Treatment of shrubs and trees from pests. Spring processing of fruit trees and shrubs in early spring

Foreword

In order to enjoy juicy healthy apples or other fruits in summer or autumn, it is necessary to start processing garden trees and shrubs from spring, to do sanitary pruning.

Pre-spring work in the garden

Now is the time to shake off the snow from the trees. It is wet, heavy and may well break branches. Nature wakes up after winter. Therefore, in early spring it is necessary to carry out a certain set of activities on the site.

Carefully inspect the branches of fruit trees for pests that have overwintered on them. Now is the time to think about pruning broken and dry branches, so take it with you. You can also form a crown of trees.

But the main work is still spraying trees. As soon as the average air temperature reaches + 5 ° C, and the buds have not yet had time to bloom, it is necessary to fight diseases and feed the trees.

Video: Cleaning fruit trees from snow

Protecting trees from spring burns and pest control

In early spring, the weather is quite unstable. It can be high during the daytime and drop sharply at night. Under these conditions, the bark on the trees warms up unevenly. Suppose, on a warm March day, the temperature of the trunk in the sun will be 12 degrees more than on the shaded side. Lime whitewashing of the trunk helps to get rid of such a difference.

In this case, the readings will differ only within 3 or 5 degrees. Overheating of the bark followed by freezing can cause early spring burns. And they will lead to the death of the tree, especially if it is a young seedling. It is necessary to restore the whitewash if it was broken during the winter period.

When pruning garden trees in early spring, you need to get rid of damaged branches. They should not be left under a tree, because they are probably infected with: cytosporosis, scale insects, bark beetle larvae, black cancer or other pests and diseases.

Simultaneously with this work, it is required to treat existing wounds on trunks and branches. Damage is cleaned, leveled with a knife until living tissue appears, then disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, in a ratio of 10 g per 1 liter of water, and carefully cover this area with garden pitch.
How to spray trees in early spring

The modern industry offers gardeners many different products for spraying trees at the very beginning of spring. For these purposes, apply:

  • copper sulfate;
  • mineral oil emulsion;
  • Bordeaux liquid;
  • emulsion "Preparation-30";
  • nitrofen and others.

The cheapest drug is copper sulfate. But do not look at its low cost, it is quite effective, so most gardeners prefer it. It is used for scab, fruit rot, leaf curl, black cancer, brown leaf spot and other diseases.

Mineral oil emulsions are liquid mixtures of mineral oil with water and an emulsifier. The composition of the emulsifier usually contains:

  • soap;
  • glue or kaolin;
  • iron or copper sulfate.

Emulsions fight pests such as aphids, scale insects, help destroy the eggs of the codling moth, suckers and other insects. They should be applied in early spring, until the buds open. In summer, at temperatures over 35℃, the emulsion can cause severe burns on the tree.

Bordeaux liquid is an opaque sky-blue solution. Gardeners have been using this liquid for more than a hundred years in the fight against garden pests. It is recommended to use it until the buds open. The mixture destroys scab and fungal diseases of trees or shrubs. It is also used as a disinfectant for fruit tree wounds. It is not recommended to store it, it must be used immediately after preparation.

The emulsion "Preparat-30" is an oil-oil emulsion of white or light gray color. It is packaged in 2-liter jars and has a shelf life of 2 years. In the spring, all fruit and berry crops can be treated with an emulsion from wintering herds of scale insects, spider mites, leafworms, suckers, moths and other pests. And in the summer, spray trees and ornamental shrubs from tramps of the first and second generation of scale insects

Nitrofen is a drug against wintering stages of pests and diseases. This paste is brown in color, packaged in tin or glass jars or polymer bottles. The shelf life of nitrofen is 2 years. It behaves well as a disinfectant for wounds on fruit trees.

Video: Spraying trees and shrubs in early spring

Treatment of trees with copper sulphate

Before spraying, it is first necessary to clean the trunk of lichens with a brush. When processing trees, you can use a hand pump; they are sold in special stores for the garden. But it is desirable to have an automated sprayer. It is much more convenient and easier to work with. For those gardeners who already have mature trees, you need to have one that can be extended in various ways. Most likely, you will have to tie it to a stick so that you can reach even the highest branches or use special telescopic rods.

