Laying laminate without thresholds: possible problems and how to solve them. Why it is impossible to lay laminate without thresholds How to lay laminate without thresholds diagram

The laminate flooring laid with a solid floor without thresholds throughout the apartment looks solid and aesthetically pleasing. Laying laminate to form a single floor is not an easy task, requiring high quality materials, the skill and professionalism of the installer and compliance with all the features.

Recall that the laminate is classified depending on the level of strength, wear resistance. The highest strength is inherent in coatings of 31, 32, 33 and 34 classes. When laying laminate flooring with thresholds between rooms, it is possible to select different material strength classes separately for each room, in accordance with the load.

When laying laminate without thresholds, its class is selected according to the maximum load of a room in the apartment and is applied throughout the apartment. Those. for the installation of laminate without thresholds, you should choose a coating of at least 33 strength class.

When laying laminate without sills, the substrate must first be laid. The optimum thickness of the substrate is 3 mm.

Laying laminate flooring without thresholds

The installation of a laminated coating in several rooms at once with a solid floor, without gaps in the doorways, we will call “laying without thresholds”. The technology aims to achieve a visual expansion of space and decorativeness. This design technique creates the effect of a single space, spaciousness in the apartment.

It is impossible not to remind and not to warn that manufacturers of laminated coatings do not recommend to carry out such a continuous laying of laminated material over a large area. This is explained by the property of laminated panels to change linear dimensions with changes in humidity and temperature in the room.

With an increase in air humidity, for example, in autumn, the laminate, which has the ability to absorb moisture in certain quantities, does this and begins to expand. To do this, when installing the coating, they leave gaps of 8-10 mm in size, allowing these expansions, as a result, the floor retains its appearance and integrity, without swelling and creaking of its panels.

During the heating season, the reverse process is observed. Laminate shrinks slightly due to lower moisture content in the air. If mistakes were made during the installation of the floor covering, non-compliance with the technology - gaps may appear between the panels, the condition and functionality of the locks deteriorate.

A prerequisite for the perfect installation of the laminate is the special creation of an expansion joint that separates some part of the coating from the rest of the floor. According to the instructions, the maximum allowable area of ​​a continuous laminate flooring cannot exceed 50-100 square meters, the number is determined for each specific material. For example, for a Belgian coating, the size of a whole canvas for the floor is allowed: length 10 m, width also 10 m. Then, after ten meters of length and width, a gap should be left to compensate for changes in the physical dimensions of the material. For other laminated panels, the dimensions may be smaller, with actual lengths of 8m, widths of 6m, or less. They often require gaps.

How to find out exactly the maximum area of ​​\u200b\u200blaminate without thresholds that is allowed for laying in the entire apartment? The answer to this question and many others regarding a particular laminate can be found in the instructions that come with each package of panels.

Outcome: The flooring manufacturers do not recommend laying laminate as a solid floor without using thresholds. This is explained by the high probability of deformation of the coating during the “walking” of dimensions, which may result in swelling of the material, cracks, and creaking. Specialists-professionals correctly calculate the permissible parameters of the material and lay the laminate with a single sheet without thresholds.

How to lay laminate without thresholds

First, it is necessary to properly prepare the base, making its surface as level, smooth and dry as possible. Even small height irregularities should be corrected in advance. For leveling, a thin layer of self-leveling floor, covering with plywood sheets, etc. can be used. Concrete screed can be perfectly straightened with a grinder, it will make the base surface perfectly even. Only then can you plan and start laying your laminate floor.

We advise you to first draw on paper the layout of the premises in the apartment and distribute the arrangement of the panels, keeping the dimensions to scale. This will greatly simplify the laying process and reduce the amount of waste when cutting the material.

To lay the panels with a solid panel in the place of the doorway, apply the principle of brickwork, when the next row comes with an offset of about a quarter of the size of the board relative to the previous row. The most correct would be the location of the panels in the direction of movement, which will reduce the load on their joints in the form of abrasion. The installation of the coating should begin with a larger room, from the corner from the side of the window towards the door.

In the doorway, the laminate is laid in the same way. The floor is brought to the door frame, to a snug fit to the casing.

Experts consider it right to install the door frame after flooring. If this is difficult to do, then they file the fittings in order to bring the lamella under the casing. Then, in the center of the passage, several long, uncut boards are laid out, and cut ones are added from the sides. Don't forget about the gaps along the walls.

