The floor in the bath - different options for arranging a quality foundation. How to make a floor in a bath - we comply with all building rules Installation of grooved floors in a bath

Installation of floors in the bath is one of the most critical stages of construction. In most cases, the floors are wooden or concrete-based. And a qualitative solution to the problem related to how to lay the floors in the bath will determine the quality of the reception of bath procedures and the durability of both the floor itself and the bath as a whole.

Let's find out how the floors in the bath can be equipped with their own hands.

Wooden floor

Wood flooring can be non-leaking and leaking. For each of them, the installation instructions are different.

Installation of non-leaking floors

The simplest floor design and the procedure is as follows:

• Floor beams are usually mounted during the laying of a log house, cutting them into the first row of beams or logs.. Usually they rest on the foundation if it is a strip foundation or masonry between the pillars in the case of a column foundation.
• If this has not been done, then the beams can be cut even after the construction of the walls and roof. Or make the floor in the bath rooms independent of the foundation and walls. It will not affect how to lay the floor in the bath.
  In this case, separate columns must be laid out under the floor beams. They are made in the same way as the foundation columns.

Attention: The top level of the posts should not be higher than the level of the foundation.
Yes, and below is undesirable, this will allow us to solve many problems in the future.

• Boards are solidly nailed to the floor beams from below, or bars of 50x50 mm are nailed in the lower part of the sides of the beams. A draft floor is laid on these bars.

• After that, a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the draft boards..
• One or two are placed on the vapor barrier. It can be mineral wool or basalt wool insulation.
• Then another layer of vapor barrier spreads.

• A grooved floorboard is laid on top of the beams.

If such floors are made for a steam room or washing room, then the floor surface should have a slight slope, about 2 cm per meter of distance along the floor.

This slope should be towards a wall or towards a special water receiver built into the floor. For a steam room, it is best to use hardwood, they are softer and do not emit harmful resins at high temperatures.

Speaking about how to lay the floor in a bathhouse (), such a slope is not necessary, and the material for these rooms can be any: both coniferous and deciduous.

Installation of leaky floors

Such floors are laid only in the steam room and washing room, that is, where water drainage is necessary. Before laying the floor in this type of bath, it is necessary to prepare the soil under the future flooring.

In order to mount a leaking floor, do the following:

• The ground inside the room is leveled, and a layer of sand is poured on it and compacted so that as a result this layer becomes approximately 10 cm.
• Then a layer of crushed stone is poured - 10 cm.
• A concrete screed is made from above, while creating a slope towards the water receiver. Water should be discharged either into a septic tank, or further from the bath into the ground, which should absorb water well.
• At the end of the pipe that drains water, it is necessary to mount a special lock that does not let odors into the bath.
• Boards or narrow slats are mounted on the beams, so that there is a gap of one to two centimeters between them.

Attention: Wood must be treated with special compounds to extend the life of the material.

bulk floors

Having considered the previous two methods, it becomes clear that there is free space for the floor beams. As a result, in winter it is quite cool in the lower part of the room, and good insulation is required.

But you can do otherwise, and when deciding how to lay the floors in the bath, you can avoid laying insulation or cold air in case of leaking floors.

It is done like this:

• Floor beams are not installed at all.
• A layer of sand, approximately 15-20 cm, is covered and rammed onto the ground.
• Either crushed stone or expanded clay is poured onto the sand, also with a layer of 15-20 cm, it is also leveled and rammed.

• A concrete screed is poured from above within 10 cm.

wooden floors

Wooden logs are laid on the screed, on which the tongue-and-groove floorboards are already mounted. And in the same way, if it is a steam room or a washing room, then a slope is made to drain the water. If this is a rest room or dressing room, then there is no need to tilt.

Ceramic tile floor

You can do it differently, you can put ceramic tiles on even concrete very well. Using tile adhesive and tiles, a very durable, strong and reliable floor can be installed.

Attention: A special, non-slippery tile should be used for the floor in the bath, in order to avoid falls.

In conditions of high temperatures, such as in a steam room. It makes sense to lay cork mats or a lattice of wooden bars on the floor.

Compared to wooden floors, concrete-based floors have the advantage of being less expensive and having a much longer service life. But concrete and tile floors cannot create an atmosphere of peace and comfort in the bath.

The situation in the bath with wooden floors, the same walls allows you to get a good rest, so before laying the floor in the bath, you should think carefully about what will be more useful, not cheaper.

Floor replacement

Nothing is eternal, and no matter how much we would like, but often a situation arises related to how to change the floor in the bath.

There may be several reasons:

• The old floor has fallen into disrepair.
• It does not perform the functions of water drainage.
• He just got bored.
• The floor is cold, slippery, etc.

And here, first of all, you need to look at what is available and what you want to receive. Most often, the old coating is completely removed and an analysis is made of what remains under it.

Depending on the diagnosis, either everything is removed, after which the floor is installed as new. Either cosmetic repairs are being made and a new floor covering is being laid.

It is possible to completely replace one type of floor with another. Then, too, everything old is removed and everything new is mounted.

Conclusion

The floor in the bath has the same important function as the walls and ceiling. And the temperature regime in the room largely depends on it and how comfortable it is to be in this room without shoes. Therefore, it is important to correctly, in compliance with all stages, install the floor elements and lay the floor covering.

Our portal can provide you with additional information on this topic, as well as on issues related to construction and repair.

After assembling the log cabin of the bath and installing doors and windows, you need to think about installing the flooring. How to make the floor in the bath in various ways, we will tell in this article. By following all the steps, you can complete the work without errors and with high quality.

Planning or choosing the type of flooring for the bath

Before installing the floor in the bath, you need to decide what it will be: wooden or screed. Several factors influence the choice:

1. The type of material from which the floor joists are made.
2. The material from which the bath is built.
3. What is the planned drainage system.
4. Purpose of the premises (steam room and washing room combined or separate, use dry steam or wet, etc.)
5. material side.

Wooden floor - features and purpose

The wooden floor in the baths is used in most cases. Such popularity is associated with the availability of material and the speed of installation (no need to take technical breaks in work). You can buy floorboards or logs already treated with an antiseptic and dried. And the laying process is simple, and even a beginner, after reading the step-by-step instructions, will be able to lay the floor. Of course, mistakes are made in any work, but if you watch the thematic video and read the article to the end, you can handle it. Flooring alone is difficult, so it is better to look for 1-2 helpers.

For a bath, there are several ways to lay floors, but the simplest:

• "cold" flowing;
• "warm" not leaking.

Let's consider each in more detail.

Cold floor - design features

Boards of "cold" coating are laid with a gap of 4-5 mm. It is necessary so that moisture does not accumulate in the baths, but flows into the underground. Since the floor of a similar design is cold all the time, it is recommended to use it only in the southern regions of the country or for a bath at a summer cottage.

The structure cannot be insulated, so it will not be comfortable to use the bath in cold weather. Of course, there is an option when the flooring is raised above the level of the pillow under the stove, and special ventilation is made. So the floor warms up during the firebox and dries quickly. We will talk in more detail about how to do this with your own hands in one of the following articles.

"Warm" floor - design features

The warm version is mounted from boards that are tightly adjacent to each other, which have a slight slope. The slope is mounted to a special drain, which, in turn, is built into the collector where all the moisture accumulates. From there, the water flows by gravity through inclined pipes, outside the bath. This design resembles a "pie". The upper boards are laid on the draft of the lower one, a heater is placed between them. It is hidden from moisture and steam is made into insulation.

The main advantages of this design:

1. moisture does not accumulate near the foundation;
2. the floor is additionally insulated, which means it will warm up;
3. because of the special drain system, the floorboards will last longer.

Concrete screed in the bath-features and purpose

Screeding floors in baths is a more time-consuming process that requires some skill and theoretical knowledge. A concrete screed for the bath floor can be made in several ways: pouring directly onto the ground, screed on the subfloor. It is easier to do the first method yourself.

Screed on the ground - features

A concrete screed is performed on previously removed soil and a sand cushion (this is shown in the photo). After drying, the coating has an unsightly appearance and a finish is needed. Of course, you can simply paint the floor with paint, but since the bath will be constantly heated to high temperatures, chemical compositions in the use of the bath are undesirable. The easiest way is to lay ceramic tiles or natural stone. But both options are expensive and labor intensive.

Recently, know-how “warm floor” has been used in concrete screed. It is infrared, water and cable. But laying in damp rooms requires special knowledge, therefore it is not recommended to do it yourself.

It is important when using a concrete screed in baths to properly waterproof and heat-insulate the floor. Insulation is made of polymeric material, such as PSB-S-35. The price of the material is from 70 rubles.

Installation of flooring in baths and saunas

Any of the options considered is suitable for a bath in a private house or cottage. And how to make the coating correctly, observing the basic rules and features of the technology, we will tell you in more detail.

Installation of a "cold" leaking floor

As lags for a leaking floor, you can use metal or wooden sticks of rectangular or rounded section. You need to choose depending on the material from which the log house was built. So, for a bath from a bar, it is better to use a tree with a cross section of at least 100 mm.

Before laying, the logs must be treated with antiseptics and impregnations. Used engine oil is used as an economy. Antiseptics take any, but it is better to direct appointment "for baths."

Wood before laying is dried to a moisture content of less than 12-10% or purchased ready-made, kiln-dried.

