Fertilizing grapes root and foliar - how and with what to fertilize? What fertilize grapes in July. Video: growing grapes in northern latitudes

Top dressing of grapes is a multi-stage process, covering the entire vegetative period of the vine. It is important to know how to feed the grapes, doses and timing. There are two types of feeding grapes: root andfoliar.

Two weeks before flowering root dressing grapes are a must. With the correct implementation of this agrotechnical measure, the shedding of ovaries from the bushes is significantly reduced. 10 days after flowering carry out another top dressing.

The ripening of the grapes should be accompanied by another nutrition and already after harvest the last dressing is done to increase the frost resistance of the vine. Feeding is alternated with watering.

Fertilization technology for grapes

Root compositions must be placed in the ground deep digging method: the root system of the grape bush is located at a depth of up to 35 cm. The use of liquid dressings is effective.

Types of fertilizers

Manure is considered the leader in popularity. Its advantages:

• Complete composition.
• Helps loosen the soil.
• Forms humus.
• Useful elements are absorbed in stages over 4 years as manure decomposes in the soil.

Fertilizing grapes with organic matter

Enrich the earth with natural fertilizer in early autumn period, mixing with mineral compositions. Component ratio:

• Manure - 5 kg;
• Superphosphate - 100 g;
• Ash - 100 g;
• Ammonium sulphate - 50 g per 1 m 2.

For a better distribution of manure after its application, it is necessary dig up the soil. This method of fertilizing grapes is used once for 3 years. Straw has the highest value.horse dung.

Moreover, an exceptionally fresh composition is needed, since beetle larvae are always present in greenhouse manure, which can damage root system bushes.

Fertilizer manure pits

They are formed in the spring. A hole is dug at an equal distance between the bushes at a depth of 35 cm wide with a shovel. AT

the resulting niche is placed with a manure composition based on 1 part superphosphate and 10 parts fresh manure. The mixture should be buried and lightly tamped.

slurry

Apply fresh cow dung. Half a kilogram of manure is used for a soil area of ​​1 m2. Manure must first be fermented. To do this, it is placed in barrels, cemented pits in a diluted form (2 parts of water to 1 part of manure).

Before ripening, the fertilizer should be in a niche with closed lid. The resulting slurry is diluted with water at the rate of 1 part of manure to 20 parts of water.

Under the bushes pour ½ buckets per square meter area. Completes the process of watering the fertilized vineyard.

Calculation of the amount of fertilizer for feeding grapes

bird droppings

It is characterized by the richest composition, but requires careful use. Overuse can "burn" the soil. The composition is prepared in the following way: litter is diluted with water at the rate of 2 parts of water per part of the litter and defended for 14 days. Then 100 g of slurry is diluted in a bucket and poured under bushes per 1 m2.

The treated areas are watered. Application bird droppings should not exceed 50 g of dry matter per square meter.

Top dressing of grapes with nitrogen fertilizers

Their role is to ensure the maximum nitrogen supply of plants from the moment of root absorption of the composition from the soil.

Saltpeter or ammonium sulphate used in the calculation of 50 g of fertilizer per square meter. Autumn rains and winter snows distribute the composition evenly to the root areas of the vineyard.

Solution preparation

The first feeding of a square meter of vineyard will require 100 g of superphosphate with 50 g of saltpeter. Superphosphate in a container is poured with water in the evening.

In the second and third feeding, saltpeter is replaced by ash (50 g of woody substance per m2). Completes the process of watering the vines.

How to water grapes

Before you feed the grapes, it must be well watered. Fifteen-centimeter longitudinal grooves are dug. Their width is about 40 cm.

The recesses are filled with water (10-15 buckets for a bush). After the liquid has been absorbed, the ditches are filled with earth and loosened with a rake.

Periodicity: before flowering and during maturation bunches. Ideal Conditions: cloudy weather or morning dew (nutrient substances are absorbed more efficiently). Grape leaves are sprayed with a superphosphate solution enriched with trace elements.

• Water - 10 liters;
• Superphosphate - 50g;
• Manganese 0 2g;
• Acidified iron - 5g;
• Sulfuric zinc - 1g;
• Bura - 2g.

Superphosphate is infused in water for a day, stirring occasionally. The solution is poured out, leaving a precipitate in the container. The remaining ingredients are placed in the liquid. Grape leaves are sprayed with it, observing the conditions:

• avoid repeated contact with the solution in one area;
• direct the solution to the underside of the leaves (nutrition is better absorbed).

The use of nitrogen compounds for surface feeding of grapes is unacceptable: nitrogen can easily burn the leaves.

