When to Open Roses in Spring - How to Save Roses from Damping Out. Spring cares in the rose garden

Quote message When to open roses in spring after winter - how to save affected plants

http://1dacha-sad.com/kogda-vesnoj-otkryvat-rozy-p...pasti-postradavshie-rasteniya/

Not all roses can survive the winter, sometimes, even if all the rules are followed, it turns out that some plant has suffered. It's a shame what to do ... Of course, not everything is lost, there is still a chance to go out and save the rose. Today we’ll talk about when to open roses in the spring after wintering, as well as how to restore the affected plants.

It would seem that she did everything according to the instructions: she covered her roses, the plants overwintered, in the spring she checked the shoots - green, but then they darkened and died ... What went wrong?

In the spring, it is important not to miss the moment when you should remove the winter shelters from rose bushes. The main reason for the death of roses in spring is damping off. Winter is over, the roses have overwintered, and then they are steamed. Try not to let this happen! The most optimal shelter method is air-dry, consider this when sheltering your landings.

How to save roses from decay

Rose bushes are very sensitive and react to warming quite vividly. As soon as warm days set in, the plants come out of winter hibernation: the buds begin to swell, although the roots in the ground have not yet woken up.

I advise covering roses nonwoven fabric, an agrofibre that both breathes and repels excess sunlight, thanks to white color. Excessive heat under such a canvas does not accumulate and this has a very positive effect on the condition of the shoots of roses.

During the period of abundant snowmelt, make sure that melt water does not stagnate under the roses. Try to make drainage grooves, divert water from plantings. Roots don't need that much moisture. On particularly warm days, raise the edges of the shelters and provide ventilation for the shelter.

When to remove shelters from plants in spring

Everyone talks about how important it is to remove shelters from roses in time. But what does time mean for your area? Focus on the condition of the soil. If it has thawed on the bayonet of a shovel, that is, the roots are already freely receiving food and come to life, you can remove the insulation.

If you open the roses early, you can freeze the buds of the plant, and if you are late with the removal of shelters, then your roses can get worn out. However, this will not happen if you cover them with agrofibre.

It is also remarkable that you can remove it layer by layer, leaving one layer in the final, which will, like a shirt, simply save daytime heat on cool spring nights. And during the day it will protect the overwintered bark from sunburn at first. Another plus is protection against overdrying.

Gradual removal of shelters

If your shelters are made in traditional style, from roofing material or thick paper, then in this case you will need to gradually remove the shelter from your roses.

At the first stage, cut holes on both sides, allow outdoor air to circulate freely inside. Let the plant get used to the ambient temperature for a day.

At the second stage, we completely free the roses from the dense shelter, but instead of it, we definitely do shading! It can be from a single layer of paper, fabric, or covering material.

After disclosure winter clothes roses should be checked for the presence of dried shoots, broken and frozen twigs. It is better to immediately cut them with secateurs. We also remove fallen leaves.

Rose grafting site treatment

After the earth has completely thawed, rake off the excess earth from the rose bushes if you hilled them in the fall. Some spud with foliage, straw and the like, all this should be removed from the shoots, carefully, trying not to damage the stem of the rose itself.

Every spring, the grafting site, or neck rose bush rinse thoroughly with a 1% solution blue vitriol to prevent disease and the development of fungal infections.

Instead of vitriol, you can still use a solution of potassium permanganate (dilute to a bright pink color). The procedure is best done with a hard brush for painting, I take a width of 2 cm.

Treatment of frostbites in roses

If you have covered roses since autumn in damp weather, and then immediately hit frosts, then on the trunks, in places where water accumulates, you can find frost holes. All this is visible in the spring visual inspection shoots.

If the damage to the bark is small, then the wound can be healed, and if it is large and located close to the grafting zone, then it is better to remove such an escape. Always look at the situation.

The crack should be treated with a one percent solution of copper sulfate, or, as already mentioned, with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, with a brush, and then cover the wound with garden pitch.

Be sure to cover up all fresh cracks in the bark, this will help prevent the appearance of a focus of infection with fungal diseases. Less fungus and mold spores - healthier your roses!