Laying the base under the floor

The installation of the log must be carried out parallel to the wall, which has a shorter length. To stiffen, columns of reinforced concrete are poured under them, the distance between them should not be more than 1 m. Spread out in the following steps:

• at the installation sites, the top layer of soil is removed and a pillow of crushed stone and sand (10-15 cm) and reinforced mesh is poured;
• columns of red brick are laid out or pieces of reinforced concrete slab are laid;
• the structure is waterproofed with bituminous mastic.

If the foundation for the bath was columnar, then the level of the log should be parallel and equal in level to the embedded log. With tape - the upper part of the foundation.

On top of the pillars, waterproofing is laid in 2 layers and logs are mounted. They need to be laid leaving a distance from the main walls of at least 4-5 cm, on all sides, these gaps are needed for ventilation.

Underground drain installation

It is necessary to implement a system that will quickly remove excess water and prevent it from accumulating near the foundation. To do this, you need to study the soil, since the design will depend on the absorption of moisture:

• With soil that is well absorbed by moisture, the top layer is removed around the entire perimeter of the bath and a cushion of crushed stone with a thickness of at least 250 mm is poured. It is used as a filter. Moisture will pass through the filter and be absorbed into the soil. This is the easiest way.
• With poorly absorbent soil, a slope of 10 ° is made towards a specially prepared drain (a pit at least 30–40 cm deep, in which a PVC drain pipe with a diameter of 15 cm or more, covered with crushed stone, is laid). In order for the water to drain more evenly, the soil can be covered with clay and compacted.

Laying floor boards

Floor boards can be used even without edged ones, the main thing is to level and trim them. Laying starts from the wall, stepping back 2 cm. Laying is perpendicular to the lags.

Boards can be fastened to the joists with screws or nails at an angle of 45 °. To make the gaps between the boards the same, use pieces of plywood 3-5 mm thick.

Installation of a "warm" non-leaking floor

Lags under the structure are laid in exactly the same way as in the first case. To organize the slope of the floor, you need to make cuts of 2-4 mm in each log, except for those located near the walls.

Installation of the drain system

A pit 400x400 mm and a depth of 300 mm is used as a water intake (the design diagram is in the photo above). You need to dig it between two supports. For waterproofing, a “clay castle” is made in the water collector or the walls are poured with concrete and coated with bitumen.

At the bottom, stepping back 2 cm, a drain pipe is mounted, which must be laid at an angle. For this, a PVC pipe with a cross section of at least 15 cm is suitable.

Laying floor boards

Floor installation begins with a rough bottom layer. For its fastening, 50x50 mm bars are attached to the beams on both sides along the entire length. Draft boards are laid on these bars, you can use any remaining after construction, even a small round timber. At least 60 mm must be retreated from the top of the beam, it depends on the thickness of the proposed insulation, it should not overlap the upper part of the log.

Waterproofing is spread on top of the subfloor. it must be overlapped, fasten the joints with bituminous mastic or adhesive tape (depending on the type of waterproofing). A heater is laid on top of the waterproofing (mineral wool, ecowool, expanded clay, sawdust with PVA, etc.). The insulation must be protected by covering it with a vapor barrier layer.

The vapor barrier is laid with an overlap of 15 cm, attached to the logs with a construction stapler.

A finishing board from the board is mounted on top. it is better to use tongue and groove with a tongue and groove. So water cannot get between the boards. It is better to mount boards by putting each subsequent one on a spike, so there is less chance of spoiling the lock connection. A pipe is mounted in an inclined drain, the end of which will go into the water collector.

It is important to leave a ventilated gap of at least 10 - 15 mm between the main coating and the insulation, where an additional exhaust pipe is led out.

As floorboards for a bath, it is better to use products that are resistant to water, such as larch, aspen. Otherwise, the floor will quickly rot, which will never happen with a concrete screed.

Installation of a concrete screed - features of installation in baths

The top layer of soil is removed along the entire inner perimeter, at least 30-40 cm. The soil is rammed. 100 mm of coarse-grained sand is laid on top. Then a layer of crushed stone 200 mm and two layers of roofing material. At the same time, it is important to leave space for future acceptance before filling the sand.

The next step is to dig out a place for acceptance, its walls must be concreted to a thickness of at least 50 mm. From above it is covered with rubble and a drain pipe is removed. Only after that you can proceed to the screed.

Filling the screed on the floor of the bath

The installation of the screed is carried out in the following steps:

1. The first layer is poured with concrete to a height of 5 - 6 cm, it is allowed to dry (but not completely dry);
2. A layer of thermal insulation PSB-S-35 is spread out (you can take any thickness, standard 5 and 10 cm);
3. To give rigidity, a reinforced mesh is laid;
4. The final layer of concrete is poured in 6 - 9 cm. To give hardness, it is necessary to pour the final layer, at an angle of 10 -15 °, towards the drain, where the pipe is mounted.

From above, a concrete screed is decorated with tiles, there are many of them in construction centers, the price starts from 210 rubles / m2. You can think of your own design and choose a cover for it. All depending on the size of the wallet and imagination.

How to make the floor in the bath with your own hands photo and video

How to make a floor in a bath, detailed instructions and a description of all work with photos and videos, features of various wood structures and concrete screed

Floor in the bath: 3 materials and DIY work

Floors deserve special attention in the process of arranging a bath. There are a lot of pleasures outside the city: fishing, giving, hiking with tents and looking for mushrooms with berries, and, of course, a bath. When building a bath, it is important to take into account its huge difference from, for example, a country house and other premises. The bath needs a large margin of safety and the ability to remove moisture. From a large steam exposure, not only the walls, but also the floor of the bath can rot and become unusable, thereby creating a danger to others. Therefore, it is necessary to consider many options for the correct construction of the floor, which will not rot, but provide water drainage. Before you make the floor in the bath with your own hands, it is better to study the step-by-step guide in order to avoid wrong actions and costly consequences.

What is better to make the floor in the bath

The main and most important requirement that applies to the floor of the bath is warmth. The floor must be made very warm, because after steam procedures, and on time, no one likes to step on a cold floor. A warm floor will not cause any discomfort, therefore, the choice of material is treated with great demands, it should easily conduct heat. Concrete flooring is best covered with decking, other materials also have their own characteristics.

Laying floors is the most important stage in the construction of any building.

What materials do the floor in the bath:

1. Wood flooring. Pine, fir, spruce or larch are selected. Especially note the high quality of coniferous trees. Because of the resin, they last longer than others. Softwood floors are non-slip, have healing properties and a great smell.
2. Ceramic floor. This floor, unlike wooden boards, lasts a long time and does not rot. But it gets very hot. In order not to get hit by heat, wooden grates are placed on the tile, which are easily removed and dried. They prefer to lay tiled floors in the house, but they are also suitable for a bath. The scheme of their laying is simple, and if the heat comes from the stove, then you can successfully beat the interior. This is a very practical item.
3. Concrete floors. To lay a concrete floor correctly, you need to be very careful. It is not recommended to lay a concrete floor in an ordinary bath room, where, for example, it is customary to drink tea.

But in the steam room, it can be quite acceptable. The construction of a concrete floor begins after compaction of the floor with crushed stone and sand. Warming comes from thermal insulation with felt or expanded clay. Keep a slope to collect water and waste it. The floorboard is interchangeable and can be easily removed and redone. Concrete pavement will be more difficult to remove and correct errors. The design of concrete floors should have a small opening for ventilation.

This will protect the floor from rotting, and the bath from a terrible smell. For a warmer floor, concrete is laid in several layers.

The floors in the bath are distinguished by the place of their use. In the steam room, shower and other rooms. In the shower, it is more common to make a floor of tiles with water insulation. It is not profitable to make wood floors in the shower room, because high humidity will quickly ruin this material. The floors in the sauna or steam room are more suitable for wood and tiles, while in other dryer rooms you can also lay a laminate, the main thing is that the room is not very wet. Therefore, what floors are needed for the room are selected depending on its purpose.

Concrete floor in a wooden bath and its advantages

The floor in the bath practically does not heat up above 35 degrees. Therefore, it is not recommended to stand on the concrete floor after the steam room, you can get a heat stroke. That is why wooden gratings are laid on the concrete floor. They are low maintenance and easy to clean, and safety is paramount.

The most important thing is that your floor must be warm, because when using water procedures, I think you will not like to step barefoot on a cold floor

What are the advantages of a concrete floor:

• Absolute resistance to damp air and sudden changes in temperature;
• Weakly susceptible to decay;
• Moisture does not destroy concrete;
• Easy care;
• Concrete can be beautifully beaten in the interior.

Making a concrete floor in a wooden bath is quite simple. Concrete floors are placed on logs on top of the ground. Logs are best made from wood. A beam is fixed to the log, making a kind of strip. Having treated the logs and other wooden materials with an antiseptic, they lay a subfloor (use a board). A hole is made in this floor for draining water. They trim the subfloor with waterproofing, then with insulation, then again with waterproofing. A mesh of reinforcement is laid on top of it, a slope is set towards the drain and the concrete screed is poured with concrete, observing the angle of inclination. For a wooden bath, more insulation is needed, so in this case there are two.

The usual floor in the bath from the boards: what kind of wood is most suitable

Making wooden floors in the bath, you can quite successfully create the atmosphere of a village house for steam treatments and meeting friends over a cup of tea after a good and healing effect of a broom in the steam room. The smell of the bathhouse, the smell of wood and leaves, the floors with woody ornaments and their naturalness have a particularly positive effect on others.

