Why hydrangea does not bloom - the solution to the problem! Why the hydrangea does not bloom in the garden, but gives only foliage.

Hydrangea is one of the most beautiful garden plants, the flowers of which can be of many shades. There are different varieties of hydrangeas, but they all have rather large inflorescences, consisting of many small fruit-bearing and several large sterile flowers. Hydrangea begins to bloom at the age of five, but sometimes an adult plant does not bloom. There may be several reasons why the hydrangea does not bloom in the garden.

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Reasons for the absence of flowers

The main thing when buying a hydrangea is to choose the right variety that can take root in the climate of the region and survive the winter cold. If the variety is chosen correctly, the lack of flowers can be caused by one of the following factors:

• Unsuitable climate - hydrangea is quite a heat-loving plant, transplanting into new conditions can be stressful. In an unfamiliar climate, generative buds will not develop. Before buying a flower, you need to find out in what conditions it grew.
• Insufficiency of the root system: in young hydrangeas, the roots are quite fragile and weak; after transplantation, such plants may not bloom for two to five years.
• Young plants do not give flowers; for flowering, the age of hydrangeas should begin at 5 years.
• Incorrect pruning - with an annual incorrect pruning, there will be no flowers, or there will be very few of them.
• Cold - for the winter, the plant must be covered, acting carefully and carefully. If it is not enough to cover the hydrangea, the shoots will freeze; if it is done too tightly, there is a risk of damaging the branches.
• Inappropriate feeding - may be one of the reasons why the flowers do not bloom.
• Poor soil - the plant is quite demanding on the quality of fertilizers and the soil on which it grows.
• Artificial stimulation of flowering - if a flower was drip-fed with fertilizer before selling to simulate a lush flowering appearance, next year there may not be flowers at all. In order for the bush to start producing flowers, it needs proper care.

How to help the plant bloom?

Before buying, you need to ask the seller under what conditions the hydrangea was grown - in a greenhouse or in the open field. The greenhouse flower will need long time for acclimatization, so you should not wait for flowers right away.

In order to speed up the process of getting used to the new soil of the flower, when transplanting, it is recommended to leave a coma of the soil in which the hydrangea originally grew on the roots.

In the first two months, fertilizers are applied on average once every two weeks. It is better to choose a top dressing specialized for hydrangeas, but fertilizer for azaleas and heather is suitable. A plant that was watered drip with the addition of fertilizers will not be able to feed on its own in the open field - such a flower is weaned from an excess of complementary foods gradually, over a year or two.

Landing Rules

Need to plant hydrangea in early spring, after the snow has melted, but before the buds appear on the garden trees.



Holes for a bush are best done about half a meter in diameter and about the same depth. When planting, the roots are trimmed a little, in young plants this is not required.

In the center of the planting hole, it is necessary to make a small earthen mound and evenly distribute the root system along the slopes. The earth is compacted tightly, and then watered abundantly.

Soil mulching is done in the spring before flowering and in the fall, before the plant is hidden for the winter. The layer of mulched soil should be about 8 cm thick. For broad-leaved and panicled hydrangeas, it is better to choose loamy soil, with the addition of peat.



pruning

In hydrangeas, flowers are located on the shoots of last year, which is why, if pruned annually, the hydrangea does not bloom. Although the hydrangea grows quickly, inflorescences are formed only on healthy and strong shoots. In the spring, you can prune dried and frozen branches, but you can not do this in early spring.



The best time for hygienic pruning is mid-April and early May.

You need to remove only dried and non-viable shoots. You can also thin out the shrub by removing weakened zero shoots. When pruning more than two or three mature buds from one branch, there may not be flowering.

Before the onset of cold weather, it is better to cut off all the inflorescences, but all viable buds must be left.



Proper bait

You can not overfeed hydrangea flowers with nitrogen fertilizers, otherwise it will freeze in winter and die. For hydrangeas, fertilizers must be applied in the following sequence:

• In early spring - nitrogenous fertilizers, for more lush flowering;
• In summer - potash, so that the plant does not dry out and retains flowers and shoots;
• In autumn - phosphates, to develop frost resistance and successful wintering.

Young hydrangeas may also need aluminum salts. Well suited for hydrangeas are ammonium sulfate, fertilizers with super-phosphate, as well as specially designed fertilizers with all the trace elements necessary for a flower.



Shelter from the cold

Starting from the end of September, you will need to wrap the hydrangea with a film for greenhouses or lutrasil in two layers.

You can hide the plant for the winter, starting from mid-October. Before covering the plant, you need to cut off all the inflorescences, while leaving the kidneys. Plants under five years old are immediately covered with earth or peat, but old thick bushes can be broken in this way.

In order for the hydrangea not to suffer, it is necessary to build a litter of stones, branches, leaves and coniferous branches, and carefully lay the plant on it so that the stem and shoots do not suffer, fix it with ropes, and make an earth mound on top. In the spring, it is necessary to remove the mound, but until the end of May, in case of night frosts, it is necessary to cover the hydrangea with lutrasil or film. This is especially important for young plants - this will help maintain more shoots and viable buds.



Watering Requirements

Hydrangeas are moisture-loving, but different varieties have different lighting requirements: some species need to be planted in shaded places, while others, on the contrary, in the sun. One of the most capricious species are broad-leaved varieties - they require a lot of moisture, and grow mainly in places with good lighting. It is necessary to maintain a balance between lighting and plant moisture.



For irrigation, water with a slightly acidic environment is needed, tap water is not suitable, as it will shift the balance to the alkaline side, which will harm the plants. You can water with rainwater, or defend tap water for several days. If watering is needed urgently, you can boil the required amount of liquid in an open container - this will help evaporate impurities harmful to plants and eliminate excess water hardness.

To preserve the acidity of the soil, you can add a small amount of citric acid, kefir or a weak acetic solution to the liquid during irrigation.

In the hot season, you need to water the plant quite often and plentifully, about 20 liters per adult plant, but you can not create an excess of moisture - otherwise the root system will rot. AT rainy summer irrigation frequency is reduced several times.



You can judge the acidity of the soil by changing the color of hydrangeas: in acidic soil, the flowers have a bluish tint, in neutral soils, white or orange, and when the soil is leached, they become pink or lilac.

Reproduction methods

Hydrangea is best propagated by cuttings in early July and until its middle, it is best to take cuttings from young plants. You need to choose shoots without visible diseases, not withered, with large buds. You need to cut the cuttings in the morning to protect them from drying out, it is better to do this from the sides of the plant.



Tops with buds must be cut off, cut off the lower leaves and kept for several days in a solution that stimulates growth. You can make a solution yourself by adding a small amount of honey to the water.

After the formation of callus, the shoots are planted in a richly moistened mixture of sand and peat, made in the ratio of one part of sand to two parts of peat. It is advisable to water the cuttings daily, as well as spray the leaves. AT suitable conditions shoots will take root within a month.

It is impossible to propagate hydrangea seeds in open ground - it is necessary to grow a plant in a pot for the first two years, and then transplant it into garden soil with all precautions. Experienced gardeners can try to plant offspring, propagate by layering or divide the bush into several parts.