If the grower adheres to all the rules of agricultural technology and knows how and with what, in the fall he is guaranteed a rich harvest.

Grapes are a difficult culture for a novice winegrower. The main maintenance work is carried out not only in spring and autumn. Grapes require constant attention in the summer, they constantly need an eye and an eye, because he strives to release new shoots. It is worth gaping, and instead of a bush with clusters, a jungle of shoots quickly forms.

Therefore, in July there will be enough fuss with the bushes. First of all, you need to keep an eye on the stepsons all the time, which at this time are very actively growing from the axils of the leaves. Ruthlessly pluck them, leaving one or two leaves. It is also necessary to remove all newly formed shoots at this time.

In July, the bushes have already faded, fruits are tied on them and growing. We'll have to keep an eye on the brushes with berries. Here the task of the vinedresser is to obtain good harvest healthy, large and sweet berries. Without care, the berries can turn out small and sour. To do this, do the following.

Remove immediately, as soon as they form, brushes with a mustache (there are such), because there will be little sense from them.

Leave one of the strongest brushes on each shoot, remove weak brushes.

Keep in mind that each variety is able to endure a certain berry load on the bush (that's why you need to study the characteristics of your varieties!). We'll have to leave as many brushes on the bush as it can feed. If the brushes are too large, even parts of them have to be pinched off so that the bush is not overloaded with crops.

You will have to remove some of the leaves that shade the clusters - this is closer to the time the berries ripen. It is desirable that the bunches be lit by the sun: then the berries will be sweeter and ripen earlier.

Be sure to pinch the tops of the fruit-bearing shoots on the 8th leaf from the bunch on female varieties, and on the 4-5th leaf on bisexual ones. This stimulates the pouring of berries and removes the thickening of the bush. (In a bisexual grape, the stamens are straightened up, in a female they are small and bent down - you need to remember this in order to know what type of bush you have.) In general, grapes are pinched when the tops of the shoot are bent, i.e. escape grows. Some growers believe that it is necessary to pinch non-growing shoots.

When the berries reach the size of a pea, it becomes clear how successful the pollination was. At this time, you need to hurry to remove poorly pollinated brushes so that the plant does not waste energy on growing defective brushes. On some varieties, on the contrary, pollination was successful, and the berries in the brush are too dense, preventing each other from growing fully. You will have to take scissors and cut off excess berries to thin out the brush so that the remaining berries are well ventilated and do not get sick with rot. The work is unpleasant, but the berries will grow larger.

During the pouring of berries, the rapid growth of greenery continues. Here all the time you need to remove everything superfluous. To find these extra shoots, growing shoots are distributed along the trellis at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. Everything that does not fit is ruthlessly removed. Weak shoots are also removed.

Shoots are especially nimble, growing with high speed, you have to slow down, pinching the tops of their heads. The remaining useful shoots must be tied up as they grow, because they are very brittle.

In general, shoots left for replacement may not be pinched: such shoots, as experience shows, ripen better, although they grow several meters in height. Of course, not the entire shoot ripens, but only its lower part, which we will leave for the winter. Many gardeners who grow grapes in greenhouses still pinch these shoots, leaving 1.5-2.5 m in length. It is believed that in this case the bush will have more strength for the harvest. And such shoots will take up less space in the greenhouse.

Watering and fertilizing bushes in July are required. Bushes during the pouring of berries require a lot of nutrition, and they need to be helped with top dressing. After flowering, they are fed with nitrophoska - 2 tbsp. spoons in a bucket of water. When the berries reach the size of peas, they feed them with what they can. Basically, these are phosphorus-potassium supplements. Often use the usual azofoska - 2 tbsp. spoons in a bucket of water. Feed after watering. Many praise top dressing with ashes, from which the berries become sweeter: 1 liter of ash is poured with water, insisted for 2 days, 1 liter of infusion is used for top dressing in a bucket of water. Or 2 liters of ash is insisted in 8 liters of water for a day, stirring, allowed to settle, filtered and used as follows: for root dressings - 1 liter per 10 liters of water, for foliar dressings - 0.5 liters per 10 liters of water. Such top dressing with ash accelerates the ripening of grapes. They are usually applied when the berries begin to ripen.

Often there is enough nutrition in the soil, but in the depths its temperature is low, and it is difficult for the plant to extract food from there. Therefore, in the cold summer, foliar top dressing is very useful. Here they give top dressing, both with complete mineral fertilizer and microelements.

It would seem that it is enough to feed the grape bushes several times during the season with complex fertilizers, and the plants will come to life again. However, in grapes, the need for different nutrients varies depending on the growing season. And if you want to succeed in viticulture, you should definitely figure out how certain microelements affect grapes, at what time they are especially needed for plants, and how they should be applied to the soil.

