Drywall on wooden slats. Wooden frame for drywall - built quickly and easily! Frame for plasterboard made of wood on the wall

There are several ways to create even walls and ceilings in the interior of the house. With one of them, drywall is attached to a wooden frame. It is made from pine or spruce bars, the cross section of which must correspond to future loads. To create a partition with a height of 2.5 - 4.0 meters, a beam of 50 × 60 or 50 × 70 mm is suitable.

Bars for a frame for drywall are made from spruce or pine trees and are carefully dried and processed.

Requirements for lumber used to create the crate

The beam must be carefully checked. It may be faint yellow or light brown in color without black or blue spots. Each part must have the correct geometric dimensions without chips, large cracks and deviations in straightness.

During construction and finishing works, it is recommended to use wood with a moisture content of about 15%. It is impossible to check this on your own, therefore, when selecting the material, you just need to make sure by touching your hand that it is not wet. Before installation, it is advisable to hold the bars in the room where they will be installed for several days.

To protect against biological decay, mold, wood bug and rodents, wood is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can use ready-made mixtures for interior work or prepare a 4% solution of sodium fluoride yourself by stirring it in hot water. The antiseptic is applied to the bars with a brush in several passes and the material is allowed to dry well.

Tools and materials for mounting a wooden frame

A master who begins to mount a wooden frame for drywall should have at hand:

• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• a hammer;
• building level or plumb;
• coated thread;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels, anchors, brackets or anchor plates;
• steel corners or mounting plates.

In the process of creating a partition, in addition to the bars, you will need plasterboard sheets, mineral wool, a primer, putty and finishing materials.

Marking

Before you start making a wooden frame for drywall, you need to determine the plane in which it will be installed and mark the lines of its intersection with the floor, ceiling and walls. At the same time, you need to remember about the thickness of the GKL and take it into account when marking.

The starting point is chosen at the junction line of the ceiling with one of the walls. Having attached a plumb line to it, they find a mark corresponding to it near the floor. Both points are connected by a vertical line. Drywall sheets are made with sufficient precision to be used to determine the right angle. To do this, we apply the GKL at an angle to the mark on the floor with the narrow side close to the wall. Continuing the perpendicular to the opposite wall, we find the next mark. With the help of a plumb line or level, we rise to the ceiling. We connect all four points with straight lines using a coated thread or a pencil with a ruler.

Installation of a wooden frame

The basis of the wooden frame is made up of bars located along its perimeter. They are attached in accordance with the applied markup. The manufacture of the frame begins with a support beam, which is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors, depending on the base material. If there is a doorway in the partition, two beams are taken, diverging from the passage to the walls.

When installing the frame, it must be taken into account that the drywall sheets are fixed so that the joints of the two sheets are in the middle on the bar.

In the same way, the bars are fixed to the ceiling and walls. Then vertical racks are installed in the central part of the frame. Start with the bars framing the doorway. The distance between them should be 3 - 5 cm larger than the outer size of the door frame.

Racks are installed strictly vertically with their ends close to the horizontal support and ceiling bars of the frame. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws using steel corners or mounting plates intended for assembling rafters. They are designed for heavy loads, so they will ensure communication reliability. At the height of the door frame plus 2 cm, the racks are connected with a horizontal jumper.

Between the opening and the walls evenly with a step of 40 - 60 cm put the required number of racks. For large partitions, it will have to be covered with several sheets of plasterboard. Drywall is fixed on wooden slats so that the junction of two sheets falls exactly on the central axis of the bar. Therefore, the installation of racks is carried out taking into account future cutting and installation of plasterboards.

For the same reason, if the ceiling height is greater than the length of the drywall sheet, horizontal bars are fixed at the junction of the first and second rows.

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard sheets and finishing work

Installation of GKL on a wooden frame starts from the bottom corner of the partition or from the doorway. To do this, use wood screws 35 mm. They are installed in increments of up to 250 mm, retreating from the edges by 10 - 15 mm. At the same time, the heads of the self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet material, which is important for high-quality wall decoration.

If necessary, cutting drywall is cut with a construction knife, followed by a break at the place of the cut. The sheets are joined together with factory edges to each other, and the cut edges turn to the walls and ceiling.

After installing the GKL on one side of the partition, its internal space for sound insulation is filled with briquettes of mineral wool, polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. Electrical and information cables are laid, protected from damage by corrugated tubes. Then the back side of the wall is sheathed.

After sheathing the frame with drywall, it must be primed, and then the joints and caps of the self-tapping screws should be well puttied.

The drywall sheets installed in place are treated with a primer. After it dries, all joints and caps of self-tapping screws are covered with a double layer of putty so that an absolutely flat surface is obtained. After two days, it is primed again and wallpaper, ceramic tiles or any other type of fine finish is applied.