When laying the laminate across the passage through the doorway, the cut panels in the passage are laid in the standard way and are fixed with a locking connection with the main sheet. It is good to apply a joint treatment gel to increase the seal.

Video: laying laminate with one sheet in one direction

Non-threshold laminate flooring: pros and cons

If we compare which method of laying a laminate floor is preferable - with or without thresholds, then the answer is definitely with thresholds. In case of categorical unwillingness to install thresholds, profiles on the laminate, you should look for experienced professionals who are able to perform the laying of the laminate with a solid floor without thresholds at a good level.

Consider the advantages and disadvantages of the method.

• effective floor, spaciousness;
• there are no obstacles in the form of sills that you can stumble on;
• Easy to clean laminate flooring.

• violation of the manufacturer's instructions for laying the material, there is no guarantee;
• the occurrence of cracks, swelling of the surface is likely due to the “walking” dimensions of the panels;
• with a defect in one board, it may be necessary to parse the coating in several rooms;
• search for a good specialist, the cost of installation is more expensive.

As you can see, the non-threshold styling has more disadvantages than advantages.

A huge variety of profiles, thresholds for the design of joints of floor surfaces should be taken into account. They differ in materials, shapes, decor and colors, fastening methods:

• thresholds for laminate with hidden or decorative fastening;
• self-adhesive sills;
• flexible profile that allows you to design wavy joints.

The main types of thresholds

From above, the threshold is covered with a decorative layer, which makes it possible to accurately match the product to the mating surfaces in color.

Threshold between tiles and laminate at different levels

• Flexible PVC Profile very good for decorating joints of various shapes with bends, curved sections. It can also be used for straight joints. This is a flexible threshold between tiles and laminate, laminate and laminate.

The profile consists of a base and a decorative nozzle. Can dock surfaces at different levels. The variety of shapes and a wide range of profile shades contribute to its frequent use.

Cork compensator is often used in the design of the connection of tiles and laminate without a threshold, the joint between a laminate and a laminate without a threshold in the same level. Provides a change in the dimensions of the laminated product without a gap. It performs docking on a line no more than 6 m. From above, the compensator can be painted using a colored sealant.

Note that the use of a cork compensator for the junction of two surfaces clearly requires that the surfaces be strictly on the same level.

CONCLUSION

Now you know how to lay a laminate with a solid floor without thresholds, what features and disadvantages are inherent in this method, you know what thresholds for laminate and tiles exist, what thresholds there are on a laminate floor, you know several types of threshold fasteners.

It remains to embody your knowledge, desires and skills in the design of your floor. We wish you success and excellent results!

It is strongly not recommended to cover an area of ​​more than 120 square meters with laminate without joints throughout the entire apartment due to the fact that the chance of swelling of the coating will be very high.

First of all, you need to prepare the surface on which the laminate will be laid. It should be perfectly even, the height difference on it should not exceed three centimeters of the depression and the height must be puttied and cleaned. Since the laying of the laminate will be without joints throughout the apartment, you need to immediately calculate the height of the doors between the rooms. It will need to be adjusted so that the door opens and closes freely with a distance of about a centimeter between it and the floor.

To work with laminate, you only need a few tools:

1. roulette;
2. jigsaw;
3. pencil;
4. construction meter;
5. square.

You should not buy specialized saws, measuring tools and electrical appliances for laminate. Most of them are promotional gimmicks or simply over-functional.

And of course you need to choose a laminate which is divided into:

• glossy / silky-glossy;
• natural;
• waxed;
• textural / embossed;
• matte;
• country;
• wood.

Each of them differs in price and purpose, up to specific types of premises, and you need to consult with the seller about the choice of one or another laminate.

It is very important to make sure that the humidity in the rooms where the laminate will be laid will not exceed the norms allowed by the material. Otherwise, the material, drying out, will deform and swell.

If you are going to lay the dies on a rough base of wooden boards, then do not be lazy and check each of them. Be sure to replace rotten and deformed boards. If among them there are boards with cracks, do not hesitate, but replace them no matter what the tree leads. Do not forget that the laminate on such a base lies in the same direction as the boards.