Nutrients needed by grapes:

• Nitrogen. Responsible for the growth of green mass (leaves and shoots), therefore, the main part of nitrogen fertilizers is applied in the spring, at the very beginning of the grape growing season. In summer, the need for nitrogen decreases, but from August, nitrogen fertilizers become harmful to vines, since untimely rapid growth of greenery will prevent the ripening of wood. Contribute in the form of urea or ammonium nitrate.
• Phosphorus. Most of all, the vineyard needs at the very beginning of flowering: thanks to phosphorus top dressing (superphosphate), inflorescences develop better, berries are tied and clusters ripen.
• Potassium. Closer to autumn, it is very useful to feed the vineyard with potassium chloride, as it accelerates ripening. vines and fruits, and also well prepares plants for winter.
• Copper. Helps to increase frost and drought resistance of shoots, enhances their growth.
• Bor. Application boric acid into the soil helps to increase the sugar content of grapes and accelerate their ripening. In addition, boron stimulates the germination of pollen.
• Zinc. Thanks to this trace element, the yield of grapes increases markedly.

Calcium, magnesium, sulfur and iron are also useful for grapes, but usually these elements are found in sufficient quantities in the ground. Additionally, it is not necessary to feed the vineyard with them.

Mineral fertilizers and organics - how to fertilize grapes?

You can feed the grapes with one-component mineral fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, potassium salt, potassium chloride, superphosphate, etc.), fertilizers containing two or three elements (nitrophoska, ammophos), or complex (Kemira, Florovit, Mortar, Novofert, Aquarin).

But mineral fertilizers alone will not be enough: grapes need manure to fully utilize the incoming nutrients. The addition of manure improves the aeration and water permeability of the soil, and also stimulates the development of microorganisms in the soil that grape roots need for the best absorption of trace elements. In addition, rotted manure provides the vineyard with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other beneficial substances.

Instead of manure, you can use compost as an effective and affordable remedy for any gardener. Food waste, haulm, grass clippings, sawdust, bird droppings and pet manure, wood ash, chopped branches and other organic waste are suitable for making compost. Ready-made compost is rich in useful substances no less than manure.

Another valuable organic fertilizer is bird droppings. It also contains the most important elements for grapes in a highly digestible form. A week and a half before use, bird droppings are diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 4, and before direct application to the ground, an infusion is made, diluted with water another 10 times. One vine bush consumes half a liter of infusion.

Well, instead of potassium chloride, which can harm the vineyard due to the high content of chlorine, it is better to use ash. It will provide grape bushes with the intake of not only potassium, but also phosphorus. The most useful is sunflower husk ash.

Top dressing of grapes - terms and methods of application

To feed the root system of grapes, you should dig grooves about 40 cm deep around each bush at a distance of at least 50 cm from the trunk. Through such grooves, the main roots of plants absorb nutrients much more efficiently, especially if you combine fertilizing with watering the grapes.

When to Fertilize:

• in the spring, before opening the bushes after wintering, superphosphate (20 g), ammonium nitrate (10 g) and potassium salt (5 g) are dissolved in 10 liters of water - this portion is enough to water one grape bush;
• a couple of weeks before the grapes begin to bloom, they are fed with the same aqueous solution;
• before the grapes ripen, the land in the vineyard is fertilized with superphosphate and potash fertilizers (nitrogen is not applied);
• after harvesting, the grapes are fed with potash fertilizers to increase the winter hardiness of plants.

During spring feeding, slurry can be used instead of mineral fertilizers: 1 kg of solution is consumed per square meter of planting.

Once every three years in autumn months the vineyard should be fertilized with manure with the addition of ash, superphosphate and ammonium sulphate. Fertilizer is distributed over the surface of the earth, after which a deep digging is done. If, on a plot of soil of a sandy loam type, it is worth fertilizing for digging in a year, then on sandy ground- annually.

Foliar top dressing of grapes for the best harvest

Through the leaves of grapes, useful substances dissolved in water are remarkably absorbed. Therefore, in addition to the usual root top dressing, it is also desirable to carry out foliar top dressing - on the leaves. This will help the plants develop better, bring maximum yield and tolerate winter frosts well.

Regardless of the fertilization of the root system, the grape foliage is sprayed for the first time with a solution of trace elements before the flowers appear to prevent them from shedding and to increase the ovaries, the second time after flowering, and the third time when the grapes ripen. With the last two sprays, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded from the top dressing.

