How to distinguish actinidia male from female? Actinidia is a decorative vine with delicious berries.

In garden shops, actinidia is becoming increasingly popular, growing and caring for which is very simple, and the result is pleasant. From a shrub, you can collect at least 20 kg of delicious fruits, depending on age. What is it? In order not to be wordy, let's say that one of the varieties of this plant is kiwi. So what should be the care of a miracle relative to get a big harvest?

Brief information about actinidia

Actinidia is an ornamental and medicinal shrub liana, each year bringing bountiful harvest. The homeland of the plant is China. In the Primorsky Territory of the Far East, you can often find wild actinidia, on the basis of which many winter-hardy varieties have been bred that can grow and bear fruit in our conditions. Most often, the plant is found to us not in the form of a bush, but in the form of fruits, which include kiwi.

Due to the variegation of actinidia, they are often planted in the garden for vertical gardening of verandas, houses, arbors, pergolas, fences, trellises. The plant is especially beautiful during the blooming of many buds (in early June). In August-September, large fruits weighing 13-18 g appear in their place.

Fruits can be eaten fresh, and cook jam, compote, marmalade, marshmallow from them, or add to pastries. Dried and dried fruits taste somewhat reminiscent of raisins.

Preparing for landing

Growing and caring for actinidia requires a series of manipulations on which the proper development of the plant depends. Because of the vulnerability of the root system, they buy those seedlings in which it is covered.

You should buy seedlings of three years of age or more. Moreover, these should be both male specimens and female specimens in a ratio of 1-2: 5, respectively, since actinidia is a dioecious plant and cross-pollination is possible only between plants of its own species.

The sex of the plant is determined by the structure of the flowers in the first flowering. The male specimen has buds with many stamens, but they lack a pistil. In addition, the flowers make up inflorescences of 6 or more buds. The male plants are characterized by a dark green color on the upper side of the foliage, which during the summer becomes white with pubescence, and then pink-red.

The female plant has both stamens and a pistil, but the former do not participate in pollination at all. Flowers receive pollen thanks to the wind, bees and bumblebees. Unlike the male plant, the buds are solitary here. As for the color of the foliage, the female bushes change it to brownish by autumn.

The buds are laid in the axils of the leaves on the branches of the current year. The duration of flowering is 10 days, after which, in place of the buds on the female plants, ovaries are formed, from which fruits of a light orange or yellow-green hue develop.

Location selection

Actinidia is a climbing plant, so it is often planted along the walls of the house, hedges, arbors and other buildings. In addition, this arrangement protects the plant in winter, and it rarely freezes.

In their natural environment, actinidia prefer the “openwork” penumbra of sparse forests, so when growing plants in a garden, it is advisable to choose a place with identical conditions and protect from direct sunlight.

Actinidia does not like places where water stagnates for a long time, so it is not recommended to plant it under the drain and in tree trunks.

Correct fit

Caring for actinidia in the spring means proper fit. The plant is undemanding to the soil. In its natural environment, it grows in soil with a low content of phosphorus and nitrogen. Absolutely not suitable alkaline and clay soils. Sour, slightly acidic, at worst neutral are preferred. This explains the impossibility of using lime as a fertilizer. It is preferable to plant plants in the spring, but it is also possible in the autumn, 2-3 weeks before frost.

Autumn planting is carried out only for plants of the 2nd-3rd age.

For planting, dig holes 60 * 60 cm, putting 10-15 cm of drainage in them (pebbles, expanded clay, crushed stone). Rich soil is added to each hole by mixing 2-3 tbsp. wood ash, 10 kg of humus and 0.15 kg.

As soon as the earth settles, they start planting plants, having previously poured a hill of earth that does not contain fertilizer into the hole, on which the seedling is placed. There should be a distance of 1.5-2.5 m between the bushes. After planting, the seedlings are watered (about 2-3 buckets per unit), the ground is slightly crushed so that the root neck is flush with the ground. Top mulch with peat, sawdust, compost, pine bark.

Supporting the plant in an upright position

After planting, it is immediately necessary to install supports for actinidia (frames, trellises) - two-meter concrete or wooden, between which the wire is stretched in 3-4 rows. Orient the support frame from east to west. At the same time, plants are placed on the south side, forming on a support in the form of a comb or fan.

Actinidia Care

Care includes watering, fertilizing, mulching and pruning. To moisturize the plants should be well sprayed in the morning and evening. It is especially necessary to carry out the procedure in the heat.

The cultivation and care of actinidia during a long drought is as follows. So that the plant does not lose foliage, it is watered every week in the amount of 6-8 buckets of water per unit. Otherwise, after dropping the foliage, the plant cannot grow a new one and will freeze in winter.

Carry out the procedure of near-stem loosening often, carrying out weeding at the same time, but not very deep, so as not to damage the root system.

It is important for actinidia to receive fertilizers, as this increases its frost resistance, stimulates the growth of young shoots and helps increase yields. The question of how to feed actinidia in the spring is solved quickly.

In early spring, phosphorus-, nitrogen- and potassium-containing fertilizers are applied in the ratio of 20:35:20 g per 1 m². When the fruits begin to set, they perform the second “feeding”, applying similar fertilizers, but in a ratio of 10-12 / 15-20 / 10-12 g per 1 m². The last top dressing is carried out in mid-September, when the crop is harvested, using a mixture of phosphorus and potassium, 20 g each. Fertilizer should be evenly distributed over the soil, and then dug to a depth of 10-12 cm and water each bush abundantly.

pruning

To prevent thickening of the crown, pruning is carried out.

The procedure is performed only for actinidia that have reached 3-4 years of age.

Manipulations are carried out throughout the summer, after which the branches are placed on a support for actinidia in the right direction. They also do pinching, which stops the growth of branches.

To rejuvenate 8-10-year-old plants, old skeletal branches are pruned, leaving only a 30-40 cm stump from the vine.

Actinidia pruning in spring and autumn is not performed due to strong sap flow. Otherwise, the plant will die.

With the onset of autumn, young 2-3 year old vines are removed from supports and covered with peat, dry foliage, spruce branches, at least 20 cm, after putting poison for rodents so that they do not dig nests. Adult actinidia do not need to cover.

reproduction

If you are engaged in growing a plant, then sooner or later you will be interested in how to propagate actinidia. The breeding process is quite simple, so the gardener can independently grow both male and female specimens. In this case, the sex and characteristics of the variety are inherited from the parent to the child (except for the use of the seed method).

The method of arc layers

At the end of the spring sap flow and blooming of young foliage, the longest and well-developed growth shoot is selected, tilted down with the tip and attached to the ground, sprinkling the pinning place with a 10-15 cm layer of soil. The hill should be watered and mulched with sawdust or humus.

In the autumn or spring of next year, the layering and the mother bush are separated, and the baby is transplanted to permanent place location.

cuttings

Often, gardeners are interested in how to propagate actinidia by cuttings in the spring. This is done in two ways.

Cuttings with green shoots

With the onset of June, several strong one-year-old twigs 0.5-1 m long are selected, cut off in the morning and immediately placed in a jar of water to prevent wilting. Each twig is divided into fragments of 10-15 cm and planted in soil (slightly acidic or neutral), into which humus and river sand are previously added in a ratio of 1: 2, and also does not contain chlorine (100 g is enough for 1 m²).

Planting is carried out at an angle of 60º, keeping a distance of 5 cm between cuttings and 10 cm between rows. In this case, the middle bud on the branch should be located at the level of the soil. The soil is compacted around the cutting, watered, and a two-layer gauze is laid on top, which is removed after 2 weeks.

Before the onset of winter, the cuttings are hidden under fallen leaves, and in the spring, until the foliage has blossomed, they are transplanted to a permanent place of growth.

The method of lignified cuttings

According to this method, the reproduction of actinidia is carried out as follows. Lignified cuttings are cut in late autumn, tied into bunches and stored vertically until spring in a box filled with sand at 1-5 ºC maximum. Planting is carried out in a greenhouse and watered every two days. Take care of like green cuttings.

seed way

Having kneaded the most ripe whole fruits, and then washing, the resulting seeds are dried on paper in the shade. Then, in the first decade of December, they are soaked for 4 days, filled with 2 cm of water, stratified and sown 0.5 cm deep in containers filled with a mixture of soddy soil and river sand.

