastewater to move in the right direction.
3. Groundwater Depth – Closely lying groundwater may be polluted by runoff or the ground near the tanks will become waterlogged due to excess moisture. In this case, the concreting of the drain pit is carried out.
4. Climatic conditions - it is necessary to ensure that the chambers do not freeze at low temperature indicators. If the pipe is installed above the freezing level, it is insulated with waterproof insulation.
5. Free access for sewers - you need to create access roads for the car to extract sewage.

What are the design features

The more sections the waste mass overcomes, the cleaner it becomes at the final stage. The most common model is a three-section, designed to filter viscous dark brown drains.

At the final stage, a hole is made in the last barrel leading to the filtration field. This post-treatment drainage mechanism consists of perforated pipes located underground. The pipeline is placed in trenches, where geotextile is preliminarily laid, sand / gravel is backfilled from above.

Note! Such a complex structure is recommended to be installed to clean the dirtiest sewage.

To clean the light sewage of a bath or kitchen, one / two compartments are enough. The simplest two-chamber system consists of tanks and an outer plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm. If the diameter is smaller, the structure will not be able to handle more drains. Iron barrels are installed if groundwater is below 8 meters; if the level is slightly higher - there are no better plastic containers.

The slope of the sewer line is 0.03. The vertical value is 3 cm per meter. Post-treatment of light effluents is carried out in an absorption well located in a second tank filled with gravel / sand.

What materials and tools are needed

After preliminary calculations of the chamber septic tank: volume, sewerage range, hydrogeological status of the soil, freezing depth, size and required slope - you can begin to build a septic tank from plastic barrels with your own hands.

For work you will need:

1. Two or three barrels made of polymer material with a volume of 200 / 400l.
2. Corrugated plastic + sewer pipes for installation. The length is determined by the distance from the house to the containers with sewage + a margin of several meters.
3. Ventilation pipes with a neck diameter of 110 mm. The length of the pipe is not more than 1.5 m.
4. Corners and tees.
5. Couplings, flanges.
6. Cement.
7. Small crushed stone with 49 mm granular elements.
8. Adhesive for joining PVC components.
9. Epoxy sealant.
10. Rubber seal to seal the pipe inlet.
11. Sand.
12. Sewer covers.

If there is a possibility of waterlogging, concreting of the lower layer of the pit will be required. For this you need:

• Concrete mixer;
• Electric mixer;
• mixing tank;
• Adapter fitting and steel cables for fastening barrels at the bottom.

If the soil is soft, reinforcing the walls of the pit with a wooden or steel mesh is simply essential. Mineral wool for pipelines, foam or polystyrene are needed to build an insulating layer for sewer equipment.

What is the sequence of work

To properly make a septic tank from a barrel, you need to remove sewer pipes from the house before starting excavation work. From the point of withdrawal, start digging a trench forward to the sewage sump. The sewerage device depends on the following procedure:

Important! After installation, fill the barrels with water 20-30 cm below the neck. This will help protect the septic structure from deformation under ground pressure.

After testing for water permeability, proceed to the final backfill. We lay down gradually layer by layer. Rocks, bricks, and other debris can be thrown into the slots to create a rigid structure.

The upper part is insulated and optionally covered with foam. Only sewer tank covers and ventilation ducts should remain above ground.

The general principle of organizing individual sewage

When the septic tank is ready for operation, general rules for its use are established for each family member. Small volumes of tanks require more attention to the number of liters used. It takes three days for partial filtration of water to occur. Therefore, make sure that the containers are not overfilled within 72 hours.

Do not dispose of bad or non-degradable items in the sink. Only organic is suitable for this method of getting rid of sewage. If you plan to clean the chambers yourself, then the silt from the barrels should be placed in a fertilizer pit and mixed with weeds and soil. After a couple of years, they will turn into an excellent fertilizer.

