Floor in a wooden house with an underground. Floors in a wooden house: types and designs of floors in a private house, the laying process
Do-it-yourself wooden flooring is quite possible, if you first study the instructions for this work. Boardwalk has always been more popular than floors made from other materials, as it differs from them in its natural warmth, environmental friendliness and the ability to create a specific, especially healthy microclimate in residential premises.
Most often, coniferous wood is selected for flooring in the house. Mostly larch is used, which shows particular resistance to both temperature extremes and high humidity. Due to the natural antiseptic qualities of this tree, destructive fungal formations do not appear on it, which means that the processes of decay and destruction are excluded.
Gender Requirements
Wooden flooring must meet certain requirements, without which the floors will not last long and will not be comfortable for residents. These criteria can be safely attributed to:
- Effective soundproofing and thermal insulation of rooms.
- Reliability and durability of a wooden covering.
- Wear resistance, and therefore - the durability of the floor.
- Moisture resistance and hygiene - cleaning the floor should not cause any particular difficulties.
- The aesthetics of wooden flooring - it should become a decoration of the room.
- Ease of installation work.
To achieve all the mentioned qualities of a wooden floor, you need to choose the right material for its installation.
Material selection criteria
In order for the floors to serve for a long time without drying out the boards and their deformation, when choosing wood, you need to pay attention to the following material parameters:
- grade. For a finish coating, it is better to choose the highest or first grade of the board, and for rough flooring, grade 2 ÷ 3 is usually bought. If the finished floor is covered with paint, then second-rate material is quite suitable for it.
The quality of the wood will directly depend on the grade of wood. Even when purchasing the highest grade material, it is necessary to pay attention to the presence of possible defects, such as chips, cracks and knots - they must either be completely absent, or be in a minimal amount.
- It is very important to pay attention to the drying of wood. It must have a certain humidity, otherwise, over the years, gaps will appear between the boards, and the floorboards themselves will become deformed. Humidity for finishing boards cannot exceed 12%, and for roughing - not more than 17%.
- The length of the bars and boards should ideally correspond to the length and width of the room where the floor will be laid.
- The standard thickness of floorboards is 120×25mm and 100×25mm. This parameter is selected depending on the step of laying the lag on which the boards will be fixed. According to the existing technology, these distances should be selected in accordance with the data given in the table:
| Step between lags in mm | Floorboard thickness in mm |
|---|---|
| 300 | 20 |
| 400 | 24 |
| 500 | 30 |
| 600 | 35 |
| 700 | 40 |
| 800 | 45 |
| 900 | 50 |
| 1000 | 55 |
When buying any building material, after the necessary calculations have been made, it is necessary to add 15% in reserve to this amount - this rule has been verified by experienced builders, therefore it is recommended to follow it.
Wood preparation
Before the process of installing the lag and flooring of the floorboards, they must be prepared. Usually, flooring material is sold already planed, but if burrs are detected during inspection, they must be removed with an electric planer.
Their installation is started only after the material has completely dried.
The choice of floor design
Knowing all the requirements that apply to the coating material, you need to decide on the design of the floor, since for each specific case, its own option is suitable, depending on the conditions in which the installation will take place.
There are several main types of wooden floor designs:
- Floors on logs laid on floor beams. In this case, plywood or boards can be used for the finishing floor.
- "Floating" construction - boards laid on a concrete base, but not attached to it .
- Coating fixed on logs laid on the ground.
These methods of arranging a wooden floor have become the most popular, as they give creative freedom to the master, who can bring his own adjustments to the design. But, one way or another, for each room it is necessary to choose the only option that suits it to a greater extent.
Floor beam system
- Logs, as the basis for the floor, can be fixed to floor beams, which, in turn, are laid on a columnar or strip foundation. This is permissible if the room where the floor is arranged has a width of no more than 2.5 ÷ 3 m.
- To create an air gap, floor beams are often raised above the ground to a certain height, laying them on top waterproofed foundation surface. They can be rigidly fixed to it or simply securely laid on top. The second option is chosen in the event that the foundation has not yet had time to shrink, and when it does, it will not pull the floor system along with it, which will certainly begin to deform from such an impact.
- With a large width of the room (more than 3 meters), columns can be additionally installed between the walls, which will create rigidity for the floor system. Waterproofing is necessarily laid on all supporting structures under the beams of the base of the floor, so that the wooden parts serve as long as possible.
What should be the thickness of the lag and floor beams? This mainly depends on the width of the free span (distance between adjacent support points). Usually proceed from the following indicators (see table):
- After the floor beams are installed, the logs need to be fixed on them. The distance between them, as already mentioned, is calculated according to the thickness of the selected floorboards.
- When arranging such a “floating” floor structure, the logs, and then the boards, should be located at a distance of at least 12 ÷ 15 mm from the walls, that is, be independent of them. A material is laid in the opening between the walls and the floor system, which will not allow cold air to enter the room, allow the wood to “breathe”, and expand freely when temperature and humidity changes.
- When laying logs consisting of two separate sections, their overlapping by 400 ÷ 500 mm should be on the support posts or on the beam. The logs should be aligned with the building level, if necessary, to achieve an ideal horizontal, small pieces of wood are placed under the logs.
- After the logs are set and fixed, it is recommended to arrange a subfloor, for which low quality boards are quite suitable. To install them, cranial bars 30 × 50 mm in size are screwed on the entire length of the lag from below.
- The boards of the subfloor are not always fixed to the cranial bars, usually they are simply laid tightly to each other. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the subfloor, fixing it with staples to the logs and boards.
- Between the lags, the vapor barrier is tightly laid - it can be mineral wool in mats or rolls, as well as dry filling from expanded clay or slag.
- Another layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation. Its individual sheets are glued together with adhesive tape, and then the film is attached to the logs with staples.
- The top layer of vapor barrier is necessary so that dust and particles of insulation material cannot enter the living quarters. On top of this entire floor system, floorboards or thick plywood will then be laid.
Prices for various types of timber
Logs fixed to the concrete pavement
Often, to create a layer for the floor in apartments, a wooden floor on logs is also arranged on a concrete base. Here, the whole difficulty lies in leveling the lag on the surface, especially if it is planned to raise the wooden covering a few centimeters above the concrete slab.
