How to properly form a tomato bush on the balcony. Growing tomatoes on the balcony

Note that this is only a small part of the varieties that exist. These varieties and many others are bred by breeders specifically for growing in balcony conditions. Let's take a closer look at one of the popular varieties. For example, Balcony Miracle - tomatoes that grow well and bear fruit on balconies. Indoor tomatoes Balcony Miracle - abundant fruiting and exquisite taste

Characteristics of the tomato variety Balcony miracle

• This type of tomato belongs to the determinant varieties of tomatoes, that is, the growth height of the plant is limited (no more than 50 centimeters). This is an ultra-early crop. It is intended for growing on loggias, balconies, verandas. However, it is also suitable for growing in open ground.

Please note: This tomato variety is suitable for both salads and pickling. In addition, the above-ground system is particularly decorative, and the fruits are of wondrous beauty.

• Each bush can please you with a crop of 2 kg of tomatoes. This variety does not require a garter. The term until full ripening is on average 85-90 days; It has not large fruits, their weight is about 65 grams, the shape is round, the color is bright red .

Please note: Balcony miracle tomatoes - growing this variety is great at home. Especially considering the main advantage - the possibility of harvesting early. Balcony tomatoes in the ripening stage Please note: Tomatoes can be grown both on a sunny balcony and on a shaded one. The main point is the good lighting of the balcony. It is desirable that the sun appears on the balcony for at least 3 hours.

Highlights in growing tomatoes for balconies or loggias

Sowing seeds

• Tomato seeds are sown in February - March. The soil mixture is poured into cups and watered some time before the seeds are planted on the balcony with warm water. It is not necessary to soak the seeds, they can be sown dry. Place 2 grains in plastic or paper cups. The seed laying depth is about 1 - 1.5 centimeters. After the seedlings have appeared, the stronger plant is left, while the other is pinched, but not removed.

soil for tomatoes

For growing seedlings of future tomatoes, there are several options for the soil mixture, for example, you can take:

• Ready-made substrate called "Living Land"; Soil mixture "Tomatoes"; One part of peat + soddy land + manure humus.

Seedling care

Watering

Seedlings are not watered often: about once a week, or even once every 10 days. In this case, the water should not be cold (room temperature) and separated.

Air temperature

In the room where seedlings are grown, the air temperature should not exceed: during the day - 20-22 degrees, and at night - not lower than 16 degrees. Tip: At elevated air temperatures, you should ventilate the room, for example, by opening a window. cool air did not get on the seedlings. The grown seedlings of future tomatoes

top dressing

Before planting seedlings in a permanent place, it is advisable to feed 3 times. Fertilizers can be purchased at any specialized store. Dosages can be found on the packaging.

• The first top dressing is carried out after the appearance of sprouts on the 12th day. The second top dressing is carried out 10 days later relative to the first. The third top dressing is carried out a week before planting seedlings in a permanent place.

Important: If you want to get perfect seedlings, in other words, beautiful and even, you should turn the cups with seedlings every few days to turn the other side to the light.

Planting seedlings

It is best to plant each seedling in a separate pot, but you can also use long balcony boxes for plants and flowers for this purpose. Watered seedlings in advance are removed from the cups and transplanted into the middle of the pot.

Caring for tomatoes on the balcony

• Tomatoes, including balcony tomatoes, are sun-loving and light-loving plants. They should be placed in the sun. It is necessary to prevent waterlogging of the soil or drying out. Watering tomatoes is carried out in dry weather every other day, only under the root.

Tip: In order to speed up the process of development and formation of fruits, you can perform the following action, it is called “tearing the roots.” You need to take the plant by the lower part of the stem and gently pull it up. How to try to pull it off the ground, so the small roots break off. After that, water the plant and spud the ground around it. Small-fruited tomatoes - harvesting Please note: For the entire period of growth and ripening, it would be nice to feed the tomatoes. pour a bush, for example, a few tablespoons of wood ash.

Output

Vegetables in the garden on the balcony - useful and beautiful gardening. This will bring special joy to true connoisseurs of plants. Growing tomatoes on a balcony is easier than other vegetable crops. They do not require close care, so this task is easily feasible.

Feel free to create original compositions, and your balcony will be a unique island of nature.

Pinching ( pinching, pinching, pinching) is the removal of the top of a young shoot above the leaf (growth point). Pinching can be done with your fingers, but it is still better to use scissors. When you remove the growth point, the plant will immediately begin to form new ones, sometimes one, but usually two or more.

Why do a pinch?

The main goal of this very important manipulation is to increase and improve the yield. And it must be done in a timely and correct manner. The tops of the shoot must be pinched above the leaf that was formed after the last inflorescence of those needed to ripen the crop matured. Each plant has its own growing season, but there is one rule: topping should be done no later than three weeks from the planned date of the last mass harvest fruits.

How to pinch cucumbers

The need for pinching cucumbers is caused by the specific feature of laying predominantly male flowers on the main stem of the plant (they are often called empty flowers). Female flowers appear mainly on lateral shoots, and they can only be achieved through pinching the main stem. In addition, pinching significantly increases the yield.

Today, varieties have already been bred, the main stem of which is strewn with female flowers. But then there is a problem with men. And you can also provoke their appearance by pinching the head stem. If, for example, the plant is hybrid or varietal, then you need to remove the tops above the sixth leaf, and only 3 shoots will need to be left, but the rest must be cut off. On a regular variety, you need 1 stem, and remove weak shoots completely. Modern varieties of cucumbers with short lateral shoots do not need to be pinched. Note: Pinching a melon is carried out in the same way as for cucumbers. See also: Growing cucumbers without a greenhouse and chemicals

Pinching tomatoes (tomatoes)

Pinching tall tomatoes is best done 40 days before the date of the expected harvest, when all the main brushes are formed. You need to leave 2 leaves above the last inflorescence. So without loss, all the fruits that have begun by this time will be formed.

Otherwise, the plant will stretch, set new fruits, and those formed earlier will ripen later, 6 years less and not so tasty. Similarly, pinch eggplant and pepper.

How to pinch zucchini

In zucchini (like zucchini), the top is broken off over 4-5 leaves. The main stem of the climbing squash is removed at the beginning of budding, when it reaches a length of more than 1 meter (1.3 on average), 3 lateral shoots 65-70 centimeters long with 1 meter of fruit on each are left. The pinching procedure is very similar for pumpkins.

But for bush and self-pollinated varieties, pinching is not necessary. But, when fruiting begins, it is better to remove 1-3 leaves in the middle of the bush: this prevents the development of rot.

How to pinch watermelons

When 2-3 fruits are tied and reach 5-7 centimeters in diameter, you can begin to pinch the tops of the side shoots. Do this as carefully as possible - the watermelon does not tolerate turning the whip over at all, and even more so trampling it with your feet. Related link: Growing melons , watermelons, eggplant and some other vegetables in Central Russia

Gourd Pinching

The number of fruits per lash should not exceed 3 pieces, even better 2x, this allows you to significantly speed up their ripening and also improve the quality of the fruits (and, most importantly, their keeping quality). When they finally tied up and began to fill up, you can pinch the main stem and long side shoots (they are infertile). Or you can orient all the shoots in one direction, leaving only 1 fruit each.