In the bath, it is best to make a floor from tree species such as fir, pine, larch or spruce

1. Pine breeds. Very easy to handle and inexpensive. Deformation is excluded with proper drying of the tree. But there is a drawback: pine boards rot quickly if they are exposed to moisture. Accordingly, fungi and other organisms develop at a breakneck pace. Therefore, pine is preferred to be used for lag in the construction of bath floors.
2. Aspen and linden. They are inexpensive, but darken after exposure to temperature. The medicinal properties have been famous for many years, and the ornament of this type of wood creates a bathing atmosphere. Needs very frequent processing.
3. Cedar tree. Durable wood. In appearance, it has a great advantage over other types of wood. Virtually no decay. Expensive.

Also, the floors in the bath are made of larch, oak and other types of wood. The criterion for choosing boards for the floor in the bath depends not only on finances. Here it is important to take into account the features of the room where the floor is laid. It is necessary to take into account water resistance, density and the possibility of decay.

How to make a floor in a bath: the specifics of wood material

When installing a wooden floor, you need to consider not only the design. Not always a beautiful interior means quality material. Therefore, the wooden floor in the bath can last a long time, if certain nuances are observed.

Bath floor design and implementation is critical

Features of the wooden floor in the bath:

1. Compliance with the rules of acclimatization. The boards must “get used” to the temperature and humidity of the room where they will be installed. Therefore, they are left there for a couple of days.
2. You need to process the boards with an antiseptic. This will eliminate the formation of fungus and rotting. Processing must be subjected to all elements of the floor made of wood, even logs.
3. Compliance with floor installation rules. The technological difference between a leaky and non-leaking floor has long been known. The floor is laid in the bath in compliance with the laying scheme. It is important to remember to observe the angle of inclination for a non-leaking floor or gaps for a leaking one.

If you treat things neatly and carefully, take care of their appearance in a timely manner and follow safety rules, then they can serve a great and long service, especially if it is such a pleasant thing as a bath.

Warm floor in the bath from the stove: water heating scheme

The floors in the bath can be heated not only with the help of a heater. They can be heated with a stove.

Do not rush to buy an electric floor heating system if you have a stove in this facility. You can make a water heated floor

Scheme of heating floors in a bath using a stove:

• The first draft screed is placed to prevent distortion and distortion;
• The second layer is laid with a waterproofing sheet, which helps to eliminate the possibility of condensation;
• In the third stage, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the material for heat insulation;
• A substrate is installed for the desired reflection of heat;
• The location of the heating main itself;

Filling everything with a screed with a slight inclination of the surface and laying the coating for a perfect interior.

Choosing the floor for the bath, installing it, following all the installation rules and taking care of the material, the consumer not only acquires an additional corner in the fresh air, but also new leisure. A large number of gatherings with loved ones can be in such a bath, with a warm floor.

Do-it-yourself floor design for a bath (interior photo)

The floor in the bath: how to do it yourself, a step-by-step guide, what is better, the floor from the stove, the scheme of the concrete

The floor in the bath will help direct the bath procedures in the right direction. But how to choose the most rational material for the floor and what is more reliable: concrete or wood.

Floor in the bath - different options for arranging a quality base

Arrangement of the floor in a private steam room should be given special attention. The level of comfort during use and the functionality of the bath itself depend on how competently its design is thought out and implemented.

Materials for arranging floors in the steam room - what to use?

The floor base in the bath performs several important functions at once. It not only ensures the safety of human movement during water procedures, but is also part of the water removal system. A properly constructed floor in the bath does not wear out ahead of time, does not rot due to high humidity, and effectively retains heat in the room. In private steam rooms, the foundations we are interested in are most often made of wood and concrete. Brick coatings are used much less frequently. They are expensive and quite difficult to arrange with your own hands.

If you want to build a capital stone or brick sauna room with a rest room, a separate steam room, a washing department, a dressing room and use it all year round, experts advise opting for a concrete base. It must be equipped with a well-thought-out water drainage system and effective waterproofing. But for small baths, operated exclusively in the summer, simpler wooden floors are suitable. They are built much faster and easier, are environmentally friendly, have a very presentable appearance.

Wooden floors in the bath are short-lived

Wooden bases have been used for a very long time. They create special comfort in the steam room, saturate the room with pleasant natural aromas, make each bath procedure a small holiday for the true Russian soul. True, there are many disadvantages of wooden floors. The durability of such structures leaves much to be desired. No matter how hard you try to protect wood from the harmful effects of water, it will quickly lose its initial performance characteristics. Therefore, be prepared for the fact that after a while you will have to re-lay the wooden floors in the steam room.

Concrete structures are much more preferable in terms of durability. They are not afraid of water and steam, temperature changes.

Concrete products withstand even the most difficult operating conditions. On average, such foundations are used for 40–45 years without additional repairs. We immediately note the obvious disadvantages of concrete coatings. They are very cold (for this reason, a suitable finishing material, for example, a tile, is laid on top of them), time-consuming to install with your own hands, they require a serious investment of time and financial resources.

Concrete foundation - we build for centuries!

The floor for a bath made of concrete, in fact, is an ordinary screed. It is made from a solution in which there is sand, cement and some special fillers (crushed stone, natural marble chips, gravel and others). We advise you not to bother with mixing the required ingredients to obtain a concrete composition, but immediately purchase the finished mixture at the nearest construction store. Factory sand-cement compositions in dry form are completely ready for use. They only need to be diluted with ordinary water in the recommended volume, thoroughly mixed with a perforator with a nozzle, and then used for its intended purpose.

If the screed will serve as a finishing floor covering, or a simple board flooring will be mounted on it, there is no need to add any special components to the purchased mixture. For cases when it is planned to lay tiles on top of the concrete pavement, it is advisable to add a little anhydrite with gypsum to the cement-sand composition. It is even easier to buy a self-levelling compound designed specifically for such cases.

The concrete base for the bath can be mounted on logs or directly on the ground. The first stage of work is the arrangement of an elementary system for removing water. It consists of an intermediate tank (this role is usually played by a small hole 0.4x0.4x0.3 m dug in the ground) and two pipes. The walls and bottom of the pit should be concreted and a tubular product with a cross section of 20 cm should be brought to it. Its second end is led into an autonomous septic tank at the site or into the gutter. We start another pipe from the pit into the bathhouse. It is desirable to provide this part of the system with a valve that prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors into the steam room.

Next, prepare the platform for the screed. We remove the top layer of soil, pour sand into the resulting pit, ram it, pour brick or gravel on top. We should get a layer of about 0.25 m. Add 10 cm of crushed stone on top. Once again we ram the whole cake and fill it with a sand-cement mixture (about 5-6 cm thick). An important nuance! The concrete layer must have a slight slope towards the reservoir pit.

When the solution hardens, lay mineral wool or polystyrene on it (you can pour a layer of expanded clay, perlite). These materials play the role of an effective insulation. Under the foam and cotton wool, we must put waterproofing (it is most reasonable to use roofing material). We cover the thermal insulation with the same material. Then we mount a metal mesh (wire). It makes it possible to perform high-quality reinforcement.

Concrete can also be used as a floor finish

Now you can pour the main screed. We serve the solution from the far corner and gradually approach the exit from the steam room. When pouring, the composition is necessarily leveled (you need to work with an assistant). This operation is performed with a trowel. And to tighten the concrete in a circular motion, we use the rule. After 2-3 days, the screed will harden. It can be laid flooring from boards or tiles. We mount the trim with a two-centimeter slope towards the drain. If the concrete is planned to be used as a finishing coating (you can do so), just carefully level and grind its surface. But remember that such a floor in a private bath will be cold. In winter, it is problematic to use a steam room with it.

Leaking wood floor - acceptable quality with minimal labor

You can make a floor in a wooden bath using two technologies. The first involves the construction of leaking foundations, the second - non-leaking. Advice. If you have little experience in construction work, it is better to build leaking floors. They are made in the form of flooring from boards, between which gaps are specially left. Through them, the used water goes into the ground. Insulation of such structures is not carried out, the sewer system is not being built. Instead of the latter, a simple drainage pit is used. They dig it under the bath.

You can make a floor in a bath of this type according to the following algorithm:

1. 1. We level a piece of land, fill it with a layer of gravel, which should be well compacted.
2. 2. We prepare wooden logs (we cut them to the required dimensions, apply an antiseptic composition) and support pillars for them.
3. 3. We mount the processed logs on the supports, keeping the distance between the individual elements at the level of 0.5 m.
4. 4. Lay the boardwalk. We leave gaps of 2-3 mm between the wall of the bath, the floor and the boards to be mounted.

Leaking bases imply gaps between boards

It is not necessary to fix the flooring elements to the lags. The described coating is recommended to be regularly removed and taken out under the sun to dry. If necessary, at any time it is possible to replace rotten boards. The service life of the described floor structure is 4–6 years. Then you have to build a new one. Such leaking floors are best used in the country, where you visit from time to time and rarely use the steam room.

There is another way to arrange simple boardwalks. It is less difficult to implement. After preparing the plot of land, bars-beams with a section of 10x10 to 15x15 cm should be placed around the perimeter of the foundation. Be sure to apply an antiseptic on them! We install logs on the beams, fix them, and on top we mount the flooring from the boards.

Leaking floors of both types can be constructed from hardwood and softwood. It is not recommended to lay oak boards. They become very slippery when wet. It is better to opt for products made of pine, linden or larch. The last option is considered the most optimal. One more nuance. The flooring is made of planed edged boards 4-5 cm thick. Thinner products in high humidity conditions will not last long.