If the apartment is located above the first floor, then most often the logs are laid out, leveled, and then fixed to the concrete base using anchors.
Both in the first and in the second version, the lags are drilled through. To raise the log above the base, use different metal and plastic elements. In this case, the photo shows the studs. They allow you to raise and lower the logs on one side or the other, aligning them in level. The extra piece of the hairpin, after removing the lag to the desired height, is cut off with a grinder.
In each of the options, a heater can be laid on the concrete between the lags, which will add thermal insulation to the coating, and also help to drown out the noise, both from the lower apartment and from the rooms where the logs are installed under the wooden floor. Mineral wool, polystyrene or can be used as an insulating material.
Flooring on concrete floor
Sometimes a wooden floor is laid on a concrete floor without the use of a log. As a covering, floorboards or plywood are used. It is advisable to lay a thin insulating material under such a floor - most often foamed polyethylene is used for this, but it is better to choose one that has a foil coating.
Separate sheets of the substrate material are fastened together with adhesive tape to create a solid coating - it will make the floor warmer and drown out noise. If plywood is used for flooring, you need to remember that it is necessary to lay a decorative coating on top of it. Floors made of sufficiently thick boards will look respectable if they are varnished, waxed or of high quality paint.
Floor board installation
Having chosen the boards of the required thickness, it is important to determine the correct direction of their laying on the floor. As many years of experience show, the best option for laying boards is in the direction of natural light, that is, from the window. Therefore, planning the laying of the board should begin with marking and fixing the lag.
Floorboards have different types of connection:
1. Connection using an insert-liner in the grooves of two boards.
2. Groove-thorn connection in the presence of tongue-and-groove boards.
3. Connection "in a quarter".
The last type of connection is the easiest to install, so floorboards with such an attachment are most often used. In addition, the "quarter" connection creates a single coating with almost imperceptible gaps between the boards, so it optimally retains heat in the room.
Boards can be fixed to two ways of fastening:
- Nails or self-tapping screws can be driven into the groove located on the side of the board, at an angle of about 45 degrees, with the cap recessed into the wood. Some craftsmen prefer to do the opposite, driving the screws at an angle into the edge of the spike.
- In the second option, nails or self-tapping screws are driven in or screwed into the front plane of the board.
- Starting to install floorboards, it is necessary to step back from the wall 12 ÷ 15 mm. Later, a strip of insulation is laid in this gap, and closed with an installed plinth. It is necessary for the tree to expand with changes in humidity and air temperature.
- The board is attached to the joists with nails 80 ÷ 120 mm or self-tapping screws 70 ÷ 100 mm. Hats are driven under zatay”, later they are sealed with putty matched to the color of the wood.
- If insufficiently seasoned wood is used, then the laid floor requires a drying period that lasts 6 ÷ 8 months. During this time, the coating will shrink and shrink, gaps will increase between the boards, and therefore it will be necessary to carry out the process of relaying it. In this regard, during the initial laying of the flooring, all the floorboards are not completely nailed to the joists, but only the fifth - seventh board is attached. After drying the boards, they must be shifted, pressed as tightly as possible to each other and nailed to the logs.
- If boards with a tenon-groove connection are chosen, for a tighter connection, a mallet is used, with which, through the bar, the spikes are driven into the grooves. Often, special clamps are used for this master, especially in cases where, due to the slight curvature of the boards, the installation goes with smearing the grooves and spikes with carpentry glue.
- For a tight connection of the last board, installed against the wall, temporary wooden wedges are used, they are driven in between the wall and the board.
- The gap between the boards should not be wider than 1 mm. If the board is not installed in the groove to the end, then, most likely, a burr or some kind of roughness remains on the canvas, and this flaw must be removed, the spike must be adjusted to the groove.
Find out and also review the causes of squeaking and how to fix it, from our new article.
Video: flooring with clamps
flooring prices
Floor coverings
Floor surface treatment after final laying
After the floor has been sorted out and secured, it may be necessary to scrape its surface. This process is carried out if, during the drying of the board, it led a little, and the surface became uneven.
The starting varnish helps to reveal insufficiently smooth areas on the surface of the boards, and therefore, after it dries, it is easier to find roughness and carry out their additional sanding.
After grinding, skirting boards are installed, which will well hide the gaps between the wall and the floor boards. If, as a result of this operation, gaps remain between the floor and the plinth, then they are sealed with putty to match the color of the wood.
Now that the floor is prepared in this way, you can proceed to the final coating of the surface with wax, oil, varnish or paint.
The plank flooring is covered with a finishing compound not only to give it aesthetics and respectability, but also to protect it, which means maximum long-term operation.
Oil treatment
If the boards have a beautiful pronounced textured pattern, then special oil is often used to cover it. It makes the floors warmer, not as slippery as when coated, and also gives it antistatic properties. The oil penetrates into the structure of the wood and reliably protects it from the penetration of moisture from the outside, practically repelling it.
Wood coated with oil is less susceptible to various damages, and existing flaws become virtually invisible. The oil does not clog the pores of the wood, preserving its naturalness, allowing the material to "breathe", which creates a favorable microclimate in the living room.
Floors that are covered with oil must be protected from dust until it is completely absorbed. During operation, such a floor requires special care with special means. It is very important to remember that it is not recommended to place furniture with metal legs on such a surface, as there is a risk of unwanted reactions, as a result of which dark spots may remain on the wood.
Oil flooring is recommended in rooms with high humidity - this is a bathroom, terrace and kitchen. Such a coating is also well suited for a hallway or corridor, since boards impregnated with such a substance are more resistant to abrasion.
There are flooring compositions that do not consist of pure oil, but with the addition of liquid wax to it, which gives the floor a matte, soft sheen. Pure oils are also applied to the surface of wood, they are well absorbed into the surface, economical in application and do not require a long wait to dry.
Floor oil can be colorless, or it can have different shades that make the wood darker or give it a special, pleasant and warm color.
The oil is applied in two or three doses. It can be rubbed or applied with a brush, and its excess is immediately erased to avoid the formation of a film on top, which will create an uneven coating.