Removing mold on roses

If your shelter was very humid, then after removing it, you can find pockets of mold that hit the shoots. It's not so scary, everything can be washed off and dried.

Process with the same composition - one percent copper sulphate and a solution of potassium permanganate. For the future, so that mold does not appear, process the shoots in the fall, before covering with the same composition.

We treat decay in roses

Ground cover and climbing roses are most susceptible to decay. They most often hide on the ground, they do not have access to air, but there is always excess moisture. hence the frequent lesions with infectious burns from excess moisture. It's like diaper rash in a child. And it needs to be treated!

You can identify such diaper rash by reddish, ringing spots on the shoot. They can be dark in the center, you can't go wrong once you see them. As a rule, areas with diaper rash are cut out if they are large.

And if the shoots are slightly affected and there is a chance to save the twig, then the site of the lesion is cleaned to healthy wood, and then covered with garden pitch.

Spring pruning roses

After removing all the shelters, when the truly spring weather is already established, rose bushes are pruned according to the rules, according to varieties. After pruning, the plants are sprayed with a one percent solution of copper sulphate and plentifully, under the root, are watered with warm water to start the root system. Also, roses should be fed and spud.

Here come the warm days. It's time to "wake up" the queen of the garden - the rose. With the first warm days, anxiety about his wards inevitably creeps into the soul of the rose grower. When to open roses after wintering, so that the obstinate beauties do not get wet and freeze, because a cold snap is still possible - such a dilemma traditionally arises in early March. Caring for roses in the spring is a troublesome process, but by doing everything right and in a timely manner, you will lay the foundation for their successful development for the entire season. To make your start successful, we will consider each stage in detail.

When to open roses after winter shelters

Despite the fact that the rose cannot stand severe frosts, most often it does not die from freezing, but from damping out under winter shelter. Therefore, one should not miss the auspicious moment when the cover of roses needs to be removed. If you hurry up then open roses frost may catch, and delay will inevitably lead to dampness. This is the same situation when radish horseradish is not sweeter.

To open roses in spring the best time- end of March - beginning of April, when daytime temperatures are already high, and at night there is a slight frost. The main rule is to open roses gradually. The spruce branches are removed as the soil thaws, so as not to break the shoots and not damage the buds, the non-woven covering material is first lifted from the ends for ventilation and after 3-4 days it is completely removed. Before removing the shelter, the soil must completely thaw. Otherwise, the daytime heat will give the bushes a signal about the beginning of the growing season, and the roots in the frozen ground will not be able to provide it, and the plant will die. It is better to remove shelter from roses on a cloudy day or in the evening so that the shoots of roses do not get sunburn. The bright sun and wind can cause overwintered roses to dry out, because under cover they were in enough humid environment and cannot adapt immediately. After opening the rose, it is better to shade with paper, spruce branches or lutrasil from bright sun. After getting used to, all protective equipment can be painlessly removed.

Latest articles about gardening and gardening

After the shelter is removed, you need to carefully examine the overwintered roses. All broken and blackened shoots must be removed. If there are frost holes on the shoots, then such shoots will also need to be removed. Frost cracks occur on shoots when water, getting into cracks and scratches on the bark, freezes. If it is impossible to remove the shoot, then the crack must be washed with a solution of potassium permanganate, and then a strip of medical plaster should be applied, otherwise these cracks will become a focus of fungal infection, which can lead to the death of the bush. After removing the shelter, mold may be found on some shoots. This happens when, before sheltering for the winter, roses are not treated with a solution of iron sulfate. In this case, the mold is removed from the shoots, and the shoot itself is washed with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate. It is also advisable to wash the vaccination site with a solution of potassium permanganate. To do this, carefully rake the ground from the base of the bush and gently and very carefully wash the grafting site with a soft brush. For prevention, it is good to spray the bushes with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Saving roses from decay after winter shelters

