Caring for tomatoes in the greenhouse. Top dressing of tomatoes in the greenhouse

Thursday, March 20, 2014 5:00 pm + to quote pad

It is hard to believe that although tomatoes, they are tomatoes, have been known to Europeans since the middle of the 16th century, they began to be eaten only at the very end of the 18th century. Prior to this, tomato bushes were grown exclusively as ornamental plant, and their fruits were considered poisonous. As early as 1774, gardening manuals warned that tomatoes would drive those who eat them crazy. Perhaps they were not so far from the truth: a delicious, juicy tomato can really drive a true gourmet crazy!

Tomatoes, or tomatoes, are herbaceous or semi-shrub, annual or perennial plants belonging to the nightshade family. The tomato has a very developed root system, and its seeds remain viable for about nine years

Growing seedlings of tomatoes

For sowing tomatoes, you need to use separate area: plastic containers, seedling cassettes, etc., which need to be disinfected before sowing. Before sowing seedlings, it is necessary to provide good lighting, regular temperatures and air ventilation. Any seedling containers must have special drainage holes at the bottom, otherwise the plants will be susceptible to black leg disease.

For sowing seedlings of tomatoes, you can use any universal sowing substrate or compost from a mixture of sand and peat, taken in equal parts. It is not worth sowing tomato seeds too thickly, otherwise the seedlings will be thin and weak - they will stretch. If you are sowing seeds in a greenhouse, then sowing should be done in rows, this will allow you to use the lighting as much as possible.

Immediately before sowing, the substrate must be thoroughly moistened. The seeds themselves need to be warmed up - this will contribute to their disinfection, improve their sowing qualities and contribute to the appearance of faster, more friendly shoots. It is necessary to warm dry full-weight tomato seeds with variable temperatures: 48 hours - at a temperature of about +30 ° C, after that another 72 hours - at +50 ° C. Seeds can be sown dry or pre-soaked in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. We lower the seeds into a glass with a solution and stand there for about half an hour. After that, the seeds must be washed in running water about 10 minutes. Immediately after sowing, the substrate must be covered with a film or a 5 mm layer of vermiculite, this will help maintain soil moisture.

Before the appearance of the first shoots of tomatoes, it is necessary to maintain a temperature not higher than +23 ° C. And immediately after their appearance, the film from the seedling containers must be removed. In order not to expose still very weak seedlings to excessive evaporation, it is better to remove the film in the afternoon. When watering seedlings, which must be done with a finely sprayed jet, it is impossible to fill it with water heavily. It is also necessary to observe the temperature regime for growing seedlings. So, as soon as the first shoots appear, the temperature should be reduced to + 8-10 at night and + 10-15 during the day - within 3 days, thus hardening the seedlings from the first days of its appearance. It is necessary to harden the seedlings until they are transplanted into a greenhouse, but not less than 15 days for the entire time of their growth.

planting tomatoes

For the cultivation of tomatoes, it is better to choose the southern, southwestern or southeastern areas. Good yields are given by tomatoes planted near the southern wall of buildings or a fence. Tomatoes can be successfully grown in the same place even 2-3 years in a row, although then organic fertilizers must be applied for planting. The best predecessors for tomatoes, these are cucumbers, cabbage, zucchini and onions. It is not recommended to grow tomatoes after pepper, potatoes, eggplant and physalis. In those areas where these crops were cultivated, tomatoes can be planted no earlier than three years later. Otherwise, you will put the plants in danger of getting sick.

The soil for planting tomatoes in open ground must be prepared in the fall. So, if the acidity of the soil is increased, it is necessary to apply under autumn digging per 1 sq. m: 0.5-0.9 kg of lime, 5-7 kg of organic fertilizers (you can take compost, bird droppings, peat or manure) and 40-60 g of superphosphate. If you applied a sufficient amount of fertilizer - about 10 kg per sq. m, under the previous crop, then the area allotted for growing tomatoes only needs to be dug up.

Spring tillage for preparation for tomatoes should include application per 1 sq. m of soil 30-40 g of superphosphate, as well as 25-30 g of potash fertilizers. Immediately before planting, already under the last loosening of the soil, it is necessary to add 1 sq. m 15-20 g of potash and 30-40 g of nitrogen fertilizers.

Planting tomato seedlings in the ground

from timely and quality fit hardened seedlings of tomatoes in the ground largely depends on obtaining a high yield.

It is necessary to plant tomatoes in the first decade of June, and only after the danger of frost has passed will warm weather be fully established. Both in combs and on flat surface plants should be placed in rows, with a distance between them of 30-40 cm with a distance between rows of 30-50 cm.

Before planting tomatoes on the site, it is necessary to make holes and spill them well with water - 0.9-1 l per hole. Try to purchase tomato seedlings a few hours before planting so that it does not wither - withered seedlings take root quite poorly and get sick, lagging behind in development. Those who grow seedlings on their own should not have such problems; they have the opportunity to plant seedlings in the garden immediately after they are taken out of the cups or selected from the greenhouse.

It is necessary to plant seedlings a little deeper than it grew in a greenhouse. Experienced gardeners are advised to cut off several lower leaves from the plant and, when planting, bury them as much as possible - you can bury the plant up to half of the stem, and you need to plant it slightly with a slope to the northwest. The roots of the seedlings must be carefully compressed with earth, without bending them, so that the ends of the roots are directed to the bottom of the hole. After the tomato seedlings are planted, the plants must be watered, and the hole itself must be sprinkled with dry earth on top.