The oil composition can be applied hot and cold in several layers. The faster the wood absorbs the oil, the more layers will need to be applied. The heated composition penetrates much faster and deeper into the pores of the tree, and such a coating lasts much longer than with a cold application method.
Waxing the floor surface
Wax is most often combined with an oil coating. So, sometimes waxing occurs with a composition that consists of natural beeswax and linseed oil. Such a coating protects the floor surfaces well from scratches and dirt, as well as from moisture absorption, but will not protect the wood from cracking and intense mechanical stress. Wax coating gives the surface a pleasant matte sheen and a golden hue.
Wax is applied to the cleaned floor with a wide roller in several layers. The first of them must be very thin in order to be well absorbed into the surface. Next, the floor is sanded, and then it is covered with another layer of the composition and sanded again.
Wax combined with oil is an environmentally friendly topcoat and is very good for use in children's rooms and adult bedrooms. Wood that has undergone such processing has the properties to "breathe", so the floors will last a long time and create a favorable microclimate in the room.
Wood floor varnishing
- The varnish can be applied by brush, roller or trowel at room temperature, moderate humidity and without drafts.
- On the cleaned surface, the first layer is applied nitrolac, which will serve as a kind of primer for the finishing layers of the composition. It is applied in a thin layer along the textured wood pattern. If necessary, the primer can be applied in two layers.
- After the primer dries, the surface is well sanded with sandpaper. After that, the floor is washed with soapy water, thoroughly wiped and dried.
- After that, proceed to the application of finishing layers. There can be two or three of them, and each of them is dried and polished.
Applying varnish to floors is a rather complicated undertaking that requires careful selection of the composition for a particular type of wood. Therefore, if this particular method of processing a wooden floor is chosen, it is better to entrust the work to a specialist who will determine the amount of work and select the necessary materials.
The lacquer coating is quite fragile, which is easily damaged by mechanical stress, so it is undesirable to walk on thin heels or move furniture on it. In addition, varnishes are most often produced on chemical bases, which, by clogging the pores of wood, do not allow it to “breathe”.
Staining a wooden floor
Recently, paint is rarely used to cover a wooden floor, but it still happens, especially in cases where a special interior style is chosen. In addition, paint is used in cases where it is necessary to cover a not very attractive view of wood, since such a coating completely covers the floor surface. For such finishing, you can choose paints on different bases: oil, enamel, nitrocellulose, as well as acrylic, water-dispersion and latex.
Water-based paints are preferable for residential premises, as they do not contain solvents and additives harmful to the human body. They are produced in different color shades, so there is always an opportunity to choose the one that is more suitable for a particular interior.
Enamels and other paints based on chemical solvents are also used for living rooms, but after their application, the premises require long-term ventilation, as these fumes can pose a threat to human health.
Before painting the floor with water-based compounds, the boards are coated with a special primer. For the rest of the coating materials, preparation of the base is required with the help of impregnating compounds, in which drying oil usually acts as the main component.
The paint can be applied in one, two coats or, last resort, at three o'clok. It is recommended to choose the “golden mean”, since the paint, applied too thin, will quickly begin to wear out, and thick, on the contrary, peel off. Each coat of primer or paint must dry well before the next is applied.
It is described in great detail in the corresponding publication of our portal.
So, if you have the basic concepts of working with wood, as well as the necessary materials and tools, it is quite possible to try to lay the floors from boards or plywood on your own. If you have any questions, you can always turn for clarification and advice to articles that will help solve any problem. And at the end of the article - another interesting video on the technology of laying a wooden floor.
Video: how to prepare and lay a wooden floor
The overlapping of the first floor must be carried out in compliance with the technologies for the "warm" floor. Fortunately, on wooden beams it is possible, without stealing the cherished heights of the ceilings of the room, to make the floor cake insulated.
Plank floors
Advantages and disadvantages of wooden structures
Wooden structures are used both in private wooden and stone houses of all types. This versatility is not inherent in concrete structures. In addition, wooden structures have other advantageous properties:
- the arrangement of wooden structures is much cheaper than concrete;
- for the arrangement of monolithic concrete floors, special equipment and complex engineering work are required. And in the case of timber beams, you can do without the help of professional builders. The minimum required skills are to work with a hammer and a saw.
- concrete floors are heavy. Their heavy weight puts a lot of pressure on the foundation, which cannot be said about the light weight of wooden structures.
The wooden floor on the second floor will put less pressure on the walls than concrete - with a low density, they have sufficient bearing capacity to withstand heavy furniture.
- higher rates of sound insulation and thermal insulation compared to concrete structures;
Attention! The interfloor pie will be different because there is no need to use insulation.
- the decorative value of the beams can be used in the interior of the room, so it is not necessary to mask the logs and beams for covering the floor of the second floor with suspended ceilings.
The use of beams on the second floor in the interior There are also disadvantages that also need to be addressed:
- wood has a shorter lifespan than concrete. Therefore, to increase the service life, the beams are treated with antiseptic agents. Even so, under normal operating conditions, they can last more than 50 years.
- has the lowest refractory ability;
- floor construction on wooden beams is susceptible to moisture and rots under its influence.
But these shortcomings are indirectly related to the case, because with proper operation under normal conditions, the wooden floor structures of the first floor can last a good time.
floor structure
Construction and floor of the second floor in a wooden house Before proceeding to a detailed description of the creation of the correct "pie" of the floor of the first floor, it is worth noting the constituent elements and technical rules.
- Priming. The overlap of the first floor separates the room from the underground space, the surface of which is soil. The soil becomes a source of moisture ingress into wood structures, which can adversely affect their technical properties. Therefore, this surface must be waterproofed. On the second floor, waterproofing is not necessary.
- Ventilation must be carried out in the underground space so that moisture penetrating from the ground is weathered and does not get into the floor ceiling.
- Brick pillars on which wooden floor beams lie.
- Wooden beams. The beams serve as a supporting element for the floor joists. Depending on the step with which the beams are laid, the choice of the thickness of the boards for the supports depends. The design should easily transfer possible loads without deformation of the floor.
- Logs - transverse boards lying on the end sides. They serve as the basis for laying the finished floor in the form of floor boards or using plywood or other tile substrate.