It is worth worrying about your own safety. Robe, gloves, headwear and goggles. These items will protect you from getting the solution on bare areas of your body. A respirator will not allow vapors of the solution to enter the upper respiratory tract.

Before processing begins, the solution must be stirred. This is done as follows: 100 g of copper sulfate is diluted in a bucket of water. In cold water, vitriol dissolves worse. Therefore, you can dilute it at home in hot water, for example, in a three-liter jar, and then pour the contents into a bucket.

The solution must be poured into the sprayer through a funnel and several layers of gauze. Content filtering is a must. This is done so that the sprayer nozzle and hose cannot become clogged with undissolved particles. Now you should pump air into the balloon, hang it on your shoulder and go.

This article describes the process of treating trees with copper sulphate. But you can use any means that you like best or have already bought. Each package contains detailed instructions on how to use it.

How to properly spray trees

Wood processing must be carried out carefully from all sides. The jet must be directed from the edge to its central part. It is best to do this alternately with each large branch. Only in this case it is possible to achieve the maximum effect.

Don't forget to spray the soil around the tree. If last year's leaves are still on it, they will rot much faster. Also, with the help of the solution, spores of harmful fungi or the pests themselves will be destroyed. The remaining solution can be used on nearby shrubs, vines or other plants.

After you process the trees, you must carefully rinse the machine with water. To do this, fill the sprayer with clean water and drive it away. In this case, the nozzles and hoses will not be clogged with the remaining dried particles of the solution. Change your clothes and be sure to wash your hands and face with soap.

Video: Spraying trees in spring

What is needed for spraying trees and shrubs

Also, in early spring, trees can be treated with combined means. They will help to cope with several types of pests at once, which will give you the opportunity to avoid several cycles of spraying trees and at the same time fertilize the plant. An example is urea. You can learn about this from our other materials.

In order for the work on spraying trees to be carried out efficiently and have good efficiency, it is necessary to have all the necessary tools and devices.

Treating the garden from pests and diseases in the fall is extremely important.

There are several reasons for this:

  • autumn gardening is a good preventive procedure, reducing the number of wintering pathogens;
  • autumn heat and humid air stimulate the reproduction of microbes and bacteria. at this time they penetrate the sap flow system and spread throughout the tree;
  • autumn processing of the garden is recommended at the beginning of leaf fall, and during this period the main work has already been completed, the gardener has more free time;
  • there is still a lot of time before the fruit ripens and you can apply more concentrated and effective mixtures;
  • special attention should be paid to the treatment of young trees. Their immune system is not yet strong and untreated trees may not survive until spring;
  • autumn treatment with increased concentrations of drugs destroys most of the insects settled for the winter.

Processing time

The optimal time for autumn processing it could be considered beginning of leaf fall.

At this time, the leaves have already turned yellow, but still remained on the tree and it is convenient to process them. Even high concentrations of solutions will not harm the tree - there is no longer any need for leaves.

Under the trees, the soil is not yet covered with fallen leaves and it also needs to be treated with a prepared pesticide. Thus, we will destroy the pests that have gone to winter in the soil and are waiting for warming from the foliage.

Tree preparation

Beginning in mid-autumn, trees begin to prepare for winter. You can increase the winter hardiness of trees by adding phosphorus and.

The bases of the skeletal branches and the trunk of the tree are cleaned of dead bark and pests hiding in its cracks. At the same time, the trunks and bases of the branches are covered with a protective layer of garden whitewash. The trunks of young trees are tied with roofing material, covering material or nylon tights.

How to spray fruit trees?

For spraying the garden in the autumn, you can use:

  • inkstone;
  • carbamide or urea;
  • drug 30B;
  • diesel fuel;
  • bischal;
  • soap-copper emulsion.

inkstone


inkstone

Trees are treated with a solution of iron sulphate either before the start of the growing season, or with the onset of leaf fall. Dissolved in water, this powder helps fight diseases of pome and stone fruit trees, and berry bushes. The action of iron sulphate is detrimental to moniliosis, spotting, and scab.