For foliar dressings you can use solutions of micro- or macrofertilizers, which are easy to find on sale in large assortment. An aqueous infusion of ash mixed with a fermented herbal infusion of herbs is also suitable.

Foliar spraying should be carried out on windless days in the morning or evening, or during the daytime in cloudy weather, so that the plants do not get burned under the sun, since the solution remains on the leaves in the form of small droplets. For the best absorption of trace elements, you can add 3 tbsp to the nutrient solution. Sahara.

Donetsk resident Vladimir Norkin embeds ammonium nitrate in the ground: “Feeding must be combined with loosening!”

He will streamline the work in the garden, minimizing the cost of time, effort and money.

Fruit trees

If the garden is not irrigated, then it will be enough autumn feeding organic matter and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. In early spring contribute 15-20 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 sq. m. After the ovaries fall off, nitrogen fertilizing is repeated, increasing the dose to 20-25 g. Regular watering flushes out mobile nitrogen from the soil, adding two or three more fertilizing during the growth period.

1. In April, during bud break: sprinkle 10-15 g of urea or 15-20 g of ammonium nitrate per square meter trunk circle, limited by the diameter of the crown, close it with a rake.

Feeding is good with bird droppings (1:20) - 2 liters per square meter of the trunk circle, or with a solution of slurry (1:5) - 5 buckets are enough for a 7-year-old tree.

2. Early or mid-May, before flowering: similar top dressing.

You can fertilize the garden and leaf by 1-3% solution of urea or ammonium nitrate (10-30 g per 10 liters of water), as well as stimulants - Epin or Zircon.

3. Immediately after flowering: spray with Bud, Ovary or Plantafol.

4. In mid-June, after dropping the excess ovary: repeat feeding with urea or scatter 10 g of ammonium nitrate per square, embedding it in the soil. If the yield is high, after 20 days fertilize again, but with nitrophosphate (25-30 g per sq. M) or nitroammophos (20-50 g per sq. M), with the addition of potassium chloride or sulfate potassium (10 g per sq. M ).

You can apply foliar top dressing - spraying on the leaf (20-30 g of urea per 10 liters of water) or top dressing under the root with mullein infusion (1: 4). Before applying to the soil, add 10-15 g of superphosphate to it per 10 liters of solution, the application rate is a bucket of fertilizer per running meter.

5. In July - top dressing of trees with a small increase or a strong crop load: for 10 liters of water - 25-30 g of ammonium nitrate, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium salt. Salt can be replaced with 100-150 g of wood ash.

In mid-July, nitrogen is removed from the "diet" of trees, otherwise the growth of shoots will continue, and by winter they will not have time to ripen.

6. In September - mid-October, for digging: give phosphorus-potassium fertilizers for all trees from the age of four - 25-35 g of superphosphate, 18-25 g of potassium chloride or potassium sulfate per square meter. Under autumn digging humus can be applied to the trunk circle every three years - half a bucket per 1 sq. m area. Such a mixture also works - half a bucket of humus or compost, 50 g of superphosphate, 35 g of potassium sulfate per 1 sq. m.

So that the fertilizer does not wash away, drill 6-12 holes around the perimeter of the crown, 35-40 cm deep, feed, fill well with water and cover with earth. This “targeted delivery” will force the roots to go deeper in search of food and prevent them from freezing in the future.

Instead of chemistry

Dung slurry. Fill the barrel halfway with manure, sprinkling each 20 cm layer with ash, fill it with water and infuse for 10 days, stirring occasionally. Dilute 1:10 before use so as not to burn the roots.

Mullein. Fill the barrel with fresh manure to 1/3 or 1/4 of the volume, fill it to the top with water, mix and let it brew for 10 days.

« Green tea» for plants. Fill the barrel 1/3 full with weeds, top up with water and let it ferment. And everything - universal fertilizer ready, it remains to dilute 1:5 for root irrigation or 1:10 for foliar treatment.

Ash. Mix 100 g of fertilizer with 10 liters of water. Speed ​​is important here: the solution must be immediately poured under the root, otherwise phosphorus will precipitate and become inaccessible to plants. Mixing ash with mullein infusion will also end in failure: nitrogen will evaporate from the fertilizer.

Vineyard

Up to four years, the seedling does not need phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (enough refueling landing pit). Therefore, young animals should be fed in spring with solutions of slurry or litter, ammonium nitrate (10 g per 10 l of water), urea (5-6 g per 10 l of water) in half - 1 bucket per plant (depending on age). An adult vineyard needs basic autumn fertilizer with humus every three years (9-10 kg per square of plantings).