- Insulation material is filled between the bars. In this case, it is necessary to take into account that there is a gap between the insulation and the finished floor for ventilation.
- Vapor barrier and waterproofing to protect the insulation material from moisture ingress.
- Finished floor with or without sheet and tile backing. When using boards, they are laid on the bars, and such finish coatings as laminate, parquet, tiles are placed on a leveling layer of tiled material.
When using an insulated coating, it is necessary to take care of damping gaps for ventilation under the floor.
Technology for creating an insulated cake on beams
With the constituent elements and layers of the ground floor is clear. Now we should consider the installation process and the nuances of each of the layers.
Priming
Soil compaction Soil preparation should be carried out even in the process of building a house, before the start of work on arranging the floor.
- Inside the strip foundation, a layer of soil with vegetation is removed to a depth of 15-20 cm. In this case, local soil removal can be done at the places where the pillars are installed.
- The uneven base is leveled with sand with a moisture content of not more than 4%. Dry soil is poured over the sand at the level of the removed soil and carefully compacted.
- The filling base is moistened and crushed stone or gravel a few centimeters deep must be pressed into its structure.
- On top of the bulk soil there should be a layer of sand-crushed stone mixture, which is compacted and rammed.
Attention! The replacement of soft soil layers is necessary in advance, because the crushed stone and sand on the surface will be compacted over time and form a stable surface for laying brick pillars.
Brick pillars under the beams
On the compacted surface of the soil, under the places of the pillars, a layer of waterproofing made of roofing material should be laid. Brick pillars are built on the waterproofing layer, on which the floor beams will be laid.
It is desirable to carry out a waterproofing layer between the pillars so that moisture cannot penetrate into the underground space.
brick pillars Brick pillars must be built according to the level of the foundation, because the bars will lie on the foundation, and the pillars will perform a reinforcing function.
The distance between the posts should be 70-100 cm in one row, and between the rows - 180-220 cm. The bars are used with a section of 150x150 mm.
Installing lags
Lags are laid perpendicular to the incident light so that the finish coat lies along the windows. If the sun's rays are in the direction of the boards, then the gaps between them are better visible.
Finished floor support system First of all, they put the extreme ones with the establishment of a gap of 2-3 cm from the wall. Subsequently, intermediate ones are laid.
For supports under the finish coating, bars with a section of 150x50 mm are used, which are attached to the beams with squares. With the correct installation of the previous structural elements in terms of level, the bars will be laid faster and easier. In this case, it is still necessary to check the level with a rule of 2 meters, because there may be individual defects in the bars.
Skull bars and subfloor
The use of insulation material without using subfloors is impossible.
A rough floor is installed from unedged boards or low-grade plywood on screws screwed into cranial bars with a section of 4x4 cm.
skull bar Cranial bars are attached either from the lower end side across, or from the lower side between the lags longitudinally to it. The second option is preferable because this method of fastening allows you to ensure the strength of the structure.
A draft floor of 20 mm boards is laid on top of the cranial bars and a layer of vapor barrier is laid on them. Thus, when attaching cranial bars of 4 cm and boards of 2 cm, 7 cm out of 9 remain for the insulation material. As already mentioned, lay the insulation without a gap flush with the upper end side of the bars - do not allow air to ventilate above it.
Insulation circuit
Rolled mineral wool As a heater, you can use various materials. The most common and popular material is mineral wool. It is worth noting a few nuances of laying mineral wool slabs.
- There are various thicknesses of mineral wool. It is better to use a thermal insulation circuit of mineral wool boards in 2 layers, and not in 1. This will allow the top layer of the boards to overlap the joints of the lower layer.
- If it is necessary to insulate 7 cm out of 9 remaining height of the boards, plates of various thicknesses of 45 and 30 mm can be used.
- When choosing mineral wool as an insulating material, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a standard material width of 61 cm. Thus, the bars can be installed in 60 cm increments so that you do not have to cut the slabs.
- When using a different step, it should be borne in mind that the plates should be cut 1 cm wider in width so that the material goes between the boards with emphasis on the sides.
Important! If expanded clay is used as a heater, then with the same thickness of the insulation layer, the heat-shielding properties will be 2 times less.
Insulating layers
The insulation material must be protected from moisture and water from the upper side of the room, therefore a waterproofing layer is laid.
Polyethylene film can be used as a waterproofing agent. The sheets overlap each other by 20-25 cm and are fixed with construction tape.
Finished floors
Finishing floors can be made of grooved boards. With a step of support bars of 60 cm, convenient for laying mineral wool, the board thickness of 35 mm will be optimal. When using a smaller pitch, you can use a smaller thickness of the boards.
On top of the bars, you can put plywood or OSB boards with a thickness of 16-20 mm, on top of which there is a finish coat.
The floor cake on the beams of the first floor has a multi-layered structure. In order for wooden structures to serve their due period, it is necessary to follow the technical rules for laying each of the layers.
Wooden flooring is a classic solution in construction and renovation. No modern composite materials can replace home warmth and ecological cleanliness of wood. Despite the fact that wood loses to concrete or composites in terms of strength and reliability, its natural attractiveness will be popular with builders for a long time to come. The device of the floor in a wooden house has been worked out for many generations, so it should not cause any problems even for not very experienced craftsmen.
It is possible to arrange the floor in a wooden structure using various technologies. Consider the procedure for performing work, the materials, tools and equipment used in this case.
The scheme of the floor in a house made of wood on pillars
Building a floor of this design is advisable if you do not intend to lay support or load-bearing beams in the walls of your house for building a floor. In this case, the floor will be constructed according to a free "floating" scheme and will not be connected in any way with the external walls of the building. Also, this floor design is used in the construction of floors in wooden buildings on soils with a high level of soil water.
Flooring in a wooden house of this design can be divided into two types.
- Single wooden plank flooring. This type of floor is the easiest to build and further use and repair. It is recommended to use this design in small cottages in summer cottages built for seasonal use.
- double floor. This type of floor is built in buildings designed for year-round use. When using this technology, two floorings are built: black and fine, in the interval between them insulation from heat loss and moisture penetration is placed.
