How much material is needed for a 3x4 frame bath. Do-it-yourself frame bath - projects, drawings and step-by-step construction instructions

At the end of last summer, my son and I decided on our own at our dacha. We already have a capital house there, and besides, there are no problems with electrification and water supply. The choice was made on frame construction, as it is not only economical, but also built in a matter of days.

Having prepared a project for a 4.5 x 4.5 m bath, I began to purchase timber, boards, fasteners, power tools, metal tiles, insulation, OSB, hydro and vapor barrier. I also ordered the delivery of fireclay and ordinary red bricks, refractory clay for the furnace. By the way, I designed the sauna stove myself. An experienced master stove-maker helped me in laying, nevertheless, I wanted the stove to be as efficient and safe as possible. I drew up a scheme of the furnace on a sheet in a cage, I tried to shoot the construction process (including the construction of a house) in as much detail as possible so that my experience would be useful to other people.

Of course, building a bathhouse together is quite difficult, so at some points two more brave workers helped my son and me.

layout

To begin with, a draft of our future bath was drawn up. We thought over the location of the rest room, shower room, steam room, and the location of the stove. According to the project, we calculated the location of the water supply and sewer pipes, the places for laying electrical cables. We decided to build a gable roof with a window on the pediment. There should be a place for an attic under the roof, where we will store tools or bath brooms. There will be two windows in total, not taking into account what is under the roof. One - as a light source in the relaxation room (120 x 120 cm), the other two for additional ventilation of the steam room (60 x 60 cm) and washing (90 x 60 cm). We will install a metal door, for greater security of property during our absence in the country.

The entrance group will consist of a small wooden staircase and a gable canopy, also made of wood.

It was decided to build the foundation from asbestos-cement pipes. There are 24 columns in total, and 5 of them will hold the stove. In the future, a blind area will be laid around the foundation of the bath and a stormwater drain will be equipped, because I am not eager to go out into the damp, dirty yard after pleasant procedures.

We placed the bath in one of the corners of the site. Near a high fence and trees. An ideal place, in my opinion, for construction. Perhaps in the near future we will build a font or a small font on the lawn near the bathhouse.

Foundation

The foundation, as I said, under our bath is columnar. First, with the help of mercenaries, we removed with shovels a layer of soil with grass growing on it. The site was leveled, after which markings began.

The first corner was marked by sticking a peg into the ground and aligning it with a plumb line. For further marking, a square and a five-meter tape measure came in handy. They tied a cord to the first peg, measured 450 mm, checked the angle and stuck two more pegs, respectively, denoting the second and third corners of the bath. Similarly, pulling the cord, set the last fourth peg.

Despite the fact that we checked the corners with a square, the measurement of the diagonals showed slight inaccuracies. I had to correct them by slightly shifting the stakes and clearly leveling them.

The next step in the work was marking the location of the columns, the distance between which is 112.5 cm. The location was marked by simply sticking the reinforcement bars shallowly.

The bath will have one interior partition connected to the corner of the stove. Using a tape measure, my son and I took measurements and marked the position of one column, which will hold the partition and four more columns, which will later be under the stove.

After all the calculations and markings, it's time to drill holes for the foundation pillars. Under the ground, they will go one and a half meters and stick out of the ground for another 30 cm. The photo shows that we removed the cords, but left the pegs. The pits were dug out quite quickly - the workers drilled with a gas drill, the son helped to carry the earth. By the way, the diameter of the pits was about 30 cm, that is, 5 cm more than the diameter of the asbestos-cement pipes.

To make the posts stand firmly, I poured a layer of gravel and sand at the bottom of the pits, after which I tamped this backfill with a manual rammer. I made it myself, nailing a bar-handle perpendicularly to a long birch log. The principle is simple - he fell asleep gravel, took a log, lowered it into a pit and knocked it several times.

Sand and gravel were poured into each pit, tamped and placed pillars, under the stove - 5 pieces

The cement for the posts, my son and I kneaded in a small electric. They poured cement, sand, a little crushed stone, mixed and poured water. The columns were filled according to all the rules. First, the pipe was lowered into the pit, then the first layer of mortar was poured into it. We raised the pipe so that part of the glass solution was at the bottom of the pit, after which we lowered it, leveled it, and even then filled it with layers of 20-30 cm to the top. Each layer had to be compacted using the same log with a crossbar. Fortunately, the diameter of the log was smaller than the diameter of the pipes. In order not to stain the poles, concrete was poured through a narrow chute and a plastic funnel. It turned out neat enough. After pouring, we drove reinforcement rods (threaded studs) into the concrete. The top edge was left to stick out a little above the concrete in order to later attach the bars of the lower trim. Lastly, sand was poured into the space between the walls of the pits and pipes. At this point, the construction work was temporarily completed.

After two days, having had a good rest, I took up the foundation for the furnace. I cut the chipboard sheet into 5 parts - 4 for the formwork walls and 1 for the bottom. I tried on the largest sheet on the support posts, then went to drill holes in it for the studs, and at the same time nailed the sides with nails. I put the resulting box with holes on the studs, prepared the nuts with washers and, leveling the sheet, slowly tightened the fasteners. From below, the formwork was supported by boards.

To make the foundation under the furnace stronger, I made a reinforcing cage. I found a welded mesh, cut out two pieces almost to the size of the formwork and welded pieces of wire so that the frame turned out to be voluminous. Look at the diagram, it shows how the bars are arranged. Of course, ideally, not to use a welded mesh, but to independently tie individual rebars with soft wire. Such a connection is more plastic and almost never collapses.

It was poured into the formwork with the reinforcing cage laid, mixed with a portion of fine gravel. There is nothing special to tell here - they filled it in, drove out air bubbles with a wire, rammed it, covered it with a film and left it to harden. This process is long, takes a whole month. My son and I did not wait, deciding during this time to make the frame of the bathhouse, the roof and some related work.

Before starting to lay the beams, I dug between the pillars of the sewerage and water supply pipes, so that later I would not have to crawl under the logs.

Bottom trim and subfloors

The bottom trim is the first layer of beams laid on the foundation posts. I took a well-dried beam, 15 x 15 cm, and processed Senezh. The humidity in the bathhouse is quite high, the wood without impregnation will simply begin to rot.

I connected the bars using the “paw” method. For clarity, I drew a diagram with dimensions. In the work I used a hacksaw and a grinder. First, he cut down all the ends, then laid out the beams in a clearing in front of the bathhouse and checked the correctness of the connections.

While I was doing this, my son was laying waterproofing on the foundation - he coated the tops of the pillars with bituminous mastic and glued pieces of roofing material on it.

To lay the harness on the foundation, I had to drill holes for the studs sticking out of the concrete. The beam was laid directly on the poles, markings were made in place, after which I already drilled. Having marked the first two beams, they laid them on the supports, checked with a square so that the angle was exactly 90 degrees, only after that they tightened the fixing nuts. By the way, we didn’t drill holes for intermediate pillars, we cut down the reinforcement so as not to interfere. The timber was screwed with nuts only at the corners of the bath. Two more pieces of timber were laid in the place where the interior partition would be.

The time has come for laying the floor joists. In order not to suffer once again with cutting down the bars, I purchased plates with holes for anchors.

I took the boards with a section of 150 x 50, sawed them and fastened them to the beams using the mentioned fasteners, self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

From above, I sewed up the logs with OSB sheets. It turned out quite a solid draft floor.

Zero ready, subfloor - 22 mm OSB

Prices for OSB (Oriented Strand Board)

OSB (Oriented Strand Board)

Assembling the frame and trusses

Wall assembly

We assembled the walls from the same boards with a section of 150 x 50 mm, fastening them together with metal perforated plates (corners). In theory, the distance between the uprights should be from 60 cm to one meter, and this happened to us, except for the fact that above and below the lintels of the windows, the boards were installed somewhat closer to each other.

The walls are assembled on corners and iron self-tapping screws 45 mm

We made the assembly on the lawn near the bathhouse, so it was much more convenient to measure, cut and fix. The assembly is very simple - first the two upper and two lower boards are fastened, then the window rectangles are assembled, after which the missing lintels and supports are added. In addition, we strengthened the structure of the walls with braces. Also, in order to strengthen the structure, we attached one more board with self-tapping screws (we took galvanized, 45 mm) over three window and one door lintels (pay attention to the photo).

The walls were installed one by one, starting from the front. Alone and even together, it is very difficult to install the structure without distortions, so the assembly was carried out by five people - me, my son and three assistants. The walls were fastened to each other and from the floors with stainless nails 100 mm long, driven in two rows every 45-50 cm. Finally, another row of strapping boards was laid and nailed over the walls. This method of frame construction resembles a children's designer. We assembled and installed the walls in just three days.

rafters

The roof of our bath is gable with hanging rafters. In total, we made 11 trusses. The photo shows how we raised them to the roof.

Farms were made with a slope of 45 degrees and reinforced with two struts. Having made one truss and fastening the elements with perforated plates, I continued to work, using the first triangle as a template for the rest. The rafters of the roof of my bath will be based on the boards of the upper trim, attached to it with corners. Pay attention to the cuts made in the places where the rafters will be in contact with the top trim, as well as to the ends of the rafters, where I cut off a corner for a more aesthetic appearance of the overhangs.

roof trusses

The truss truss, which acts as a pediment, was reinforced with four vertical slats, and I nailed two lintels in the center in order to install a ventilation window in the future.

Two extreme farms were assembled from only two boards each. We fixed these farms last. The photo shows the straps holding them. Thus, on the back of the bath and above the facade, we created small canopies.

Frame and almost finished roof

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Fasteners for rafters

Installation of metal tiles

I decided to cover the bath with Finnish metal tiles Pural matt, because its matte finish is the most resistant to fading and mechanical damage.

Before installing the metal tile, I laid a layer of waterproofing on the roof, which I fixed with thin slats directly to the rafters. Next, with a small gap, he fastened the boards of the crate.

On the crate, I nailed sheets of metal. Ordinary self-tapping screws are not suitable here, so I purchased special ones, painted to match the coating. I laid the metal tile in one row, adhering to the following scheme:

• the leaf was lifted to the roof with ropes;
• work began from the lower right corner. The first was aligned with the cornice and attached with special screws, and they were not screwed in completely so that it was possible to correct the position of the sheet;
• the second sheet was laid with an overlap in one wave and again screwed to the crate with screws;
• the last sheet of the row was fixed when the second row was laid.

Immediately, in order not to return to the roof several times, he cut the lining and hemmed the cornices.

Installation of a drainage system

Gutter mounted with assistants. I chose metal gutters because they are the most durable, although plastic ones are cheaper. I bought gutters with a width of 100 mm and a diameter of 75 mm. The length of the eaves of my bath is 5 meters each, the distance from the cornice to the blind area is 2.5 meters. Based on these data, I purchased two pipes with a length of 2.2 meters, two outlet funnels that fit the gutters, two drain elbows, 4 gutter plugs. Another 4 knees were needed to connect the pipes to the funnels.

The pipes are attached to the wall with clamps every 30 cm, so I took 14 clamps, and 10 brackets, I will mount them on the eaves every meter. It also took four locks to fasten the three-meter gutters.

Work began with markup. I took a ladder, a tape measure, a marker, a thread and climbed under the roof. I needed to tighten the thread so that the gutter was attached with a slope of 5 mm per 1 m, that is, with a total slope of 25 mm.

I attached two extreme adjustable brackets to the crate (15 cm retreated from the edge) and pulled the thread. I checked the slope with a tape measure. The remaining brackets were fixed so that they touched the thread. Next, I nailed the cornice bar to the crate.

By the way, I did all this work even before the installation of the metal tile, and laid the gutters directly when the entire coating was installed. I connected the pipes when they made the outer cladding of the walls of the house.