For processing the garden, a 5-7% solution of the substance is used. To prepare the working fluid, you must:

  • 500-700 g of powder is dissolved in a small amount of warm water;
  • after complete dissolution, the volume of liquid is adjusted to 10 l;
  • strained mixture is poured into a sprayer;
  • set up a very fine spray;
  • evenly cover the leaves and branches with a solution, it’s not scary if some of the liquid gets on the ground. It also needs to be sprayed.

blue vitriol


blue vitriol

Wasp copper sulfate or copper sulfate is a recognized fungicide that helps in the fight against spotting, rot, scab, coccomycosis, lichens.

The working solution of copper sulphate for garden treatment should have a concentration of 3-5%. It is prepared in the same way as iron sulphate, only 300-500 g of powder is taken for the same amount of water. Prepare and use in the same way.

Urea or urea

The use of urea or urea for fall gardening involves tilling the trees and the soil underneath. The term for such processing is the beginning of leaf fall. A strong solution of urea is able to burn out all wintering forms of pests and diseases.


Urea

The procedure for processing trees:

  • 700 g of urea or carbamide are dissolved in 10 liters of water;
  • process unfallen leaves and tree trunks;
  • the trunk circle is treated with the same tool.

It is necessary to use such a liquid for autumn garden processing as late as possible. nitrogen, the loading dose of which is contained in the solution, can cause the growth of new shoots. In the spring, it is not necessary to apply nitrogen fertilizers under trees treated with urea.

Preparation 30v

Insect-acaricide "Preparation 30V" destroys wintering pests in the garden and on berry bushes: scale insects, whiteflies, leafworms, aphids, mites, moths.


Preparation 30V

The drug disrupts the air and water balance of insects, leading them to death. Pests cannot adapt to the action of the drug, it can be used annually. The advantages of the product include environmental safety, high efficiency, excellent adhesion, the ability to use the entire season from spring to autumn. The drug has a contact effect, it must be applied without leaving untreated areas.

The drug is very easy to breed. It is simply dissolved in water and used within the next 2 hours after dilution.

Treatments are carried out at an outdoor temperature above +4°C.

The concentration of the solution for the treatment of trees and shrubs is 3-4%.

The protective effect of the drug lasts from 5 to 10 days. You can harvest after processing after 20 days.

Diesel fuel or diesel fuel (DT)

diesel fuel

Solar oil is an oily liquid. After treating the tree with such a liquid, an oil film is formed on the surface of the bark, which destroys pests, clogging their respiratory openings.

Diesel fuel, being the result of oil refining, is not considered an environmentally friendly substance, and therefore it is dangerous to use it in the spring. It is best to use such a remedy in the fall, by the time of harvest it will completely disintegrate and will not remain in ripened fruits.

Successful recipes for the use of diesel fuel:

  • 1 part of ferrous sulfate is dissolved in 10 parts of water;
  • add 10 parts of lime milk 10% concentration;
  • 20 parts of diesel fuel are added to the resulting mixture;
  • the resulting mixture is used to process plantings after leaf fall.

Another successful recipe:

  • 5 parts of clay are dissolved in 5 parts of water;
  • 20 parts of diesel fuel are added to the resulting mixture;
  • plantings are treated with the resulting emulsion.

Another solution that is effective in pest control:

  • grind 1 part of laundry soap;
  • the chips are dissolved in 9 parts of water;
  • 10 parts of diesel fuel are added to the resulting solution;
  • we process the garden with the resulting emulsion.

Using diesel fuel, you need to remember that its density and water are very different, and you won’t be able to get a complete solution. When mixing water and diesel fuel, an emulsion is formed, which is very quickly divided into two fractions. Keeping this in mind, when working with such a mixture, you need to periodically shake the solution.

