Features of home care for different types of alocasia. We study various methods of reproduction of alocasia Alocasia care and transplantation

- a wonderful houseplant with decorative leaves and a cob-shaped flower wrapped in a stipule-spread. The leaves of alocasia are large and oblong, in the shape of a triangle, dark green in color with clearly visible light veins. The plant looks quite original even without flowers, which are not particularly beautiful. 3-4 large leaves of alocasia growing from one root already represent an interesting floristic composition.

General rules and breeding methods

Florists claim that alocasia purifies the air in the room, has healing properties. Sometimes it is grown at home in order to prepare a cure for cancer from it. Therefore, it is not surprising that the flower is willingly sold and bought - for themselves or for a gift. But first it must be propagated and grown.

Reproduction of alocasia at home occurs in various ways: by dividing the roots, by stem cuttings, by basal babies, by rooting the leaf, by seeds. Depending on the type of plant, the method of its reproduction is also chosen. So alokaziya calidora reproduces only by baby tubers, the method of propagation by leaves and seeds is not suitable for this species.

All of the listed breeding methods of alocasia are subject to general rules that must be followed in order to grow a full-fledged plant at home. Let's call these rules:

The soil for planting and propagating alocasia should consist of peat, sphagnum moss, perlite and sand. The bottom of the pot should have drainage from a mixture of crushed charcoal, vermiculite, and broken clay bricks.

The soil must be disinfected by heating, freezing or manganese solution. The roots of alocasia grow deep, so the pot must be tall and stable in the shape of a bucket.

Alocasia will take root and grow well on light, moisture- and breathable soil and normal or low acidity. It should always be moist, watering should be carried out systematically.

All planting materials, except seeds, must be treated with cinnamon powder, wood ash or charcoal powder before planting at the cut points.

For better root formation, cuttings, children and leaves are soaked for 15-20 minutes in a root formation stimulator.

Some types of alocasia have only three leaves, when the fourth appears, the “oldest” leaf begins to dry out and dies. To make the bush more lush, you can plant 2-3 seedlings or tubers in one pot.

Reproduction of alocasia is best to start in the spring, because it is at this time that the biological activity of all living organisms increases. But if necessary, rooting can be carried out in summer and autumn, in winter the cuttings may die without rooting.

Reproduction by tubers is carried out in the spring. Often the tubers grow so well that they begin to protrude above the ground - this is the best material for propagating alocasia. They are separated from the rhizome during transplantation and germinated in a small plastic cup with a drainage hole. Each small nodule is planted in a separate cup, and within 2-2.5 months after planting, roots will grow and the first leaf will appear.

For propagation by leaves, it is necessary to cut a new, young leaf. First, it is kept a little without water to reduce turgor, and then the petiole is cut off and deepened into the soil mixture in a small pot.

The container with the sheet is covered with a glass jar or a plastic bottle without a bottom to retain moisture and increase the temperature. The cover is removed every day for ventilation, watering is carried out as needed.

Transplant a leaf into a pot after it has roots - in a transparent cup they will be clearly visible. When the arrow of the second leaf appears, the cover can be removed, now the seedling does not have to create greenhouse conditions, but still the air temperature in the room should be quite high - not lower than 22-25 degrees.

Reproduction of alocasia by stem cuttings occurs in the same way.

Reproduction by seeds at home is another opportunity to get a new plant. To do this, use fresh seeds that are ripe after flowering. It must be said that this breeding method is complicated by the fact that at home the plant blooms very rarely, so getting seeds is not at all easy.

Moreover, the germination of seeds is maintained only while they are in the berries - wet shells. Finding such seeds in our country is not so easy, but if there is such an opportunity, you can get to work.

The substrate for sowing seeds can be bought ready-made, as well as made independently, at home from humus, river sand and high-moor peat. Seeds are not embedded in the soil, but simply compacted, moistened with a spray bottle and covered with glass or film. The cover is removed daily for airing and moisturizing.

The first shoots will appear in 7-20 days, this period is different for different types of alocasia. Seedlings dive twice, planted in a permanent place in the stage of two true leaves.

Agricultural technology

Now the new plant needs to be provided with good conditions and caring care. Alocasia prefers diffused light, spots appear on its leaves from the direct rays of the sun - this is a sunburn. Therefore, it is better to grow it in the back of a room facing west or east.

In winter, the flower is additionally illuminated with a phytolamp, with a lack of light, the leaves may lose their decorative effect and even dry out.

As for the air temperature, it should be from 17 to 28 degrees, it is not at all difficult to create it at home, because this is normal room temperature.

Alocasia loves high humidity - within 80%, but since such dampness is not needed at home, the plant has to adapt and grow at an air humidity of 40-50%.

To create a comfortable environment for the plant, you can place the pot over a tray of wet expanded clay or moss so that it does not touch the water, otherwise the roots will rot.

Alocasia leaves should be wiped more often with a damp sponge - this way they will receive additional moisture and dust removal. Another way to humidify the air for a flower is to put any container of water next to it.

Watering - in spring and summer they should be frequent and plentiful, in winter and autumn they are reduced. In summer, the plant is watered as the topsoil dries, and in the cold season - once a week. Excess or lack of water can cause alocasia diseases and the appearance of ticks and other pests.