The gutters were connected with locks. I applied a sealant to the rubber gasket and connected the pipes, leaving a gap of about 3 mm between the ends of the joined elements. Such a gap is needed to compensate for thermal expansion.

In the gutters, I sawed holes in the shape of the letter V with a hacksaw, took the funnels and connected each, simply bringing the edges under the outer bend of the gutter, and then bending the flange to the front edge of the gutter. I installed the funnel at a distance of 15 cm from the end of the gutter.

Installed plugs on the ends of the gutters. The drain elbow was fastened to the pipe with rivets. I didn’t buy the spider that is inserted into the funnel, I bent the wire myself so that it would trap debris.

I fixed the pipe holders with dowels. The pipes are assembled very simply - they are inserted into each other and fastened with clamps, which are pre-nailed to the wall with dowels.

Bath wall cladding

For the external cladding of the walls of the bath, I chose Isoplaat slabs. They have good vapor permeability, and the material is natural. Plus, these plates are a stiffener for the walls of the bath. "Isoplaat" I took a thickness of 25 mm, cut it with a jigsaw and fastened it to the frame with nails.

Green plates - Isoplaat, vapor-permeable. Roof - metal tile Pural Matt

On top of the Isoplaat plates, I pulled the Izospan film. This material is also hydro- and windproof, but at the same time passes steam. I fastened the material with a stapler, overlapping horizontally and vertically by about 10 cm.

From the inside, I insulated the bath with basalt wool. The slabs had to be cut in places, because they did not fit into the space between the uprights. Additionally, I didn’t fasten the cotton wool with anything, it already lay quite tightly.

Already at this stage, my assistants began to make plumbing from polypropylene. This is clearly visible in the photo. I chose this hidden type of pipe installation for aesthetic reasons. In the future, all of them will be hidden under the finish lining.

The outer decorative lining of the bath was made with clapboard. This material was not chosen by chance. Firstly, the bath, lined with wood, has a presentable appearance, and secondly, wooden lining allows the walls to "breathe" and condensate does not accumulate either in the insulation or in the frame itself.

To provide the necessary air layer, I stuffed thin wooden slats 3 cm wide and only half a centimeter thick directly onto the vapor barrier.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Drains for plinth

By the way, it was after I filled the slats and before the start of the installation of the lining that I began to install the ebb for the base. I took the green metal strips. I chose a width of only 50 mm - this is quite enough for a bath. To fix the ebbs evenly, I first pulled the thread, checked the line with a level, and then proceeded with the installation from the far corner of the bath.

I took the first bar, in the center I marked a line across the profile with a pencil. 5 cm retreated from this line to the right and left, put dots and connected them so that a triangle formed. This triangle was cut out with scissors for metal, after which he bent the bar, attached it to the wall of the house and screwed in special self-tapping screws with washers. To make it clearer, I am attaching a schematic that I found on the Web.

The rest of the profiles around the perimeter fastened in the same way - just screwing in the screws and simultaneously checking the horizontal position. All joints were coated with frost-resistant sealant. When I installed all the slats, I additionally strengthened the basement ebbs with mounting foam - I applied it in a small amount under the slats.

Installation of lining

I decided to mount the lining using clamps. Of course, you can just nail the boards, but this is rather ugly.

My son and I simply pressed the first board against the wall, leveled it and fixed it with self-tapping screws, screwing them along the edges of the plank. Then, clamps were inserted from above into the grooves of the first board of the lining (they were inserted next to the laths of the crate stuffed over the vapor barrier) and nails were driven into the existing holes. The second board was inserted into the groove of the previous one. Through the intermediate bar, both boards were tapped with a hammer so that they were tightly connected. Next, the clamps were inserted again and secured with nails. The rest of the boards were fastened in the same way, sawing off the excess in the window and doorways.

I just nailed the last triangle under the roof itself.

When I finished with the walls, I built a small one above the front door. In the future, I brought it to mind, turning it into a gable, sheathed with metal tiles and installed a street lamp under a canopy.

Window

Windows are a different story. You need to install them, observing the technology and avoiding distortions. In the bath, windows should not only be a source of light and provide ventilation, but also retain heat well.

I ordered the windows themselves in advance from one company, but installed everything. To begin with, I took a vapor barrier and waterproofing tape. I fixed the first one along the perimeter of the window frame from its inner side, the second - from the outside, that is, from the street. In the future, I will glue the edges of these tapes to Izospan.

I installed the frame, knocked out the plastic wedges-spacers to form a two-centimeter gap for the foam. Included with the windows were mounting anchor plates with holes, into which I screwed long self-tapping screws. After I foamed the gaps and checked everything with a level again.

By the way, when installing the sash, I shot only from one window - the largest one. I installed small windows without removing the frames.

Door

I ordered a metal door so that ill-wishers would not enter my bathhouse in winter.

First, I took the door off its hinges to try on the box in the opening. All measurements were accurate and the box fit perfectly. I fastened the box with self-tapping screws through the eyes, after knocking wedges under it for alignment. The gaps between the frame of the house and the door frame filled with mounting foam, when it dried up, hung the door leaf.

Bath ceiling

To arrange the ceiling, I took an ordinary larch edged board and carefully nailed it to the floor beams. In the place where there will be a hatch for access to the attic, I cut out a rectangular hole.

Further work continued already in the attic and after the sauna stove was built. I laid foil vapor barrier on the rough ceiling, basalt wool slabs on it, tightly inserting them between the floor beams. On top of the cotton wool, I pulled plastic wrap and secured it with tape. In conclusion, I simply nailed another layer of edged boards. It remains only to make a hatch cover and fix the ladder. Fasteners were included, but I just screwed all the details to the floor beams.

I purchased a solid, retractable ladder, equipped with a ready-made manhole cover. However, so that this cover does not stand out on the ceiling, I carefully trimmed it with slats. It turned out well, the hatch in the closed form became almost imperceptible.

Wiring

I dealt with the issue of electricity thoroughly, trying to do everything carefully and according to the rules. The photo shows that I made the wiring, as well as the water supply pipes, hidden, laying the wires at the stage of internal insulation of the walls of the bath and before finishing.

All wiring is in metal hoses, connections are in boxes at the terminals. In the shield, a common RCD for 30 mA, then 3 circuits

Electricity was pulled from the house through the air, since the distance is small. I screwed a hook into one of the walls of the bath, screwed the same one into the wall of the house (the distance from the hooks to the ground is about three meters). He pulled a strong cable between them, around which a conductive cable was wrapped around.

The photo shows the clips that are attached to the hooks. It is mounted like this:

• the SIP wire is moved apart, a place is being prepared for the clamp;
• the SIP wire is inserted into the grooves of the anchor clamp;
• wires "wedged";
• the anchor clamp is attached to the hook - support.

Sockets, switches (class IP-44) and a shield I installed in the dressing room. The distance from the floor to the sockets was 90 cm. In the steam room and washing room, I pulled wires only for lamps (I tried to do everything away from the stove), because it is too humid in these rooms and it is simply impossible to install sockets.

He took copper cables, pulled them through a non-combustible metal corrugation, which he fastened with clamps. In some places it was necessary to drill holes in the support beams in order to carry out the corrugation. I installed socket boxes when I sheathed the walls with clapboard. And the sockets themselves, switches and beautiful lamps (for the steam room I took with a heat-resistant cover, class IP-54) were installed last.

I do grounding. Grounding was done as expected - a triangle, vertical corners were scalded with a strip of 40 mm. RCD works "on time"

Grounding was done as expected - a triangle, vertical half-meter corners were scalded with a strip of 40 mm. To do this, I had to enlist the help of a familiar electrician, who found a welding machine. A triangular trench was dug near the bathhouse. They drove a triangle welded from the corners into the ground. Then another section of the steel strip was welded, which was brought above the ground near the wall of the bath. An M10 bolt was welded to the end of the strip. Next, it was necessary to drill a hole in the wall of the bath in order to lay a copper grounding conductor (I had 8 mm in diameter) from the ground to the switchboard. We wound the conductor on a bolt, closed the whole thing with a terminal box, and already a qualified electrician and part-time friend of mine was working on the shield.

The whole thing took about two hours. I treated the metal strip with bitumen so that it would not rust. I dug the ditches, tamped them down, next summer I will sow a lawn there.

Sewerage

There will be a shower in the bathhouse, and water procedures are planned in the steam room, so installing a sewer is a must. As an end point for collecting wastewater, I provided a drain well. I dug a one and a half meter hole with a diameter of about 1.2 meters, tamped the bottom, covered it with sand and small gravel. Then we installed two meter-long reinforced concrete rings in the pit. The joint of the rings was smeared with cement mixed with liquid glass.

Trench for water supply. Depth - on the bayonet

Pipes led from the washing room and the steam room. Another pipe was carried out from the position of the urinal. Three holes were made in the floor, pipes were inserted into them. Three pipes were connected to each other with a suitable fitting. A common pipe under a slight slope along a dug trench was laid to the well. The length of one pipe was not enough, I had to connect two straight segments with a coupling. All joints are silicone. At the bottom of the trench, I first poured sand, and I also filled the pipe with it after laying.

The well was covered with a round reinforced concrete slab with a hole. The neck was built of brick, and instead of a lid, he attached a metal hatch for a gas valve. It is of small diameter, but sufficient for inspecting the level of runoff in the well and for pumping wastewater with a sewer. And there is no need to completely climb inside, I think so.

Inspection hatch. Instead of a hatch, a hatch for a gas valve was installed. You can see the level and download. And there is no need to climb inside

Drainage ladders with siphons and filters were installed in the premises. A compact piece that is inserted directly into the sewer pipe. When choosing, I gave preference to a product with a metal grate, guided by considerations of reliability and durability. The grate itself is square with a round hole in the center; when laying the tiles, I did not have to fiddle with cutting for a long time. The drain was equipped in parallel with pouring the floor screed and laying the tiles, which I will discuss later.

Machine for sawing bricks - a grinder on a Chinese bed

Developed and designed by myself. The laying was carried out by the stove-maker, starting from my sketches. Work began before the finishing floors were arranged, the reasons, I think, are clear.

Roofing material was laid on the previously poured foundation and the first row of bricks was laid. In order to prevent distortions, each row of bricks was first laid out without clay mortar. A level was used to check horizontality. Plumb lines were also stretched to control the verticality of the masonry.

The photo shows the second and third row of bricks, forming an ash chamber and an "appendix" needed to warm the bottom of the furnace. This design significantly exceeds the efficiency of classic furnaces with an ash chamber, the area equal to the firebox.

Before installation, I wrapped the doors with asbestos cord and sealed with masking tape. I inserted a knitting wire into the existing holes, twisted it. The stove maker, in the process of laying bricks, placed the long ends of the twisted wire between the rows, which guaranteed a reliable installation of the doors.

In the fourth row, the ash pan was covered, the doors were finally fixed and part of the “appendix” was blocked. Here they laid a cast-iron grate, sawing rectangular cuts in bricks under it. The lattice (size 20 x 30 cm) lay down freely, with a gap of about 2 cm, necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

To make the overlap strong enough, the bricks were cut under the wedge. Metal corners were not used in the arrangement of the ceiling.

Between the fourth and fifth rows, and then every two rows, the stove maker advised to lay a reinforcing steel mesh.

Next, the master laid out the firebox, using yellow fireclay bricks for its walls. The ceilings and the firebox door were equipped according to the principle described above. The detailed laying process is visible in the photo. Fireclay bricks with triangular cuts were also installed in the furnace. These openings are necessary for the supply of secondary air, without which the afterburning of wood gases is impossible.

When laying gas (smoke) channels, as well as between the fireclay core and the outer walls of the furnace, asbestos cardboard was laid. Note the overlap of the fireclay core. Bricks are hewn and installed "on edge".