Bordeaux liquid

Bordeaux mixture

Bordeaux liquid is a mixture of copper sulfate and lime in a 1: 1 ratio. This mixture destroys foci of diseases (moniliosis, spotting, rot and fungal diseases, scab), and also destroys wintering forms of insects.

To prepare Bordeaux liquid, you will need lime, blue vitriol, water, any non-metallic utensils and litmus paper:

  • in a non-metallic container, 1 kg of copper sulfate is diluted in a small amount of hot water and brought to 50 liters;
  • in another container, 1 kg of quicklime is quenched and the solution is diluted to 50 liters, filtered;
  • immediately before use, both solutions are combined - a solution of copper sulphate is added to the milk of lime (but not vice versa).
  • the resulting mixture is checked with litmus paper - the reaction of the solution should be neutral;
  • for better adhesion of the solution per 100 liters of liquid, add 100 g of sugar or 5 cups of paste;
  • Ready mixture can be purchased at a garden store.

Bordeaux mixture should be used in warm, dry, calm weather. Up to 10 liters are used per tree.

Bishal


Bischofite (Bishal)

Autumn and early spring processing of fruit trees can be carried out using the Bishal preparation. This is a solution of the natural remedy bischofite. It contains almost all microelements necessary for plants.

Depending on the concentration, trees can be treated with this solution before bud break or before leaf fall, a garden can be cultivated on a green leaf, and can be used to soak seeds.

Autumn treatment of the garden with a solution of bishali will destroy pests prepared for wintering, bacterial, viral and fungal infections.

For autumn processing, bischal is bred in a ratio of 1:10.

Bishal, like urea, burns out all the infection that remains in the cracks of the bark, but unlike urea, it contains many essential trace elements.

The advantages of bishali include the absence of a waiting period after processing the garden.

Soap copper emulsion

Another tool for autumn garden processing is a soap-copper emulsion. The recipe for its preparation is very simple:

  • 10 g of copper sulfate are dissolved in 0.5 l of water;
  • separately, 100 g of planed laundry soap is diluted in warm water;
  • a solution of soap is added to the solution of copper sulfate, the volume of the mixture is adjusted to 10 l;
  • if the water is hard (flakes appear in the solution), you can add 50 g of soda ash.

With a high number of wintering pests or a strong infection with an infection, the doses of soap and copper sulfate are increased by 2-3 times.

A healthy garden is a joy for a gardener. But so that the trees are not afraid of diseases and dangerous insects, they need to be sprayed on time. The first work in the garden begins in March. Processing trees in the spring allows you to destroy diseases and pests, as well as prevent their appearance, because it is at this time that many insects wake up and diseases become more active.

In the spring, the processing of fruit trees, as well as berry trees, is carried out several times. This is usually done in early spring, before flowers appear and after flowering. In all these manipulations, you can "get lost", especially if there has never been a practice of gardening. Below is a detailed table that indicates when, why and how to process trees in the spring.

Period Work Medications (optional)
Early spring Whitewash
  • lime mortar
  • ready-made compositions for whitewashing fruit trees
Preventive spraying against pests that overwinter on trees
  • diesel fuel
Before bud break Spraying against fungal diseases
  • Bordeaux mixture
  • blue vitriol
  • inkstone
  • urea
Prevention against pest larvae
  • karbofos
  • broad spectrum insecticides
During flowering Spraying to increase immunity against fungi
  • Bordeaux liquid
  • blue vitriol
Treatment for ticks, weevils
  • anabasine
  • karbofos
After flowering Prevention from rot
  • broad-spectrum combination drugs
Spraying against pests

As you can see, there is a lot of work on processing trees in the spring. But they are necessary to maintain immunity and overall health of horticultural crops.

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The first activities in the garden are in March, before the buds begin to bloom on the trees. It is necessary to remove the insulation, clean the territory, carry out sanitary pruning. At the same time, the processing of trees in the spring from pests begins. Insects, depending on the species, can settle on trees at different times of the year, so you can’t do spraying once a year in the hope of not encountering them again. Prevention and additional work will be required throughout the warm season, but in different cases they use different methods of control.

