Gloxinia woke up in October what to do. When to get gloxinia out of rest: we finish hibernation successfully

In winter, there is a high probability that gloxinia may die, so the plant is sent to a dark, cool place, placed in an artificial sleep for recovery. When to get gloxinia, so as not to miscalculate with the time of awakening? You will learn about this in today's article.

When to get gloxinia out of a dark place?

Gloxinia should wake up after a forced period of rest. For this to happen, the tuber of the plant must be stored correctly.

Gloxinia storage conditions in winter:

• Cool and dark place;
• Protection from moisture;
• Rest no longer than 4 months;
• Do not dry completely - water occasionally;

Already sent on vacation adult, a little tired gloxinia. Young flowers do not have time to form a sufficient tuber. It can noticeably rot, deteriorate or not wake up - there is a high probability of losing the plant.

When to get gloxinia out of a dark place: at the beginning or end of March. Look at when the sprouts will break through - a signal of the awakening of gloxinia. Before a possible awakening, it is not necessary to remove or disturb gloxinia.

How to wake up gloxinia after hibernation?

We take out gloxinia from a dark place, expose it to light. At the beginning of spring, the lighting will not be intense, so there is no need to be afraid for the condition of the flower. Start watering. Moisture will contribute to the formation of new shoots. You will stimulate their development and watch how the flower gradually forms a beautiful, flowery hat. Basically, gloxinia should form at least 1-2 shoots, but if this does not happen, it's time to look for reasons.

Gloxinia did not wake up: causes and remedies

Improper storage, as we noted above, can affect the awakening of gloxinia. Make sure even before the dormant period that you are familiar with all the rules for caring for the plant in winter.

Why gloxinia does not wake up:

• Dry tuber;
• Poor quality plant;
• Young plant;
• Rotted or flooded;

Put in a dark place- a closet, closet, under the bath - forgetting about moistening before the start of spring is not necessary. Periodically check the condition of the soil mixture, adding water as needed. An overdried tuber can be placed under a plastic wrap or bag. Pour wet sphagnum moss into the home greenhouse, tie it up. resuscitation should help gloxinia re-hydrate, but it is better to inspect the tuber.

Blackened or visibly rotted tuber Gloxinia is no longer suitable for cultivation. Most likely, the storage conditions did not fit. Perhaps heavy watering or a damp, cold place affected his condition.

A young plant or low quality tuber also slows down development. Young gloxinia is not sent for storage, but potentially low-quality tubers treated with "Fitosporin" before the dormant period. You can withstand it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate to strengthen and protect against subsequent pest damage. Plant a gloxinia tuber after dormancy in a dark place in a nutrient substrate - the store land is depleted and not suitable for forcing.

↓ Write in the comments how do you navigate when to get gloxinia out of a dark place? When did your home beauty start to wake up?

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Why does not indoor gloxinia bloom?