Also in the photo are visible ledges of red brick, on which cast-iron bricks will be laid. And on top there will be stove stones. To make it clearer, I drew a diagram of the fireclay core indicating the position of the cast-iron bricks and some other elements of the furnace. A fireplace portal facing the steam room will be installed on the right side of the stove. And the doors for cleaning and loading fuel go into the dressing room. Thus, smoke and carbon monoxide will never penetrate into the steam room, and it will be possible to splash some water on the hot stones - “give steam”.

Bath stove. Transition valve frame Sauna stove. fireplace portal

After covering the fireclay core and installing the fireplace portal (see photo), the masonry continued without changes. Inside, straight vertical smoke channels were still formed, which were combined into one on the 20-21st row. An overlap was formed above the distant smoke channel, a valve frame (bypass view) was installed between the channels, the hole in which provided free movement of gases, and above the near smoke channel, the stove-maker installed a chimney valve instead of overlap. The part was laid in pre-prepared cuts in bricks and fixed with chamotte clay and two dowels (holes in the bricks were drilled with a Pobedite drill).

Two rows later, another valve for the pipe was installed. There are three valves in total - two of them for the chimney and one bypass valve installed between the smoke channels (forward running).

Three gate valves - two per pipe and one bypass (forward stroke)

The photo shows the transition to a ceramic pipe, made in the form of four rows of bricks, each of the rows partially overhanging the one below. Above the fourth overhanging row of bricks, three more rows are laid out - the transition to the chimney. In the last row of this transition, a round cut is visible, into which a ceramic chimney will be installed, or rather an element for collecting condensate.

Also on the side machines of the furnace there are brick ledges necessary for the further arrangement of interior partitions.

Overlapping of the furnace was carried out under the ceiling. Metal corners were used, on which the final row of bricks was laid. Sheet asbestos was laid between the ceiling and the bricks.

The installation of the chimney itself (I took a ceramic Italian, Effi Domus for a bath) took quite a bit of time. The blocks were simply installed on top of each other, fixing was carried out with sealant and building clay mortar. A deflector was installed on top of the chimney to protect against precipitation.

The sauna stove was tested a few days later - several newspapers were burned. The traction is just great.

Later, when I was making a finishing floor, I laid a steel sheet with an ash receiver in front of the firebox. It’s easier to sweep this way, and the floor will not catch fire if an ember accidentally falls out.

All the brick that is left 🙂

Refractory brick prices

Refractory brick

Video - Installation of a ceramic chimney

Floor

We warmed up. The steam room and shower are tiled, and the dressing room is covered with laminate. First, I’ll tell you about the steam room and the shower room, there are much more important nuances.

tiling

The tile was bought with a matte finish and rough so that it does not slip. We decided that the tile is much better than the wooden floor - it does not rot, and it is easy to clean. Glue was purchased with the best indicators of moisture resistance.

Waterproofing was laid on the subfloor, overlapping the walls. On top of the waterproofing, insulation was laid - EPS (thickness 30 mm). For better adhesion of XPS with waterproofing, assembly glue was used.

A screed was poured over the insulation along the beacons with a slope towards the drain funnel. Before pouring the mortar, a reinforcing mesh and a set of beacons were laid. The photo shows that we did not attach the beacons to the floor, but to the asbestos mortar - we laid out piles and pressed profiles into them. The solution (cement with sand) was mixed in a rented concrete mixer, because. it was important to pour the entire floor in one day. The solution was laid out from the bucket with a trowel on the grid between the beacons and leveled with a wooden plank - the rule. The floor was finally leveled with a wide spatula and grout.

The tiles were laid from the drain gutter to make it easier to observe the slope. Each was pre-soaked in water. The adhesive was applied with a notched trowel onto the dried and primed screed. At the same time, the entire surface of the floor was not immediately smeared with glue, but only the space for laying 1-2 tiles. The adhesive hardens quickly and should not be covered immediately with a large area of ​​the floor. The thickness of the adhesive layer was kept approximately equal to the thickness of the tile. I collected excess glue around the stacked elements with a simple narrow spatula.

First, all rows of whole tiles were laid out, then parts along the walls. Cut the tiles with a manual tile cutter. By the way, for the accuracy of laying, we pulled the fishing line and used crosses for seams. And for better contact of the tile surface with the binder, immediately after laying, I lightly tapped each square of the tile with a rubber mallet.

Laminate

Installed very quickly. They laid the floor over the insulation with a film, nailed moisture-resistant plywood, rolled out the substrate.

Opened the package with a knife. He took out the first panel and laid it, turning it with a small ledge to the wall. Inserted 2 plastic wedges between the wall and the plank. He took the second bar, snapped it into the end groove of the first. Aligned, again framed the wedges. When I reached the opposite wall, I cut off an extra piece of laminate panel with a circular saw. From the segment and began the next row. The second row was assembled in the same way as the first, after which he lifted the entire floorboard at an angle of 45 degrees and carefully connected it to the latch of the first row, and then knocked it out with a mallet through the bar. The last row had to be cut lengthwise, accurately measuring the cut line.

Walls

The walls, as can be seen in the photo report, are lined with clapboard or tiled. About everything in order.

tiling

We sheathed the walls over the insulation with moisture-resistant GVL. Self-tapping screws were taken for fastening. They were screwed in with a step of 25 cm and retreating slightly from the edge. The sheets were cut so that the joints fell on the beams of the frame.

In the steam room, it was decided to make a plinth of tiles, so I had to purchase two sheets of moisture-resistant drywall, cut them neatly into strips and screw them along the perimeter of the walls. By the way, the drywall was already attached to the fixed foil (vapor barrier).

In the shower, the first row was laid from floor tiles. I had to cut it a little so that the top row of tiles on the wall consisted of whole tiles.

He applied glue with a spatula to the wall, applied and tapped the tile with a mallet. I inserted crosses between adjacent tiles so that the seams were the same. The plane and horizontality were checked with a long water level. The second and subsequent rows were already laid from tiles of a different color.

In some tiles it was necessary for further installation of pipes and electrical appliances. I made markings with a pencil, checked the accuracy of the position of the hole with a ruler and square, after which the drill went into action. First, I drilled a hole with a spear-shaped drill. To prevent the tile from cracking, I glued a piece of masking tape on top. After the central hole was ready, I changed the nozzle to a circular one. I immediately purchased a tungsten carbide crown for this purpose. Quite expensive, but it was enough for the entire finishing process.

Excess glue was immediately removed with a rag during the masonry process until the composition dried up. The seams under the grout turned out to be even and neat.

A day after finishing the walls with tiles, he took up the seams. To begin with, I pulled out all the crosses. The grout took two colors - white and dark brown. For the bath, I picked up a two-component epoxy composition. It's not the cheapest, but it's perfect for wet areas. I mixed the grout components in one bucket, I did not add water.

Before applying the epoxy grout, I lightly wetted the wall with a spray bottle. He collected the mass on a spatula, after which he distributed it along the seams, making movements from left to right perpendicular to the seam. The spatula was held at an angle of approximately 30 degrees. I leveled the grout 30 minutes after its application, using a rubber spatula. Well, in the end, when the seams dried up, I washed the walls with soap and water.

Lining - installation

The walls in the GVL steam room were not sheathed. They pulled the foil vapor barrier, fixed it with a stapler and tape. By the way, I also glued the joint of the ventilation pipe with foil well with tape. On top of the foil, I carefully stuffed the slats - the crate.

I want to draw readers' attention to the horizontal position of the wooden planks. I deliberately arranged them so as to avoid capillary rise of moisture along the wooden wall and to achieve good air circulation, which is necessary for drying the material after bath procedures. It would be very unpleasant if, from constant dampness, the lining led or it rotted after a couple of years. Still, we build a bath from the heart and for a long time. I also want to say that horizontal fastening allows you to repair or change individual planks, and if the lining is located vertically on the walls, you will have to disassemble half of the wall.

At first I just wanted to nail the boards, but then the choice again fell on the kleimers. They are not visible under the lining, and the nails can rust from high humidity, black smudges will remain on the walls.

I treated all the planks with Neomid impregnation so that the wood would not rot. And for fastening the first and last planks, I purchased copper-plated finishing studs.

Installation started from the ceiling. Stepped back 3 cm, attached a bar, nailed a nail to the center. I drove one more nail on both sides of the board, after which I checked the horizontal level with a level. I assembled the lining so that the spike was on top and the groove was on the bottom. This is important, because if you sheathe the wall differently, moisture will accumulate in the grooves, the wood will swell and lead it.

From below, I inserted clamps into the groove of the first board, each of them was nailed with three nails to the crate. I inserted the second forcing panel with a spike into the groove. Lightly tapped with a hammer from the bottom up so that there were no gaps, after which I inserted the kleimers and nailed them. So collected to the floor. I cut the last bottom plank lengthwise so that there was a gap of 2 cm between the floor and the wood. I inserted the board into the spike of the penultimate board, nailed it. Along the way, I drilled holes for wiring and often checked the levelness. I covered all the nails of the first and last panels with a wooden plinth, and installed vertical strips in the corners for beauty.

Shelves in the steam room

I talked about how to make the ceiling, floor and walls, the stove is ready, it remains to make the shelves in the bath. For work, I took lime boards and pine blocks. I drew a diagram, prepared a screwdriver, long self-tapping screws, metal mounting angles, a hammer and nails.

First, I marked the bars, cut them with a grinder. The ends of the horizontal bars, which will be connected to the front vertical struts, I cut off according to the tenon-groove principle. That is, he made a “thorn” on the horizontal bars, and a “groove” on the vertical racks.

First I screwed the support posts to the wall. I want to note that these supports should not be in contact with the floor, it is necessary to leave a gap of up to two centimeters. I attached the crossbars to the support posts. I just took the mounting bracket and nailed it under the horizontal bars at the junction with the support posts. Thus, I nailed the bars on which the boards and bars will lie for stability.

Similarly, I assembled a frame for the lower bench and a small table for brooms, after which I laid the boards on the frame and fixed them with self-tapping screws. For convenience, I cut off the protruding sharp edges, carefully sanded the boards and the frame so as not to plant a splinter.

Interior doors

By its principle, it is similar to the installation of the front door. There is a glass door in the steam room, a wooden one in the dressing room. The box in both cases is made of wood, ordered based on the size of the opening.

The box consists of several elements. The joints are sawn at an angle of 90 degrees. First, I fixed the side strips and the top one using nails. Then I inserted plastic wedges and several spacers between the elements of the box, blew out the mounting foam. When it dried up a little, I carefully nailed the side strips of the door frame with carnations, which closed the gap and a layer of foam.

I did not photograph the process itself, so I am attaching a diagram for clarity.

The hinges were included, I attached them to the box and the canvas with self-tapping screws. At this stage of work, it is important to check all distances with a tape measure so that the door hangs evenly. Then it remains only to hang the door on the hinges and install the door handle.

Plumbing

The photo shows that we have a bucket for pouring on the wall, there is a urinal, a shower and a faucet with a spout. The sewerage and hot/cold water pipes were installed at the stage of laying the foundation and building the walls. Now we will talk directly about the installation of plumbing.

Shower room, urinal

Let's start with the urinal. My son and I chose a compact wall-mounted model with a faucet instead of a cistern, brought it in, unpacked it, put it against the wall to make markings. The urinal has mounting holes, it was their location, as well as the contour, that we marked on the wall with a marker after we checked whether the product was evenly attached to the wall.

According to the markup, holes for dowels were drilled.

The siphon in the urinal is solid, we tried it on for the outlet of the sewer pipe, after which we connected the pipe and the siphon with a special pipe. The end of the pipe, which was inserted into the sewer pipe, was wrapped with linen thread and smeared with red lead.

The urinal faucet is very easy to install. The part is joined to the urinal through a rubber gasket. The height of the crane is adjusted by rotating the parts. The connection to the water supply pipe is made with a nut. After connecting the urinal to the water supply and sewage, I missed the joint between the faience and the wall with plumbing sealant and checked the performance of the entire system.