Non-leaking wood floor - environmentally friendly and quite reliable

Now let's try to properly make a non-leaking base. It will take more time to build such a structure. But the result of the work will be of better quality. Leak-proof wooden floors are suitable for year-round steam rooms. The design of such bases requires the arrangement of a rough intermediate coating and the mandatory installation of a heat-insulating layer. Due to this, the service life of such structures reaches 10–12 years.

We build a non-leaking floor in the bath according to the following step-by-step guide:

1. 1. We make a hole-reservoir, we lay pipes for drains by analogy with the arrangement of drainage for concrete pavements.
2. 2. We prepare the site. We remove the layer of earth, fill the cleaned area with sand and gravel. Each layer of material is rammed. If desired, pour a concrete screed (5–6 cm). This part of the operation is optional. If you want to save time and money, skip it.
3. 3. We cover the floor base with a waterproofing layer. The best protector from moisture in this case will be roofing material.
4. 4. We perform insulation using polystyrene foam or expanded clay. Mineral wool is not used for thermal insulation of non-leaking bases.
5. 5. We install logs with a step of 0.5 m on pre-mounted beams. For the manufacture of the latter, you need to use bars 10x20 cm. These supports, as you remember, are fastened along the perimeter of the foundation.

Then we mount the intermediate base. We fix the draft floor from the bottom of the beams. We cover it with an additional heat-insulating layer (mounted on roofing material). On top of the insulation we lay another layer of waterproofing material. The last stage of work is the installation of the finishing floor. We install it with a slope, we lay the boards close to each other. The finish coating is attached to the lags with nails or self-tapping screws.

We take boards for non-leaking floors, tongue-and-groove, 3-5 cm thick. We make logs from wooden blocks with dimensions of 5x7 cm. Pay attention! The lower edge of the floor base made of wood must rise 10–20 cm above the level of the basement (its upper edge) of the bath. We hope that our instructions will help you build a truly reliable floor in your steam room.

How to make the floor in the bath with your own hands: a step by step guide

Floor in the bath - different options for arranging a quality base The arrangement of the floor in a private steam room should be given special attention. How competently it will be thought out and implemented

How to make the right floor in the bath with your own hands: instructions

The floor in the bath differs in its structure only in the steam room and washing room. The rest of the baths are operated in the usual humidity regime. In the article, we will consider in detail the arrangement of floors in the steam room and talk about how to lay them with your own hands.

The choice of the design of the floor of the steam room and washing

The usual solution would be wooden floors. Their main advantage is the health benefits of wood, environmental friendliness and practicality. Despite the relatively short service life of wooden floors in a steam room, they are not so difficult to change, and the total cost will still be lower than the arrangement of a concrete floor.

In the steam room and the washing room, a fair amount of water constantly falls on the floor, which should be diverted into a pit, drainage system, or simply into the ground under the bath. In a constructive way, to solve this problem, wooden floors are divided into leaking and non-leaking.

The leaking floor provides a gap between the boards. Water seeps freely into the underfloor. Then it is absorbed into the soil, if its filtering capacity allows it, or is discharged into a pit, for which a clay castle or concrete base is formed with a slope in one direction.

The second option is a non-leaking floor in the wet rooms of the bath. Such a floor is made with a non-removable coating and is replaced only at the end of its service life. A slope for collecting and draining water is provided here along the surface of the floor covering towards the tray or funnel.

A floor with a removable coating can and even needs to be disassembled and dried regularly until the bath is in use. Fixed floors, due to susceptibility to decay at high humidity, change completely about once every 7–8 years.

A concrete base under a leaking wooden floor in a bath significantly increases the durability of the structure, and also affects comfort - even after many years there will be no musty smell from under the floor. However, the arrangement of a concrete base significantly increases the cost of arranging a bath, so if the parent soil under the building has a high drainage capacity, then it is easier to get by with preparing a filter layer.

Materials and tools

To cover the floor in the steam room and washing room, wooden elements from deciduous (linden, aspen) and coniferous (pine, larch, cedar) wood species are used. All wooden floor structures must be treated with antiseptics.

For flooring you will need:

• wooden beam for logs 50 (100) x100 mm;
• floor board 35 mm thick;
• cement M300, M400;
• sand of medium fraction;
• expanded clay for the heat-insulating layer;
• ordinary clay brick for posts under logs;
• waterproofing (roofing material).

It is important to choose the right protective wood impregnation. It should be suitable for baths due to high temperature and humidity. The easiest way to process wood is to impregnate with sunflower oil in two passes.

Tool

The floors in the steam room are arranged using a tool for laying a concrete base on the ground and a wooden covering of the bath floor.

Tools for working with concrete. 1. Rake-stroke. 2. Cement grater. 3. Trowel. 4. Ironer. 5. Corner ironer. 6. Rule. 7. Bubble level. 8. Pendulum profile

Woodworking tools. 1. Construction corner. 2. Staple. 3. Hammer. 4. Electric planer. 5. Clamps. 6. Hacksaw for wood. 7. Bubble level. 8. Screwdriver. 9. Drill. 10. Circular saw machine

Leaking floor from individual boards with chamfers

To prepare the soil base for the floor structure, it is imperative to remove the fertile layer, no matter how thick it is.

Leaking floor over concrete base. 1. Ground. 2. Expanded clay concrete. 3. Cement screed. 4. Gutter. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

Flowing floor on the ground with filtering capacity. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Gravel. 4. The foundation of the supporting column. 5. Brick pillar. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

It is important at this stage to decide how and where the water will be drained outside the building. For this, a tray (200x150h mm) is provided in the concrete base, into which water flows. The bottom of the tray is made with a slope towards the drain pit (30x30x25h). It is better to locate the pit closer to the place of the external water collector. From the pit, water flows through the drain pipe to the sump.

The slope of the surface for water runoff is 2-3 cm per meter in the direction of the tray. It is created either by leveling the ground under the floor, or by filling (sand and gravel) under the concrete base. The overall level of the floor in the steam room and washing room is 30 mm lower than in adjacent rooms with normal humidity.

A sand and gravel cushion 10–15 cm thick is laid on the compacted soil. It is necessary to fill and compact the sand in layers of no more than 5 cm, wetting it with water. Next, a heat-insulating layer of expanded clay concrete is laid. The approximate consumption of raw materials per 1 m 3 of concrete is:

It is best to prepare a concrete solution in a concrete mixer or order

It is also possible to use another light filler (shungizite, perlite, expanded vermiculite, crushed stone of porous rocks, etc.). The thickness of the expanded clay concrete layer can be taken as 150 mm. Concrete is laid in strips no more than 2.5 m wide on a base moistened with water. To limit the strips, rails are installed, they also serve as beacons for determining the thickness of the layer. The thicker the insulation layer, the warmer the floor.

Be sure to observe the slope towards the gutter or funnel to collect and drain water

A cement-sand screed 40 mm thick is laid on the layer of expanded clay concrete. The composition of the mortar (M100) cement / sand: one to three. Before the mortar sets, it is necessary to iron the surface with cement milk. Cement is mixed with water to the state of liquid sour cream. The surface is covered with an even thin layer of the mixture. This is done to increase the water resistance of the concrete base.

Under the logs, brick columns are installed from solid clay ordinary bricks (250x250 mm) on a cement-sand mortar. The distance between the posts is 0.8–1.0 m in the center. 2 layers of roofing material are laid on their surface. Next, the lags are laid. The floorboards of the leaking floor have chamfers along the edges for water drainage. The gap between the boards is 5-6 mm.

Important! Do not use sand-lime bricks, hollow stones, silicate blocks in damp and wet rooms.

Such a floor is made removable in order to be able to dry the floorboard to increase its service life. The boards can move when walking on them, they are often caught with nails, landing nests up to 5 mm deep are prepared under them in the logs, or spacers are stuffed on the boards along the edges.

Leaking floor made of removable panels

The floor covering of the steam room and soap room can be made from removable wooden shields. The boards of the shield are laid with a gap on the transverse bars 50x50 mm. The size of the shields is taken for reasons of ease of removal and drying.

The floor structure is the same: compacted soil, compacted sand and gravel mixture, insulation - expanded clay concrete 150 mm thick. Ceramic floor tiles are laid on a cement-sand mortar with a thickness of 10-15 mm. The floor has a slope that is directed towards the drain tray. Removable shields are installed on the tile so that the lower bars are located along the water drain.

The sequence of works of a non-leaking floor

A non-leaking wooden floor involves a continuous flooring of tongue-and-groove boards along the logs. First determine the location of the support columns. They are placed at a distance of 0.8–1.0 m from each other, measuring the distances in the centers. A concrete pad 100 mm thick and 70 mm wider than the size of the post is prepared for each post.

Solid non-leaking floor over the ground. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk heat-insulating material. 4. The foundation of the supporting column. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

A solid, non-leaking floor must be laid with a slope. The gutter can be placed in one of the logs located close to the wall. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk heat-insulating material. 4. Brick column on a concrete base. 5. Gutter. 6. Floor board

Supports for logs are made of concrete or ordinary clay bricks on a cement-sand mortar. The size of the columns is 250x250 mm. The height of the supports must correspond to the upper edge of the embedded beam (columnar foundation), or the top of the strip foundation.

The direction of laying the log should be perpendicular to the direction of water flow. Wooden elements are necessarily isolated from concrete or brick with two layers of waterproofing (roofing material). Expanded clay bedding 15 cm thick is made on the compacted soil.

An uninsulated floor option is shown in the figure. In this case, the boards are supported on one side by a wall lag, on the other - by a lag-gutter. The tray is covered from above with a wooden ladder.