Shoots should be sprayed and covered from direct sunlight. After the appearance of 3-4 leaves, the young are transplanted into the greenhouse. Flowering occurs upon reaching 3-5 years of age, after which the plant is transplanted to a permanent place in the ground.

Diseases and pests

Plants are quite resistant to diseases and are rarely attacked by pests. If the rules of care are followed during the cultivation of actinidia, the bushes become practically invulnerable.

Of the diseases, the plant can be affected by phyllosticosis, fruit rot, powdery mildew, green or gray mold, fungal diseases that cause spots on the foliage. If problems arise, diseased parts of the plant are removed. As a preventive goal, the plants are treated with Bordeaux liquid (1%) immediately after the appearance of the kidneys. The procedure is repeated after 2 weeks. To combat powdery mildew, a double treatment (with a break of 10 days) of baking soda (0.5% solution) is carried out.

From insects, leaf beetles and their larvae, which eat buds, foliage and fruits, as well as lacewings, caterpillars of the raisin moth, and bark beetles do great harm to the plant. Relief brings spring and autumn processing soil and the whole plant with Bordeaux liquid, which kills wintering or wintering pests and their larvae.

Oddly enough, the pests also include ... cats. After the snow melts, the animals dig up the roots, thereby damaging them, and also eat young shoots. Therefore, as soon as the plants have been planted, they must be protected with a wire fence, deepening it 10 cm into the ground and making some kind of cover so that the cats cannot penetrate the tree through the top.

Proper care for actinidia will help grow a healthy shrub, which will later generously thank you with a large harvest of tasty fruits.

Video about growing actinidia

• Bloom: end of May or beginning of June.
• Landing: two-three-year-old seedlings can be planted in the fall, 2-3 weeks before the first frost, and older actinidias are best planted in early spring, before the start of sap flow.
• Lighting: bright sun in the morning and partial shade in the afternoon.
• The soil: loose, moist, well-drained, slightly acidic or neutral, in an area with deep groundwater. Do not plant a plant next to apple trees: such a neighborhood harms actinidia. A good company of actinidia will be currants.
• Support: since actinidia is a liana, when planting, it is necessary to provide support for it: a fence, a wall, a vine-like trellis or a strong structure in the form of an arch.
• Watering: in hot weather, it is advisable to use the airborne method, spraying the plant early in the morning and after sunset, and in a prolonged drought, 6-7 buckets of water should be poured under each bush, otherwise the plant may shed its leaves.
• Top dressing: mineral fertilizers: in early spring - 35 g of nitrogen, 20 g of phosphorus and 20 g of potash fertilizer per m² of the trunk circle; during the formation of ovaries - 10-15 g of potassium, 15-20 g of nitrogen and 10-15 g phosphate fertilizer per m²; after harvest, in the second decade of September - 20 g of potash and phosphorus fertilizer per m².
• Pruning: they form a bush from the age of three to four years, anti-aging pruning is carried out from the age of eight. All types of pruning should be done only in the summer.
• Reproduction: seeds, arc layering, green and lignified cuttings.
• Pests: leaf beetles, caterpillars of kishmish moths, bark beetles.
• Diseases: powdery mildew, phyllosticosis, fruit rot, gray and green mold.
• Properties: Actinidia fruits are a dietary product, contain many substances useful for the human body and have medicinal properties.

Read more about growing actinidia below.

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Actinidia plant - description

General characteristics.

Actinidia is a deciduous perennial vine with whole leaves, sometimes thin, and sometimes leathery. It is the leaves of Actinidia that are the reason for the high decorativeness of the liana, since their variegated color is an infrequent occurrence for plants. temperate climate. The stems and shoots of actinidia require support. The buds are hidden in the scars of the leaves. Flowers, solitary or in groups of three, are collected in the axils of the leaves. The corolla is most often white, but there are species with orange or golden yellow corollas. In most species, the flowers are odorless, but some species, such as polygamous actinidia, exude a pleasant aroma.

How to distinguish male actinidia from female.

Actinidia - dioecious plant represented by both male and female specimens. The sex of the creeper can be determined during the first flowering by the structure of the flowers. How to distinguish a female plant from a male? The male actinidia differs in that its flowers, in the presence of many stamens, do not have a pistil, while the female actinidia, in addition to stamens with sterile pollen that are not involved in pollination, has a large pistil in the center of the flower. Pollen from male plants to female plants is carried by bumblebees, bees and the wind. Flower buds are formed in the axils of the leaves on the shoots of the current year. Flowering lasts ten days, then the ovary begins to grow in the female flowers, turning into yellow-green or light orange fruits. Due to Actinidia's dioecious nature, gardeners wishing to harvest fruit need to plant at least two plants per plot so that they can cross-pollinate. Actinidia fruits are a valuable food and dietary product rich in ascorbic acid, sugars and other biologically active substances. They can be consumed fresh, you can make jam, drinks and wines from them, and when dried, actinidia berries resemble large raisins. In the last decade, the interest of amateur gardeners in actinidia has increased greatly and it is quite possible that it will soon become just as familiar to us. garden culture like currants, strawberries, gooseberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries.

Planting actinidia

When to plant actinidia.

Cultivation of actinidia begins with its planting, which is carried out in early spring or autumn, when the actinidia bush in the nursery reaches the age of 2-4 years. But before planting actinidia, you need to choose for it appropriate place, since the vine can grow and bear fruit in your garden for more than thirty years, unless, of course, planting and caring for actinidia will be carried out in strict accordance with its agricultural practices. Actinidia are shade-tolerant, but their fruits ripen only in the sun, so the location of the vine under the bright sun, but with shading in the hot afternoon hours, will be optimal. Do not plant a plant near apple trees - such a neighborhood harms it, but actinidia treats currant bushes favorably. Actinidia does not like clay soils, keep this in mind. The soil she needs is loose, moist, well-drained and in no case alkaline. If the groundwater in your area lies too close to the surface, you will have to fill a hill for actinidia. Best of all, it grows on a hill or on a slope, where water does not stagnate in the roots, but flows naturally. In addition, it is important to provide a support for the creeper - the wall of the house, a nearby fence, but more often a trellis for actinidia is used, which allows the gardener to form a plant, for example, in the form of an arch, since the ripening fruits of actinidia are located in the upper part of the crown, and it will be inconvenient to get them from the roof of the house.

Planting actinidia in the spring.

Actinidia should be planted in early spring, before the start of sap flow. Actinidia agruta is planted at a distance of one and a half to two meters between specimens, since plants of this species take up a lot of space. Planting actinidia kolomikta requires maintaining a distance of at least a meter between seedlings. If you plan to decorate the wall of a building, you need to plant actinidia every half a meter in a trench with organic fertilizers. Before planting actinidia, prepare seedlings for planting: cut off broken and dry roots and branches, lower the roots before planting in a clay mash. Two weeks before planting, pits are dug 50x50x50 in size, a drainage layer of broken bricks, pebbles or small stones is placed in them, but not from building rubble, since it contains lime, which actinidia does not tolerate. Then fertile soil is poured into the pit, thoroughly mixed with humus (peat or compost) and mineral fertilizers - 120 g of ammonium nitrate, 250 g of superphosphate, and 35 g of wood ash or potassium sulfate. Chlorine-containing fertilizers, such as potassium chloride, cannot be applied to the soil for actinidia - it is detrimental to the plant. When the soil settles slightly in half a month, a hill of soil without fertilizers is poured into the pit, and actinidia is placed on it so that the root collar remains at surface level, after which the roots are covered with soil, tamping it down as the pit fills. After planting, the soil around the seedling is watered with two or three buckets of water, mulched with a layer of compost or peat four to five centimeters thick and covered from direct sunlight with paper or cloth until the actinidia takes root. The aroma of actinidia attracts cats, so it would be useful to protect the seedling from their encroachments by digging around it to a depth of 5 cm a metal mesh with a height of at least half a meter.

Planting actinidia in autumn.

Autumn planting of actinidia is carried out 2-3 weeks before the first frosts, but in the fall only those plants that are no more than 2-3 years old are planted - older specimens painfully tolerate a transplant in the fall. Otherwise, the landing procedure is the same as in the spring.