The technology of building a floor in houses made of wooden materials on supports
Step 1. Excavate the ground in your subfloor space. The pit must be dug more than half a meter deep from the lower level of the planned floor. In a dug pit, place a pillow of crushed stone, gravel or river sand cleaned of organic matter. It is recommended that the top edge of the cushion rise above the ground level in the area near the foundation by about 20 centimeters.
Step 2 Support pillars for the floor can be formed from red burnt bricks. So, if you plan to lay the floor on supports 25 centimeters high, then its optimal width will be 1.5 bricks. With a support height of more than 25 centimeters, the pillar is placed in two bricks.
There are other technologies for installing supports. For example, you can place monolithic concrete pillars underground. In this case, the concrete mortar is poured into a pre-built wooden formwork, inside which a metal frame of reinforcement is mounted.
Concrete mortar can also be poured into vertically installed and deepened into a gravel cushion segments of asbestos-cement pipes, inside which a frame of reinforcement is also placed.
In any case, when choosing a technology for erecting support pillars, it is necessary to pay attention to their uniform upper level. The best control device is a laser level or level. The distance between the pillars-supports horizontally and vertically is about a meter.
Step 3 A layer of waterproofing is laid on each pillar-support. The easiest way to do this is to use two combined layers of sheet insulation, such as roofing felt.
Step 4.A wooden plate 30 mm thick is placed on the waterproofing layer.
Step 5.Lag beams are laid on the support pillars. Usually they are built from a thick wooden beam, cut down from coniferous wood and treated with an antiseptic. The connection points of the lag should fall on the pillars. During construction, control the horizontal position of the upper surface of the log. You can adjust the position of the lag with the help of counter wedges. Depending on the width of the wooden boards used in the construction of the floor, the distance between adjacent logs can vary in the range of 60-80 cm.
Step 6.A wooden flooring is laid on the laid logs. To create an aesthetic appearance, it is better to lay the wooden floor boards parallel to the directions of the light falling from the windows of the room. The first board is laid with a gap of up to 15 mm from the wall. Then this space will be closed with a plinth, but the gap will ensure the movement of air into the underground space.
Step 7.Solid wood boards are fastened to joists with nails. The minimum length of the connecting nail should be twice the thickness of the board. Nails are hammered under a slope so that the axis of rotation of the nail does not coincide with the plane of the interface between the board and the supporting log. The optimal angle of inclination is 30-45 degrees to the vertical. Nail heads are completely sunk into the board by blows from the sharp side of the hammer. Then, after the puttying and painting process, the nail heads will disappear from view.
We nail the boards with nails at an acute angle
Step 8.A plinth rail is nailed over the boards along the perimeter of the walls. Near the two opposite walls of the room, a temporary plinth is mounted, which is fixed a couple of centimeters from the walls. The slots will provide ventilation until the final drying of the array of boards, and then they will be closed with a permanent baseboard.
Please note that in the event that a room with a floor on concrete or brick pillars is not heated in winter, the supports may “lead” and the geometry of the wooden floor structure will be broken. A layer of slag can give additional thermal insulation to the underground space, but there must be a space of at least 5 centimeters between its upper edge and the wooden floor to ensure ventilation.
How to Build a Single Plank Floor in a Wooden House
If, when building walls in a wooden house, you provided for the laying of support beams, then the most affordable way to build a floor would be to lay a single plank floor. Usually the gap between the support beams is at least a meter.
- Logs for laying the floor are mounted on top of the support bars. For their construction, wooden bars with a side of 50-60 millimeters are used. The distance between the joists depends on the width of the tongue-and-groove board used for laying the floor:
- if you use a board with a thickness of 30 mm, then the distance between the lags should be no more than half a meter;
- if you use a grooved board with a thickness of 400 mm or more, then the optimal distance between the lags will be 50-60 centimeters. - When laying the lathing from the log, be sure to check the horizontalness of the upper level of the bars. It is advisable to use a laser or conventional building level for this, adjusting the height of the log with the help of counter wedges knocked under it.
- Logs are fixed to the supporting beams by means of long nails or carpentry staples.
- The plank floor of a single structure is laid directly on the logs. For laying the finishing floor in one layer, a tongue-and-groove board is used. Its fastening is traditional: the next board is inserted into the lock of the previous one, adjusted by tapping with a mallet, and then nailed to the log with a long nail that enters the body of the board at a slight slope. The heads of the nails are recessed into the body of the board. If you plan to place a finishing floor covering on the floor in one layer, then it is possible to use unedged boards.
- Finished tongue and groove flooring is sanded and then varnished or painted. A finishing decorative coating, such as linoleum, is laid on the draft floor layer.
This is a very fast and affordable way to build a floor in a wooden building. However, the thermal insulation of this design leaves much to be desired and in a house designed for year-round use, it is better to build a double floor structure.
We build a floor in two layers in a wooden structure
Unlike a single floor, a double floor consists of two layers: finishing and rough.
Step 1
Logs are mounted on the support bearing beams, to which cranial additional bars are nailed.
Step 2
On the cranial additional bars in the transverse direction, the boards of the rough layer of the flooring are nailed. You can use unedged softwood boards of various thicknesses (15-45 mm). Before laying the boards are treated with an antiseptic. The boards to be laid are tightly fitted to each other so that minimal gaps remain.
Step 3
A layer of vapor barrier made of durable polyethylene is laid on the rough flooring. Its stripes overlap.
Step 5
Logs are laid on the draft floor. Their height is selected depending on the required level of insulation (usually 50 mm).
Step 6
Between the lags is an insulating layer. The choice of material for insulation depends solely on your budget and preferences:
- rolled mineral wool roll;
- foamed polymer boards (for example, polystyrene foam);
- a layer of backfill material, such as expanded clay or a mixture of clay with sawdust;
- underfloor heating piping system.
Step 7
Another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer. If you are building a warm water floor in the thickness of a wooden one, the top layer of waterproofing is not used. When constructing a floor with passive thermal insulation, a gap of 1-1.5 centimeters is left between the upper edge of the thermal insulation layer.
Step 8
Groove boards are laid on top of this entire “sandwich”. The technology for their installation has already been described above.