The insulated floor involves logs with cranial bars to which the black floor is attached. Next, a vapor barrier is laid (membrane, polyethylene, polypropylene films), a layer of heat insulator (mineral wool board, polystyrene) is laid on it. Rolled waterproofing (roofing material) is laid on the heat-insulating layer.

Insulated non-leaking floor. 1. Soil, sand cushion and bulk insulation. 2. Brick pillar. 3. Logs and rough wooden floor. 4. Insulation. 5. Logs and finished floor laid with a slope towards the gutter. 6. Gutter. 7. A vapor-permeable membrane is laid on top of the subfloor, waterproofing is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer

There must be a gap of at least 3 cm between the clean floor and the waterproofing. The lag size in this case is 100x170 mm. Skull bar - 40x40 mm. For logs, only a solid beam must be used.

Grooved boards are laid along the lags. Boards are sewn with nails or self-tapping screws to the logs through the tongue. This method of rallying boards is called "parquet". Its advantage is the absence of hats on the surface of the board.

Each board is attached to all lags. They should fit snugly against each other. The gap between the boards should not exceed 1 mm. For rallying the boards, staples or clamps are used. Nails for fastening are used 2–2.5 times longer than the thickness of the boards. The end of the plank floor does not reach the wall by 10–20 mm. In the future, the gap is covered with a plinth.

Drainage of water from the floor surface occurs due to the slope of the floor in two directions. A hole is made at the drain point and a siphon is installed. The slope of the floor can be done by adjusting the height of the log.

How to make the right floor in the bath with your own hands: instructions

The floor in the bath differs in its structure only in the steam room and washing room. The rest of the baths are operated in the usual humidity regime. In the article, we will consider in detail the arrangement of floors in the steam room and talk about

The floor in the bath from the boards is considered a classic option for arranging a Russian bath. Despite wood's tendency to rot when exposed to moisture, the material's other benefits outweigh the negatives, and wood flooring remains the most common building technology. All the shortcomings of a tree can be eliminated if the right approach to the choice of wood species is ensured and the basic principles of protecting it from aggressive influences are observed.

Problem Features

As you know, the Russian bath consists of several typical rooms: a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room, a relaxation room, which have their own specific conditions. The most aggressive environment is present in the steam room. It provides high humidity (up to 60-65%) with the help of water vapor heated to a temperature of 55-70 degrees. Below, at the floor level, the temperature drops slightly (up to 45-50 degrees), but heated water and steam condensate appear. To this should be added mechanical loads when moving participants in the bathing procedure.

In the washing room, the main impact on the wooden floor is associated with pouring water (shower or pouring from containers), often mixed with detergents (soap, shampoo, etc.). In addition, puffs of steam can penetrate from the steam room. In the dressing room, problems are usually associated with the fire chamber of the bath stove located here, in the zone of which the material is heated. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the temperature difference and the dirt brought in with the shoes. The most favorable conditions are provided in the rest room, where comfort and aesthetics come first.

The above analysis of bathing conditions is important for developing an approach to the choice of flooring material. The fact is that different types of wood have different properties, and therefore the question of which board to make the floor in the bath from has its own characteristics. When choosing a material, not only the dimensions that provide mechanical strength are important, but also the characteristics of the wood itself.

The choice of wood species

What board is better for the floor in the bath?

On a note! When choosing a type of wood, the following main properties are taken into account: moisture resistance or the degree of hygroscopicity, which is largely determined by the density of the structure; mechanical strength; tendency to deformation upon drying; the presence of harmful resins.

The latter characteristic is especially important in the steam room, where, under the influence of superheated steam at a sufficiently high temperature, resinous substances are released from the wood and inhaled by a person. In this regard, some coniferous woods containing a large amount of resins pose a danger to the body.

What board to use for the floor in the bath? The most commonly used tree species are:

1. Larch. Belongs to coniferous breed and possesses the high durability and density. The essential oils contained in wood can have a healing effect, especially for disorders of the cardiovascular or immune system. The structure contains a natural antiseptic, which ensures the fight against microorganisms that cause decay. Resinous substances are actively released at first, but later they stop evaporating. One of the main disadvantages is the high cost of the material.

2. Oak. This breed has a unique strength, resistance to high temperatures and moisture, but it is used, as a rule, in the form of a finishing material. Oak floorboards are not widely used due to their increased specific gravity, difficulty in processing, and a tendency to crack when exposed to temperature changes.

3. Cedar. It has a peculiar fibrous structure, which provides an important property: very low deformation and no cracking. The decay of such wood is practically absent, and the appearance is admirable. The advantages include increased heat capacity, which ensures long-term preservation of heat. Only the high cost limits the use of cedar boards.

4. Pine. Main positive properties: low cost, ease of processing. Proper drying of wood eliminates the risk of cracking and deformation. The main disadvantage: low resistance to decay. Fungi and various microorganisms actively develop in pine products. When deciding which board to lay the floor in the bath, pine floorboards are most often rejected. At the same time, pine is widely used as a log, intermediate and supporting elements of a wooden floor.

5. Linden. The classical Russian bath was always based on this type of wood. It has healing properties, and the texture creates a kind of decoration. As a floor board, its use is limited by such negative aspects as low heat capacity (rather cold surface) and a high tendency to rot, which requires careful processing.

6. Aspen. It is in many ways similar to linden. It has a relatively low cost and is easy to process. The main disadvantage: it starts to darken when exposed to high temperatures.

Summarizing the above arguments in favor of one or another type of wood, it should be noted that the question of which boards are needed for the floor in the bath is decided by financial possibilities and in which bath room the flooring is being built.

On a note! Larch looks the most attractive, but when saving money, pine boards are still more often used.

What is taken into account when preparing the material

In addition to the choice of wood species, other characteristics also play an important role. First of all, it is necessary to take into account quality indicators:

1. Grooved board. For the floor in the bath, a regular or tongue-and-groove board can be used. The difference lies in the formation of the butt. In the tongue-and-groove version, a longitudinal spike is formed on one side, and a corresponding groove on the other. As a result of the use of such products, a locking connection is provided, which makes it possible to tightly fit and arrange a non-leaking floor covering. Naturally, a profiled board has a higher cost, but the quality of the floor is also significantly improved.
2. Humidity. A very important parameter for any wood is the presence of residual moisture in the structure of the material. For the floor it is necessary to use only well-dried goods, i.e. with minimal moisture. Wet wood will warp when it dries, causing uneven surfaces. The optimal humidity value is considered to be within 7-9%, at least not more than 12-13%.
3. Dimensions. The thickness of the sauna floor board ensures its mechanical strength. In principle, it essentially depends on the properties of the wood, i.e. from the type of tree. So, when using an oak board, a thickness of 20-25 mm is sufficient, to ensure the same strength, a pine board with a thickness of 40-45 mm is required. A typical tongue and groove board is offered in thicknesses ranging from 27-37 mm. The choice of this parameter is due to real loads, taking into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

On a note! The width of the board also affects the reliability of the flooring and the likelihood of deformation. The narrower it is, the less the risk of its curvature in cross section.

The most commonly used board is 10 cm wide. In the case of using well-dried material, you can safely choose a width of about 17-20 cm.

Specific Features

The quality of the floor plank in the bath and its reliability depend on the following nuances:

1. Carrying out acclimatization. If we make the floor in the bath from boards, regardless of the type of wood, it is recommended that the material be allowed to acclimatize in the conditions where it will be located. To do this, the boards should be brought into the bath room at normal humidity and temperature and left for 3-5 days.
2. Way of fastening a board covering. It is customary to fasten ordinary boards to the lags with nails or self-tapping screws at a right angle. The caps of the fasteners must be recessed into the tree. The tongue-and-groove board can be fastened along the spike, which makes it possible to remove the cap from the surface. Wide boards (more than 14-15 cm) will additionally have to be fixed in the middle.
3. Treatment. Any wood, even larch or oak, requires impregnation with a special antiseptic to exclude the vital activity of fungi and other microorganisms that cause decay. All wooden parts are impregnated - both internal (logs, supports, lathing) and boards of the finishing floor. At the same time, modern compositions may include additives that change the tint of wood for a decorating purpose.

Technological features

Bath floor: which boards to use is only the first question. The next task is to choose its design. In practice, 2 options are used:

1. flowing variety. In it, the boards are laid with a gap through which a free flow of water from the floor surface is ensured. Such a lattice system is considered traditional for a Russian bath. The drain in this design is produced directly into the ground under the bath or is collected underground by a drainage system with subsequent removal to special collections outside the building.
2. Leak-proof design. In this case, the boards fit snugly together, and waterproofing is additionally provided to prevent water from seeping through the flooring. For such a system, tongue-and-groove boards are most suitable. Water is drained through special drain holes, and the floor itself is made with a slope in the direction of these holes.

Thus, the question of how to lay the floor in the bath from the boards is decided taking into account the choice of design. In other words, you can install boards with a gap of 2-5 mm or fit closely, sealing the joints.

Structurally, both options differ precisely in the way the boards are placed. The very structure of the wooden floor is similar. Its installation is carried out in the following order:

1. Soil leveling and compaction. Backfilling of a cushion of sand and gravel with a compaction 10-12 cm thick.
2. Roofing material waterproofing.
3. Installation of logs from a wooden bar measuring at least 40x40 cm. The installation step is 40-65 cm, depending on the size of the room. Installation is carried out with the formation of a slope towards the drain holes.
4. Laying or backfilling of thermal insulation between the lags. Expanded clay is usually used for this purpose, but mineral wool also shows itself perfectly. Do not use foam that can release harmful substances when heated. Then another layer of waterproofing and a vapor barrier with a foil layer are laid (for a steam room).
5. After the completion of the formation of the base of the floor, a rough flooring of boards can be applied, which increases the strength of the structure. However, this element is optional. In principle, the finishing plank coating can also be attached directly to the logs.