Excellent results are obtained by growing tomatoes under simple film shelters and on insulated soil - fallow ridges, this allows for higher yields of early tomatoes, and also accelerates the ripening of fruits.

To make steam ridges, it is necessary to dig a pit with a width of about 60 cm and a depth of about 20 cm. Biofuel must be loaded inside the ridges, in simple terms - heated manure (a layer of about 5 cm), and covered with earth 15 centimeters from above . Seedlings on fallow beds should be planted in the same way as on open ground, the only difference is that planting should be started 20 days earlier, somewhere in the middle of May.

Quite often, shelters made of transparent polyethylene film are also used, the use of which, especially when combined with fallow ridges, makes it possible to plant tomato seedlings as early as early May and, as a result, to harvest tomatoes as early as mid-July. Film-covered frames should be installed over the fallow beds immediately after planting the seedlings, leaving them for the entire growing period. Care for plants under the film is exactly the same as in open field and consists of timely loosening, top dressing and the formation of bushes.

Tomato care

Caring for tomatoes primarily consists in hilling, loosening the soil, fertilizing and watering the plant, as well as forming a bush and timely control of diseases and pests.

The soil in the aisles and rows with tomatoes needs to be loosened - approximately every 10-12 days, but at least several times during the summer. When loosening, try to prevent the formation of a crust. If you are cultivating tomatoes in heavy soils, deep loosening is necessary in the first 10-15 days after planting.

The first time to spud tomatoes is necessary 9-11 days after the seedlings were planted. Watering should be done immediately before hilling: hilling the tomatoes with moist soil will accelerate the formation of new roots on the stem of the plant. The second hilling must be done 16-20 days after the first.

It is timely necessary to water the tomatoes. So, at first they are watered into the wells, the water consumption is 0.7-0.9 liters of water per plant. The best time for watering is the afternoon and cloudy weather. It is absolutely necessary to water the tomatoes during the flowering period of the 1st and 2nd brush, without fail before loosening the soil and after applying dry mineral fertilizers under them. During the summer, tomatoes need to be fed several times with mineral and organic fertilizers.

Plants are undemanding to air humidity, but if the humidity is excessively high, plants can get late blight and brown spot.

The first top dressing should be carried out 10-12 days after planting - with a mixture of mineral and organic fertilizers. So, for a 10-liter bucket of mullein solution (for one part of mullein or slurry, you need to take 8-9 parts of water), you need to add about 20 g of superphosphate. One bucket of this nutrient solution should be used for 10 plants. The second and third top dressing (with an interval of 2 weeks) should be carried out with dry mineral fertilizers immediately after loosening or for hilling. On a plot of 1 sq. m area, you need to add about 20 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium salt and 10 g ammonium nitrate.

In the North-Western regions, in the process of caring for tomatoes, great attention must be paid to the formation of a plant bush - its timely stepsoning, as well as pinching the top of the stem. The practice of many gardeners has shown that excellent harvest mature tomatoes in the open field can be obtained by forming a plant bush into one stem, leaving 2-3 brushes.

Tomato plants need to be tied to stakes or a special rope stretched along the rows. Stakes should be placed on the north side with a distance of 9-11 cm from the stem. Plants must be attached to the stakes in three stages: the first time - immediately after planting the seedlings (not far from the first leaf), the second and third - as the plant grows - we raise the cord to the level of the 2nd and 3rd brush. If trellises are used to grow the plant, it is necessary to hammer stakes every four meters, between which you need to pull the thread

Pests and diseases of tomatoes

The most common diseases of tomatoes are late blight, macrosporiosis, streak, septoria, late blight, stolbur and blossom end rot.

Pests: wireworms, whitefly, mole crickets, gall nematode, scoops.

The lack of most nutrients in tomato plants can be defined as follows:

with a lack of nitrogen, the color of the stem, leaves, and also the fruits of tomatoes themselves change. The leaves become smaller, yellowish in color, the veins below the leaf become red-bluish, the fruits become harder and smaller;
if the tomatoes lack phosphorus, the leaves of the plant are wrapped inside;
with a lack of potassium, the sheets become curly;
a lack of calcium leads to the fact that young leaves are completely covered with yellow spots, and the old ones become larger and change color to dark green. Often in such cases, tomato plants undergo blossom end rot, most often this occurs when the humidity of the air is increased;
with sulfur starvation, the leaves first become pale green in color, after which they intensively turn yellow, and sometimes turn red. Sulfur starvation appears first on young leaves, while the stems of plants become extremely brittle and fragile;
lack of boron leads to blackening of the growing point of the stem, and the fruits are affected brown spots;
if tomato plants lack molybdenum, the tomato leaves turn yellow, gradually twisting upwards, and the entire plate of leaves is completely affected by chlorosis;
in case of iron deficiency, tomatoes completely stop growing. Their young leaves are affected by chlorosis. In the most severe cases, the leaves of the plants turn completely white.

harvesting tomatoes

Three weeks before the final harvest, both the buds and flowering shoots of the plant must be removed, this will contribute to the early ripening of the bulk of the fruit. Harvesting of tomatoes must be done selectively, and first of all, ugly fruits must be removed. To keep the tomatoes for a longer time, they need to be harvested not red, but brown, and only then they are put to ripen. Tomatoes must be removed from the bushes until the nighttime air temperature drops below 8 ° C. This is due to the fact that at low temperatures the risk of diseases of tomatoes increases significantly.