Roses are very sensitive to spring warming. With the advent of warm days, the period of their natural rest ends: the buds awaken and begin to swell. The roots in the frozen ground under cover do not yet work. In March, under the action of the sun's rays, the tops of the shelters on the frames begin to be exposed, and snow slides from their ends. During this period, we throw snow on the bare places of the air-dry shelter and add snow on top of climbing, standard and ground cover roses. In late March - early April, when the snow begins to melt, we remove it from all shelters. At the same time, we make drainage grooves so that melt water does not stagnate next to the landings. As it gets warmer, we open the ends of the shelters, ventilate the roses well, and then close them again, leaving small holes at the top for ventilation. Around climbing, ground cover, standard and miniature roses, which were covered with earth or sand and covered with spruce branches, sawdust or leaves, loosen upper layer, compacted and compacted during the winter. Then we lift the edges of the insulation and make vents to ensure ventilation of the bushes.

Articles for gardeners and gardeners

Treatment of the rose grafting site after winter shelters

After the earth has completely thawed, rake off the excess earth from the rose bushes if you hilled them in the fall. Some spud with foliage, straw and the like, all this should be removed from the shoots, carefully, trying not to damage the stem of the rose itself. Every spring, the grafting site, or the neck of the rose bush, must be thoroughly washed with a one percent solution of copper sulfate to prevent disease and the development of fungal infections. Instead of vitriol, you can still use a solution of potassium permanganate (dilute to a bright pink color). The procedure is best done with a hard brush for painting, I take a width of 2 cm.

Spring pruning of roses after winter shelters

General rules for pruning roses:

1. Pruning is necessary every spring before bud break.
2. Be sure to use a sharp pruner.
3. When cutting off the branches completely, you can’t leave stumps, you need to cut them to the very base - to the “ring”.
4. Branches should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, stepping up from a healthy outer kidney about 5 mm. It is necessary to choose exactly the kidney growing outward, so that in the future there will be no thickening of the bush.
5. Forming a bush, about 5 healthy strong and not old branches are left, the rest are cut into a “ring”.

Sanitary pruning of roses is otherwise the same as for other shrubs. All dry and damaged branches are cut out to healthy wood, as well as those growing inside the bush. You should also remove very old branches (more than 4 years old). We must cover the places where large branches are cut with garden pitch or brilliant green to avoid infection. We also remove the wild shoots that appear below the grafting site. After that, the bushes slightly spud.

Feeding roses after winter shelters

By pruning roses, we give impetus to active growth young shoots. At the same time, the first leaves appear and buds are laid. The plant actively consumes nutrients from the soil, especially nitrogen. Stepping back about 15 cm from the trunk, we introduce nitrogen mineral fertilizers. We apply fertilizers according to the instructions, do not overestimate the norm! We loosen the soil, mixing fertilizer granules with it and water it well with warm water. You can apply fertilizer in liquid form, first dissolving in water. In order for the top dressing of roses in the spring to be complete, you should add a little organic matter. One week after mineral supplement, add about half a bucket of heavily rotted manure under each bush, deepening it a little into the soil, pour water well on top. You can use a weakly concentrated solution of rotted mullein or chicken manure(1:10 and 1:20). Roses respond very well to foliar top dressing calcium nitrate. In this case, not only the bush is sprayed, but also the soil around it.

Once again, I want to note, do not overdo it with fertilizers! It is better to underfeed roses a little than to overfeed them.

Articles for flower growers

Protection of roses from diseases and pests

In order to prevent diseases and protect against insect pests, roses are processed in the spring by special means- insecticides and fungicides. The first time spraying is done 3-4 days after pruning. Solutions of kerosene (1 tsp per 10 liters of water) and 3% copper sulphate are well protected from diseases. To prevent fungal diseases, roses in the spring can be treated with Fitosporin or a solution of wood ash.

RoseClear has proven itself to be a universally powerful drug. When using it, you can immediately solve 2 tasks: to protect both from pests and from diseases. The frequency of processing bushes in the garden is every 2 weeks. The preparation of the working solution must be carried out strictly according to the instructions. For spraying, a calm day is chosen, and preferably in the evening. Do not forget about safety measures: before starting work, put on a respirator mask and gloves. If rose petals are planned to be collected for making jam and for other food purposes, it is impossible to treat plants with pesticides. In this case, it is better to contact folk remedies protection: use a solution laundry soap(200 g of soap per 10 liters of water), infusions of nettle and tansy. Finished flower care timely watering. Let it be not frequent, but plentiful.

