Red currant - proper fit, quality care. Planting redcurrant: rules and recommendations

garden currant- an irreplaceable source of vitamins and valuable organic substances. To obtain good harvest You will have to spend a lot of time and effort, but the result is worth it. Features of growing red currants, important nuances of care and possible problems- all necessary information provided in our article.

The key to a good harvest is the right place for planting. Redcurrant loves well-lit places, without drafts and blackouts. The soil is preferably sandy or loamy, with good aeration and a neutral or slightly acidic reaction.

Landing time also matters. Most horticultural crops are desirable to plant early autumn or in the middle of spring. Currant is no exception, but experienced gardeners they notice that bushes planted in winter are more resistant to diseases and are far ahead of spring seedlings in their development.

The distance between the bushes should be at least two meters. Only under this condition can the plant develop normally. When planting under trellises, it is allowed to reduce the distance between plants, maintaining a distance of one meter.

Sufficient space must also be left between rows for maintenance and harvesting. It should be at least one and a half meters. If plantings are located along a fence or building, it is necessary to leave at least a meter for the normal growth of bushes. Active watering in the first week after planting guarantees the successful rooting of the seedling.

Caring for red currants in spring

Even before the appearance of the first kidneys, it is important to carry out everything preparations. To do this, the bush is revised, frozen and damaged branches are removed.

Around the root zone, a layer of mulch is necessarily removed, in which pests can winter. The new one is made from sawdust or straw, upper layer soil loosened and thoroughly watered. It should be noted that the roots of the plant are located close enough to the surface of the earth, so loosening is carried out carefully and shallowly.

After that, you can feed the plant, perform shaping pruning and dividing the bush. To eliminate the risk of freezing of young buds, it is possible to cover the bush with polyethylene or burlap for the time of night frosts, and sprinkle the root area with sawdust.

autumn care

After the plant goes into hibernation, and this happens in late September - early October, it is imperative to prepare the currant for wintering.

To do this, it is necessary to remove the leaves, cut off old and non-fruitful branches, and perform a shaping pruning of the bush. The last top dressing is not carried out in the fall, but it is necessary to ensure good watering before frost in order to protect the root system from freezing.

Red currants are frost-resistant crops, but with a snowless winter, the roots can be damaged. A good cover will be provided by a layer of mulch or sawdust sprinkled at the base. Top can be covered with a thick film or tarp.

This must be done even before the first frost, but not in warm weather, which can provoke the accumulation of excess moisture at the roots.

bush pruning

To form a beautiful and fertile bush, sanitary and formative pruning of shoots is mandatory. Currant does not like thickening, because this reduces the yield and size of the berries. Pruning is carried out only at rest ( in early spring or in mid-autumn), so as not to injure the plant.

The formation of a currant bush is as follows:

1. The annual growth is 2 - 3 young shoots. In total, an adult bush should have about 15 - 20 branches of different ages.
2. You should not leave old non-fruitful shoots (for red currants, the "venerable" age is 7 - 8 years).
3. All shoots growing inside the bush are removed. This prevents the bush from thickening and reducing yields.
4. In the summer, it is best to pinch the tops of the bush. This stimulates the active growth of replacement shoots.

The trellis method of growing red currant proved to be excellent. To do this, the bushes are planted in a row with a stable fence. The binding of shoots is carried out according to the vine method, and all shoots that do not grow in the direction of the trellis are subject to mandatory pruning.

Few people know, but red currants can be formed in the form standard tree. To do this, even in the first year of life, all basal shoots are cut off, leaving the central trunk.

For stability, it can be tied to a vertical support. In the future, it is necessary to cut off all shoots at a distance of 30 - 50 centimeters from ground level. The tops are pinched to provoke the growth of lateral branches.

Any of the proposed options has pros and cons, each gardener decides for himself which method will be optimal for his site.

Feeding and watering

Regular watering will ensure a stable crop of currants. For this you need to use well water room temperature. For one bush - at least a bucket of water, the frequency of watering depends on the weather, but at least once every 10 - 12 days.

In the heat, you can water the bushes every other day, exclusively at the root, so as not to bring down the color and ovaries. Mulching the root area will help retain moisture longer and also provide additional top dressing.

The application of mineral fertilizers is carried out in three stages:

1. spring nitrogen fertilizers are used (ready-made complexes or organics). This stimulates the growth of shoots and leaves. Dosage calculation: 50 g of urea per 10 liters of water. In case of use ammonium nitrate the dosage is reduced to 30 g / 10 l of water.
2. Before flowering phosphorus and potash fertilizers are used so that the fruits are better tied. For one adult currant bush, 50 g of potassium and 80 g of superphosphate are used. You can use wood ash at the rate of one glass diluted in a bucket of water.
3. After the main crop is harvested, it is necessary to feed the plant with diluted manure or chicken manure. The infusion must be prepared in advance. To do this, dissolve 2 - 2.5 kg in a bucket of water. cow dung or 1 kg of chicken manure. The resulting mixture is left in a warm place for fermentation. After a week, the fertilizer is ready, but in order not to burn the roots, it must be diluted at the rate of 0.5 liters per bucket of water.

During the season, you can use folk remedies for plant nutrition, as well as regularly update the mulch under the roots of the currant. It is not recommended to fertilize in the fall, so as not to provoke the growth of shoots.

In addition, it is worth noting that the first feeding is carried out only in the second year after planting. Until this time, the plant is quite satisfied with the minerals introduced during planting.

Major diseases and pests

Many insects are not averse to feasting on juicy leaves and vitamin berries. The main pests of red currant are frequent uninvited guests on any garden plot, that's why experienced gardeners know how to deal with them.

The main diseases of red currant:

Anthracnose

A fungal disease that appears in unfavorable, too damp and cold weather. Outwardly, it looks like small brown spots, which increase in size over time and cover most of the leaves.

To combat this disease, fungicides are used, preventive spraying with Bordeaux liquid or copper sulphate has proven itself well. These drugs are also suitable for treatment, it is only necessary to increase the frequency of treatment (every week instead of ten days).

powdery mildew

A thin white "cobweb" appears, which gradually entangles the entire bush and fruits. Spraying with a 3% solution will save you from this scourge iron sulphate. The soil under the bush can also be cultivated using the special Nitrofen preparation.

goblet rust

Yellow-orange convex spots appear, which quickly spread along the leaves and stem, affecting flowers and fruits. Effective Methods treatments have not been developed, and spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is used for prevention.

striped mosaic

In the direction of the veins on the leaf of the plant, there are duplicate stripes of orange or brown. If detected in the early stages, removing the affected leaves and spraying with fungicides will help. Otherwise, it is necessary to uproot the entire bush, and disinfect the landing site.