Varieties and hybrids of tomatoes

According to the structure of the bushes, tomatoes are divided into non-standard, standard and potato-shaped. Non-standard tomatoes are distinguished by thinner stems that lie down during the fruiting period, as well as large, slightly corrugated leaves. Standard tomatoes are distinguished by compact bushes and, conversely, have a fairly thick stem, heavily corrugated leaves, medium in size, with short petioles. Potato-like, otherwise large-leaved tomatoes are quite rare, and they are called so because they have leaves that resemble potato ones in shape.

Today, there are more than 70 varieties and hybrids of tomatoes, and this is only for cultivation in open ground, as well as over 40 varieties for greenhouses. The most common of them are listed below.

Early ripe varieties

White filling is one of the most productive varieties. The bushes of the variety are relatively small and do not need pinching. The fruits are round or round-flat, fleshy, smooth, slightly ribbed at the stalk, weighing up to 130 g. The color of mature fruits is bright red, and in the unripe state - milky white.

Ground Gribovsky - a variety that is resistant to both diseases and low temperatures, drought-resistant, but with high humidity very susceptible to late blight. It gives high yields not only when grown through seedlings, but also by sowing seeds directly into the ground. The fruits of the variety are round or round-flat in shape, smooth, medium in size, and weighing up to 100 g

Sparkle - low, medium-branched tomatoes. The fruits are elongated-oval, their weight reaches 110 g, and the growing season is up to 115 days. The variety is one of the most high-yielding, with tender fruits.

Mid-season and mid-late varieties

These varieties are most suitable for outdoor cultivation, the fruits ripen in 100-130 days.

The novelty of Pridnestrovie is a medium-late and extremely productive variety. The bushes have an average height and medium-sized fruits weighing up to 60 g. The fruits themselves are orange-red or bright red, elongated-oval in shape, smooth, have a thick and rather dense shell. Resistant to blossom end rot.

Fakel is a very high-yielding variety, characterized by a friendly ripening of fruits. Bushes are compact, medium-sized. The fruits are very easy to separate from the stalk, round and smooth, red in color, weighing up to 100 g.

Late-ripening varieties

Late-ripening tomato varieties are best grown in the southern regions of the country, since their growing season reaches 150 days. Late-ripening varieties are significantly superior in yield to early and mid-season ones.

Ermak - variety undersized tomatoes with round-oval and red fruits, weighing up to 140 g and have a rough skin. It is steady against cracking, differs in stable high yields and amicable ripening. The fruits of the variety are stored on plants for a long time.

Tortila is an indeterminate (tall), non-standard hybrid. It is best grown in a greenhouse, fruiting all season. It has flat-round fruits weighing up to 100 g. The fruits of the variety are extremely resistant to viruses, root rot and brown spot.

Tomatoes or tomatoes are versatile vegetables that are used as food in fresh as well as for processing. Fruit contains many nutrients. These are perennial plants, but in the conditions of our country they are grown as annuals.

planting tomatoes

Fruits are demanding to heat. They grow and develop better at a temperature of 20-25°C. At -1°C plants die. The fruits are tied at a temperature of 15 ° C.

High temperatures, like low temperatures, have a detrimental effect on plants. At temperatures above 35°C, pollination stops and the flowers fall off.

The main crop is obtained from undersized varieties open ground, amicably tying fruits: Ermak and Novinka of Pridnestrovie. To get early production, early-ripening varieties are planted with seedlings.

Seedlings need to be grown with a pick. In the south of Russia and Ukraine, it is possible to plant tomatoes in the ground without picking and sowing seeds on the beds. Growing varieties of different ripening dates, planting in a greenhouse and the ability to properly ripen fruits harvested in technical ripeness provide the gardener with a vegetable conveyor that allows you to have fresh vegetables on the table almost all year round.

On the site for tomatoes, they choose a place with well-cultivated soil - loose, nutritious and moisture-intensive. Any crops, except nightshade, can act as predecessors.

Beds for tomatoes are prepared ahead of time. In autumn, the soil is freed from the remains of plants, dug up, introducing 4 kilograms of humus and 70 grams of superphosphate per square meter. Nitrogen fertilizers are not applied in the fall.

Tomatoes are very fond of top dressing, but you need to be able to properly apply mineral fertilizers. Excess nitrogen fertilizer causes leaves and stems to grow, and fruiting can not wait. Phosphorus and potash fertilizers stimulate the development of fruits.

A sufficient amount of potassium in the soil makes the fruits tasty and resistant to cracking. No less than potassium, tomatoes need phosphorus nutrition. Phosphorus goes to the formation of fruits, so you can’t do without superphosphate. Phosphorus can be applied when planting seedlings, a teaspoon under each bush.

To receive early harvest tomatoes are planted with seedlings. The age of the plants at the time of planting permanent place should be 50-60 days. Seedlings should have 5 leaves and one flower brush in the form of buds or already opened flowers.

In the climate of the middle zone, seedlings are planted at the end of April under a film and other temporary shelters. On South the best time for sowing seeds in open ground - mid-April, by this time the soil at the level of seed placement should warm up to a temperature of + 10 ° C.

Before sowing, the seeds are divided by size and weight. It is necessary to separate unripe seeds that will not give full-fledged outcomes from heavy ones. To do this, pour the seeds into salt water: 1 tablespoon of salt with a slide of 1 liter. water. After a few minutes, discard the floating seeds, and take out the sunken ones and rinse under the tap so that there are not even traces of salt left on them - it will interfere with germination.