Spring rose care suburban area may seem time-consuming and burdensome. But when the roses bloom in all their glory, all difficulties will be forgotten. Only admiration and satisfaction from the work done will remain.

When to remove winter cover from roses

In its homeland, the rose is evergreen shrub. The growing season for flowers does not stop, it only stops for short span time. In conditions middle lane the dormant period stretches for several months.

At good care bushes can grow for about 10 years. Roses bloom from the end of June until the first frost. Shelter protects the bushes from the cold and creates the conditions for a quick entry into growth in the spring.

Winter is a real test for roses, the bushes are damaged not only from the cold, but also rot. Some varieties of roses, even when the temperature drops to -3 degrees, may die. In order to prevent this from happening, rose bushes are sheltered for the winter. From the correct shelter and timely removal of protection from plants depends abundant flowering, growth and development of bushes.

In the spring, flower growers are often late with the removal of protective shelters. The dormant period of roses ends with the first warm spring days. The buds swell, but the roots remain dormant.

When the shoots become dense, juicy, the buds are saturated with moisture, you can begin to remove shelters.

The cover is not removed immediately. Plants first get used to the ventilation and only after 2 weeks the protective material is removed. This happens from the beginning to the end of April (depending on the region, weather). At warm early spring shelter can be removed in late March - early April.

In the first weeks, the plants are covered with non-woven material, and only in settled warm weather, the bushes are completely freed and, if necessary, completely straightened.

When the soil melts to a depth of 20-30 centimeters, the protective cover can be removed.

Attention! It is forbidden to remove the shelter in the presence of snow!

Temperature indicators at night should not fall below -2 degrees. When removing the shelter, the roses are first covered with a film or spunbond.

Daily temperatures should be at least 10-15 degrees.

When the air warms up, the film is removed and the rose can grow without additional protection from sun and cold.

In the Moscow region, the overwintering of rose bushes is much worse than in warm regions. Because of short summer, the bushes do not have time to fully prepare for the winter period.

The bark of the shoots is more watery, loose. Nutrients often not enough. Therefore, plants need good shelter.

In the Urals

Best of all, strong, powerful bushes endure winter in the Urals. Preparation for wintering is carried out from mid-August. Before the autumn shelter, the bushes are covered with a dense film for a month, this reduces the accumulation of moisture. Shelter is made at the first freezing of the soil. For the winter, plants are covered with foliage, peat, spruce branches, and on top with a film.

Shelter in warm spring and complete melting of the snow cover is removed from the beginning to the end of April. To protect against frost, the bushes are covered with non-woven material. The material is removed in warm weather, and at night they return again. Full removal of protection occurs at the beginning of summer.

In Siberia

The best shelter for Siberian frosts is spruce branches or boxes. On top of the inverted box, 2 layers of cardboard and roofing material are laid out. When the air temperature drops below -8 degrees, the ventilated openings are closed with spruce branches or a film.

Shelter can be removed in the third decade of April. To protect against spring freezing, roses are covered with spunbond until the air and soil are completely warmed up.

Shelter should be taken care of from mid-August. Flowers are spudded with soddy soil from the garden, 1-3 buckets of soil are used for each plant (depending on the age and size of the bush). Before autumn shelter all young, unripe shoots are pinched.
The rose is watered with a solution of double superphosphate (300 grams per bucket of water). Watering is done around the bush. On the square meter goes about a liter of solution. Red leaves then turn green. The plant is almost ready for wintering.

A month before shelter from the bushes, you need to start picking off the leaves, moving from the bottom up. When sheltering, the plant should not have foliage and flowers, buds. At the end of autumn, the base of the bushes is sprinkled with sand. It is being treated for various diseases. Mature stems easily tolerate cold down to -8 degrees.