Alocasia growing at home is fed 2 times a month using complex fertilizers with a high content of nitrogen and potassium. You need to feed the flower in winter, but less often - 1 time in 1-1.5 months.

The nickname "Elephant Ear" was given to Alocasia for a reason. The tropical plant is famous for the striking beauty of large leaves, really resembling a huge auricle. And for the ability to "cry" before precipitation, he is called "Weather". This talent is explained simply - there are holes on the leaves through which excess moisture comes out. Before rain or fog, the humidity in the atmosphere rises and alocasia begins to remove it. The surface of the plates is covered with droplets that roll down - it seems that the flower is crying.

In nature, the exotic lives both in areas overgrown with trees in the form of undergrowth, and in completely open swampy areas, some species are even found in rocks. Such unpretentiousness to environmental conditions is preserved even at home.

If you are able to provide a humid habitat, you can safely start an alocasia! Otherwise, it is a completely undemanding plant that can grow almost anywhere.

Most of all, the flower is suitable for spacious, bright rooms, which it will decorate without taking away a place for people to live and without restricting them.

Planting a plant

It is produced immediately after the acquisition of alocasia in order to place the plant in a suitable nutrient substrate instead of a temporary store.

Landing methods

Transshipment in this case is completely unsuitable - the roots must be completely cleaned of soil and inspected. Alocasia is gradually removed from the pot by tapping on the walls and pushing through the drainage holes in the bottom.

The substrate is shaken off and washed off, the roots are examined for the presence of dried and rotten ones, they must be removed.

ADVICE! Clean healthy roots after all procedures are recommended to be soaked for 15-25 minutes in any stimulant to improve adaptation and reduce plant stress.

Place alocasia in a pot and carefully cover with soil, filling all cavities. The root neck should remain open, level with the soil surface.

Optimal landing time

Ideally, planting should be done in the spring, when the plant enters an active growth phase and has time to settle down in a new place over the summer. However, if the acquisition of alocasia occurred in autumn or winter, it can also be planted. It's just that the adaptation process will be more painful and longer.

Proper soil is one of the most important conditions for the normal growth of a flower in a house. It should have a slightly acidic reaction, have nutritional properties, pass water well into the pan and dry quickly.

The basis of the substrate is nutrient soil - leafy and soddy, humus is added to it to enrich it with useful elements, peat to obtain an acidic environment, as well as loosening components - sand, foam plastic crumbs, chopped moss, pieces of bark, vermiculite. The proportion is as follows: for 1 part of the base, 0.2-0.4 parts of the remaining ingredients are taken.

Pot selection

The root system of alocasia grows weakly in breadth and strongly down, so the pot should be chosen appropriately - deep and not wide. There should be space in it for further growth of the roots, but not very large so that the soil does not turn sour.

IMPORTANT! The ideal material for the container is plastic or unglazed ceramic.

Alocasia care at home

When caring for the "elephant's ear", be guided by the natural conditions of its growth. Like most plants in tropical areas, alocasia is very demanding on humidity and heat.

Location and lighting

When choosing a place for a flower, look at its leaves. Monochromatic, especially colored in dark shades of green, can be kept almost in the shade. Such varieties grow even on the north side or away from windows.

Alocasia with variegated and light leaves prefer bright, but not focused lighting on a western or eastern window sill.

Air humidity

By maintaining a humidity of at least 75-80%, you provide optimal conditions for the flower.

IMPORTANT! The plant must be sprayed with warm water daily, the leaves are dusted weekly, you can arrange a warm shower every 3-5 weeks.

With increased dryness of the air, place a wide container next to the alocasia, filled to the brim with water. You can put the pot on a stand with wet expanded clay or pieces of brick.

Temperature regime

In order for alocasia to feel great in the summer, it must be warm. The ideal boundaries are 23-27°. During the period of winter dormancy, it is not necessary to lower the temperature significantly in order for the plant to fully rest, the content at 17-19 ° is enough.

Watering mode

Summer watering should be systematic and plentiful. If alocasia grows in the right soil, it can be moistened literally in a day. This time is enough for the water to pour into the pan, and the substrate to dry out.

In winter, the plant is satisfied with the rest, reducing watering by half.

Top dressing and fertilizers

Such a large and fast-growing flower requires enhanced nutrition during the growing season. Fertilization begins in the spring, when alocasia starts to grow and is stopped by winter. Organic substances are needed no less than mineral ones, since the whole beauty of a flower lies in the growth of green mass.

ATTENTION! Organics and mineral complexes are introduced in turn, observing a break of 12-14 days.

This procedure is practically not required. The only pruning that can be carried out is the so-called cleansing. It is needed to remove dried or rotten leaves.

Trimming methods

The dead dried leaf is removed with a pruner to healthy tissues and the wound is covered with wood ash.

You can try to update the plant by cutting off all the leaves and leaving a bare trunk. This procedure will wake up dormant buds and make them grow. However, this is a rather risky procedure that does not guarantee successful completion. Yes, and not too necessary! Smart alocasia throws off old and extra leaves, renewing itself.

Transfer

A vital operation that young plants require every spring. More mature specimens that have reached the peak of their development can be transplanted with a break of a couple of years.

Young flowers are moved to larger pots to give the roots room to grow. Mature plants need only a change of depleted soil.