A little about the pouring bucket. This is a wonderful device that rotates when you pull the chain, and the float mechanism inside the bucket does not allow it to overflow. The frame of the bucket is fixed with dowels, and the water is supplied through a flexible hose.

They are installed according to the same principle. The package already has everything you need, you only need an adjustable wrench and a Unipack or Moment plumbing tape. I took the eccentrics out of the box, screwed them into the hot / cold water pipes, after which I took the level and adjusted them horizontally, while bringing the distance between them to 150 mm (slightly turning each eccentric in turn).

The next step was the installation of the product itself. A thread was wound on the eccentrics, rubber gaskets were put on, then I put the mixer on and screwed the union nuts on the eccentrics.

Sharing another video that I watched before installing the faucets.

basement siding

To make the bath look more pleasant and interesting, I decided to cover the foundation posts with basement siding panels. To fix it, metal strips are required to create the crate. Even a drywall profile will do. I want to note that at first I filled in the blind area and made a boardwalk from the side of the facade, and only then I fixed the crate and panels. Otherwise, it would be difficult to calculate the height of the panels.

To fasten the crate (the lower starting profile at a distance of 5 cm from the blind area and flooring), I used self-tapping screws and corners (I just cut pieces of the drywall profile to make corners). With a screwdriver, the entire structure is assembled in a matter of hours, the main thing is to accurately measure the length of the vertical stiffeners and fix the horizontal profiles according to the level (for convenience, I used a level and pulled a guide cord).

I fastened the panels with self-tapping screws, screwing them in about every half meter. Masking elements are fixed in the corners in the same way. In the panels, I immediately made square cuts and installed ventilation grilles (fastened with self-tapping screws in the corners) - 2 grilles on each side of the bath.

blind area

I poured between the foundation of the bath and the fence. Immediately laid a drainage gutter with a grate. The order is as follows:

We have plank flooring in front of the front door. They just stuffed boards into three parallel bars, trimmed the edges with a hacksaw and laid them at the front door.

Larch flooring. Plinth - plastic panels "under the stone".

Finishing touches

In order for the bathhouse to take on a finished look, we equipped the porch with a canopy and a makeshift staircase. The height of the steps at the stairs is 18 cm, the parts were assembled on mounting brackets and self-tapping screws.

From the gate to the entrance I made, near the bath I managed to collect a compost box and a decent firewood rack. We brought furniture inside the bathhouse, hung shelves and curtains there, hung brooms. In the future, I plan to equip a front garden near the bathhouse and build an outdoor barbecue.

The frame structure is simpler and more intuitive than a log house. It does not require high professional skills and any special skills. The foundations under the bathhouse and the veranda were not rigidly connected. They are made end to end.

The construction of the frame begins in the same way as the log house (I wrote about the construction of the log house in), that is, with the installation of a lining plinth beam with a section of 150x50mm.

A strapping bar (100x100 mm) is installed on it, which carries the main load.

Laying the basement timber is the most critical stage of construction. The quality of the entire frame depends on how it will be made. In the corners, the plinth beam is joined in a half-tree way. Diagonals are checked with a tape measure. The difference in size should not exceed 1-2 cm. Horizontals are leveled.

Two load-bearing rack beams 100x100 mm were nailed along the edges to the bath 150 mm with a nail. I set the second pair of racks at opposite corners, checked with a level for deviation from the vertical and fastened it with a corner with a plinth beam on screws 50 mm long.

An important note: assembling the frame means hundreds of screws that will have to be screwed during the entire construction! So, it is necessary to have a cordless screwdriver on the farm, with a set of spare bits.

So, the base of the frame is ready. To strengthen it and increase rigidity, the upper and lower trim at regular intervals was additionally tied with jumpers (100x50mm). On this it was possible to finish the installation of the walls, but I decided that the strength "does not happen much." Therefore, I made braces at the corners of the racks.

Brace (brace) - a diagonal structural element designed to connect and transfer stresses that form in various ceilings and trusses.

I decided to make the window deaf. I ordered a large double-glazed window and made a reinforced hard opening for it. Under the lower plane of the double-glazed window for tightness laid a rubber band. Aligned the glass pane vertically. Its edges and top were filled with construction foam. After it dried, I cut off the excess with a knife. Along the edges of the window I put a decorative edging from a bar.

To prevent water from accumulating under the floor in the spring, he poured a dozen carts of sand there.

Sand poured on the ground does not perform the function of drainage. Therefore, this solution does not eliminate the need for a drainage ditch along the foundation. - approx. editions

On top of the sand, I laid out pieces of old roofing material for better waterproofing of the underground space and repelling rodents.

Further work went quickly. As soon as the window was inserted, we immediately take up the doorway. Climbed up to the attic for the board. Well, once climbed, then it is necessary to put the sex logs. It's not long! After all, the sand was covered, the roofing material was laid out. You won't walk on it!

We dropped everything, put the lags. On the veranda, they decided to lay only a rough floor with basalt wool insulation. I broke my whole head while I figured out how to lay the basalt. It turned out that everything ingenious is simple: I screwed a 150 mm board with screws to the lower plane of the genital lag (beam 200x50 mm). On the resulting ledges, he laid the trimmings of the boards, and spread basalt wool over them. Everything, you can lay the floorboard!

Unsheathed walls created the illusion of a large space. We started planning… We’ll set up a table here, there will be a wardrobe, we’ll make a shower here. There will be a mirror and a drawer for linen. They exhausted a lot of paper, drawing the interiors of an essentially scanty space of 2x3 meters. As a result, a table was placed at the far end wall, and a mirror and a drawer for linen were placed on the opposite wall. Here I screwed hooks for outerwear. A rope was stretched in the center of the bath for towels and clothes to dry.

In May, the weather is changeable and capricious. In the morning the sun and a clear sky, in the evening it will overtake the clouds and charge the rain, and we don’t even have rafters! Installation of rafters is a crucial stage of construction. I attached the upper end of the rafters of the veranda to the rafters of the bath, so that I got a common roof.

Screw fixing was originally planned. However, having estimated the load-bearing loads by eye, he refused to use a bunch of rafters with screws! He began to "reinvent the wheel", as everyone on the forum fastened the rafters with screws and even nails!

He said to himself: “You are always wiser! Pulled on the screws, where will they go? Then he thought: “Of course, in the more southern regions it is not critical, but we sometimes get up to half a meter of snow at a time. And how much will he pile up for the whole winter? The rafters collapse. Well, if not on the head.

In the end, I did it my way. The rafters were installed, temporarily grabbing with screws. Further, at the junction of the rafters, a hole is drilled for the M-10 threaded stud. Washers, grovers are put on the sides, nuts are screwed on and everything is twisted all the way with a wrench. In the lower edge of the rafter leg, which rests on the frame strapping, an angle cut was made for rigidity. Additionally, all rafters are fastened with a frame strapping with a metal corner for 50 mm screws. The entire truss system must be set in one plane. Simply put, the board laid on the rafters should lie on them evenly and without gaps.

So, the rafters are already standing. Now you need to sheathe them with an edged board and spread two layers of roofing material. Here is the finished roof. I will say in passing that roofing felt and a roof are not compatible concepts. Ruberoid is a temporary roof for two to three years until a permanent roof of slate, ceramic or metal tiles is installed.

I have learned this from my own bitter experience. In the second year, a strong wind tore off the top layer of roofing material. Involuntarily, I had to put a real roof. Doing this work yourself is dangerous (after all, four and a half meters high) and difficult, given the exit of the chimney and the passage of the electric cable. Therefore, I ordered a roof from a company. With a new roof, the bathhouse acquired the appearance of a solid structure.

It's time to sheathe the outside of the bath. To be honest, I didn't plan to do this. Additional cost of time and money. However, given the small thickness of the walls of the log house and the operation of the bath in the winter, I decided: let it be with sheathing!

Windproofing is attached to the frame under the outer skin. The construction market has a huge selection of all kinds of films, membranes. Despite this, I, as always, climbed into the forum. They approached the problem differently. Down with expensive delights, we will do it simply and cheaply. We put glassine (aka only) on the whole bath. 4 rolls bought for ridiculous money. Fastened it to the wall with a construction stapler. On top of the parchment, I vertically stuffed a 50 mm rail. It must be placed vertically so that there is air movement under the skin and dampness does not accumulate.

Fixing the cladding is a pleasure. The first board is leveled and nailed to the rails. Then just keep pushing. The lining is smooth, smooth, it is pleasant to take it in your hands! For two days, "from dawn to dusk," he pounded the skin. I was in a hurry not in vain, they were about to bring the front metal door.

Sometimes it happens that the wood paneling "leads" the frame. Therefore, if the door is installed before the skin, then it can warp. Fortunately, everything worked out for me as well as possible. Before the installation of the lining, two masters arrived, quickly installed the door in the opening, issued a guarantee for it and for the locks.

Having installed the lining outside, you can proceed to the insulation and interior decoration of the veranda. The simplest, inexpensive, high-quality and durable insulation is sheet foam plastic, the “official” name is polystyrene foam. It is easily cut with a knife and inserted into the spacer, the slots are foamed with mounting foam.

Building is not a fast business. Every day I stay until dark. We need to find an electrician and do electrification! Our country electrician promised to do it, but never came. I met a friend, let's call him Vova. Complains about life. “They don’t pay money at the factory, there are no covens, the prices are brutal, how to live?” I told him - "So you're an electrician, sort of?" He proudly says, “Yes! All permits are available for any work!

I suggest that he make an air cable connection to the bath. This is where the fun starts! "Yeah, I can't now." Okay, let's go tomorrow or Monday. “And since Monday I can’t, and in general I have things to do!”

Well, then why are you crying that there is no money? Here they are - real money. Works for three or four hours! Offended by me, he left without saying goodbye. Truly, whoever wants - is looking for ways, who does not want, he is looking for reasons! We still put the “Ilyich’s lamp” on. Familiar from work without showing off, did everything qualitatively and for a reasonable price and connected it!

The bath door is not an easy thing! As you make it, such a bath will be. You can't cheat here. I figured it this way and that. An astronomical amount was obtained on order (5 times more expensive than the input metal). To do it yourself, you have to be a highly skilled carpenter.

And yet he made the door himself. Lightweight, insulated with foam, lined with aspen clapboard. I did it for the first time, as they say, "on my knee." Nevertheless, it turned out well and beautifully. He screwed an imposing wooden handle to the door.

Now the sauna window can be inserted and there will be very little left: the floor and the stove! With a frame for the window, I didn’t do much. When I did the renovation, 2 window frames remained in the apartment. Remember, in the old Khrushchevs there were such in the bathroom and toilet? I put them together and nailed them together. I inserted 5 mm mirror glass between the frames, drilled 2 holes of 20 mm and inserted 2 metal bars from dashing people!

Next up is the floor. It must be warm and airtight. The rough floor was screwed onto 50 mm screws. 50 mm polystyrene was tightly inserted into the gaps between the timber. All cracks and joints are foamed with mounting foam. You can’t walk on the laid foam, so everything is done from the far corner to the exit.

Styrofoam in the steam room - the material is unacceptable! When heated strongly, it releases toxic substances. When it comes into contact with the floorboard, the wood starts to rot. The best option is floor insulation with ecowool, mineral wool or expanded clay gravel. - approx. editions

Excess mounting foam is cut off with a knife so that the floorboard lies flat. The board took the thickest 40 mm. It's better not to save here! You can save money by taking pine instead of aspen. The board is laid simply: the first one is pressed tightly against the wall with a groove and screwed with screws. The second groove is inserted into the crest of the first board and pressed tightly with a clamp or wooden wedges until there is no gap.

Then the board is screwed to the lags with screws. Between the foundation of the stove and the floor, a gap of 50 mm was obtained. Mounting foam to help us! Foamed from the heart. Paul is ready. Immediately checked it for blowing with a candle. I see the flame is even. So, there is no wind anywhere!