Variety selection

In order for the plant to show itself in all its glory, you need to choose a frost-resistant variety that will not die after wintering:

• One of these frost-resistant flowers is paniculate hydrangea; in the middle zone, this shrub grows up to two meters. Its inflorescences are shaped like lilac inflorescences. The variety prefers slightly acidic or clay soils.
• Hydrangea tree - a plant with a height of one and a half to two and a half meters, one of the most cold-resistant species. AT warm winter it does not need to be covered and generally requires less maintenance than other hydrangeas.
• Large-leaved hydrangea requires a lot of attention, and does not tolerate cold weather. It can bloom both on last year's shoots and on those that have grown this year.
• In addition to flowers, the oak-leaved hydrangea is distinguished by very beautiful curly leaves. It does not tolerate cold and can only grow in greenhouses or in the southern part of the country.

Before buying, you should pay attention to the presence of buds: if they are, the plant was artificially fed, and it will be more difficult to take root. If you properly care for the plant and provide it with required amount moisture and fertilizers, it will be able to please with lush inflorescences and a variety of colors.

Many beginners in the field of floriculture often make simple mistakes when growing hydrangeas. Because of this, plants can stop flowering, and put all the useful substances into the development of foliage.

Hydrangea is perennial shrub, which gives flowers of amazing beauty. But it is not always possible to see these flowers on your plant. When growing these plants, you should know why the hydrangea does not bloom, but only leaves. This will help flower growers to observe the flowering of their plants every year.

white flowers

Hydrangea has more than 80 varieties, and they can differ in a large number characteristics. The main part of the varieties are small shrubs, 1-2 meters high, and creepers can climb to a height of more than 30 meters.



Hydrangea

Flowering plants begin late spring and lasts until late autumn. The main part of the flowers is white, but the flowers of certain varieties of hydrangea can be painted in pink, red, blue and lilac colors. As a rule, the color depends on the level of soil acidity.

Reasons for not flowering

Many flower growers, having decided to grow hydrangeas in their garden plot, cannot achieve flowering. There may be several reasons, and you should know the main ones in order to avoid mistakes when growing plants.

• Incorrect pruning.
• Lack of moisture.
• Underdevelopment of the root system.
• Buying fraud.
• Wrong transfer.
• Insufficient lighting.
• Freezing of kidneys in winter.
• Wrong nutrition.
• Choosing the wrong variety.
• Diseases and pests.

Pruning bushes

Hydrangeas like others shrub plants, timely and correct pruning is necessary. It greatly affects the amount of foliage and the abundance of flowering. Incorrect pruning is often the reason why the hydrangea does not bloom, but only leaves. This phenomenon is very common in large-leaved varieties hydrangeas.



As a rule, the main part of pruning is carried out in the spring after the snow has melted. In the fall, work on cutting hydrangea bushes is rarely left, only faded parts are removed. Spring pruning is done before the formation of foliage. Pruning methods may differ for each individual type of hydrangea.

Watering

Hydrangea loves moisture. Even its name in Latin is translated as "a vessel with water." Watering for bushes should be plentiful. In summer, up to 50 ml of water is used for each bush.



Watering is done regularly. In the summer, the bushes are watered twice a week. If the weather is rainy, then watering should be reduced to once. The amount of watering should be adjusted according to the current weather.

root system

Young plants that have only recently been planted in the soil have a weak root system. They need a long time to finally strengthen and start producing flowers.

Full flowering of plants begins only at the 4th year of hydrangea growth. Therefore, you should not panic if the hydrangea does not bloom immediately after planting. With proper care, you can get stunning flowers every year.

Purchase of planting material

When buying hydrangeas, you should not contact little-known sellers of planting material. Often unscrupulous sellers can use growth and flowering enhancers. When buying, you can observe excellent flowering, and by planting such plants in your soil, flowering may stop.



The use of flowering enhancers puts a very high strain on the plants. Subsequently, such a plant will not produce flowers for a very long time. And in the worst case, you can not see the flowers at all.

Buy planting material only in conducted companies, and before buying, you should carefully study the reviews about it.

Bush transplant

Incorrect transplantation very often becomes the reason why pink hydrangea does not bloom, but only leaves. Novice flower growers can easily damage the root system, disrupting the usual metabolism of plants.



planting flowers

Also, choosing too tight or too spacious a container for growing indoor plants can slow down development and, as a result, stop flowering of hydrangeas.

The choice of a suitable soil is also very important, because a sharp change in the composition of the soil can adversely affect the general condition of the plants.

Lighting

The reason for poor flowering or its absence may be insufficient lighting. This is often observed in places where natural sunlight is not fully available.

To solve this problem, it is necessary to additional lighting by other methods or transplant plants to places where there will be plenty of sunlight.



pink flowers

Shelter for the winter

In severe frosts, flowering buds can easily freeze. Such buds will no longer be able to produce flowers, and they will only have to be cut along with damaged stems. To prevent this from happening, the plants take cover for the winter.



Shelter for the winter

• You should tie together the stems of hydrangeas and spud them with sawdust. After that, it remains only to sprinkle them with earth.
• If it is possible to cover the hydrangea with a non-woven covering material, then this opportunity should be used.
• Coniferous branches will be a good covering material. They will not only save the bushes from freezing, but also increase the acidity of the soil, which hydrangea bushes love.
• Plants can be covered even if all the leaves did not have time to fall. Neither pests nor diseases hibernate on hydrangea leaves.

top dressing



Fertilization

For the full flowering of hydrangeas, regular, but moderately dosed top dressing is needed. An excess of nitrogen fertilizers is the reason why paniculate hydrangea does not bloom, but only leaves. The flowering of the bushes stops, and the beneficial substances go to the enhanced formation of foliage.

• In the spring, at the beginning of the growth of the bushes, 25 g should be applied per square meter of soil. urea, 40 gr. superphosphate and 35 gr. sulfuric potassium.
• With the onset of the budding phase, the supply of nitrogen fertilizers is reduced. For one square meter of soil, 80 gr. superphosphate and 45 gr. sulfuric potassium.
• The use of nitrogen fertilizers is relevant after flowering. Under each bush, 15 kg of compost or rotted manure should be added.

There are special fertilizers for hydrangeas. They contain a set of minerals and trace elements necessary for the full development of plants. You can use them as the main top dressing. Please read the instructions carefully before use.

Selection of varieties

Each plant requires certain growing conditions. It is not always possible to achieve them in different regions of the country. Varieties that are initially accustomed to a lot of light and heat will feel uncomfortable in the northern regions.



Variety selection

On the other hand, a variety intended for growing in northern climates is unlikely to take root in hot, dry regions.

Choosing the right variety is one of the many basic conditions for the full growth and flowering of hydrangeas.

Diseases and pests

Diseases and pests on hydrangeas are rare, but even they suffer from similar troubles. The most common hydrangea problems are:




They do not directly damage flowers, but they can interfere with plant development by slowing the onset of flowering or stopping it altogether. Use to control diseases and pests modern facilities on a biological or chemical basis, as well as folk methods.

Knowing why the hydrangea does not bloom, but gives only foliage, you can easily eliminate all the reasons that interfere with the full development of the plant. Applying these tips in practice, you can enjoy the pleasant flowering of your pets every year.

Very often we have questions why this or that plant does not live up to our expectations, our task is to analyze this topic in as much detail as possible.

Why is the hydrangea not blooming? Do flower growers know such secrets of care?

But in fact, not so much and you need to know that this wonderful flower would decorate your yard or garden. The only question is whether you are ready to spend a little of your time and energy in order to learn these tricks or still decide to leave it to others.

first of all, you will need to decide on the variety of this wonderful flower, since a lot in the life of a plant depends on your climate. In addition, you need to remember that proper pruning contributes to the development of the flower and vice versa. And lastly, the hydrangea flower is very delicate and often gets sick, so get ready for strict adherence to a number of rules. Read on for more details on all this and more.