Transplant methods

To move healthy young plants, the transfer method is often used without disturbing the roots. They are simply taken out along with a bunch of earth and planted in a new pot, which should be 2.5-4 cm more spacious than the previous one.

It is better to free mature alocasia from the depleted substrate and inspect the roots. Dried and diseased parts can be cut off, and ripe tubers can be separated for propagation.

IMPORTANT! Be sure to put a layer of stones in the pot for drainage!

Alocasia is propagated to get new plants. This is a simple operation, often performed together with a transplant. The most time-consuming method is seed, since planting material cannot be found in stores and it is difficult to grow it yourself.

Reproduction methods

There are a lot of them - for every taste:

• Seeds. If you received alocasia seeds, sow them immediately! They are not stored at all, instantly losing their germination. Having spread the seeds evenly over the surface of the soil, they must be sprinkled on top and kept in a constantly moist environment.
• Nodules. They form on the roots and are easily separated during alocasia transplant. You can cut off brown tubers that have matured enough. White, uncovered nodules are considered very young, unprepared for independent growth. The separated parts are deposited in a separate container and looked after as always.
• Division of roots. The operation is also carried out during transplantation, if no suitable tubers are found. With a sharp knife, a part of the rhizome is cut off along with leaves or buds. The cut wound is disinfected with charcoal or activated charcoal, crushed into powder. After drying, both parts are planted in individual pots.
• Propagation by cuttings. A small cutting should be cut off, about 11-14 cm long. Soak in any growth stimulant, then plant in a substrate of sand and peat. Keep in greenhouse conditions, you can cover the stalk with half a plastic bottle or a jar.

When does alocasia bloom?

Only an adult, fully formed plant can bloom, which has already stopped intensive growth, having reached the maximum possible size.

Flowering time and flower shape

Alocasia blooms in warm weather - in summer or spring. The flowering period is short - from 5 to 12 days, depending on the variety.

The plant forms an unsightly single inflorescence in the form of an ear, which is wrapped in a blanket. The color of the inflorescence itself usually differs from the color of the "blanket".

What to do after flowering?

To release its nondescript flower, alocasia tries very hard, spending a lot of energy on it. Often she throws off most of the leaves, exposing the trunk. Blooming Tropicanka often stands with 1-2 single leaves. After flowering, she recovers for a long time and needs help. During this period, it is recommended to increase the amount of top dressing, introducing mineral and organic fertilizers.

More than 65 species of plants are known in the genus Alocasia. Far from all are suitable for home cultivation - some species in nature grow 3-4 meters in height.

Alocasia Sandera

Large plant, can grow 1-1.5 m tall. The trunk is thick and short, it has long (up to 40 cm) leaves on petioles. The foliage can be heart-shaped or arrow-shaped, painted dark green, on which light large veins stand out well. The edges are cut with denticles throughout.

This species is the parent of Alocasia Polly, a hybrid very similar to its parent. Another descendant, Amazonian alocasia, has larger shield-shaped leaves. The veins on them are light green, very thick.

Alocasia large root

She's Arma, she's Indian. A very impressive gigantic plant. The stem alone can reach 2m in length. The leaves are oval or heart-shaped, meter long and grassy in color.

Problems, diseases and pests

Beautiful alocasia rarely gets sick! It is very resistant to infections and pests, it can only affect putrefactive fungi with too active watering. Any modern insecticides will help get rid of the problem.

• Slowly growing alocasia needs to be fed with nitrogen fertilizers.
• The tips of the leaves dry when the plant lacks moisture in the soil and air.
• Leaf wilting occurs due to a violation of the irrigation regime.

Answers to questions from readers

In nature, plants can live 12-17 years, but in an apartment, the lifespan depends on the conditions that provided it.

Is alocasia poisonous?

Very poisonous! Its juice can cause dermatitis on the skin, so all work with the plant is carried out with gloves. And it is strictly forbidden to use inside.

Why doesn't the plant bloom?

Alocasia blooms very rarely - when it is already an adult and does not lack light, moisture, useful elements. If there is no flowering after 4-6 years, then not all conditions are fully met.

Why do leaves turn yellow and dry?

The reason may be damage to the roots during transplantation or insufficient watering.

Why aren't new leaves growing?

Alocasia suffers from a lack of lighting.

How does the plant overwinter?

In October, move alocasia to a darker and cooler room, cut off dying leaves and reduce watering. Alocasia is moved back to the windowsill at the end of winter, gradually returning the previous irrigation regime.

A modern human dwelling is often a stone box filled with furniture and appliances. Phenol fumes from furniture are released into the closed space. Fonit technique, producing and emitting harmful ions, a person smokes, launches the dirty air of the city into the apartment. Plants standing on racks and window sills absorb this dirt and release oxygen, its ions, and phytoncides in return. Large specimens, which include alocasia, are spectacular and useful. Therefore, connoisseurs of the microclimate and beauty give birth to alocasia, and caring for it at home is not difficult.

Why alocasia became a house plant

Have flower growers wondered why from time immemorial, by hook or by crook, travelers and botanists brought overseas plants from distant countries? Why did most of them not perish, but multiplied by hybrid forms? Some travelers risked their lives to get a new specimen for their botanical garden. Later it turned out that in addition to beauty, plants are priceless for their medicinal properties. It turns out that they not only absorb the hostile substances around us, but process them into poisons that heal in small quantities.