Many summer residents process seed, for example, harden it, keeping it at varying temperatures, or disinfect it in potassium permanganate. Such seeds are sown in open ground along a cord so that 4-6 plants are located per square meter.

When growing tomatoes with seedlings, young plants are planted according to the scheme 70 by 50 cm for indeterminate varieties, and 60 by 35 cm for determinant ones. Seedlings are planted vertically and deepened to cotyledon leaves. Overgrown seedlings are planted at an angle of 45 degrees, filling the stem up to the 4th leaf.

De Barao is a high-yielding pickling variety that has been a favorite of summer residents for several decades. Its branches are hung with fruits until frost. Initially, De Barao was intended for growing in greenhouses, but gardeners have learned how to harvest multi-colored plum-like fruits, unsurpassed in pickling, and in open ground.

Growing indeterminate tomatoes in open ground is possible only through seedlings. Plants are planted on the beds with 60-day-old seedlings, burying the roots and lower part stem at an angle of 45 degrees so that only the flower brush and one leaf under it remain on the surface of the soil. This means that only the top of the plant will be on the surface.

The reception allows tomato bushes to develop a voluminous root system that will provide nutrition to the plant. Another plus of the planting method is that young plants “hidden” under the ground can be easily covered with foil if frost begins.

As soon as warm weather sets in, they put up trellises. A wire is pulled over the posts in two rows. If such a design seems complicated to you, you can stick a pole-support at least one and a half meters high near each plant. De Barao is a productive variety and by the beginning of autumn the pegs under the weight of the fruit can break or bend. Then the tomatoes will be close to the ground, which will help to survive the autumn frosts. It is necessary not to allow the fruits to lie on the soil.

Tomato Care

In open ground on the second day after planting, the plants are lightly spudded. Subsequent care for tomatoes in the open field consists of weeding, loosening and systematic pinching and.

In a dry climate, for example, in the south of Russia, it is not necessary to pinch and pinch tomatoes. Standard and determinant varieties do not need pinching - they are pinned to get an extra early harvest.

It is the most drought-resistant nightshade crop. They do not tolerate excess moisture in the soil, but with a strong lack of water they have to be watered.

Watering is carried out when the soil dries out, but without waiting until the leaves lose turgor. You can not keep the beds always wet - this will lead to root rot and late blight.

When watering, make sure that the entire topsoil gets wet. In very dry years, tomatoes have to be watered every other day. In normal years, it is enough to do this twice a week. In rainy years, watering may not be required.

Pay attention to late blight. This fungal disease leads to crop losses. The disease does not occur on a ventilated and illuminated plant, therefore pinching is a prevention of late blight.

The second important rule in caring for seedlings and growing tomatoes is proper watering under the root - tomatoes cannot be watered by sprinkling, since drops of water, falling on the leaves, will lead to the germination of phytophthora spores.

Harvesting in the open field can begin as early as June, but for this you need to plant seedlings of early ripening varieties under temporary film shelters. At the end of July, mass harvesting begins.

The most delicious will be tomatoes ripened on the vine. The crop must be fully harvested before the first frost, otherwise it will turn black and become unsuitable for processing. In order not to be late with the harvest of tomatoes, follow the weather in the fall.

Fruits harvested in an unripe form are placed for ripening, sorted according to the degree of ripeness: green ones are placed in boxes with green ones, pink ones with pink ones.

Before storage, tomatoes have to be sorted, because ripe fruits release ethylene, a substance that accelerates the ripening of neighboring, still green fruits.

The property can be used for accelerated ripening of fruits in the garden. Gardeners use a technique - they take a ripe large fruit, place it in a plastic bag and put it on a brush with unripe tomatoes with a tomato, tighten the neck of the bag with a rope. After 2 days, the entire brush will turn red.

To prolong the use of ripe fruits, put the boxes with green tomatoes in a cool room and cover with straw.

Senior tomato is a positive hero of culinary creations, in contrast to the famous cartoon character. To enjoy the taste of a homemade vegetable, it is enough to know the characteristics of the variety of culture and a few rules for growing tomatoes.

Some biological features of growing tomatoes

Tomato, or tomato, is a perennial plant belonging to the nightshade family, but is cultivated everywhere as an annual vegetable crop. The homeland of the tomato is South America, where its semi-cultivated and wild landings. It came to Russia from Western Europe and was initially cultivated as an ornamental crop, but, thanks to the Russian agronomist A.T. Bolotov (1738-1833), it was recognized as a vegetable food crop. Now grow good harvest Tomatoes are one of the favorite pastimes of millions of vegetable growers, amateurs and professionals.

Growing tomatoes can be done both in the greenhouse and on the open ground, and at home.

Ripe tomato fruits are rich in sugars, contain vitamins B, C, vitamin K, carotene and pectin, nicotinic and folic acids. They also contain proteins, starches, fiber and many other useful for human body trace elements. Fresh tomatoes and tomato juice are useful for gastritis with low acidity, diseases of the cardiovascular system, anemia, memory loss and general loss of strength. In addition, there is an opinion that if you eat a lot of tomatoes, it contributes to the prevention of cancer.

Growing tomatoes are an extremely successful plant. They are extremely responsive to various agronomic practices and special care conditions. Amateur vegetable growers grow tomatoes by sowing seeds in open ground, under temporary film shelters, planted in greenhouses and greenhouses, on balconies and loggias, and even grown in rooms on windowsills.