Now the most important work - we put the stove! The bath is a wooden building. The slightest neglect of fire safety rules leads to a fire!

Therefore, the first commandment of a novice attendant: the stove must be bought in a specialized center with a certificate, and not welded in a garage on your knee!

Second commandment. What a cool oven you would not buy, you still need to overlay it with a brick! In my case, the stove was bought not for a bathhouse, but for an ordinary collapsible cast-iron potbelly stove. During the test furnace, it was red-hot, but there was nowhere for me to retreat. Everything was done just for this stove!

Back in the 90s, he upgraded it for a bottle of Royale alcohol. The men welded a 40-liter water tank and a container for stones from 6 mm steel sheet. Then it was the height of perfection!

Collecting a stove is a pleasure. Anyway, this is the last stage of construction! Once again I checked the passage of the chimney between the ceiling beams and the roof rafters. Everything is done correctly, the only drawback: the pipe goes to the roof next to the rafters. Therefore, I insulated the rafters with a basalt sheet, and wrapped the pipe itself with an asbestos sheet. Asbestos is a terrible carcinogen, so a basalt sheet is wrapped over it. Work with asbestos only in a respirator!

We begin the installation of chimneys. The first pipe is the most responsible. It bears the weight of all the pipes and gets very hot along the entire length! So I didn't skimp on it. Bought from stainless steel. Wall thickness 1 mm (there are steel and thin 0.5 mm).

The pipe is put on the furnace pipe and fastened with a clamp. Another important note: all pipe joints must be coated with a heat-resistant sealant!

Next, a gate or simply a valve is put on the pipe. You can not put it, it's an amateur! Next is the most important: the place where the pipe passes through the ceiling. A hole is cut in the ceiling for the PPU (ceiling pass-through device). All places of PPU contact with wood are thermally insulated with asbestos.

We insert a sandwich pipe into the PPU and fasten it with the help of an adapter to the first pipe. PPU stands, the sandwich is taken to the attic. Now you need to make a complex cut in the roof. I figured it this way and that. An accurate hole is not obtained in an inclined surface. I drew it on paper. Only from the fourth option it turned out!

I drew a hole on the roof according to the template. With a thin drill, using a drill, I drilled its contours and cut it from the roof with a jigsaw. He brought the last sandwich pipe to the roof. To prevent water from flowing through the pipe into the bath, I put a “master flush” on it (a heat-resistant rubber sleeve). A flame arrester or simply an umbrella is attached to the top of the pipe. All! We can say that the bath is done.

I spent two more days laying a brick wall near the stove, building shelves and benches in the steam room. While I was doing imperfections, my girls made beauty in the bathhouse! They got an old samovar from the attic, forced me to make something like a village hill for dishes out of the remnants of the board!

Woven bast shoes were hung in the corner, carved boards and wooden spoons were hung on the walls!

And the long-awaited day has come! I heated the stove in the morning to +50, it's time to take a steam bath! It was only later that we found a comfortable temperature of +70 - +76 degrees. Above it already burns the lungs, it is impossible to bathe with a broom, it burns.

High temperature is needed in the sauna. The air is dry there. The Russian bath should be humid. Dry air is allowed here at the first stage to warm up the body. Then a large bucket of water is poured onto the stones. In my case, 1 liter of water is used for 100 kg of stones. We close the steam room for 10 minutes. Bath "ripens". Ten minutes later we go to bathe. We give water to the heater in small portions of 100-150 ml.

There was a big problem with the water tank. She boiled in it only an hour later, filling the whole bath with steam. I tried to put asbestos under the tank. Little use, still boils! I had to fill the tank with stones instead of water. More than 10 kg climbed (the stone keeps heat for a long time and dries the bath well). I bought stones for the bath at the construction market. This breed is called gabbro-diabase. Chose them for a nice color: black with blue tint.

There are lovers of bathing for 5-6 hours, making six or seven visits to the steam room. I personally need three or four passes. In winter I wipe myself with snow, in summer I pour water from a well, also cold, only +5. Pouring is very useful for blood vessels. Contrasting temperatures inhibit the development of viruses, fungi and pathogenic microflora. No wonder they said in the old days: a bath heals, a bath rules, a bath will fix everything!

A short note about the cost of the bath

My initial cost calculations: 5 cubes of timber at 6000 rubles. per cube, 4 bags of cement at a price of 500 rubles per bag. Total: 32,000 rubles.

Naive dreams! I won’t tell you the exact cost, because I left the calculations in complete frustration when we bought the lining. And yet, the total amount can be estimated.

So, lining, floorboard, inch edged board, platbands, decorative board, timber. Total: 100,000 rubles.

Ruberoid, glassine, 2 bags of cement, foil, nails, screws, plus electricity. Total: 25-30,000 rubles.

Chimneys, brick, polyurethane foam, acrylic paint. Total 30,000 rubles. Installation on the roof of a metal tile another 2,000 rubles. Total: 32,000 rubles.

THE OVERALL RESULT: 32+100+30+32 = 194,000 rubles Surely I did not take into account everything, so you can safely throw another 30-40 thousand rubles on top.

Consider also the fact that almost everything was done by hand. Mercenaries take from 50 to 100% of the cost of materials for work!

For reference: the size of my bath in terms of 2x3 meters. Completely assembled together with a winter veranda 4x3 meters.

There are many arguments in favor of building a bath yourself, and the most important is cost savings. The average cost of a finished project when contacting specialized firms is 90,000–100,000 rubles, while do-it-yourself work is 3–4 times cheaper. Particular attention is paid to the base of the bath, as it is designed for long-term operation. Even when ordering a variant from a wooden log house, it is more expedient to make the foundation yourself, rather than contacting specialists. The recommended size is 3x4 m, which is enough to accommodate the steam room, washing and relaxation areas, with the optimal consumption of building materials and the occupied usable area of ​​​​the site.

Tape, pile, screw, columnar or slab varieties are suitable for this building. When determining which one is better to lay, take into account: soil parameters, expected loads and wall materials. Each option has its own advantages:

1. Tape - the main one, often used in individual construction. A 3x4 m bath is considered simple and light, block masonry or pouring a monolith of concrete is equally acceptable.

2. Columnar is laid on dense soils, provided that the weight of the walls is insignificant. The pillars are poured from concrete, or laid out from bricks or blocks in the corners of the bath and at the junction of the walls. This is a cost-effective technology, but it is not recommended for use in areas with loose soils and with significant volumes of runoff and drains.

3. The slab base is valued for compatibility with any type of soil and endurance of weight loads. But for a small bath within 3x4 m, there is no need to place a solid monolith under it, an exception is made only for two-story buildings (for which, too, given the small area, it is enough to fill in the tape base).

5. The pile-grillage base implies additional strapping with a channel or bar. In this case, when laying, piles should be screwed into the ground to a certain depth and poured with concrete.

The first two varieties are used most often; the tape is considered the optimal foundation for a small bath 3x4 m in size. In addition to versatility, it is valued for its simplicity: with the right organization of the workflow, it can be poured in 1 day.

Step-by-step instructions for erecting a strip base

First of all, they are determined with the material of the walls and the location of the building. The communication scheme and the organization of the drain are thought out in advance, as well as openings for windows and doors, drafts are unacceptable. It is recommended to make a foundation near the house and the pool (if the latter is available), the septic tank or cesspool are placed at a distance of 2–5 m. The work itself is carried out according to the following scheme:

• Trench digging.
• Formwork placement.
• Preparation of the reinforcing frame, laying the drain and other communications.
• Pouring concrete.
• Formwork removal, waterproofing and insulation of the foundation with a blind area, backfilling.

1. Marking and laying the foundation.

The first three stages are preparatory: the site is cleared of plants, dirt and debris. The territory is marked along the perimeter of the future bath with the help of pegs and a rope, space is freed up to accommodate the excavated soil, taking into account the approximate depth of the trench of 2.5 m. A pillow of sand (15 cm) and crushed stone (10 cm) is filled and compacted at the bottom. The depth of a shallow strip foundation for a bath (assembled from blocks) can be smaller, but the backfilling of drainage should not be skipped in any case. Formwork 3x4 m in size can be made from ordinary boards, knocking them down along the perimeter of the building.

2. Reinforcement and laying of communications.

Metal rods are used, 10-14 mm thick, best corrugated. The formwork is protected from the flow of a liquid solution; glassine is well suited for this purpose. To calculate the number of tiers of reinforcement, it is recommended to measure the top level of the fill; bricks or blocks are placed at the bottom to prevent metal from touching the ground. Reinforcement knitting starts from the corners, the frame is connected with wire. The fewer joints, the better, the optimal cell size is 20 × 30 cm, as if inside the foundation (that is, the bars should not go outside, otherwise they will be susceptible to corrosion).

The frame for a small bath is most convenient to assemble from the outside. For knitting corners, proven schemes are used: with anchoring with L-shaped elements, U- and L-shaped clamps, with an overlap of transverse reinforcement. At this stage, all kinds of communications are laid, according to a pre-prepared drawing. For fast tying, a special crochet hook is well suited. It is allowed to pour the foundation with concrete only after collecting the entire reinforcing frame.

3. Concreting.

A solution is prepared from standard components: cement, sand, crushed stone and water. When building a foundation for a bathhouse with your own hands, the quality of the mixture is of great importance; it is better to use a concrete mixer. The ingredients are purchased from trusted manufacturers: cement from M400, river sand and crushed stone of hard rocks, with a fraction size in the range of 20–30 mm. The recommended proportions are 1:3:3 or 1:2:4, it is desirable to carry out a preliminary calculation of the mixture consumption, taking into account the depth of the foundation, with dimensions of 3x4 m. The finished mortar remains in the formwork until it hardens, the concrete is leveled from above with a trowel.

Protection against moisture and heat loss

Before filling the soil, the foundation is waterproofed and insulated. This stage is very important, it is impossible to save on the quality of building materials. In the role of coating waterproofing, bituminous mastics have proven themselves well, for insulation - polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene.

It is allowed to use roll pasting materials. The main thing is to make sure that the insulation and mastic are compatible, the latter should have a water base (which is prescribed in the instructions). On strongly heaving areas, the blind area is insulated, along the perimeter of the bath. A small layer of sand is poured around the foundation, and only then - soil.

Expert advice

To achieve maximum effect, it is important to observe the following nuances of technology:

1. It is best to pour a strip foundation for the construction of a bath in one go.
2. The next stage is started after the complete completion of the previous one: tying the frame, hardening of the mortar (concrete is checked for moisture), drying of the waterproofing layer.
3. To compensate for temperature changes during freezing of the soil and prevent mechanical shifts, expansion joints are laid along the entire height of the foundation. For a bath, the recommended interval is 60 cm, in areas with moving soil - 15–30 cm. Seams, 10 cm wide, are subsequently filled with heat or waterproofing materials.
4. In areas with a high level of groundwater, drainage pipes are laid along the perimeter of the bath, at the depth of the foundation cushion.

Common Mistakes

Technology violations include:

• Absence or improper organization of water drainage in the bath.
• Skip the stage of hydro and thermal insulation.
• Use of low quality concrete.

There is a misconception that there is no need for sewerage for rarely visited baths without a toilet. That is, the building is located above the cesspool or at a close distance from it, the drains are brought to the gravel backfill. But at the same time, the risk of raising groundwater is ignored and in winter, in addition to freezing the soil and the inevitable deformation of the base, the floors in the room cool down. A properly organized foundation for a bath with a drain has a pipe leading to a septic tank or sewer, with a length of at least 2 m from the walls.

You can quickly and inexpensively build a bath in only one way - frame. If you follow the basic rules, then the building will be in no way inferior to brick and timber counterparts.

