Foliar top dressing of indoor flowers. What to buy for spraying plants in the garden

I want to highlight such an important topic as spraying indoor plants. This topic is closely related to foliar feeding, since the treatments are similar, just in the second case, water is added nutrients.

Contraindications.

Even such useful procedure shown not by all plants. Foliar application and spraying are undesirable and even dangerous for plants with pubescent leaves (violet, gloxinia and others) - there is a possibility of leaf burns - since water droplets linger on the hairs and roughness longer and can “attract” the sun's rays, the likelihood of diseases and rot also increases. Of course, if you are confident in your knowledge and have a lot of experience in growing these plants, you can spray, moreover - I know people who make regular foliar top dressing for saintpaulias, and plants only benefit from this, but - again - experience is needed. I don’t risk it, because I don’t have such experience with violets.

I also noticed that you need to very carefully spray only plants brought home or those that you have changed their place of “residence” if they are prone to leaf fall. For example, this applies to ficus Benjamin - once she didn’t notice a draft - she moved it to another room and sprayed it - she lost some of the leaves. Especially in this case, you need to be careful with foliar feeding.

Rules for spraying and foliar feeding of indoor plants:

• I use water passed through a good filter - drinking, otherwise there is a possibility that spots will remain on the leaves. It is better to use ready-made foliar fertilizer if you are diluting concentrated fertilizer - do not forget about water too, since some elements do not work properly in hard water or even precipitate while still in solution, the temperature of water or fertilizer solution is a couple of degrees above room temperature,
• no drafts, the temperature in the room should be at least 18 ° C,
• avoid direct sunlight, best time for processing - morning or early evening; but in the late evening, if the plant is on the windowsill, there is a danger of hypothermia and, again, the appearance of diseases and rot,
• in hot dry weather, as well as in winter, when the heating is turned on, which additionally dries the air, I spray both in the morning and in the evening; autumn - spring - a couple of times a week,
• plants with large dense leaves, such as rubber ficus, philodendron, monstera, I spray not only from the front, but also from the back.
• the leaves must be clean before feeding - if there is a lot of dust on them, spots and stains will definitely remain,
• if the plant is flowering - avoid getting the nutrient solution on the buds and flowers,
• I do not foliarize if the soil of the plant is too dry - first you need to saturate the earth with moisture, and then fertilize the leaves,
• be careful also with the joint use of root and foliar fertilizers - they cannot be combined on the same day - you can fully feed under the root, and after 10 days (during active growth) - process by sheet.
• It turned out somehow a lot of rules, in fact - it's not difficult, most of them are familiar to us, but the result from their observance is very pleasing.

The effect of foliar feeding of indoor plants:

Foliar dressing really works amazingly in many cases. I have saved my pets many times. As far as I understand, nutrients through the leaves enter the plant faster and more fully - this has such an effect.

Also, this drug saves from chlorosis - spots on the leaves or discoloration of the leaves, overdrying of the edges. It is clear that you will not save already seriously ill leaves, but stop the development of chlorosis. For such top dressing, I use Dr. Foley "starter" and "orchid" - both I and my flowers really like it. I tried fertilizers for foliar treatment, which I usually water under the root, but in a lower concentration - the effect was far from being as pronounced as after Dr. Foley. I didn’t understand right away - after all, both there and there the main components are the same. The difference is obtained by the number of microelements, as I calculated - there are much more of them in the finished foliar feeding - that's the result! Perhaps there are some other secrets in this preparation. There was more than once the experience of transplanting plants using foliar feeding, especially for plants whose roots are weakened - when transplanting, I process the roots directly from the sprayer - they tolerate stress more easily and reanimate. It is also possible to reanimate plants that, for some reason, remain with a very weakened or dead root system without transplanting - in this case root dressing does not make sense - top dressing of the leaf part saves.

In the photo - croton, some time after the purchase, the growth point died off - Dr. Foley "strater" saved (three treatments).