Why don't hydrangeas bloom?

There can be many reasons why hydrangea does not bloom. The garden beauty is capricious. To grow this magnificent flower on your site and enjoy its flowering, you need to make some efforts.

• It is necessary to study his preferences, determine the need for watering and lighting.
• In this case, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil, the place of planting and the plant variety.
• If you carefully analyze the conditions in which the hydrangea grows, you can find the reasons for its trouble and correct the mistakes made.

The main reasons for the lack of flowering and their solution

1. Bad place to plant a seedling
2. Too little or too much moisture
3. Adaptation after disembarkation
4. Incorrectly selected fertilizers
5. Kidneys frozen in winter
6. Failed shrub pruning
7. Diseases and pests
8. Wrong variety selected

Bad place to plant a seedling

Hydrangea feels uncomfortable in open places, being under the scorching rays of the sun all day. The tender leaves of many varieties in the heat sag lifelessly and burn.

In a sunny place, the plant will be saved by an underestimated landing. trunk circle the bush should be 10 cm below ground level. It must be mulched with coarse-fiber peat or sawdust to the surface of the earth. Under such conditions, the plant can develop and bloom normally.

In hot and sunny regions, it is better to grow panicle hydrangea. With regular moisture, it will withstand direct sunlight all daylight hours without compromising flowering.

In deep shade, under the crowns large trees hydrangea is unlikely to please with a lush color. The perennial does not develop well with strong shading, regardless of which variety is planted. If flowers appear, they will be sparse and underdeveloped.

All varieties of plants prefer places where the sun's rays fall only before lunch. In such conditions, hydrangea blooms especially brightly, magnificently and for a long time.

If the place for the shrub is chosen unsuccessfully and it is not possible to correct the situation, you need to transplant it. This should be done only as a last resort, since the plant does not tolerate transplantation well. The most suitable time for transplantation is autumn. At this time, the perennial is at rest.

• Having picked up a suitable site, you need to dig a hole to a depth of 50 cm. The extracted soil is mixed with 2 buckets of humus and 80 g of mineral fertilizer are added.
• Hydrangea loves acidic soil and grows quickly in it. Therefore, the soil for it must be acidified with a solution of sulfuric acid (1 tsp per 10 liters of water).
• It is necessary to replant the plant very carefully, along with a clod of earth.
• If the root system is damaged during transplantation, the plant will not bloom for a long time.

Too little or too much moisture



Moisture is the main feature of hydrangea. The shrub has the botanical name Hydrangea. Translated from Greek"hydrangea" means "vessel of water". With a lack of moisture, the plant stops flowering. Its roots must always be kept moist. Do not allow the earthen coma to dry out near the roots. If the weather is dry, the hydrangea may die without watering.

In cool weather, it is enough to water the flower once a week. On hot and dry days, watering should be done every 3 days. A young plant also needs additional moisture until it is 1 year old.

If the soil is clayey, water less often. Water will stagnate in heavy soil. With an excess of moisture, hydrangea can reduce or stop flowering. An abundance of water leads to rotting of the roots and death of the plant. Heavier than others, the accumulation of moisture near the roots of the oak-leaved hydrangea tolerates. It only needs well-drained soil. To prevent water from accumulating in clay soil, pine bark must be added to it.

• For irrigation, it is better to use rain or filtered water.
• Tap water must be defended before watering for 5 days.
• For a single watering of the bush, you need 1-1.5 buckets of water.
• To prevent moisture from spreading, it is worth making an earthen side at the base of the bush.

In the garden, among large and powerful hydrangea trees, moisture will not be enough. Tree roots will take water from the flower. Even if the roots of the trees are removed when planting a perennial, they will grow in a year.

Adaptation after disembarkation



Very often after planting a healthy flowering plant in open ground, it loses its decorative qualities and stops flowering. A sharp deterioration in the condition of the flower is due to the lack of the usual dressings.

Hydrangea sellers often abuse fertilizers and overfeed plants, achieving lush flowering and rapid growth. Getting into natural conditions, flowering bush starts to hurt.

He is not able to independently absorb the necessary substances from the soil. Such a plant may die if emergency measures are not taken.

• When transplanting hydrangeas from a container into the soil, you do not need to cut the roots and shake off the substrate.
• It will be very difficult for a weakened plant to restore the root system.
• The soil remaining in the container must be mixed with garden soil and poured into the root zone.

In the first year, you need to regularly feed hydrangeas, gradually reducing the dosage. It is important to create a plant ideal conditions in the first months after transplantation, preventing drying and stagnation of water in the root zone. When the hydrangea gets stronger, it will begin to develop and bloom.

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Incorrectly selected fertilizers.



Hydrangea does not respond well to excess fertilizer in the soil. It is especially harmful in summer and early autumn to introduce into the soil nitrogen fertilizers.

They are used to enhance the growth of green mass and do not contribute to flowering. BUT fast growth shoots in the fall leads to the fact that they do not have time to ripen for the cold and freeze.

Proper feeding of the plant is carried out several times a season.

• At the end of spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to enhance the growing season.
• In summer, fertilizing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers is used to stimulate and maintain flowering.
• In early September, potassium-phosphorus preparations are applied to strengthen the shoots and prepare for winter.
• • in early spring- from the moment the sap flow begins, for the development and growth of new strong shoots. The mixture for the first feeding can be prepared independently by mixing potassium, urea and superphosphate in equal proportions. The optimal dose of application is 60 g under one bush. You can also dilute another solution - one tablespoon of sodium sulfate and urea per bucket of water, the consumption will be 5-6 liters per plant;



• • early summer (June)- at the stage of formation of ovaries to increase the number of buds. Before flowering, experienced flower growers are advised to feed the hydrangea with a mixture of Agricola and nitrophoska, 1 tbsp each. for 10 liters of liquid. It will not be superfluous to apply green fertilizer - one bucket of diluted nettle infusion per adult bush with further watering;
  • in the middle summer season - during the period of active blooming of inflorescences for long-term flowering. In the phase of active flowering, special complex mineral fertilizers are used, but in smaller quantities and concentrations. From the end of July, nitrogen should be excluded from the composition of nutrient dressings in order to exclude unfavorable overwintering of shrubs; It is important to know: top dressing should be made every two weeks, otherwise the flowering will be frail and not abundant. along with mineral fertilizers, hydrangea responds well during this period and to adding organic matter - chicken manure or dung slurry;
• autumn (October)- to prepare the plant for wintering and laying young shoots and peduncles. At the end of flowering, it is more useful to fertilize hydrangea with humus or peat - pour substrates 10-15 cm high into the near-trunk zone of each plant. Feeding in the autumn with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers will have a beneficial effect on a plant sleeping in winter.



With the help of top dressing, you can change the color of the spherical flowers of the shrub. Blue shades will give a solution of water and alum (ammonia or potassium), and lime will increase the pink tones.

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Kidneys frozen in winter

To protect the hydrangea from severe frosts, in the fall they begin to prepare it for winter. In areas with a warm climate, it will be enough to cut off the inflorescences and wrap the bush with agrofibre, and where the temperature drops below 25 degrees in winter, it is necessary to make a more reliable shelter.

Hydrangea shelter for the winter.

Old inflorescences are cut off, the branches are bent to the ground and covered with peat, earth or sawdust. To do this, the bush is fenced with boards to make a box - branches are laid in it. In order not to bend them too much, dry grass or leaves are first placed on the ground, and branches are laid on this pillow. From above, the box is also boarded up with boards; after a heavy snowfall, it is additionally insulated with snow.