The floor in the bath from the boards has long been considered a traditional design. With the correct implementation of all work and the adoption of protective measures, it is able to serve for a long time even in extreme conditions of the steam room. It is important to choose the right type of wood and carry out the necessary preparatory work.

Upon completion of the assembly of the frame of the bath structure, you can do interior finishing work, among which the procedures for arranging floors occupy a special place. In this article we will try to talk about how to make the floor in the bath with our own hands from wood and concrete, we will give a step-by-step guide, as well as photo and video instructions.

First of all, it should be noted that both wood or concrete and ordinary ceramic tiles can be used for the manufacture of bath floors (in some cases, floors can be made directly on clay).

The main thing to focus on when carrying out work is to ensure the normal outflow of used water. We also note that when finishing floors in “hot” rooms, in no case is it allowed to use synthetic materials (linoleum, for example), which, when heated, can release toxic and harmful substances.

Particular attention in the production of such work should also be paid to the insulation of the flooring, which most directly affects the comfort of the procedures taken. In those cases when you decide to make a concrete floor, be sure to make sure that it is covered from above with wooden flooring or special cork slabs that provide comfortable washing conditions.

Wooden

From the foregoing, it follows that before you make the floor in the bath, you will definitely need to decide on the material used to make it.

Wooden floors are recommended to be made from coniferous wood (fir, pine, larch or spruce); and in this case you can use two options. The first of them involves the arrangement of a continuous, water-impervious coating, and in the second case, the floorboards are laid with a small gap, providing a free drain of washing waste.

Solid or "non-leaking" floors are made by embedding the lag directly into the clay or setting them on concrete (preferably with a slight indentation) followed by a dense covering with tongue and groove boards. But before that, a classic screed is made on the concrete surface, which has a slight slope towards the drain. At the same time, at a certain point, on the edge or in the middle of the room, a collection of drains is installed, connected to the sewer system of your home.

The preparation of the so-called leaking floor is usually carried out according to the following scheme:

1. First, well-leveled and compacted soil is covered with a layer of gravel with sand, which is subsequently poured with liquid concrete.
2. In its shape, the poured surface should resemble a funnel with gentle slopes and with a center at the place of collection of wastewater (with a protective grate installed in the drain).
3. Then wooden logs are mounted on brick columns, which serve as the basis for placing the flooring.
4. And at the end of the work, edged floorboards are laid on these logs with a gap of 5–6 mm.

When arranging such a floor, take care of the waterproofing of the columns supporting the logs by lining sections of roofing felts or roofing felt, folded in several layers, under them. In the absence of bricks, fragments of old concrete slabs can be used as a support. You should also pay attention to the fact that it will be possible to start preparing the floors in the steam room and washing room only after you have completed the installation of the water drainage system and prepared the foundation for the stove.

We must not lose sight of the need for antiseptic treatment of wood structural elements, and also do not forget about the ventilation of the spaces under the floor, which ensures their safety. In particular, the removal of wet fumes can be organized through the use of a furnace blower.

Concrete floor in washroom and steam room

Many experts consider the arrangement of the concrete floor in the bath to be an economically correct and profitable solution. The long service life of concrete speaks in favor of this method of arranging the floor. A quality screed can last more than 30 years. Among the advantages of this floor it is worth noting:

• Resistant to temperature extremes and high humidity.
• Doesn't rot.
• Concrete does not develop harmful microorganisms and fungi.

To care for the concrete floor, you do not need to buy expensive household chemicals. In addition, you have the opportunity to decorate the floor, for example, with tiles.

The bath uses a lot of water. This suggests the need for arranging a drain. Before concreting the floor, a drainage system should be designed and implemented. To do this, you need to determine the point that will most easily equip the sewer system. At this point, an intermediate tank should be placed, which can be made in the form of a small pit, having a size of 40 × 40 × 30 cm. The simplest method for processing the pit is concreting, with a layer of at least 5 cm.

Then, from this tank, drainage should be made into a manhole / septic tank. For these purposes, you can use a fan pipe with a diameter of 200 mm.

The soil should be leveled and then rammed. Then fill the floor with coarse gravel 15 cm thick. Gravel can be replaced with a brick fight. The next layer of crushed stone is 10 cm thick.

After the crushed stone has been compacted, a layer of concrete 5 cm thick should be poured. It should be made with a slope towards the preliminary wastewater tank.

To significantly reduce heat loss in the bath, the concrete floor should be insulated. This is done after the first layer of concrete has cured. Expanded clay can be used as a heater. It needs to be covered with a layer of 5-8 cm.

This is not the only insulation that is suitable for arranging a concrete floor. Often, building felt or mineral wool is used for these purposes. But, it is worth considering the fact that when laying mineral wool as a heater, you will have to additionally waterproof it. Roofing material can be used as a waterproofing layer.

Between the floor and the wall should be filled with bitumen.

Another option for floor insulation is pouring cement mortar with perlite (a rock of volcanic origin). It has been used in this direction relatively recently. The advantages of this component are high water absorption and thermal insulation characteristics.

Perlite is a very light material and must therefore be handled indoors.

The batch is done in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is important to strictly follow the instructions that are indicated on the packaging for the product.

A second concrete layer should be poured onto the insulation or waterproofing (depending on the insulation material you installed). In this case, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh (it can be wire or reinforced mesh) before pouring concrete. In order for the concrete to be strong as a result, it must be tamped, leveled with a rule, and the tightening concrete should be poured on top.

For pouring the screed, a sand-cement mortar or a self-leveling mixture is used. If tiles will be used to decorate the floor, then it is better to buy a cement mixture designed for this purpose.

The screed must be poured in one go, so you need to act quickly. Start pouring from the far corner, leveling the solution with a trowel. You need to tighten it with the rule in a circular motion, which would be directed towards the exit from the room. After the screed should harden, this process takes several days.

With the addition of plasticizers, the hardening process of concrete is accelerated. They, among other things, enhance the strength of concrete, securely connect the constituent components of the mortar together and prevent the possibility of cracks.

The screed fully hardens in 3 weeks. In the first week, it must be watered from time to time.

The surface quality is determined after the concrete has completely dried. If the screed has a uniform gray tint, then this indicates its uniformity. In addition, there will be no visible marks from a hammer blow on durable and high-quality concrete.

Ceramic tile is most often used as a concrete floor finish in a bath. The tile will also look spectacular. A significant disadvantage of tiles is that when wet, it becomes slippery, which increases the risk of injury. Therefore, on the practical side, it is better to lay metlakh tiles on the concrete floor.

You should not use linoleum and other synthetic coatings in bath rooms (even in those in which temperatures are not as high as in a steam room). The fact is that in the process of heating, substances are released from them that can lead to intoxication, that is, severe poisoning of the body.

Auxiliary premises

In rooms with a low level of humidity and relatively low temperature, it is allowed to use laminate and linoleum prohibited for steam rooms. In the dressing room, such a coating is covered over a special flooring, which makes it possible to dry the floors. When using such a base, the flooring is double, consisting of a rough and finishing flooring.

When working with the floor, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

• the optimal height of the sexual base above the ground is considered to be a level exceeding this mark by at least 30 cm;
• for the manufacture of natural wood flooring, edged or tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of about 25–35 mm are selected;
• laying logs on brick columns in such structures is mandatory.

The procedure for arranging floor coverings in a bathhouse made in the old Russian style, in fact, is no different from the procedures described above (taking into account the fact that the floors in the steam room can even be earthen). Before preparing them, you will need to do the following operations:

1. Along the perimeter of the base, at a distance of about 50 cm from the foundation, soil is first selected (to a depth of about 45–50 cm).
2. The resulting site is filled up to the required level with a mixture of fine gravel and sand, and then carefully compacted.
3. The boards are laid directly on the prepared base, which is quite consistent with the floors made according to the old methods.

Video

This video will answer the most frequently asked questions about the floor in the bath:

A photo

Scheme

These schemes will help you in arranging the floor in the bath:

As soon as a person becomes the owner of a country house, he has a quite predictable desire to have a bathhouse as well. This building is very easy to construct with your own hands, and you do not have to spend large financial resources. When building a bath, close attention should be paid to the floor structure - a well-mounted coating will ensure the outflow of water, and will not rot, and will not stop functioning ahead of time. In addition, a pleasant appearance will always please the eye.

To adequately cope with the task, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the types of flooring and the specifics of their application.

Peculiarities

It is very important to pay attention to the design and implementation of the floor structure in the bath. If everything is done with high quality, it will be possible to provide high comfort to everyone in the room, as well as the durability of its service and versatility.

The peculiarity of the floor in the bath is that it performs several equivalent functions. Firstly, the coating ensures the safety of movement of a person who is at the junction of "two elements". Secondly, in the steam room area, it is responsible for removing excess water. Thirdly, it is an important part of the whole structure of the sauna house. It is worth adding that the floor also contributes to the retention of heat in the room.

Most often, the floor in the bathhouse is made of wood and concrete. Sometimes a brick is also used, which is characterized by high cost and a complex installation procedure.