In this case, it is better to sprinkle the internodes of the plant with humus. Removing the tops of potato shoots before budding (tip 2-3 cm) increases tuberization. The resulting fruits, when planted next year, will give a “rejuvenated” and healthier crop. If the male shoots are not removed by 80% (they do not bloom), the cucumbers will be bitter. But you should not cut off - they give the fruits nutrients.

About pinching in detail:

Cucumber

Not every cultivar group needs to edit a growing plant. It is practically not necessary to form parthenocarpic varieties of the female type of flowering (for example, Graceful), but the old mid- and late-ripening varieties, especially in greenhouses, have to be formed:

• Usually, one stem is left on the plant, which is pinched over the eighth leaf.
• After that, after 4-5 days, the plant forms lateral shoots, of which no more than five are left and again pinched, above the fifth leaf, and the main lash is tied up.

This is simple, but one of the most effective and proven methods.

pinching eggplant

Subtleties begin even in the seedling period: Growing plants should not close with leaves. When the fifth leaf develops completely, pinch the growth point, the “blue ones” will begin to branch. Leave the three strongest shoots of the second order. After planting the seedlings in a permanent place, pinch them after 2-3 ovaries appear on them. Remove all lower leaves up to the first fork, and remove the axillary stepchild shoots. light-requiring of all our vegetables, too many leaves and too close placement of adult plants are not at all useful for him. As they ripen, the fruits become so heavy that they can fill up the entire bush: they need props! They were wise with the earth and seeds, grew good seedlings.

Planted at the right time, in a good greenhouse and in the right land. We water, field, fertilize and rub our hands, watching how the tops bush. But no flowers, no ovaries, only greenery ... What is the mistake?

And the fact that many varieties of vegetables need to be formed. Most varieties, only with the correct system of pinching the shoots, a certain placement of plants on the ridge and on the support, will give the maximum yield. A kind of garden architecture!

There are some general rules, a kind of reference points: the fewer shoots, the faster the first fruit will ripen, but the total yield per plant is less and the fruiting period is shorter. Plus the weather. Both have to be taken into account and find a golden mean.

And every culture has its own principles of formation.

Sweet pepper - pinch

Rule one: sweet pepper - the client is fragile and requires delicate handling. Rule two: low-growing varieties do not pinch at all, they themselves do an excellent job with their figure. fuss with tall peppers (like Kakadu) in greenhouses:

• When such a client reaches a height of about 20 cm, pinch the top. and due to axillary shoots, a bush begins to form.
• No more than four shoots are left on the plant, they should be placed symmetrically in the "crown" of your pepper "tree". All other axillary shoots are plucked in infancy.
• No more than three ovaries are left on each skeletal shoot, and it is preferable to remove the fruits at the stage of technical ripeness.

Since the shoots are very fragile, under ripening fruits (especially large-fruited varieties), do not forget to substitute props in a timely manner (for example, forks from willow branches). pinching tomatoes Varieties come with limited and unlimited growth (determinant and indeterminate).

Many determinants do not require formation at all, without forming or almost without forming axillary shoots - stepchildren. And all the principles of "designing" a tomato bush are based on regulating the number of shoots and the number of inflorescences on them. This is especially true for indeterminate greenhouse varieties formed into one stem with five inflorescences:

• In the morning we break out all the stepchildren (at this time they break off well) until they reach a length of 5 cm, and remove all side shoots, and in the second half of summer and 2/3 of the leaves: the plants should be well blown, this will largely save them from fungal diseases, in particular from phytophthora.
• When all the flower brushes have formed ovaries the size of a pea, the bush must be pinched: there is nothing to drive the tops, bring up the children!
• If for one reason or another your planting is thickened, plants can be formed into two stems, pinching them over the third flower brush. To do this, you can leave one lower stepson. Subject to the complete and regular removal of all others!

Tomatoes have a curious feature: with a dense planting, they bear fruit better than with a sparse one! And the optimal distance between plants is usually indicated on the package with seeds of each variety. © Plushinsky, agronomist, St. Petersburg

Pinching tomatoes (tomatoes).

Pinching (pinching) is an operation carried out in order to accelerate the ripening of fruits. The essence of pinching is to remove part of the stem, as a result of which nutrients are redirected to ripening fruits.

Pinching, as a rule, is practiced in the cultivation of pumpkin crops (cucumbers, pumpkins, melons, etc.). This technique is also used in the cultivation of nightshade, including tomatoes.

Benefits of pinching tomatoes

As you know, varieties and hybrids of tomatoes are divided into 3 categories according to biological characteristics of development: superdeterminant, determinant and indeterminate. As for the first two types, pinching is rarely carried out on them for the reason that such plants are characterized by a limited period of development, and the crop on them ripens before the onset of cold weather.

Another thing is the indeterminate type of plants that do not have a pronounced dormant period (year-round vegetation). Indeterminate varieties will grow vegetative mass, bloom and set fruit as long as the ambient temperature allows.

Obviously, the ripening of fruits on such plants occurs unevenly, and most of them do not have time to ripen before the onset of frost. Pinching helps to avoid crop losses. Sometimes it is advisable to pinch on determinant varieties if the plants are overfed with nitrogen fertilizers (in this case, tomatoes form "fatty shoots" to the detriment of fruiting).

Pinching technique

Pinching tomatoes is not particularly difficult, however, there are some nuances that must be taken into account: 1. It is necessary to carry out the operation in dry weather, since with high ambient humidity the risk of plant infection with late blight increases (fungal spores germinate within 1 hour).

The risk of infection increases many times if the plantings of tomatoes are close to potato beds, from where the ripe spores of the fungus are easily carried by the wind to the tomatoes. 2. The tool used for work (knife, scissors, etc.) must be disinfected before processing the next plant, since late blight spreads easily with intracellular juice.

For disinfection, you can use a saturated solution of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate, copper oxychloride or synthetic fungicides. 3. During the operation, a part of the stem is removed, above the last formed ovary, leaving 2-3 leaves above them. 4. A week after pinching the plants, it is recommended to feed them with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which will speed up the process of fruit ripening.

Ways to increase the yield of tomatoes

1. Proper formation of the bush and timely pinching is the key to the future harvest. 2. When growing tall vine-like varieties, it is advisable to bend the lower stepsons and pin them to the ground.

After a week, adventitious roots form on the shoots, which will increase the area of ​​plant nutrition. 3. It is recommended to grow indeterminate varieties of tomatoes through seedlings (by sowing in individual containers or peat-humus cubes).

4. The author of the article repeatedly tested the method of picking directly into the ground (at the beginning of May). To protect against return frosts, it is necessary to use covering materials (polyethylene, spunbond, agrofibre). Such plants form a powerful root system and overtake in development tomatoes grown through seedlings.

Features of growing tomatoes on the windowsill

The key to the successful cultivation of tomatoes in pots, on the windowsill in the apartment is a high-quality earthen substrate, the presence of the sun (at least for 3-4 hours a day), self-pollinating seeds and additional lighting with fluorescent lamps (phytolamps) in winter. The first crop of tomatoes appears 3-4 months after germination. Over time, tomatoes will need a support, to which the brushes of the bush are gradually tied up. During flowering, the bush needs to be shaken a little (once a day) for better pollination (this applies to all hybrid crops ).The tomato on the windowsill is not stepchildren, then the bush will be lush and beautiful. It is recommended to harvest the crop as the fruits ripen.