The plant has a highly developed root system. With a sufficient presence of moisture and nutrients in the soil, additional roots form on any part of the plant stem. Thanks to this ability, the tomato can reproduce not only by seeds, but also by the so-called lateral shoots (stepsons) and cuttings.

At favorable conditions seeds germinate in 4-5 days. The first true leaf is formed approximately on the tenth day after germination, the next 3-4 leaves a week after the first and in the future each new leaf after 4-5 days. Starting from this moment, in the axils of the leaves begin to form side shoots(stepchildren). The period from the first shoots to the flowering of plants takes about 60-70 days, from flowering to fruit ripening 50-70 days.

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Type of tomatoes and features of their cultivation

The soil for tomatoes should always be kept loose.

According to the type of bush growth, tomato varieties are divided into determinant (weak) and indeterminate (tall). In determinant varieties, the bush is small or medium (60-180 cm), the main and side shoots stop growing when 3-6 are formed on them, sometimes a little more brushes. Stepchildren are formed only in the lower part of the stem. Indeterminate varieties have unlimited plant growth. The main stem ends with a flower brush, and the stepson of the leaf closest to the apical brush continues the growth of the main stem. This happens until the very end of the growing season, which usually ends with the first autumn frost. The bush is tall, two or more meters, but the rate of flowering and fruit formation is lower than that of determinant varieties.

Tomatoes are a heat-loving crop, optimum temperature for the development and growth of plants - 24-25 degrees. At air temperatures below 10 degrees, the pollen in the flowers of the plant does not ripen and the unfertilized ovary falls off.

The plant does not tolerate high humidity air, but demanding watering, necessary for the growth of fruits. With a lack of light, the development of tomatoes is delayed, the leaves turn pale, the stems are strongly drawn out. Additional illumination of plants during the seedling period has a beneficial effect on the quality of seedlings and its productivity.

Proper care of the soil, maintaining it in a loose state, applying the required amount of organic and mineral fertilizers makes it possible to plant tomatoes for growing on almost any soil. The only exceptions are very acidic soils and solonchaks.

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Growing and caring for tomato seedlings

Tomato seedlings can only be grown indoors, in warm greenhouses and by planting seeds in the ground under film shelters. Growing tomatoes begins with the fact that in order to obtain seedlings of early tomatoes, seeds are sown in the first half of March. Growing seedlings takes 65-70 days. Sow in seedling boxes filled with soil mixture, peat pots, paper bags or plastic wrap. Liter bags of milk or kefir are suitable for this, if you plant two plants in each.

Tomatoes require a certain temperature environment for cultivation, therefore they are recommended to be grown in greenhouses and hotbeds.

To obtain mid-season and late varieties of tomato, seeds for seedlings are sown in the period from April 1 to April 10. Seedlings are grown for 60 days in special nurseries, greenhouses or small-sized film shelters. In this case, they are planted, as a rule, directly in the ground under shelters. In this case, the feeding area should be at least 6x6 cm.

If the method of growing seedlings in pots is used, then the seeds are sown directly in pots. However, more often, especially when growing early tomatoes, the seeds are first sown in seed boxes, and only two weeks after germination, seedlings in the phase of 1-2 true leaves are transplanted (dive) to a permanent place.

Before sowing, we prepare seeds by sorting and selecting the largest of them. Tomato seeds are checked for germination by placing them in a 5% solution. table salt or ammonium nitrate. After 7-10 minutes, heavier seeds will sink to the bottom, and those that remain afloat are rejected. Next, the selected seeds are disinfected. To do this, they are immersed in water heated to 50 degrees for 5 minutes, and then cooled in cold water. Finally, soak the seeds in clean water room temperature. Soaking takes place in a gauze bag filled with seeds by half the volume. Tomato seeds are soaked for 1-2 days, while the water is changed 2 times.

Seeds are sown to a depth of 1-2 cm. After the seeds are planted with soil through a strainer, they are watered with warm water and, having closed the boxes with foil, put them in a dark place. The temperature is maintained at 24-25 degrees, with strict observance temperature regime seedlings appear fairly quickly. After their appearance, the film is removed, and the temperature, in order to avoid stretching the seedlings, is reduced to 15 degrees within a week. Then it is again raised to 24-25 degrees.

During the cultivation of seedlings, maintain moderate soil moisture by watering 1-2 times a week. The first feeding of seedlings is carried out 10-12 days after picking, for this, 5-7 g of ammonium nitrate, 15 g of potassium chloride and 40-50 g of superphosphate are dissolved in a bucket of water. If necessary, subsequent top dressings are given at intervals of two weeks, while the concentration of fertilizers is doubled. Top dressing can also be carried out with organic fertilizers. To do this, use a solution of slurry, diluted with water horse dung 5 times, cow - 10 times, chicken manure- 15 times. A glass of ash or 25 g of superphosphate is added to a bucket of such a solution.

Two weeks before planting, the seedlings begin to harden it, reducing the temperature to 15 degrees, and a few days later bring it to the level outdoor temperature, covering it only in case of danger of frost. Quality seedlings has a height of 15-25 cm, a stem with a thickness of 5 mm, 6-9 true leaves and 1-2 flower brushes.

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Growing tomatoes in open ground

Planting tomatoes should not be done near potatoes.