In the spring, with the onset of heat, the entire structure is removed, the plant is rejuvenated by pruning. When spring frosts, which are so frequent in Russia, the bush needs to be covered with agrofiber - if the flower buds, which have just begun to develop, freeze slightly, the plant will not bloom this year.



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Failed shrub pruning

If the buds of future flowers are removed during autumn pruning, the plant will not bloom in due time.

Pruning hydrangeas should be done only when necessary. Young plants should not be touched until they begin to bloom. The first flowers appear on the perennial in 2-3 years. Panicled hydrangeas can bloom only for 6 years.

In autumn, most varieties of hydrangeas can be left uncut. Spring pruning is best done in more late dates when frost damage is visible to the shrub. Remove dead buds, shoots and broken branches.

• From correct pruning depends on the decorativeness of the shrub.
• Some types of hydrangea have a very developed shoot-forming ability.
• If you do not thin out the bush, it will quickly thicken and will bloom less abundantly with small inflorescences.
• On a heavily neglected perennial, flowers may not form.
• It is necessary to cut small branches inside the bush that do not give full-fledged inflorescences.

To enhance flowering, last year's shoots must be shortened, leaving 1-3 strong pairs of buds. One pair is left on a thin shoot, and several inflorescences will fully develop on a thick shoot.

Large-leaved hydrangea blooms from the upper buds of last year's shoots. Therefore, it is important to keep the tops of young shoots that did not bloom last year. The lower buds on the shoots rarely bloom. Old shoots that are more than 4-6 years old do not produce flowers, so they must be removed.



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Diseases and pests

It’s worth saying right away that the lion’s share of hydrangea diseases is transferred through seedlings. Therefore, you should buy hydrangea seedlings only in reliable nurseries, and when propagating hydrangeas with cuttings, be sure that the parent plant is healthy. Most often, hydrangea diseases occur when high humidity air, especially with a strong density of plantings.

Another group of hydrangea diseases occurs due to a lack of certain substances, first of all it is chlorosis, which manifests itself as yellowing of hydrangea leaves. Let's start our review with it.

Hydrangea chlorosis

Hydrangea chlorosis occurs due to metabolic disorders in the plant. It is experiencing iron deficiency, as a result of which the leaves of hydrangeas turn yellow, brighten, and the veins on the leaves remain dark. If you try to ignore this disease of hydrangeas, over time the plant will weaken and lose its beauty.

• To prevent chlorosis of hydrangeas, they are fertilized with iron-containing preparations according to the instructions.
• You should also avoid watering hydrangeas with tap water; for these purposes, it is better to take softer, rainwater.

Most often, the leaves of hydrangeas growing on soils rich in lime and overfed with humus turn yellow. But what if the leaves of hydrangeas have already turned yellow?



For a faster recovery of the bush, it is recommended spraying hydrangeas preparations Agricol, iron chelate, antichlorosis, ferovit, ferrilen, micro Fe, brexil. In particular advanced cases chlorosis of hydrangeas, these drugs should be applied under the root.

Another option - treatment of hydrangea from chlorosis with a solution of potassium nitrate(40 grams of potassium nitrate per bucket of water) and iron sulfate(iron vitriol) in the same concentration. After 2-3 waterings with saltpeter, wait three days and pour over with a solution of ferrous sulfate.

Fungal diseases of hydrangeas

Do not be alarmed - in fact, hydrangeas are rarely affected by fungal diseases. But it is better to be prepared for unpleasant surprises. A universal remedy for fungal diseases of hydrangeas is the treatment with copper oxychloride (HOM) - this is the most suitable fungicide for hydrangeas.

White rot of hydrangeas

white rot hydrangeas This fungal disease of hydrangeas begins with root rot. As a result, the plant does not receive nutrients, it turns brown and dies. If the disease affects young hydrangeas, the growing shoots and leaves darken, begin to rot and become covered with “cotton wool” - a soft white bloom. Over time, black blotches appear in the “cotton wool” - sclerotia. The causative agent of the disease remains in the soil, getting there with plant debris.

Hydrangea white rot treatment: for fungal diseases of hydrangeas, phytosporin showed high efficiency. Other fungicides may also be used.

Gray mold of hydrangeas



Gray rot

Another dangerous disease of hydrangeas, in which the tissues of the plant become watery, soft. In dry weather, the dead tissue dries up, falls out, and holes remain in the leaves and on the stem. In wet weather, the fungus spreads very quickly, all infected areas are covered with "gray wool". Gray rot is difficult to exterminate, since this disease is characteristic of almost all garden plants.

Treatment of gray mold of hydrangeas: dead parts of hydrangeas must be removed. The results are obtained by processing hydrangeas with Chistotsvet, Skorom, Fundazol.

Downy mildew of hydrangeas (downy mildew)



This hydrangea disease manifests itself in the form of oily, over time and darkening spots on the stems and leaves. Fungal disease actively develops with high humidity and a temperature of 18-20 degrees.

Treatment of downy mildew of plants: the plant is treated with a solution of soapy water and copper sulfate (15 grams of vitriol and 150 grams of soap per bucket of water). This treatment of hydrangeas will help in the early stages of the disease. You can treat hydrangea with fungicides.

Powdery mildew of hydrangeas

Powdery mildew of hydrangeas This fungal disease of hydrangeas is characterized by the presence of yellow-green spots on the leaves, which eventually turn brown and take on clear forms. At the same time, a purple or grayish coating is visible on the lower part of the sheet. Over time, the affected leaves fall off. Young shoots are especially affected by this fungus, they are deformed and, as a rule, do not survive wintering.

Powdery mildew treatment: hydrangea is sprayed with fungicides - Alirin-B, Fitosporin-M. If the hydrangea disease has severely affected the plant, Chistotsvet, Thiovit Jet, Topaz, Skor, Strobi, Cumulus can be used.

Septoria hydrangeas (septoria blotch of hydrangeas)


Septoria hydrangeas Such a disease of hydrangeas as septoria manifests itself in the form brown spots rounded irregular shape, with a light center and a dark rim. Hydrangea septoria affects leaves, but in neglected plants it spreads to young stems and petioles. Over time, the spots merge, the leaves die off. Hydrangea disease septoria reduces the ability of hydrangeas to hibernate.

Treatment of septoria hydrangeas: treatment with copper-containing preparations - copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, etc.

Among other common fungal diseases of hydrangeas - common cancer, tracheomycosis wilt, cortical necrosis, phyllostic and ascochitous spotting. In general, the treatment of hydrangeas for fungal diseases is carried out with fungicides. But fungal diseases- not the worst thing that can happen to hydrangea.

Viral diseases of hydrangeas

Hydrangea ring spot The most frequently occurring Hydrangea ring spot is a viral disease of hydrangeas. Initially, blurry spots of necrosis in the form of rings appear on the leaves of hydrangeas, the leaves begin to wrinkle, become asymmetric. With a strong defeat by the ring spot, the plant cannot lay buds, or the flowers turn out to be small, weak.

Hydrangea ring spot treatment. Unfortunately, this viral disease of hydrangeas cannot be treated. You need to carefully monitor the quality of seedlings.



Hydrangea pests



Snails on hydrangeas

Snails love hydrangeas. Most often it is an ordinary amber or a grape snail. They especially like moist shady thickened plantings. Snails on hydrangeas eat buds, young shoots and leaves.