It is believed that red currant is less susceptible to diseases than its black variety. At the same time, with thickened plantings, cases of infection of the bushes with white spotting (septoria), terry (reversion) and bacteriosis are not uncommon.

When growing red currants, difficulties can arise not only for beginners in the country business. Often, bushes are affected by root rot or aphid attacks, even with quality care. To prevent the spread of infection and protect the plant from serious damage, it is necessary to respond in a timely manner to the following alarming "symptoms".

What problems can you face:

1. Aphid defeat. Characteristic signs are developmental delay, wilting and wrinkling of leaves. Red bumps form on the surface of the leaf. Aphid colonies are usually found reverse side leaves.
2. Ognevka. This pest leaves characteristic traces of its stay - a thin cobweb that entangles shoots and fruits. You can also see small caterpillars that destroy the green parts of the plant.
3. Yellow sawfly. It lays larvae, which systematically eat leaves and young shoots of currant.
4. Spider mite. Shrinking and withering leaves, as well as sticky cobwebs on the stems - feature presence of this pest.
5. Kidney tick. It tolerates a dangerous disease - mohrovost, which is considered incurable - the entire bush is removed at once. Anomalies in the development of the plant are considered signs of damage: the shape of the leaf changes, there are no color and ovaries.
6. Moth. voracious caterpillar, completely eating leaves of berry crops.
7. Zlatka. The larvae of this pest prefer to eat the juicy pulp of the shoots.

The fight against these pests can be carried out with special preparations (Karbofos, Fury, Fufanon, Actellik, Aktara, Bankol, Confidor Tanrek, Confidant, Commander, Biotlin, etc.) and folk remedies (spraying with soap or garlic solution, sprinkling with ash). Affected leaves must be removed from the bush and burned. With a strong lesion, it is more advisable to uproot the entire plant than to allow infection of the remaining bushes.

Popular garden culture- redcurrant, does not differ in a capricious character, but requires careful attention. In order to have a good harvest, it is necessary to ensure active watering, regular pruning and top dressing of the bushes. The main subtleties of caring for red currants are discussed in our information.

Redcurrant care includes: watering, mulching, pruning, top dressing and pest and disease control.

Watering red currant

Proper watering of red currants is the key to a rich harvest. Although the red-eyed beauty is not as demanding on moisture as blackcurrant species, the lack of water has a bad effect on the growth of pets, their development and fruiting.

Usually, each redcurrant bush needs 2-3 waterings for the whole summer (with soil moisture up to half a meter). To find out if a plant needs water, dig the soil under the bushes. If the soil is dry at the bottom, watering is needed.

When growing currants, young bushes are especially in need of drinking, with dry summer season they need to be watered more often.

Currants urgently need watering during the formation and growth of berries and shoots (this is the month of June). Also, the plant needs plenty of water after harvest (August-September).

Mulching red currants

In order to preserve moisture in the soil, mulching should be widely practiced, especially in the southern regions. To do this, in the spring, after the first treatment, the surface of the soil is covered with leaves, peat or straw manure with a layer of 6-8 cm. If there is a sufficient amount of mulching materials, they cover the entire area of ​​row spacing. If these materials are not enough, then they mulch in rows, only strips about 1 m wide. Weeds breaking through the mulch are weeded out in a timely manner. Experiments show that as a result of soil mulching, the yield of currants almost doubles.

Red currant pruning

Currant bushes, like any other plants, inevitably grow old. Pruning will help update the culture. Pruning is carried out in the fall. Shoots are radically shortened, no more than 4 buds should remain. Next year, you need to carefully examine the bush and leave the three or four strongest root shoots. The weak must be mercilessly disposed of.

As shows years of experience cultivation of red currant, shoots no older than 5 years have the best yield. If the bush is older - it's time to start rejuvenating. Every year it is desirable to cut at least three old branches. If the plant is already very old, you can resort to a radical method - completely cut down the bush. The root will give new replacement shoots, which replace the old currant. Such a radical pruning can be carried out even in summer.

Red currant nutrition

When fertilizing a crop, it must be borne in mind that currants are sensitive to chlorine. Specific doses depend on soil fertility. As already noted, at present, one-time application (refueling) of phosphorus and potash fertilizers up to 500 kg / ha is recommended on industrial plantations. active ingredient followed by annual application of nitrogen fertilizers 60-100 kg/ha. d.c.

Strip deep fertilization is also used - once every 3-4 years, the soil is plowed in the aisles to make furrows 25-30 cm deep. When the content in the humus horizon is 30 mg. mobile phosphorus and 25-30 mg. potassium, these fertilizers are not necessary for currants. The optimal ratio in the leaves for the fruiting of the main blackcurrant nutrients is: N - 2.9, P205-0.60, K20-2.0% on dry matter.

This conclusion was reached by many researchers involved in sheet diagnostics. The average removal of nutrients during the harvest of blackcurrant berries is 70 centners/ha. is equal to: N - 97.6 kg, P205 - 46.2 kg, K20 - 79.6 kg / ha. Good results are also given by foliar feeding of currants; before flowering - with a solution of urea at a concentration of 0.3%, superphosphate (0.2%) and potassium sulfate (0.3%), then spraying is repeated along the green ovary, respectively, at concentrations of 0.6; 3; 0.8%. Foliar top dressing with microelements - solutions of salts of iodine, molybdenum and cobalt are especially effective.

Prevention of the appearance of diseases and pests of red currant

If they do appear - do not start with a "chemical bombardment" of your site, but try manual pest removal methods. You can also use folk remedies, and against fungal diseases - biological preparations. A good non-toxic option, such as green soap.

And only if these methods did not bring results, and the situation worsens, you can use chemical agents.

Diseases of red currant and their control

Like other species, red currants are susceptible to fungal and viral diseases. The most dangerous among them is terry. This is a very insidious virus, as it develops, it changes the appearance of the bush and leads to currant infertility. Most often, it affects black currants, but since the carrier is a bud mite that also settles on red, bushes with scarlet berries are also not immune from it. If no signs of a kidney mite were found on the currant, then the virus was transferred with planting material or through infected gardening Tools. Reversion - terry is a popular name - does not develop in one year, and the longer the infected bush remains in place, the higher the risk of disease of other plants.

Another common virus is the striped mosaic virus. On the leaves of an infected plant, along the veins, a bright pattern appears, gradually filling the entire surface of the leaf. This leads to a decrease and complete absence of yield, and death of the plant. As with terry, the bush with the virus is uprooted and burned.

Pests of red currant and their control

Currant goldfish. The larvae of this beetle pest prefer to feed on the core of redcurrant branches. At the shoot, which has undergone damage, the apex dries up, which in short time covers the entire run. As a result of this, the fruiting of the currant bush is weakened, and the berries themselves become small.