Step 9
During installation, ventilation holes with a cross section of about 5 centimeters are left in the corners of the room, which are closed with decorative grilles. The surface of the gratings rises above the floor by a couple of centimeters. This elevation protects the grate from moisture.
The underground is also ventilated through the windows in the basement walls. In winter, all types of ventilation windows are blocked.
Features of the construction of the floor on the first floor of wooden buildings
When constructing a floor on the lower first or basement floor of a wooden house above unheated basements, there are certain features.
Cold floor located directly on the ground (no underground)
A cold floor located directly on the ground (without underground) is built if there is dry soil under the house and if the floor of the first floor of the building is high. The underground of such a floor consists of 4 layers:
- compacted sand cushion;
- dry, clean, calcined sand;
- log (beams from coniferous trees with a thickness of more than 15 centimeters), buried in a poured soil base and resting on recesses in the outer walls of the room;
- single plank flooring with a thickness of 30-40 mm.
Insulated floor with unheated underground space
The procedure for the construction of an insulated floor with an unheated underground space
- Placement in the underground of a pillow made of compacted sand cleaned of organic matter (thickness 10-15 cm).
- Installation of support posts with a height of at least half a meter. A very simple and economical way to install the supports is to pour concrete mortar into segments of vertically standing pipes with a metal frame inside.
- Laying a double layer of waterproofing on the surface of the supports.
- Placement of wooden dies with a thickness of 30 mm.
- Laying load-bearing beams.
- In order to carry out thermal insulation of the floor using this technology, slats (about 15 mm in cross section) are nailed to the side ends of the log, on which a draft floor layer of cut unedged boards is laid.
- A vapor barrier film and a layer of insulation are laid on the draft layer of the flooring (the level of the flooring is just below the finishing floor). On top of the beams, a plank floor or a covering of wood-based panels is laid.
Cold floor with heated underfloor space
A cold floor with a heated underground space is used in construction on soils with a low level of soil water. The technology of its installation coincides with the previous one, up to the installation stage of the subfloor. After installing the lag, a finishing floor is mounted on top of them without creating a heat-insulating layer.
Watch the instructional video to learn more about the construction steps.
Video - Floor device in a wooden house
A wooden house is associated with comfort and warmth. Natural wood materials create a special atmosphere, they are safe for health. At the same time, wood requires special care and compliance with the requirements of operation. Building a floor in a wooden house also involves a special approach. Let's see how we can do it right.
Gender Requirements
A properly laid floor in a wooden house must satisfy such parameters as practicality and durability. It needs to be warm and even. Not the last role is played by its aesthetic appearance. If we lay the floor with additional insulation, we must not forget that in this case it will be necessary to raise it.
To lay the floor with your own hands in accordance with these requirements, you need to determine the order of work, take into account all the individual features of the operation and design of the building.
The whole process can be conditionally divided into several stages:
- Consideration of the properties of various floor structures;
- Studying the laying process depending on the type chosen;
- Construction and installation of the selected type of structure.
The most common types of flooring in a wooden house are concrete, plywood or laid on logs. With the help of logs or concrete screed, you can raise the level of the floor. In the photo you can see how the floor looks like using different materials.
For your information: In this case, regardless of the type chosen, it is possible to equip the floor heating system. This will be very useful for year-round living in the house. Similar designs also allow you to raise the level of the floor.
Features of the concrete floor
- Minimum time spent on work, compared with a full-fledged overlap of wood materials;
- Cost reduction;
- In order to arrange a concrete floor with your own hands, special construction skills are not required. It is enough to fill the screed in accordance with the level. The result is a leveled surface on which any floor covering can be laid.
The disadvantages include:
- A tangible load on the foundation, so you should first carry out calculations to avoid problems in this area;
- Small fluctuations can cause cracks in the concrete surface, which threatens heat loss.
Wooden design features
A wooden base, like any other, has its advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include:
- safety for health, the tree does not emit any hazardous substances;
- you can design any design design;
- if necessary, all work can be carried out with improvised tools and materials.
We must not forget that the floor in a wooden house has served for many years, it is necessary to lay it in compliance with all requirements and recommendations. This will avoid subsidence of the floor, because then you will either have to replace the floor, or be puzzled by the question of how to raise it.
The disadvantages include:
- complexity of installation;
- high price;
- duration of work;
- the difficulty of leveling the structure.
What is the design of a wooden floor?
In order to properly lay the floor with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that its design consists of a subfloor, a layer of thermal and waterproofing, a finished floor and a floor covering.
The design can be two-layer or single. If we stele in the second way, then there may be no lag. Their presence or absence is determined by the thickness of the boards and the distance between the beams.
Sometimes it happens that a wooden structure is displaced under the influence of various factors, which leads to deformation of the subfloor. When building a multilayer structure, the immobile state of the upper layers is ensured.
In the presence of support pillars, as well as in cases where beams are inserted into house walls, it is necessary to lay the logs in a mandatory order.
How to make flooring using a log?
You can put a draft floor in a wooden house with your own hands using one of two options:
- on the logs;
- using floor beams.
Logs allow you to raise the level of the floor, so it is not always rational to use them in rooms with a low ceiling. They are attached either on top of the foundation, or to the walls of the log house. Before putting the material, the logs should be brought into the room in order to acclimatize them, where they should stay for several days.
Stele as follows:
- We place two of them along opposite walls and connect them with nylon threads, they should be placed at a distance of one and a half meters from each other. These threads will be used as guidelines for attaching the remaining lags. The space between the lags is filled with a layer of insulation;
- When thick boards of 30 or 40 cm are used, the distance between the lags can be up to 0.8 m. When the boards are less than 30 cm thick, the distance between the lags must be reduced to 0.5-0.6 m. When the boards are thicker than 40 cm, the distance can reach 1 m;
- The use of chipboard or fiberboard wedges can level the floor surface by adjusting the level of the joist height. Such wedges are fixed with self-tapping screws or long nails;
- When it is supposed to mount the lag on top of a concrete base, then the mount can be made with dowels or anchors. In no case should one forget about the treatment of lags with an antiseptic composition;
- The next step is to lay and strengthen the boards. The first row is fastened with a 1.5 cm indent from the walls. Requires pre-drilling holes for self-tapping screws;
- We lay the boards on each of the lags, after which we fix it. The gaps that remain between the walls and the floor from the boards are closed with skirting boards. You can also use staples, they are connected to the boards and fastened with nails. On the video you can see how this process is carried out.