Snails pose a great danger to hydrangeas wintering under shelter: mollusks burrow into the soil around the bush, and as soon as the temperature rises in spring, they get out of the ground and feed on the first buds and leaves. Near the hydrangea bush, you can see the clutches of snails.

How to get rid of snails on hydrangeas: in addition to the mechanical destruction of these mollusks and their clutches in spring and summer, metaldehyde or "Thunderstorm" can be used.

These poisonous preparations should not be placed directly on the ground - they clog the soil, and cease to act, mixing with the soil. Chemicals are poured into cups and laid out in a horizontal position around the bush.

Spider mite on hydrangea



If you notice that small yellow spots, eventually merging into a marble pattern - this is the spider mite on the hydrangea. Over time, the affected leaf dries out and falls off. If these hydrangea pests have thoroughly populated the bush, you can see cobwebs with mites (with a small lesion, the spider mite is not visible to the naked eye), necrosis appears.

Hydrangea treatment from poutine tick: apply insectoacaracids and acaracids - thiophos, preparations Lightning, Akarin, Fitoverm, Vermitek. With a weak damage to the hydrangea by a spider mite, treatment with mineral oil or soap can help.

Aphids on hydrangeas


Settling on hydrangeas, the aphid sucks the juice from the plant, simultaneously polluting it with sugary secretions. They, in turn, serve as food for soot fungi. Aphids on hydrangeas are also dangerous because they can carry viruses. Aphids settle on the lower part of the leaf, with a strong lesion, the hydrangea may turn yellow, and the leaves will fall off.

Treatment of hydrangeas from aphids: with a weak lesion, you can simply try to wash off the hydrangea pests soapy water. Insecticides - Tobacco dust, Spark, Bison, Antilin, Fitoverm, Aktara, Akarin, Tanrek, Commander and other means - are used for large-scale aphids.

Gall nematode on hydrangea



This pest lives on the roots of hydrangeas. Microscopic worms - gall nematodes - form brown round swellings on the root, called galls. The galls rot, the roots die off, the hydrangeas do not receive nutrients. Most often, this pest of hydrangeas affects young bushes.

There are a lot of insects that can harm hydrangeas: bugs, pennitsy, leaf-eating pests (weevils, leaf beetle, caterpillars, scoops, deer, bronzovki, earwigs). However, for a healthy strong plant and caring owner these pests are not particularly scary.

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Wrong variety selected

Hydrangea may not bloom due to the whimsicalness of the variety. Not all types of flower shrubs, even with careful care, quickly adapt to a new climate. Sometimes from planting a seedling to the moment of flowering takes from five to seven years.

• When choosing a hydrangea variety, you should study the requirements for its care.
• For example, paniculate hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata, Unique, Kyushu, Grandiflora, Brussels Lace, Limelight) and tree hydrangea (Annabelle, Hydrangea arborescens) take root in cool regions,
• while large-leaved (Hydrangea acrophyla, Blauer Zwerg, Gerda Steiniger, Ever Peppermint, Endless Summer) and oak-leaved (Hayes Starburst, Incrediball, White Dome) are more suited to temperate climates.

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Types and varieties of hydrangeas for Russian gardens.

Hydrangea- a separate genus of flowering plants belonging to the Hortensia family. The family is represented by small trees and shrubs. The genus includes up to 80 plant species, widely popular in Asia, Europe and America. Individual species, more adapted to the conditions of detention, are often found in China and Japan. Many varieties have gained popularity among domestic gardeners due to their unsurpassed appearance, durability and unpretentiousness.

• Hydrangea macrophylla
• Hydrangea
• Hydrangea paniculata
• hydrangea oak-leaved
• petiolate hydrangea
• serrate hydrangea
• Hydrangea radiata
• ashy hydrangea

Did you know? The plant was named after the beautiful princess Hortense, who was the sister of the prince of the Roman Empire.

Hydrangea macrophylla


Hydrangea macrophylla- tall ornamental shrub, hallmark which are uncharacteristically large leaves. AT favorable conditions growth and with proper care can reach 2.5-3 meters in height. The inflorescences are round in shape and, depending on the type, can have a different color, ranging from pale blue to pink.

In general, caring for this type of flower comes down to soil care, regular watering and periodic fertilization, but creating conditions for the quality of the soil and the amount of sunlight is slightly difficult.

In view of this, earlier it was not necessary to talk about planting a large-leaved plant in our country. Fortunately, new, more adapted varieties of this ornamental species appear regularly.

Thus, the garden hydrangea of ​​the Blaumais variety is a modern breakthrough in domestic horticulture, because due to the characteristics of the growth of the shrub, only gardeners with extensive experience could previously grow it correctly. With the breeding of such varieties, planting has been greatly simplified, and the demands of the plant for care have decreased.

Hydrangea large-leaved, winter-hardy varieties which prevail in the domestic market of ornamental plants, easily tolerates difficult climatic conditions and changeable weather. Best suited for landing in middle lane our country.

Important! Despite the relative winter hardiness of this species, immature and / or young shrubs do not tolerate severe frosts, so it is strongly recommended to cover the plant for the winter.

Hydrangea



tree hydrangea- one of the most popular types of tall ornamental shrubs. The homeland of this species is North America, where the shrub often grows over 4-5 meters (in Russian gardens it rarely exceeds 2-3 meters). The leaves of the species are large, opposite, saturated green. Inflorescences of spherical shape, reaching 20 cm in diameter, are formed at the top of annual shoots. The initial greenish color of the flowers eventually turns into a soft cream.

Individual varieties have a significant number of fertile inflorescences, but along with this, in Russian gardens one can often find shrubs with absolutely sterile inflorescences. Thus, the variety of adapted varieties of this species makes it possible to make a choice in favor of the shrub that will most harmoniously fit into the garden.

• This species is extremely unpretentious and for the most part includes adapted and winter-hardy hydrangea varieties.
• The plant easily tolerates slight darkening, heavy soil and any neighborhood.

It is noteworthy that annual shoots of a flower, as a rule, do not have time to fully mature before autumn, therefore, in winter period frosted over.

However, to restore the bush, a slight spring pruning and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is sufficient. At the same time, annual flowering is guaranteed.

Due to the climatic conditions of our region in Russian gardens, it blooms one of the first (at the end of June) and continues to bloom until late autumn.

Due to their durability, unpretentiousness and adaptation, varieties of tree hydrangeas are best suited for the Moscow region. The most common variety within our state is Sterilis, which is characterized by large spherical inflorescences, consisting of frequent small flowers reaching 1 cm in diameter.

Hydrangea arborescens usually has sterile flowers that provide profuse decorative blooms.

Hydrangea paniculata


Paniculata hydrangea- a type of ornamental shrub or tree, reaching up to 5 meters in height. It got its name due to the special shape of the crown, leaf plate and inflorescences. In the wild, this plant is found in China, Japan, Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. At the same time, in their natural habitat, trees and bushes of the species often exceed 5-7 meters in height, while maintaining proportions to the diameter of the crown.

In Russian gardens, this plant is rightfully one of the most ornamental plants, which, at one's own discretion, can be grown in one form or another (shrub, single-stemmed and multi-stemmed tree).

The shoots are brown in color and quickly woody, which determines the resistance to difficult climatic conditions. Its leaves are oblong, arranged oppositely. Inflorescences are located on most young shoots, which guarantees an annual abundant flowering.

The appearance of buds occurs at the end of June - the beginning of July, but their blooming proceeds slowly, which is why it blooms in full force only in August - September.