Whitewashing trees with lime allows them to be protected from various pests that can settle and live in the bark. Before whitewashing, the bark must be cleaned, and then whitewashed. In this way, it is possible to destroy the habitats of insects and prevent their re-settlement in the bark.

Interesting!

Whitewashing trees also protects the trunk from sunburn on hot days.

Before the buds open on the trees, measures must be taken to combat the larvae, which become active during this period. From them, you can use effective broad-spectrum insecticides: Karbofos, Aktellik, Decis Profi, Prokleim, as well as Bordeaux Liquid, Urea.

Approximately before the appearance of buds, or when they appear en masse on a tree, crops are often subjected to a mass attack by the codling moth. Caterpillars are especially dangerous for apple trees! So before flowering, it is necessary to carry out work to destroy them. For this, you can use the preparations Fitoverm, Atom, Zolon, Ivanhoe, Sirocco, Decis, Alatar, Iskra M, Binom, Lepidocid, Ditoks or "Bordeaux liquid", "Urea".

Interesting!

Gardeners consider spraying diesel fuel in early spring to be effective. It covers the surface with a thin film, blocking the access of oxygen to pests.

During the flowering period of trees, ticks wake up. So at this time it does not hurt to protect fruit trees, as well as berry trees, from the effects of a dangerous insect. If this moment is missed, then ticks will settle on each tree and this will inevitably affect the crop. From ticks, Actellik, Bi-58 New, Bona Forte, Karate, Fitoverm are often used.

After flowering, trees are carefully inspected for pests. If any are noticed, re-processing is carried out, if not, then all subsequent work can be postponed until the summer.

Even one disease, if left untreated, can lead to the complete destruction of the garden. Trees are able to fight fungi and viruses for a long time, but if they are not helped, sooner or later the disease will win. So the treatment of fruit trees in the spring from diseases begins even before bud break.

  • Seed crops are treated before bud break from black cancer, scab, actracnose and cytosporosis.
  • Stone fruit trees can be sprayed against clasterosporiasis, moniliosis, coccomycosis and cytosporosis.

Both for stone fruit and pome trees, fungicides such as "Horus", "Skor" are used before bud break. You can also apply "Iron vitriol", "Copper vitriol", "Bordeaux liquid".

In order not to treat pests and diseases separately, you can mix the funds in one container, and spray the trees with the resulting composition. However, this is only possible if the drugs are compatible! So before buying, you should consult with the seller - you can interfere with them or not.

Before flowering, and sometimes during, spraying is carried out from scab and spotting, coccomycosis, moniliosis, clasterosporiasis. Although most of these diseases have already been treated, it is necessary to repeat the treatment in order to increase the resistance of the plants. You can use drugs for this: "Strobi", "Skor", "Horus", "Raek", "Fitolavin", "Bordeaux mixture", "Polyram DF".

When the flowers crumble and ovaries appear in their place, you will need to do one more, final treatment for putrefactive diseases. Here you can recommend Alirin-B, Diskor, Topaz, Gamair, Gliocladin, Fitolavin or Urea. This concludes the spring treatment of trees against pests and diseases. But this does not mean that the work in the garden is over at all. In the summer, you should carefully monitor the crops in order to protect them in time from summer ailments and insects.

Some preparations in the garden are used more often than others. They are highly effective and very well help both pests and diseases. Every novice gardener is obliged to know about these preparations and use them if necessary. Among such drugs, Bordeaux liquid, urea, copper and iron vitriol are distinguished.

Bordeaux liquid is one of the most famous and common means used for trees. It consists of copper sulfate and lime. Its color is always blue, so it's hard to confuse it with anything. For processing, a 3% solution is used.

Bordeaux liquid is considered a strong fungicide. It can cope with fungal diseases, spotting and is effective against pests, due to the fact that it contains lime. It is suitable for processing any fruit and berry crops.

Iron vitriol is the second most popular drug. It is most often used in the processing of plums, pears, cherries, apple trees. It mainly allows you to get rid of all kinds of diseases that are already on the tree or can only hit it.

Iron vitriol is not only a protective agent. During use, it also saturates crops with iron, which is necessary for many fruit and berry fruits for normal development and fruiting.