The larvae of the currant beetle hibernate inside the shoot, which has been damaged. They have a flattened shape that is widened near the head. They begin to pupate right on the run. Young bugs come out of the escape late spring and early summer. A week after departure, the females begin to lay eggs directly on the bark of young shoots, as well as on leaf petioles.

They cover their eggs with their secretions, which subsequently harden on the bark and turn into a hard oval shield. Then, on average, two weeks after oviposition, the larvae begin to emerge from the eggs, which immediately bite into the shoot and feed on its core, as well as on the wood itself.

Control measures against currant borer include cutting and subsequent burning of shoots, as well as timely pruning of currant bushes in the phase of dormant buds. Careful selection of planting material should be made.

Gooseberry sawfly. There are 2 types of gooseberry sawfly - yellow and pale-footed. Their larvae, hidden in dense cocoons, hibernate under currant and gooseberry bushes at a depth of 10-12 cm. In early spring, they pupate and, by the time of flowering, adults fly out, resembling small wasps. Females lay their eggs along the main leaf veins on the reverse side. Soon the caterpillars appear and begin to eat the leaves.

In the pale-legged sawfly, they are one-color-green, in the false caterpillars of the yellow sawfly, the body is covered with black warts.

Podzimnaya digging the ground around the bushes will destroy some of the wintering larvae. After flowering, the caterpillars can be harvested by hand. Good results are obtained by treatment with insecticides - Decis and Inta-Vir.

• Landing: in September or from mid to late April.
• Lighting: bright sunlight.
• The soil: slightly acidic or neutral chernozems, forest soils with a high content of humus or loam.
• Watering: regular and sufficient, especially during the period of active growth and formation of ovaries (at the beginning of June), as well as during the filling of berries (at the end of July or beginning of August). Consumption - 20-30 liters of water per m²: the soil should be saturated to a depth of 30-40 cm.
• top dressing: in April, urea is introduced into the soil, in June - slurry or a solution of bird droppings, although you can fertilize the soil and mineral complex. In summer, on cloudy days or in the evenings, foliar top dressing is carried out on the leaves with solutions of trace elements - boric acid, zinc sulfate, blue vitriol, manganese sulfate and ammonium molybdate. In early October, the soil around the bushes is dug up with organic matter, potash and phosphorus fertilizer.
• pruning: early spring or after leaf fall.
• reproduction: layering, dividing the bush and cuttings.
• Pests: the plant can be affected by blackcurrant fruit, gooseberry yellow and pale-footed sawflies, currant gall midges, vitreous, bud and spider mites, leaf gall and gooseberry shoot aphids, gooseberry moth, moth and biennial leafworm.
• Diseases: anthracnose, white spot, European powdery mildew, terry (growth, reversion), nectrium drying of shoots, striped mosaic, goblet and columnar rust, gray rot.

Read more about growing red currants below.

Red currant - description

Red currant bushes reach a height of 1 to 2 m. The root system of red currant is quite powerful. Her shoots are yellowish or gray, green wood with a light core. Red currant leaves are three-five-lobed, smooth and shiny on the upper side, and on the lower side of a lighter shade and sometimes with pubescence along the veins. Blossoming in May, inconspicuous red-brown or yellow-green flowers are collected in brushes. The fruits of red currant are juicy and sour-tasting red berries up to 1 mm in diameter, collected in clusters. Red and black currants are close relatives. Also related to them are white currant and gooseberry. In our gardens, redcurrants are grown just as often as blackcurrants, strawberries and raspberries, and much more often than blackberries, blueberries and blueberries just starting to master amateur gardens.

Red currant blooms much later than black, so it is less likely to suffer from return frosts. It tolerates drought more easily proper care gives richer harvests. The bush of red currant lives 30-35 years. Almost all cultivars are self-fertile.

From this article, you will learn how red currants are planted and cared for - how and when to water them, how to feed them, how to cut red currants, how to treat them for diseases and pests, and whether red currants can be grown in areas with a cool climate. In addition, we will give you a description of the varieties of red currant, and you will surely be able to choose excellent varieties for your area.

Planting red currant

When to plant red currants.

The optimal time for planting red currants is September. If for some reason you did not manage to plant red currants in the fall, you can transfer the planting to spring - to the middle or end of April.

Since redcurrant is very photophilous, it should be grown on a well-lit and ventilated southern slope. The best soils for her - chernozem, forest soils with a high content of humus and loam with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. For planting, choose one- or two-year-old redcurrant seedlings with an extensive and healthy root system about 20 cm long. Before planting, remove all leaves from the seedlings and hold their roots in a bucket of water for 2-3 hours.

Planting red currants in autumn.

2-3 weeks before the autumn planting, dig a hole with a diameter of 50-60 cm and a depth of about 40 cm. Thoroughly mix the soil taken out of the hole with 8-10 kg of peat or humus, 200 g of superphosphate and 40 g wood ash or potassium sulfate - this is a calculation for 1 plant. Pour half of the mixture into the hole, and leave the second part nearby. If you plant several bushes, dig holes for them at a distance of at least 1.5-2 m. When planting red currants along a fence or paths, step back from them at least one and a half meters.

When, after 2-3 weeks, the earth in the pit settles, lower the roots of the seedling into the hole and straighten them. Place the seedling itself straight or at an angle, deepening the root collar by 5-6 cm to stimulate the formation of additional roots and renewal shoots. When filling the roots of the seedling with a nutritious earthen mixture, shake it from time to time so that there are no voids in the roots. When the pit is backfilled, compact the soil, make a circular furrow around the seedling at a distance of 20 cm and fill it with water several times. After the water has been absorbed, mulch the area around the seedling with peat or humus, and cut the shoots at a height of 10-15 cm, leaving no more than 2-3 buds on each - this measure contributes to the formation of a well-branched bush and the development of a strong root system. Before the seedling takes root, it must be watered at least twice a week.

Planting red currants in spring.

spring planting red currants are carried out from mid to late April in the same order as autumn, with one exception: pits for seedlings and a fertile mixture are prepared in the fall, but only organic matter is added to the soil, and phosphorus and potassium are added to it before planting.

Red currant care

Caring for red currants in spring.

At the end of March, as soon as the weather permits, it is time for sanitary pruning and the formation of red currant bushes. In April, red currants are fed with urea on wet ground, and then, as soon as the top layer of soil dries out, they begin to loosen the area around the bushes to a depth of 6-8 cm. After that, level the surface with a rake and mulch the area with a layer of peat 5-10 cm thick.