We design a bath - different options for the area

We start work on the bath with design. At this stage, it is necessary to determine the size and configuration of the future structure. If your requirements are minimal, you can build a 3x4 m bath. It has enough space for a steam room for several people with an area of ​​​​6 m 2. The remaining space can be taken under the rest room. If you donate a rest room, then there will be enough space for a locker room and a vestibule. And if you equip such a bath with an attic floor, then you won’t have to give up the rest room.

If the bath will be used as a place to spend time with friends, it is better to make it larger, for example, 6x4. In this case, you can equip it with a fairly spacious rest room with an area of ​​​​about 14 m 2, as well as a steam room for 5 m 2 and a small bathroom.

And if you make a 4x6 bath with an attic, then a steam room and a washing room, as well as a relaxation room and a terrace, can be placed on the ground floor. The entire attic floor, which is about 20 m 2, can be set aside for a rest room.

If the size of your site allows, and the budget is not very limited, make an attic bath 6x6 m in size so as not to deny yourself anything. It has space for all the necessary premises, as well as for a terrace and a spacious balcony.

Large steam rooms are much more difficult to heat to the required temperature and then maintain the temperature at the same level. Therefore, if there is no need for a large steam room, it is more expedient to allocate no more than 4-5 m 2 for it. This will save fuel and time to warm up the room.

In order not to puzzle over the layout, you can take as a basis the ready-made projects offered on our website. Adjust the layout as needed if necessary. When the plan is ready, be sure to draw up a drawing of the frame of the walls and roof.

The frame of the walls is quite simple - it is based on racks, which are located in increments of 600 mm, if measured from the centers, or 575 mm, if measured between the racks. Above and below the racks are connected by strapping - a horizontally located beam or board. In the corners of the rack are reinforced with braces. Above the doorways, as well as above and below the window openings, there are horizontal lintels. Floor beams are calculated and laid in the same way as in the construction of ordinary houses.

Having such a drawing in front of you, you will not make mistakes in the process of assembling the structure. In addition, it will allow you to calculate in advance the required amount of lumber.

Column foundation - building the foundation

Since the frame bath is light in weight, in most cases a columnar, shallow foundation is sufficient for it, provided that the soil is stable. On unstable soils, it is better to perform a pile-screw foundation. If you are planning a cellar or equipping other premises, then you will need a strip foundation. In other cases, it is better to refuse it, since the construction of such a foundation is very costly and time-consuming.

Regardless of what kind of foundation you are going to build, first prepare the site - first of all, you need to correctly outline it. Be sure to make sure that the diagonals of the site are the same length. Then get rid of the plant layer. So that plants do not germinate under the bath in the future, treat the soil with fungicides.

Now you can start building the foundation itself. If the base is columnar, you will need the following materials:

• sand;
• crushed stone;
• cement mortar;
• concrete foundation blocks (can be replaced with bricks);
• bituminous mastic;
• ruberoid;
• timber 150x150 mm.

After preparing the materials, mark the area for the posts, which should be located in increments of 1.5–2 m. Then dig holes to a depth of about 40 cm. Fill the bottom of the holes with gravel and sand 10 cm thick. Tamp each layer carefully. Align the surface of the embankment in a horizontal plane.

Lay two concrete blocks in the pits, then apply the mortar and lay two more blocks with dressing on top. In the process of laying blocks, make sure that the posts are installed strictly vertically. Then, treat the blocks with bituminous mastic on top and lay a couple of layers of roofing material.

After that, you need to perform a grillage, i.e. lay a beam along the perimeter of the foundation and fasten it together. In the process of laying, make sure that the corners of the grillage are 90 degrees. It is desirable to perform the corner connection of the grillage beam "in the paw" or at least "in half a tree". Then you need to lay the floor beams on the posts and cut them into the grillage.

The pile-screw foundation is even simpler - piles are screwed into the ground according to the principle of a conventional drill. The level of their penetration should be at least two meters. In the process of deepening, it is necessary to ensure that the piles are located vertically.

Then the top of the piles is cut so that the edges are at the same horizontal level. After that, a grillage is welded to the piles, which is usually made of I-beams. The same beams are used for overlapping.

On metal beams, you need to fix a beam of 150x150 mm with bolts. It will serve as a strapping for the frame racks.

Assembling the frame - materials and installation

For the construction of the wall frame, you will need the following lumber:

• timber 150x150 mm;
• timber 100x150 mm;
• board 150x40 mm;
• steel corners;
• wooden dowels.

Be sure to treat all lumber with antiseptic impregnations. They will protect the tree from negative biological influences, as well as make it more resistant to moisture.

Work begins with the installation of racks at the corners of the building, which are made of timber 150x150 mm. At the end of each post, drill a hole for the dowel with a depth of 80-100 mm. Make the same holes in the grillage at the corners of the building. Then hammer the dowels themselves into the grillage and put the racks on them. Additionally, strengthen the racks with steel corners and self-tapping screws.

Then the racks must be strengthened with braces, as shown in the diagram above. For the manufacture of braces, use boards 150x40 mm. Cut the ends of the braces at an angle with which they will adjoin the harness and uprights. To fix the boards, use self-tapping screws and corners.

Next, install intermediate wall racks with a pitch of 600 mm, made from a board 150x40 mm. To fasten the racks, use steel corners, which should be located on both sides of the brace. In addition, connect the intermediate posts to each other, as well as to the corner posts, using jumpers made from the same boards. Arrange jumpers in a checkerboard pattern, i.e. at different levels.

From above, tie all the racks with a strapping, which is made of a beam of 100x150 mm, it will also serve as a Mauerlat for the roof. Then install horizontal strips above and below the openings. Use the same board for the planks as for the uprights.

Then, according to the same principle, install the racks of interior partitions - connect them with strapping from above and below, and also strengthen them with braces and jumpers. This completes the construction of the frame.

Now you need to lay the floor beams, which can be used as a timber 100x150 mm. Place them with an edge on the strapping and secure with corners. The step of the beams must match the step of the rafters - this is usually 900–1000 mm.

We mount the mansard roof

As an example, let's consider it as a roof, since it allows you to get an almost full-fledged second floor with a minimal increase in financial costs. If you are interested in or, check out other articles on our portal.

For the attic roof you will need the following materials:

• timber 100x150 mm for racks;
• boards 150x50 mm for rafters;
• boards 150x20 mm;
• slats;
• super diffuse membrane;
• roofing material.

Work begins with the installation of the supporting structure. For each roof truss, two racks are installed, which are connected from above by beams. Those. under each roof truss there is a U-shaped supporting structure.

When installing the support structure, it is necessary to correctly determine the position of the racks. Since the rack with the lower rafter and the Mauerlat (floor beam) forms a rectangle, the distance from the wall to the rack depends on the height of the attic and the angle of inclination of the lower rafter. Knowing the angle of the rafter and the height of the rack (determines the height of the attic room), you can calculate at what distance from the edge the rack is installed using the Pythagorean theorem, i.e. you need to know the length of the smaller leg.

Fix the racks on the strapping and floor beams with self-tapping screws and corners. Also, reinforce them with braces. Then connect both racks with beams. According to this principle, install U-shaped parts on all floor beams. Connect all the resulting load-bearing elements along the edges with runs, as shown in the diagram above.

Now you can install the lower rafters. From below, they are slaughtered and attached to the strapping, and from above - to the run, in which the grooves are pre-cut. Next, you need to fix the racks in the center of the jumpers of the U-shaped parts. The height of the racks determines the angle of inclination of the upper rafters. Tie all racks with a ridge run.

At the end of work on the attic frame, install the upper rafters, which rest on the lower and ridge runs. Pre-cut grooves for the rafters in the runs. Immediately waterproof the roof - fix the super-diffuse membrane to the rafters with a stapler. Stick a special self-adhesive tape over the brackets, which will ensure the tightness of the connection. Please note that the membrane webs should overlap each other by 20–25 centimeters.

The superdiffuse membrane is able to pass moisture in one direction. Therefore, it should be located on the roof with the smooth side outward, and the rough side inward. If you fix it incorrectly, moisture can penetrate deep into the insulation, as a result of which it will lose its thermal insulation properties.

On top of the rafters, be sure to fasten the slats that will serve as a counter-lattice. Then fix the boards 150x20 mm perpendicular to the rails. As for the step of the crate, then follow the recommendations of the manufacturer of the roofing material that you purchased for the bath.

Roofing is mounted on top of the crate according to the standard scheme - sheets of material must necessarily overlap each other up and down. Screws or nails are located on the crest of the wave.

We insulate the walls, roof and floor of the bath

To insulate walls you will need:

• basalt wool with a thickness of 150 mm and a density of 25-35 kg / m 3;
• vapor barrier film;
• moisture-windproof membrane (super diffuse);
• wooden slats.

For steam insulation, it is more expedient to use a foil vapor barrier material. It will not only protect the structure from moisture, but will also reflect heat into the room.

Warming will start with the vapor barrier of the walls from the inside. To do this, stick self-adhesive double-sided sealing tape on the racks. Then glue the waterproofing film to the tape. Be sure to place the canvases with an overlap of at least 15 centimeters. Glue the joints with double-sided sealing tape. Additionally fix the foam with a stapler. As a result, an absolutely sealed circuit should be obtained, otherwise moisture will penetrate inside the walls and the frame will quickly become unusable.

Then lay mineral wool slabs in the space of the frame. Make sure that the insulation fits snugly to the structural elements and to each other. Carefully fill all the formed cracks with scraps of cotton wool.

Next, you need to fix the moisture-windproof membrane on the outside of the walls. It is mounted according to the same principle as a vapor barrier - a sealant is glued to the racks, then the membrane itself is attached with a stapler. On top of the film on the racks, it is imperative to fix the rails with a thickness of at least 20 mm. Stuff the same slats on the racks on the inside of the walls, they will serve as a crate for the lining.

The roof is insulated using the same technology - mineral wool is laid between the rafters, then it is closed from the inside with a vapor barrier. A crate for lining or other finishing materials is mounted on top of the vapor barrier.

The floor is insulated a little differently - first of all, you need to make a rough flooring between the floor beams from the boards. Then a waterproofing film is laid on the beams and flooring (you can use a conventional vapor barrier). Logs are laid on top of the film as when installing a conventional floor.

A heater is placed in the space between the lags. You can use any material, both slab and loose, such as ecowool or expanded clay. Another layer of film is laid on top of the lag and then the flooring is made of boards.

To insulate the ceiling, fix the vapor barrier from the side of the first floor, and then make a draft ceiling from the boards. Then, from the side of the second floor, you need to fill the space between the beams with insulation. A vapor barrier and plank flooring are laid on top of the beams.

We sheathe the walls - the final stage

For wall cladding on the outside, it is best to use OSB-4 with a thickness of 12-15 mm. The sheets must be cut so that the edges lie on the rack. There should be no hanging edges. At the locations of window and door openings, it is necessary to make cutouts using a jigsaw or a hacksaw.

To fasten the sheets, use phosphated self-tapping screws 60-70 mm long. The distance from the edge of the sheet to the screw should be 10 mm. The step of fasteners along the edges should not exceed 150 mm. In the center of the sheets, the pitch of the screws can be increased up to 300 mm.

Between the edges of the sheets, be sure to provide a distance of about 5 mm, i.e. the so-called expansion joint. If it is not done, the sheathing sheets may be deformed as a result of thermal expansion. All seams must be filled with mounting foam.

Similarly, sheathe the gables of the building. Then the walls can be finished with any "dry" facade finishing materials, such as lining, siding, thermal panels, etc. From the inside, sheathe the walls with clapboard. If you do not know how, dedicated to the topic.

That's all the main points. Even if you are a beginner, you can build a box of a small bath in one to two weeks.