1. In early spring: if you did not have time to feed the plants with organic matter, add 50 g of ammonium nitrate, 80-100 g of ash and 100-120 g of superphosphate per 1 sq. m.

2. May 5-15 (before flowering): based on 1 square. m - 40 g of bird droppings, 40 g of ash, dilute in a bucket of water, water under the root. And also - 10 g of potassium salt, 25 g of superphosphate and 15 g of ammonium nitrate for each bush.

5. Autumn fertilizer: once every three years: 9-10 kg of manure or humus, or a mixture of 5 kg of humus, 100 g of superphosphate, 100 g of ash and 50 g of ammonium sulfate (dose per 1 sq. M).

Once every two or three years, the soil is limed, adding up to 150 g of lime under each bush. In autumn, it is deepened by 20-25 cm, and when applied in spring - no more than 5-7 cm.

berries

Shrubs are responsive to fertilization: currants "love" phosphorus, and gooseberries "prefer" potash. For a balanced diet, choose foliar top dressing with microelements in the flowering and green ovary phase (Plantafol, Mortar, Pure Leaf fertilizer). This will increase the resistance of plants to fungal diseases.

1. Early spring one-time application of nitrogen: 20-30 g of ammonium nitrate or 15-20 g of urea per 1 sq. m embed in the soil.

2. In the first half of June (in years with a large harvest): top dressing nitrogen fertilizers repeat. You can feed with solutions of mullein or litter.

3. In autumn, for digging: once every three years, humus is added at 6-8 kg per 1 sq. m, annually on currants - 20-25 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium salt or nitrate per 1 sq. m, under the gooseberry - 15-20 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g potash fertilizers(better - potassium sulfate). work and complex fertilizers- nitroammophoska or ammophoska (15-20 g per 1 sq. m.). Also, ash can be added for digging - 2-3 cups per bush.

"Give the plants a boost!"

Director of the nursery "Agrosaphenets" (village Golubivka, Artyomovsky district) Roman Tonu considers the best fertilizer humus.

If you haven't made it since the fall, it's not too late! - encourages the specialist. - A bucket per square meter of the trunk circle is quite enough. They can simply mulch the soil, with rain nutrients sure to get to the roots. Humus can be replaced with compost, ideal for spring application, or peat. Effective and top dressing wood ash- two or three glasses for each square. But with mineral fertilizers, you need to be more careful: they oversaturate the soil solution, making it difficult to absorb and converting the nutrients into a form inaccessible to plants. Therefore, when top dressing with ammonium nitrate or nitroammophos main principle- "Do no harm!". Better to underfeed the plants. The optimal ratio is 12-15 g of fertilizer per square meter.

Remember that nitrogen compounds acidify the soil, so if you are used to feeding a lot and often, they must be combined with lime (70-80 g for every 100 g of top dressing).

Donetsk resident Lyudmila Pashkovskaya is not indifferent to grapes: there are already 16 varieties on her plot, and the collection is constantly replenished. Now she advises not to relax and watch the plants to prevent the appearance of a tick.

Fruitful shoots should be shortened, leaving areas with five leaves - this will direct the energy of the plant to the ripening of berries. Moreover, this number of leaves is quite enough to “feed” a bunch. Some of my varieties suffered from frost, then from heat - this was the cause of the pea. In such brushes, you need to remove small underdeveloped berries, carefully plucking them with tweezers.

I advise novice growers to buy complex-resistant varieties so as not to waste energy on the endless struggle for survival of those that have good taste, but are defenseless against pests and low temperatures. For example, from pink varieties I grow Victoria and Pink Flamingo.

First, despite the amazing taste qualities and good yields, turned out to be very vulnerable to mites. Not very resistant to pests and Kesha. Of those varieties that are able to withstand the problem, I would recommend Laura, Codreanca, Moldova - I have had them for more than a year. I also love Captive - very reliable, frost-resistant. It does not need to be covered for the winter and sprayed, it is practically not affected by a tick.

How to defeat a tick

Appeals to the editorial office about grapes literally eaten by a tick have become more frequent. To help cope with this scourge, we turned for advice to Alexander Andreichenko, agronomist of PE "Leader" (TM "Zeleny Svit"):

It is easier to overcome the pest on initial stage its development, rather than waiting for it to multiply in incredible numbers. To do this, I offer you two options for mixtures:

1. Confidor (1 g) + Apollo (4 ml) per 10 liters of water.

2. Actellik (20 ml) for 8-10 liters of water. The consumption of the working solution is from 2 to 5 liters per plant (depending on the size, leaf surface area and pest infestation). Multiplicity of treatments - two to three times in two weeks.