So, who has not used foliar feeding before - I highly recommend it! And, of course, do not forget about the main fertilizer under the root!
Natalia Popova, Kiev

apple scab
apple scab

If you have treated apple trees from scab, and gooseberries from powdery mildew on young leaves, then spraying must be repeated on young ovaries. It is best to use a drug for diseases and pests for this. "Vectra". It is better not to use pesticides in your garden, but use biological products, and instead of chemicals, treat plants against diseases with a biological product "Zircon"(4 drops per 1 liter of water).

In the photo, blackcurrant bushes with small orange spots

Small orange spots - columnar rust, or larger orange swellings - goblet rust may appear on blackcurrant bushes. How to spray disease plants in this case? Treat the bushes with a preparation containing copper, for example, HOM. Also suitable for biopreparations "Fitoverm" or "Fitosporin".

cherry leaves
gooseberry leaves

If last year the leaves of cherries and gooseberries turned yellow and fell early, then spray them with any of these preparations for the treatment of plant diseases.

Gray rot on strawberries
Gray mold on raspberries

In wet weather, there is a risk of gray rot on strawberries and raspberries. Sprinkle the soil around the bushes with ashes. Good remedies for this plant disease are "Fitosporin" and "Zircon".

In the photo, red-gall aphid

On red currants in dry weather, it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying with a solution of drinking or soda ash (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) against red gall aphids.

Late blight of tomatoes
Bacteriosis of cucumbers

In the greenhouse at the end of the month, tomatoes should be treated against late blight and cucumbers against bacteriosis. For this purpose, use a drug to protect plants from diseases. "Zircon". If appeared on cucumbers spider mite(massive yellowing of the whole leaves), then apply "Fitoferm".

Plants do not set fruit well

If plants in greenhouses do not set fruits well, then once every 10 days spray them with preparations for treating plants from diseases "Ovary" or "Bud".

Peony sprouts
Peony sprouts

As soon as pink sprouts appear on peonies, immediately spray them with a protective spray against rot with a solution of any plant disease control drug containing copper (solution Bordeaux mixture, "Fitosporina").

Clematis
Shelter with white spunbond

Also open roses and clematis and do the same spray. Then cover them again, but without spruce branches, only with boxes. Place white spunbond on top. This shelter can be removed only when the threat of frost has finally passed. It is also necessary to spray planting phloxes, perennial asters, delphiniums and bearded irises right on the ground. Later, when shoots of lilies appear, repeat this procedure. This is especially important for oriental hybrids. In general, they should be sprayed systematically (at least once a month) all summer long. Zircon to avoid botrytis infection.

Asters in the photo

Pour annual asters with a drug against plant diseases "Fitosporina"- it helps to get rid of the black leg.

Spray the entire garden with one of the biological products to normalize the composition of plant cell sap. The best of them is "Silk" ("Novosil"). Also suitable "Epin-extra" or « healthy garden» . "Healthy garden"(and even better with a preventive protective cocktail: 2 grains each "Healthy garden" and Ecoberina, 4 drops "Zircon" and "Uniflora-bud", 8 drops "Fitoverma" per 1 liter of water) in general, all plantings should be processed once a month.

Aphids on the bushes
Aphids on the trees

In dry weather, green (melon) aphids may appear on bushes and trees. How do plants treat pests in this case? Systematically spray the plantings, especially the ends of the branches, with an infusion of pine needles or onion peel. Also use an infusion of citrus peels or dilute 3 tbsp. l. urea in 10 liters of water. Against aphids, there is also a chemical preparation for protecting plants from pests - "Perimore". However, it is better for spraying homeopathic, environmentally friendly "Healthy garden"(6 grains per 1 liter of water).

But it is impossible to get rid of aphids once and for all. A flying female, arriving from afar, immediately lays hundreds of eggs. Within a week, the insect will multiply.

ladybugs
ladybug larvae

Our most reliable helpers in the fight against this pest are ladybugs and their large black larvae with dots of red or orange color On the sides. They destroy aphids and their eggs by the hundreds every day. Many, unfortunately, do not know what the larvae look like. ladybug and destroy them.