Plasterboarding uneven walls and ceilings

If the dimensions of the room allow part of the space to be occupied by drywall, you can quickly and accurately close uneven walls and ceilings with it. For this, a wooden frame is also made, which is attached to building structures.

When sheathing the wall, repeat all the operations described for mounting the jumper, placing the frame close to it. To do this, it is allowed to take bars and slats of a smaller section, since they can additionally be attached with brackets or anchor plates to the wall to be closed.

Some masters assemble the frame on a flat floor, and only then put it in the right place and fix it. All cavities between the bars are filled with heat-insulating materials. Install drywall on the rails, trying to prevent the presence of joints above the door and window openings, since there will be no support vertical racks.

When installing the GKL on the ceiling, the frame bars are attached to the walls strictly horizontally and at the same level. After that, an internal crate is made with fixing it to the extreme bars and to the ceiling slabs. Ceiling plasterboard has a slightly smaller thickness and weight, which makes it easier to install.

Drywall today takes pride of place and is very popular in construction and repair work. Often, partitions are built to redevelop an apartment, and drywall is simply irreplaceable here. The list of advantages is significant: GKL are quite light, the construction speed is high, and the cost is relatively inexpensive. Very often, drywall is installed on a wooden frame.

Plasterboard partitions

Pine species are often used as the material for the manufacture of a wooden frame for the construction of a plasterboard structure. Such structures can be used as a room partition. What features does a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame have?

The starting stage in the construction of the structure is the installation of the strapping. The bars are fastened in the following order: ceiling-half-wall. If there are wooden floors in the room, then it is easy to fix the bars with simple nails. For 6 cm slats, 10 cm nails are recommended. If the walls are made of materials such as concrete or brick, plus a layer of plaster, then it will be a little more difficult to fix. In this case, fastening is carried out with anchors to the ceiling and dowels to the wall and floor.

Fastening is recommended to start from the ceiling, having previously marked the place of the future partition. Once the bars are fixed on the ceiling, you can mark the floor and continue mounting. It is important to make the markup correctly, you can use a level or a laser level.

When marking, you need to make at least 3 marks on the floor: one on each wall and one in the middle, you can do more, they will not be superfluous, especially since they will not be visible. After the floor beam is fixed, you need to check its position relative to the ceiling.

After you are convinced of the accuracy of the fasteners, you can proceed to fastening the timber to the wall. Everything is much easier here: connect the ceiling with the floor vertical strapping bars. Subsequently, it is on the vertical racks that the main load will fall, so it is extremely important to fix it well. It is equally important to observe the distance between the vertical bars - no more than 40 cm.

Before you begin to strengthen the structure, you need to assess how strong the walls are.

If you are dealing with walls made of fragile materials (cellular concrete, drywall, and so on), dowels of the largest size are needed. It is allowed to use both dowel nails and special dowels. A variant of the following fastening is possible: drill holes in the wall, drive wooden plugs into them, into which you can subsequently screw screws or hammer nails.

Another way to attach the strapping: take straight hangers (usually these are used when installing a metal frame) and fasten the bars with them. This option is perfect if the walls are quite strong.

Once the harness is installed, you can proceed to the installation of racks. Typically, the distance between the racks is 60 cm, which is very convenient - subsequently, the GKL of standard width (120 cm) can be fixed on 2 racks, which facilitates the installation of drywall.

The racks are installed using wooden bars, screwed to the rack and strapping with screws. You can mount racks and metal corners.

If the partition has a doorway, then you need to add the number of racks, as well as jumpers horizontally. If it is possible to do without communications in the partition, then this is excellent. If you still need electrical wiring, then the wires should be placed in a protective tube or use a tin box.

Partition wall insulation: the nuances

Sometimes you can’t do without additional insulation in a building, especially if the partition is not decorative. Installation of insulating materials is carried out when plasterboard sheathing is made on one side of the wooden frame. Mineral wool and foam materials are considered the optimal insulation material.

Insulation is quite easy to perform, since the dimensions of the distance between the racks and materials are the same. It remains only to lay the material and fix it. If a rigid material is chosen as insulation, then its fastening must be carried out on the inside of an already lined partition. If cavities are formed during installation, they can be filled with mineral wool. The combination of materials will give a high soundproofing effect.

Often, in the process of facing the second side with plates, a problem arises on the racks in the form of cracks. This is due to the large number of screws. It is easy to avoid such a mistake if the joints of the plates on the walls are made from opposite sides (for example, the 1st side is sheathed on the left, the 2nd on the right).

It is important to remember that a small gap of 1-2 cm must be left between the ceiling and the top of the drywall. The need is that the gypsum in the slab may begin to crumble. The gap will not be noticeable, it is easily closed with a simple plinth.

Extended baffle

There are also extended partitions when the installation of drywall is carried out on a double wooden frame. The advantage of this type of construction is that it is possible to lay communications and even install heating radiators.