Grapes in July require even more care than at other times of the year. In this month, there is an intensive growth of berries on the vine and the maximum consumption of moisture and nutrients by it. Therefore, it is important to support optimal humidity, feed the plants and make sure that they do not get sick. Let's discuss what kind of grape care work should be done in July.

Irrigation Features

With a lack of moisture, the grapes grow poorly, give small berries and poor yields. The culture normally perceives air drought, but hardly survives ground water shortage. So that the plants do not suffer from the July heat, they are watered with warm well or rain water. It is impossible to fill the plantation with cold water from the tap. Pre-liquid must be defended for 1 - 2 days. Young bushes are useful to water hot water(such that the human hand can withstand).

In July, grapes are watered in different ways:

1. superficial;
2. Subsoil;
3. Aerosol;
4. sprinkling;
5. By the principle of drip irrigation.

The most common method of watering a vineyard among summer residents is surface, in which water enters the bushes through grooves along the rows or around. Watering is combined with top dressing, using a complete mineral complex or organic matter containing phosphorus and potassium. Feeding is applied before the berries ripen.

The ground under the bushes is kept clean and weeds are pulled out in a timely manner. AT hot weather it is advisable not to be lazy and loosen the soil, since the effectiveness of two weeds is equal to one rain.

If the thermometer shows a heat of more than 30 ° C, it is necessary to arrange sprinkling to increase the humidity of the air. The procedure will facilitate the breathing process for plants and help to endure drought. Watering a particular variety is stopped when less than 3 weeks remain before the crop ripens.

How to properly water grape bushes in July, says a specialist in the video.

What fertilizes grapes in July

Experienced summer residents have been feeding grapes from the very beginning of July, combining it with watering. Nutrient mass is prepared from several components:

• Plain water - 10 l;
• Potassium sulfate - 2 g;
• Complex fertilizer - 5 g;
• A solution of fermented grass - 2 liters.

This amount is enough to feed 3 square meters. m plantation. Young growth and old shrubs growing on poor soil are especially in need of nutrients. Fertilize the grapes with a warm composition, heated by the sun's rays.

Mulching with needles also favorably affects the condition of the bushes. The event increases the sugar content of fruits and prevents the development of a fungal infection. It is carried out at any time, however, the best effect from the application this method observed in July-August.

In the softening phase of berries formed on early varieties, nitrogen is excluded from dressings. The accumulation of sugar is stimulated by phosphate-potassium preparations:

• 300 g of superphosphate insist in 3 liters of warm water;
• The mixture is filtered and infused until clarified;
• The liquid is drained from the thick and mixed with an infusion of ash (the amount of the auxiliary component is identical);
• The mass is diluted with 10 liters of water and again defended until clarified.

Use the drug only on the day of preparation and always in a settled form.

Foliar top dressing of grapes is done with the help of Plantafol, Novofert, Aquarin. How and with what the grapes are fed during July, you can watch the video.

Are grapes pruned in July?

Consider whether it is possible to prune grapes in summer, and which parts of the plant are to be removed in July. Green operations in the second summer month are to remove stepchildren and tie up active shoots to the trellis. Stepsons are lateral processes that emerge from the leaf axil. Leaving them is not recommended, since the extra parts give the plant density and cover the fruits from sunlight. In this case, the crop will turn out sour, and the health of the shrubs will deteriorate.

During the ripening period, early grape varieties cut off leaves that are located close to the clusters. This will improve the access of the sun to the berries and have a beneficial effect on their color.

Proper care of grapes in July involves some cunning in pinching. The shoots of the 2nd and subsequent levels are not completely removed, since the grapes tend to quickly release stepchildren. Delay this process by cutting off only the top of the stepson. This is approximately 1.5 - 2 cm from the leaf. Cut grapes are inspected weekly and stepchildren are harvested as needed.

Disease protection

It is forbidden to treat grapes with pesticides from the moment a prune plaque (a gray waxy coating) appears on the fruits. Before that, you can spray the plantation in order to protect plantings from diseases. After waiting 20 days after the previous treatment, in dry, hot weather, the grapes are sprayed with Flint. In the rainy season, preventive spraying is done earlier - after 15 days and with the help of Topaz, Horus, Skor, Thiovit Jet, Quadris. Spraying the grapes, the summer resident protects him from mildew and oidium.

In bad years additional processing resistant to mildew, medium and late-ripening varieties carried out immediately after the rain with Ridomil Gold. If the first half of summer is consistently dry and warm, you can do without processing. Spraying grapes with hot compounds, you can reduce the number of fungicidal treatments by 2-3 times.