Our ancestors did not have as much knowledge as they do now, but intuitively chose and brought useful medicinal plants, which became homemade. Therefore, indoor alocasia flower in the apartment is a danger to children and animals, and care should be taken with protective gloves. But people love it, and gave their affectionate names - shamrock, weatherman. In folk medicine of eastern countries, among the natives of the tropics, this plant is used to treat such serious diseases as cancer, ulcers of various origins. Look!

Photo alocasia and home care

Any plant brought from afar requires certain conditions for life. The unhurried selection of nature for centuries has adapted plants to a region with special properties. Therefore, it is necessary to create special conditions for guests to live. And it even blooms when spring is in our homeland, and we have winter. It is important for the grower to find such care conditions to ensure the health of the plant in the home of people with other comfort requirements. Alocasia care in the photo will take a long time for a mature seven-year-old plant to bloom.

An inexperienced lover of home plants, acquiring alocasia, may encounter a number of problems caused by improper care:

1. Very slow growth of new leaves.
2. The plant is lethargic, the leaves have drooped, watering does not restore the tugor.
3. The leaves not only drooped, but turn yellow and dry, the lower ones fall off.
4. The dark green leaf becomes pale, the variegated leaves lose their decorative effect.
5. Dark spots appear on the leaves or the petiole begins to rot.

All these signs are the result of improper maintenance of the plant. Therefore, it is necessary to comply with the basic requirements of agricultural technology.

Initially, you should provide an indoor flower alocasia with a permanent place. It should not be touched by the sun's rays and drafts when airing the apartment. At the same time, the plant needs a lot of light, sometimes artificial lighting can be created.

You can not put the plant in a damp cold corner. For prosperity, the use of lower soil heating in a pot is practiced. If the roots are warm, they deliver food to the aerial parts faster and the plant prospers. In warm soil, phytophthora and root rot will not develop.

The tropical plant alocasia likes to be kept at a temperature of 21-27 0 in summer and not lower than 18 in winter. At the same time, winter maintenance should be with additional illumination so that the day is at least 10 hours.

A resident of the tropics loves the high humidity of the surrounding air. It is comfortable for her to be at 80% humidity in the room. This humidity is not suitable for humans. Therefore, a compromise is reached when keeping the plant in the kitchen or in the bathroom and next to the aquarium. You can set a pot of alocasia on a pallet filled with moss and expanded clay, which evaporate moisture around the plant. A humidifier will do. However, additional spraying with a fine spray and wiping the leaves with a damp sponge is also necessary.

Wet soil in a pot with alocasia is a prerequisite for summer maintenance. Watering is carried out every other day with settled soft water, the liquid that has flowed out through the drainage hole is removed. When watering by the bottom method, the remaining water is drained after 30 minutes. Winter is reduced until the topsoil dries up. The roots should be in a moist, air-saturated substrate. Therefore, alocasia is transplanted as the substrate compacts, when the roots become cramped in the container. At first, the plant is transplanted annually, later every three years, choosing a large capacity, but cramped for overgrown roots.

We remind you that all parts of the plant are poisonous and secrete a burning juice. Therefore, work related to contact with sections should be carried out only with gloves, and eyes and mucous membranes should be protected. Wash hands and tools after work with soap and a brush.

Alocasia soil loves low acidity, better than special preparation. Requirements for the composition of the soil allow the use of various components, adhering to the conditions:

• soil acidity 5.5-6.5;
• good moisture capacity;
• high air saturation;
• the presence of mineral components of various composition.

The addition of porous charcoal forms active centers for mineral salts, nutrition for the root system.

When transplanting alocasia, a deep container is used, since the roots of the plant are not superficial, deep. However, the container for alocasia should not be wide so that soil acidification zones do not form. The root system should fill the pot. Choose tall and conical vessels for stability. But there may be containers with vertical walls, if there is no danger of capsizing under the shift of the center of gravity, bent, heavy leaves of alocasia. Depending on the variety, with good care, alocasia at home can reach a height of two meters.

Tips from experienced flower growers specializing in alocasia

If the plant was purchased in a specialized store, a greenhouse, it is necessary to arrange quarantine for it for two weeks. When diseases or pests are found, it is easier to cure one plant than to infect an entire home garden. Monitoring should be carried out to detect:

• scale insects:
• spider mite;
• , phytophthora and powdery mildew.

Transplant a healthy plant into a new soil, completely clearing the greenhouse substrate, while preserving the roots as much as possible.

When preparing the planting soil, add vermiculite and perlite in an amount equal to a quarter of the substrate. They regulate the humidity in the pot and fill the composition with the necessary nutrient salts. Animal horn shavings can be used instead of vermiculite. The action is the same.

If a plant sheds leaves, it does not mean that it has died. The root system may be healthy and alocasia will grow back. To do this, you need to remove the container with the roots in a dark place with a temperature of about 17 0, very rarely moisten and expose to light after 2 months. Within a month, the first shoots should appear. Sometimes stubborn people sleep for up to six months.