Supports for actinidia.

Actinidias do not have aerial roots and are completely harmless to buildings, so you can plant them near buildings and let them climb walls. It is good to use actinidia for the design of arbors. Without support, actinidia become tangled, and it becomes difficult to take care of plants and row spacing, and the fruit yield may decrease. Most often, classic forms of arches and pergolas, made of wood, metal or concrete, are used for supports. It is possible to stretch galvanized wire between two concrete columns in 3-4 rows, according to the principle of a grape trellis, so that actinidia can grow vertically. In the process of growth, the shoots of the plant are tied to a trellis. In areas where winters are severe, removable trellises can be constructed from metal corner, which are inserted into pipes dug into the ground, and on the eve of cold weather, the trellises are removed from the pipes and laid on the ground along with the liana under cover. In the spring, such trellises are easy to lift and install.

Actinidia Care

Growing actinidia in the garden.

Care for actinidia during the period of active growth consists in weeding the site, watering the plant, pruning it, feeding it, treating diseases and destroying pests, if any. Moreover, caring for actinidia kolomikta involves exactly the same actions as caring for actinidia argut. It is preferable to moisten actinidia by airborne droplets, namely by morning and evening spraying of the plant, especially in the hottest time of the year. Sometimes a prolonged atmospheric drought forces the actinidia to lose leaves in the middle of the growing season, and to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to moisten the soil around the actinidia weekly in dry summers, pouring six to eight buckets of water at a time under each bush. If this is not done and the actinidia is allowed to shed its foliage, then the young leaves that have grown after the drought will not have time to grow before autumn and will freeze. The soil around the bush needs to be loosened shallowly, but quite often, while simultaneously removing emerging weeds.

Feeding actinidia.

Feeding actinidia with mineral fertilizers stimulates the growth of new shoots, increases winter hardiness and plant productivity. Feeding actinidia in early spring should include the application of 35 g of nitrogen and 20 g of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to each m² of land. The second top dressing is applied during the formation of ovaries at the rate of 15-20 g of nitrogen, 10-12 g of phosphorus and the same amount of potash fertilizers per m². After harvesting, approximately in the second decade of September, actinidia is fertilized for the third time, but only with potassium and phosphorus in an amount of 20 g of each fertilizer per m². Fertilizer granules are evenly distributed over the surface of the soil, planted to a depth of 10-12 cm, and then the soil around the liana is abundantly watered.

Actinidia pruning.

Good actinidia care stimulates strong growth of shoots and awakening of the kidneys, which often leads to thickening of the crown. Formative pruning of actinidia helps to avoid excessive density, which reduces productivity and makes the plant less winter-hardy, but only those specimens that have reached the age of three or four are subject to formation. Pruning is carried out during the summer, after which the remaining branches are distributed along the trellis in the direction you need. For better maturation of wood, it makes sense to pinch the tips of the shoots that limit their growth. A two-shoulder cordon is formed along a horizontal trellis from the shoots: two shoots of the same level and in the same plane are sent to opposite directions and fix, the remaining shoots of this level are cut out. The second-order shoots that grow next year on these horizontal branches, on which the crop is formed, are tied to a vertical guide, around which they then curl themselves. Rejuvenating pruning to replace old skeletal branches is carried out when the actinidia reaches eight to ten years of age - only a stump 30-40 cm high is left from the vine. Do not prune in early spring and early autumn - at this time sap flow in plants is very strong, actinidia can simply expire like a spring birch, and perish.

Actinidia after harvest.

Actinidia begins to bear fruit at the age of three or four, but it gives real crops from seven years to old age - 40 years or more. With good care, the number of berries collected from one actinidia reaches 60 kg, and sometimes more. The fruits of actinidia do not ripen at the same time, but do not crumble from the bushes for a long time. The collection usually starts from mid-August and sometimes lasts until mid-October. After you have removed the last berries, feed the plant so that it has something to eat in the winter.

Actinidia in autumn and winter.

Remove from the trellis and cover with peat, spruce branches or dry leaves young plantings that are only 2-3 years old. The cover layer should be at least 20 cm thick, and it is advisable to put poison for rodents under it. Mice do not eat shoots, but make nests in them. Remove shelter from young plants in April. Sanitary pruning of adult vines is carried out in the second half of September, shortening their shoots by half or at least a third of the length, and also removing branches that thicken the crown. Adult actinidia overwinter without shelter.

Reproduction of actinidia

How to propagate actinidia.

Actinidia reproduces quite simply, and you can easily grow both male and female specimens, since the sex of this genus is inherited, as are the characteristics of the variety. This applies only to vegetative propagation, since with the seed method it is impossible to know what sex the seedling is, and varietal characteristics are very often not transmitted during generative propagation. But actinidia grown from seeds are much more hardy. Fruiting actinidia obtained by vegetative reproduction, begins at 3-4 years, and plants grown from seeds sometimes give first fruits only in the seventh year, so before propagating actinidia, think about which method is best for you.

Propagation of actinidia by arc layers.

This method is simple and reliable. When the spring sap flow ends and the young leaves unfold, choose a long, well-developed growth shoot, tilt it upside down and pin it to the soil. Cover the attachment point with a layer of soil of 10-15 cm and water it, and mulch the resulting mound with humus or sawdust. The top of the shoot should remain above the ground. Remove weeds as they appear, regularly water the earthen mound, and spray the shoot that appears from it. Already in the fall or, in extreme cases, next year, the cuttings can be separated from the mother plant and planted in a permanent place.

Propagation of actinidia by cuttings.

The fastest propagation method, which gives a large number of seedlings, is cuttings of actinidia, namely, propagation of actinidia with green cuttings. Cuttings are carried out in June, during rapid growth fruits and lignification of shoots, which turn from green to brown. Mark a few strong annual branches half a meter or a meter long and cut them in the morning. Immediately lower the ends of the shoots into a vessel with water so that the branches do not stick, and divide the shoots themselves into segments of 10-15 cm so that each cutting has three buds and two internodes. Under the lower kidney, the cut should be at an angle of 45º, the upper straight cut should be 4-5 cm above the upper kidney. The lower leaves are carefully removed along with the petioles, and upper leaves shortened by half. Then the cuttings are planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse on a pre-prepared and watered bed, on which humus and river sand are added to neutral or slightly acidic soil in a ratio of 2: 2: 1 and a complex mineral fertilizer without chlorine at the rate of 100 g per m². Cuttings are planted at an angle of approximately 60º, keeping a distance of 5 cm between specimens, and twice as much between rows. When deepening, the middle kidney of the cutting should be at the level of the surface. After planting, the ground around the cuttings is compacted, watered again and covered with gauze in two layers. Before rooting, cuttings are abundantly sprayed with water two to five times a day directly through cheesecloth. In cloudy weather, gauze can be removed in the mornings and evenings, and after two weeks it is removed completely. Before winter, the cuttings are covered with fallen leaves, and in the spring, before the buds open, they are dug up and transplanted to a permanent place.

Reproduction of actinidia by lignified cuttings.

Lignified cuttings are also suitable for propagation, but they are harvested not in summer, but in late autumn, and stored until spring planting in a box with sand in a vertical position, tied in bunches. The storage temperature should not exceed 1-5 ºC. You can cut cuttings from lignified shoots at the end of winter, until sap flow begins in the plants. Planted cuttings in a greenhouse or greenhouse, watering once every two days. Otherwise, care for them is the same as for green cuttings.

Combined cuttings can be rooted: at the beginning of summer, separate the growing shoot of the current year from actinidia with a part (heel) of the annual branch adjacent to it, plant it in a garden bed or in a greenhouse in open ground, cover it from direct rays and water daily. In such cuttings, the root system develops well, so the next spring the cutting can be planted in a permanent place.

Reproduction of actinidia seeds.