On the base, cement screed or just the floor, you need to put a substrate. As a rule, it is polyethylene foam or cork material. Such a substrate is needed not only for insulation and sound insulation, but also to protect the flooring from deformation, which will significantly extend the life of the floor. If you have difficulty finding a suitable material for the substrate, you can take embossed cardboard and lay it out in several layers, fasten it with tape. The thickness of the substrate should be only 2 - 4 millimeters.

Do not try to use an old high pile carpet or carpet as a rough base. Such a base, although it will not need a substrate, will be too soft.

As a rule, the base of the dies is made of wood. This means that when moisture enters, they can expand. Therefore, it will be necessary to leave technical gaps along the walls with a size of 5 - 10 millimeters. In order to make such gaps and not be distracted by the constant adjustment of the unevenness of the already laid dies between the wall and the laminate, insert plastic plugs, and simply remove them after installation is completed.

Laminate installation options

When the preparation for the upcoming laying is completed, you will need to choose the option of laying the laminate without joints throughout the apartment that suits you. There are two methods with their own advantages and disadvantages.

The first option used to be very common, as it did not have a worthy competitor. This is a variant in which each stacked dice is attached to the previous dice with glue. Thanks to this, the gaps in the laminate become airtight, which makes it protected from moisture and dust. Moisture-resistant fiberboard is perfect for it as a base, since then the “floating” floor will not give deformations. But such a floor will be impossible to dismantle or correct even the smallest mistake made during installation.

The second option is the so-called "castle". It is convenient and practical, but more expensive, since the panels are equipped with snap-on profiles. Using it, you will have a huge scope for precise adjustment of the floor, which will make it much easier to lay the dice, avoiding joints in the doorway. Also, a lot of laminate flooring made from a wide variety of materials is made with locks that allow you to lay it in any direction. The good news is that if necessary, the entire floor or part of it can be easily disassembled, and the installation itself is much faster than in the case of adhesive masonry.

Rules for laying laminate

First you need to remember firmly that the larger the area on which the laying is done, the greater the chance of floor swelling. In order to avoid this between the plates and walls, pipes, corners of rooms, protrusions from the floor, it is necessary to make gaps. Try to make them in 1 - 1.5 centimeters. After laying, such gaps are easily hidden with the help of a plinth, which is attached to the wall and in no case to the floor.

Lay only in dry, warm rooms with the expectation that you lay the entire laminate in one pass to avoid deformation of the laminate surface.

In doorways, the fit must be done very carefully, taking into account not only the indents from the jamb, but also the fact that in the dies it will be necessary to cut recesses in the expectation that they immediately go to the next room. If the fit is wrong, all the indents for one room will be an obstacle in order to make such in the next.

If your design decision involves joining a laminate with another coating within the room, then artificial cork will suit you to skillfully close the gap between the materials. Its application is very similar to mounting foam. From a pistol, they fill the space with it, then, after solidification, they cut off the excess. It does not rot and due to its properties it can both shrink and stretch, which will prevent deformation of the laminate and the material adjacent to it.

Properly executed laying of laminate without joints throughout your apartment as a single canvas will make your floor beautiful, durable and reliable. The most important thing is not to make mistakes when laying and take into account the nuances of installation in difficult places.

Laying laminate without thresholds in apartments and houses has become a fashion trend in recent years. You can find many advantages in this: the floor looks even, there is no possibility of tripping, and dust does not accumulate in these places.

To equip the floor in this way is not entirely simple, but if you have certain knowledge, you can get an absolutely smooth and reliable floor covering.

What you need to know before installation

Equipping a laminate without thresholds, the result is a laid floor-monolith throughout the room.

If at least one mistake is made during installation, dismantling will have to be carried out over the entire area, so the following information must be taken into account:

Laying the laminate in a continuous web should be carried out on a perfectly flat plane of the subfloor. Height differences should be up to 3 mm, technical gaps at the walls - up to 10 mm.

To perform even masonry, it is best to insert plastic plugs between the walls and the material, and then pull them out.

To lay a laminate without thresholds qualitatively, you need the appropriate material. As you know, laminate can be of different strength classes: 23, 31.32, 33, 34th, and each is used in the appropriate premises.

The larger the number, the higher the class and the stronger the material, respectively, and its service life will be longer. You also need to pay attention to the density of the board and the quality of the castle joints.

Pros and cons of laying laminate flooring without thresholds

How to choose the best styling method?