The inflorescences of this type of ornamental shrub differ pyramidal shape and consist of a mixture of frequent sterile and fertile greenish flowers, which eventually acquire a delicate cream color.

autumn period

In autumn, with sufficient sunlight inflorescences change color to pink, brick or pale purple.

This type of ornamental plant is very unpretentious and resistant even to the conditions of the north-west of our country.

Until recently, only individual garden forms and varieties were grown in Russian gardens. paniculate hydrangea, but thanks to the efforts of breeders, tree and paniculate hydrangeas regularly receive new varieties. Fortunately, almost every new representative of the species, even regardless of climatic conditions, is to some extent prepared for cultivation in the gardens of our country.

To date, the most common variety of this plant is Grandiflora, which is characterized by large dense inflorescences (the length of which, as a rule, reaches 30-35 cm), mainly consisting of sterile flowers.

• Fruiting flowers are only at the top of the brushes.
• The variety gained popularity due to its large size, attractive appearance and, above all, sweet honey aroma.
• Varieties of panicled hydrangea are winter-hardy, but do not forget that young shrubs always need reliable protection for the winter period.
• To do this, you should additionally dig in the root system and cover it with leaves, and tie up the shoots.

Did you know? Hydrangea paniculata differs from others in its unusually long lifespan and long-term preservation of its decorative appearance. In one place, a shrub can grow for more than 40 years.

hydrangea oak-leaved



hydrangea oak-leaved- deciduous ornamental flowering shrub reaching a height of up to one meter.

This species is distinguished by unusually large (up to 20 cm in length) 5-7-lobed leaf blades. Depending on the season, their color changes from dark green in summer to purple in autumn. The underside of the sheet is white tomentose. Outwardly, they are similar to an oak leaf.

• The inflorescences are panicles of a conical shape 20 cm long.
• On the entire surface of the brush, large snow-white flowers are densely located, the diameter of which, as a rule, is 3-4 cm.
• In the process of flowering, the inflorescences turn pink, and after that they completely acquire a raspberry color.

hydrangea oak-leaved, whose winter hardiness is one of its advantages, sometimes needs seasonal shelter. As a rule, this applies to young or diseased shrubs. Moreover, before wintering, it is best to loosen the soil around by 15-20 cm. In this way, the root system of the plant can be effectively protected from freezing.

Important! The oak-leaved hydrangea is extremely moisture-loving, so it is necessary to ensure regular watering in sufficient volume (based on the size of the plant). Moreover, you should carefully look after the soil, loosening it and promptly clearing it of weeds.

Oakleaf hydrangeas, the varieties of which are optimally suited for growing in Russian gardens, are not very popular, but they fully deserve it thanks to the leaves that are completely unique for this shrub.

petiolate hydrangea



petiolate hydrangea- perennial ornamental plant, representing flowering liana. It is because of this appearance that this species is also called curly.

In the wild, it is most often found in the expanses of the Kuril Islands, Sakhalin, China and Japan, where it often reaches 20-25 meters in length.

Under growing conditions in Russian gardens, its size is significantly smaller. The flower is not only simply fixed on a support with the help of its aerial roots, but it can also spread along the ground, but in this case the plant will not bloom.

inflorescences

The leaf plate of this species is wide, with a characteristic heart-shaped base. Inflorescences are loose umbrellas, reaching 20-25 cm in diameter. Their color (white-green, lilac, pink and others) depends on the variety.

petiolate view differs in high frost resistance, but in some cases (with especially severe frosts) it can slightly freeze. In view of this, young shoots in the first frosts are best removed from the support and covered for wintering under the snow.

It is safe to say that this species belongs to the best varieties hydrangeas to create a hedge. But along with this, she makes special demands on the conditions of detention, so the view in the vastness of our state is rare, but deserves attention.

Important!Petiole hydrangea is extremely whimsical to the quality and component composition of the soil. So, any insignificant deviation from the required conditions of detention can cause a disease of a plant or even its death.

serrate hydrangea



serrate hydrangea- tree-like ornamental shrub, reaching a height of up to 1.5 meters. It is distinguished by a lush crown of large diameter and bright green oval-shaped leaves, pointed at the top. The serrate hydrangea shrub is classified as an annual.

• The inflorescences of the plant are shaped like a ball, while inside it the blue color is more saturated than along the edge.
• At the end of flowering, the inflorescences acquire a pale pink color.
• It is noteworthy that in some cases the color of the flowers may be different, since for this species it directly depends on the acidity of the soil in the area.

This shrub blooms from late June to September, often surpassing other varieties of hydrangea in beauty. It easily tolerates possible transplants, even despite the quality of the planting soil, but prefers moderate watering throughout the entire period of growth and flowering.

For the correct and safe wintering of the shrub, it is necessary to cut off the withered inflorescences and cover with a dense film. In general, the plant is extremely unpretentious.

It is perfect for landing garden plots in the middle zone of our state.

Did you know? Hydrangea serrata is fully adapted to the climatic conditions of our region, therefore it is almost never attacked. garden pests and diseases.

Hydrangea radiata



Hydrangea, species and varieties for Russian gardens which are full of variety, invariably attracts domestic gardeners with its amazing beauty and unpretentiousness. It can be safely attributed to the number of the most popular types.

This type of shrub can reach up to 3 meters in height and is distinguished by an oval-lanceolate shape of leaf plates, pointed at the top. The external decorative appearance of the plant is provided by a multitude of sterile snow-white flowers, united in massive corymbs.

The flowering period falls on the middle of summer and lasts, as a rule, about a month. Ripening itself falls at the beginning of autumn (September).

Hydrangea radiata does not belong to winter-hardy species, and in winter its root system should be carefully protected with dry foliage or mounds.

The growth rate of such a plant is surprisingly high, and propagation by cuttings is simple and effective. It is in view of this that the plant is very often found in the design of landscape design in the southern regions of the country.

ashy hydrangea



Ash hydrangea- ornamental shrub (deciduous), capable of reaching up to 2 meters in height. It is distinguished by a crown of large diameter, represented by leaves lowered from below and young shoots. The leaves of the plant have a wide elliptical shape and can reach sizes up to 15 centimeters. Fine teeth are evenly spaced along the edges of the leaf plates.

Inflorescences of corymbose form, as a rule, reach 15-20 centimeters in diameter and bloom in mid-summer (late June - early July).

She is without much difficulty tolerates the winter climate of our region, however, young garden hydrangea varieties have reduced winter hardiness, so they can freeze slightly.

Requirements for the composition of the soil

A shrub of this species, similar to a tree-like one, does not impose special requirements on the composition of the soil, its moisture content and fertility, which is why the ashy hydrangea can rightfully be considered indispensable for planting as a decorative hedge.

In your garden, you can also plant such shrubs: juniper, dog rose, felt cherry, heather, snowberry.

For this type flower, you can choose absolutely any place on the site, regardless of the constancy natural light, watering and soil acidity. At the same time, she retains her decorative properties throughout the vegetative period.

Based on all of the above, we can conclude that at present numerous types of garden hydrangea have been bred, which quite easily tolerate the climatic conditions of our region.

At the same time, their unsurpassed appearance tirelessly pleases the eye and creates amazing beauty on the garden plot, and winter-hardy varieties, which, by the way, are most common in our region, guarantee the plant's durability and vitality practically under any conditions.