If frosts return in May, during the redcurrant flowering period, you may have to protect the bushes from them with smoke. At the same time, red currants are examined in order to identify specimens infected with doubleness (growth) - on such plants, bell-shaped flowers become separate-petal. If you find single terry inflorescences, cut them off, but if the entire bush is affected, uproot it without delay.

To prevent redcurrants from becoming thirsty in spring, keep the soil on the site in a slightly damp state. Remove weeds while loosening the soil, which should be carried out to a depth of 6-8 cm once every two to three weeks. The aisles are loosened to a depth of 10-12 cm.

Caring for red currants in summer.

In June, red currants are fed with organic fertilizers. In addition to root top dressing, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of micronutrient fertilizers over the leaves. If you find moth nests, collect them from the bushes and destroy them along with the berries affected by the pest. You will most likely have to do this several times.

When it's time to harvest, pick redcurrants as they ripen in whole clusters in small trays or boxes that won't wrinkle the fruit. Currant after harvesting needs mandatory watering, followed by loosening.

Caring for red currants in autumn.

At the beginning of autumn you can do vegetative propagation red currant. At the end of September or a little later, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the pre-moistened soil in the area with red currants, after which the soil is dug up for their incorporation.

After the leaf fall, the currants are pruned, and if the autumn turns out to be dry, the winter watering of the site is carried out.

Redcurrant processing.

In early March, red currant bushes need to be awakened from winter sleep - poured from a watering can with water heated to 80 ºC. After that, on the still dormant buds, preventive treatment of bushes from diseases with copper sulphate or Nitrafen is carried out. The next prophylactic treatment of red currants from fungal diseases with the same drugs is carried out 10 days after harvest.

During the budding period, for prophylactic purposes, red currants are treated against insect pests with Actellik, Karbofos or Rovikurt preparations. Re-treatment is carried out after harvest.

Watering red currants.

Despite the fact that the red currant, due to its well-developed root system, is much more tolerant of dry conditions than the black currant, the lack of water retards its growth, and during the period of fruit formation and filling, it often leads to their crushing and even shedding. Therefore, regular and sufficient watering of red currants during the period of active growth and formation of ovaries, that is, in early June, as well as in late July and early August, when the berries are poured, becomes especially important.

Watering is carried out at the rate of 20-30 liters per m² of plot in order to soak the soil to a depth of 30-40 cm. Water is poured into circular grooves 10-15 cm deep, made at a distance of 30-40 cm from the bush. You can arrange an irrigation platform around each bush, enclosing it with an earthen roller 15 cm high. When the well-moistened soil dries, loosen the area so that a crust does not form on its surface. If you gave yourself the trouble in spring to mulch the land on the site with humus, decomposed peat or rotted manure at the rate of 10-15 kg per bush, you will have to water the site and loosen it much less often.

Top dressing of red currant.

In April, urea is added to the moistened soil at the site for embedding at the rate of 10-15 g per m². In June, red currants are fed with 1 liter of slurry infusion diluted in a bucket of water or with a solution of half a liter of bird droppings infusion in 10 liters of water. If it was not possible to find organic matter, add 10-15 g of urea under each bush, the same amount of potassium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate.

In summer, red currants need foliar top dressing trace elements. To do this, in 10 liters of water you need to dissolve up to 2.5 g of boric acid, 5-10 g of manganese sulfate, 1-2 g of copper sulfate, 2-3 g of ammonium molybdate and the same amount of zinc sulfate. Processing of red currant leaves is carried out on a cloudy day or in the evening.

In early October, red currants are fed for the last time: under each bush, 10-15 kg of organic fertilizer, 100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium chloride are added for digging. Mineral fertilizers can be replaced with a garden or fruit mixture at the rate of 500 g per bush.

When to prune red currants.

Growing red currants involves regular shaping, rejuvenating and sanitary pruning of bushes. Redcurrant pruning is carried out in early spring or late autumn when she is at rest.

The structure of the red currant is similar to the structure of the black one, but its fruiting shoots last twice as long. Fruit buds of red currant almost always form at the tops of annual shoots, and its fruitlets are located at the top of the branches, so when cutting, the tips are by no means cut off. Since the fruiting period of red currant shoots is longer than that of black currant shoots, its anti-aging pruning is not done so often.

Pruning red currants in spring.

In a one-year-old seedling of red currant, all shoots are shortened by half to the outer bud, forming a compact spherical bush. Since redcurrant is very photophilous plant and when the bush thickens, it sharply loses productivity, its bush is formed within 5-6 years from no more than 15-20 branches, and from the seventh year, in addition to sanitary pruning, which involves the removal of unnecessary, diseased, broken or dried branches, it will be necessary to carry out rejuvenating - remove branches that have served their time and regulate the growth of zero shoots. Of the zero shoots, the most developed and well-located ones are left for renewal, that is, those that grow closer to the bush, do not lie on the ground and do not intersect with other shoots. They are shortened by half the length to the outer kidney, directed upwards, and the remaining increments are cut out.

Pruning red currants in autumn.

In the autumn, after leaf fall, when the red currant bears fruit and enters a dormant period, sanitary pruning of the bushes is carried out: broken, diseased, dried or growing branches are removed. If for some reason you haven't done a formative pruning in the spring, you can do it in the fall.

Reproduction of red currant

How to propagate red currant.

Of course, you can buy redcurrant seedlings in any market, but there is no guarantee that you will be sold exactly the varieties that you decide to buy. If you do not want to experience disappointment, breed yourself. Red currant is propagated vegetatively - by layering, cuttings and dividing the bush.

Propagation of red currant by layering.

This is the simplest and most effective way to propagate a culture. For him, they choose a young bush of three, four or five years, loosen the soil under it in early spring, fertilize it, make grooves 8-10 cm deep in the soil, going from the center of the bush, put well-developed one- or two-year-old shoots in them, securely fix them in several places with metal hooks and cover the middle part of the layers with soil so that their top remains on the surface. When the shoots developing on the layers reach a height of 10-12 cm, they are spudded twice with an interval of 2-3 weeks with moist, loose soil. All summer, layering is watered abundantly, mulching the area around them with organic matter.

In autumn, the rooted and sprouted layers are separated from the mother liquor and, dividing them along the length into separate plants with a root system, are transplanted into permanent place. In two or three years, the most developed of them will already begin to bear fruit.

Propagation of red currant cuttings.

Cuttings are also a reliable method of propagation. Easier and faster rooted lignified cuttings of red currant from annual shoots grown from the root or on two to three-year-old branches. The thickness of the handle should be at least 8 mm, and the length should be 18-20 cm. planting material in the fall, after which the cuttings are laid in a box with wet sand to form the rudiments of roots and kept for 2.5-3 months at a temperature of 2-3 ºC, and then placed under the snow or in the vegetable box of the refrigerator until spring planting.