After flowering, the plant inevitably loses its decorative effect. This is a normal physiological process, you should continue to care for the indoor flower alocasia , and his beauty will return.

The use of the lower heating of the earth coma is effective both in the propagation of the plant and during the growing season. By following the rules of care, you can not take care of the health of pets. A strong flower will overcome external misfortunes on its own.

Features of alocasia polly - video

More recently, alocasia was classified as a rare plant - it was practically never found on the shelves of flower shops. Today, its huge shield-shaped leaves with prominent veins attract buyers "on every corner." Before acquiring a spectacular plant, you need to prepare for the requirements of agricultural technology that alocasia will “present”. Care at home for her is quite complicated. This does not mean at all that you need to refuse an exquisite beauty - it is enough to familiarize yourself with the features of its cultivation.

Alocasia flower belongs to the aroid family. The genus Alocasia includes up to 70 different species, differing in size and leaf color.

The stem is thickened, usually vertical, but in some natural species it can be elongated or even creeping. In all cultivated plants, the stem is so short that it appears to be completely absent. On the stem is located from 4 to 8 highly decorative leaves. The "maximum" number of leaves is determined by the variety of alocasia. There can be no more of them - when the amount indicated by nature is reached, the old leaves begin to die off at the same rate as the young ones grow.

The leaf shape can be thyroid, arrow-shaped or heart-shaped. Young leaves are more rounded. The segments of the leaf plate are asymmetric, the edges are often entire, they can be pinnately dissected. The leaf length can vary from 20 to 100 cm.

One of the decorations of alocasia is the color of the leaf, which can vary from glossy dark green to light green. The leaf plate is "lined" with large convex veins, painted in lighter (or darker) tones.

When the humidity increases, the stomata of the leaves can release excess moisture: it seems that alocasia is crying. Often, “tears” stand out before the rain, so “popularly” it is called a weatherman.

The flowers of this plant are inconspicuous, they are an ear wrapped in a green veil. Alocasia “shows” flowering only in ideal conditions, so at home it most often does not bloom.

Main types and varieties

Different types of alocasia differ in size, shape and color of the leaves. Not all are suitable for growing at home, but there are also varieties that are more adapted to them.


The following alocasia attract attention:

There are many more varieties that are highly decorative.

Home care

Care for alocasia is reduced to the most accurate recreation of the conditions of its native land, tropical Asia. Like any plant in the tropics, alocasia feels comfortable only at high humidity and temperature, which is especially difficult to achieve in apartments.

Lighting

In winter, bright diffused lighting is required; in summer, the plant is placed in partial shade.

Different varieties of alocasia have different lighting requirements. Variegated or contrasting ones, such as Sander's alocasia, will need more light, otherwise they will fade. Varieties with plain leaves tolerate partial shade more easily. The need for light also depends on age: young plants need more of it.

Air humidity

Humidity is high; regular spraying is important, preferably kept in a greenhouse.

Like any indoor plant that “came” to us from the tropics, alocasia is demanding on air humidity. It is sprayed daily, the leaves are regularly cleaned of dust. You can increase the humidity by placing the pot on a tray with water and expanded clay. The best option, especially during the heating season, is a greenhouse.

Those who want to continue to admire the plant and at the same time provide sufficient air humidity for alocasia can use an aquarium. Expanded clay, sphagnum or sand are placed at the bottom, some water is poured, and a homely beauty is placed inside.

Temperature regime

The optimum air temperature is 18-25 degrees.

Alocasia is thermophilic, does not tolerate sharp temperature fluctuations and cold drafts. Therefore, it is located as far as possible from opening windows and vents, especially in winter. In summer, the plant, on the contrary, is protected from excessive heat.

Watering

Abundant, and at the same time careful watering is required - the plant does not tolerate both drying out of the earthen coma and stagnant water.

During the period of active growth, the soil in the pot is constantly kept moist. After a few hours, excess moisture must be drained from the pan: its excess will inevitably lead to rotting of the roots. In winter, watering is slightly reduced, allowing the top layer of soil to dry out. Water is used settled, heated to room temperature.

top dressing

Top dressing once a month with fertilizers with a high nitrogen content.

For the full care of alocasia at home, monthly mineral supplements will be required. Young plants need nitrogen and potassium to gain green mass and develop immunity, so they respond well to seedling fertilizers. For adult bushes, any top dressing for decorative and deciduous plants will be enough.

reproduction

Reproduction of alocasia occurs in the spring with the help of offspring, stem cuttings or tuber division. In the conditions of professional greenhouses, you can get seeds, but in room conditions it is almost impossible. In addition, varietal characteristics of some forms, such as Polly's alocasia, are not transmitted during seed breeding.

The separation of the daughter tubers or the separation of the mother tubers is usually carried out during the spring transplant. In the first case, young offspring are carefully detached, kept in a fungicidal solution, planted in a tight container and placed in a greenhouse. When dividing, the bush is cut so that each half has growth points and healthy roots. The place of the cut must be sprinkled with charcoal.

Cuttings occur according to the usual rules for aroids:

• the stalk is chosen so that it has several points of growth and a pecked root;
• the cut is processed with charcoal;
• for rooting use an equal mixture of peat and sand;
• necessarily the presence of a greenhouse, high (20-25 degrees) temperature and bottom heating.