This plant, combining the beauty of flowering and ease of care, can rightfully be considered the most the right choice for planting in your own backyard.

agronomy.com

History of hydrangea

botanical name hydrangeas – hydrangea- comes from two Greek words: hydor (which means "water") and angos (which translates as "vessel"). Thus, flowers are vessels with water.

If you look closely, the seed pods of the flower really resemble a jug or flask in shape. And the flower received the poetic name "hydrangea" in honor of Princess Hortensia, the sister of the prince of the Holy Roman Empire.

This flower belongs to the hydrangea family, which has more than a hundred species. The plant loves moist soil and a cool but not frosty climate.



Hydrangeas look especially impressive in the autumn, when young buds, flowering seed heads and multi-colored leaves side by side on the same bush.

• Indigenous peoples of the North and South America even before the arrival of Columbus, they believed that hydrangea is a miraculous plant that helps to heal diseases and ward off troubles.
• In Europe, this flower was only in the XVIII century, and brought it from Japan.
• An unusual plant has become a real sensation.
• In Germany, England and France, hydrangeas began to grow in the gardens of wealthy nobles.
• I had to master the selection in order to delicate flowers became more resistant to cold.



Audzisai - sacred flower

One of the most beautiful flower legends comes from Japan. It says that hydrangea flowers appeared on Buddha's birthday. According to some sources, this happened in 473 BC. At the moment when the baby was born, magnificent flowers suddenly fell from the sky, and with them the amacha nectar flowed.

The Japanese gave the flowers the name "aujisai". Even today, for Japanese Buddhists, aujisai is a sacred flower that is grown in temples.

A traditional tea called amacha is made from hydrangea leaves. It symbolizes divine nectar.

Hydrangea in the language of flowers



• The most common meaning of this flower is modesty, truthfulness, faith and hope.
• In some cases, hydrangea symbolizes unrequited love.
• Hydrangea is considered the patron flower for those born between April 11 and 20.

redroseflowers.ru

Often even experienced flower growers are faced with the problem of lack of flowers in the garden. This plant is demanding on growing conditions. The slightest mistake in care can lead to the fact that its buds wither and fall off, or even do not appear at all.

To ensure long and abundant flowering of young and adult bushes, you need to know what factors most often affect their flowering. In this case, you can quickly fix the problem when it occurs.

The main reasons for the lack of flowering and their solution

Most often, novice flower growers make the following gross mistakes in caring for a flower. Why garden hydrangea does not bloom:




Often there are anomalies in the growth and development of the root system, especially in newly acquired plants. This leads to a violation of the development of the bush and the lack of flowering.

Consider the reasons why the hydrangea does not bloom in more detail.

Preparing for the winter

Hydrangea does not tolerate frost. Any decrease in air temperature below 0ºС can lead to freezing of flower buds. In this case, the plant will not bloom. To protect the bush from frost, it must be covered for the winter.

Without waiting for the autumn frosts, the leaves are cut off from the bush, the branches are pulled together with a tourniquet and wrapped with covering material. The bush is bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches. In the spring, it is gradually freed from spruce branches, but finally opened only with the departure of frost and the onset of heat.

pruning

In order for the plant to bloom, it must be cut correctly. In the spring, dry, old and weak branches are pruned.

All well-developed shoots of the previous year are not touched. Usually it is on their tops that flowers form. If an inexperienced grower cuts off these shoots, the plant will not form buds and will not bloom.

top dressing

Hydrangea does not respond well to excess fertilizer in the soil. It is especially harmful to apply nitrogen fertilizers to the soil in summer and early autumn.

They are used to enhance the growth of green mass and do not contribute to flowering. And the rapid growth of shoots in the fall leads to the fact that they do not have time to ripen for the cold and freeze.

Proper feeding of the plant is carried out several times a season. At the end of spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to enhance the growing season. In summer, fertilizing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers is used to stimulate and maintain flowering. In early September, potassium-phosphorus preparations are applied to strengthen the shoots and prepare for winter.

Root development and flowering

For flowering, the bush must have a powerful root system. If the roots are poorly developed, there is no hope for early flowering. Bushes that are too young or overfed with fertilizers can take several years to form roots. And only after that such bushes bloom.

Choosing the right place for planting a bush and caring for it will allow you to overcome all difficulties and achieve annual flowering.

Also affect the flowering of the bush can:

• Insufficient watering;
• High air temperature;
• Excess sunlight or its lack;
• Heavy clay soil.

Reasons for the lack of flowering in some species and varieties

Different types of hydrangea have their own, peculiar only to this variety, reasons for the absence of flowers and buds. Among garden hydrangeas, the most popular are:

Consider the most likely reasons why they do not bloom.

Panicled hydrangea is the most frost-resistant species. It tolerates cold so easily that it can not be covered at all for the winter. Its buds do not freeze over, as inflorescences are formed on the shoots of the current year. However, this species may not bloom for some other reason.

The main reason why panicle hydrangea does not bloom is the unsuitable composition of the soil.. For such a plant, heavy loamy soil with weak acidity is more suitable. Light sandy soils are not acceptable for this species.

Also very often the plant refuses to bloom due to lack of nutrition. Therefore, feeding should be given special attention.

Why large-leaved hydrangea does not bloom: most often due to freezing of shoots and buds. There are many varieties of this species, which have different winter hardiness.

If some of them can be grown in open ground, covering for the winter, then others freeze out even with careful shelter. Such varieties can only be grown indoors as potted plants.

pruning large-leaved hydrangea also need to be careful. Flowers are formed on the shoots of the previous year, which cannot be touched during pruning. If they are shortened, then the flower buds will be removed and the plant will not bloom.

This species is quite cold hardy. However, if the bushes are not covered, in a harsh winter most of flower buds will freeze. In summer, a frozen bush will not bloom. Therefore, the plant needs to be covered for the winter.

This species needs to be fed regularly., first with fertilizers for leaf growth, then with fertilizers for flowering. Without top dressing, the plant will refuse to bloom.

The reason why it doesn't bloom tree hydrangea, may be improper watering. In overdried soil, especially in the summer heat, such a bush develops very slowly and never blooms.

Garden hydrangea refuses to bloom for several years

Your garden beauty pleased with annual flowering, but for several years now there have been no flowers on it. What is the reason? If the bush was protected from frost, it was properly fed and watered, the most likely cause of the lack of buds are diseases and pests. A plant that is sick or affected by harmful insects will not bloom.

On the garden hydrangea aphids, spider mites, weevils and many other pests settle. To kill insects, it is recommended to treat the bush with insecticides.

Hydrangea is most often affected by viral mosaic disease and fungal diseases.: downy mildew and gray rot. To destroy fungi, the bush is treated with fungicidal preparations. With a viral infection, all affected areas of the plant are cut out and burned.

Proper feeding of garden hydrangea for flowering

What to do if the garden hydrangea does not bloom - perhaps the reasons are in feeding. Top dressing of hydrangeas is a mandatory procedure for proper growth and flowering. Spring, summer and autumn fundamentally differ in the composition of the fertilizers used.

At the beginning of spring when there is an active increase in leaf mass, nitrogen fertilizers are required for the plant. Usually a mixture of urea and potassium sulfate is used. One tablespoon of these substances is diluted in 10 liters of water. For an adult hydrangea bush, about 5 liters of solution are needed. Sometimes slurry is used for irrigation, which is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10.

At the end of spring when the budding period begins, it is recommended to feed the plant with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Superphosphate gives the best results. One tablespoon of this substance is dissolved in 10 liters of water. You can also use any other mineral complex fertilizer.