Seeds are obtained from intact ripe fruits: the berries are kneaded, placed in a mesh bag and washed in it under running water, then the seeds remaining in the bag are removed, laid out on paper and dried in the shade. In the first decade of December, the planting material is soaked for four days in such a way that there is about two centimeters of water above the seeds, which is changed daily to fresh. Then the actinidia seeds are placed in a nylon stocking and lowered into a box with wet sand. The box should be kept in a room with an air temperature of 18-20 ºC. Every week, the stocking with seeds is removed from the sand and aired for several minutes, then the seeds are washed under running water without removing them from the stocking, slightly squeezed, and the stocking is again immersed in wet sand. It is important that the seeds do not dry out. In January, a box with sand and planting material in a stocking is wrapped in cloth and buried in deep snow for two months. If there is no snow, place the crate in the refrigerator instead of one of the vegetable containers. After two months, the seeds are taken out of the refrigerator and placed in a place where the temperature is maintained at 10-12 ºC, not higher, so that the seeds, after stratification in the cold, having fallen into relative heat, do not fall into a dormant period. Continue rinsing and aerating the seed stocking weekly as you did before stratification, and as soon as you find that some of the seeds have pecked, sow them all in containers with a mixture of river sand and sod land and close to a depth of half a centimeter. Seedlings should be regularly sprayed and protected from direct sunlight, and in mid-June, when they have 3-4 true leaves, the seedlings are transplanted into a greenhouse. The first time the seedlings will bloom in 3-5 years, and then it will be possible to determine their gender, and then transplant to a permanent place.

Pests and diseases of actinidia

Actinidia diseases.

It must be said that actinidia are almost not susceptible to diseases and they are not often affected by pests, and with good care and observance of the rules of agricultural technology, they become practically invulnerable. However, sometimes actinidia still suffer from powdery mildew, phyllosticosis and other fungal diseases that cause spots on the leaves of the plant. Fruit rot, green and gray mold can affect actinidia, and most often these problems occur in actinidia arguta. It is necessary to remove the affected parts of the plant - fruits, shoots and leaves, and for the purpose of prevention, treat the plants with one percent Bordeaux liquid after the appearance of buds and two weeks after the first treatment. Powdery mildew is destroyed by double treatment with a half-percent solution of soda ash with an interval of 10 days.

Actinidia pests.

From insects, actinidia is harmed by leaf beetles that eat away swollen buds at the beginning of the growing season. Later, the larvae of these beetles damage the flesh of the leaves, leaving only the veins from it. Sometimes you have to fight with the moth caterpillar, which leaves huge holes on the leaves of actinidia. The plant is also harmed by lacewings and bark beetles. Spring treatment of the liana and the soil around it with Bordeaux liquid will help get rid of pest larvae wintering in the bark and soil, and autumn treatment of actinidia and the area around it with the same preparation will destroy pathogens and pests that have settled for wintering.

Varieties of actinidia

Of the wide variety of species of actinidia, only three of them are grown in culture - actinidia arguta, actinidia kolomikta and actinidia purple, as well as interspecific actinidia Giralda, polygamous and hybrid. And, of course, many varieties of these species and subspecies. We bring to your attention the characteristics of the main species, subspecies and description of the varieties of actinidia.

Actinidia arguta (Actinidia arguta)

- the most powerful of all cultivated species, growing in nature in the Far East and reaching a height of 25-30 meters. The trunk diameter is 15-18 cm, the leaves are ovate, pointed, finely serrated along the edge, up to 15 cm long. This is a dioecious liana with white fragrant flowers up to two centimeters in diameter, single or collected in racemes. The fruits are spherical, dark green, edible, with a slight laxative effect. The diameter of the berries is 1.5-3 cm, the weight is 5-6 g. The fruits ripen at the end of September. The best varieties:

• – Actinidia self fertile- winter-hardy variety of late ripening - begins to bear fruit in the second half of September; the mass of the fragrant fruit is 18 g, the shape of the berries is elongated-cylindrical, the color is bright green, the taste is sweet. Productivity per bush 10-12 kg;
• – Primorskaya- a variety of medium winter hardiness, resistant to diseases, rarely affected by pests, self-fertile, requiring male plants; green, smooth, soft leaves of medium size, elliptical fruits weighing from 6.6 to 8.3 g, olive color with thin skin and tender flesh, apple aroma and excellent taste;
• – Actinidia large-fruited- a dioecious variety, drought-resistant and frost-resistant, fruits are elliptical, dark green with a blush, honey taste and light aroma, medium ripening, weighing from 10 to 18 g, up to 20 mm long.

In addition to those described, varieties of actinidia acute Relay, Mikhneevskaya, Ilona, ​​Golden Spit, Vera, September, Lunnaya and others are known and popular.

Actinidia kolomikta (Actinidia kolomikta)

is the most resistant to harsh winters liana, reaching a height of 5 to 10 meters. The diameter of the trunk is about 20 mm, the leaves are 7 to 16 cm long, ovate, sharply serrated along the edge, have a reddish pubescence along the veins, reddish petioles. The leaves of male specimens are variegated - in July the top of the leaf becomes white, then pale pink and, in the end, bright crimson. In autumn, the color of the leaves in yellow-pink and red-violet tones is no less attractive. The plant is dioecious. Fragrant white flowers on female creepers are solitary, on male ones they are collected in brushes of 3-5 pieces. The fruits are edible, 2-2.5 cm long, green, sometimes acquiring a reddish or bronze tint in the sun. Ripening of berries begins in August. Varieties of actinidia kolomikta:

• – Actinidia Pineapple- a fast-growing dioecious plant, which is one of the most productive varieties, fruiting with oval berries up to 3 cm long, green with a red barrel, which have a pleasant pineapple taste;
• – Actinidia Doctor Shimanovsky- frost-resistant variegated variety of medium fruiting period, fruits weighing up to three grams and 2.5 cm long green with delicate sweet and sour pulp and apple-pineapple aroma;
• – Gourmand- a recently bred variety of medium ripening with large fruits up to 32 mm in length, weighing from 4 to 5.5 g of sweet and sour pineapple taste.

Of interest to gardeners are also varieties of actinidia kolomikta Moma, Narodnaya, Waffle, Homestead, Holiday, Slastena and others.

Actinidia polygama (Actinidia polygama)

grows in height up to 4-5 meters, trunk girth - up to 2 cm, outwardly it looks like actinidia kolomikta. The leaves are oblong, elliptical, pointed towards the top and serrate along the edge. Color - green with silvery spots, in autumn the leaves turn yellow. Fragrant white flowers are usually solitary and dioecious, but sometimes bisexual. The fruits are edible, weighing up to 3 g. Varieties:

• – Actinidia Apricot- grade late deadline ripening with moderate winter hardiness, but resistant to diseases and pests. Self-infertile, meaning it requires male plants. Berries flattened on both sides up to 3.5 cm long and up to 6 g in weight with a sweet and sour taste and aroma of balm;
• – Gorgeous- winter-hardy, resistant to diseases and pests variety with very fragrant yellowish-green fruits weighing about 3.5 g of sour taste;
• – patterned- the shape of the fruit is cylindrical, elongated, the color is orange with barely noticeable longitudinal stripes; late variety, taste and aroma of fig-pepper.

Actinidia Giraldi (Actinidia giraldii)

some scientists consider it a variety of actinidia arguta, but actinidia Giraldi has larger and sweeter fruits. In addition, this species is so rare in nature that it is listed in the Red Book. Thus, if you grow this vine on your site, you will contribute to the conservation of a species rare on Earth. Varieties:

• – Juliania- the green fruits of this late variety have a laterally compressed shape, the weight of the berry is from 10 to 15 g, the taste is sweet, the aroma is apple-pineapple;
• – Alevtina- the same laterally flattened barrel-shaped fruits of green color, the weight of berries is from 12 to 20 g, the taste is sweet, the aroma is apple-pineapple-strawberry;
• – Native – late variety with barrel-shaped shortened berries, laterally flattened, fruit weight from 7 to 10 g, strong pineapple aroma.

Purple Actinidia (Actinidia purpurea)

- a powerful tree-like dioecious vine originally from China. It is shade-tolerant, blooms profusely and bears fruit. Large sweet fruits of purple color ripen at the end of September. The only disadvantage is the low cold resistance of this species. So far, only the Purpurnaya Sadovaya variety is known, whose oval maroon fruits weighing 5.5 g and 2.5 cm long have a sweet taste and a delicate marmalade aroma.