The seedless method consists in planting seeds in open ground at a permanent place for growing tomatoes. The seedless method is practiced only in the southern regions and is carried out two weeks before the end of the last frost. Usually, an ordinary sowing method is used with row spacing of 65-70 cm. Seeds are sown to a depth of 2-5 cm. The plant density in a row is formed by thinning out sprouted seedlings, removing less viable shoots from a row. The first is carried out when two true leaves are formed in the seedlings, leaving 20-25 cm between plants in a row. The second - in the phase of plants having 5-6 leaves, leaving 40-50 cm between plants, focusing on the size of the bush. In the climatic conditions of the south, summer and even summer-autumn re-cultivation is possible, which is used after harvesting early vegetables and greens.

How to grow tomatoes the right way? Tomato plantings are placed away from potato plantings, after vegetable crops that do not belong to the nightshade family. In areas where such predecessors were grown, planting and growing tomatoes is allowed no earlier than after 3-5 years. Violation of this rule inevitably leads to plant disease with common diseases such as late blight.

Autumn care for the planting site includes digging 30-35 cm deep and applying organic or mineral fertilizers. On the fertile soils apply only the application of mineral fertilizers: 10 g of nitrogen, 10-15 g of phosphorus and 5-12 g of potash fertilizers per square meter. A full dose of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is applied when digging in the fall, and a full dose of nitrogen fertilizers is applied before planting in the spring. On infertile soils, organic matter is added in the fall at the rate of 6-7 kg / sq.m.

When using seedless planting, we must not forget that weed control is of paramount importance. Immediately after germination, tomato plants do not grow at all quickly and can be drowned out by fast-growing weeds.

When growing tomatoes with seedlings, an ordinary, with a row spacing of 70 cm, is used, the method of planting it in open ground or the tape method. With the tape method, the row spacing alternates at 50 and 90 cm. Such methods provide planting from 3-4 to 6 plants per sq.m. For giant varieties, the area of ​​plant nutrition, respectively, is increased by 3-5 times.

Before planting in the wells under the seedlings pour water, at least a liter. It’s good to pour a handful into the hole wood ash. Plants are planted vertically, slightly deeper than they grew in the nursery. At potted seedlings, pots are sprinkled with a layer of earth 2-3 cm, in order to prevent them from drying out. Elongated or overgrown seedlings are planted obliquely, leaving only fruit brushes with 2-3 sheets under them not covered. Leaves from the fall asleep parts of the stems in without fail are removed. On the sprinkled parts of the plant stem, additional roots are subsequently formed. As the plants grow, they are tied to stakes.

Subsequent plant care includes a lot of watering, loosening the soil, fertilizing with nutrient mixtures, pinching growth points, pinching, pest and disease control. Plants are watered when planting seedlings and during the entire growing season, taking into account weather conditions. Watering time - early morning or evening. Loosening the soil is carried out at least 4-5 times per season, while the plants are piled up (to form additional roots).

The first time top dressing is carried out two weeks after planting the seedlings, with a seedless culture in the phase of 5-6 true leaves. At the same time, 10 g of ammonium nitrate and 15 g of superphosphate are added per 1 sq.m. The second feeding is carried out with the beginning of the formation of fruits, using 5-10 g of ammonium nitrate and 15 g of potassium sulfate. Foliar top dressing of tomatoes with a 0.5% solution of superphosphate is very effective.

Once a week, pinching is carried out, removing side shoots when they reach 4 cm in length. Only some early maturing varieties with limited growth do not stepchild. To obtain larger fruits in racemes with many inflorescences, technology is used when some of the flowers are plucked out. In early August, pinching of growth points is used, since the fruits no longer have time to grow and ripen. Pinching growth points prevents the formation of new flower brushes, and all the nutrients go to the ripening of existing fruits.

Growing tomatoes in open ground is done as often as in protected ground. The timing of the onset of fruiting with such cultivation is delayed by a couple of weeks, but this does not in the least affect the quality of the crop and its quantity. A lot of attention will have to be paid to caring for tomatoes in the ground, but the result will certainly justify all the labor costs.

Spring usually brings surprises, and getting early production is called into question. You will learn how to properly grow tomatoes in the open field and avoid common mistakes by reading this material.

Agrotechnics for growing tomatoes: planting seedlings in open ground

Tomato seedlings are planted for outdoor cultivation after the threat has passed. return frosts, which usually occurs at the end of the first decade of May. It is recommended to plant seedlings at the age of at least 55 days for tall varieties and hybrids, for short ones - 40-45 days. Planting continues until the end of May, and seeds are sown directly into the ground. Seedless late tomatoes will go by autumn for winter harvesting.

In the presence of films such as spandbond, agrospan care is easier, planting seedlings in the ground can be done 10-12 days earlier than the average.

The best predecessors for tomatoes are cabbage, cucumber, legumes. The beds are best placed in well-lit, warm areas with highly fertile soils, but light and medium-textured soils are quite suitable for tomatoes.

To facilitate care, planting in open ground of tomatoes of undersized varieties and hybrids is carried out according to the scheme of 25-30 cm in a row and with row spacing of 60-70 cm, tall according to the scheme, respectively, 50-60 x 70-80 cm.

Before starting to grow tomatoes in the ground, on the eve of planting, already hardened seedlings are abundantly watered with a solution of the microbiological preparation Extrasol and the next day they are planted with a clod of earth. According to right technology growing tomatoes in open ground, a row is cut along a cord to a depth of 10-12 cm, up to 0.5 kg of an organo-mineral mixture is added under each plant or a special fertilizer for tomatoes is added. The plant is planted as deep as the first true leaves. If the seedlings are overgrown, then it is advisable to plant them obliquely and cover the root system with no more than 3-5 cm of soil from above. Remember that the agricultural technique for growing tomatoes in open ground does not provide for deep planting of overgrown plants in cool soil, from which the lower roots may die . Of course, the plant will not die in this case, but it will linger for at least two weeks in growth, during which time new additional roots will begin to form in tomatoes on the buried part of the stem.