At the same time, a large number of ripened fruits on the bush pull excess juices from the plant. The bush is depleted, the new ovary becomes smaller. Selection of seeds. Seeds for growing tomatoes on the windowsill must be self-pollinating hybrids.

Of self-pollinated hybrids, small-fruited varieties are preferred, since large fruits ripen longer and worse. For growing tomatoes on a windowsill, the height of the bush is important. The selected variety should be undersized (no one needs vine-bushes two meters high in the apartment). A high-quality substrate is prepared from coconut fiber and biohumus.

To do this, mix 1 part of biohumus with 2 parts of coconut fiber. Ordinary three to four liter flower pots are taken as containers for growing tomatoes on the windowsill. and then transplant them into large, permanent pots. The second method is more troublesome, but it makes it possible to choose and plant the most powerful and strong seedlings from grown seedlings in large pots. Seeds are well prepared for planting. They are dipped in a warm solution of potassium permanganate (not pink and not dark red) for 2-3 hours.

Then they take it out (if there are enough seeds, then they take out only those seeds that have sunk to the bottom during this time, and those that have surfaced are thrown away, since the germination of such seeds is very low), on a cotton pad (or a piece of cotton fabric) , let it drain. Plant the seeds in small cups, with a volume of 100 ml (when planting with a pick). The cups are filled with an earthen mixture, lightly tamping, while not filling up to the edges of 2 cm.

The seeds are laid out on top and covered with a substrate, crushing so that the height of the earthen layer above the seeds is 1-1.5 cm, watered. Lay out 4-5 seeds in each cup. 1-2 weeks after germination, the seedlings are thinned out, leaving 2 pieces of the most powerful and beautiful in each cup.

A week later, a second thinning is carried out, leaving one of the strongest. When planting immediately in large pots (with a capacity of 3-4 liters), without picking, pour the earthen mixture, lightly tamping, do not fall asleep to the edges of 4-5 cm. The seeds are also laid out (according to 4-5 pieces) and sprinkle with a layer of earth 1-1.5 cm.

The remaining depth is filled up in about a month. This procedure will replace the pick. Seedlings also break through in several stages, until one of 4-5 pieces remains - the most powerful one. Approximately 3-4 weeks after germination, small seedlings are transplanted (dive) into large pots.

They take a seedling in a glass, turn it upside down (the top of the glass will be on the palm, and the seedling itself is passed between the fingers), gently pull the glass up. into the remaining empty space around the perimeter of the large pot. A seedling is sprinkled with soil from above to cotyledon leaves. When planting seeds immediately in large pots, the picking procedure is replaced by pouring an earthen substrate into a pot to a height of 2-3 cm. differently.

In the first month of life, seedlings should be watered regularly, but moderately. At this stage, it is important not to overwater the seedlings, as there will be a threat of various diseases (such as blackleg). In winter, they will not have to be watered often, since there is little sun and heat.

In winter, they follow the rule “it’s better not to top up than to overfill.” From the end of March, moisture consumption will increase, and the sun will do its job with warmth. In the summer, especially if by this time fruits have begun to appear on the bushes, it is important not to let the potted soil dry out.

Since the ovary and fruits on the bushes dramatically increase moisture consumption, in the hot summer they adhere to the rule “it is better to pour than not to add”. Lack of moisture will lead to shedding of the ovary. It is recommended to spray the bushes daily, especially on hot, sunny days, with plain water, it is better to do this in the evening. The support for an adult bush should be stable and strong. degrees around its axis.

Plants that receive light only from the side of the window tend to bend over towards the light. Therefore, so that your plants are not crooked, asymmetrical and ugly, do not forget to turn them. In order for the bush to last as long as possible, they must be fed.

Fruit-bearing crops deplete the soil very quickly. Without top dressing, the bush ages and quickly disappears. Therefore, once every 2-3 weeks, tomato bushes in pots on the windowsill must be fed (a teaspoon of agrolife in the top layer of the earth, or by watering Rostom - 1 cap per 2 liters of water). If desired, by pinching the top, a month after picking, they achieve more the splendor of the bush.

The bush will become more dense and compact in height. It should be borne in mind that with pinching, flowering and fruit ripening will be delayed by 1-2 weeks.

Propagation of tomatoes by cuttings

Tomato is a perennial plant. Therefore, if periodically (every 2 months) add fresh biohumus (if the pot allows), or transplant into larger pots, then the bush will produce a crop for several years. In this case, every year, in the spring, they make a small pruning of the branches in order to rejuvenate the bush. The tomato takes root very well by cuttings. After a year or two, when the bush becomes old, ugly and bulky, cut off a cutting (twig) from it, put it in water and after 2-3 weeks, a young seedling with a normally developed root system is transplanted into a pot with a fresh earthen substrate. A new bush (obtained as a result of such cuttings) will begin to bloom in just a couple of weeks after planting it in a pot.

Would you like to get a new experience, plant your windowsill in an original way, save your budget and surprise your friends? Then it's time to learn how to grow tomatoes on the balcony. Fortunately, this will not require much space, money and effort, and the result will certainly please. It is unlikely that anyone will remain indifferent to the fragrant and bright fruits grown in the immediate vicinity of the kitchen table. It is only necessary to choose the right variety of tomatoes, as well as create suitable conditions for them.

You can grow tomatoes both on an open balcony and on a glazed one. Both options involve some restrictions and conditions for creating a comfortable microclimate for plants.

An open balcony is suitable if you plan to harvest in the warm season. The minimum night temperatures at which seedlings can be taken out into the open are + 8 ... + 10 ° C.

It is important to understand that the lack of glazing makes plants vulnerable to precipitation, wind and temperature conditions. For this reason, it is better to foresee the possibility of bringing tomatoes into the room or the presence of a windproof and shading structure. It can be curtains, a screen, etc.

Tomatoes are taken out to the open balcony no earlier than April-May

The glazed balcony allows you to enjoy your own grown tomatoes even in winter. If you wish, you can guess the ripening period of the fruits so that they decorate the festive table for the New Year or a family celebration. But for this, the balcony must be effectively insulated and landscaped.

High-quality thermal insulation allows you to maintain a stable temperature in the room, and good air ventilation - to control its humidity and prevent the development of infections on the bushes.

Such tomatoes will decorate any balcony.

Note! Regardless of which balcony you are going to grow tomatoes on, you need to evaluate in advance the possibilities of placing planting containers. You must have free access to each plant.

Varieties of tomatoes for the balcony and windowsill

Not all varieties of tomatoes are suitable for growing on a windowsill or balcony. It is recommended to give preference to the shortest species. There are a number of reasons for this:

• Such plants have a small root system. For one bush, a planting container with a volume of 3-3.5 liters is enough.
• The fruits of undersized tomatoes ripen faster and more evenly.
• Small bushes better absorb all the nutrients from the soil.
• They are easier to care for.

Low-growing varieties are ideal for any window sill

Indoor tomatoes are distinguished by the following characteristics:

• Small bush height. Usually it ranges from 20-60 cm.
• Stamp building. This implies the presence of a thick central stem, around which the crown is formed.
• Abundant fruiting. The number of fruits on one brush can reach 20 pieces!
• The modest size and weight of the fruit. Usually it is 15-70 g. Small round fruits, even without looking at the variety, are often called “cherries”.
• Resistant to lack of light. Although tomatoes are considered light-loving, most indoor varieties can be content with a 5-hour daylight hours.
• Determinacy. That is, stopping the growth of the bush after the formation of a certain number of flower brushes. This greatly facilitates the care of the plant.
• Early maturity. Usually already 80-95 days after planting the seeds, you can harvest the first crop.
• High degree of decorativeness. Compact bushes with bright fruits between fleshy leaves are pleasing to the eye.