Actinidia hybrida

- the appearance of this subspecies is entirely the merit of the Kyiv breeder I.M. Shaitan, who crossed actinidia argut with actinidia purpurea, resulting in new varieties with high winter hardiness and large-fruited actinidia argut and aroma, taste and bouquet type of flowering and fruiting of actinidia purpurea. Later, the work of Shaitan was continued by the breeder Kolbasina. Varieties:

• – Kyiv Large-fruited- a late-ripening variety with large oval green berries weighing up to 10 g with a delicate sweet taste;
• – Candy- late variety with oval green fruits weighing up to 8 g with a sweet taste and caramel-fruity aroma;
• – Souvenir- the color of the fruit is greenish-red, weight - up to 8 g, the taste is sweet, the aroma is fig-candy-fruit.

Such varieties of hybrid actinidia as Kyiv Hybrid-10 and Hybrid Kolbasina are also gaining popularity.

Actinidia properties

Useful properties of actinidia.

The mature fruit of actinidia contains fiber, starch, carotene, sugars, pectin, vitamins, mineral salts, phenol carboxylic and organic acids, nitrogen-containing compounds, saponins, alkaloids and other substances necessary human body. By the amount of vitamin C, actinidia fruits are superior to oranges, lemons and even black currants. In addition to ascorbic acid, actinidia berries contain vitamins P and A, the fruit seeds are rich in fatty oils.

Other parts of the plant also have medicinal properties. For example, the bark contains tannins and cardiac glycosides, due to which it has an expectorant, sedative, blood-restoring and general tonic effect.

With belching, heartburn and other digestive disorders, actinidia is indispensable, it also contributes to faster digestion of meat and has a mild laxative effect.

The drug based on actinidia "Polygamol" has a tonic effect, enhances diuresis, supports cardiac activity. Actinidia tincture is used for angina pectoris. A decoction of the roots and an infusion of actinidia leaves are used externally to treat joint pain, sciatica, and gout. Fruit juice and peel have a wound-healing effect, increase appetite.

Care must be taken when using any product or medicine. As such, actinidia has no contraindications, but still, people suffering from thrombophlebitis, varicose veins and characterized by increased blood clotting are undesirable to use the fruits of actinidia, especially in large quantities. Overeating is generally harmful, but in the case of actinidia it can lead to intestinal upset.

And finally, a few recipes that you may find useful.

Infusion of berries: pour dry berries with water and boil them over low heat for an hour until a concentrated infusion is formed. Turn off, let cool, strain. Drink after meals in small portions to prevent cancer.

Ointment from the fruits of restorative action: rub fresh fruits, mix them with a fatty base (with lard, for example) and crushed mustard seeds. Apply for massage and after fractures.

A decoction of actinidia bark: pour 20 g of crushed bark with a glass of boiling water and place on water bath for half an hour to infuse, then cool and strain. Use three times a day, two to three tablespoons in case of metabolic disorders in the body.

Infusion of actinidia leaves and flowers: chop the flowers and leaves in an amount of 20 g, pour a glass of boiling water and let it brew for 15 minutes in a water bath, then cool and strain. Take a third of a glass three times a day for rheumatism and angina pectoris.

Actinidia Kolomikta: the secrets of agricultural technology, reproduction

My favorite actinidia

In the autumn of 1990, she acquired 4 seedlings of actinidia kolomikta, of which 3 were female and 1 male. The seedlings were 2 years old, had a good fibrous root system. Our dacha was only 2 years old at the time. We chose a landing site along the fence on the southwestern side of the site. They planted at a distance of 1.5 m from the fence and also 1.5 m between plants. In the year of planting, the seedlings were covered with spruce branches for the winter. The seedlings overwintered well and in the first year they gave a good increase, and since this is a liana, we put a temporary support. More actinidia was not removed from the support and was not covered for the winter. In the 3rd year, a permanent support was installed, which is a wall of 4 vertical pipes 3 m high and 4 horizontal bars.

In the early years, they guided the vine along the support and formed bushes. We do pruning and shaping at the beginning of summer, after the end of sap flow. We cut off thickened or damaged shoots, shorten the unripened tops of growths. We do not dig in the plants, but sprinkle them with humus, since the roots are located close to the surface.

In the first years, fertilizers were applied - complex mineral fertilizer in early spring, in autumn- superphosphate, potassium sulfate, ash.

Now, when our actinidia is a powerful wall of shoots intertwined with each other, about 4 meters high and at least 1.5 m wide, sparrows fertilize it. In spring and autumn, hordes of these birds settle in it. In the actinidia we set up two titmouses, in which sparrows also live. Birds do not touch the berries. The soil underneath became very loose. Actinidia Kolomikta loves humid air, therefore, especially on hot days, we water it by sprinkling, but not the leaves, but inside the vines.

In all these years, she never got sick. Honeysuckle bushes were planted in front of the actinidia, which shade it from below.

In the 3rd year after planting, actinidia began to bloom and pleased with the first berries.

Actinidia Kolomikta blooms from June 1 to June 5, when honeysuckle begins to sing. You enter the dacha and you feel a subtle, unique, exotic aroma. After flowering in male (mostly) plants, part of the leaves, most often from the top and on the sunny side, acquires a soft pink tone, which intensifies to bright crimson over time. This unusual transformation greatly adorns actinidia and our garden.

In 2002, when the air was -7°C on May 13, the leaves and flower buds turned black and fell off. But after the frost, new leaves and color appeared. The crop was not affected.

This year, two buckets of excellent berries were collected from 3 bushes of actinidia, not counting the crumbled ones. Her only flaw- berries ripen gradually and crumble. Actinidia ripens in early September. We collect it in one go, scatter it in a dark, cool place, and the berries ripen in 2-3 days. Ripe fruits are sweet, juicy, tender, with strong aroma pineapple. Actinidia is good both fresh and frozen, we prepare compotes and “raw” jam.

In our garden, actinidia is the most beautiful and beloved culture.

Maya Georgievna Fedorkova , Samara

How to determine the sex of actinidia?

Somehow I bought several actinidia seedlings on the market. In the 4th year they bloomed. They bloom profusely, but there are no berries. Damage by pests and diseases is not visible. Liana is already four meters in height. What's the matter? Elena Stepanova, Samara.

Actinidia- the plant is dioecious (dioecious), represented by male and female individuals. It can be assumed that you grow vines of one sex, and for fruiting it is necessary to plant seedlings of the other sex.

How to determine gender, you ask? Only in the structure of flowers. In female plants, the flowers are solitary, with a large upper ovary, pistil and numerous stamens with sterile pollen. In males, they are located in the leaf axils in the form of inflorescences of 2-3 or more flowers with well-developed stamens and no pistils. Pollination occurs with the help of wind and insects. Several plants need to be grown on the site. The optimal ratio is at least 2 male copies for 5-7 female ones. If one male plant dies, the second will replace it.

Tamara Alexandrova Yudina , head department of horticulture

Rules for rooting Actinidia Kolomikta

The rooting process of actinidia proceeds relatively easily: cuttings, layering, dividing the bush; with and without stimulants. In the year of rooting, segments of shoots almost do not form increments: mostly 3-5, rarely 10 cm. A month later (in August) they form weak roots and give small increments. Immediately after rooting, having an unbranched root system, they are only 70-80% ready for transplantation. This means that out of 10 transplanted plants, only 7-8 take root in a new place. If we postpone the process of transplanting cuttings rooted in the first year until the natural fall of the leaves (in October), then this percentage increases to 90-95. 95 percent means that along with the 9 strong surviving plants, the 10th weakened one may or may not survive. When transplanted at the age of two (shoot growth up to 50 cm), almost all actinidia rooted in this way survive, by 98-100%.

In practice, this means: 9 - take root easily, 10th- having been ill, it also takes root, but it grows slower than the others in the year of planting. How better conditions when transplanted, the more likely the 10th weakened plant (and other similar plants that make up 10% of the rest) will survive.