When using ferrous sulfate to treat trees in the spring, you need to know that they work with this tool only before the buds on the trees bloom! A 3% solution is used - this will be more than enough for an adult culture.

Treatment of trees with copper sulphate

Copper sulfate in its action is similar to Bordeaux liquid, but it does not help against pests. In order for the drug to be of great benefit, some kind of broad-spectrum insecticide is usually added to it. If such a product was not found on sale, you can simply alternate treatment with copper sulphate with spraying with insecticides - this will also be effective.

By itself, copper sulfate copes with curliness, coccomycosis, moniliosis, phyllosticosis, clasterosporosis, scab and other diseases. They are not only allowed, but even recommended to process apples, pears and plums in the first place.

But copper sulphate also has one big drawback - toxicity. Protective suits and gloves are used while working with him. It is important to exclude its entry into a reservoir, fountain, tank with water from which animals, people, fish drink. The working solution is prepared from 100 g of copper sulfate and 10 liters of water. A stronger concentration for trees can be dangerous.

Treatment of trees with urea

Carbamide or urea is a powerful tool against the extermination of a wide variety of pests on fruit and berry trees. Also, this remedy can protect trees from putrefactive diseases. Processing trees in the spring involves the use of a solution prepared from 500-700 g of urea per 10 liters of water.

Treatment of trees with urea allows you to fight insects, and also saturates plants with nitrogen, activating the process of awakening and growth.

Gardeners often mix urea with blue vitriol. On average, 50 g of copper sulfate and a bucket of warm water are taken for 600 g of urea. This mixture allows you to get rid of pests and diseases on the tree, and also slows down its development by 1-2 weeks. A similar method is often used for those crops that bloom during a return frost. If the treatment is carried out in time, flowering will occur after the return frosts and the buds will not freeze.

The drug is not dangerous, at least for humans, so serious protective measures are not required if urea was not interfered with with anything. A treatment agent is being prepared immediately before the procedure! A concentrated solution is used only in early spring, and after flowering it is weak, because an abundance of urea can leave burns on the leaves.

Spring is coming, and gardeners have more work to do, and with the onset of heat, changes in the garden are happening rapidly. Buds are already beginning to swell on plants that were still sleeping yesterday, everything literally comes to life before our eyes. After a long winter, this can not but rejoice. But along with the garden, its problems come to life - pests and pathogens.

Weevils, flower beetles, aphids, clasterosporiasis, maniliasis, scab, powdery mildew - you can list for a long time, yes, I think you know them yourself. How to make sure that there are no uninvited guests in the garden, or at least there are fewer?

There are different ways to achieve this goal, but perhaps the simplest and most popular is spraying the garden with effective chemicals. Of course, I know about the harm that these products can cause to the environment, animals and us, but still ... How many are ready to give them up? Here, in my opinion, the situation here is approximately the same as with mineral fertilizers. You can argue about this for a long time, but for many it is simple and effective, the main thing is to use it “wisely”. So, when and how to spray in the spring to be "wise"?

When to start spraying the garden from pests and diseases?

The first thing to understand is that you are unlikely to solve the problem with a one-time spray. After all, all the "problems" wake up not only in your garden, but also in the surrounding area. Get rid of yourself for a short time, but the breeze will bring a new portion of both pests and diseases. Therefore, in the spring it is worth spraying 4 times.

Second. The fight should begin immediately with the onset of the first warm days (in different regions this is different and it makes no sense to name specific dates). If you miss the first moment, and all this "evil spirits" begin to spread and spread around the garden, then it will be more difficult to deal with it. And now specifically.

The first spring spraying is the most important

In my opinion, the first spraying of the garden is the most important and must be done. It is carried out in early spring before the buds begin to swell on plants at average daily temperatures of about +4. At this moment, the tree is still sleeping in the same way as overwintered pests and disease spores sleep. And you can use preparations of a fairly strong concentration, without fear of damaging the plants.