The most popular cherry tomatoes for growing on the balcony: Bonsai, Balcony Miracle, Room Surprise, Angelica, Pinocchio, Garden Pearl, Pearl, Baby, Oak. In most cases, reviews of these varieties are not just positive, but admiring.

Step by step instructions for growing tomatoes on the balcony

It would seem that 80-95 days is not so much. Planted, watered, harvested - that's all! In fact, much more needs to be done during these days. Do not be alarmed, growing indoor tomatoes does not require titanic efforts from you at all. Only attentiveness, compliance with a number of rules for care and a little love for what you are doing.

Soil selection and preparation

The choice and preparation of the soil is important for the proper growth and abundant fruiting of tomatoes.

Suitable for landing:

• Ready-made soil, which is easy to find in a specialized store. It is already fortified with essential minerals and is usually labeled as “for tomatoes” for example.
• Personally prepared mixture: 1 part of humus, 1 part of sod land and 1 part of peat. An alternative would be a mixture of leafy soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1.

Having chosen the soil, it is important to properly prepare it for planting seeds. Preparation consists in disinfection. You can do this in several ways:

1. Ignite in the microwave. For this, 1-2 minutes are enough at a power of 800-850 watts.
2. Warm up in the oven. At 200°C, 10 minutes is sufficient.
3. Completely shed the soil with small portions of boiling water or a solution of potassium permanganate.

Soil for indoor tomatoes should be nutritious and loose

Subsequently, the earth is slightly dried or cooled, depending on the chosen method of disinfection.

Preparation of tomato seeds - disinfection and germination

Like the soil, the seeds also need to be prepared for planting - select the bad ones, disinfect, germinate, especially if you took them from friends, bought them “from your hands”. Seeds in sealed packages from well-known agricultural firms undergo a disinfection procedure in the factory and are characterized by a high percentage of germination.

To select unsuitable seeds for planting, pour them into a glass or bowl of water, mix. The good seeds will sink to the bottom and the bad ones will float to the surface.

Planting material can be disinfected using:

• Potassium permanganate - 1 g per 100 ml of water. In this solution, it is recommended to soak the seeds for 15 minutes.
• Soda - 0.5 g per 100 ml. In this case, the seeds should be kept for at least a day.
• Special funds. One of the most popular is Fitosporin. If you purchased it in liquid form, it is enough to dilute 1 drop in 100 ml of water for processing. In dry form, you need ½ teaspoon for the same volume. The seeds are soaked for about 15 minutes.

Disinfection of seeds with potassium permanganate

You can plant the seeds right away, or you can germinate first. Practice shows that germination in the second case is higher. For germination, planting material is wrapped in wet gauze or bandage and placed in a warm place. After a couple of days, sprouts will appear. After that, the seeds are ready for planting in the ground.

Note! As soon as the sprouts hatch, be especially careful to ensure that the gauze does not dry out.

Sprouted tomato seeds

Planting seeds and the first picking of seedlings

At a distance of at least 3 cm from each other, holes or grooves are made in the ground with a depth of 1-1.5 cm. Seeds are laid out in them, which are then covered with earth and sprayed abundantly with water from a spray bottle. If you plant seeds immediately from the package, then they can be grouped in 2-3 pieces. But the germinated ones are better to lay out one at a time.

The planting container is covered with a transparent moisture-proof material (film, plastic cover) and placed in a warm place with an air temperature of + 22 ... + 24 ° C. This will create a greenhouse effect for better germination.

When sprouts appear, it is important to provide them with the following conditions:

• Be sure to ventilate the "greenhouse" so that the seedlings are not killed by fungal and other infections. To do this, 1-2 times a day, the cover is removed for 5-10 minutes, each time increasing the ventilation time.
• Make sure that the top layer of the earth, where the tender roots are located, does not dry out. Watering is best done with a spray gun, as a regular jet of water can erode the soil.
• Provide seedlings with good lighting. Usually it is simply transferred to the windowsill.

The first picking of seedlings is performed after the appearance of the third leaf, not counting the cotyledons. If you used a shallow container for sowing seeds, then it is better to plant young plants in two steps: first in a regular plastic glass with a volume of 200 ml, and then, after a month, in a large pot for an adult bush for 3-3.5 liters.

If you immediately planted germinated seeds in glasses, monitor the condition of the root system. If there are three normal sheets, it should take up almost the entire volume of the container.

Important! Seedlings are planted one at a time. At the same time, stronger specimens are selected. The weak are disposed of.

When picking on glasses, holes should not be made in their bottoms to remove moisture, otherwise there is a high risk of drying out such a small amount of soil. When planting in large pots, the presence of drain holes and a drainage layer at the bottom of the container is a must!

For ease of picking, you can use a wooden spatula or a regular fork

When and how to feed tomatoes

Seedlings need to be fed, as they need a large amount of nutrients to grow and bear fruit. For this, complex mineral and organic fertilizers are used.

In stores you can find the following suitable compositions: "Emerald", "Krepysh", "Gumat +7". From folk remedies, you can use ashes, banana peels, eggshells or an infusion of onion peels.

The first feeding is carried out 12-14 days after the appearance of the first shoots. The second - 10 days after it, and the third - about a week before picking seedlings into large pots. Tomatoes are also fed during flowering, fruiting - 1 time in 10-12 days.

Important! Fertilizers are applied only to moist soil - a few hours after watering or even the next day.

Potassium and phosphorus, important for tomatoes, are found in ash

When feeding tomatoes, it is important not to overdo it. All solutions are made in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. For young seedlings, they even use a dosage that is half the recommended one. Pay special attention to nitrogen fertilizers. With their overdose, there is a high risk that the bush will actively begin to grow green mass, “forgetting” about flowering and fruiting.

Seedling care - watering and other activities

Seedling care includes measures to create a favorable microclimate and proper watering.

Tomatoes are warm and light-loving plants. They feel great on the south and southeast windows. Most varieties easily tolerate short-term exposure to even direct sunlight. However, on the hottest days, it is better to shade the windows.

If the windows are not well lit by sunlight, use fluorescent lamps. They allow you to easily extend the daylight hours for tomatoes in the cold season or cloudy weather. To do this, the lamps are installed above the plants, at a distance of 25-30 cm from the tallest bush. Usually they are turned on for 2-3 hours before dawn or for the same time after sunset.

Illumination of seedlings with lamps

The daytime temperature for comfortable plant growth is +22 ... +26 °C, and the night temperature should not be lower than +16 °C. Regular ventilation of the room will help to regulate the temperature regime. It is worth noting that tomatoes love this procedure, but they are afraid of direct streams of cold air.

As for watering, it is rare, but plentiful. In the cold season, the bushes are watered 1 time in 5-7 days, and in the warm season - 1 time in 2-3 days. At the same time, it is important to monitor the condition of the soil. You may have to adjust the watering regime, taking into account the microclimate on the balcony.

Tomato seedlings need to be watered under the root

Formation of a bush - how to properly perform pinching

Pasynkovanie balcony tomatoes is the timely removal of lateral shoots. What is it for?