The technology of growing tomatoes in open ground involves the mandatory watering of plants after planting with a small amount of water with Extrasol (10 ml per 10 liters of water) and sprinkle with fresh earth or any available mulch. The bacteria contained in the Extrasol preparation settle on the roots of the plant, create a certain polysaccharide shell, enhance the immune system, prevent decay, stimulate growth, have a transport function and move nutrients to growing points.

How to grow tomatoes in open ground: plant care

After 3-4 days after planting, adding soil to the roots of plants can be carried out without fear. The soil is already warm by this time, the root system young plant is in a comfortable state, and additional roots immediately begin to form. Further care for tomatoes in the open field consists in regular watering and subsequent loosening of the resulting soil crust, removal of stepchildren and stem formation, hilling, weeding, pest and disease control.

Tomato plants should be watered moderately, avoiding waterlogging and dryness of the soil. Irregular watering of plants in hot summers often leads to fruit diseases with blossom end rot and cracking. It is desirable to water in the morning and, if possible, by the end of the day, carry out light loosening, which means removing excess wet vapor and avoiding fungal diseases.

Observing the rules for caring for tomatoes when grown in open ground, loosen the soil after each rain or watering. In hot, dry weather, loosening helps to reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil, and in rainy cold weather it provides better gas exchange between air and soil, and reduces the possibility of fungal diseases.

To give the stems reliable stability, to enhance the growth of the root system, during the care of tomatoes in the open field, 2-4-fold hilling with moist soil is carried out.

Growing tomatoes in the Moscow region: the secrets of top dressing in the open field

When growing tomatoes in open ground in the Moscow region, the first top dressing is carried out 10-14 days after planting the seedlings in the garden.

Second - at the beginning mass flowering. Fertilizers are better to use water-soluble with a set of trace elements in chelated form. For example, Aquarins (Junior, Color, Fruit) Master or Fertika Lux, as well as calcium and potassium nitrate, potassium sulfate and magnesium sulfate, a series of Raykats Start, Development, Final or Nutri-vant. Once every two weeks, Extrasol is added to the tank mixture to water-soluble fertilizers at the rate of 10 ml for every 10 liters. In this case, fertilizers are given 40% less. Watering with such a composition can also be carried out through drip irrigation, and droppers are not clogged, and such watering is more efficient and economical compared to other methods. Good results are obtained by using the Rostock humic preparation after one watering. The products are of high quality and with the lowest content of nitrates.

The third top dressing when growing tomatoes in the ground is done during the period of fruit formation.

When cultivating tall tomatoes, at least two additional top dressings will be required. Simultaneously with top dressing, foliar top dressing is also given and, in parallel, measures are taken to protect tomatoes from fungal diseases such as late blight, alternariosis and others, as well as against pests (mites, scoops and whiteflies).

Watch a video about growing tomatoes in the open field, which demonstrates how to properly feed the plants:

How to grow tomatoes in the open field: pinching

Another secret of growing tomatoes in the open field is the correct pinching. The formation of plants begins with the regular removal of stepchildren. Tall tomatoes are usually grown in one stem, but under certain weather conditions and features of a variety or hybrid - in two stems. In this case, the second stem is the shoot under the first flower brush. All other stepchildren are removed, the main stem is the first. As the fruits of tomatoes form and set on the first two brushes, they begin to alternately remove the lower leaves to the first flower brush, then to the second, etc. No more than 3-5 leaves are left at the top. When laying at any tomato, 5-7 brushes pinch the tops of the plants. This technique is called topping and is carried out in order to accelerate the ripening of fruits during a protracted growing season in a cool summer.

Low-growing early ripe tomatoes can be grown without pinching, but to get an earlier and more friendly harvest, the first two stepchildren are removed, and if tomatoes are cultivated in the northern region, then they must not only be pinned, but also tied to a trellis or stakes.

As shown in the photo, when growing tomatoes in open ground with the onset of hot weather in July, it is advisable to shade the plants from scorching rays translucent breathable films:

It is also useful in the heat to spray with growth and fruiting stimulants to avoid shedding flowers and burning fruits.

How to grow good tomatoes outdoors: fertilization

During the care of tomatoes when grown in open ground, plants react strongly to soil fertility and the application of mineral fertilizers.

These plants are demanding on soil fertility. But nitrogen plays a special role in the period of growth and development. Timely feeding of tomatoes with nitrogen fertilizers contributes to the excellent formation of all vegetative parts of the plant, fruit formation and fruit filling. With a lack of nitrogen, the growth of stems and leaves is sharply delayed, especially during the period of growing seedlings. Plants become pale green, then turn yellow, starting from the main vein towards the edges, the lower leaves become grayish yellow and fall off.

With an excess of nitrogen, the plants “fatten”, which leads to a decrease in fruit formation and tomato resistance to diseases.

Timely introduction of phosphorus in the initial period of cultivation contributes to the development of a good root system and the formation of generative organs.

With a lack of phosphorus, the absorption of not only nitrogen, but also other nutrients by plants is disrupted, which leads to a slowdown in their growth, the formation of ovaries and the ripening of fruits. A reddish-violet color appears on the underside of the leaf, then their color becomes grayish, and the stems and petioles of the leaves become lilac-brown. To prevent phosphorus starvation of plants, phosphate fertilizers must be added to the soil before planting seedlings.