You can lay the planks on glue or fix them with locks located on the side surfaces.

Laying laminate throughout the apartment without thresholds can be done in different ways. This may happen:

1. With glue. The boards are glued together very tightly without gaps. Thus, laminate flooring can be laid in rapidly polluted rooms on a moisture-resistant fiberboard base. Errors must be absolutely excluded here, floors mounted in this way cannot be disassembled.
2. Another way is glueless (castle). It is very popular in construction, it is convenient and practical. The cost of the material with the snap method is higher, but it has greater reliability and accuracy of fit. Many varieties of laminate have a locking connection method, they allow you to lay laminate dies even at half an angle. For more information on installation methods, see this video:

Installing laminate flooring in doorways

When laying laminate in a doorway, some skill is required.

The work of placing this material in doorways is considered the most difficult.

In these areas, it is placed in one direction, in which case the room will visually increase and no boundaries are visible.

When laying out a large area with a laminate, the floor can rise from the expansion, so a gap of up to 1.5 cm is needed between the laminate, walls, pipes and other existing elements. Subsequently, it is fixed with a plinth, which is glued or fixed to the wall.

In places between rooms and doorways, fitting should be done especially scrupulously. This will take more time than usual, you need to cut out the notches at the dies with the calculation of deviations from the jambs. For more information about manipulation, see this video:

In order to maximize space, it is best to start laying laminate without thresholds from the window.

The room should not have high humidity or low temperature. The material is recommended to be used with a locking method of connection and there should be no stops of lamellas in solid structures.

When laying laminate without thresholds in rooms with high humidity (bathroom or kitchen), it is better to use an adhesive connection method. A combination of material with tiles is also used.

When connecting laminate dies in different rooms, joints are arranged so that a sharp transition between the panels is not visible.

After careful work on the continuous laying of the laminate, you can enjoy the absence of interfering thresholds without end.

The laminate flooring laid with a solid carpet throughout the apartment looks aesthetically pleasing and soundly. It is comfortable to move around. The absence of thresholds simplifies the cleaning process. But is everything so clear? In this article, we will look at different sides of this issue. We will tell you under what conditions laying a floor without thresholds makes it possible to enjoy its benefits, and under what conditions it can create problems.

Laying laminate in an apartment without thresholds

To obtain the desired effect from laying laminate flooring without thresholds throughout the apartment, certain mandatory requirements must be met. Their violation is fraught with negative consequences that can outweigh the attractiveness and comfort obtained as a result of this method of flooring.

It should be noted that all laminate manufacturers unambiguously recommend performing work with a tear in the doorway. When laying rooms with a large area, it is necessary to make expansion joints, which make it possible to compensate for the processes of seasonal expansion of the plates.

Multi-layer floor coverings are a derivative of wood, retaining its ability to absorb moisture from the air and on direct contact. During periods of wet weather, fluctuations in air temperature, when flooded with water, such processes inevitably lead to physical expansion of the plates. Violation of the recommendations for their laying will result in swelling of the coating, squeaks or the appearance of cracks between the dies. This may degrade the strength of the locking connection or cause the dice to fall out. Manufacturers of German and Belgian products refer to 100 m2 (or a room of 10 by 10 meters) as the maximum solid floor area for flooring with a single carpet. For products manufactured on Russian lines, this area is 48 m2 (or a room of 8 by 6 meters).

The risk of performing a seamless laminate flooring over a large area or throughout an apartment / house can only be taken by experienced craftsmen who are well aware of the parameters of the physical expansion of the material, its installation technology and are able to flawlessly perform work in specific conditions. The first condition is to prepare an ideal foundation for further work. In this case, it is better to exclude even surface level fluctuations permissible by the manufacturer.

IMPORTANT. The base of the floor must be perfectly level.

This effect is achieved in different ways, depending on which base is leveled. It can be:

• liquid leveling mixtures / thin-layer self-leveling floors - for a concrete base;
• impeccably executed flooring from OSB boards, plywood;
• leveling with a scraper or grinder - for a wooden floor.

It is allowed to level the concrete floor with a mosaic grinder.

Information regarding the maximum allowable area on which laminate can be laid without thresholds is contained in the instructions placed on the inserts in packs of dies. The parameters of the permissible moisture content of the base and other recommendations regarding the installation of the material are also indicated there.