Planted cuttings in open ground in early spring obliquely at a distance of 20 cm from each other under plastic bottles or glass jars. The depth of immersion of the cutting into the ground is as follows: only two buds should remain above the ground, and the rest are immersed in the soil. The soil around the cuttings is compacted and watered, and when it dries, the area is mulched with humus or fine peat. Rooted cuttings in September are transplanted to a permanent place.

You can propagate currants and green cuttings, however, they form the root system for too long to the detriment of the ground part, so they are planted in a permanent place no earlier than a year later, and, therefore, they come into fruition later than red currants from lignified cuttings.

Reproduction of red currant by dividing the roots.

Usually, this method of reproduction is resorted to when there is a need to transplant a currant bush to another place. First, all diseased, old and broken branches are removed from the bush, after which the bush is dug up, divided into parts with a sharp sterile instrument, each of which should have well-developed roots and shoots, then the cuts are treated with crushed coal and the cuts are planted in the prepared holes for 5- 7 cm deeper than the mother bush grew. After planting, the shoots are shortened to 15-20 cm, generously watered and continue to moisten the soil daily until parts of the bush take root in a new place.

Pests and diseases of red currant

Diseases of red currant.

Red currant diseases are typical for all Gooseberries. On our website there is an article "Diseases and pests of gooseberries", which describes in detail all the dangers that await representatives of this family, so we will not dwell on each disease in detail, but simply remind you of them.

So, red currants are affected by anthracnose, white spotting, European powdery mildew, terry (growth, reversion), nectrium drying of shoots, striped mosaic, goblet and columnar rust, gray rot. In the fight against fungal diseases, fungicides such as Bordeaux liquid, Kaptan, Homitsin, Ftalan, Topsin M, Fundazol, colloidal sulfur, Kuprozan and other drugs with a similar effect showed good results. And such viral diseases, like terry and mosaic, unfortunately, no medicine can cure. In the event that the virus has affected only individual branches or inflorescences, cut them out and burn them, but if the entire bush is infected, you will have to get rid of it.

Pests of red currant.

Just like black, white currants and gooseberries, red currant bushes can be affected by blackcurrant fruit, gooseberry yellow and pale-footed sawflies, currant gall midges, glass bugs, bud and spider mites, leaf gall and gooseberry shoot aphids, gooseberry moth, moth and biennial leafworm.

The best insecticides today are Aktellik, Karbofos and Rovikurt. Good results in pest control were also shown by Aktara, Metaphos, Etaphos Ambush, Phosfamide, Vofatoks, Tedion, Tsidial, Zolon, Antio and others.

We would like to remind you that mostly weakened and neglected plants are affected by disease or insects, therefore the main protection against diseases and pests is the observance of agricultural practices of the culture and timely care. And, of course, preventive treatments of bushes in early spring and after fruiting will not interfere.

Varieties of red currant

Redcurrant is popular all over the world. IN industrial scale currants are grown in the USA, the Netherlands, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Poland, Germany, Great Britain, Latvia and Estonia. The demand for culture is caused not only by its taste, but also by the valuable medicinal properties that it possesses. We offer you an acquaintance with the most popular varieties of red currant.

Large varieties of red currant.

Large-fruited currants are represented by the following varieties:

• – Viksne– large sweet redcurrant of Latvian selection early term ripening with berries of dark cherry color and sweet and sour taste. Viksne is a winter-hardy and drought-resistant variety, almost not affected by diseases and pests. The yield from one bush is 5-7 kg;
• – Ural beauty– high-yielding and winter-hardy self-fertile variety with large red berries of a sweet dessert taste weighing up to 1.7 g. The variety is not damaged by sawflies and moths, it is also resistant to powdery mildew;
• – Fertodi- a self-fertile, fruitful, winter-hardy and fungus-resistant variety of Hungarian selection with rounded bright red berries weighing up to 1.2 g of a pleasant sweet and sour taste;
• – Darnitsa- large red currant, the weight of berries of which reaches 1.5 g. A variety of medium ripening, drought-resistant and frost-resistant, high-yielding, rarely affected by diseases. Brilliant dark red berries are used both for fresh consumption and for freezing and processing;
• – Rondom– high-yielding, anthracnose-resistant, frost-resistant late variety Dutch selection from large berries sweet and sour taste, ripening on low compact bushes.

The varieties Asora, Obsky Zakat, Ilyinka also differ in large-fruitedness.

Sweet varieties of red currant.

The most famous of the sweet varieties are:

• – Sugar- fragrant, tasty and sweet red currant, which can be eaten directly from the bush. However, the variety is characterized by low self-fertility, and for good fruiting it needs pollinators - for example, the red currant of the Natalie variety;
• – Red Cross- a variety of medium ripening with large light red berries of dessert taste, shrinking towards the end of the brush. Unfortunately, the variety is affected by anthracnose;
• – early sweet- winter-hardy high-yielding variety, demanding on the care and fertility of the soil, with medium-sized sweet light red berries aligned in size;
• – Svetlana- winter-hardy and productive variety of medium ripening with small rounded berries of light red color with thin skin;
• – Houghton Castle- Western European winter-hardy and productive variety with red berries of medium size and pleasant taste.

Early varieties of red currant.

Red currant varieties of early ripening include:

• – Victoria – high yielding variety of European origin with medium-sized berries of good taste, eaten fresh and suitable for processing;
• – crystal- self-fertile variety with yellowish round berries with a transparent skin of good balanced taste, medium or large size;
• – firstborn- frost-resistant, high-yielding and resistant to fungal infections red currant of Finnish selection, from the bush of which you can take up to 10 kg of sweet-sour, medium-sized berries that taste good. The variety is a universal pollinator for self-fertile varieties;
• – Serpentine- resistant to diseases and pests, high-yielding variety with large sweet and sour berries located on long racemes;
• – Generous- resistant to anthracnose and bud mites, high-yielding and winter-hardy red currant with light red, moderately sour berries.

famous early varieties red currants are also Dutch red, Early sweet, Laturnais, Chulkovskaya, Rachnovskaya and Konstantinovskaya.

Medium varieties of red currant.

There are much more varieties of red currants of medium ripening than early or late. Of these, most often grown:

• – Versailles Red- productive large-fruited and self-fertile variety with large red berries with a dense skin, used both fresh and processed;
• – the Rose- disease-resistant dessert variety with pink one-dimensional berries of medium size, delicate sweet taste with a slight sourness;
• – Buzhanskaya- Ukrainian high-yielding and resistant to mycosis variety with bright red large berries weighing up to 1 g, suitable both for fresh consumption and for freezing and processing;
• – Gazelle- high-yielding winter-hardy and fungus-resistant variety with small, but very tasty red berries;
• – Red Andreychenko- self-fertile, winter-hardy, high-yielding variety, resistant to fungal diseases, with red rounded berries weighing up to 0.8 g, pleasant sweet and sour taste.