Before frost, the base of the bush is covered with a leaf and peat mixture to a height of about 10 centimeters. The whips bend down at 5 degrees of heat. After the first frost, roses can be covered with a protective cover.

When the temperature rises above 0 degrees and the active melting of snow, it must be cleaned from shelters. Drainage grooves are created near the landings to remove excess moisture. The pad is removed. The ends of the shelters open slightly, the bushes are ventilated. Then the shelter is closed, leaving a hole for ventilation on top.

The area around the roses, covered with earth for the winter and covered with sawdust, spruce branches, loosens. The edge of the insulation is raised to ventilate the plants.

Removal is carried out when the soil warms up in the evening, otherwise the young bark may get sunburn.

First, the ends of the shelter open. A day later, the east or north side opens.

On the third day, the shelter can be removed completely. Roses are darkened with any non-woven material or spruce branches. Shelter remains for 2 weeks, until warm weather sets in.

Temperature indicators at the same time at night should not fall below five degrees.
From under the bushes you need to rake and remove from the site excess soil, sawdust, peat. With a strong swelling of the kidneys, spraying with protective preparations is performed.

To protect plants from the cold on ground cover, climbing and standard species roses are added and an extra layer of snow is thrown on.

Polyanthus, hybrid tea, floribunda roses are afraid of the cold and require dense shelter with fluffy snow throughout the winter.

Since miniature, standard, climbing, Pernsian, ground cover types of roses when sheltering, they were covered with earth and covered with leaves, sawdust, spruce branches for the winter, they need to loosen the soil near the bush in spring.

Then the shelter returns to its place again, and gaps remain at the edges for the passage of air. When the soil warms up (after a week), the frame shelter opens on one side.

After a couple of days, the shelter is removed.

Hybrid tea varieties, after removing the shelter, a film is covered over the frame, this will protect the plant from the cold, accelerate the growth and flowering of the plant.

climbing roses they rise to the supports after the establishment of warm weather. With a sharp cold snap, the bushes are covered with spunbond.

What do roses cover

Roses can be covered with spruce branches, fresh sawdust, needles, peat, dry leaves, boxes, film, cut off large plastic bottles.

Cannot be used to cover roses: dense film, old sawdust hardwood, moss, straw, hay, manure. Excessive dampness leads to root rot and death.

The covering layer must be thin, otherwise the bush will start to rot. Such a shelter will allow the plant to breathe and protect from the cold and bright sun.

After the opening of the roses, it is necessary to prune. Cold-damaged and dry branches and leaves are removed. Pruning for each variety should be individual. After these procedures, the roses are sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate.

Strongly frozen areas located near the vaccination site are removed.

Slightly damaged shoots are washed with a soft brush:

• potassium permanganate solution (1 gram per 4 liters of water),
• iodine (1 milliliter per 400 milliliters of water)
• copper sulfate solution (10 grams per liter of water).

Places of cuts are processed with garden pitch.

At severe damage root system, the plant is dug up and removed from the site.

Bushes under the root are watered warm water. After 3-5 days, fertilizers are applied to the soil, bushes are hilled.

How to protect bushes from decay

Bush at high humidity air, and the soil begins to rot (it is affected by rot) due to improper or untimely removal of the protective cover. A frozen or frozen shoot leads to the death of a flower.

For prevention, protective measures. The place of plant grafting is freed from the earthen layer. The site is cleaned and washed with a solution of fungicides or copper sulfate.

The rooted areas are removed, the shoots are washed with a solution of copper sulfate or fungicides.

Heavily affected roses need to be watered with Kornerost or Kornevin, sprayed with Epin. Bushes depart by the beginning of summer.

To prevent aging, you need to use a thin, breathable covering material. A thin cover protects from the cold, allows plants to breathe and does not accumulate excess moisture.

In autumn, the bush is treated with a copper-containing preparation or iron vitriol with an admixture of soapy water.

Roses after winter: video

Roses, regardless of species and varieties, are the perfect decoration for gardens. Proper conduct covering measures and timely removal of shelter from the bushes allows you to get beautiful and lush flowers in the summer.