IMPORTANT. The entire surface of the base for mounting must be brought to zero. After that, it is brought to a perfectly clean state.

Performing flooring work in two or more rooms with one carpet without a threshold requires professional knowledge and skills. Performing such work by a non-professional is possible only after careful preparation.

Laminate is classified according to the level of strength. A higher grade will ensure the appropriate quality of the coating and a long service life. When choosing, you should pay attention to the tightness of the connection of the dies and the quality of the joints. When choosing a class of material for flooring without thresholds, they are guided by the most intensively used premises. Otherwise, the coating in it will become unusable much earlier than in others. This will force the entire surface covered with one carpet to be replaced earlier.

The implementation of flooring in a private house will require the installation of hydro and thermal insulation layers, which are laid across the direction of installation of the laminate. The underlay is made with an overlap of about 10 cm.

IMPORTANT. Before starting work, the laminate must be in the same room for at least 2 days. Installation should not be carried out in high humidity. Its level must be acceptable specified in the instructions for the material.

At the junction with walls, door frames, pipes or other objects, it is imperative to leave technological gaps.

Advantages and disadvantages of this method

Professionals and manufacturers favor laminate flooring with thresholds. Work without thresholds is resorted to in cases where the threshold profiles do not fit into the design project of an apartment or house, or they are categorically not perceived by the customer.

We list the main advantages and disadvantages of the method without thresholds:

The table shows that flooring without thresholds has more minuses than pluses. In addition, manufacturers of decorative joints offer a wide range of stone, wood and other materials of various shades and shapes. With their help, you can create smooth joints, rounded and more complex shapes.

How to lay laminate without thresholds

For the rational use of the material, it is desirable to make accurate measurements and perform a scaled layout of the plates on paper, taking into account the direction of their installation. You should start work from the wall with a window in the largest room and move towards the exit.

Further operations are performed in the following sequence:

at the dice of the first row, you need to cut the lock;

along the perimeter of the room, purchased wedges or home-made gaskets ≈ 12 mm wide are placed close to the walls to create a technological gap for expanding the dies without swelling (they are removed at the end of work);

• pre-laying the first row to determine the length of the last lamella;

IMPORTANT: If the pre-laying of the first row shows that the last lamella needs to be cut by more than two thirds, shorten by one third the length of the first lamella in the row.

after laying the first row, all subsequent rows are mounted with a shift of 1/3 or 1/2 of the length of the lamella (the same over the entire area).

It is not necessary to increase the technological gap in order to avoid swelling of the coating, as this leads to the formation of gaps between the lamellae.

Laying laminate in two rooms without a threshold

Laying laminate in a doorway without a threshold between rooms will require special attention and preparation. Professionals believe that the flooring should be installed before the door frame is installed. In this case, the laminate is cut to the shape of the doorway. If the door is already installed, it is necessary to remove the door leaf, and make a cut in the door frame, into which to insert the lamella. The cut is made with the expectation that there is no pressure on the laminate, the gap should be ≈ 10 mm. To do this, a lamella with a substrate is laid on the subfloor next to the door frame, a horizontal line is marked (taking into account the gap), along which a cut is then made. After installing all the lamellas, a plinth is installed. If the room with the laminate is adjacent to the kitchen in which the tiles are laid, the dies that are joined to the tiles must be cut as accurately as possible, and the joint should be rubbed with a special grout.

Laying laminate is not as easy as it seems at first glance. This process has a lot of nuances, the observance of which is important for the successful completion of the procedure. And the correct joining of the laminate between rooms, as well as with other coatings, just refers to these aspects of proper installation. The procedure is simple, but it is important to know how to join the laminate between rooms. Only with the necessary knowledge, it will be possible to create neat and beautiful floors.

How to dock laminate and tile - photo

This material, which is a rectangular long slats, which consist of several layers, is one of the most sought after floor coverings on the market. It is characterized by high strength, attractive appearance, ease of installation. The coating itself, created from a laminate, can serve for many years if strips of the appropriate quality were used for the manufacture, and they were correctly laid.

On a note! The thickness of one lamella varies between 9-11 mm. The width is 19.5 cm, and the length of the bar can be up to 185 cm.

The coating consists of several layers, its base is made of fiberboard, and other layers are located above and below it. From above, the coating is covered with a special protection made of melamine resin, under which there is a layer responsible for giving the material a certain color (for example, imitation of a cut of wood or stone). The bottom layer also performs a protective function. Thanks to the top layer, the coating is not afraid of exposure to ultraviolet rays, moisture and other external factors.