1. Thinning the bush allows light to penetrate to all the leaves.
2. The plant is well ventilated, this reduces the risk of many infections and the appearance of harmful insects.
3. The fruits after such a procedure develop more fully.
4. The bush has a well-groomed and more decorative appearance.

Stepping is easy to do: the shoots that appear are broken off with your fingers, leaving a “stump” of 1-1.5 cm. It is better not to use scissors to avoid infection.

Bushes usually form in 1-3 stems. One stem is left in standard varieties. It has a large thickness and perfectly supports the vertical position of the plant, which does not need support and tying. If you want to form a bush in 2-3 stems, keep the first stepchildren.

Technique for pinching tomatoes at home

Many indoor tomatoes are determinate. After the release of four to five flower clusters, which appear after 2-3 leaves, they stop growing. In terms of caring for the bush and its formation, this is very convenient. Indeterminate varieties, even after the release of 8-9 brushes, stepchildren continue to appear. Such plants require more attention.

Pollination - is it necessary indoors

For self-pollination of balcony tomatoes, air fluctuations are sufficient when ventilating the room. But if you notice that the fruits are not tied to them, look for a problem in the microclimate. Here's how it should be:

• Air temperature within +22…+25 °C. At higher values, the pollen will become sterile, and at lower values, the flowering process will simply slow down.
• Soil moisture - not less than 70%. Overdried land often causes the flowers to fall off.
• Air humidity - 60-65%.

If you see that the tomatoes on the balcony are not blooming, try shaking the top brushes a little. Then the pollen from them will fall on the lower flowers. But for the desired effect, a few hours after this procedure, the plant must be watered.

Artificial pollination can be done by touching the brush to the flowers

Tomatoes can be grown not only in pots, when the top of the plant is traditionally directed upwards. There is an alternative and much more original option - planting in plastic bottles, but ... upside down!

bottle planting technology

Slightly grown seedlings are usually planted in bottles. In this case, it is better to abandon standard varieties with a thick stem. They will not look very aesthetically pleasing.

The sequence of actions should be as follows:

1. For a clean 2-3 liter plastic bottle, cut off the bottom. The cut line is where the width of the container becomes stable, without contraction or expansion.
2. At the bottom of the cut off part, make 1-3 small holes for drip irrigation of the plant. You can use a heated nail or a hand drill.
3. Turn this element upside down and insert it into the bottle. Mark and make 2-4 holes around the perimeter so that you can insert a strong rope into them and tie the planting container to the support. Disassemble the structure.
4. Take the seedling along with a small earthen clod and carefully insert it into the container through the cut off bottom. Stick the stem with leaves into the neck. So that the earth does not fall out of it at first and retains moisture, the roots of the seedling can be wrapped with a paper napkin, toilet paper. Another option is to make a cork from moss or foam rubber for the neck.
5. Fill the planting container with soil, lightly tamping. Please note: it should not be stacked to the top (the top in this case is the bottom of the bottle)! Leave a free space equal in height to the cut off part.
6. Install it in the bottle so that the holes for the rope match. Stretch it and securely tie the container to the support.

It may seem incomprehensible and complicated, but a few thematic photos and videos will definitely help you figure it out.

Making a hole for hanging seedlings in a bottle

Placing a plant in a bottle

Advice! For the convenience of hanging the landing container, you can use plastic buckets. You just need to make holes in them for the seedling.

Advantages and disadvantages of using hanging containers

Growing tomatoes upside down has its pros and cons. The advantages include:

• Convenience of watering. You do not have to focus on watering around the root or along the walls of the container. It is enough to pour water into an inverted bottom, and it will drain drop by drop into the ground.
• Decorative landing and its originality. A bush upside down is a fascinating sight in itself, and if it also bears fruit, then the effect is doubly amazing.
• Space saving. The use of vertical space allows you to free up the window sill for traditionally growing greenery.
• There is no need to tie bushes.

Soil bottles can be placed in decorative planters

With all the tangible advantages, this method of growing tomatoes also has disadvantages:

• While the root system is small, water can flow down through the neck of the bottle. The aforementioned plugs or substituting another pot with a plant under the planting container can be a solution.
• A bottle with a fruiting bush can weigh up to 25 kg, so you will have to take care of a reliable support for the plants. Most often, metal brackets are used for these purposes.
• A bottle of soil restricts light to the plant while it is small.

Thus, choosing one or another method of growing tomatoes, you should carefully weigh its pros and cons.

Problems of growing indoor tomatoes - pests and diseases

In order for the harvest to be plentiful, the fruits to be tasty, and the bushes to be beautiful, you need to carefully care for the plants. This will prevent the development of diseases and the appearance of insects harmful to them. However, you need to know the enemy by sight in order to understand how to deal with him if they appear.

The main diseases of tomatoes on the windowsill:

• Late blight. It is expressed in the appearance of brown spots on all parts of the bush and even fruits. The reason is the high level of humidity combined with heat. Late blight easily affects neighboring plants, so it is better to dispose of a diseased plant.
• Blackleg. It affects young seedlings growing too densely and in an excessively humid environment. They turn black at the surface of the earth, become thinner and die. During this period, it is necessary to remove diseased plants, reduce watering and thin out seedlings.
• Gray rot. Formed on tomatoes of any ripeness. First, small gray spots appear, which, as they grow, become watery in nature and exude a putrid odor. Affected tomatoes are thrown out along with the soil.

Manifestation of late blight of tomatoes

Common pests on tomatoes include:

• Whitefly. An adult individual does not exceed 1.5 mm in size and has a yellowish body. The larva, on the contrary, is green and flat. It is she who damages the leaves, sticking to them. Visually, the lesions are characterized by black spots, as they are actively populated by soot fungi.
• Spider mite. Lives on the reverse side of the sheets. The lesions first resemble dots, which then grow into a “marble” pattern.

Adult whiteflies on the back of a leaf

Spider mite damage

Special substances - insecticides - help to effectively deal with harmful insects. They can be found in specialized stores.

Video master classes on growing balcony tomatoes

Vertical beds and other ways to compactly plant tomatoes and herbs on the balcony:

Details on growing tomatoes on the balcony and windowsill:

It is very exciting to watch how small seeds gain strength day by day, turning into beautiful fruit-bearing tomato bushes. Add potted greens to them in the form of lettuce, parsley, basil. Plant a few decorative peppers - and you will create an amazing mini-garden on the windowsill with your own hands!

Today, not only flowers and herbs, but also various vegetables are increasingly grown on open balconies and glazed loggias. You can often see green bushes with red tomatoes on the balconies. Even tomatoes grown in small containers can produce a good harvest. However, for this you need to choose the right variety, prepare the soil and fulfill all the conditions for growing tomatoes on the balcony.

On the balcony you can grow almost any variety of tomatoes. However, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe loggia is small, then it is best to choose undersized bushes of the Oak, Malysh or Cherry varieties, which are distinguished by small fruits, but good yields. You should also pay attention to the special varieties of tomatoes for the balcony:

1. Balcony miracle - a hybrid variety bred for growing at home is distinguished by a bush height of 50 cm. With good care, fruits weighing up to 65 grams are formed on it. From one bush you can collect up to 2 kg of tomatoes per season.
2. Balkoni Elou is a hybrid early ripening variety up to 45 cm high. Tomatoes of this variety have a bright yellow color and are suitable for preservation.
3. Pinocchio is an unpretentious balcony variety characterized by early fruit ripening.
4. F1 Balcony red is an early ripening variety with medium-sized fruits and a bush height of up to 30 cm. The advantage of this variety is that it does not need to cut off stepchildren. The fruits have a sugary pleasant taste.