When a vineyard is affected by a tick, the plants are treated with sulfur-containing preparations. Colloidal sulfur and Thiovit Jet are most effective against pests at air temperatures above 30°C.

If signs of rot are found on ripening brushes, spoiled berries are immediately removed. The remaining bunches should be sprayed with Metronidazole. These are pharmaceutical tablets, 10 - 15 pieces of which are dissolved in 10 liters of water. Any spraying of grapes in July is stopped 3 weeks before the fruit ripens.

Other work in the vineyard in July

As the berries grow, the load of the bushes is monitored by the harvest. Regulate the grapes in July of the work of such a plan as reducing the number of clusters by 15 - 20%. This applies to overloaded plants that have stopped growing and straightened the tops of the shoots. Since nutrients are used primarily for the maturation of the crop, it is important to provide clusters with an influx useful elements. Then the bushes will take substances for the maturation of the vine.

The last grafting of grapes is carried out in July using the “butt budding” technology. For budding, large, full-fledged eyes with partially stiffened scales are taken. Soft grassy buds reduce the survival rate of budding. From June to July, budding is done with green shields, leaving the grafted eyes “sleeping” until spring.

As the hot weather ends, the vaccinations are carefully removed polyethylene film and remove the shoots formed on the rootstock. Until the end of the month, the soil is loosened and weeds are removed. Closer to August, the first crop is harvested from the varieties Super Extra, Russian early, Korinka Russian.

How to care for grapes in July correctly shows the third thematic video. Watch, learn and harvest only generous harvests!

The epithets "demanding, capricious, pretentious" are completely inappropriate for such a plant as grapes. It is so unpretentious that its uncultivated varieties can often be seen growing on stony, nutrient-poor soils. That is why even novice gardeners are able to successfully grow a sunny berry. But in order for the vines to radiate health and consistently delight with a delicious harvest, they need to be periodically fed.

Many owners of summer cottages are wondering what fertilizers can achieve rapid growth and development of plant bushes. It is equally important to observe the recommended time for feeding and follow it. the right way. Let's take a look at the intricacies of this process.

Why is it so important to feed the grapes?

Nutrient soil - guarantee high yield grape bushes and excellent quality of berries. But over time, the soil is inevitably depleted, which leads not only to a deterioration in the fruiting of the plant, but also to a slowdown in its development, a decrease in resistance to adverse external factors.

The specificity of caring for grapes lies in the fact that in certain periods of development of the bush, its vines need different nutrients. The normal growth of the plant and the volume of the crop that it can bring will be in jeopardy if the rules and terms for the introduction of certain nutrients and microelements are not followed.

Nutrients necessary for the growth of grapes

1. Nitrogen is required for abundant growth of green mass. The best time for its introduction - the beginning of spring, when shoots actively grow on the bush and young leaves form. AT summer period grapes do not need nitrogen, and closer to autumn, its use can even harm: all the forces of the plant will be spent on growth and the formation of new shoots, and their much-needed lignification at the end of the season will be incomplete or will not occur at all. Nitrogen-containing preparations are diverse, urea and ammonium nitrate are very popular.
2. When grapes begin to bloom, their need for phosphorus increases dramatically. Thanks to this element, inflorescences develop better on the vine, more ovaries are formed, and the degree of fruit ripening increases. A lot of phosphorus in a form easily digestible by the plant contains a fertilizer such as superphosphate.
3. With the advent of autumn, it is worth fertilizing the grape bushes with potassium. It accelerates the maturation of young shoots and brushes, and also makes the plant more resistant to cold.
4. Fertilizers containing copper increase the resistance of grapes to adverse climatic conditions (drought, severe frosts), and also have a positive effect on the growth of shoots and the development of the plant as a whole. The best time for .

Boron, zinc, magnesium, potassium, sulfur, iron also affect the growth, fruiting and quality of vines.

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Mineral fertilizers for grapes

Proper plant nutrition is the key to its rapid and high-quality growth. At the stage of choosing a fertilizer, inexperienced gardeners often wonder what is better to use - mineral or organic compounds? Both the first and the second are good in their own way and allow you to get good result especially when combined with each other. It is only necessary to remember what substances the plant needs in a given period of its development, and to understand that it will not be possible to limit one preparation per season.

In spring and autumn, it is permissible to use specially designed products to fertilize vines.

• with one component in the composition (, superphosphate, ammonium nitrate);
• two- or three-component (ammophos, nitrophoska);
• complex composition (Aquarin, Novofert).

Organics versus chemistry

Fertilizing grape plants organic elements- an integral part of caring for them, accelerating the growth of shoots and increasing fruiting. Organic fertilizers are diverse. Each of them has a different effect on the development of the vine.