It is important that a dormant bud remains on the stem under the cut, otherwise the mother plant may no longer start growing.

Transfer

Growing alocasia at home, be prepared for the need to replant it annually. All work with the plant is done only with gloves - it is poisonous, and even a light touch on the leaves or roots can cause irritation.

Choosing a pot and suitable soil

A container for alocasia is chosen high and moderately spacious so that 4-5 cm remain between the stem and the sides on each side. Every year, the home beauty must be transplanted into a new pot, which is 2-3 sizes larger than the previous one.

This plant categorically does not tolerate dense heavy substrates - the soil for alocasia should be slightly acidic, moisture and breathable, with good mechanical properties. You can use a mixture of leafy, soddy soil (coniferous soil is not added - it is too acidic), peat and sand (2: 2: 1: 3).

To improve the mechanical properties, 1 part of coconut fiber is added to the resulting mixture. The ideal primer for alocasia, when squeezed in a fist, retains and holds its shape, but crumbles at the slightest touch.

Step-by-step transplant process and care after it

When transplanting alocasia, it is advisable not to disturb the earthen ball, so it is carried out by the transshipment method:

• 2-3 cm of drainage and a small layer of soil are poured into a new pot;
• the plant is carefully removed;
• placed in the center of the prepared container;
• fill up the earth so that the measles neck remains open.

Sometimes, when transplanting, it is necessary to remove part of the root system - for example, with partial decay. In this case, the roots are completely cleaned of the soil, the damaged parts are removed, the cut points are treated with crushed charcoal. They are dried for 15 minutes before being placed in a pot.

After transplantation, care for alocasia comes down to the fact that the plant is placed in a greenhouse, which is ventilated daily. Water carefully, trying to prevent drying out and at the same time not to flood the alocasia.

Medicinal properties

Few people know that alocasia has medicinal properties: ointments, infusions are prepared from it, and fresh juice is sometimes used. All parts of the plant have healing properties. Preparations from the stem relieve toothache and stomach pain. The leaves are used in the treatment of pneumonia and tuberculosis. The tuber relieves tumors when applied externally.

To prepare the infusion, one crushed fresh leaf is poured with warm water and incubated for 8 hours. An alcohol tincture of alocasia is also used. To prepare it, the bottom sheet is cut off along with the petiole and 100 ml of alcohol (70%) is poured. Aged 10 days. Preparations are taken half an hour before meals, three times a day, 1 drop diluted in a tablespoon of water.

In diseases of the joints and trophic ulcers, gruel from the leaves is used, which is applied to the damaged area. You can mix it with a fat cream, and use it as an ointment.

Alocasia preparations are popular in Chinese traditional medicine. But it is worth remembering that they are extremely poisonous - self-administration of the course and dosage, as well as improper preparation, can lead to serious consequences.

Diseases and pests

Alocasia can also be affected by fungal diseases, including powdery mildew and various rot. Fungicides will help in the fight against such diseases; and they can be prevented by strictly following the rules of agricultural technology.

Potential Growing Problems

The most common difficulties that owners of alocasia have to face are related to improper care. For example, yellowing and drying of the leaves may indicate insufficient or excessive watering, low air humidity. Withered foliage can also indicate an excess of salts in the soil - in this case, more attention should be paid to settling water.

Slow growth signals a lack of nitrogen. Feed the plant regularly. Dark rotten spots appear on alocasia with sudden changes in temperature, cold drafts. The appearance of these "symptoms" on the trunk clearly indicates that the process of decay has begun in the root system. This often happens with excessive watering with cold water. The plant must be rescued immediately. If the green color of the leaves fades, alocasia does not have enough light. In the future, this will affect the growth rate, so the plant is provided with illumination or transferred to a brighter place.

Expert opinion

Mila Rozhkova

Color Expert

Despite the presence of certain difficulties, growing alocasia at home is possible. Following agricultural practices and providing the plant with conditions close to natural, you can admire the exotic beauty all year round.

Alocasia for many years (since the time of Catherine II) surprises flower growers with its exquisite beauty. At the same time, small difficulties in care are mainly associated with maintaining the required level of humidity, temperature and lighting. However, these worries are not so burdensome, especially when there is an opportunity to contemplate such an amazing creation of nature grown at home.

Origin and appearance of alocasia

Alocasia is an evergreen shrub native to the South Asian tropics. The peculiarities of the climatic conditions of these places endowed the plant with a specific ability to release excess moisture through the surface of the leaves that accumulates during the rainy season.

Interesting! Sensitive to changes in humidity and room alocasia. They can notify of waterlogging or warn of upcoming rain with droplets protruding from the leaves.

Alocasia is one of the most beautiful representatives of the Aroid family, characterized by highly decorative leaves. It is noteworthy that they all grow from a short, almost imperceptible stem, creating the illusion of its absence. Thus, a luxurious evergreen bush is formed, although alocasia is considered a herbaceous plant. The rhizome of alocasia looks like a tuber. The height of various species of this plant ranges from 30 cm to 2-3 m. This allows the grower to choose a specimen that matches his desires and capabilities.

On one bush there are about 4-8 leaves. It is noteworthy that when the fourth leaf appears, the process of natural death of old leaf plates begins. However, even with such a small number of leaves, the plant looks simply enchanting.