If the area allows, you can grow tall bushes on the balcony, tying them to supports. On closed loggias, it is recommended to grow self-pollinating varieties or pollinate plants yourself.

Growing tomato seedlings

At home, growing tomato seedlings for a balcony is no different from growing seedlings for a vegetable garden.

When to plant tomatoes for seedlings

The timing of sowing seeds depends on the variety chosen and on which balcony the tomatoes will grow. If the loggia is glazed, and it is warm on it already in April, then crops can be carried out in late February and early March. Tomato seeds that will grow on an open balcony should be sown later. Here, the time for sowing seeds depends on when heat is established in the region. If pots with tomatoes are taken out to the balcony only at the beginning of June, then crops should be done in April.

Seed and soil preparation

Today, stores sell planting material that does not require pre-treatment. If seeds from the market or collected on their own are used, then it is first recommended that they be disinfected in a weak raster of potassium permanganate, then wrapped in a damp cloth, kneaded in cellophane and a warm place. Planting can be done after the seeds have sprouts.

Soil for tomatoes can be purchased at a specialized store or made with your own hands from humus and sod (1: 1) or compost and old garden soil. For nutrition, superphosphate or wood ash is added to the substrate, and sawdust or peat for looseness.

If soil from the garden will be used, then it is recommended to disinfect it by heating it in a water bath or calcining it in the oven. After such treatment, all pest larvae and spores of harmful fungi present in the soil will die. Then the soil must be placed in a container with a lid and kept warm for two weeks so that bacteria useful for plants can grow and multiply in it.

Sowing tomato seeds with a step by step photo

For growing seedlings of balcony tomatoes, you can prepare common containers or individual pots. Even juice boxes are suitable as common containers, and instead of pots, you can take disposable cups.

Sowing tomato seeds is done as follows:

The containers are filled with pre-moistened substrate.

If containers or boxes are used, small indentations are made in them with a distance of 3-5 cm with a pencil or stick.

Tomato seeds are placed in the prepared holes, which are covered with soil from above.

Crops are sprayed with warm water from a spray bottle and covered with a film or cellophane.

Containers with crops should be placed in a warm place. Every day, polyethylene should be removed for a few minutes to ventilate the soil. If the soil from above begins to dry out, it is carefully moistened from a spray bottle using warm water.

Tomato seedling care - photo

From quality seeds, under the right conditions, seedlings will begin to appear in a week. They will need to be placed in a well-lit place, for which you can use the windowsill. It is not recommended to put seedlings on the southern windowsills, where young plants can burn direct sunlight.

Tomato seedling care includes the following procedures:

Regular watering. It is necessary to ensure that the earth does not dry out, otherwise the still fragile seedlings will simply dry out. It is best to spray the soil around the seedlings immediately after its top layer dries. But don't over-moisturize! Seedlings growing all the time in damp soil are often infected with the "black leg" and die.

Picking tomatoes.

When two or three true leaves appear on the tomato seedlings (about 2 weeks after germination), it is swooped down in separate pots. To do this, you can use plastic disposable cups or special containers.

After picking, the plants are watered less frequently, using only settled water at room temperature.

1. Feeding tomato seedlings. If the tomatoes were immediately planted in separate pots, then when two true leaves appear on them, the seedlings are fed with mineral fertilizers. you can use the universal fertilizer Zdraven turbo. Picked tomatoes can not be fed for the first week, as they were planted in nutrient soil. Then the seedlings are fed every week.

Remember! So that the seedlings do not stretch out, they are placed in a well-lit place where it is not very hot. After picking, tomato seedlings can be left on a glazed loggia if the air temperature on it at night does not drop below +15 degrees.

How to grow tomatoes on the balcony

Transplanting tomatoes into pots - step by step photo

After about a month, grown and strengthened tomato bushes can be transplanted already into large pots or other containers, where they will grow all summer:

• for undersized varieties there will be enough containers with a volume of 3-5 liters;
• tall varieties are transplanted into pots or other containers with a volume of 8-12 liters.

You can also grow balcony tomatoes in deep boxes. Even a dense large plastic bag can be used as a container, having previously made drainage holes at the bottom.

Drainage is placed at the bottom of the pots first, and then wet soil. Tomato bushes, together with a clod of earth, must be carefully removed from the pots and placed in a prepared hole. In order for the plants to get a powerful and well-developed root system, it is recommended to cut off the cotyledons and several lower leaves.

And deepen the bush to the remaining leaves. Sprinkle the seedling to the lower leaves with a nutritious soil mixture and water well.

The first week the transplanted bushes should be kept in the shade, and when they adapt, move to a well-lit place.

Caring for balcony tomatoes

When growing tomatoes on a loggia, it should be remembered that their roots are in a limited space, therefore, they require more frequent moisture and top dressing than in open ground.

Watering the tomatoes 2-3 times a week with settled water. In the hot season, you may need to water the bushes more often.

Top dressing of tomatoes should be done every 10 days. For this, both mineral and ready-made organic fertilizers are used. Immediately after transplantation, the plants are fed with ammonium nitrate, urea or other nitrogen-containing fertilizer, which will contribute to the growth of green mass. In the future, feeding should be alternated and only those that are suitable for the formation of fruits should be used. If the fertilizer contains a lot of nitrogen, then only greens will grow rapidly on the bushes.

is a mandatory procedure. If you do not remove the shoots developing in the axils of the leaves, then all the forces of the plant will be spent on their development. Pasynkovanie stimulates the development of the main shoots, which further increases the yield.

If tall varieties were chosen for growing on the balcony, then even during transplanting into a pot near them, it is recommended put a support. You can pull a rope on the loggia and tie the bushes to it.

Diseases and pests balcony tomatoes are less scary than plants grown in the open field. However, contaminated soil, dry air and other causes can lead to the appearance of pests on tomatoes, which can be eliminated with the help of special insecticidal preparations. If dark spots appear on the leaves of a tomato, then this is the first sign of late blight. The plant requires treatment with fungicidal preparations.

Attention! In order for the inflorescences to be better laid, after the formation of the fruit brush, it is recommended to cut off the lower leaves..

When a sufficient number of inflorescences and fruits are formed on the bush, the top of the bush is broken off along with the flowers. Otherwise, the forces of the plant will go to the growth of the bush up and the development of weak inflorescences. After removing the top of the bush and flowers, the remaining fruits will begin to tie and develop faster and better.

After studying the step-by-step instructions for growing tomatoes on the balcony, you can harvest delicious fruits without leaving your home. To do this, it is enough to follow all the tips and recommendations that were described in our article.

For many urban residents and not only, it has long been no secret that, for example, you can grow tomatoes on a balcony at home. To do this, you need to know some of the nuances. And if we are talking about tomatoes, then let's deal with them.

To grow a crop of real fruits, you need to consider the following important points:

• variety of tomatoes.

In the conditions of a balcony, a saucer, plants cannot be pollinated by insects, that is, the varieties must be selected appropriately. What are these tomatoes, we will say below;

• temperature and humidity.

It is clear that when growing vegetables at home, they should grow in a warm climate in an apartment, without drafts and excessive dryness;

• lighting.