Growing Gloxinia: 18 Problems and Solutions Gloxinia is a very popular indoor plant. But, like any plant, gloxinia has its own secrets, troubles, in a word, there are problems when growing. To avoid them, you need to try to correct the conditions of gloxinia at the first sign of their appearance. 1. Gloxinia did not wake up after wintering. The storage place for gloxinia tubers should be cool and dark. If the gloxinia tuber is adult and healthy, then it is only a little cast, as shoots begin to grow in it. However, in practice it does not always work out the way it should be. The very first and simple first aid when waking gloxinia from hibernation is to wrap the gloxinia pot in a plastic bag to create high humidity for shoots to appear. It is quite possible that the wintering was too dry and the tuber dried out. In order not to encounter such a problem, pots with gloxinia tubers in winter need to be lightly watered sometimes. And you can put gloxinia tubers in plastic bags, pouring some soil or wet moss into it. Close the bags or tie tightly. The bag will retain constant humidity, and due to the fact that the bag is transparent, you will have the opportunity to observe gloxinia tubers in winter. At the first appearance of leaves, you can immediately plant gloxinia in a pot. If gloxinia did not wake up after wintering, then too young gloxinia was sent for wintering, which did not have time to form a tuber. If a gloxinia tuber was purchased in a store and after last year's flowering it did not wake up from hibernation, it is possible that the tuber was sold of very low quality. A lot of flower growers complain about this problem. Outwardly, the tubers look quite safe, but in reality it may turn out that they are already old, or infected with some kind of infection or pests, or simply overfed with various growth stimulants and fertilizers. The strength of such tubers is only enough to bloom for one season. Dig up the tuber, inspect it: if it is very wrinkled, then most likely it is gone. Break or cut it: the tuber on the cut should be slightly yellowish or pinkish. If so, then dry the sections, sprinkle with crushed charcoal, you can treat with ordinary brilliant green or fucorcin (raspberry liquid, a strong antiseptic, has an antifungal effect, sold in pharmacies). You can treat the tuber with epin or zircon to increase the vitality of the tuber, to stimulate it to form shoots. If the gloxinia tuber is brown on the cut, then most likely it has disappeared. If the brown color is only from one edge, cut off all the rot, process the tuber as described above and plant it in new soil. If you want the purchased tubers to be able to endure wintering without problems, then immediately after acquiring gloxinia tubers at home, process all planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin. This treatment is aimed at keeping gloxinia tubers from rot. The next step is the treatment of gloxinia tubers with Actellik or Fitoverm. These drugs will help get rid of thrips, spider mites and other pests of indoor plants. If you purchased gloxinia in a pot, change the ground and process the tuber. The land that is sold in pots along with plants is very poor. Perhaps the tuber is already old, and just died. Gloxinia live three to four years. If you really value this particular variety of gloxinia, try to root the cutting or leaf in advance. 2. Gloxinia did not have time to form a tuber If gloxinia is grown from seeds, and the seeds are planted late, then gloxinia may not have time to form a tuber. Gloxinia blooms only at six to seven months of age, when it grows six to seven pairs of leaves. In this case, young gloxinia should not be sent for wintering, because you can completely lose gloxinia. In winter, try to maintain sufficient humidity and light so that the gloxinia does not stretch out. To understand whether gloxinia will overwinter or not, count the leaves: if there are only four or five pairs, then such a small gloxinia cannot be sent for wintering. Gloxinia will pick up buds when it has grown at least six pairs of leaves. Also, the tuber does not have time to form when growing gloxinia from a leaf or cutting, especially if the cutting is too long and deeply buried. Do not abuse watering. Due to waterlogging, gloxinia may also not have time to form a tuber. Gloxinia has a too small tuber, it may not endure wintering 3. Gloxinia shoots are very long Gloxinia shoots are very long after wintering, when the room is too warm and there is insufficient lighting. Add lighting, reduce the temperature in the room will help periodic spraying of air, wet cleaning. Strong stretching of the shoots can also be in low light, plus overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Add light, do not feed with nitrogen fertilizers. Gloxinia can stretch due to varietal characteristics, some varieties of gloxinia are prone to stretching shoots. It is advisable to cut the elongated shoot. The tuber will give a new shoot. A pruned shoot can be rooted, and it will also have time to bloom. If the elongated shoot is left, then it will most likely fall and take root. It will also receive nutrition from its newly formed roots, and in addition, pull nutrition from the tuber. A new shoot may grow on the tuber, but it will be weak, will not bloom, and the tuber will become weakened and may not overwinter. 4. Gloxinia grows very poorly, her flowers curl. If the gloxinia is too slow growing, or the flowers of the gloxinia curl, perhaps the wintering of the plant was too cold, or the temperature in the room where the gloxinia grows is too low, or drafts. Perhaps the land is very poor, there is not enough food. Carry out pest control. They can also inhibit the growth of gloxinia. 5. Gloxinia leaves turned yellow Gloxinia leaves turn yellow with excessive watering. If the plant is flooded, then it is immediately noticeable by the leaves. It may happen that the tuber began to rot. Urgently remove the gloxinia tuber, inspect for rot, treat with phytosporin or other drugs, replace the ground. Gloxinia leaves may turn yellow from a lack of nitrogen. In general, fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers is recommended only at the beginning of the growing season, when the stem begins to grow. Subsequently, top dressing is best done with fertilizers in which the content of phosphorus and potassium far exceeds the nitrogen content. Remember that overfeeding with nitrogen can lead to gloxinia tuber rot. Gloxinia leaf chlorosis. The cause of chlorosis can be too hard water. Water for watering gloxinia should be used separated, warm. Soften it with a drop of vinegar or lemon juice. The cause of chlorosis can be reduced soil acidity or increased ash content. Change the soil. 6. Gloxinia leaves discolored If gloxinia leaves begin to discolor, then magnesium starvation is evident. In this case, liquid top dressing will help, in which all trace elements have already been added. 