The differences in the construction of an extended partition are that the strapping will need to be done from 2 sides, leaving the distance that is necessary for communications. A wooden frame is built according to the same principles as a simple partition. As soon as the sheathing is completed on one side, the necessary communications can be laid. The wires must be in a pipe or box.

If there is a need to install a battery, then it should not be installed in the middle of the structure, but closer to one of the sides. Do not forget about the ventilation holes, then they need to be closed with plastic bars. It must be remembered that if you install a battery, then it is impossible to insulate the partition with foam rubber or foam. Mineral wool will perfectly cope with the task. After laying communications, the installation process looks similar to a simple partition.

Mounting on an uneven wall

Not always the room can differ in perfectly smooth walls. The installation of the frame in this case looks a little different. It’s worth starting with identifying irregularities: the beam is placed on the floor along the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Next comes the markings for future racks at a distance of 60 cm. The next step: the rack bar must be pressed against the wall vertically and at regular intervals mark the position of the butt behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to place the support beam evenly, because vertical bars will be attached to it further. To align the racks, you can take scraps of fiberboard, wood or plywood.

You can do the installation of drywall with your own hands, having an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat should happen. It is important to follow a certain algorithm of actions, there is no need to rush here, because it will not be so easy to correct mistakes later. Before the process, you need to make all the necessary measurements and calculations, stock up on the entire set of material and tools that you need. For example:

• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• hacksaw;
• metal scissors;
• drill;
• level.

But the most basic, perhaps, moment in the construction of a plasterboard partition is the documentation for permission. It is not recommended to start work before you have received all the necessary permits.

Often, a specialized metal “P”-shaped profile is used to build a drywall frame, although in some cases ordinary wooden bars or half-bars are also used.

The frame for drywall is fixed on direct hangers at some distance from the wall of a wooden house. This indent is a measure rather forced than mandatory. This ensures a loose fit of the frame profiles to the wall so that they do not repeat its irregularities.

Marking the frame for drywall

Before starting work, you must first correctly and accurately mark the future location of all drywall frame profiles.

They start marking, as a rule, from above, from the ceiling. First, two horizontal lines are drawn on the ceiling (it is also possible on the floor, but on the ceiling it is more convenient, about which a little further), which will indicate the plane of the future wall and the plane of the future drywall frame. The distance between them is nothing more than the thickness of the drywall sheet itself.

The indentation of the entire structure from the wall is calculated, taking into account the curvature of the walls in a wooden house, the thickness of the selected drywall sheet profile, and a small margin that allows you to lay internal communications, such as an electrician.

This marks the end of the markup, but do not neglect the simplicity of the process. It is on the accuracy of the lines drawn that the evenness of the future frame will depend.

Guide profiles (NP) are screwed to the floor and ceiling with dowel-nails. It is possible directly, but for the purpose of soundproofing, the distance between the profile and the floor plane can be glued with rubberized tape. Although in wooden houses this measure is already redundant.

Then, between the guide profiles, rack profiles (SP) are installed and screwed with self-tapping screws. The intersections of the rack and guide profiles can be additionally strengthened using crabs.

In order to prevent the middle of the entire structure from bending towards the wall under pressure, the rack profiles are additionally supported and fixed on the wall with special brackets.

The distance between the rack profiles can vary. If you do not plan to lay sound and heat insulating materials, then the distance between the profiles will depend on the width of the gypsum board you have chosen. As a rule, this distance is divided in half so that each drywall sheet is attached to the profile along the edges and in the middle.

If additional insulation of the walls of the house is planned, then the width of the insulation should be guided in choosing the distance between the profiles, since it should fit snugly against the profiles from all sides, avoiding voids and, conversely, creases in the edges of the insulation mats.

After installing and fixing all profiles, checking the strength and controlling all structures with a level, the question of how to make a frame for drywall in a wooden house can be considered closed and you can proceed to laying insulation, layers of vapor barrier and sew everything up with sheets of drywall.

The process of mounting rack profiles is fast and without much difficulty, so almost everyone can do it.

© 2014 – 2017, Wooden House. All rights reserved. When copying an article or any of its fragments, a link to the original source is required.

This article provides instructions on how to attach drywall to wood battens and make installing drywall to wood framing quick and easy.

Is it possible to mount drywall on a wooden frame

Cladding of walls and ceilings of internal premises is a fast, inexpensive and fairly labor-intensive modern method of finishing the interiors of civil and public buildings.

There are several options for plasterboard sheathing (GKL):

Direct installation, it can be done with a gypsum mortar or special adhesive mastics, if the walls and ceilings have an even prepared base. A wooden or metal frame for drywall should be used if the work surface has distortions, severe waviness, bumpiness and other irregularities

As a frame structure, both profiles made of galvanized metal sheet and wooden elements - a rail, a bar, a board can serve. A possible frame for drywall made of wood may be preferable to a metal profile, since installing drywall with your own hands on a wooden frame is not particularly difficult and does not require special skills. Wood is easy to process - drilled, sawn.