Frame construction is gaining more and more popularity among fans of bath procedures and owners of personal plots. The construction of a frame bath is an excellent option for those who are not able to give a lot of money, but want to find a building on the site that, in terms of basic parameters, will not be inferior to similar more expensive projects. In addition, frame baths have a rather pleasant appearance, which can be made very original and aesthetic with the help of external decoration. Let us consider in detail the features of all stages of the construction of a frame bath, the subtleties of the selection of materials for construction and current design trends.

Advantages and disadvantages

The construction of a bath on the basis of a frame guarantees the speed of construction, because the principle of construction is quite simple. Frame technology has a number of other advantages.

• The building will be very cost effective. This is possible due to the availability and low cost of materials.
• No need for a strong foundation. A light version will suffice.
• The room heats up quickly. This is possible due to the low thermal conductivity.
• All communications can be carried out inside the walls. This preserves the aesthetic appearance of the building.

Construction can be carried out at any air temperature and weather. Climatic conditions will not affect the process in any way.

In the absence of serious errors in construction, such a structure will have a long service life. The main thing is to follow the instructions.

• The very method of construction already suggests that such a building is easy to repair. It is possible to replace one of the modules and this will not adversely affect the other module or the entire building as a whole. If desired, the bath can be made mobile (transportable), but few resort to this method.

All these undoubted advantages contribute to the growing popularity of frame baths. True, they also have a rather tangible drawback: during precipitation, moisture can penetrate into the bars.

Careful observance of some rules will help to avoid this.

• The use of thermal insulation during construction is necessary. It allows you to retain heat for a longer time, promotes tightness and does not allow moisture to penetrate. Mineral wool or fiberglass is well suited as a heat-insulating material.
• Vapor barrier equipment will help to avoid condensation and extend the life of the wood.
• A simple type of foundation (piled, columnar) is ideal for arranging on dense soils.

Having familiarized yourself with the main features of the frame structure, you can begin to design a future bath.

Projects

Options 2 x 4, 3 x 4, 4 x 4 m

Starting the construction of such a small-sized bath, you need to be able to use all the internal space as efficiently as possible. Such mini-baths are often built in areas where it is necessary to save space or as an extension to the house. At the same time, no more than two people can bathe in such a small bath.

In the finished project of the future bath, the number of rooms should be detailed(steam room, shower room, dressing room, swimming pool, etc.). Typical 3 x 4 bath projects include separate rooms for a steam room, a relaxation area and a shower room. For heating, a boiler or wood-burning stove is often used.

Such small buildings have their advantages.

• Opportunity to save on building materials. A standard timber has a length of 6 meters, which means that it can simply be cut in half (if the wall is 3 meters long), leaving virtually no waste. Or into 3 parts with a wall length of 2 meters.
• Such baths are built quite quickly. With a finished project and drawing, you can complete the work in 2 weeks.
• Saving on the amount of material will allow you to focus on its quality. Good wood with high-quality impregnation will last for many years.

When planning the construction of a bath, it is worth remembering that any new building on the site must be registered in the cadastral register.

Projects of a 6x6 frame bath with an attic

If the size of the site allows you to build a luxurious spacious bath, why not do it? Especially for those who not only love to take a steam bath, but also invite friends.

Projects of baths with an attic are often designed so that a staircase leads from the rest room to the attic floor. The advantage of a two-story building is that the second floor gives a lot of additional space, while the costs do not increase much, because the bulk of the costs go to building the foundation.

Design

The last stage of the construction of a country bath is the interior and exterior decoration.

It is clear that it is done to the taste of the owner, but even here there are some universal rules that are best followed.

• The interior lining of the bath must not be painted. When heated, the paint emits an unpleasant odor and harmful substances.
• It is better to proceed to the inner lining six months to a year after the completion of construction. During this time, the building will naturally shrink.

The main methods of exterior decoration are plaster, sheathing with siding or clapboard made of coniferous trees, block house, tiles. Thermal panels and facing bricks are less commonly used.

Absolutely all materials that are used for interior decoration of the bath must have a number of characteristics:

• resistance to moisture, hot air and direct contact with water;
• in no case should the material release toxins under the influence of high temperatures;
• strength and long service life;
• environmental friendliness.

Naturally, the most common material that combines all of the above characteristics is wood. It easily absorbs moisture and dries quickly, is absolutely safe for humans and has its own unique smell (which everyone has long associated with bath procedures).

Next, you should decide on the type of lining, of which there are many. After all, if you choose a low-quality lining, it can take on water and swell. Or vice versa, decrease in size, forming gaps (this is possible when buying raw lining).

Finishing the steam room

Traditionally, deciduous trees are used for the interior lining of the steam room. They do not emit resin when heated, do not heat up and dry very quickly. Therefore, the appearance of the fungus is almost excluded. Often saunas and steam rooms are finished with ash, which is known for its durability. In addition, this tree has a very beautiful internal pattern, which will give the room an aesthetic look.

Alder is also quite popular for interior cladding. And it is no coincidence: the tree does not absorb odors and has a natural unusual color (brown-pink). Foreign manufacturers of saunas very often decorate them with alder.

Washroom finish

Experienced builders advise to sheathe the washing with spruce clapboard. It has a beautiful bright orange color and is resistant to moisture. But there are no strict rules here, so you can choose from a variety of options: tile, moisture-resistant fiberboard, drywall.

Rest room decoration

This is perhaps the only room in the bath, for which design comes first, and then practicality and functionality.

The only requirement for the design of the rest room is the resistance of furniture and decor elements to high temperatures and high humidity.

Traditionally, the decoration is made from environmentally friendly materials (it will not be very pleasant to come from the steam room to a room decorated with solid synthetics).

The most logical would be decoration in ethnic style. It includes wooden furniture, lace curtains, a samovar and other attributes of ancient Russian culture.

Less often, a rest room is decorated in minimalism or in a Scandinavian style.

For those who love to decorate their own rooms, but do not know what to choose for a bath, there is an excellent solution - a homemade stained glass window. With the invention of colored adhesive film, stained glass has ceased to be the art of the elite, and further we will describe in detail the process of its creation.

The technology is ridiculously simple - a colored film is cut into pieces (it can be certain characters, geometric shapes or abstraction) and glued to the window. Thus, a beautiful imitation of colored glass can be obtained. Lead tape can be glued to the joints between the glued figures. Such a stained-glass window has a huge variety of variations, does not require large manufacturing costs, increases the strength of glass and serves as an original design element.

Sledket to get acquainted with the step-by-step scheme for creating the original stained-glass window. Thinking over the design for different rooms in the bath, you should pay attention to the proper organization of lighting. The light should not be too bright, because initially people come to the bathhouse for relaxation and rest. But soft and diffused light will perfectly cope with the function of calming and relaxing visitors. Therefore, devices for lighting with high power should be abandoned.

Often, lighting is arranged using small bulbs spaced evenly throughout the room or along the perimeter of the ceiling. LED bulbs are perfect - they give high-quality warm lighting, exerting a minimum load on the electrical network.

materials

The calculation of materials must be made at the planning stage of the bath. Having decided on the dimensions, type of foundation, material for insulation and type of ventilation, you can proceed to the calculations.

For the construction of a bath on a frame-panel basis, not a very large amount of building materials is required. Consider the variations of the materials used for the construction of each element of the structure.

The material for the frame can be a wooden beam or a metal profile. Most often, summer residents prefer timber: it weighs little and is easy to assemble. The optimal section is considered to be 5 by 10 for supports and 10 by 10 for racks at the corners. Boards for ceiling sheathing are taken 34 cm thick and 13-15 cm wide.

It is worth choosing the material for the frame sheathing at the design stage. Because when assembling the frame between the racks, they leave just enough space to fit one plate. This helps to avoid unnecessary gaps. Many people opt for oriented strand board. Working with it does not require special skills and construction equipment. While cement-bonded particle board can only be cut with a grinder.

Mineral wool, polystyrene foam or fiberglass are suitable for insulation. The thickness of the insulation material should be the same as the thickness of the timber from which the frame is made.

To properly organize steam and waterproofing, it is undesirable to use roofing material. The fact is that when heated, it begins to emit a not very pleasant smell.

It is better to use it only for external waterproofing and when laying the foundation. And the foil film will perfectly cope with the task of vapor barrier.

The interior decoration is most often made of wooden lining, but it can be decorated with completely different materials, it all depends on the owner's imagination.

You will also need metal sheets and bricks to equip the space around the stove as safely as possible.

The bulk of the budget often goes to materials for the foundation. Here the list depends on the specific type of foundation (for example, screw piles will not be needed for the construction of a conventional strip foundation). But concrete is used for almost any foundation. Therefore, it is worth understanding what it consists of and how to choose it correctly.

Cement

This material consists of clay, lime and special additives. Initially it has the form of sand, after dilution with water it acquires the consistency of a dough, after which it solidifies and becomes hard as a stone. The poured concrete begins to harden after 50 minutes, and it will take several days to dry completely. Dry concrete can lose its strength if not properly stored or transported. The material has strength classes that you should pay attention to when buying.

Sand

Sand is used when mixing concrete solutions as a filler. It can be river or career. River has a high quality, because it has few different impurities. The quarry often contains a lot of dust and clay. Before adding to the cement mortar, sand must be sieved and washed.

Gravel

Gravel is a name given to small stones of natural origin and is also used as aggregate when mixing concrete. Gravel is divided into river, sea and mountain.

rubble

These are also small stones, but they are obtained by grinding larger ones. Can be small, medium and large. When choosing crushed stone, you need to pay attention to all its characteristics: strength, frost resistance and the level of radioactivity. Crushed stone used in the preparation of concrete should not contain clay or any inorganic impurities.

Water is a very important component of concrete mortar. Drinking water is great for hand-made concrete or for compacting foundation layers. Technical or natural water is also suitable, if it is clean enough. The most important requirement for water is the absence of fat, oil, sugar and other artificial additives.

Deciduous woods are the best fit for making the frame of the future bath. They are good for their low susceptibility to deformation and high degree of thermal insulation.

Of course, many opt for a cheaper material (for example, pine timber), but it will only fit for assembling the frame. It is undesirable to use it for decoration, because when heated, resin is released, which can be burned.

Naturally, for the construction you will need a large number of fasteners. Their variety and quantity is determined by the design of the future bath. It is better to take nails, screws, self-tapping screws with a large margin, because it is very difficult to calculate how many of them will be needed during construction.

How to insulate?

The most common material is a roll insulation about 4-5 cm thick. Rarely use mats or mineral wool. The insulation must be placed between the racks, and then the slats should be nailed to them. Polyethylene is good for thermal insulation. It is not advisable to use roofing felt, because it emits an unpleasant odor when heated.

Not very common, but quite high-quality and environmentally friendly material for insulation - reed plates. Their thickness is usually 15 centimeters, which is great for frame construction. There is nothing in the technology of its mounting that distinguishes it from the laying of other heaters. There is one important nuance that should be taken into account when using reed slabs for warming the bath. This is flammability. Therefore, it is worth paying special attention to the antiprene treatment before starting work.

A mixture of gypsum and sawdust is also used as insulation by some builders. It is very easy to prepare such a mixture yourself by mixing dried sawdust with cement or gypsum in a ratio of 10 to 1. This insulation is perhaps the cheapest of the existing ones.

Polymeric materials can also be used for insulation. The advantages are obvious: low cost, easy and fast installation, low weight and good thermal insulation of the material. What is most important - complete immunity to moisture. But there are also disadvantages: polymer materials burn quickly, are not intended for use in rooms with high temperatures, and can exude unpleasant odors over time.

Quite popular at one time was basalt insulation. This is a kind of cotton wool made from mineral fibers and glue.

It would seem that here it is - an ideal heater. But not everything is so simple. The main disadvantage of basalt wool was discovered only by 2014. Until that time, it was considered one of the most environmentally friendly materials. But it turned out that the adhesive composition that glues the fibers emits formaldehyde vapors. Naturally, the popularity of this heater has declined sharply.