During summer period when the plant is actively blooming, it is fed 2-3 times with special fertilizers for flowering garden plants. It is also useful to acidify the soil in the place where the bush grows.

To do this, use whey or citric acid. Serum is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3. Citric acid is taken at the tip of a tablespoon and dissolved in 10 liters of water.

At the beginning of autumn to strengthen the shoots and prepare for winter, potash-phosphorus fertilizers are applied. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate in 10 liters of water and water the hydrangea bushes.

Now you know why the hydrangea does not bloom in the garden, but what if you have a houseplant?

Why hydrangea does not bloom indoors

AT room conditions The following reasons are possible due to which the hydrangea refuses to bloom:

• Wrong choice of lighting;
• Unsuitable soil composition for the plant;
• Lack of moisture in the soil and in the air;
• Sharp jumps in temperature;
• Bush age.



For the plant in the room to bloom every year, it must be kept in a bright place, but direct sunlight should not fall on the leaves. With a lack of lighting or its excess, flowering most likely will not occur.

The plant loves acidic soil. Also for indoor varieties it doesn't have to be very heavy. Clay soil is not suitable.

It is better to choose a purchased fertile earthen mixture without clay, but with a small amount peat. Also, we must not forget about the annual transplantation of the bush in new ground so that it blooms long and abundantly.

The flower does not tolerate drying out of the soil and too dry air. For creating optimal conditions its growth and flowering, it is necessary to keep the earthen ball in the pot always wet, and spray the leaves with settled water.

Do not allow a sharp change in temperature in the room where the flower grows. In such conditions, she does not grow buds. If the buds have already formed, then they can fall off from a sharp drop in temperature.

Over time, the plant, even with good care, ceases to bloom. It is recommended to grow a bush for no more than 4-5 years, after which it is better to replace the plant with a young one. You can read more about caring for hydrangeas at home.

Hydrangea is a shrub of great beauty. In horticulture, it is valued for the variety of forms of inflorescences, diverse color palette and very easy maintenance. Often, it turns out that a person buys with hands blooming hydrangea, transplants it, but the inflorescences gradually begin to fade, and over time it dries completely. So why is the hydrangea not blooming? In this article, we will try to understand this issue.

Description

Hydrangea belongs to the Hydrangea family, which has about 70-80 plant species. Most species are shrubs 1-3 m high, some species are small trees, the rest are lianas. Most of the plants are deciduous. Hydrangeas bloom from spring to late autumn. The flowers are collected at the end of the stem in beautiful large inflorescences.

The shape of the inflorescences can be:

• oval;
• spherical;
• In the form of a panicle;
• In the form of a bump.

Inflorescence color:

• White;
• Blue;
• Pink;
• purple;
• Crimson;
• Red;
• Lilac;
• Cream.

There are varieties that combine several colors in color at the same time. Immediate impact the acidity of the soil affects the color of the inflorescences.

Hydrangea fruit - 2-5 - a separate box with numerous small seeds.

This shrub is native to North America, East and South Asia.

Varieties

A fairly large number of types of hydrangeas are known - these are shrubs, trees and lianas. More and more often they can be found in garden plots in Russia. The most common are:

• Hydrangea paniculata;
• Hydrangea large-leaved (or garden);
• Hydrangea;
• Hydrangea petiolate (climbing);
• Hydrangea oaky;
• Hydrangea radiant;
• Hydrangea ashen (gray);
• Hydrangea serrate;
• Hortense Sargent.

In addition to the above species, there are others, but they are rarely seen in our gardens.



For indoor cultivation, one type of hydrangea is used - this is Large-leaved Hydrangea. This species was brought over 200 years ago from China. This plant blooms from spring to late autumn.

Reasons for the lack of flowering

Many who grow this plant often wonder why the hydrangea does not bloom?

There are actually a lot of reasons:

1. Incorrect pruning of shrubs in the spring.
2. Insufficient watering.
3. Undeveloped root system.
4. The use of "growth stimulant".
5. Badly lit place.
6. Plant freezing in winter.



Hydrangea blooms can be easily restored. You just need to follow all the rules of care, including, do not forget to periodically fertilize.

Landing and care rules

Hydrangea is a photophilous plant. But bright sunshine and strong wind she can be harmed. Grows well in shady places. Hydrangea loves fertile, acidic, loose soils.



Landing rules:

• Plant in the spring, when the soil has warmed up and the danger of frost has passed.
• Before planting, the plant must be cut and the roots shortened.
• The planting hole should be spacious 50 * 50 or 80 * 80 cm, depending on the size of the plant.
• The soil must be fertilized - organic and mineral fertilizers must be applied.
• The planted bush should be watered abundantly and covered with fallen leaves. For irrigation, it is better to defend the water, which saves the plant from leaf chlorosis. Watering is best done in the morning and evening, when there is no hot sun.
• Some species and varieties must be pruned annually during the appearance of the buds to prevent a strong extension of the bushes in length.

Even a beginner in gardening can quickly learn how to care for this plant. It is only necessary to carry out watering in a timely manner, loosen the ground and prepare the plant for wintering. You also need to know the measure of fertilizer application. If their number is too large, then too voluminous inflorescences will form, and under their weight the branches can simply break.

reproduction

Propagation of hydrangeas is carried out in the following ways:

• layering;
• seeds;
• cuttings.

the most efficient and the easy way propagation of hydrangeas by cuttings is considered.

Diseases and pests

The main diseases that affect this luxurious plant:

1. Chlorosis, in which yellowness appears on the leaves.
1. Gray rot leading to brown rotted spots on the leaves.
1. Septoria, causing the appearance of brown spots on leaves with a diameter of about 5 mm. In this case, the infected leaf darkens over time and completely disappears.
1. Rust, which is characterized by a rusty color on the leaves.



But in addition to diseases, various pests and insects can overcome hydrangea:

1. Aphid. It can be found on back side leaves. A flower affected by this pest grows very poorly.
1. Spider mite. Finding this pest is not difficult, as the branches are covered with cobwebs.
1. Slugs. They eat leaves.

For the prevention and control of pests and insects, the soil should be treated with various chemicals: insecticides, antifungal drugs, pesticides, folk remedies.

Use in landscaping, combination with other plants

Hydrangea is at the peak of popularity today. It is used to create different floral ensembles and garden styles.

With the help of hydrangeas, unique compositions are created in the garden. It can be used in tandem with lilac, spirea and mock orange. You can also combine this plant with other garden flowers that have a similar shape. This creates an amazing effect during the flowering period.

If the hydrangea is planted near a reservoir, then it can be combined with plants that love moist soil, for example, hosta, astilba, bergenia.

Medicinal properties and uses

Hydrangea can be not only a decoration of the garden. Since ancient times, the Cherokee Indians have used hydrangea root for kidney problems.

It has the following medicinal properties:

• soothing;
• Diuretic;
• Prevents stone formation in the kidneys;
• Painkillers;
• bactericidal.



Hydrangea is used to treat:

Angina. Flowers and leaves are used. 1/10 tbsp Pour boiling water over the mixture and bring to a boil. Infuse for 1 hour, then strain. Take 100 ml 3 times a day in a warm form 30 minutes before meals.

diarrhea. Fresh crushed leaves are used. 2 tsp leaves in 1 cup boiling water. Infuse for about an hour, then strain. Take 2 tbsp. 3 times a day before meals.

Cystitis. Fresh leaves or branches are used. Preparation: pour crushed leaves or branches with alcohol in a ratio of 1: 1. Let him insist. Take ½ tsp. 2 times a day.