7. Spots appeared on gloxinia leaves Spots on gloxinia leaves may appear from too bright lighting. Shade the gloxinia, otherwise there will be a sunburn. Spots on gloxinia leaves can appear from excessive watering, as well as if you water too cold. Gloxinia leaf spot can cause drafts. Small spots on gloxinia leaves may indicate the presence of pests on the plant. Insecticide treatments are needed. In addition, gloxinia can be affected by various viral diseases, for example, tomato ring spot virus. 8. Gloxinia leaves curl Curling of gloxinia leaves is possible if the room is too dry and hot. However, even with too much humidity, excessive waterlogging, gloxinia leaves also curl, bend, short pedicels form, or the formation of deformed flowers is observed. Adjust the watering of gloxinia. Treat gloxinia with actellik or fitoverm from spider mites. Twisting gloxinia leaves can be from an overdose of potash fertilizers. 9. Gloxinia leaves turned red Redness of gloxinia leaves begins with a lack of phosphorus. Starvation with phosphorus leads to the fact that gloxinia generally ceases to bloom. To fix this problem, feed gloxinia with superphosphate or other fertilizer that contains more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. For example, diammophoska fertilizer or liquid top dressing containing a set of additional trace elements is suitable for this. 10. In gloxinia, the lower leaves dry In gloxinia, the lower leaves dry with insufficient air humidity, or vice versa, overflow. Possibly an infection. Treat with phytosporin or another fungicide. 11. Gloxinia does not bloom Gloxinia does not bloom due to overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen only stimulates the growth of greenery, but slows down flowering. Insufficient lighting, low ambient temperature, low humidity or insufficient watering can affect the delay in flowering. Incorrect or too short wintering can also affect flowering, as a result of which the tuber did not have time to prepare for the next season. In order for gloxinia to bloom well next season, it needs a dormant period of four months. In order for gloxinia to fully bloom, it just needs good lighting. Gloxinia love the light! From the moment they wake up, immediately put pots with gloxinia tubers in places where there is a lot of light, or organize additional lighting, otherwise the buds may not be laid at all, and if they are, there may be few of them, or the flowers may not be fully formed, turn out to be a barren flower , or not the end of the reveal. The size of the pot also plays an important role. For growing gloxinia, it is better to choose a small, rather low and wide pot than a deep one. In a large pot, gloxinia will grow a tuber for a long time to the detriment of flowering. For an adult gloxinia tuber, the pot should be about 9-12 cm in diameter. And after active growth begins in gloxinia, it is necessary to carry out fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. In addition to the pot, gloxinia annually needs a transplant and new fertile land. You can make an earthen mixture for gloxinia yourself: humus, coniferous earth, leaf earth, sand, perlite or hydrogel, peat. But before use, it must be calcined for pests and pathogens. Sprinkle the soil on a tray and bake it in the oven for 20-30 minutes. If it is not possible to make your own earthen mixture, then you will have to use the store, but fertilize more often. 12. Petioles of gloxinia leaves rot, buds rot In gloxinia, petioles of leaves rot, buds rot due to excessive waterlogging, too acidic soil pH, as well as an excess amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Change soil, adjust watering. In order not to overdo it with nitrogen fertilizers, use only complex fertilizers, which, in addition to nitrogen, include both phosphorus and potassium. Additionally, carry out two or three treatments with phytosporin, Maxim or another fungicide to keep the gloxinia tuber from rotting. 13. Gloxinia's buds turn black and die If gloxinia's buds turn black and die, then, most likely, the wintering was too cold, the soil is too poor and there is not enough food, strong overflow. Usually, flowering problems are solved by fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizers and additional lighting. Treat with fungicides. If the problem is not corrected, then most likely there are problems with the tuber: it began to disappear. 14. At gloxinia, a barren flower is formed. First, buds are laid on gloxinia, as usual, sepals open, and inside instead of a bud there is a green pea, a barren flower. After some time, the pedicel, on which this underdeveloped bud grew, turns brown. Perhaps the gloxinia tuber was stored at too cold a temperature. Cut off this pedicel, and wait for the next peduncles. After a while, see how new buds open, perhaps everything will return to normal without additional intervention. Try a few more sprays of epin to help the plant relieve stress and help the formation of normal buds. 15. Gloxinia's buds do not fully open Gloxinia's buds do not fully open, and then turn brown and become soft. This is quite possible if there are too many buds on the gloxinia, and she does not have enough top dressing, she is simply not able to overpower the flowering. In this way, gloxinia itself regulates its flowering. This may be a varietal feature. It is possible that she bloomed too early or late, when the daylight hours are short and she simply does not have enough light. Usually, this occurs during the off-season. Under-opening of buds may be the result of an attack by a spider mite or thrips. Apply insecticide treatments. 16. Gloxinia buds dry Gloxinia buds dry due to too dry air, high air temperature. If the summer is very hot, spray gloxinia. Hang a damp sheet over the window. Try feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. 17. Gloxinia began to wither all the leaves. If the leaves of gloxinia began to wither in the fall, this means that gloxinia is preparing for wintering. Reduce watering to a minimum. Wait for the gloxinia to completely wither, cut off the top of the shoots, leave only a small stump and send the gloxinia tuber for the winter. It can be in the same pot, it can be in a plastic bag, as was described in problem 1. If the leaves of gloxinia began to wither during the growing season, then most likely there are problems with the tuber. From too much waterlogging, he rotted. Urgently dig, cut off the affected leaves, treat the tuber with fungicides and plant in fresh soil. 18. How to make a gloxinia bloom again If your gloxinia has faded and no longer forms flower stalks, and you want to make the gloxinia bloom again, cut it back to 2-3 pairs of leaves. In 1.5-2 months, the gloxinia will grow a new stem, and your favorite gloxinia will bloom again. Re-flowering can be stimulated by fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Since childhood, I love synningia. But all my attempts to breed these wonderful flowers for some reason end in complete failure: they either do not wake up or die immediately after hibernation. Tell us how you still need to care for gloxinia so that it pleases with its lovely flowers every year.