It’s just worth taking a closer look at different plants, not all of them are in the same phase. Let's say, if the apple tree is still sleeping, then the buds are already swollen on the blackcurrant and strong solutions can harm it, simply burn it. Therefore, we approach the first spraying very carefully.

What to use? Classical, a hundred years already popular solution - "Bordeaux mixture". This is a mixture of two aqueous solutions of lime and copper sulfate. Someone cooks it on their own (and you need to do it right), someone buys a ready-made cooking kit (“Bordeaux mixture”) in a garden store. For the first spring spraying, it is worth using 3% Bordeaux mixture.

You can use iron sulfate by diluting it in water (300-500 grams per 10 liters). What does concentration depend on? From the degree of infection of your garden. With a weak infection, 300 grams per bucket of water is enough, with a clearly sick garden, it is better to dissolve 500 grams.

Some gardeners use the good old Nitrofen for the first spring spraying. Doing this, in my opinion, is not worth it. He is “kind” in the sense of his effectiveness, but not at all “kind” to our health.

Much more interesting is the recently popular concentrated solution of urea (urea). Take about 700 grams of urea per 10 liters of water. You can add 50 grams of copper sulfate. Such a solution effectively fights both overwintered insect pests and spores of many diseases.

This solution has two additional "bonuses". On the one hand, it slightly slows down the growing season (7-10 days), which can protect flowers from spring frosts. And on the other hand, it is a nitrogen fertilizer, which is exactly what our plants need in spring. These are the properties that seem to contradict each other, and, nevertheless, working properties.

There is a good option - "Preparation 30-in". It is considered safe for us and the environment, because it simply creates a film on the surface of the sprayed plant, and pests do not have the opportunity to "breathe". But it is worth remembering that he fights with insect pests, but not with diseases. And it is worth using it in those gardens that suffer from pests.

There are other drugs ... When choosing one or another, the main criterion is whether it is suitable for early spring and processing at low temperatures (let me remind you +4 degrees).

The second spraying of the garden in spring - "on a green cone"

The second spray is called "green cone spray". Already from the name it is clear that it is carried out after the buds of the plant begin to develop and move forward in the form of green, still tightly folded cones. Expanding buds become vulnerable to strong solutions, in fact, as well as surviving and revived pests and diseases.

What to use? You can use the same Bordeaux liquid, but in a much lower concentration - 1%. But, in my opinion, it is much more efficient to use modern preparations, and to prepare the so-called “tank mixtures” from them. This means that in one bucket of water, you can mix two different drugs: one for disease control and the other for pest control.

For example, you can mix "Horus" (from scab, powdery mildew, moniliosis) and "Aktara" or "Decis" (insecticides). There are other options, the main thing is to carefully study the instructions, whether they are suitable for mixing with other drugs and whether there are any restrictions on air temperature. The use of drugs in the form of tank mixtures can reduce the number of treatments. Instead of a separate fight (first with pests, and then with diseases), you carry out one complex treatment. I hope you do less damage to the environment.

The third spraying - "on a rose bud"

The third spraying is carried out at the time of the promotion of flower buds (they are still closed). Since most of the trees in our gardens have pink buds, this spraying is called "pink bud". I won't talk about it for a long time. You can use the same tank mixtures of fungicides and insecticides.

The only remark - when buying this or that drug, pay attention not only to its name, but also to the active substance. Often, different manufacturers under different names hide the same thing. And it is desirable to alternate drugs so that the active substance is different, so that there is no addictive effect.

The fourth spring spraying of the garden - after flowering

The fourth spraying of the garden is also carried out with tank mixtures immediately after the end of flowering.

Now a few, in my opinion, important remarks:

In order for spring spraying to have a result, they must be done on time, focusing not on reference books, Internet resources or the advice of video bloggers, but solely on weather conditions and the phases of plant development in your garden.

It is necessary to treat the plant with this or that solution completely from the top of the head to the ground, and, by the way, it does not hurt to sprinkle the near-stem circle. If you skip something or just be lazy, it can negate all your work, and the disease will flare up again (or the pest).