This is very important and one of the most important nuances in growing any crops and flowers at home. If your apartment does not have windows on the south or east side, then you will definitely need additional lighting lamps. The same applies to unfavorable days, when the sun is constantly hidden behind the clouds. Otherwise, the seedlings will reach up in search of light, become thinner and break at the very base. Or they will be ugly.

So, let's go in order.

Tomatoes on the balcony. Growing step by step

The first thing to do is, of course, buy seeds. For home cultivation, you need to choose certain types. Often, manufacturers indicate on the packaging information that this type of tomato is used for growing indoors and at home.

Another important point is that the conditions on the balcony and, for example, in the greenhouse are completely different. And indoors, often the crop still fails to be obtained, although the seeds were good. Always choose better when buying. They are more resistant to various difficult conditions, they do not require scrupulous care, pollination.

What varieties of tomatoes for the balcony to choose? You can take a closer look at the following tomatoes:

• "Angelica";
• "Pearl";
• "Florida Petit";
• "MiniBell";
• "Romantic";
• "Ballerina";
• "Cascade red";
• "Yellow Pearl"

Tomatoes on the balcony of the Balcony Miracle variety have also become very popular and popular.

Important point!

For a balcony, it is better to take varieties not only hybrid, but also undersized. Then you will avoid problems with the garter. Yes, and high varieties have a well-developed root system, and it requires space.

We grow tomatoes on the balcony: seed and soil preparation

This is a very important stage in the cultivation of any crops. Seeds of tomatoes, cucumbers and other vegetables should always be pre-cooked. Namely, we are talking about:

• selection of viable seeds by soaking in water. After that, according to the floating seeds, they judge the bad seed material that needs to be removed;
• disinfection, which consists in soaking the seeds in manganese for 15-25 minutes, after which they are washed and dried;
• about nutrition. Here, everyone can choose their own method. Someone puts the seeds in "Epin" to improve germination, someone soaks in various folk solutions, someone uses an effective bubbling method (saturation of the seed material with oxygen).

After the seeds are ready, you need to take care of the soil. So that you are not so troublesome, especially in apartments where it is not very easy to prepare your soil, soil can be bought at any garden store. Take land specifically for tomatoes or general purpose.

planting tomatoes

How to plant tomatoes on the balcony? To grow tomatoes on the balcony, you do not need to spend a lot of effort. Do what is more convenient for you. If you have enough space, then you can immediately plant each seed in a separate pot (peat ones are great for this), if there is not enough space, then plant in a common container, but still you will have to dive seedlings.

Garden shops offer different options for containers:

• you can buy a common long container, which is covered with a plastic lid on top, which is convenient;
• you can purchase a common container, but in which there are separate compartments for each seedling;
• you can buy peat tablets and cups;
• you can use improvised materials: plastic bottles, containers for dairy products.

The seeds are buried in the nutrient soil by no more than 1 cm. After that, the soil is slightly compacted and sprayed with a spray bottle. Further, if there is no special cover, they are covered with a film and placed in the sun. When sprouts appear, the shelter is removed. Now important watering and light. Again, we remind you about lamps - these can be either special lamps or fluorescent and even simple incandescent bulbs.

Seedling care at home

Tomatoes after they have risen must be constantly moistened. For irrigation, use warm water that has stood for a day. Make sure there is no excess moisture. If you planted seedlings in the spring, when it is warm, then open the balcony for ventilation. By the way, it is worth mentioning that all the dates of sowing and other matters must be looked at according to the lunar calendar.

When the seedlings have 2-3 true leaves, the seedlings dive, unless, of course, you planted them immediately in separate containers. After picking, after 10-12 days, the tomatoes are fed. Then they wait another 2 weeks and feed again. During this period, it is good to make complex mineral preparations from the store. After the tomatoes, it is worth feeding again when they set fruit and during fruiting. But here it is already necessary to take fertilizers that will not harm health, that is, without chemistry.

If your tomatoes began to stretch or your variety is tall, then you will still have to build a trellis or just pull on a garter rope. When planting, be sure to take into account information that indicates the presence of stepchildren in a particular species. They need to be removed.

In order for the seedlings to be strong, harden it off with the onset of heat. To do this, open the windows on the balcony, first for a short while, then leaving for the whole day and even for the night.

September 14, 2016
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

In this article I will tell you how to grow tomatoes on the balcony, this crop is well suited for urban conditions, but in order to get a good harvest, you need to create optimal conditions for the plants. In fact, there is nothing complicated in the workflow, and all problems most often stem from the fact that people do not know the important nuances of growing or use dubious advice, which is very much on the Internet.

The process of growing tomatoes on the balcony

This will be a kind of step-by-step instruction, divided into 4 main stages. There are no trifles in the work, each action is of great importance and affects the final result, so do not ignore any of the recommendations.

Step One - Choosing Quality Seeds

If I say that almost half of the success depends on the choice of planting material, then I will hardly be mistaken. The fact is that specially bred varieties are suitable for the balcony, which are adapted to the conditions of city apartments, they differ in such characteristics as the low size of plants, shortened ripening periods and unpretentiousness to external conditions.

I will talk about those varieties that I used when growing, but this is only a small part of the possible options:

"Balcony Miracle"	Perhaps the most famous and popular option for growing in an apartment. The fruits are round, bright red, ripen in about 85-90 days. Bushes do not require a garter, one plant brings an average of about 2 kilograms of fruit. Tomatoes are suitable for both salads and pickling.
"Angelica"	One of the earliest ripening varieties - the fruits ripen within 80 days after emergence, which allows you to get a crop before the outbreak of late blight, which usually occurs in August. Plants are low, medium-sized fruits - from 40 to 70 grams, does not need a garter
"Pearl"	My favorite variety due to its unpretentiousness - plants tolerate cold and heat well, lack of moisture and nutrients in the soil. Fruits of a slightly elongated shape of small size, their characteristic feature is that the content of mineral salts and sugars in them is twice as high as in other varieties.
"Bonsai micro"	This variety is distinguished by its decorative effect - the bushes grow only 12 cm high, they all have the same shape, up to 1 kg of tomatoes are collected from the bush, they are medium-sized - they weigh about 15-20 grams. The advantage of this option is that it can be planted in small pots with a volume of 2.5-3 liters.

I do not exclude that there are many other excellent varieties, when choosing, you need to take into account such factors: purpose (best of all, special options for window sills), size of bushes, ripening period. Buy seeds only in trustworthy stores, otherwise you can get one and a half meters giants instead of undersized plants.

Balcony tomatoes of Western selection can also be considered, very often they even surpass our options in terms of yield, but it is more difficult to purchase them, and the cost will be many times higher.

Step two - prepare everything you need

As I noted above, we will consider growing tomatoes on the balcony step by step, we figured out the first stage, but in addition to the seeds, you need to have a set of necessary items on hand, let's deal with them:

• For growing seedlings, it is easiest to use ordinary plastic cups., if you wish, you can buy special boxes for seedlings, but if you want to save money, then the first option is perfect. There is no need to make any holes in the bottom, the plants grow well and so;

• Nowadays, there is no need to prepare the soil mixture, just buy ready-made soil in the right amount.. Remember that about 5 liters of soil should fall on one adult plant (3 liters is enough for the Bonsai micro variety), based on this, the required volume is calculated;
• For mature plants, pots or flower boxes are used., you can build containers yourself, this option is good because you can make structures for the parameters of your balcony.