The leaves of most types of alocasia are quite large (up to 50 cm in length), hard, with a glossy surface. Their shape resembles a heart with pointed corners and curly edges. Clear and embossed streaks of light tone attract attention.

The alocasia flower is rather inconspicuous compared to the leaves. It looks like a kind of sailboat with a pinkish, yellowish or greenish sail and a mast in the form of a cob.

Home alocasia rarely blooms. And although the main beauty of this plant is in the leaves, it is pleasant to contemplate the graceful flowering of the plant and inhale the aroma of the flower. It is only necessary to create the necessary conditions for alocasia, which is not so difficult to do. After all, this Tropicana is well adapted to the climatic conditions of our apartments, not to mention greenhouses, where large species look especially exotic.

Important! Many experienced flower growers advise removing flower stalks before flowering, as they take a lot of energy from the plant, which leads to stunting of leaves.

If a rare flower is of interest, and you want to keep it, then after flowering, as a result of self-pollination, fruits may be tied on the cob. In the middle of each of them, as a rule, contains up to 5 seeds.

Popular varieties

Common features are characteristic of all varieties of alocasia, but they differ in a significant variety of leaves and dimensions. Experts identify about 70 species of this tropical beauty, but not all of them are suitable for growing at home.

Let's take a closer look at the recognized flower growers favorites:

• Sander. It has large elongated (approximately 50 x 20 cm) leaves with pointed tips and a figured edge. White streaks are brightly “drawn” on dark green leaves with a mercury sheen. The leaf blade has a light border. The leaves are formed on powerful petioles about 60 cm high.
• Polly. This is a variety of Sandera, which is distinguished by more patterned leaf edges and relatively frequent flowering.
• Amazon. A smaller variety of Sandera, 40–60 cm high. It is distinguished by almost smooth leaf edges, without teeth.
• The Dragon. A low (30-40 cm) plant with leaves in the form of rounded hearts, painted in light green with dark green veins.
• large root. This is a representative of large species of alocasia. The height of such a plant is about 2 m. The length of the petioles is about 1 m. The peculiarity of the leaf shape is a rather strong divergence of the edges in different directions from the petiole. This giant forms huge dark salad leaves 40 x 30 cm, sometimes up to 90 x 80 cm. During flowering, it forms a large (about 20 cm) cob with a yellow-green sail. The berries are glossy, dense, juicy red.
  This variety of alocasia has a variety with elegant leaves covered with white spots, and more modest in size.
• Klobuchkova. It can grow up to 1 m. The leaves are green, with relief veins. Their shape is similar to the correct heart with a sharp end. The average sheet size is 25 x 15 cm.
• Copper red. The most adapted to room conditions view. It is distinguished by rounded edges of leaves, having an average size of 30 x 15 cm. The front part of the leaf plate has a greenish-copper color with a glossy sheen, and the bottom is purple. The veins are dark green.

Species diversity of alocasia in the photo

Alocasia large-leaved - the largest type of alocasia Clear white veins - a feature of the Sandera variety Alocasia Polly - a Sandera hybrid with more pointed and curly leaves A distinctive feature of copper-red alocasia is the reddish-green color of the leaves. Alokaziya klobuchkovy - a variety with plain leaves-hearts Alocasia Dragon is distinguished by rounded leaves and dark veins. Alocasia amazonica - a hybrid of Sandera with smoother notches on the leaves

Seasonal conditions of detention

Alocasia, like all tropical plants, is quite demanding on humidity, heat and lighting. However, growing a luxurious tropical beauty on your own windowsill is not so difficult. It is only necessary to create the necessary conditions for it.

The specifics of seasonal content at home - table

Landing and transplant

Priming

The main rule when choosing a soil is its low density, nutritional value and slightly acidic environment (pH = 5.5–6).

If there is a desire to prepare an earthen mixture for planting or transplanting alocasia on your own, then first of all pay attention to the age of the plant. For small young bushes, the following mixture will perfectly provide proper nutrition:

• leaf ground - 4 parts;
• coniferous land - 4 parts;
• peat - 4 parts;
• coarse sand or perlite - 1 part;
• crushed sphagnum moss - 1 part.

For alocasia older than 3 years, especially large species, this mixture must be enriched with humus (1 part). However, it must be thoroughly mixed with the ground.

The easiest and hassle-free option for selecting soil is to purchase it in a store. The ready-made composition for decorative and deciduous plants takes into account all the needs of alocasia and ensures its full development.

Tip: If you use hard water for watering, then more acidic soils are suitable for azaleas or hydrangeas. They contain the negative effects of hard water.

Pot

Alocasia is a rather massive and heavy plant. Therefore, for stability and ensuring sufficient nutrition of the rhizome, it is advisable to choose deep pots with drainage holes. The material is a matter of taste and the possibilities of the grower. Of course, in a heavy ceramic pot, alocasia will be more stable, but a plastic one is also quite suitable.

Photo gallery: pot options for alocasia

Even an old pot can be transformed Reliable and aesthetic ceramic pot - the right choice for alocasia Plenty of drainage holes for good airflow

If there are no drainage holes in the pot, they are easy to make with a hot nail or screwdriver.