Do not put off the problem of waste disposal until tomorrow, start planning the model today. Since making a septic tank from barrels with your own hands is the best solution that allows you to create an autonomous sewage system in the country with a minimum investment.

At the initial stage of construction, one cannot do without the construction of a septic tank for wastewater. This is a rather expensive part of the work, but there is an opportunity to reduce its cost. If a small building is being erected, for example, a summer house or an outdoor shower, then a septic tank can be made from a plastic barrel. But before installation, you need to understand this issue in more detail.

Advantages

For capital structures, it is mandatory to install a wastewater collection and treatment system, which can be purchased ready-made. But in terms of costs, the design will be expensive, and the installation itself is quite complicated. You can’t do without such a complex installation, because water is constantly consumed in a residential building, and a simple drainage system will not work.

But if it is necessary to provide a septic tank for a country house, which is used only in the warm season, or for a temporary structure, then it is recommended to install a septic tank from barrels. Such a system contains a small amount of water, but this is quite enough for a small amount of water.

Barrels for a septic tank can be used both new and used.

Such a structure can be made not only from plastic barrels, but also from metal ones. It is recommended to use plastic for this job, because metal is prone to corrosion.

Scheme

A septic tank is constructed from several barrels, which are interconnected into a single system. First you need to draw up a diagram with a drawing of the building and the location of the septic tank installation. The latter will be located underground a few meters from the location of the building.

Effluent passes through a drain riser, a pipe that reaches at an angle to the first barrel. In total, a minimum of 2 barrels must be used. Then, from the first barrel, the effluent flows through the overflow pipe into the second barrel.

For the competent installation of a septic tank in a private house, it is imperative to draw a diagram. This stage of work is necessary not only for permitting authorities, but also for the owner himself. The drawings will help to accurately calculate not only consumables, but also the sequence of installation.

If 3 barrels are used for a septic tank, then the general scheme looks like this:

• Drains through the inlet enter the first barrel, which is gradually filled.
• Large particles settle at the bottom of the first barrel.
• Liquid from the first barrel through the outlet enters the second barrel.
• In the second barrel, smaller particles settle at the bottom.
• Liquid from the second barrel through the outlet enters the third barrel.
• Treated drains through the bottom of the third barrel go into the ground.

When drawing up a septic tank diagram, it should be ensured that the inlet and outlet of each barrel are located at different levels: the inlet is higher and the outlet is lower. Due to this, the treated effluents will pass into the next barrel through the outlet before the liquid level reaches the inlet.

Another important detail: the system is installed under a slope. Such an installation will allow the liquid to flow freely through the pipes, and not stagnate in some area.

Three-section cleaning is provided for the building where the toilet will be installed. But if it is necessary to clean the drain that will come from the kitchen or bath, then a 2-section cleaning is enough.

Preparatory work

The installation of a septic tank consists of carrying out calculations. For this, the required number of pipes is determined for laying them to the system. Then you should prepare the site where the system will be located. It is cleared of debris, vegetation and other objects.

The location of the septic tank from a residential building must be at least 5 m. It is allowed to adhere to a distance of 2 m if the sewer system is installed for non-residential premises.

It is necessary to provide a large distance from the septic tank to the river or lake. Effluent must not enter aquifers. Therefore, it is recommended to maintain a distance of at least 10 m to the river, and at least 30 m to the lake. If trees grow in the summer cottage, then they need to maintain a distance of at least 2 m, and to the roadway - 5 m.

You should also prepare everything you need for work. For a country house, a septic tank of 3 barrels of 250 liters is suitable.

Necessary materials and tools

For the arrangement of a septic tank, materials will be required:

• Barrels.
• Sewer pipes.
• Couplings. Flanges.
• Rubble.
• Sand.
• Geotextile.
• Wooden pegs.
• Sealant.

As for the choice of barrels, it has already been said that the best option is 3 barrels of 250 liters each. If necessary, the volume of barrels can be increased. The length of the sewer pipes depends on the distance at which the septic tank will be located from the house. The pipe diameter must be at least 110 mm.