Floor device

To design a steam room, one of two basic types of floor is used: leaking and non-leaking. The leaky one is always represented by a wooden structure made of floorboards, which is mounted on a supporting lag system. As for the logs, they are mounted at a certain height on the support pillars, lower crown or concrete screed. In order for the water to descend unhindered, a tiny gap is left between the rugs.

A non-leaking floor is made of wood or concrete. It is a monolithic coating with a small slope, at the bottom of which a hole is cut, connected to the sewerage system. Through it, the used water is sent to the drain hole.

Both varieties show certain advantages and disadvantages. A leaky floor collects pretty soon, but it fails just as quickly. It is worth adding that if it is not insulated, then the temperature in the steam room will be problematically low.

The non-leaking layer demonstrates a complex structure, which allows for high-quality waterproofing and thermal insulation. In the event of a breakdown, you will have to completely remove the final layer, while for a leaking one, removing only part of the rugs will suffice.

materials

According to experts, it is best to make the base of the floor from concrete, especially if there is a desire to build a capital building of brick or stone, with several rooms, which will be used throughout the year. The concrete floor must be supplemented with a water drainage system and provided with waterproofing. This design is strong and durable, it is not afraid of water, steam, or temperature changes. Concrete floors can be used for up to 45 years without additional repairs.

However, there are also certain disadvantages. Firstly, they are cold, so you have to insulate with an additional coating, for example, tiled or bulk. Secondly, concrete floors require significant investments, both financial and labor. Concrete floors can be poured in three stages.

If a small bathhouse is being built, which is operated only during the summer season, then it makes sense to choose a wooden floor. It is quickly and easily built from environmentally friendly materials (preferably a larch board), looks very attractive and creates a unique atmosphere of an old Russian sauna in the steam room.

Unfortunately, such structures do not differ in durability, because in any case, wood will lose its original characteristics, being treated with water and temperature changes. From this it follows that it is worth being ready to re-lay the floor after a certain period of time.

When installing wooden floors, it is recommended to choose coniferous trees - fir, larch, pine and others. Since such wood contains a large amount of resin, it will be less susceptible to moisture, and the essential oils released will positively affect the health of those taking water procedures. It is worth adding that softwood floorboards, when wet, will not become slippery, which means they will prevent falling.

Wooden structures are divided into leaking and non-leaking. The pouring floor does not have a heater, therefore it is suitable for bathhouses located in the southern regions, or for options operated exclusively in the warm season.

A non-leaking floor is built from two layers of boards. The upper one, which will go on top of the lag, is preferably constructed from a pine or hardwood board, and the lower, dry one, can be equipped with a heater.

Logs are installed on the embedded beam in the case of a column foundation, or on the edge in a situation with a strip foundation. Contact points are insulated with roofing material coated with bitumen, eurobitumen or similar waterproofing material.

If the bath begins to stand on screw piles, then a hanging, leak-proof plank floor will be a good option. An additional layer of insulation will help you use the bath at any time of the year.

Wooden floors should not be painted or treated with chemical solutions. This is unlikely to add durability, but it will deprive the boards of the opportunity to breathe and fill the steam room with a unique coniferous aroma. The most acceptable solution would be to carefully sand the boards before starting construction. You can also cover the floor with a heat-resistant water-based varnish that can withstand up to 120 degrees. The elastic coating resists moisture, fumes and dirt from penetrating into the boards.

The two-layer composition is applied to the sanded and disinfected coating using a paint brush. The whole procedure is carried out in a ventilated room at a temperature of 5-30 degrees. Only after the varnish has dried after 2-3 hours is it allowed to start laying the floor covering.

Preparatory work

Having decided to create a floor in the bath with your own hands, you need to start with high-quality preparatory work. The owner must deal with the type of soil that is present on his territory. If sand, then this is the best option, because in order to equip spaces for outgoing drains, you only have to fill in gravel 25 cm thick. If there is soil that does not filter well, for example, clay, then you will have to make a tray for moving liquid waste outside the bath .

In the case of large-scale bath buildings, it is also worth considering the supporting pillars in advance. Under each column with a cross section of 25 cm, a small foundation is prepared or sand is rammed. An asbestos pipe with the required diameter, buried in the ground, will become a good support. Soil is rammed around, and then cement mortar is poured into the finished formwork. Before installation, the lag columns are aligned.

Before installing the floor, it is also necessary to remove excess rubbish, roots, large stones and the like from the ground. If the inside of the bearing blocks is clearly damp, then work will have to be postponed until they are partially dry.

Mounting

A concrete floor is a conventional screed made from a solution of sand, cement and special fillers such as crushed stone, gravel or natural marble chips. Ready mixes are sold in all hardware stores in dry form and are completely ready for use. The mixture is diluted with ordinary water, according to the step-by-step guide, mixed with a perforator with a suitable nozzle and used for its intended purpose.

If the screed will be the final coating or light boards will be fixed to it, no additional ingredients need to be added to the mixture. If the concrete is to be covered with tiles, then it is recommended to introduce gypsum and anhydrite into the initial composition. You can do it yourself or purchase a suitable option in the store.

The concrete floor is mounted on logs or directly on the ground. If you follow the step-by-step instructions, then first of all you have to create a system for removing water. It is a construction of a small hole dug in the ground and two pipes. The pit measures 40 x 40 x 30 centimeters and its walls and bottom are to be covered with concrete. On one side of the hole, a pipe with a cross section of 20 cm is inserted, which will go into the gutter or into an autonomous septic tank. The second pipe will connect the pit to the bath itself.

It is recommended to provide it with a valve to prevent unpleasant odors from entering the steam room. In addition, it is recommended to make “vents” from asbestos pipes in the basement of the bath. They will help to eliminate unpleasant "olfactory effects".

At the second stage, it is necessary to prepare a platform on which the screed will be placed. To create a "pit", the top layer of soil is removed, then sand, brick breakage, gravel and crushed stone are poured into the resulting recess. A layer of the first three components should reach a thickness of 25 cm, and gravel - 10. Everything is well compacted and poured with a mixture of sand and cement, up to 6 centimeters thick.

It is important that the concrete layer is sloping towards the prepared hole with pipes.

After the mortar has dried, thermal insulation and waterproofing are laid. Mineral wool and foam plastic or vapor barrier and felt insulation are used as insulation. Roofing material or ordinary polyethylene film can act as a waterproofing agent. The last material is placed under the thermal insulation and on top of it. At the next stage, a metal grid is mounted for high-quality reinforcement.

Finally, from the far corner to the exit from the steam room, the main screed is poured. Immediately you need to level the solution with a trowel and, if necessary, correct the flaws, which will require the help of another person. The floor will dry out for 2-3 days, and then boards or tiles can already be mounted on top. The trim is also laid at an inclination of 2 cm in the direction of the drain. If the concrete is chosen for the final floor, then it needs to be processed: leveled and sanded. Drain holes for comfort and aesthetic appeal should be closed with wooden bars.

The concrete floor is quite cold, so it is also recommended to prepare special wooden gratings for people to walk on. These grilles are dried after each visit to the bath. The same designs are used in the presence of ceramic tiles. They allow you to limit slipping on the floor and excessive heating of the tile.

The floor in a wooden bath is created in two different ways. The first allows you to make a leaky coating, and the second - non-leaking. In the first case, suitable for beginners, a deck of boards is mounted at intervals of approximately 3 mm to remove liquids. Through them, the water moves immediately into the hole for drainage. The dominant trump card is the fact that such a floor can be removed and dried, which means that it will not rot and can be used for a longer time.

The plot of land is leveled and sprinkled with gravel. Next, a usually clay surface with a pit is formed. If the choice is given to a cement screed, then it must be provided with waterproofing. Wooden logs, which should be pre-treated, are mounted on supports through a gap of 50 cm - so the air can freely blow over the structure from all sides. Then the flooring is laid, leaving gaps of 2-3 mm between the walls, floor and boards. A slope for water drainage is arranged under a wooden deck, for which gravel is used. The descending water will be directed to the filter well.

Such a design can last up to 6 years if the coating is periodically dried. It is recommended to collect it from larch or coniferous species, but in no case from oaks, which are very slippery when wet. The boards should be 4–5 cm thick. Usually, leaking floors are used in summer cottages, where the owners come periodically during the summer season.

The second type of wooden floors is non-leaking with a drain, which is chosen by the owners of year-round heating bathhouses. The floor is placed on a concrete screed with a slope, which is formed so that the water drains without problems and is directed to a sump adapted for this. These coatings can last up to 12 years, due to the presence of draft and heat-insulating layers.

First of all, a hole is made with pipes according to the algorithm given for concrete floors. Then the site is prepared, and, if desired, a concrete screed is poured. The floor base is covered with roofing felt for waterproofing and expanded clay foam for insulation.

The logs are mounted on solid bedside tables, which are cut out of reinforced concrete and decorated with brick or concrete stands, through a gap of 50 centimeters. Then the intermediate base is installed. The height at which the lags are planned is determined depending on the height of the embedded beam (with a columnar foundation) or concrete "tapes" (with a strip foundation). Logs are placed in parallel with the narrow side of the steam room away from the walls of the bath - it is recommended to consider a gap of 3–4 cm. Cuts should also be made on the logs to achieve an inclined surface.

A water collector with dimensions of 40 x 40 cm and a depth of 30 cm is placed between the supports and compacted with concrete mortar or clay. At a height of 2 cm from the bottom, a pipe is mounted at an angle so that the liquid calmly enters the cesspool.