In addition to those described, there are other mid-season varieties redcurrant, popular in amateur gardening: Purple, Hero, Gonduin, Reiby Castle, Star of the North, Natalie, Polyana, Samburskaya, Vika, Niva, Beloved and others.

Late varieties of red currant.

Among the varieties late deadline ripening most often cultivated in culture:

• – Valentinovka- winter-hardy, high-yielding self-fertile variety, resistant to powdery mildew, with medium-sized one-dimensional berries of a sour taste, with high gelling properties;
• – marmalade- winter-hardy, productive and resistant to anthracnose and powdery mildew variety of very late ripening with orange-red berries of sour taste, medium or large size;
• – Osipovskaya- winter-hardy, productive and disease-resistant variety of Russian breeding with dark red berries of the same size and good taste;
• – dutch red- a hardy, unpretentious, winter-hardy, productive and anthracnose-resistant variety of Dutch selection with medium-sized red berries of a sweet and sour taste with a transparent skin;
• – Lapland- winter-hardy, productive self-fertile variety with light red berries of medium and small size and excellent, delicate sweet and sour taste.

In addition to those named, late-ripening varieties Dana, Ogonyok, Orlovskaya Zvezda, Memorable, Orlovchanka, Rosita, Gift of Summer, Ural Dawns and others are grown in the culture.

The best varieties of red currant.

Taking into account such criteria as the size of the berries, their taste, the amount of vitamins and sugars they contain, as well as the degree of their winter hardiness, Viksne, Dutch red, Cascade, Ural beauty and Serpentine can be considered the best varieties of red currant.

Varieties of red currant for the Moscow region.

Redcurrant is one of the most winter-hardy berry crops, and can be grown successfully in cool climates. Red currant for the Moscow region should have exactly such a quality as winter hardiness. What varieties can we recommend for growing in the Moscow region? The best redcurrant, in addition to winter hardiness, should have other advantages - a fairly large size, a high content of vitamin C and sugars, good taste and, preferably, flavor. Varieties with the listed qualities include the following:

• – Asya- medium-early high-yielding and disease-resistant variety with dark red berries of medium size, sweet and sour taste;
• – Natalie- fruitful self-fertile and winter-hardy variety, which is highly resistant to diseases and pests. The berries of this variety are large, rounded, deep red in color and sweet and sour;
• – Jonker van Tets- winter-hardy, fruitful, disease-resistant self-fertile and early ripening variety with round or almost pear-shaped large bright red berries of a pleasant taste;
• – Rachnovskaya- high-yielding, winter-hardy self-fertile variety, resistant to diseases and pests. The berries of the currant of this variety are medium in size, red, sweet and sour;
• – Hope- extra early high-yielding winter-hardy self-fertile variety, resistant to pests and diseases, with round purple-red berries of medium size, sweet and sour taste and universal purpose.

Properties of red currant

Useful properties of red currant.

Redcurrant berries are rich in vitamins A, C, E, potassium, iron and selenium, malic and succinic acid, nitrogenous and pectin substances. They are rich in antioxidants that are able to resist cancer cells. What makes red currant useful for humans is primarily the high content of provitamin A in its berries, which is necessary for healthy hair, skin and bones, and also prevents aging.

The presence in the red currant of a unique substance oxycoumarin ensures the prevention of heart attacks and has a positive effect on the activity of the cardiovascular system. People suffering from atherosclerosis are shown daily consumption of red currants because of the pectins in it, which remove excess cholesterol and thereby prevent the formation of plaques in the vessels.

In addition, red currant improves the functioning of the stomach and intestines, increases sweating, which helps to remove excess salts, toxins and toxins from the body. It has anti-inflammatory, choleretic, antipyretic, hemostatic, cleansing and laxative properties.

Regular use of red currant juice normalizes the level of hemoglobin in the blood, relieves constipation and uric acid salts, and helps pregnant women fight the symptoms of toxicosis - nausea and vomiting. Athletes juice helps to maintain tone and restore strength after the competition. Drinking juice reduces the temperature in fevers in children and adults. It is also indicated for anemia, diabetes, loss of strength and chronic fatigue.

Compared to many other berries and fruits useful for the body, red currant is a product that does not allergic- it is prescribed even for dermatitis.

Red currant - contraindications.

But, despite such an obvious benefit of red currant, one cannot remain silent about the fact that it can harm some people. These categories include patients with gastric and duodenal ulcers, acute gastritis, hepatitis, and hemophilia. Regular consumption of red currant is undesirable for people with increased blood clotting.

A berry bush that is much less demanding in terms of care than the same blackcurrant. But still, let's not forget that without care and attention from the gardener, only weeds can grow. To provide yourself and your family with this vitamin berry on long years, it is important to responsibly approach the planting of red currants: choose a convenient place for it, properly prepare the soil, and, of course, plant it correctly at the time recommended specifically for this crop.

Choosing a place for planting red currants

The predecessor of red currant can be any crop, except for gooseberries, since it has the same pests with currants. Also, do not place a berry planter at the site of uprooting old bushes.

For growing red currants, it is recommended to choose areas with deep groundwater (they should not be located closer than 1.5 meters to the soil surface). In addition, this place must be protected from prolonged stagnation of rain and melt water, especially in spring time. If you are still unlucky to have a garden in a lowland, then you can remove excess water from the site using high-quality drainage, or a drainage ditch.

Unlike black currants, red currants cannot tolerate shading. With a deficiency of the sun, plants suffer from immunity: they often begin to get sick and undergo massive invasions of pests, slow down in growth, and the berries become smaller, which leads to a general drop in the yield of your berry. Therefore, plant red currants only in an open, bright place, protected from cold northern and eastern winds.

Red currants are fairly undemanding crops when it comes to soil preferences. It will refuse to grow except on sands, rocky soils or wetlands. The optimal pH for this plant is 6-6.5, so it must be limed. To do this, the selected one is evenly distributed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site. So, on loams with a pH of 5-5.5, it is necessary to add 300-400 grams of ground limestone or 250-300 grams of slaked lime per square meter of future plantings.

Planting time for red currants

It is customary to plant red currants both in autumn (in September) and in spring (no later than the beginning of May). At the same time, autumn planting of this crop is the best option. The fact is that in autumn the downward flow of sap flow in plants prevails, due to which they quickly take root and successfully winter. In the spring, they also move together in growth, in the summer they intensively form a powerful root system and manage to perfectly prepare for the winter. In turn, bushes planted in spring go to winter weakened and often freeze out in severe frosts. In addition, in spring, currants quickly start to grow, grow leaves, and seedlings with leaves do not take root well. You can also read about all the benefits of autumn planting.