Is it possible to mount drywall on a wooden frame? Yes, and besides, this allows you to save on finishing, refusing to purchase quite expensive metal profiles. However, a drywall frame made of wood is not recommended when the room has high humidity - in bathrooms, boiler rooms, showers and bathrooms.

Do-it-yourself wooden frame for drywall

How to make a wooden frame for drywall?

If a partition is sheathed, it is usually a three-layer structure made of edged boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm. The outer layers are formed from vertical boards, and the inner layer from horizontal ones. If the installation of the partition is done neatly and competently, without distortions, then such a partition actually forms a frame for plasterboard from boards, to which, without any preparation, using self-tapping screws, you can fasten panels from plasterboard.

The use of a board for the manufacture of frame structures in other cases is impractical, as this will lead to an overrun of the material and an increase in the cost and labor intensity of the work. For facing concrete, brick, logs, as well as old warped walls and ceilings, it is better to use a frame made of timber for drywall.

Many are interested in whether drywall can be mounted on wooden slats? Since the difference between wood products (such as a bar and a rail) in relation to the installation of drywall is insignificant, the installation of drywall on wooden slats and the installation of drywall on bars practically do not differ from each other.

Fastening drywall to the wall on a wooden frame

Can drywall be fixed to wooden blocks if they are simply fixed to the walls or ceiling? This option is possible, but it is better to make a frame for drywall from wooden blocks. In how to fix the beam to drywall, a small instruction for installing drywall on a wooden frame from a beam will help.

For drywall, panels with the following dimensions are most widely used: 1200 mm wide and 2500 mm long. At the same time, the installation of panels on a frame structure made of wood of different types and characteristics (moisture resistant, hardened, etc.) has the same scope of work.

Procurement of the necessary materials, fixtures and tools

To determine the required number of GKL slabs, it is necessary to draw a sketch plan for the development of walls and ceilings with all door and window openings, slopes and technological niches (for example, for heating radiators). After calculating the working area, its value should be divided by the area that one GKL has. The resulting value will need to be increased by 20% (for trimming and contingencies), which will be the number of panels required.

for fastening adjacent plates - with dimensions of 80 x 25 mm (first type) for intermediate vertical and horizontal fastenings - with dimensions of 40 x 25 mm (second type)

It is necessary to put on the plan vertical and horizontal axes, along which frame elements will be installed on the wall, ensuring the fastening of drywall to wooden blocks. Its design scheme will be:

two vertical beams of the first type 2500 mm long along the edges of the slab with a distance between them along the axis line of 1200 mm two vertical beams of the second type 2500 mm long, with a distance between themselves and the beams of the first type in the axes of 400 mm six horizontal beams of the second type installed in the upper and lower parts of the slab three intermediate, which must be installed along the axes located at a distance of 1250 mm from the upper and lower edges of the slab; the length of the extreme bars will be 400-80 / 2-40 / 2 \u003d 340 mm, the length of the middle ones - 400 - 40/2 - 40/2 \u003d 360 mm

Additionally, bars of the second type should be used to frame window and door openings and technological niches. If the height of the room exceeds 2500 mm, the upper horizontal beam is replaced with a beam with a section of 80 x 40 mm and is installed so that an additional 40 mm serves to fasten the top panel from a GKL sheet cut to the appropriate length, the length of the vertical beams of the first and second should also be increased type and the top beam of the second type is installed.

After calculating the total length of the required number of beams and also increasing it by 20%, they can be purchased at the construction market or made in a woodworking workshop. It is especially necessary to pay attention to the absence of oblique and increased branchiness in them.

Before using for at least one week, the entire set of wooden beams must be aged in the room in which it will be used. After that, a rejection should be carried out, and the rest should be treated with special compounds - antiseptics that prevent decay and damage by fungi and mold, flame retardants that give fire retardant properties. Currently, deep penetration impregnations are commercially available that provide protection for wood and prevent warping during fluctuations in humidity in a room within a fairly wide range.

In the manufacture and installation of the frame, it is necessary to follow the drawn plan.

Required Tools

Tools and equipment that will be required to complete the work:

hacksaw for wood construction knife construction angle steel rail-rule 1200-1500 mm long bubble level water level (when facing the ceiling) plumb hammer electric screwdriver ladder, stepladder, it is allowed to build and use self-made building goat scaffolds protective devices (hand gloves, goggles, respirators)

General provisions

The assembly of the frame and its installation from individual prepared elements with your own hands directly on the ceiling or on the wall presents some difficulties - constant alignment and adjustment in horizontal and vertical planes is required with the constant use of a plumb line, level, building square and rail-rule.