Expanded clay or other backfills will cope with the floor insulation of the coating, foam can be used for the ceiling.

You should take a very responsible approach to the stage of warming the bath. After all, with quality work done at this stage, the heat will leave much more slowly, which means that there will be less costs for heating the bath.

Foundation

Frame buildings do not need a powerful foundation; due to the small mass of the frame itself, you can get by with the simplest. The most popular option is a columnar foundation. Asbestos-cement pipes filled with concrete will serve as supports here.

Step-by-step instructions for equipping a columnar foundation.

• First you need to select and purchase asbestos-cement pipes. The optimal diameter of such pipes is 10 cm, and the length is 3-4 meters. Their number depends on the area of ​​the future bath. The number of supports may vary, but they must be installed at all corners of the building.

• The second stage will be digging holes with a diameter of about 20 cm and about 1.5 meters deep. It will be easier if you have a gas drill, but you can also dig holes by hand, it will just take much more time.
• Next, you need to cut the pipes in half and place them in the resulting wells. The place around the pipes is covered with sand and compacted very carefully.
• Then you need to mix the concrete solution. This can be done according to the standard proportion scheme - 1 unit of cement itself, 2 units of sand, 4 units of crushed stone and water.
• At the last stage, the pipes are filled with concrete. After the foundation has completely dried, you can begin to build the rest of the bath.

wooden foundation

For small buildings measuring 3 x 4, 3 x 5, 4 x 5 or 3 x 6 meters, you can equip a simple wooden foundation. This is a good option for mobile clay soils. Do not forget that the roof and walls of small buildings should be light. Otherwise, you will need to think about a solid foundation.

Pile screw foundation

For a large frame structure, this option is best suited.

The construction technology is simple:

• marking is made for the location of piles;
• holes are drilled in the ground for piles, while the depth is determined according to the type of soil and the level of groundwater;
• piles are screwed into holes;
• The last step is to assemble the harness.

Strip foundation

For heaving soils, a strip foundation is ideal.

It can also be equipped with your own hands, following the instructions.

• In the area under the bath, you need to dig a trench about 45 cm wide and about half a meter deep.
• This trench is filled with sand to the very top. Like a cake, the foundation is laid in layers and each layer of sand needs to be compacted, adding water will help with this.

• Next, formwork is placed with dimensions of approximately 45 by 30 cm. The base of the formwork can be strengthened with metal pipes and rods.
• Then you can pour concrete.
• After the concrete has completely dried, the foundation is covered with roofing material. This will provide the necessary waterproofing of the frame structure.

Walls and floor

To build strong walls of a frame bath, it is enough to follow some rules:

• It is necessary to dry the lumber well. It is not recommended to build from birch, as it quickly rots. Aspen, linden or larch, which have good thermal insulation properties, are better suited.
• The boards of all rooms, with the exception of the steam room and the shower room, are treated with an antiseptic from the inside. Outside, varnish is usually applied. The lower trim is made of beams fastened with nails.

• It is necessary to wall up the corner posts in concrete.
• When lining with clapboard, it should be overlapped to avoid the formation of gaps between the sheets. Also, this method protects against moisture penetration.

It is most convenient to assemble the frame in a free area in the yard. The distance between the posts depends on the type of material used for sheathing. In order for the sheets to organize a solid wall and they do not have to be adjusted, you can take a step of 60 cm. The same value is suitable for installing insulation, which is placed between the racks.

In those places where holes for ventilation will be made, the gaps can be increased by another 30-35 cm. The distance between the vertical supports is filled with thermal insulation.

The outer skin is often made of wooden lining, laid horizontally.

Floor arrangement

The design and floor covering may be different depending on which particular bath room it is made for. Where water will constantly pour, it is better to make a pouring floor. It is assembled from ordinary boards not close, but with small gaps so that water flows into the ground. Insulation is not required for such a floor.

Work on laying the floor begins with laying the log. Support posts will be required if the distance between the support points exceeds 3 meters. In places where the logs touch the base, roofing material is laid in several layers. Boards are mounted on top of the logs. The pouring floor is most often not fixed so that it can be lifted and dried properly.

In other rooms (steam room, dressing room and lounge), the floors are also quite easy to install. The bars are attached to the logs, and boards for the subfloor are placed on top. Roofing felt and insulation about 10 cm thick are laid on them. When installing boards for a finished floor, you must not forget about vapor barrier equipment using glassine.

For the floor in the shower, a completely different technology is needed. For this room, you can even make a separate foundation. Lags for such a floor are asbestos-cement pipes. A cut board about 5 cm thick is laid on top of them. Small gaps of 5-6 mm must be left between the boards. Upon completion of all stages, the floor is pressed with skirting boards.

Roof

To summarize, the roof structure consists of two main elements: the rafter system and the flooring itself with the crate. It may also include an attic floor, but often flat roofs are made without it. The roof for a bath can be single-pitched or gable. Four-slope structures are much less common. The scheme of their construction is quite simple and even a novice builder can handle it.

A roof with one slope is constructed when the bath is attached to a dwelling or, if necessary, to save money. Its advantages are the absence of requirements for the height of the roof, low cost and ease of construction.

A gable roof is often made in log baths. The owner chooses the height and slope, taking into account the weather conditions in the region and the availability of plans for the further use of the under-roof space.

Varieties of truss systems are shown in the diagram.

The angle of inclination of the roof can be determined independently, the larger it is, the easier the precipitation will slide off the roof. Too steep a slope should not be done in areas with strong gusty winds. In the snowy regions of the north, an angle of 45 degrees will be optimal, and in places with low winter precipitation, it is better to equip a flat roof. It must be remembered that the smaller the angle of the roof, the less material will be needed and the cost, of course, will be lower.

supports

The support is provided by beams and the base for the rafters, which is located along the perimeter of the walls (Mauerlat). Beams can go beyond the walls no more than half a meter, otherwise additional supports will be required. The shed roofing system rests on the walls at different levels, and the roof trusses are attached using rafters and girders.

Ways to install rafters

Rafters - the basis of the future roof. It is easiest to build from prefabricated elements, connecting them with self-tapping screws or screws. Notches should be made exclusively at the fulcrum, and which ones and where are shown in the diagram.

Rafters are hanging and layered. Let's take a closer look at each of the varieties.

hanging rafters

Such rafters rest against each other at the highest point, forming a noticeable horizontal pressure. To reduce it, you need to build a lower belt, which in this design can be called the base of the "triangle".

It is worth paying special attention to the connections in such a truss system, they must be as reliable and rigid as possible in order to cope with significant loads.

Rafters

This type is more often used for pitched roofs. There is no need for puffs for laying rafters. They are installed simply along the slope and rest on the Mauerlat, which, in turn, rests on load-bearing walls. Options for building a system with layered rafters are shown in the diagram:

Rafters for a gable roof

The basis of this roof is rafters of the same size, installed alternately. Roofing, insulation, hydro and vapor barrier are later laid on this basis. Depending on the design features, the "isosceles triangle" is supplemented with additional elements for strengthening.

For convenience and safety, you can assemble the truss system on the ground. True, then it will have to be lifted up, which will require a whole team of workers or special construction equipment.

Professional builders recommend that you first make a template that will be exactly the same in shape as all subsequent roof trusses. To do this, you need to connect two roof trusses at the top point with a nail. Then the opposite ends are placed at the point of the future support and fixed. It is important throughout the work to control that the installation of the rafters is clearly vertical. You can do this with the help of plumb lines.

Installation begins with the installation of front truss trusses, between which you need to stretch the cord (later it will serve as a guide). The standard distance between the rafters is 1.2 meters, but the value can vary both up and down, depending on the characteristics of each individual roof.

Shed roof rafters

The basis for the insulation is laid out for such roofs with an optimal step of 0.5 meters. If the distance between the supports is less than 5 meters, additional racks can be omitted.

For the perimeter of the building, the rafters are usually taken out 40-45 cm, which will help equip the cornices. For the material of the crate, a beam or board is suitable. The step between its elements is determined in accordance with the type of roof. For a soft roof, a plank crate at intervals of 1-2 cm is suitable. For a sheet roof, from a bar with a distance between elements from 20 to 45 cm.

Installation technology involves starting work from the ridge and gradually moving to the cornices. For fixing, ordinary screws or self-tapping screws are used.

Ventilation

The equipment of the ventilation system is one of the most important stages in the construction of a frame bath. Not only comfortable bathing procedures, but also the safety of people inside depends on its quality.

For kindling, coal or wood is used. In order not to be poisoned by carbon monoxide and to prevent the penetration of combustion products inside, high-quality ventilation is necessary. It will also help to cope with the formation of fungus and condensation.

At certain intervals, air cannot be released from the steam room, which means that the ventilation must be tightly closed. It is desirable to organize a system with the ability to manually control the movement of air in the bath.

It is important to think over the system in advance, even at the design stage. It will be very problematic to introduce ventilation into a finished building.

Separate ventilation systems are implied for different types of buildings. This also applies to frame baths.

It is very important that there is somewhere to go to excess moisture and heat. For frame structures, professionals advise installing adjacent ventilation. She will be able to get rid of excess steam, and bring fresh air instead.

You will need two holes - air will enter the room through one, and exit through the other. Pipes are installed in them, which can be supplemented with the installation of fans. Such a system will work in all weather conditions.

To ensure good ventilation, you need to place these holes as correctly as possible. Then the air will be able, roughly speaking, to enter where it is necessary and to leave where it is necessary.

There are several standard schemes for the location of holes. The first thing to consider is the location of the firebox in the bath. If it is inside the steam room, you will need to work according to one scheme, if outside it, according to another.

The supply pipe should be located quite close to the firebox, but below the level of the chimney. Exhaust pipes are often placed in the opposite wall under the ceiling.

Sometimes two outlets are made in frame baths (not far from each other, but at different heights) and one inlet. This helps to control the movement of air masses in the bath. There is a clear rule: the higher the exhaust opening, the stronger the draft. That is, it is not necessary to make an outlet pipe both in the middle of the wall and near the inlet. Otherwise, ventilation will lose its functionality.

Gate valves in holes are of particular importance. This will control the flow of air into the room. This is especially true if it's windy outside. It is recommended to make not only valves for closing pipes, but also to install a fan inside.

This will make it possible to ventilate the bath well even in the complete absence of wind on the street.

Using the steam room, you need to open the valves every three hours and renew the air. Otherwise, being in the bath may become unsafe.

Ventilation for a bath with a stove in an adjacent room with a steam room

This type of oven placement is the most common. Its significant advantage is the absence of garbage in the steam room and the preservation of heat (because you do not have to open the door often).

Adjacent ventilation is suitable, and for hot steam to enter the steam room, you need to organize a kind of tunnel under the floor. Its role can be played by an ordinary pipe. A grill should be installed at both ends of this pipe, and a valve should be installed at the outlet to regulate the flow of air inside.

The optimal place for the hood equipment will be the opposite wall (or a wall diagonally). Its role can be played by a box with dimensions of approximately 25 by 30 cm.

It is important to remember that all vents must be the same size. Otherwise, the system simply will not be able to function normally: for example, hot air will come out faster than cold air has time to enter and heat up.

Ventilation system for a sauna with an oven in the steam room

The option of placing the firebox directly in the steam room is not popular. After all, it takes up a lot of space, and from firewood and coal there is always garbage on the floor. But for such a room there are separate rules for arranging ventilation. Oddly enough, everything is much simpler here.

Some bathhouse owners do not even spend time organizing an additional ventilation system, but simply release steam through an ajar door. In this case, fresh air enters the steam room with the help of a blower, which is in every stove. If the furnace does not have a full-fledged pipe, it will be necessary to equip ventilation according to all the rules - with inlet and outlet pipes.

It is better to place a stove without a pipe on a kind of podium, so that it is more convenient to bring a pipe to it from the street. It will also allow air to circulate freely in the building.