Soil preparation for planting red currants

During the autumn planting, the soil begins to be prepared a couple of months before the expected date. If you still decide to postpone planting until spring, then soil preparation should be carried out at least 2-3 weeks before planting seedlings (but it is still better to do this in the fall).

In a red currant bush, up to 90% of the root system lies at a depth of 40 centimeters, therefore, the soil should be dug up to a depth of 40-50 centimeters before planting. At the same time, the lower clay layer can not be removed, but simply loosened with a pitchfork. Thoroughly mix the upper fertile layer with fertilizers, adding 8-10 kilograms per square meter of humus or rotted, 100 grams of superphosphate, 80 grams of potassium sulfate. In this form, the site will remain until the moment of disembarkation: during this time, the earth will slightly compact and the fertilizers will dissolve.

Purchased seedlings are delivered to the garden, trying to cause them a minimum of damage along the way. To do this, immediately after purchase, their roots are thoroughly moistened, wrapped in wet moss or burlap, and then the root system of each seedling is placed in a dense plastic bag(or film). Upon arrival at the site, it is necessary to remove the strapping and dig the plants somewhere in the garden, where they will be until planting in a permanent place.

Planting red currant

If you acted according to the above recommendations and prepared the ground for a future redcurrant plantation in advance, then in this case it will be enough for you to dig seedling holes a little more than the volume of the root system. If the purchase of a seedling was spontaneous, then dig a hole 50 × 50x50 in the selected area and fill it with a nutrient mixture from garden soil, 8-10 kilograms of humus or compost and 200-250 grams of any complete mineral fertilizer.

There are three schemes for planting red currants: single, ordinary and trellis. Single bushes, as a rule, differ maximum yield and exceptional longevity. In this case, the plants are placed at least two meters away from other trees and shrubs. Row planting allows you to maximize the number of berries harvested per unit area, but the bushes age quickly. With a single-line (trellis) planting, seedlings are planted with an interval of 0.5-1 meters from each other. For 2-3 years, a long ribbon of shoots is formed. Then set and required amount trellis: shoots are fixed on them so that a continuous fruit-bearing vertical plane is formed.

With an ordinary planting method, red currants with a lush, sprawling bush shape (Jonker van Tets, Natalie, Smolyaninovskaya) are placed at a distance of 1.2-1.5 meters in a row, and varieties with more compact bush growth (Dutch Red, Yuterborgskaya, Early Sweet ) are planted at intervals of 0.7-1 meters between individual plants in a row.

Red currants can also be planted along the border of the site along a low fence, stepping back from it by 1-1.5 meters. In particular, it will be especially convenient for trellis cultivation of this crop.

Seedlings are placed in the holes obliquely, at an angle of 45 degrees, but in principle they can be planted vertically. Plants are installed in the pits so that the level of the soil surface is 5-6 centimeters above the root neck.

When planting a red currant, its seedling should be shaken a couple of times so that the soil wakes up between the roots, and then carefully lower it into a hole in the ground and cover it with earth. Then, along the perimeter of the bush, make a shallow groove and gradually pour a bucket of water into it. Post-planting watering is important not only to ensure optimal soil moisture, but also to improve the contact of the soil with the roots. When the moisture is finally absorbed, the groove is covered with humus, loose peat, or simply dry soil. For such mulching, soil mixed with mineral fertilizers, as this can provoke burns and the death of the roots. For better survival and wintering, the soil around the seedlings can also be additionally mulched with an accessible organic layer of 5-10 centimeters.

Immediately after planting, it is necessary to shorten the branches of seedlings so that 2-4 buds remain on each. Such a cardinal pruning activates dormant buds located in the root zone, which will significantly speed up the formation of the bush. If you skip this procedure, then all the buds of the seedling will wake up and give short, weak growths that will interfere with the growth of other shoots. Thus, the full formation of the bush will be postponed indefinitely.

In my opinion, redcurrant is so little popular among amateur gardeners, since few people like its very specific nuclear-sour taste. However, this berry makes delicious jams and jellies, and frozen berries add a nice refreshing sourness to sweet fruit smoothies. In a word, a bush of this culture will not take up much space, and you will collect enough for harvesting berries.

Red currant is a perennial deciduous shrub with a height of 0.5 to 2 m. In its wild form, it is found on the edges of forests, on the banks of rivers or streams throughout Eurasia. This is a favorite berry of many gardeners; modern varieties, with good care, can produce up to 10–12 kg of juicy berries with a sour taste.

The history of growing red currants

The first mention of red currant in Western Europe belong to the 15th century. The plant was used to form a hedge, and the berries were used in medicinal purposes. Around the same time, currants began to be grown in Russia, mainly at monasteries, using berries as medicine and making tinctures from them.

A well-groomed red currant bush is very beautiful during the ripening period of berries and can decorate any garden.

Currently, the leading country in the cultivation of red currants is the United States. But even in Russia they do not forget about this culture: in almost every garden plot you can find 1-2 bushes.

Red currant is a winter-hardy plant, withstands frosts down to -40 o C. In summer, thanks to a powerful root system, it suffers much less from heat than black currant, and the life expectancy of a bush is up to 20 years without a decrease in yield.

In dry gardens without watering and human attention, red currant bushes grow up to 50–70 cm in height and produce a small crop. With regular top dressing and watering or in low-lying places where ground water are close to the ground, redcurrant grows into a powerful bush up to 2 m in height and can produce up to 12 kg of berries.

Currant blooms with inconspicuous flowers collected in a brush

Currant blooms in May with inconspicuous yellow-green flowers collected in a brush. Depending on the region and variety of currant, ripening of berries may begin by mid-June or July. Ripening is uneven: the berries that are in the sun are the first to sing. Red currants rarely fall off the bush, so they can be harvested as needed. They pick red currants like grapes - with a brush, without tearing off the berries, so they are better stored and transported.

Red currants are harvested from the bush in clusters

Redcurrant satisfies both hunger and thirst; it has a lot of vitamin C, the daily norm of which can be replenished by eating just a handful of this berry. In addition, the berry contains pectin, so redcurrant jelly is thick. Compotes, jams, jams, jelly, marmalade, tinctures, wines, liqueurs are prepared from it.

Varieties of red currant

In order to enjoy fresh redcurrant berries all summer long, you can plant varieties that differ in terms of ripening: early, mid-ripening and late. You can also pick up bushes with various shades berries: red, burgundy, pink. Some varieties of red currants perfectly bear fruit as single bushes, that is, they are self-fertile (able to be pollinated by their own pollen), while others need a pollinator neighbor.