Gallica in the photo

Another helper is the predatory gall midge. She likes to settle on beans and spicy crops, therefore, the planting of these plants should always be on your site, in addition, they cannot be sprayed with pesticides.

Weevil on strawberries
Weevil on raspberries

In early June, the weevil moves from strawberries to raspberries. How to water the plants from pests in this case? Take advantage chemical preparation "Cipershans" or a biological product "Fitoverm"(which is preferable).

At this time, it is no longer possible to spray the garden with concentrated mineral fertilizer or iron vitriol against lichens.

Leave this work for late autumn, but do a protective spray against the first pests that lay their eggs in opening buds, and then separate buds.

Spray the garden
Aphid

Before flowering, you can use karbofos, because it decomposes within a week and will have time to neutralize by the time of release. beneficial insects at the time of flowering garden. It is even better to spray the garden with an infusion of citrus peels or onion peels. It is especially important to process viburnum in a timely manner.

gooseberry bushes
Black currant bushes

Bushes of gooseberries, black currants, affected powdery mildew, and scab-affected apple trees, spray with a plant protection product against pests "Zircon"(4-6 drops per 1 liter of water).

Do the first spraying on young leaves, the second - about 2 weeks after flowering is completed on young ovaries. In the autumn, one more spraying with the same preparations should be carried out after you harvest the crop.

Preparations for the treatment of plants against pests

Make sure that at the time of flowering, the ants do not eat the blackcurrant ovaries. If the bushes bloom, but the berries do not give - that's their job. Under the bushes, to protect against ants, spread a rag soaked in kerosene (but please do not water the soil with kerosene).

Ants
Ant larvae

Ants and many other insects do not like this smell. You can drop a drop of any gel against ants on each trunk growing from the ground. Good drug to control pests of plants is a gel "A great warrior". Insects will run to the bait. Since the ants not only eat themselves, but also carry prey to the anthill, each of them, except for himself, will destroy a lot of his relatives, and most importantly, the queen will die. ( By the way, this drug acts on wasps in the same way.) If on the soil under the bushes fuss a large number of ants, remove about 2 cm of the top layer of soil, most likely, there you will find oviposition. Pollinate it with a pesticide "Phenaksin" or "Ant"(preparations are low toxic for other insects and warm-blooded inhabitants of the garden). Ants and eggs will die under the influence of the drug.

Bud mite on black currant

Check for bud mites on blackcurrants - the pests are found in large round swollen buds that are very different from other buds and are clearly visible. Sick kidneys should be robbed and burned, and not thrown anywhere or sent to compost. When the blackcurrant blooms, see if there are any irregular flowers on any bush with narrow, fused petals of a dirty pink color. This indicates a very dangerous and contagious disease - terry. Uproot and burn such a bush immediately, even if you find flowers on just one branch.

Red currant
red gall aphid

Red currants are often attacked by the red gall aphid, which penetrates the inside of the leaf, eating away the flesh. Her stool causes poisoning, which is manifested in red swellings on the leaves (galls). How to spray plants from pests in this case? Early spraying on young leaves will help "Fitoverm" or "Akarin", which is absorbed by the leaves and functions in the cell sap for 3 weeks, protecting the plant from any sucking or gnawing pests.

Important! After treatment of plants with preparations from pests, there should be no rain for 3-4 hours so that it does not wash off the preparation. In addition, spraying should not be done in sunny weather, because the drug will evaporate faster than it will be absorbed by the leaves.

In the photo aphids inside the leaf

Any external processing practically useless, since the aphid is inside the leaf. To prevent it from entering the leaves, carry out soda spraying in dry weather, but always on the underside of the leaf, as well as on the buds swollen at the very beginning of spring (3 tablespoons of drinking or soda ash per 10 liters of water). The fact is that aphids penetrate the leaf from the underside, and soda will burn its delicate cover and it will die. This pest lays its eggs at the very tip of the branches at the end of the season.

To destroy them late autumn after the leaves fall, treat the ends of the branches with boiling water or spray with concentrated mineral fertilizer / saline. Be sure to mow near the grass area, preventing them from earing, especially sedge - a breeding ground for rust.