If the barrels are installed above the freezing of the soil, then any insulation will be required: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded clay.

For installation, it is necessary to prepare a rake, a shovel, a building level and a jigsaw.

The rake is used for clearing and leveling the area. The shovel is used to dig the trench, and the building level will be used to set the system at an angle. A jigsaw is used to cut holes in barrels.

Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels. Step-by-step instruction

After preparing everything you need, you can begin the installation. This process is carried out in stages:

• Digging a trench.
• Bottom cushioning.
• Geotextile laying.
• Gravel backfill.
• Installation of barrels.
• Pipe installation.
• System check.
• Trench backfill.

Front trench digging measurements must be taken carefully. To simplify your work, you can lay out all the details on the ground: pipes, barrels. Then mark the contours of the system and start digging holes. To facilitate the work, you can use the services of an excavator, due to which the pit will turn out to be the right size.

Then a layer of sand should be poured to the bottom of the trench, which will serve as shock-absorbing cushion. The places where the first 2 barrels (filter) will be located should be concreted. Place for the 3rd (last) barrel covered with geotextiles and covered with rubble.

Mounting

Before as install barrels into the pit, it is desirable to pre-connect them with pipes. After all, doing such work in a pit will be very inconvenient. Holes for pipes are cut in the upper side parts of the barrels.

Don't make a big hole. The pipe must be butt-fitted, otherwise leaks will occur.

The joints must be treated with sealant. For these purposes, it is best to use a car. In the first two barrels, effluent will be filtered, so they are installed with the bottom. In the first barrel, solid wastes fall to the bottom, and in the second, smaller particles settle at the bottom. Already 65% ​​purified wastewater enters the third barrel, and this liquid goes into the ground. That is why the bottom should be cut off in the last barrel.

It is necessary to connect the barrels to each other with pipes through which the liquid will flow from one compartment to another. When such a design is ready, it should be installed in the prepared pit. At the bottom of the third barrel, it is necessary to pour a layer of rubble to a third of its volume. Then a sewer pipe is connected to the first barrel, which departs from the house. In order to lead the pipe at an angle, it is recommended to use wooden pegs, which are mounted at different levels. Using the building level, which is applied to the top of the pegs, the required angle is set. Then a layer of sand is poured, and a layer of gravel on top so that it does not cover the tops of the wooden marks.

Ventilation and insulation

Ventilation of the installed septic tank should be provided. To do this, a pipe with a protective visor at the top is brought out to protect against precipitation.

If the barrels are installed above the freezing point of the soil, then they should be insulated. When all the parts are connected and the joints are treated with sealant, a system check is performed. To do this, water is supplied to the first container, and then possible leaks are checked. If they are absent, then you can backfill the septic tank.

To connect pipes with flanges and fittings, you can use a special adhesive that is compatible with the pipe material. This will ensure a tight connection.

The pit is completely filled with gravel. Then a layer of geotextile is laid on top of the barrels, and after that, soil is backfilled. It is necessary to ensure that the lids of the barrels are not filled up, otherwise it will be difficult to reach them in the future during maintenance.

When building a septic tank, professionals are advised to take into account several points:

• On soils that are not able to absorb water (clay, loam, sandy loam), as well as on soils where the groundwater level is close to the surface, a septic tank cannot be installed. In this case, a storage installation is suitable, which does not clean, but collects drains. Therefore, you will have to regularly use the services of vacuum trucks for pumping.
• A septic tank should be installed at a normalized distance from the house, garden, road and river.
• To prevent the barrels from freezing, you can immerse several plastic bottles half-filled with sand into the barrels. Due to this, icing of the walls can be prevented.

The simplest scheme for installing a septic tank from a barrel is presented in this video

Building a septic tank with your own hands from plastic barrels will provide a good level of comfort for a country house. This method is to quickly install a wastewater system at minimal cost.