1. Manure makes the soil looser, allowing moisture and oxygen to more easily penetrate the roots of the vine. The microflora develops well, contributing to an increase in the digestibility of nutrients obtained from the soil. Spring top dressing plants with rotted manure will provide it for a long time the right amount potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus.
2. Another natural fertilizer, compost, has similar properties. It is especially popular because of its availability: any organic waste (sawdust, grass, food waste) is suitable for its preparation.
3. A lot of elements useful for the development of a grape bush and easily processed by it are contained in chicken manure. They are fed in spring period, in no case using the substance in a concentrated form. 10 days before the planned fertilizer, it should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:4. Immediately before the feeding procedure, more liquids are added to the prepared mixture, diluting the nutrient solution by another 10 times. For one bush, a dosage of the drug in 0.5 liters is sufficient.
   Chicken manure is rich in potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus, magnesium. These elements are contained in it in a higher concentration compared to other organic compounds.
4. In the spring, ash can be used to feed the vines. It successfully replaces potassium chloride, favorably differing from it in that it does not contain chlorine harmful to the plant. This substance also provides grapes with phosphorus.

The nuances of making root dressings

Fertilize plants can be root and foliar method. The nutritional compositions discussed above are applied under the root. To do this, each grape bush is surrounded by a shallow furrow, placing it at a distance of 0.45 m from the trunk. This introduction of nutrients facilitates the process of their absorption by the root system, making it as fast and complete as possible. You can improve the result of top dressing by combining it with watering.

It is important not only to choose the right composition for the nutrition of the vines, but also to fertilize them in the right time, then the growth and development of the plant will be uniformly intense, and the yield will be high.

On average, grapes require about 4 dressings per season. The first is carried out at the very beginning of spring. This composition is very effective:

• 10 liters of water;
• 20 g of superphosphate;
• 10 g of ammonium nitrate;
• 5 g of potassium salt.

The resulting volume of the solution is applied under the roots of one plant. 14 days before the grapes bloom, the procedure should be repeated.

When the fruits set on the clusters and the process of their ripening began, the vine is fed with products containing phosphorus and potassium, but without nitrogen in the composition. When the crop is harvested, it is time to apply potash preparations that will help the bushes more easily endure the cold.

If liquid manure is used to feed plants, it is applied at the rate of 1 kg per 1 m² of vineyard.

Do I need to fertilize grape bushes in the fall?

In addition to the mandatory fertilizing during the season, grapes should be fertilized regularly before wintering. If the soil is normal, the procedure is carried out every three years. Ideal for this purpose is a dry nutritional composition prepared from a mixture of

• ash;
• superphosphate;
• ammonium sulphate;
• manure.

It must be abundantly scattered on the surface of the soil of the vineyard, and then dig up the fertilized area.

If the soil is sandy, then the frequency increases to 1 time in 2 years. Grapevines growing in poorer, sandy soil require supplemental nutrition in the winter each year.

The specifics of foliar dressings

For Best results accelerating the growth of the vine, improving its development, strengthening health and increasing fruiting make it possible to achieve liquid top dressing applied under the root of the plant. However, the effect can be enhanced by supplementing them with foliar spraying. Grape leaves well absorb nutrients that fall on them as part of an aqueous solution.

Most often, 4 sprayings of plants per season are carried out at the following times:

1. shortly before flowering;
2. immediately after fruit set;
3. at the initial stage of their maturation;
4. 10-15 days after the berries begin to soften.

The ideal time for spraying is windless evenings or cloudy days. After the procedure, the leaf blades should be completely covered with small droplets of the nutrient composition. This support allows you to get desired result almost instantly.

For the procedure, you need to use products that contain components that cause increased growth of the grape bush and are necessary for its healthy development (nitrogen, cobalt, phosphorus, manganese, zinc, potassium, boron, copper, molybdenum). Easily soluble preparations of complex action specially designed for spraying (Aquarin, Kemira, Plantafol) have proven themselves well.

Supporters organic fertilizers it is recommended to use a fermented infusion of herbs for foliar dressings, diluted with water with the addition of ash. If you add 3 tablespoons of sugar to the prepared composition, the degree of absorption of nutrients by the leaves will increase significantly.

How to properly fertilize a vineyard

There is nothing complicated in the procedure for feeding grape plants. You just have to stick to simple rules the introduction of nutrients and observe the recommended terms, then there will be no problems with growing healthy and well-developed bushes. The options for both mineral and organic preparations that can be used for fertilizer are varied, and each of the gardeners will be able to choose the most suitable for their vineyard.

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