What factors determine these conditions in the cold autumn-winter period? To begin with, frosts down to -40 ° C after natural leaf fall are not terrible for actinidia. Only good drainage (from getting wet), an excess of organic matter and partial shade (from the sun) matter. In a relatively open sun, shading of the lower basal part of actinidia is mandatory. Depending on the soil conditions, these rules, even within the same Samara region, should be adjusted. For example, in the southern part of the region (the region of Samara, Kinel, Chapaevsk, etc., where heavy loamy soils predominate), drainage is needed. For this purpose, sand (preferably coarse-grained river sand) can be used, which is mixed with this soil and with well-rotted organic matter.- manure or compost (take equal parts). In the north (Tolyatti region, Kurumoch village, Semeikino village, Sokskiye dachas, etc., light loamy and sandy loamy soils predominate) you can do without sand. Here they are limited only to the introduction of organic matter (1 part of humus and 2 parts of soil). However, in such conditions of good natural drainage, soil moisture should be carefully controlled. A good result is given by systematic (2-3 times per summer) mulching (covering) of the root zone with any compost (from above, all this can be covered with sawdust). It is impossible to overmoisten, otherwise actinidia may die from wetting the root system.

Gennady Ivanovich Sobolev , Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, Samara

Actinidia Kolomikta from seeds

Cold period of the year- best time for stratification- seedbed preparation perennial seeds. I will stop at one- perennial liana actinidia kolomikte.

Unfortunately, it is not yet easy to purchase actinidia seedlings. However, it is not difficult to grow full-fledged plants from seeds. In addition, seedlings better adapt to local climatic conditions, unlike seedlings brought from other regions. Seeds require stratification.

I propose a method for its implementation.

Seeds of ripened berries should be poured into a nylon bag and placed in a 0.5-liter jar, half filled with well-washed, calcined in the oven and slightly (!) Moistened sand. Cover with a lid with holes and refrigerate (temperature from +2 to +5°C) for 3.5 months. Every 10-12 days, the bag of seeds should be taken out of the sand and ventilated. If mold appears, then rinse the seeds in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, sterilize the sand and continue stratification again.

Then sow the seeds in a box- a greenhouse to put on the south windowsill. The composition of the soil in the box: equal amounts of sand, forest land, well-rotted mullein and peat. Sowing depth 1-2 mm. Water with warm water once a week. In the phase of 3-4 leaves, the plants should be gradually hardened, slightly opening the greenhouse.

Hardened seedlings should be planted in the ground in early June, after the threat of frost has passed.

Ryapolov I.D. , Kursk

Stranger Actinidia Kolomikta

For the broad masses of gardeners, actinidia still continues to be a curiosity. But it is not only tasty, but also a very valuable food culture. In addition to a set of vitamins, it contains a number of biologically active substances, including the enzyme actinidin, which promotes the digestion of meat and other products. The aroma of actinidia fruits may resemble strawberries, bananas, watermelons, apples, but most often- a pineapple.

In Russia, mainly actinidia kolomikta and its hybrids are cultivated. Why is this species so popular with us? Yes, because it is the most winter-hardy and unpretentious. But at the same time, its fruits are small, weighing 1.5-4 g (in cultivars- up to 7-8 g), are prone to strong shedding. Bushes of medium height, the yield is negligible.

Another type of actinidia- argument- is a very vigorous climber. It grows mainly in the Primorsky Territory and Sakhalin, in the climatic conditions of central Russia it freezes to the level of snow.

“Chicks” kiwi

Breeders thought about how to improve the nutritional and commercial qualities of actinidia fruits at the beginning of the last century. The result was the plant we all know well as the kiwi. By the way, the kiwi bird- emblem of New Zealand.

Actinidia breeding work was also carried out in our country, and they continue to this day. In Moscow, a number of varieties of actinidia kolomikta were obtained. The novelties were distinguished by rather large fruits with good palatability.

But even more promising were the works of the Kyiv scientist, candidate of biological sciences I. Shaitan. He conducted experiments on interspecific crossing of actinidia kolomikta, argutta and purple. New hybrid varieties- September, Kyiv hybrid, Kyiv large-fruited (anniversary), Purple garden, Curly. True, they turned out to be less winter-hardy than kolomikta, but in culture they also withstand frosts down to -30 ... 35 ° C. At the same time, they are distinguished by high growth vigor, large-fruitedness (fruit weight from 8 to 25 g), good taste and high yield. To date, they are the most promising for cultivation in middle lane Russia.

"Emerald" liana

In 1989, after stratification, I sowed the seeds of the Kyiv hybrid and Kyiv large-fruited. Of course, hybrids do not transmit maternal properties to their “children” during seed reproduction. However, the results made me happy.

Of the six plants, two turned out to be “muzhiks”, the rest, of course,- "young ladies". The males differed from others in their great strength of growth, gray shoots and dark green glossy leaves.

Of the four female vines, one has grown to be the tallest and most “prolific”. The berries are large (weighing 9-10 g), green in color, with a strong smell of pineapple. I named this actinidia Emerald .

Another "sister" is very similar to the first, only the fruits are smaller. But the third one has berries weighing 14-15 g, green, with a pink tint. The flesh is also pink, with a taste reminiscent of pineapple. The bushes themselves, however, turned out to be less vigorous. The yield is very high, the fruits ripen a little later than other seedlings. I named this variety Super. The fourth “young lady” turned out to be even less vigorous. And her yield is lower than others. Berries weighing 7-8 g, bright pink, sweet, without aroma. This actinidia was named Ruby. In all vines, the fruits "keep well done." But when fully ripe, some of them still begin to crumble. However, with the exception of Ruby. This berry does not fall off at all, even after the plant sheds all the leaves. It is at this moment that it is best to harvest the rubies.

10 years later

It was not by chance that I indicated the year in which I sowed seedlings of hybrid actinidia. After all, more than 10 years have passed since then. It's time to take stock.

The first thing I note- creepers in my area never froze, despite the low air temperatures in winter. True, I place plantings only in low-ventilated places in the garden, under the protection of buildings. Plants planted in summer cottages on the banks of the Volga, where strong winds blow in winter, freeze to the level of snow.

Actinidia tolerates summer heat well. But in very dry periods, her leaves may lose turgor. After all, the bulk of the roots of the plant is in the surface layer of the soil. Therefore, daily watering is required in the heat. It is better to spend them in the late afternoon, irrigating the crown and trunk circle. The latter is also good to mulch half-rotted leaf humus or other improvised material and shade with shields. I install shields made of slate or picket fence 1-1.2 m high at right angles to each other in the direction from north to south. The soil is best watered by drip.

Actinidia, especially young ones, are quite sensitive to spring frosts. Due to the very early sap flow, their bark can crack in the lower part of the trunk when the juice freezes. To delay sap flow, shields that shade the near-trunk circle in summer are also left for the winter. In spring, the snow in the shade melts more slowly, and the vines will “sleep” longer.

Chunky "men"

When planting actinidia, it should be noted that this plant does not tolerate stagnant meltwater: freezing in winter, they can damage the bark. Therefore, seedlings are best placed on a small, barely noticeable mound or slope (preferably northern).

hybrid actinidia- very vigorous climber. For normal development, it needs a strong support. For this purpose, you can use a trellis 2-3 m high, but it is not very convenient to harvest from it. It is better to grow actinidia in a gallery, the height of which should be optimal- with the expectation that when collecting fruits do not use stepladders. Instead of such a gallery, you can use a gazebo or a canopy over the parking lot.

Many gardeners believe that actinidia does not need pruning or shaping. From my own experience, I have found that this is not the case. In the absence of annual pruning, fruitful vines quickly go to the periphery of the bush, and perennial wood is exposed.

Forming and pruning actinidia is similar to that of vigorous grapes, but much easier. In autumn, after the end of the growing season, broken, underdeveloped and thickening branches are cut out. All annual shoots cut off by 50-70 cm, since all the fruit buds of the plant are located within this length. Keep in mind that actinidia cannot be cut in the spring. Otherwise, she will “cry” bitterly, that is, sap will flow from the wounds.

Pruning actinidia also depends on its gender. "Men" are circumcised more than "women". As a result, the bushes become shorter and stockier. The main purpose of such pruning is to provide female vines with pollen in sufficient quantities. For the same reason, “muzhiks” are planted separately from females, at a distance of 5-10 m from the latter. And preferably from the side where the wind blows. So that, therefore, he helped actinidia multiply. One male liana will pollinate 3-5 female ones.