Do not forget to prepare a place for plants in advance, ideally if they stand on a raised platform for the best, for this you can build the simplest benches. Balconies facing south and southeast are best suited.

Step three - sowing seeds

Now let's figure out how to grow seedlings from seeds, the process can be done in two ways: without germination and with germination of seed material. Let's consider each of the options in more detail and start with planting without sprouting:

• First of all, you need to soak the seed material in a solution of potassium permanganate, this is necessary, firstly, for disinfection, and secondly, in order to separate low-quality seeds. It is very easy to distinguish them: good seeds will sink to the bottom, and empty ones will remain on top, and they need to be drained after 15 minutes;

• Next, you need to fill our cups with soil and pour warm water over it.. A hole is made in the middle with a depth of 1-1.5 cm, no more is needed, 2 seeds are placed in it, which are covered with earth, nothing needs to be compacted, as this will complicate the germination of seeds;
• If you sow the seeds in a large container, then the distance between them should be at least 3 centimeters, and between the rows you need to make a gap of at least 6 centimeters;

• Crops are covered with transparent polyethylene and placed in a warm place, shoots will appear in 5-7 days. You can transfer containers to the windowsill, as the sprouts need light. The optimum temperature for seedlings is 20-23 degrees during the day and 16-18 degrees at night, try to maintain just this mode;
• If you planted in cups and you have grown 2 plants each, then the weaker sprout must be carefully cut off near the soil, you can’t pull it out, as you can damage the roots of a neighboring tomato;
• Watering is done about once a week, for this water at room temperature is used., defended for at least a day. You can additionally spray the plants with a conventional sprayer;
• Hardening of seedlings can be started about 2 weeks after germination, for this, at first, a window is simply opened, then you can take the containers out to the balcony and keep them there with an open window if the weather is warm and calm. No need to check what temperature the seedlings can withstand and take it out into the cold, such extreme actions can ruin the fruits of your labor.

The second planting option differs from the first in the way of seed preparation, I will only talk about the initial stage, since further actions will be the same as in the above option:

• First of all, the seeds are soaked for 15-20 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate, all elements that have surfaced are removed;

If your seeds are processed (this is easy to see by their characteristic color), then there is no need to disinfect them.

• Then you need to prepare a solution with a growth regulator, I personally usually use Epin, but it can be any other similar option. The instruction will tell you how the composition is made, seeds are lowered into it and left for about 10 hours, this will improve their germination and accelerate growth;

• Soaked seeds should be put on a damp cloth or gauze, covered and left in a warm place.. After three or four days, sprouts should appear, all seeds that have not begun to grow can be discarded;
• Next, you need to make holes in the prepared containers and lower one seed at a time. In order not to damage the sprouts, I usually use a toothpick, wet seeds cling well to it and can be carefully placed in the ground. Further actions are performed according to the algorithm described above.

Above, we looked at how to plant and how to care for seedlings, now we will figure out how top dressing is done, since this is also an important part of agricultural technology. The easiest way is to use ready-made complex fertilizer for tomatoes, it can be purchased at any specialized store. The work is done as follows:

• The first feeding is done 12 days after the sprouts have made their way out;
• The second time the plants are processed 8-9 days after the first fertilization;
• The third time is done about a week after the second and at least a week before the plants are transplanted to a permanent place.

To prevent fungal diseases, seedlings can be treated twice with a solution of milk (50 g per 500 g of water).

Do not forget about the fact that plants always reach for the light, therefore, in order for your tomatoes to turn out even, you need to turn them with the other side to the window every 3-4 days.

Step four - transplanting seedlings and caring for plants

Now let's figure out how to grow properly full-fledged tomatoes on the balcony, the process begins with transplanting seedlings:

• As I noted above, it is best to use cups, since you can get a plant with a piece of soil and transplant it to a permanent place, this creates minimal stress for the plant during transplantation and ensures almost one hundred percent survival;
• The size of the pot should be about 5-7 liters, 3 liters is enough for dwarf varieties. You can also use long boxes, in which tomatoes are planted at a distance of 30 cm from each other, so that they do not suffer from lack of space during growth;
• 2-3 cm of drainage material is poured at the bottom of the containers, the easiest way is to use expanded clay, which is sold in bags and costs a little. It will allow excess moisture to be removed through the hole, which must be at the bottom of the pot or box;

• Next, you need to fill the soil in a pot, after which it is poured with warm water. Before planting a plant in a pot, you need to make a recess according to the size of the seedling with the ground, after which the plant is placed there. The soil is compacted and watered again, on this the work can be considered successfully completed;

• Now let's figure out how to grow a rich crop at home, first of all, you need to provide the plants with sunlight, they should be located on the south or east side, this is ideal;
• Watering of plants is carried out as the topsoil dries up, on hot days this is done every other day, in cooler less often. The earth cannot be overdried, but waterlogging will not be beneficial either;

• Once every 10-12 days, top dressing is carried out with the same complex fertilizer.. Foliar treatment brings good results - spraying with a solution of boric acid (1 g per 10 liters of water), this prevents flowers from shedding and improves fruit set;

• The question often arises whether it is necessary to stepchild plants, most varieties do not allow stepchildren, so there is no need for these works. But if your stepchildren are growing, then they need to be broken off with your hands at a distance of half a centimeter from the base;
• Another important question is whether it is necessary to pollinate tomatoes on the balcony? I have considered only self-pollinating varieties, so nothing needs to be done, but to improve the set of plants, I still advise lightly shaking the plants in the morning;

Treat the plants with the drug "Ovary" before pollinating them by shaking, fruit formation will noticeably improve

• To speed up the formation of fruits and their ripening, the method of tearing the roots is used, for this you need to take hold of the base of the plant and pull it up slightly. You should not be too zealous, you need to tear the small roots, and thereby improve the nutrition of the ovaries;
• In order for tomatoes to ripen faster, it is necessary to remove already ripened fruits, this will help increase the flow of nutrients to green tomatoes.

Traditional technology involves harvesting in summer, but many people ask if it is possible to grow tomatoes in winter. This is possible if you follow the technology discussed above.

It is best to take the Pinocchio variety, as it grows well indoors, this is especially important if it is cool on the balcony in winter and you have to keep the plants indoors. The basic materials are the same as in the case described above, but you need to add a fluorescent lamp to the list, in winter natural lighting is not very good, so you have to use an artificial option.

Work is done like this:

• Let's figure out when to plant Pinocchio: if you need tomatoes for the new year, then you need to plant them in early October. You can do this with both dry and germinated seeds, the second option in this case is preferable due to faster germination;
• Seeds are planted in cups and located near the window, in order to ensure their high-quality lighting, at a height of 25 cm, you need to fix a fluorescent lamp and turn it on in the morning and evening, this will allow the plants to develop more intensively;

• In this case, it makes no sense to harden the plants, because they will always be in the room, it is much more important to provide the right temperature for the plants;
• After transplanting into pots, you must again place a lamp over the plants, since without light, tomatoes grow much more slowly;
• Should I pollinate tomatoes? Everything is the same here as in the first case: shake the plants slightly during the flowering period and use preparations to improve fruit formation, in winter they are especially relevant.
• When the fruits begin to ripen, do not wait for them to turn completely red, you can also remove brown tomatoes, they will ripen on the windowsill, but the rest of the tomatoes will get more nutrients and they will ripen faster.