If the length and width of the room allow, an enlarged assembly of large fragments of the frame can be done directly on the floor. At the same time, it will be much easier to mount the frame, both on the wall and on the ceiling, and align and attach, respectively, in the vertical and horizontal planes.

The horizontal and vertical elements are well connected to each other using pieces of tin metal strip of the desired width (25 mm) bent at a right angle or through small blocks. Both those and others are fixed in the necessary places with the help of screws.

The installation of frame fragments on the walls and ceiling can be done using wood screws, if the walls and ceiling are wooden, using the so-called “plugs”, when a hole is drilled in a brick or stone in the right place, at a predetermined point in the wall, into which a wooden chopstick, into which, in turn, a nail is driven through the frame element or a screw is screwed in, while instead of a chopik, you can use a plastic dowel with a metal self-tapping screw.

After installing and leveling the frame, with significant tuberosity and distortions between it and the wall (or ceiling), gaps may form, which should be filled with gypsum mortar (if the tree was previously protected with moisture-proof impregnation), use mounting foam or wooden wedges and linings together with glue glue for wood, such as PVA. Otherwise, the wooden frame for plasterboard on the wall (or ceiling) will have increased fragility and may be deformed when the GKL panels are installed.

After installation and alignment on the wall or on the ceiling of the frame structure, you can begin to fasten the drywall to the wooden frame by directly mounting the GKL panels. In how to fix the bars to drywall, the following instructions will help.

To mount a plasterboard sheet, it must be pressed tightly against the mounted wooden frame structure, so that the long edges of the sheet lie exactly along the axes of the first type beam with a section of 80 x 25 mm at a distance of 40 mm, and so that it is possible to fix to the remaining 40 mm adjacent sheet.

Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws with a length of 20 mm. Using a screwdriver, you need to start fixing the GKL sheet on the frame, starting with the middle intermediate horizontal element of the second type. In order not to be mistaken with twisting, it is better to draw lines on the outer side of the drywall sheet with a pencil corresponding to the axes of the frame elements.

After that, you need to fix the sheet to the upper and lower horizontal frame elements. If the panel is to be mounted on a wall, its verticality and the absence of distortions must be checked using a plumb line, and on the ceiling - using a level.

Then the sheet can be fastened with vertical posts. When tightening the screws, it should be noted that the distance from them to the edge of the sheet must be at least 20 mm. The pitch between adjacent screws should be 100-120 mm.

The instruction on how drywall should be mounted on the ceiling is not much different from how to mount the plasterboard on the wall. On the horizontal surface of the ceiling, a horizontal crate in the form of a frame is also arranged, which should be attached to the ceiling structures and aligned horizontally using a water level. For the convenience of its installation, it is also better to pre-mount the enlarged elements of the frame on the floor.

In order to mount a frame from a drywall beam on the ceiling and sheathe it with plasterboard, your hands may not be enough. An assistant may be required for installation. In exceptional cases, you can use supports and braces that can help you install drywall on bars alone, but this method should be used with caution, as unforeseen situations may arise associated with the fall and destruction of drywall sheets.

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When installing drywall partitions, pine timber is often used as a frame material. Partitions on a wooden frame are used to divide the internal volume of the room, they are convenient for arranging interior transitions, shaft fencing, ventilation wells, etc.

Installation of a wooden frame

Widely used in residential and industrial buildings.

The requirements for the preliminary preparation of the frame wood are high-quality treatment with antiseptic materials that prevent the possibility of fungal infection, giving protection from woodworms, decay, and moisture. Fire protection is mandatory. The level of processing should provide the first group of fire resistance. The common disadvantages of a wooden frame include the high consumption of a fairly expensive material and the likelihood of warping during operation.

The timber prepared for use must have a permissible moisture content of 12 - 15%.

As a rule, the applied section is 50X80 mm or 60X90 mm, with a length equal to the height of the room. Such dimensions provide the necessary rigidity of the frame. A preliminary calculation of the design of the partition frame is carried out, taking into account future doors, passages, niches, and hanging equipment. Such a calculation necessarily takes into account the need for horizontal elements in the middle part of the frame and in all places of horizontal joints of sheets, as well as the obligation to shift such horizontal joints of adjacent sheets by 0.4 m.

After calculating the structure, the frame, the sequence and number of sheets to be hemmed on both sides is determined. And in this case, the need to shift the vertical joints of pairs of panels on opposite sides by one span is taken into account, i.e.

by 0.6 m. The principle of displacement of joints is common to all types of frames made of wood or metal profiles. Its observance allows to increase the strength and rigidity of the partition, to prevent the appearance of cracks in its surfaces.

The installation of the frame begins with tracing the outline of the bulkhead. To do this, use a breaker cord, a plumb line, a building level, at least 2 m long.

The marking of the future partition should include all openings. The supporting bars of the frame strapping are mounted along the perimeter. Their fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws on dowels, a puncher or an impact drill. It is very convenient to use direct suspensions (brackets) from a set of metal profile frames.