Irina (Pskov)

• Nature has programmed the plant for a time of rest and active growth. It wakes up in early spring, and goes into hibernation in autumn (October-November). The first rule in caring for a plant is not to disturb its biorhythms.
• A signal of impending hibernation is the cessation of growth, wilting of the leaves, this usually occurs in October-November. At the end of summer, stop feeding the plants, gradually reduce watering.
• All wilted leaves are removed from the sleeping plant, the pot is wrapped in paper and cleaned in a dark, cool place (+ 10-15 ° C). You can put the pot on the barrel.
• Some flower growers recommend covering the flowerpot with polyethylene, but often this content is the cause of mold and tuber rot.
• Periodically check how your velvet beauty winters. If you see that during the winter the earthen ball is very dry, then it can be slightly moistened (no more than once a month).
• The dormant period for synningia is 3 months. Reducing the duration of sleep is fraught with the awakening of a weakened plant. This is especially dangerous for young nodules, which have a limited supply of vitality. As a rule, "larks" die. Most often, early rise occurs in tubers that overwinter in warm rooms.
• It is important not to miss the moment of awakening, noticing that your flower is ready to "conquer the world", get it out of the "bear corner".
• The awakened tuber is taken out, cleaned of dead roots and soaked in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for several minutes. Then they are dried and planted.
• Spring has come, and your flower is still sleeping, you can wake it up. You can do this in two ways:

1. remove the tuber, put it in a plastic bag with holes for air. Place the package itself somewhere in a bright corner;
2. move the pot from a cool place to a warmer, but darker room. After a while, the nodule will wake up, letting out tender shoots.

• If an adult gloxinia marked its awakening with a long (1.5 cm) thin shoot, then it can be pinched. Since the high shoot further forms an ugly elongated outlet. But in young plants, try not to damage the shoots during transplantation.
• A pot for a nodule is selected small; placing a tuber in a large container can lead to rotting of the storage organ.
• The soil must be water and breathable. For example, a flower feels good in a mixture of leafy soil, peat and sand (4:1:1). Good drainage is required. We don’t dig the tubers much, we practically place them flush with the ground.
• At first, water sparingly, to the edge of the pot. The root system is not yet developed in the plant, the abundance of moisture is fraught with the onset of decay.
• The most optimal temperature regime during the active growth of synningia is + 25 ° C, a higher temperature can cause overheating of the greenfinch, the "bells" will stop growing, and the buds can drop.
• It is desirable to humidify the air, but try not to let drops of water fall on pubescent leaves and buds.
• During the period of active growth, the plant is watered abundantly, it is advisable to pour water into the pan. The remaining liquid is drained after 15-20 minutes, the pan is thoroughly wiped to avoid again rotting of the tuber.
• Feed during April-August. The frequency of fertilization is once every two weeks.
• If the synningia does not bloom for a long time, apparently, you overdid it with nitrogen fertilizing. But do not lean on phosphoric, you can get early, but short-term flowering.
• It is undesirable to mix fungicides and dressings.
• To form a beautiful rosette, periodically turn the pot in different directions to the light.
• The plant loves bright light, but avoid placing it in direct sunlight.
• During the summer season, synningia blooms twice. Repeat blooms tend to be more modest, with smaller buds and a lighter color. After the first flowering in May-June, the stem can be cut off, leaving only a few lower leaves. Soon stepchildren will hatch in the sinuses. Leave only large shoots, and cut off small ones. After a month, the shoots will be generous with bells.
• By the way, cut sprouts take root well.

When growing varietal gloxinia, you have to deal with different planting material. In my collection, a new variety, as a rule, appears as an unrooted leaf cutting.

A few years ago, I rooted the resulting leaf and waited a long time for the appearance of children. This could take anywhere from a few months to a year. In addition, very often the leaf dried up, and since the tuber did not have a sprout, I put it away for storage. However, not all nodules survived it safely, because they were small and were not always stored correctly.

Now I have developed a small technology that allows you to germinate even the smallest (for example, 5 mm) gloxinia nodules, regardless of the season, and achieve flowering 3-4 months after the sprout appears.

HOW TO WAKE GLOXINIA TUBE?

For example, I took rooted leaves that were planted about 3 months ago. One leaf is still absolutely healthy and strong (it can be rooted again), the second one has begun to rot in the greenhouse, so it will not be possible to use it for re-rooting.

First stage: Carefully break off the tuber from the leaf. It is quite possible to do this with your hands, for those who are not confident in their abilities, you can use a sharp knife.