In the photo, the Colorado potato beetle
In the photo of the larvae Colorado beetles

If you find bright salmon-colored larvae or yellow-black striped Colorado potato beetles on potatoes, treat the potato bushes with a preparation "Sonnet"(on the large areas - "Aktara"). Spraying is carried out once a season before flowering.

In the photo phlox
On the photo of irises

Feed peonies, phloxes, irises, asters with ash, pouring it over the moist soil around the plant and slightly loosening it.

Pictured is a strawberry

If the strawberry bushes are “bored” or in the middle of the bushes an aphid slobber (spitting) appears, then pour a hot solution (60-65 ° C) of bright pink potassium permanganate over the strawberries.

Red beetle on a lily bud
Red beetle on a lily flower

drug "Sonnet" or "Aktara" you can spray lilies if you find a red beetle on them that eats leaves (semicircular cutouts appear on them along the edges), buds and flowers.

In order for indoor plants to delight with beautiful greenery and bloom luxuriantly, it is very important to follow the basic rules for spraying them. How to properly spray houseplants? Are there house flowers that are undesirable to spray?

Flower lovers can say with confidence that some types of plants are very fond of showers and regular spraying, others do not react to such procedures in any way, and still others can get sick and rot.

Why spray houseplants?

• To humidify the air around plants. Most indoor flowers do not tolerate too dry air in apartments, especially with winter heating. Fine water mist from the sprayer well saturates the air with water vapor.
• For plant cleansing. The leaves of indoor plants are gradually covered with dust. It's not just ugly, it's bad for the flowers because it breaks them. natural processes respiration and photosynthesis.
• For irrigation, fertilization and treatment. All plants are able to absorb water through leaf blades and shoots; for some epiphytes, this is the main way to obtain moisture. Fertilizers, preparations for pests and diseases are also applied by spraying.

What problems can arise as a result of spraying?

Such problems sometimes arise due to improper spraying:

• Flowers are damaged by water.
• White spots remain on the leaves.
• Sunburns are possible.
• Some types of plants rot.

Avoiding these troubles is not difficult, adhering to certain rules.

Can all plants be sprayed?

The answer is simple - yes, everything! But in a different way. Indoor flowers came to us from wildlife, most from tropical forests. It rains everywhere, sometimes even in deserts it happens, it benefits plants. But, it is enough to watch ordinary garden flowers to understand: a warm summer rain is good, and prolonged cold rains lead to waterlogging of the soil and rotting of plants. Rains are also undesirable during flowering - water spoils delicate petals.

Plants of humid and hot forests with large leathery leaves (orchids, aroids, bromeliads) feel great under constant downpours, because they have an interesting ability - they easily absorb moisture, and when the rain stops, they quickly evaporate its excess, preventing roots from rotting . Plants that do not have such features do not need either abundant watering or regular spraying.

How to spray water for spraying

Most home flower lovers do not think about the actual spraying of water at all. And this is a very important question! There are two methods:

• Water mist - droplets are very small, quickly evaporate, the leaves almost do not get wet, water does not flow down the stems into the soil.
• Sprinkling - drops of all sizes, both large and small, the water consumption is large, the water flows down the plant into the pot and onto the windowsill.

To humidify the air, it is precisely “water mist” that is needed, it can be used regularly. For cleaning, fertilizing, chemical processing larger droplets are required - splashing.

In most cases, a conventional plastic sprayer with hand pump. It allows you to slightly regulate the flow of water, but it's still splashing. It is better to buy a special sprayer with different modes of operation.