If the first spraying often allows you to treat all the plants in the garden at the same time (they are all sleeping), then a strong differentiation in development begins. It is quite possible that, when processing a tree “on a rosebud”, there will already be a flowering tree nearby, which means that it is no longer possible to process it. Be careful.

Try to agree with the neighbors around you about simultaneous treatments, so the effect will be more complete.

Try to find and use products that are harmless to insect pollinators and animals, and there are such.

Do not forget that even if the package says that the drug is harmless, you should take care to protect your skin, eyes and respiratory organs. My firm belief is that if a drug kills an insect, then it is not harmless to us either. Usually it is recommended to use glasses and respirators, which, in my opinion, is uncomfortable. I prefer transparent shields-masks, of course, with a headgear and gloves included.

Of course, anything can happen and perhaps spraying will be needed both in summer and autumn, but it is these first four that, in my opinion, are decisive and determine the health of your garden this season.

The garden is gradually waking up after a long winter hibernation, the buds are about to begin to bloom. Now, in spring, fruit trees and shrubs especially need the protection and attention of the gardener. How to process trees and shrubs in early spring, how to help our beloved “plants” in order to cure diseases, protect against pests and adverse climatic conditions, we deal with experienced gardeners of our portal, who have accumulated volumes of useful material on this topic over the years of gardening.

In this article, we will look at:

  1. How to prepare a remedy for spring garden spraying at home;
  2. Calendar of garden treatments in early spring in spring. When to carry out the first treatment;
  3. How to prepare Bordeaux liquid;
  4. How to deal with fungal diseases;

Member of our portal Eleni three grandchildren, so his family attaches great importance to the safety of fruits and berries, and "no chemicals" are used at all. The question of how to spray fruit trees and shrubs in spring does not arise in this family: the treatment of the garden from diseases and pests is done only with safe home remedies.

Home remedies for spraying fruit trees and shrubs:

  1. Infusion of garlic;
  2. Infusion of onion peel.
    Green soap is added to these infusions for better stickiness.

An infusion of onion peels is made as follows: 350 grams of onion peels are poured with two liters of water, brought to a boil and cooled. The resulting solution is diluted in 10 liters of water with 2 tablespoons of green soap (sold in garden stores).

Garlic infusion recipe: 300 grams of whole, unpeeled garlic heads are passed through a meat grinder, poured with water. The mixture is insisted for a day, stirring from time to time, 2 tablespoons of green soap are added, and diluted in 10 liters of water.

It is also popular to treat currant and gooseberry bushes with boiling water (not hot water, but boiling water, from a boiled kettle), which is carried out even before buds open. Try to start processing with this - surprisingly, boiling water is no less effective than special substances.

HelgaFORUMHOUSE User

This is an old way of destroying bud mite clutches and powdery mildew germs.

How to help our beloved "plants", how to process them in order to cure diseases, protect them from pests and adverse climatic conditions? Let's see what experienced gardeners of our portal are doing.

  1. How to prepare a spring spray for the garden at home.
  2. Calendar of processings of fruit plants in the spring.
  3. How to make Bordeaux mixture.
  4. How to deal with mushroom plants.
  5. Why you can not refuse spring garden treatments.

Treatment with home remedies

Member of our portal Eleni three grandchildren, so his family attaches great importance to the safety of fruits and berries, and "no chemicals" are used at all. In early spring, he sprays all his garden bushes and trees with infusions of garlic and onion peel, to which he adds green soap for better stickiness.

An infusion of onion peels is made as follows: 350 grams of onion peels are poured with two liters of water, brought to a boil and cooled. The resulting solution is diluted with 10 liters of water with 2 tablespoons of green soap (sold in garden stores).

Garlic infusion recipe: 300 grams of whole, unpeeled garlic heads are passed through a meat grinder, poured with water. The mixture is insisted for a day, stirring from time to time, add 2 tablespoons of green soap.

Both of these infusions are used for spring spraying of all fruit crops.

It is also popular to treat currant and gooseberry bushes with boiling water (not hot water, but boiling water, from a boiled kettle), which is carried out even before the buds open.

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