In the premises of wooden buildings, fastening is best done on beams and floor support logs. Installation of racks on a strapping beam can be done on a spike, simply with nails or self-tapping screws. Mounting on a spike is preferable, because.

gives a reliable connection that ensures the overall rigidity of the structure. The use of plasterboard sheets of standard sizes involves the installation of frame racks in increments of 0.6 m, with a sheet width of 1.2 m. With a room height of up to 3 m, the standard GKL length of 3 m allows you to sew up the entire height of the partition without horizontal joints.

Installation of drywall on a wooden frame

And in this case, the principle of displacement of panel joints is strictly observed. When placing insulating material in the spaces between the rack beam, the joints between the mats should be processed to increase their tightness. It is recommended, in order to avoid caking of the insulation, to apply the material on foil or mesh. After filing the first side of the partition on a wooden frame, all engineering communications are laid, and the opposite side is sewn up.

A properly made wooden frame for drywall is in no way inferior in its reliability to a supporting structure made of metal profiles.

Gypsum boards (gypsum plasterboards) are a fairly complex material of the composite type. It is made from plaster, cardboard and various additives. The latter give drywall special qualities. The main among them is high fire safety and excellent sound insulation. In addition, when using GKL, a minimum of dirt and waste is generated. This distinguishes it favorably from other construction activities.

Plasterboard sheets are made of three types:

• standard;
• fire resistant;
• moisture resistant.

Types of drywall sheets

GKL is used for the construction of partitions in residential and office premises, finishing wall and ceiling surfaces. Some modern manufacturers (for example, KNAUF) have launched in recent years the production of special drywall, ideal for flooring. Due to the fact that GKL does not emit harmful compounds during operation (the material is considered environmentally safe) and is characterized by an acidity index approximately identical to the acidity of human skin, it is often used for repair work in residential buildings.

Among other things, drywall is able to create an optimal microclimate in living rooms. It can naturally regulate the humidity in them. Today, drywall sheets are almost indispensable for various types of repair work. They make both simple designs and chic multi-level structures. Due to this, you can create the most modern bright and original design in your home.

There are the following technologies for mounting drywall sheets: frameless and frame. In the first case, sheet products are attached to the wall with an adhesive. The second technology involves the preliminary arrangement of a special frame. Subsequently, drywall is attached to it.

The frameless method makes it possible to save room space. Its significant drawback is that the installation of GKL is allowed only on a flat wall. But with the help of a frame technique, drywall can be fixed on surfaces that have bulges and depressions. But at the same time, the total volume of the room becomes smaller.

Frameless installation method GKL

The frame technology for mounting GKL is a minimum of construction dust. You do not need to make grooves in the wall for wiring and other household communications, all systems are placed in the free space between the structure skeleton and the wall surface.

The frame for the subsequent installation of drywall sheets on the wall is easily built with your own hands. A home craftsman with minimal experience in carrying out repair activities will erect a skeleton for a plasterboard in a matter of hours. And then it will also quickly fasten drywall to a self-made structure.

In most cases, the frame is made of metal profile products. But there is also a simpler method. It makes it possible to build skeletons for gypsum boards from light and easy-to-install wooden products (battens, beams). We will talk about this method of creating a frame structure for drywall with our own hands.

It is recommended to build a frame for mounting the GKL on the wall from coniferous wood. In this case, the wood must have a moisture content in the range of 12-18%, and also undergo a special fire-retardant treatment at the manufacturer of the beams or laths. It is also recommended to additionally apply antiseptic agents to wooden products. This treatment will protect the frame from:

• rodents (the smell of an antiseptic well repels mice and other animals that can damage the structure);
• mold and fungal microorganisms that destroy wood;
• carpenter insects;
• biological natural decay.

It is allowed to do the antiseptic protection of wood with your own hands. For these purposes, you can use sodium fluoride. It is sold as a light gray fine powder. You will need to mix the purchased mixture in well-heated (but not boiling) water (35–40 g of the drug per 1 liter of liquid). Then process with the resulting composition all the elements of the future frame for drywall.

Sodium fluoride for antiseptic protection of wood

Fluorine antiseptic easily penetrates into wooden products and is practically not washed out of them. It is important that it is non-toxic to humans, has no odor, and does not decompose during operation. Working with such a composition is simple and safe. Almost complete analogue of fluoride is sodium silicofluoride. It is allowed to purchase such a drug. But before use, add a little soda (calcined) to it.

It is impossible to carry out antiseptic treatment of wood with compounds containing the following components:

• anthracene oils;
• coal;
• creosote;
• slate.

The effect of their use will be good. But they are harmful to human health, as they are recognized as toxic substances. Pro tip! Before arranging the frame for mounting drywall on the wall, be sure to let the wooden products rest in the room where you will build the structure. In 48–72 hours, the wood will fully adapt to the humidity and temperature conditions. This process in the language of specialists is called tree acclimatization.