Potassium is necessary for tomato plants in the early stages of development for the formation of stems and ovaries. You need to know and remember that top dressing potash fertilizers increases cold hardiness of plants.

The combined application of phosphorus and potassium accelerates flowering, fruit ripening and increases disease resistance. With potassium starvation, the leaves begin to acquire a dark green color at first, then yellowish-brown spots form along their edges, which then merge into a continuous marginal border of dead tissue. The growth of the stems stops, spots and uneven ripening may appear on the fruits.

Other nutrients also play an important role: calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, boron, sulfur, molybdenum, zinc, chlorine, iodine, copper. Most of them are found in Fertika Lux fertilizer.

Remember that for normal growth, development and fruiting, you need to continuously give the plant necessary fertilizers. Weakened plants are more likely to get sick, the yield and its quality are sharply reduced. The lack of fertilizers is easy to eliminate if you know the secrets of growing tomatoes in the open field and carry out foliar top dressing with Fertika Lux, Raikat Final, Razormin. But an excess of fertilizer can be very harmful, especially in dry weather. Therefore, strictly observe the norms and terms of fertilization recommended by the instructions.

Tomato fruits begin to be harvested as they ripen from the end of June. Fruiting can be extended until cold weather, if you follow the correct agricultural technology and plant protection. With the onset of cold nights and morning growth in August, it is advisable to cover the planting of tomatoes with films such as spandbond.

Diseases of tomatoes in the open field when grown in the suburbs

The most common diseases of tomatoes when grown outdoors under conditions Moscow region are: late blight, tobacco and cucumber mosaic viruses, root rot. There are varieties and hybrids relatively resistant to viruses and root rot. For late blight cultivated plants stability is missing.

Signs of tomato disease with tobacco mosaic virus: leaves become covered yellow spots, the crown of the plant becomes thinner, the leaves are formed filiform, the fruits are small, the flowers are double, deformed. Such plants must be immediately removed and destroyed. The virus is not curable. You just need to sow seeds after a two-year shelf life. The tool must be disinfected during operation. Use for growing varieties and hybrids that are resistant to this disease. These include varieties F1 Dobrun, F1 Kineshma, F1 Grandma's gift, F1 Funtik, F1 Kirzhach, F1 Rosemary and tomatoes from other manufacturers.

Using the tips for growing tomatoes in the open field, you will never make the following mistakes:

• Return to the original place not earlier than after 4 years.
• Soil disinfection is not carried out. To do this, it is necessary to carry out spraying before planting on dry soil of future beds with a solution of Alirin-B with Gamair or a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
• Before planting and after planting, they did not shed the soil with Extrasol (10 ml per 10 l of water). Planting seedlings is desirable to carry out in cloudy time and without deepening the root system.
• Remember! Top dressing and watering should be carried out regularly in the morning and, when dried, loosen and spud with moist soil.
• Remember! After each spraying, be sure to carry out protective measures with the addition of growth and fruiting stimulants.

In this video on growing tomatoes in the open field, recommendations are given by experienced vegetable growers for caring for plants:

The main secrets of growing tomatoes in the open field

Many vegetable growers are interested in how to grow good tomatoes in the open field and avoid their "greasing"?

Intensive plant growth, dark, almost black leaf color, thick stems, twisted leaves at the top of plants and the absence of fruits are signs of excess nitrogen nutrition. Tomatoes "fatten"! Most often, this picture is observed with excessive application of organic fertilizers for crops and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers with a high nitrogen content.

Often the seedlings are pulled out. This is due to lack of light, too high temperature, with abundant watering and thickening. Seedlings must be properly spaced before the leaves close. With obvious stretching of seedlings, watering should be limited, the temperature in the room should be reduced to about 18-19 ° C, it is these factors that cause excessive growth with a lack of light.

And how to properly limit the growth of tomatoes in order to grow them in open ground strong and productive? The fruiting period of the indeterminate tomato is quite long. In country conditions and depending on the region of residence, it is impossible for such plants to completely wait for the end of growth and fruiting, unless, of course, the plants get sick or die from early autumn frosts. Pinching is carried out about a month before the final harvest. Two leaves are left above the last inflorescence for the full filling of the fruit that has set. Usually, in the conditions of the southern region, fruits have time to pour and ripen on 10-11 inflorescences.

Another important question is how to grow tomatoes in the open and avoid drying out of the leaves? The drying of the lower leaves of seedlings can be caused by several reasons. The first is the presence of sucking pests. The fight against them can be carried out both with the help of chemicals and in cases of the beginning of the maturation of products using biological agents: Fitoverm, Fitosporin, Bitoxibacillin. The second reason is too high a concentration of salts in the soil, while the rest of the plant's leaves droop. The third reason is lack of nutrition. In all likelihood, it is necessary to make urgent top dressing with small doses of water-soluble fertilizers such as Fertik Lux or humic preparations or microbiological preparation Extrasol.

In order to grow tomatoes in the open field in the way that proper agricultural technology suggests, it is imperative to deal with pests. The most harmful of them are nightshade miner, whitefly, garden (cotton) scoop, tomato moth. For the most part, this is the result of a lack of preventive measures during the cultivation of tomatoes. Get rid of these pests in advance with one of the approved drugs. One of the main secrets of growing tomatoes in the open field is the use of only high-quality biological preparations.