If fiberboard or chipboard is selected as the base for the floor
Using this method, you can also raise the floor with your own hands in a wooden house. In order to lay the subfloor, you can choose plywood, chipboard or fiberboard. This material is characterized by reliability, durability, it does not give in to deformation. In addition, if necessary, materials such as fiberboard or chipboard can be easily dismantled and replaced.
The sheet laying scheme must be pre-thought out and marked out. Then, in accordance with the markings, lay the lags. In the photo you can see an example of such a scheme.
To lay the floor even, you can use beacons. To do this, you need to install them on the entire surface of the floor. For these purposes, the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room is divided into squares of 30-40 cm, at the corners of which self-tapping screws are screwed. To install beacons, you need a level. After that, you can lay the logs, on which in the future it is supposed to lay chipboard or fiberboard.
The thickness of the sheets of chipboard or fiberboard determines what will be the distance between the lags. In general, it is not more than 40 cm. When boards are installed across between the bars, they should be fixed at a distance of half a meter from each other.
From sagging lags, you can also make substrates from pieces of chipboard or fiberboard, which must first be lubricated with parquet glue. Impregnation of the entire surface of the floor with glue will avoid cod. Between the lags and sheets of chipboard, fiberboard or plywood we make a layer of moisture-proof material.
It is desirable that all the edges of the sheets used fall on the logs, and the chipboard (DFP) sheets themselves are laid at a distance of a couple of millimeters from each other, this is necessary in case of material deformation. Joints must be sanded to level the surface. On the video you can see how you can lay sheets of plywood (chipboard, fiberboard or other material).
Making a clean floor
It is best to lay a finishing floor with your own hands using tongue-and-groove boards (pictured below). They imply a convenient connection with each other. When one board is attached to the previous one with a special lock.
You can adjust the boards to each other with a mallet, tapping on them. You can fix the board to the joists with long nails, which should be driven in at a slight angle, sinking the nail head into the board.
A finished floor made of grooved boards must be sanded and varnished or painted.
The arrangement of the finished floor with tongue-and-groove boards is suitable for both double and single construction. Double, of course, will be much warmer. She should be preferred for year-round living in a wooden house. A diagram of this design can be seen in the photo.
How to lower the floor?
Owners of old houses often have to deal with the problem of low ceilings. To increase the space with your own hands, it is best to raise the ceiling. If this is not possible, the floor surface can be lowered.
Wooden floors allow you to keep warm in the house with the use of minimal technical and material means. It is thanks to this feature that such floors have remained and remain the most common throughout their centuries-old history and do not yield their leadership even to the most modern high-tech flooring and coatings.
Floors made of high-quality wood, with proper care, retain their performance characteristics for centuries, are relatively inexpensive, versatile (they can be installed on any type of base), harmless to the human body and look very impressive. If necessary, they themselves can serve as the basis for a different type of flooring. In addition, wooden floors are quite easy to install and can be installed in a private house or apartment by just one person.
General principles for wooden floors
Directly sexual boards are always laid on logs, but the logs themselves can be laid both on a concrete or even earthen base, and on supports - usually these are brick, wooden or metal poles. Rarely, but still, a technology is used in which the ends of the lag are embedded in opposite walls or laid on specially provided ledges near the walls and are operated without intermediate supports. However, in this case, it is very difficult to block wide spans - logs of a very large cross section and weight are required, and it is almost impossible to install them correctly alone ...
Installation of wooden floors on a concrete base practically no different from the arrangement of floors in an apartment with floors made of reinforced concrete slabs. Much more difficult is the case with floor installation on the first floor of a private house, since in this case it is highly desirable to arrange a ventilated and DRY underground. Its presence largely determines the strength and durability of the finished floor, especially in cases of high groundwater.
A few words about the tool
From the chosen method of floor installation depends on what tool you need for work. But in any case, you can not do without:
- laser level; in extreme cases, you can use the hydraulic level, but you will need an assistant to work with it;
- conventional or cross building bubble level with a length of at least 1 meter; the cross level is preferable, since it allows you to align the plane simultaneously in two directions;
- hammer weighing no more than 500 g;
- chain or circular saw, or a good hacksaw.
- jointer and (or) grinders.
The usual carpentry tool will not be superfluous - a square, a small ax, a planer, a chisel, a nail puller.
Floor installation on support poles
Traditionally, a wooden floor is assembled from the following "layers" (from bottom to top):
- the basis of all flooring is logs;
- rough ("lower") floor;
- waterproofing layer;
- thermal insulation layer;
- directly wooden floor (finishing flooring);
- finishing flooring.
This whole multi-layered "sandwich" is usually kept on supporting pillars - concrete, brick, wood or metal.
Installation of brick pillars
The best choice today is brick pillars that have acceptable strength characteristics, are quite affordable from a financial point of view and do not require much labor during construction. The only limitation is the height of such supporting pillars should not exceed 1.5 m; if it is larger, in order to maintain the strength of the supports, it will be necessary to increase their cross section, which will lead to a sharp increase in the required amount of bricks and, accordingly, an increase in material costs for construction. With a height of pillars up to 50-60 cm, a section of 1x1 brick is enough, with a height of 0.6-1.2 m, the section is made at least 1.5x1.5 bricks, columns up to 1.5 m high are laid out at least 2x2 bricks.
Anyway under the brick supports it is necessary to pour concrete "pyataks", the area of which exceeds the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe columns by at least 10 cm in each direction. The distance between the centers of the platforms is selected within 0.7-1 m ALONG the log and 0.8-1.2 m BETWEEN the logs with a section of 100 ... 150x150 mm. After marking, holes about half a meter deep are pulled out in the places where the pillars are erected; the main thing is that the bottom should be below the fertile layer of the earth. At the bottom of these mini-pits, a sand and gravel "cushion" is made, on which the concrete mixture is poured. It is desirable that the surface of the resulting "penny" is a few centimeters above ground level.