Laminate does not like water, and its side, unlike the bottom or top, usually does not have moisture protection. That is why it is important to correctly lay the material so that there are no gaps between the individual lamellas. However, often when laying the flooring in an apartment between separate rooms or other rooms, you have to join the lamellas - it is not always possible to lay the laminate with one continuous cover. Also, often this type of coating is joined with other types of materials for finishing the floor - for example, tiles, linoleum, etc.

On a note! Since laminate does not like water, it is rarely installed in rooms with high humidity. These are kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms. Ceramic tiles usually take their rightful place there. And it is also very important to properly and beautifully dock with the laminate.

Prices for laminate "Tarkett"

tarkett laminate

Why you need a connection

Why is it so important to correctly arrange the joints of the laminate between rooms? There are several correct answers to this question:

• individual sections of the coating are sometimes easier to dock between rooms than to continue to lay out the coating all over;
• according to the recommendations of experts, every 7-8 meters between the rows of laminate should be gaps about 10-15 mm wide. They are necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the slats;
• the design of the joints is necessary for joining different types of laminate, the interlocks of which do not match;
• the procedure is performed with a combination of lamellas of different colors or different coatings when zoning a room;
• it is also indispensable in the design of steps, if the room has a podium.

By itself, the locking connection between the lamellas is quite strong and reliable; it will not allow individual parts of the coating to walk. But the laminate is a “live” coating, it is able to change its dimensions depending on the temperature and humidity of the air, either expanding or narrowing. That is why the presence of deformation gaps is necessary. Still, the laminate has in its structure a wood component, which reacts sharply to changes in humidity and temperature.

On a note! Such deformation gaps must also remain along the walls along the perimeter of the room. Otherwise, the coating may bulge over time.

Thus, it is necessary to do the joining of individual parts of the coating and not always the reason is that it is required to connect the floors in separate rooms. It will also look ugly if you leave different types of coatings without joining.

How to join laminate

Connecting individual laminate planks between two rooms can be done in several ways. It can be docking with locks, directly available on the lamellas, docking with thresholds, cork compensator or adhesive mixtures such as sealants or mounting foam.

lock connection suitable if the same planks of the coating are joined, having the same structure and height. Simply put, when lamellas from the same batch are used. In this case, the locks will match exactly. Also, the method is suitable for small premises, where additional compensation gaps between the coating areas are simply not needed.

Nuts are used more often than other elements for docking. This is due to the simplicity of their installation, availability and low cost - you can buy sills at any hardware store for little money. The profile is simply screwed or glued (depending on the type of product) to the gap remaining between the laid sections of the coatings. This gap will be sufficient so that the lamellas can easily expand if necessary, and the coating will not rear up. By the way, sills can be made from a variety of materials, but standard metal ones are most often used. Their length can also vary.

On a note! With the help of thresholds, you can join a variety of types of floor coverings to each other, including laminate with ceramic tiles or laminate with linoleum.

It is usually used only to connect two sections of a laminated coating, less often - to connect different types of coatings. Such a product will allow you to avoid the presence of gaps on the floor at all, since the cork is a rather soft material and when the coating expands, it will simply wrinkle, and when it shrinks, it will return to its original shape again. The cork compensator is laid already immediately after the installation of the entire coating - with the help of a small spatula, as it were, it is inserted into the cavity of the remaining gap. Usually the cork is not even visible to the naked eye, since the color rarely differs from the coating itself. And if necessary, it can be tinted with a marker or paint.

Sealant and foam are used less often as they can stain the surface of the coating. But on the other hand, with their help, you can hide gaps of any width and join sections of coatings that have rather bizarre shapes. It is important to immediately remove excess material after application, otherwise after drying they will leave ugly marks. The main disadvantage of the method is the impossibility of dismantling this section of the panels if necessary. Also, due to the sealant, the lamellas cannot expand, which means that the method can only be used in small areas.

Sometimes connecting elements are produced together with the laminate. They are ideal for joining individual sections of the coating. They cost, as a rule, more than universal connecting elements. Typically, only large and well-known manufacturers of laminated flooring produce such options.