The construction we are interested in is made of wooden bars or slats of different sections - from 3x5 cm to 5x6 cm. The specific dimensions of the lumber are selected taking into account the expected load on the frame. All work is carried out using the most common construction tools - hacksaws or saws, electric drills, screwdrivers, screwdrivers, levels. Nails and mounting dowels are used as fasteners.

Important point! GKL is mounted on a frame structure in cases where wall surfaces are characterized by poor-quality coating (plaster or other) and significant roughness. It is also desirable to install such a structure when finishing walls in rooms with a height of 3 meters or more. The implementation of the adhesive technology for mounting GKL with their own hands in such high rooms is recognized by professionals as inappropriate.

Installation of plasterboard on a frame structure

A wooden frame on the wall is created according to the following scheme:

1. Analyze the state of the wall surface. Found irregularities are sealed with putty (plaster), areas with a peeling old coating are cleaned.
2. Mark up the wall. Perform this operation with strict observance of levels and angles (use measuring tools).
3. The horizontal beam is mounted first. It should be fixed to the floor base with anchors.
4. Attach wooden slats vertically to the installed beam. They should be about 1 cm from the edge of the crate. The distance between the individual vertical elements is 60 cm.
5. Check the correct position of the rails with a level.
6. Install the second horizontal element on the ceiling.

Before proceeding with the installation of the gypsum board, you should align the frame made. If the floors in the room are uneven, the correct position of the horizontal beam can be set by lining pieces of wood or scraps of chipboard products under it. After leveling the skeleton, firmly fix all its parts. That's the whole technology of assembling a wooden frame on the wall. Feel free to proceed with the installation of the GKL on a skeleton made by yourself.

The installation of drywall sheets should begin from the window or doorway of the room or from its far corner. GCR is fixed with wood screws. The mounting step of the hardware is 25 cm. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws with a length of no more than 3.5 cm.

Installation of drywall sheets on a wooden frame

Important note: if you are installing moisture resistant sheets, it is best to fix them to the frame with jagged galvanized nails. Place the first self-tapping screw (nail) at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the unlined edge of the GKL (1 cm from the lined one). Another subtlety of the work - when fixing drywall, it is necessary to move from one edge of the sheet to the other. In this case, the installation of products is carried out end-to-end. Special edges are provided on the end parts of the GKL. According to them, you can subsequently easily close the gaps between the products (first prime them, and then process them with putty).

Finally, we add that the fasteners must be installed as carefully as possible. Make sure that the heads of nails or self-tapping screws do not pierce the front side of the plasterboard. Such fasteners hold the sheets very poorly. Over time, drywall products will begin to walk and loosen up, which, quite possibly, will lead to the destruction of the entire structure.

Over time, every house, apartment needs to be renovated. This becomes especially important with the advent of children in the family. To create a children's room in a one-room apartment, it is not necessary to build a brick wall. , created by yourself, will delimit the room, while improving the design. The partition frame for drywall is created from wooden beams or metal profiles.

Drywall partition for room zoning

In both cases, you should carefully study the action plan, familiarize yourself with the generally accepted rules.

To create a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame, you need to take into account some factors that will determine the duration of the structure's service life and its functionality.

1. The wooden frame is installed only in a dry room.
2. The partition is placed in a room without sudden changes in temperature.
3. The wooden frame is installed in apartments, houses without obvious movements.
4. In a private house there is a high probability of damage to the tree by insects and rodents.

Creating a frame for a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame

If all of the above factors are excluded, the room is conducive to the construction of a partition with a frame of wooden beams.

Materials for wooden frame partitions

Materials are required to create a wooden frame. Before starting work, you should prepare some materials.

A prerequisite when creating a partition, the wood for the wooden frame must be dry

Wooden beams for the partition frame

What kind of wood is needed for the partition frame? For a high-quality frame base of the partition, ash, beech, pine, maple wood is used - I-II grade. Conifers contain a large amount of tree resin, which prevents rotting, they are less susceptible to damage by insects and rodents.

The size of the material is selected based on the dimensions of the partition. You will need bars with a section of 60x80 mm. For greater stability, 50x100 mm bars are purchased on the base of the frame (top, bottom).

Wooden blocks 60*80, 50*100

Before using wooden beams for installation, it is required to carry out some operations:

1. All wood used in the creation of the frame base should be dried. This may take up to 1 week.
2. After drying, the tree is treated with an antiseptic. There are many solutions for wood processing on the construction market. Pricing policy depends on the manufacturer.

Wood antiseptic

For confidence in the processing, drying oil is used. It dries for a long time, but it is 100% processed material. For processing drying oil should be heated in a water bath. When warm, the agent penetrates deeper into the tree. The ends of the bars should be very carefully treated with drying oil. In some cases, the beam should simply be lowered with its end into a container with an antiseptic.