It is at the stage of laying out the supporting pillars the horizontality of the future floor is laid, and it is at this stage that it is best to use a laser level. With its help, the level of the LOWER EDGE of the LAG plus 1 cm is marked on the walls, a construction cord is stretched between opposite walls along this level, and the height of the pillars is already adjusted to its level. It is not necessary to bring it strictly down to a millimeter - a gap of a couple of centimeters is quite acceptable. When calculating the total thickness of the floor, it should be taken into account that at least its upper plane must be higher than the level of the basement of the building - otherwise it will be extremely difficult to avoid "cold bridges".
Some features of the pillars
It is worth considering them the presence of fasteners for beams-lag. Usually, as such fasteners, vertical “studs” with threads or anchor bolts embedded in 10-20 cm are used - later, through holes are drilled in the logs in appropriate places, with which the beams are “put on” on the resulting pins, and are attracted by nuts with washers. The protruding excess of the "thread" is cut off by the "grinder".
The lateral surfaces of the columns and, especially, their upper plane on which the lag will be laid, preferably cover with a layer of durable plaster- it will additionally strengthen the structure and play the role of additional waterproofing. On the surface of the finished columns is laid 2-3 layers of small pieces of roofing material.
After the masonry mortar has completely dried and hardened (it takes about a week), logs can already be laid on the finished support pillars.
Laying lag on brick columns
The length of the lag is selected depending on the design of the floor. When laying on supporting pillars, there are only two options for such structures - “floating” and rigid.
Floating or hard floors?
In the first case, the entire "sandwich" of the floor lies and rests solely on the posts, without being rigidly tied to the walls or. In the second, the ends of the log are rigidly attached to the walls in one way or another; this design virtually eliminates the “walking” of the flooring, but when the building subsides, it may well lead to deformation of the finished floors.
With a "floating" version of the floor, the length of the log is 3-5 cm less than the distance from wall to wall. In the second case, the gap should be no more than 2 cm - otherwise the logs will be difficult to rigidly attach to the walls. If necessary, logs can be made from two or more pieces, connecting them into "half-paws" - but the joint must necessarily fall on the support post and be nailed or (for a lag section of up to 10x100 mm) screwed with self-tapping screws.
If the final length of the lag is less than three meters, then they can be laid directly on the supports (not forgetting the roofing material waterproofing gaskets!); however, it is much better between the roofing material and the lower plane of the beam-lag to lay flat a piece of board with a thickness of 25-50 mm. In the case of butt lags, this must be done!
Log alignment
After laying out the lag on the prepared support pillars, they must be "set" in level. This is done as follows: with the help of wooden spacers of small thickness two extreme beams are laid strictly horizontally, according to a pre-calculated and marked height level. Gaskets are still used only on the extreme support pillars, while you can ignore the intermediate ones. The ends of the exposed logs are nailed to the walls; in the case of "floating" floors, this fastening will be temporary.
On both sides, at a distance of 0.3-0.5 m from the walls, on the upper planes of the laid lag tightly the construction cord is pulled. All other intermediate beams are displayed on it; then, if necessary, gaskets are installed between the remaining posts and lags. ALL gaskets must be RIGIDLY tied (nailed) to the joists, and, if possible, to the support posts. The beams should lie tightly on the pillars, in extreme cases, gaps of no more than 2 mm are allowed - but not on adjacent pillars.
Draft floor
After laying the log, a draft floor is made. To do this, along the entire length of the lower cut of the log, a narrow bar (“cranial” bar) is nailed on each side of it. Raw boards with a length equal to the distance between the lags are laid on it between the lags. After laying, these boards are “solid” covered with a vapor barrier film, on which insulation is applied or poured. From above, everything is completely covered with a windproof cloth.
Underfloor ventilation
When arranging the floor on brick pillars in the underground space ventilation must be provided- forced (with a large cubic capacity of the underground) or natural. An obligatory element of such ventilation is the so-called "perfume": Through holes in or walls below floor level. Such openings should be available around the entire perimeter of the building and under internal partitions, the distance between them should not exceed 3 m.
The dimensions of the vents are usually chosen 10x10 cm, the center of the hole should be at a height of 0.3-0.4 m from the ground level (above the thickness of the winter snow cover). Be sure to provide for the possibility of overlapping the ducts in the winter. In addition, in order to protect against rodents, the openings of the vents are closed with a mesh with a fine mesh.
When unless the underground is too deep(no more than 0.5 m) and the installation of products is difficult, ventilation holes are made in the floor itself - usually in the corners. These openings are covered with decorative grilles and must always be open.
How to properly lay floors
Before laying the floorboards, the insulation is covered with a windproof sheet. The choice of board depends on what kind of surface the finished floor will be. If it is conceived as natural, a tongue-and-groove floorboard (with a lock) is required; if linoleum or laminate is to be laid, it is quite possible to get by with an ordinary edged board. BUT IN ANY CASE THE WOOD MUST BE WELL DRY!
We fasten the grooved board to the lags
The first board is placed with a gap of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, and not close to it, with a spike to the wall. The following boards are pressed against the previous ones with the help of some kind of stop (clamps, for example) and a pair of wooden wedges. Boards, especially if they are thicker than 25 mm, are nailed - self-tapping screws are not suitable in this case, they do not attract the board to the upper surface of the log. The specified gap of 1-1.5 cm must be maintained around the entire perimeter of the room. The existing joints of the ends of the floorboards must be staggered.
Floor finishing
After laying the floorboard, the floor is ready for finishing, which consists in its sanding (sanding) and coating with paint or varnish. It is almost impossible to do this manually - you should use an electric jointer or grinder. After this very dusty procedure, all “opened” Treat cracks and crevices between boards with wood putty made on the basis of drying oil. The last operation before painting is fixing the baseboard around the perimeter of the room.
The polished surface is painted or varnished, for example, yacht; modern paints and varnishes allow you to imitate almost any type of wood or material surface. Usually at least two layers of coating are applied, a paint roller and a good respirator are used for work. If you want to get not a glossy, but a matte floor surface, you can use wax or oil.