Second stage: Thoroughly wash the tubers from the remnants of the soil under warm running water. We observe the following picture: two young nodules about 2 cm and 1 cm in diameter, without signs of growth.

The third stage: We prepare a small new glass (50 or 100 ml) and pour the coconut substrate there, lightly (! Just lightly so that the substrate is only slightly wet), place the nodule on top and press it a little.

Fourth stage: We place a glass with a nodule in an airtight greenhouse. I am using a zippack. It must be brand new to prevent possible fungal diseases.

Fifth stage: We put on germination under fluorescent lamps, the distance from the top of the greenhouse to the lamps is 10-20 cm. After a week, the nodules must be checked: if there is no condensation in the greenhouse, it is necessary to slightly moisten the coconut substrate. Airing or watering nodules is not required.

As a rule, after 2-3 weeks, good strong young leaves appear from the tuber, which needs to be grown for another 1-2 weeks, maybe a little more. This will depend on the variety and size of the nodule.

THE PRINCIPAL ADVANTAGES OF THIS GROWTH METHOD:

- You can quickly get flowering plants
- The safety of the variety increases, because. there is no need to "lay" the nodule to rest when it is still too small.

WHAT YOU NEED TO REMEMBER FOR EVERYTHING TO GO WELL:

- You can only use new cups and greenhouses, because. the dormant tuber is easily susceptible to fungal diseases. Clean dishes avoid them
- Heat and light for germination. Fluorescent lamps give the perfect combination of heat and light, if you only have a window sill at your disposal, nodule germination can only be done in the spring-summer season. At the same time, it is necessary to provide soft diffused light (not direct sunlight) and heat.
- Neutral substrate for germination. I use coke, vermiculite and sphagnum moss are also fine. But I think coconut is preferable, because. it is optimal in terms of moisture retention.

Gloxinia is an indoor flowering tuberous plant with a pronounced dormant period.

The rest period of gloxinia lasts from one to five months, approximately from October to February-March. The terms of winter rest depend on the storage temperature and on the varietal characteristics of gloxinia. At a storage temperature above +15 degrees, gloxinia will wake up much faster than at a storage temperature of +12 to +15.

Gloxinia do not wake up at the same time, most of my tubers release young sprouts in February-March, and some can sleep until May. If the tuber did not sprout in May, it can be awakened. To do this, the pot in which the tuber was stored in the winter should be placed in a warm, lit place, watered with soil. It is very important not to fill the tuber during this period, because. in very wet soil, the tuber may rot. You can only slightly moisten the soil along the edge of the pot, avoiding water on the tuber. After watering, cover the pot with a transparent bag. If the tuber is healthy, then it usually germinates within 10-15 days.

You can wake up gloxinia tubers in another way:

Place the sleeping tuber in a transparent bag with a small amount of moist soil. Place the bag in a lighted place. After a while, the tuber releases young sprouts.

Awakened tubers must be transplanted into fresh nutrient soil.
The soil should be light, loose, breathable. I usually plant gloxinia tubers in purchased peat with the addition of perlite and vermiculite.

The tuber should not be deepened by more than 1 cm, it can only be lightly sprinkled with earth. It is not necessary to cover the young sprout with soil, it should remain on the surface.

At the beginning of growth, the plant is watered very sparingly, avoiding waterlogging of the soil. Watering is carried out along the edge of the pot, avoiding water on the tuber.

Sometimes on adult tubers during transplantation, small daughter nodules can be found. They can be carefully separated and planted in small cups. Thus, you can get a little baby that will bloom in the first year of life.

Choosing a pot for a gloxinia tuber.

The size of the pot mainly depends on the size of the gloxinia tuber. I plant small nodules about 1-2 cm in size in 100-gram plastic cups, for a medium tuber 3-4 cm in size, a 7-9 cm pot is suitable, and I plant adult tubers in pots whose diameter is 3-4 cm larger than the size of the tuber .