The best way to propagate varietal actinidia- green cuttings. At the same time, all varietal characteristics are preserved. Plants begin to bear fruit at 4-5 years. Lignified autumn cuttings do not take root. By sowing seeds, you will receive seedlings with completely new properties. Sometimes they are superior to the mother, but more often- yield to them. For sowing, only seeds of the last harvest are used, which must undergo a 2-month stratification. Germination is high, but about half or even slightly more seedlings will male. "Peasants" at first can be recognized only by more intensive growth. More reliable information about gender can be obtained only after 5-6 years, during the flowering period. Male plants bloom, as a rule, a year earlier than female ones. And their flowers are collected in large brushes. Whereas on the female lianas the flowers “sit in splendid isolation” or in pairs or threes. In the center of such a flower is the future green ovary.

Pineapple flavor

Actinidia Kolomikta- very tasty and healthy fruit. It is best to eat it raw to avoid loss of vitamins and minerals. nutrients. You can also make raw jam from its berries.

I do it like this. I lay out freshly picked fruits in 1-2 layers on a baking sheet. There they lie for a day or two until fully ripened. Then I wash them, cut off the stalks and tails. I put a small amount of berries in an enameled cup, knead them well with a wooden pusher. I transfer the liquid mass into an enameled basin. I'm taking the next batch. When everything is mashed, I add sugar (1-1.2 kg per 1 kg of berries). Mix everything well and leave for a day for complete dissolution of sugar. I keep it in the refrigerator.

Raw jam from actinidia Kolomikta is very pleasant to the taste, besides it has a strong pineapple flavor. So, you have a chance to pleasantly surprise your family and guests by serving this dish to the New Year's table.

Olga Pavlovna Andrianova , Saratov

actinidia flower has the following botanical characteristics: homeland - subtropics of East Asia and the Far East. Actinidia - liana, without support in greenhouses and winter gardens reaches no more than 1.5-2 m. Shoots are smooth, slightly pubescent. The flowers are white, slightly pinkish, with a pleasant, delicate aroma. The plant is dioecious, so you need to choose a female and male specimen.

The fruit is an edible berry.

The description of actinidia should begin with the leaves: they are heart-shaped, usually large in size and change their color depending on the season - in spring they have a pleasant bronze hue, then turn green, and during the flowering period their tips change color from white to pink, from pink to raspberry.

The appearance of the flower will give the garden a special tropical atmosphere and will be pleasant at any time. The color can also vary depending on the variety - from pure white to purple.

Thanks to many years of work by gardeners and scientists, many amateurs can grow it in other climatic conditions, while carefully caring for the plant.

Many are also interested in the question: how does actinidia bloom? This usually happens in May - June. Shoots often need additional support for better growth and fruiting.

To better understand what actinidia looks like, look at the photo below:

For greater diversity and the ability to adapt the plant to our climate, different kinds and varieties of actinidia.

Actinidia sinensis

Cultivated in closed ground Actinidia sinensis ( Actinidia chinensissin.A. deliciosa) , the fruits of which are called kiwi.

By breeding work with Chinese actinidia in New Zealand, varieties were bred:

Women's:

"Blake" (" Blake»)

"Bruno" (" Bruno»)

"Hayward" (" hayward»)

Men's:

"Matua" (" matua»)

"Tomuri" (" Tomuri»)

Actinidia varieties in the photo and description of the species are offered to see below:

The characteristics of the actinidia variety are different for each, some of them may even have fundamental differences.

The description of the varieties of actinidia and its species plays a very important role, as with its help you will be able to find the perfect plant for you.

For example, view A. Deliciosa, that is, gourmet actinidia, can reach up to 9 meters in height. As a rule, its flowers are bisexual, unisexual are rare. Its flowering is characterized by a yellowish color with many stamens, and large leaves are covered with red pubescence. Basically, it is this species that is used as the basis for experiments and the breeding of other plant varieties.

View Actinidia chinensis(Chinese actinidia) - the most famous among gardeners, since it is on its vines that exotic fruit kiwi. The length of such a plant can be 8 meters, where you can see climbing shoots and big leaves with a red tint.

A fairly popular type is Arguta, or rather Actinidia acute. It is considered one of the largest and most prolific, it produces the largest fruits, which can sometimes reach a weight of 12 grams. Its flowering is neutral white with a green undertone, without a pronounced smell. It is the liana of the Argut species that allows you to collect the richest harvest.

Actinidia Kolomikta is the closest relative of the kiwi. Due to the bright and unusual color of the leaves and flowers, it is very often used precisely as ornamental plant. Colorful leaves, a smooth trunk of a uniform chestnut shade will not only decorate your garden and greenhouse, but also give you the fruits of a juicy and exotic fruit.

Below we offer to see a photo of flowers of actinidia Kolomikta:

Generous fruit varieties such as:

Magpie. The fruits are cylindrical, slightly elongated, are only olive in color, sweet in taste with a pronounced aroma.

Festive. They have fruits of a similar shape as those of the Magpie variety. The fruit is dark green or yellowish in color, smells like an apple, may have a characteristic slightly pronounced sourness.

Sweet. A very sweet variety with medium-sized green or yellow-green fruits.

Gourmand. The tree of this variety produces round, large fruits, sweet and sour taste.

Varieties are similar to each other, but differ in yield and taste characteristics.

How to distinguish the male flowers of the actinidia plant from the female?

With the growing popularity of this plant, with the process of breeding various varieties, many are interested in the question: how to grow actinidia on suburban area? This is not a particularly whimsical plant, but you will need to pay attention to it and follow the recommendations from experienced gardeners in order to get a good harvest and a decorative element in the garden.

So, how to grow actinidia? You need to start by buying a seedling. Remember that this is a dioecious plant, so you need to choose a female and male specimen, and this can only be determined during flowering. Both can grow from seeds, but you do not have the opportunity and high chances to predict the best outcome.

How to distinguish a male actinidia plant from a female one in order to get beautiful flowers and good fruit? Flowers female single and they have a pistil and the embryo of a future berry.

The flower of the male individual consists of inflorescences, usually three flowers are placed on one stalk. It lacks the germ and pistil, and also has many stamens. At the same time, the female individual has fewer of them, they are shorter and rarer.

Planting and caring for actinidia in the open field: how to plant a vine (with video)

When planting actinidia, female and male flowers should be placed in a specific sequence and following ratios, which may vary depending on the plant variety.

When buying a seedling, you should pay attention to a well-packed root system. She is very vulnerable and can die in 5-10 minutes under the influence of sunlight. It is necessary to pay attention to how and what the root is packed in, in order to be completely sure that the plant is healthy, there are no damages on it, and it will easily take root in your area.

For a plant such as actinidia, planting and care in the open field has importance. Choose your landing site carefully.

Where and how to plant actinidia? Remember that actinidia indoors needs a bright, sunny location where it can bear fruit. In case of landing in winter optimum temperature- not higher than 5-10 °С. The plant tolerates light partial shade, but the fruits ripen only in the sun, so it is worth finding a place where both shade and sun will be combined.

Most of all, she loves moist, loose soil. The ideal option is to plant on a hill or slope so that excess water can drain and not linger in the roots. auspicious time for planting consider the end of spring or the beginning of summer.

The planting hole must be carefully processed, as well as the roots of actinidia, and fertilize the ground. Do not fertilize with materials such as lime or fresh manure, this will not benefit the plant. Before planting, it is necessary to moisten the root system - pour it with several liters of water. Drainage should be placed at the bottom of the pit.

See the video below for the rules for planting actinidia and caring for it:

How to grow actinidia in a summer cottage and how to care for a liana

Growing conditions are very important for actinidia. The plant does not like and does not tolerate dry soil, dry air, and is also quite whimsical to the "neighbors". If you plant a vine next to an apple tree, it will harm it, but currant bushes or leguminous plants on the contrary, they will favorably influence growth and fruiting.

It is known that the smell of creeper affects cats like valerian, which can affect the roots, leaves or fruits. Therefore, it is worthwhile to secure actinidia in advance and protect it with a small fence.

The question of how to care for actinidia should not be difficult. key point in growing actinidia is caring for it, which includes regular weeding, getting rid of pests and diseases.

Liana needs abundant watering in the warm season, in winter - extremely moderate. During the growing season (April - September) once a month, top dressing is carried out with complete mineral fertilizer. Actinidia up to 3-4 years old must be transplanted annually in autumn or early spring, then once every 3-4 years. Such manipulations will allow your plant to grow faster and bear more fruit.