Cooked drying oil in a water bath

When drying, 20% of the tree changes its appearance, which should be considered when buying.

Other materials

Instruments

To create a frame of wooden beams for a plasterboard partition, you will need a set of tools:

1. Pencil or chalk.
2. Meter, plumb lines, level.
3. Perforator.
4. Screwdriver.
5. Saw or hacksaw.
6. roller.
7. A set of spatulas with different blade sizes.

A set of necessary tools for working with GKL

If it is not possible to purchase a power tool, you can rent it.

Work plan for the installation of a wooden frame for a partition made of plasterboard

To build a solid wood frame for a plasterboard partition, you should act according to the plan.

Preparatory work and drawing

The first step in installation is surface preparation. This requires an analysis of the surface of the floor, adjacent walls, ceiling. The entire surface must be level. If you attach a flat wooden beam to the wall, there will be a gap of 0.3 mm. This is not critical, but a gap of 0.5-0.8 or more will affect the design, since when the beam is fixed, it will bend. Therefore, the entire surface must be flat.

The deviation of the surface from the norm should be no more than 0.8 mm.

Be sure to keep the room dry and clean. To do this, remove all objects that interfere with installation. Clean out debris, remove dust and cobwebs. It is desirable to treat the surface boundaries with a primer mixture with an antiseptic.

When the surface is prepared, you can start drawing on paper. First you need to decide on the type of partition. Will it be up to half the room or in the form of a wall? Will there be windows, doors or an arch? This should be reflected on paper.

The next step is measurements. All taken dimensions along the perimeter, as well as the estimated window and door openings, are applied to the drawing of the partition.

Scheme of a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame

Vertical racks are placed every 40 cm. Horizontal jumpers are installed at the junction of drywall sheets. In the place of the doorway there is a strengthening of the horizontal beam. In the place of a niche that will be functional, there is also strengthening. In the case of sheathing a partition with two layers of plasterboard, a calculation will be required for the horizontal jumpers of the first layer of plasterboard (joints) and the second layer of sheet joints.

Marking for a wooden frame partition

For marking you will need a level or a laser. With accuracy, it is required to mark horizontal lines on the ceiling and floor, and a strictly vertical strip on the wall. Fastener points are marked on these lines. And also it should be noted the boundaries of the doorway.

Marking for a future drywall partition

In order for the marking to be accurate, plumb lines should be used. They are dropped down from the ceiling. The cone of the tool does not reach the floor by 1-2 mm. A fixed plumb line on the ceiling line with its end of the weight shows the exact point on the floor. Plumb lines should be hung at least at three points across the entire width of the partition.

Installation of a wooden frame

Installation of the frame base begins with the fastening of a wooden beam to the ceiling. There are some nuances here. If the ceiling is wooden (private wooden house, shingles), then ordinary wood screws 3.5 * 35 are used. If the base is concrete or brick, then wooden beams are fastened to the wall, floor with dowels-nails, to the ceiling with an anchor-wedge.

Initially, a wooden beam is attached to the ceiling

All guide (main) bars are attached in increments of 30-40 cm. This will give reliability and strength to the entire structure. If the plaster layer is unreliable, there is an option to replace the dowels with wooden pegs. They are tightly driven into the wall, sometimes they are smeared with alabaster solution from above, after which a self-tapping screw is screwed in.

Vertical bar fixed on the wall

After fixing the guide at the top, attach the beam at the bottom. This should be done very carefully, since the evenness of the partition depends on this procedure. The last beam is fixed to the wall, thereby tying the floor and ceiling fixed materials. Should be a frame. Metal corners are attached to all internal 90-degree corners. This is an additional fixation of the reliability of the frame. The corner is made independently in the absence of furniture parts.

Installation of vertical racks

Now you need to install the vertical racks. They are created from a tree of the same section as the strapping. The racks are fixed with wood screws. For strength, metal corners are installed. In the place of the planned door, the vertical posts are reinforced (2 knocked down bars).

Horizontal jumpers are installed at the junction of the drywall sheet. As well as reinforced horizontal lintels are placed in the places of the created niches and at the top of the doorway.

Installing and fixing the horizontal jumper

In the place of the doorway below, the wooden beam will serve as a threshold. But, if this element is not provided, the tree is cut out, and the edges of the timber are additionally fastened with self-tapping dowels.

Wiring

In this type of construction, communication is impossible. But, if it is necessary to make a backlight, a socket, a switch, then along the path of laying the wires, small diameter holes are made in the tree with a drill.

It should be noted that the wires through the holes in the tree should only be using corrugations or inserted metal tubes to prevent fire.

Wires run through these holes. Wiring must be done in accordance with the wiring diagram. It should be kept. In places of switches and sockets, space should be allocated for the box.

Mounted boxes for sockets and switches in a wooden frame