Drainage

Well-drained soil is the key to the health and beauty of alocasia. Excellent air exchange for the rhizome will ensure the presence of a drainage layer in the lower part of the pot, which occupies at least 1/4 of the total volume. Expanded clay, pebbles, crushed stone of fine fraction, broken majolica can serve as traditional materials for drainage.

Transplant process

The most intensive growth is typical for young plants. Therefore, they need an annual transplant. It is advisable to carry it out in early spring, before the start of the growing season. Adult alocasias do not grow as actively - they should not be disturbed every year. It is enough to change the pot to a larger one and add fresh soil every 3 years.

The transplant process itself is quite simple and consists of sequential operations:

1. Selection of a pot, the diameter of which is 2-4 cm larger than the previous one.
2. Falling asleep a layer of drainage to the bottom of the pot.
3. Backfilling over the drainage of the new soil mixture.
4. Extraction of alocasia from the previous pot.
5. Light shaking of crumbling earth.
6. Installing a rhizome with soil in the middle of the prepared pot.
7. Gradual pouring of a new substrate around the rhizome, followed by compaction.
8. Consolidation of the soil mixture with abundant watering.
9. Removal of water collected in the pan (approximately 1.5–2 hours after watering).

If the plant has long required a transplant, and its root system holds the ground very tightly, you can apply the transshipment process with a different sequence of actions.

In this case, it may be difficult to extract the plant from the old pot, since the roots practically grow into it. In this case, it is wise to use a wooden stick or pencil.

How to transplant a plant by transshipment - video

Care specifics

How to water a plant

Alocasia, as a native of the rainforest, is very moisture-loving. In the warm season, it requires abundant watering every other day. But the accumulation of water in the pan should not be allowed in any case. Alocasia also responds positively to leaf moisture. Daily spraying will only benefit her.

In winter, watering should be reduced. The amount of water needed by the plant is directly proportional to the readings of the thermometer. The frequency of watering is equal to the drying time of the surface of the substrate to a depth of 1 cm. In dry climates, spraying should be continued. However, it is advisable to do this only in the morning hours of sunny days.

Important! The best effect is given by watering with softened (settled or boiled) water. For winter watering, water heated to 20 degrees is needed. Fatal for alocasia can be not only the drying of the soil, but also its jamming.

top dressing

The optimal mode of fertilizing alocasia with organic or complex mineral fertilizers is evenly, with an interval of 14–15 days during the time of active growth (April - September). The plant gratefully perceives complex fertilizers intended for decorative leafy plants.

Important! The dosage of fertilizers is taken half as much as indicated by the manufacturer.

In winter, fertilizing should be reduced to 1 time per month.

Bloom

Not everyone had to see the flowering of alocasia, because it blooms extremely rarely. At the same time, it begins to intensively shed its beautiful leaves. To prevent this process, you can go in two ways:

• cut off the resulting peduncle, preventing the flower from opening, and sprinkle the cut with coal powder;
• let alocasia bloom by feeding it with fertilizers for flowering plants.

The faded peduncle must be cut off so as not to additionally deplete the plant with the ripening of berries.

rest period

This period in alocasia is weakly expressed. It's just that with the onset of cold weather and a decrease in daylight hours, it grows leaves less intensively. The task of the grower during this period is to moderate watering and fertilizing.

What to do if there are problems with the plant?

Alocasia is quite finicky and can "show character" under inappropriate conditions of detention. To preserve the beauty of the plant, it is necessary to respond correctly and in a timely manner to a signal about a problem that has arisen, knowing why this or that phenomenon occurs. Let's decipher the most common of them in the table.

Alocasia care problems - table

The manifestation of errors in the care of alocasia - photo gallery

Depleted alocasia sheds leaves The result of improper watering and fertilization is the wilting of alocasia Improper conditions of detention harm the decorativeness of the plant The result of hypothermia and improper watering is yellowing of the leaf plate

Diseases and pests

Control of diseases and pests of alocasia - table

Signs of infection and pests in the photo

How to deal with spider mites - video

reproduction

Alocasia reproduces mainly vegetatively. Seed propagation is very complicated due to rare flowering and the loss of decorativeness by the plant when the fruit ripens. In addition, the seeds have low germination. Another difficulty is that the varietal characteristics of variegated specimens are not preserved when propagated by seeds. It is possible to grow a full-fledged plant in this way only after a year.

The simplest and most effective methods of propagating alocasia are rhizome division, tuber transplanting and cuttings. It is possible to grow young alocasia in such ways in 1-2 months.

Division of the rhizome

Adult alocasia can form daughter plants with independent roots. During the spring transplant, it is advisable to seat them. To do this, you need to perform a number of simple operations:

1. Carefully remove the entire earthen ball from the pot.
2. Wash the earth from the rhizome.
3. Carefully separate the shoots with a sharp sterilized knife.
4. Sprinkle cuts with charcoal powder.
5. Plant the plants in suitable pots with drainage and a light substrate.

Seedling of tubers

Another simple and effective way to propagate alocasia is to separate the nodules during transplantation. This process is as follows:

How to propagate alocasia with nodules - video

Using cuttings

This method is less popular. It is used mainly in case of damage to the plant. Its essence boils down to the following basic operations:

Attention! Alocasia juice is very poisonous - you can only transplant a plant with gloves.