Depending on the variety, red currant berries can be small (0.7 g) or large, reaching 1.5 cm in diameter and weighing up to 1.5 g.

Table: main varieties of red currant

Photo gallery: varieties of red currant for the Moscow region

2 weeks before planting the seedling, a hole is prepared with a diameter of 50 cm and a depth of a shovel bayonet

We mix the excavated soil with a bucket of compost (humus), a glass of ash and 200 g of superphosphate. We fall asleep again in the hole and carefully water to compact the soil.

Planting red currant cuttings

If you want to try new variety, then it is better to order planting material with a closed root system - in pots or special bags.

It is better to buy cuttings with a closed root system

Local nurseries often grow currants outdoors without pots and sell them with an open root system, so take care of the preservation of the roots in advance: take a damp rag and a bag where you wrap it lower part seedling.

The best time for planting red currants in central Russia is the beginning of autumn, literally the first days of September: the summer heat is gone, and the cuttings take root perfectly. For the southern regions, the landing dates are shifted a month later.

Stages of planting red currant:

How to save redcurrant seedlings before planting

Sometimes it happens that the purchased seedlings arrive too early in the spring, when there is still snow in the garden and planting in a permanent place is not possible.

Storing a seedling with an open root system in warm apartment is simply unacceptable. When it is not possible to place the plant in a cool basement, for example, if the buds have already opened, then you need to take a pot or planter with fertile soil and temporarily plant a seedling there.

Small seedlings obtained in autumn can be stored until spring without planting them in pots, but by laying them on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. First you need to wrap the roots with a damp cloth, and the trunks with thick paper.

Planting red currant seeds

Currant reproduces well by seeds, but very often the descendants do not repeat the qualities of the parent bush, especially if several different varieties red currants, which can be pollinated.

Usually, the seeds of a ripe berry are simply squeezed onto the soil, sprinkling them with earth. spring waters contribute to the swelling and germination of seeds, and by the end of summer small but strong seedlings grow.

Video: seed currant

Friends and foes of red currant

Many gardeners are aware of the compatibility of vegetables and specifically select pairs for better fruiting and neighborhood. But not everyone even suspects that among bushes and trees there is also mutual love and enmity.

Most often, you can observe the planting of shrubs along the fence, and black and red currants are planted side by side. Turns out, best neighbor for red currants, gooseberries are used, and black currants prefer honeysuckle as a neighbor, rather than their red-berry relatives.

The best neighbor for red currants is gooseberries

In addition, all berry bushes love planting tomatoes, marigolds, calendula, mint and others in their near-stem circle. fragrant herbs. With their essential oils they drive away various currant pests.

Red currant nutrition

In the year of planting, red currant does not need additional top dressing, because a significant amount of humus and mineral fertilizers is introduced into the pit.

In subsequent years, currants should be fed at least 2 times a year: in spring and autumn.

Table: top dressing of red currant

In addition to these dressings, it is very good to mulch trunk circle straw, grass, hay, leaves, and shed every 2 weeks with preparations containing beneficial bacteria (Siyaniye, Baikal EM-1, Vostok).

Never feed currants with nitrogenous fertilizers at the end of summer - a new growth of shoots will begin, which will not have time to prepare for winter and freeze.

Photo gallery: preparations to increase soil fertility

To rejuvenate the plant, all branches are cut flush with the ground.

1. First of all, remove old thick and dark brown branches, cutting them off at ground level.
2. Remove fattening shoots growing upwards, leaving sloping ones.
3. Remove horizontally directed lower branches.
4. Remove shoots growing inside the bush.

Red currant loves to have a bush blown by the wind, so a regular haircut is a must.

Reproduction of red currant

The easiest way to propagate currants is by cuttings or layering - in this case, the young bush will completely repeat the mother plant.

Reproduction by cuttings

1. At the end of August, when rejuvenating pruning, cut off a few shoots and cut into pieces 20-25 cm long, remove the leaves.
2. Each shoot should have 4–5 buds, make the lower cut oblique 0.5–1 cm below the bud, and the upper cut straight 1 cm above the bud.
3. Each cutting bottom dip in the Kornevin preparation and plant in the soil in a permanent place or for rooting in a separate bed with loose soil.
4. Plant the stalk at an angle of 45 °, with 2 buds immersed in the ground, and the rest should be above the ground.
5. When planting on a garden bed, leave 15–20 cm between the cuttings.
6. Water the cuttings and mulch with loose compost, peat or dry soil. Periodically monitor the soil so that it does not dry out.
7. By the end of autumn, the cuttings usually take root, and shoots appear from the buds the next spring.

Red currant stalk quickly takes root and takes root

Reproduction by layering

1. In the spring, last year's shoot is selected and bent to the ground, where a groove 5–8 cm deep has been specially dug.
2. The shoot is laid so that the crown is above the ground, and the shoot itself is in the groove.
3. The shoot is pinned to the ground with wire arcs and sprinkled with loose soil by 1 cm.
4. When sprouts appear from the buds and grow up to 10 cm, they are sprinkled with loose soil almost to the top leaves.
5. It is important to keep the soil near the layers moist.
6. Soil filling is carried out several times during the summer.
7. In mid-September, the shoot is cut off from the mother bush and carefully dug up.
8. The branch is cut into pieces according to the number of rooted shoots and planted in a permanent place.

Several shoots can grow from one layer

Treatment of red currants from pests and diseases

Plants with high immunity are rarely affected by diseases and pests, so you need to follow the rules of agricultural technology and carry out preventive spraying.

1. Plant your plants in a well-ventilated, sunny area.
2. Do not thicken plantings, leave 1–2 m between plants, and the distance to buildings should be at least 1 m.
3. Remove diseased branches or parts of the plant in a timely manner - do not allow diseases to spread.
4. Do a rejuvenating pruning of the bush for better ventilation.
5. In order to prevent in the spring, spray the currants with a mixture of drugs: Fitolavin + Farmayod + Fitoverm (dilute 1 tablespoon of each drug in 10 liters of water).
6. Every week, starting from the appearance of the first leaves, spray the currants with a bio-cocktail: dilute 2 granules of Ecoberin and Healthy Garden in 1 liter of water and add 2 drops of liquid HB-101.

Such activities make it possible to grow currants without the use of chemicals, since the proposed preparations are biological.

Photo gallery: preparations for the prevention of pests and diseases on red currants

Fitolavin helps to cope with viral diseases Pharmaiod is used for bacterial infections
Fitoverm - a biological product from pests
Ecoberin improves plant immunity Healthy Garden helps the plant cope with adverse conditions
HB-101 - natural growth stimulator and immunity activator

Biococktail increases plant immunity, reduces Negative consequences from stress: heat, temperature changes, wind.