Types of connecting strips

All connectors for individual sections of flooring can be divided into several categories. They are divided by the type of material from which they are made, as well as by shape.

Table. What can sills be made from?

Combined floor in the hallway - tiles and laminate

Also, profiles for decorating joints can have a different shape. They are:

• direct- these are used to form joints between two types of laminate or between a laminate and other coatings. The main thing is that they have the same height, otherwise it will be inconvenient to fasten the sills;
• transitional- this version of the nut is useful just for joining multi-level coatings;
• corner- such a threshold is useful if you need to connect two perpendicular surfaces to each other, for example, when decorating podiums and stairs;
• final– allow you to close the edge of the last lath of the laminate.

What to consider before starting installation work?

Before you start joining two separate sections of a laminate flooring or connecting it to another type of floor finish, you should take into account several features and make sure that all the necessary requirements for the working conditions have been met. For example, the installation of a laminate and its docking can only be carried out if the rough base is perfectly even. There shouldn't be any gaps.

On a note! The maximum horizontal deviation of the floor prepared for laying the laminate should not exceed 2 mm.

Also, do not lay and immediately acquired laminate. He must necessarily lie down in the room for two days before starting work. Otherwise, the coating will most likely heave over time, and even the presence of compensation gaps will not save the situation.

Installation of laminate can only be carried out at positive temperatures. Work begins from the farthest corner of the room from the exit. It is also recommended to orient the lamellas along the direction of incidence of light rays, so the joints between the lamellas will be minimally noticeable.

Mounting of connecting strips

Let's see how the installation of connector thresholds is carried out, which are necessary for joining individual sections of the laminate between rooms.

Step 1. The first step is to measure the threshold and doorway. It is necessary to make sure that the product enters the opening and completely closes the deformation gap along the entire length.

Step 2 The threshold is applied to the installation site, markings are applied through the holes in it, which will allow you to outline the drilling points of the rough base. Dowel holes should be drilled in the center of the gap and not on the surface of the laminate. The location of the nut is also noted.

Step 3 At the marking site, holes are made in the subfloor. The diameter of the drill should be optimal for the size of the dowels included with the nut.

Step 4 Dowels are inserted into the holes made in the floor.

Step 5 The sill is placed in its intended place.

Step 6 The strap is fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into plastic dowels and tightened tightly.

On sale there are also sills with hidden fasteners. In this case, you will have to act as follows.

Step 1. As in the previous case, the threshold and doorway are measured, and then markings are applied to the subfloor in the places where the dowels will be inserted.

Step 2 The nut with hidden fasteners has a groove on the reverse side into which the heads of the self-tapping screws are inserted. The dowels are screwed onto the self-tapping screws immediately.

Step 3 According to the previously applied marks, holes are made for the dowels.

Step 4 The nut is attached to the gap, which must be closed with it. Dowels fixed on self-tapping screws, moving along the groove, are inserted into the holes made by the perforator.

On a note! There are also self-adhesive sills on sale, on the wrong side they have a special adhesive tape that allows you to fix the product in the right place.

Video - Nut mounting option

Joining laminate and tiles

If you need to join the laminate and tiles, you can proceed in the same way as when installing metal thresholds, or you can use another version of the docking profile - a cork compensator.

Step 1. To install a flexible cork expansion joint, you will need to cut it not only to the required length of the doorway, but also in height so that it does not protrude above the surface of the coatings.

Step 2 The laminate at this stage has already been laid, you need to start laying the tiles. But first, the cork sill itself is glued to the base with the help of reliable building glue. First, glue is applied to the rough base along the edge of the laminate, on which the threshold is then laid, but is not temporarily pressed.

Step 3 Acrylic sealant is also used to seal the gaps between the cork compensator and the laminate. Then the cork expansion joint is pressed against the subfloor and the laminate.

Step 4 Excess sealant is removed with a sponge dipped in water. The surface is then wiped with a dry cloth.

Step 5 In the traditional way, on the other side of the cork compensator, ceramic tiles are laid on the glue.

In general, joining laminate and tiles is necessary to achieve aesthetic harmony, extend the life of coatings, and protect the joint from water.

Video - Option for joining laminate and tiles

It is not difficult to join individual sections of a laminate or different types of floor coverings to each other. The main thing is to know how it's done. In general, if you follow the installation instructions, difficulties should not arise even for novice craftsmen.