How to properly spray indoor plants

• Check the air humidity regularly. Under normal or high humidity, no flowers need daily spraying. If the air is too dry, it is better to spray the area around the plant with a water mist to increase humidity, rather than the flower itself. Better yet, use a humidifier.
• Consider the room temperature. Do not spray when the room is cold. In winter, especially if the plants are on the windowsill, you need to remember that the air temperature near the window is lower than in the room. As you know, the combination high humidity and cold directly at the window can contribute to the development of fungal diseases, rot.
• Don't water tender plants. Those indoor flowers whose leaves are pubescent, velvety or simply very thin and delicate (saintpaulia, gloxinia, arrowroot) are not sprayed every day. As a rule, they do not need frequent watering because they don't evaporate much water. Once a month easy warm shower useful but permanent water procedures they don't care.
• Use soft water, defended, it can be rain or distilled so that spots do not appear on the leaves. Salt spots are not only ugly, but also harmful to plants.
• Water temperature - room temperature. You can use a little lukewarm, but never take cold tap water straight from the tap. The only time you can use cold water- creating a fine water mist around plants on a hot summer day, this is useful not only for moistening the air, but also for normalizing the temperature regime.
• Keep soil moist. When spraying, some of the water flows into the pot along the stems and leaves. This can lead to root rot from excess moisture. You can cover the soil with a film, but this will only partially help.
• Do not spray in the sun. The water droplets on the leaves act like tiny lenses, easily causing burns. If a flowerpot with big plant stands in the sun, then water procedures can be done early in the morning or after sunset.

When the house is hot and the air is very dry, arrange an artificial rain. Moisture is partially absorbed by the plant, and partially evaporated. This will happen very quickly, the humidity will rise, the temperature will drop a little and nothing will rot. But home flower cleared of dust, which will definitely benefit him.

6 BASIC RULES FOR SPRAYING INDOOR FLOWERS
In order for indoor plants to delight with beautiful greenery and bloom luxuriantly, it is very important to follow the basic rules for spraying them.

You can control the level of humidity in the room with the help of a household humidifier. More simple and affordable way- spraying with a spray gun.
Spraying allows not only to humidify the air in the room, but also to reduce the amount of water evaporating from the surface of the leaves of indoor plants and the substrate, as well as to keep the flowers clean.
In the heat, it is better to spray plants with delicate leaves before 9 am or in the afternoon, and it is still better to take care of the flowers that are located on the north side of the apartment when the air temperature is maximum.
Regular spraying of plants does not replace watering them. And regularly watering does not mean that manipulations with the spray gun should be abandoned. In the matter of moisturizing indoor flowers, there should be a middle ground.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the basic rules for spraying home plants.
Rule 1. It is imperative to spray from the upper and lower sides of plants with hard and shiny leaves (cypress, azalea, arrowroot) and inhabitants flora tropics (orchid, philodendron, bromeliad).
Orchids can be sprayed several times a day
But plants with velvety (gloxinia), thin (pelargonium), transparent (caladium) leaves do not tolerate high humidity and subject to decay.
In the cold season, watering these plants should be limited as much as possible.
For supporting optimal level moisture, you can spray the space around them or place vessels with water next to them.
Rule 2. So that after spraying there are no stains on the furniture, and the window sill and window do not have to be wiped every time, it is better to carry out water procedures in the bathroom.
Rule 3. Ideally, spraying should be done twice a day - in the morning and in the evening. However, the main thing here is not to overdo it. After all, the water that glass over the leaves into the substrate stagnates. And excessive moisture, as you know, can harm the plant, causing its disease.
Therefore, it is very important to set the atomizer to minimum atomization.
Rule 4 flowering plants it is worth moistening in such a way that water droplets do not fall on the inflorescences. Otherwise, the flowers will quickly wither.
Rule 5. First, the plant should be watered and only after that it can be sprayed.
If you do not follow this rule, you can easily water one flower twice, and not water the other at all. Indeed, after spraying, the substrate is darker, and it is impossible to determine by eye whether the plant is moistened or not.
Rule 6. When spraying plants in the warm season, you still should not carry out the procedure when the flowerpot is in direct sunlight.
Flowers standing in the sun should not be sprayed
To avoid burns on the leaves, it makes sense to rearrange the flower or wait until the sun "leaves" the room.
Following these simple rules for spraying home plants, you will be able to grow a beautiful garden on your windowsill that will delight you and your loved ones with lush color almost all year round.