Carefully wrapping roses for the winter is not 100% protection. Unfortunately, rose seedlings die in the spring. In order to understand why this happens, you need to answer the question of how and when to open roses in the spring. Beginning gardeners often do not suspect why healthy seedling after opening, it dies before it has time to grow.

If you remove the shelter too early, there is a risk of death of the kidneys that appeared ahead of time. If you are late with the opening, you can bring the plant to rotting. After winter, it is necessary to wait until the changeable spring weather stabilizes. An approximate indicator can be considered thawing of the soil to a depth of about 50 centimeters. A stable positive temperature is quite suitable, slight frosts are acceptable at night.
Experienced gardeners know that frost is not so much dangerous for roses as allowing them to dry out. Unfortunately, even open roses are sometimes susceptible to this disease. When growing roses, it is important not to miss the moment of discovery, however this is not the only key factor, it is necessary to understand exactly how this is done.

Spring has come, it's time to open the roses

Rules for opening and caring for spring roses

The first sign of spring awakening of roses is the swelling of the buds under a warm, dry cover. At the same time, the soil is still frozen and root system while sleeping. Immediately after the appearance of these signs, take the following measures:

1. at the first appearance of the top of the frame, throw some snow on it, this will protect the rose from temperature changes;
2. as soon as the weather has become stable, remove the snow and make grooves to drain the melt water, do not forget to ventilate the plant for half an hour;
3. after about a week, repeat the airing, in case of warm weather, leave small holes on the sides for air circulation;
4. after another week, open the shelter on the north or east side;
5. after the next three days, remove the shelter completely;
6. immediately take care of the prevention of diseases and pests, put a blackout to protect the rose from sunburn;
7. after about two weeks, the shading is removed and the copper-containing preparations are re-treated, after which they are fed with organic fertilizers;

Little secrets of experienced gardeners

Remove the shelter should be in the evening or cloudy weather, this will help to avoid exposure to sunlight.

In no case, you can not immediately remove the shelter, it is necessary to do this gradually. The adaptation of the rose can be affected by a night drop in temperature, as well as strong wind or the bright rays of the sun. Overwintered shoots still have weak immunity, so it takes a little time to get used to life in the open field.

If the weather forecast promises frosts, and you have already managed to take pictures winter shelter, try to protect the plant with spunbond, agrofiber or lutrasil.
Features of removing cover for different types roses

The optimal conditions for the development of varieties of roses can vary significantly. There are general rules:

• Standard types of roses, begin to lift on supports for weaving, only when temperature regime will fully recover. This is done in order to have time to cover the bush, in case of adverse conditions. You can not miss the beginning of the growth of shoots. This moment is very important, at this time it is necessary to tie up the bushes. As a result, there is a risk of damage.
• hybrid tea roses, it is recommended to cover with a film immediately after removing the winter frame. This will accelerate the growth of the plant, increase its flowering and protect it from temperature changes.

Spring pruning roses

At about the same time, it is necessary to prune, it is important to have time before the buds fully open. There are also nuances here:

• pruning floribunda and tea varieties, involves shortening the shoots by about a third of the length, pruning is done annually;
• ground-blooded varieties should be cut no more than once every five years, the shoot is cut to 15 centimeters;
• when pruning remontant shrubs, not only damaged shoots are removed, but also those growing inward, preventing excessive density;
• weaving roses are shortened to areas with healthy tissue, damaged and old shoots are removed.

Potential problems after opening

Even if you have correctly determined the time when you can open roses, this does not guarantee against the appearance of some problems:

• Damaged areas - frost cracks, appear on the stem from frozen water that has fallen into a slight damage to the stem. In the case of a large lesion, the escape is eliminated. In other cases, they try to cure with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate. You can take advantage of the antiseptic properties of plantain by wrapping its leaf on the damaged area.
• Sometimes after an untimely opening, mold may occur, preparations containing copper or iron do an excellent job with this problem.
• Often, reddened areas appear on the shoot, which darken and increase in size over time. These are the symptoms of a burn. An escape with such damage is best removed.

Please note that tea roses have the highest resistance to various damage. Other varieties have weaker immunity.