The "lower" floor of low-grade boards, fixed at the bottom of the beams, is covered with another layer of insulation and roofing material, as well as vapor barrier, which will protect all previous levels from liquids. After that, with a slope of 10 degrees, a finishing layer of tongue-and-groove boards is mounted. The mounting groove must fit inside the structure. The slope occurs due to the fact that the clearing in the lag increases on the side that goes to the collection point.

It is important that the boards adjoin closely, and the coating is attached to the joists with screws and nails at an angle of 45 degrees. The boards are selected with a thickness of 3-5 cm. The foundation for the stove-heater is mounted after installing the log, but before laying the flooring.

Upon completion of all these works, the room is dried, the boards are finally nailed, and the floor itself is supplemented with skirting boards. The plinth should be mounted so that the flowing moisture cannot be under the slats. This means that there should not be any gaps, and the sheathing should lie down on the baseboard itself.

Warm floor

The warm floor in the bathhouse allows not only to achieve the optimal microclimate in the room, but also to dry it with high quality. Thus, there is an extension of the duration of the operation of the finish and lower floors. The underfloor heating system is actually expensive, but it creates additional comfort for its owners.

To design a heated system in a bath, you can use two methods: water pipes or an electric cable. The first option is rather complicated in terms of installation. Water pipes are heavy, especially under water pressure. This means that you will have to make reinforced reinforcement of the floor screed. It is a closed pipeline system through which, due to the operation of the pump, the liquid heat carrier moves. Usually it is water, but antifreeze, ethylene glycol and other varieties are also allowed. In order to equip such a system, you will need a boiler, a pump, plastic or copper pipes, as well as fittings.

The design is complex, so it will be problematic to identify the cause of the leak, especially if there is a concrete screed. And in case of serious damage, you will have to change the entire system. The disadvantages of the water floor in the steam room also include:

• installation complexity - many bends, it is difficult to maintain the necessary gaps between the pipes;
• the use of a water pump is a plentiful waste of energy resources;
• difficult temperature control.

There are two ways of laying a water floor: concrete and flooring. The first is similar to laying electronic cables, but is thicker. The pipe laying step reaches 40 cm. Sharp bends and kinks that interfere with the circulation of the coolant should not be observed. The second is carried out on a special basis made of wood or polystyrene foam. In addition, a warm floor can also be mounted on a wooden surface.

For the installation of a floor with water heating, pipes made of metal-plastic, polyethylene or steel are most often used. Their laying is carried out in two ways: "snake" or "snail". The first method is available only to professionals, as it is considered very laborious. Its main disadvantage is that the floor surface experiences different temperature conditions. At the entrance, they are usually the highest, and the farther away, the colder. The fact is that the water supply occurs from one side, and leaves - to the other. The second laying method allows you to evenly distribute heat throughout the floor.

For the construction of the electrical system, factory "cable floors", film infrared models or rod infrared mats are used. Very often there are concerns about the safety of using an electric heated floor in a steam room or washroom. The owners are worried that due to a breakdown there will be a threat of electric shock. However, this option is impossible, because the possibility of the appearance of liquid in the system tends to zero. The design warms up under the action of high temperatures and dry air, and even in the event of a breakdown, moisture simply does not have time to get inside.

Electrical cables are quite simple and in every way easy to install. They are sold ready-made "submarines", which remains to be placed on the floor surface and poured with concrete. The cable must be laid on a mesh base. This system has no special problems with repair and installation. In addition, it is equipped with temperature sensors.

Infrared electric underfloor heating is said to be the most affordable and easiest way to provide auxiliary heating. Thermal film, sold in rolls, is rolled out on the coating, and strips with heating elements are glued to the base with a primitive adhesive tape. There is no need for a cement screed, nor for additional waterproofing and thermal insulation.

Tile adhesive is immediately poured on top of the film, and tiles are mounted, usually from porcelain stoneware or clinker. The floor covering can be placed directly on the warm layer, but the craftsmen still prefer to leave an insulating and leveling layer between the film and the floor lining.

Infrared floors are completely sealed and electrically safe and can be used even on floors with wooden components. The maximum heating temperature is 45 degrees and is very comfortable for visitors.

Elements of a rod infrared heat-insulated floor are also called mats. The heating elements in them are rods that are attached to the power wires. Rod “joins” are made in parallel, so the failure of one rod will not lead to disruption of the entire system, which is very thoughtful. The core floor is mounted in tile adhesive or cement screed.

Conventional underfloor heating is placed on thermal insulation, then leveled with a screed, on top of which the final coating is placed. Professionals also recommend not saving on waterproofing, which can prevent condensation from appearing during the work process. As a waterproofing, a simple polyethylene film is used, as a heater - mineral wool, expanded clay, expanded polystyrene and penofol.

Do not forget that when choosing a warm floor, it is extremely important to correctly approach the purchase of the final floor covering. If it is a tile that heats up quickly, you will have to put wooden grates on top.

Design

There are a huge number of options for finishing bath rooms: steam rooms, washing rooms, rest rooms. However, the design of the flooring is not particularly original - as a rule, it is concise and functional, and other decorative elements are responsible for the aesthetic component. Usually the choice depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities. The main criteria are still the use of natural materials, minimalism and convenience.

The following materials are suitable for the floor:

• wood- looks natural, creates the right atmosphere, affordable and environmentally friendly;
• concrete- durable, but aesthetically unattractive, and the problem of cold is still acute;

• tile- many colors, it is possible to choose non-slip models;
• porcelain stoneware- looks aesthetically pleasing, but slippery, so if applied, it is better for a rest room, matte or polished.

The traditional finish of the steam room involves the use of hardwood lining as a wall covering. Such walls warm up quickly, but their temperature is considered comfortable for casual touches. In no case should pine lining be used to decorate a steam room, since this base, when heated, produces toxic substances. For the ceiling, a lining made of class A or B linden is suitable. If there is a desire to decorate a traditional Russian bathhouse, then a linden croaker with a bast will be the best finishing option.

The floor in the steam room can be made of wood or concrete, and a block of tiles can be placed near the stove. If it is decided to cover the entire surface with tiles, you will have to take care of wooden grates that will not heat up.

Most often, preference is given to wooden coatings. The interior should be lively, natural and without the presence of synthetic materials.

If preference is given to a steam room - a sauna, then you can use a variety of design solutions. For example, combine lining with stone, and brick with granite slabs and a block house. However, for the floor, only wooden coverings are again recommended.

For the washroom, as a rule, combinations of wood and ceramic tiles are chosen. For example, it can be softwood, which has high water-repellent characteristics and an attractive appearance.

The tile should be anti-slip and maintain a comfortable temperature. Otherwise, a special mat is required.

In the vestibule or rest room, aesthetic combinations of porcelain stoneware, natural stone, wallpaper and plaster are used. The design is carried out by a harmonious combination of furniture, accessories and finishing materials. There are no special requirements, the only thing is that the rest room should set in the right mood and allow you to spend time comfortably.

So that the process of installing the floor in the bath goes “without a hitch”, experts recommend following a number of regulations.

• For insulation, you should choose materials that are least responsive to elevated temperatures and humidity. That is, it is better to simultaneously organize not only heat, but also hydro and vapor barrier.
• The bars should be laid correctly so that the liquid has the opportunity to descend along the joint line.
• If there is a possibility of moisture filling the space under the floor, it is necessary to lay a gap from the internal backfill over the ground to the wooden base. Its size reaches 15 centimeters.
• Fiberglass floor pads on waterproofing will make movement on the floor inaudible. They are made in the form of a thick tape, which is extremely convenient.

• Wooden materials must be treated with an antiseptic. It is desirable to use a composition that can destroy all microorganisms and prevent damage to boards and beams. In addition, all wooden parts are pre-dried or purchased already in this form. If this is not done, the material will curl during operation, cracks will appear and the shelf life of the floor will be significantly reduced.
• If it is necessary to arrange ventilation, it is important to organize its correct output. Usually a separate pipe path follows the wall to the attic. If the foundation is monolithic, then it is recommended to make holes that will connect the ventilation gaps with the air outside.
• If the area of ​​​​the steam room is large, then one drain will not cope with all the water. It will be necessary to think about a few so that the material does not rot too quickly.
• Pouring floors not only eliminate moisture, but also lead to heat loss. In this situation, it is necessary to insulate the foundation and the basement of the log house, and place the sauna stove below the floor level.

• The floor in the steam room rises relative to ground level. And in a separate washing room, on the contrary, it should be lower than in other rooms.
• It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap under the floor. It can be installed with a height of 10-15 cm.
• It is worth mounting the finishing floor so that there is an angle of inclination in the direction that is directed along the length of the boards, and not in width. This will help extend the life of the products, since the direction of water is also one of the causes in the processes of decay.

• To prevent the board from bursting when screwing in the screw, you need to work at an angle of 45 degrees.
• In no case should you use linoleum, laminate and other synthetic coatings in the baths, even in the rest room. In any case, such materials will begin to heat up and release substances that can poison the body. In the dressing room, such a coating should be placed on top of a special flooring that makes it possible to dry the floors.
• Selected boards must be edged or tongue-and-groove. Their thickness varies from 25 to 30 mm.

Beautiful examples

High-quality processed concrete screed on the floor will go well with wooden walls and ceilings. The materials for the latter can be boards and lining, forming an original combination. A large window, a laconic stove and simple wooden shelves will perfectly complement the interior.

The tiled area under the heater can become a bright accent of the steam room and, echoing the washing room, combine two interiors into one. You can add brutality to the room if you replace it with natural or artificial natural stone. He, in turn, will require inserts on the walls of the steam room itself.