Loves actinidia planting and cultivation, which are carried out with love and inspiration. Care may also include garter, fertilizer and mulching.

How to cut and shape actinidia: pruning rules

How to form actinidia is of interest to many gardeners. This will create species diversity in the garden or greenhouse and get more fruits.

An important place is occupied by pruning actinidia. This procedure contributes to the optimal density of the branches and their length. It is not recommended to carry it out in early spring during the period of sap flow, since because of this the plant may die due to lack of moisture. According to agrotechnical rules, pruning should not be carried out at the end of summer, because new branches simply do not have time to get stronger and die during the first frosts.

How to prune actinidia correctly for maximum results? Optimal time the period during the flowering of the plant and immediately after it is considered. Initially, the strongest branches are selected, which will be the main ones, and the others are cut to the very foundation.

After some time, usually a year, side shoots are formed from the main branches, from which the strongest and strongest are also selected and they are tied to a support, the rest are pruned. Such a procedure must be carried out regularly to maintain actinidia in good and healthy condition and eliminate weak and dry shoots.

Reproduction of actinidia by layering and cuttings: how to properly propagate and root the vine

Reproduction of this plant can occur in several ways:

• Arc layering;
• cuttings;
• Seeds.

Reproduction of actinidia by layering is the easiest and most affordable method. In the spring, after the end of sap flow, a low and strong shoot is selected, which leans and presses against the ground. Its end should rise above the ground, where the resulting mound is sprinkled with sawdust. It is necessary to monitor the absence of weeds, and after a while the shoot separates from the main plant and releases its own roots.

How to propagate actinidia cuttings? If we talk about green cuttings, then it is carried out at the end of July, when the fruits begin to grow actively, and the shoots become strong with a brown tint. Strong shoots are selected and cut to a length of 1 meter. Later, their ends are placed in water and stored indoors, where they are cut to 15 cm.

Please note that each cutting should have buds, preferably at least three, and you need to be very careful not to damage them. In no case should the shoot be allowed to dry out; it must be stored in water.

Cuttings are planted in a greenhouse, where there should be pre-prepared places for them. When landing, pay attention to the fact that the middle kidney should be clearly above the ground. The stalk must be abundantly sprayed with water 2-5 times a day, and in the spring they can already be transplanted to a permanent place.

Propagation of actinidia by cuttings can be done with the help of lignified cuttings, which are cut in winter, tied in a bunch and stored upright. It is best to store them in a box filled with sand or damp moss in a cool place. Later, they are planted in prepared soil in a greenhouse and watered a couple of times a day.

How to root actinidia, according to agrotechnical rules? Just! Often, combined cuttings are also used, when at the beginning of summer the shoot of the plant is simply transplanted into open ground. If you use this method, the root system develops best, which turns out to be very strong and resistant to various factors.

Actinidia seed propagation method

Reproduction of actinidia by seeds is also a fairly simple and popular method. Seeds are collected from mature and healthy fruits, which are washed under running water and left to dry.

In early November, actinidia seeds are soaked in water for 4 days, while it is necessary to change the water to fresh every day. Then for two months the seeds are placed in a box with sand, taken out once a week, ventilated and washed. In March, the container with sand and seeds is moved to a moderately warm room.

It is worth noting that you need to carefully monitor the temperature, otherwise the seeds go into a dormant state. In mid-July, seedlings are transplanted into a greenhouse when a couple of leaves form on them. They need to be watered abundantly and regularly cleaned of weeds. After a few years, when it will be possible to determine the sex of the plant, the seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place.

Growing and caring for actinidia is important precisely at the initial stage, when your work forms the future plant.

Uses of actinidia

Actinidia can be used for landscaping winter gardens, insulated large balconies, loggias, verandas. Its fruits are very useful for the intestines and other organs. They can be used raw, as well as marinated, dried, made various preserves and jams, cook compotes and jelly.

It is also able to cleanse your body and give it lightness. Also, the fruits of this plant are actively used in folk medicine because they are known for their healing properties. People have long adapted to cook various decoctions and tinctures that help to cope with colds, get rid of worms, problems with the gastrointestinal tract and simply strengthen the immune system.

If you take care of the plant right away, after a while it will give you incredible aroma, tasty and juicy fruits, and will also become original decoration any area!

Actinidia is an exotic plant that is famous for its delicious, beneficial fruits and is a close relative of the well-known kiwi. Thanks to the breeding of varieties that are unpretentious and adaptable to various climatic conditions, actinidia can be without special efforts grow in the garden next to the usual fruit trees and shrubs.

What is actinidia

Actinidia in appearance resembles a kiwi without villi

Actinidia is a deciduous perennial plant (lignified liana) with a superficial fibrous rhizome and branched lateral shoots, reaching up to one and a half to two meters in length. Its stems are quite flexible and covered with a smooth brownish bark. The leaves of the plant are oval or ovate, the color of which varies depending on the species and can be green, red-green, with a yellowish border or a bright pink tip.

Actinidia is a dioecious plant. There are "individuals" only with male flowers Or only with women. The flowers are small, odorless, may be single or collected in inflorescences. Actinidia begins to bloom at the age of five to seven years in June-July. Pollination occurs with the help of wind, bumblebees and bees, due to which, already in September, fruits begin to ripen on female plants - oblong, tasty and very healthy berries size from 1 to 8 cm, depending on the type of plant.

Breeders have bred many varieties of actinidia, and it can be not only green. Pictured variety Kens Red

The cultivation of actinidia in Russia began at the beginning of the 20th century in St. Petersburg in the Imperial Botanical Garden. A huge contribution to the development of culture was made by I. V. Michurin, who in the 1930s was actively engaged in the breeding of new varieties (especially winter-hardy ones), which are distinguished not only by valuable taste qualities, but also by high yields.

Actinidia fruits have many useful properties:

• are a source of vitamins and minerals (especially vitamin C);
• strengthen the immune system, making it more resistant to various infections;
• stabilize the work of the cardiovascular system (reduce pressure, improve vascular tone and blood composition);
• normalize work gastrointestinal tract(eliminate heaviness and heartburn);
• contribute to the removal of toxins and radionuclides from tissues;
• favorably affect the functioning of the lungs and bronchi;
• improve skin condition (increase elasticity, tone, saturate with vitamins).

Views from photo

In total, there are more than 70 species of actinidia, including varieties with both pronounced fruit and decorative properties. But the main species that are most often found in gardens are three.

Kolomikta is popularly called the Amur gooseberry.

This species is the most frost-resistant and can withstand winter colds down to -42 degrees without shelter. It reaches a length of up to 5-10 m. The leaflets are ovate, serrate, covered along the veins with a red pile and “attached” to reddish petioles. During flowering, the tip of the leaf becomes whitish-pink, acquiring a bright crimson hue over time. In autumn, the foliage turns incredibly beautiful yellow-pink and red-violet tones. Elongated green fruits 2–2.5 cm in size ripen by early September and have a thin skin, fragrant aroma and sweet and sour taste.

About 15–20 kg of berries are removed from an adult plant

This is a larger plant, the length of the vines of which reaches 36 m. Rounded oval leaves have a "satin" texture with small teeth along the edge. With good care, it quickly forms beautiful "walls" of a dark green hue. This species is distinguished by abundant fruiting and good preservation of the ovary even under adverse conditions. The fruits ripen by September, reach a diameter of 3 cm, have a delicate taste and, depending on the variety, can be either green or purple.

This species has weakly branching shoots, reaching a length of up to 5 m. Oval pointed leaves partially change their color during growth. Young leaves are considered edible and taste like watercress. The orange-colored fruits contain beta-carotene and have a special, fig-like taste.

Actinidia polygamum does not have high frost resistance

Is it successfully cultivated in the regions

The listed varieties are prone to certain requirements, so not every one of them will grow equally well, for example, in the north or in the southern regions.

Moscow and Moscow region

Subject to planting conditions and sufficient care, actinidia in this region takes root well and brings stable yields. Different varieties of the kolomikta species feel best here, which can do without shelter, since they are adapted to average daily winter temperatures down to -20 ° C.

Leningrad region

Actinidia kolomikta is also widespread here, which is resistant to low temperatures. The most popular varieties are Lakomka, Sugar, Fantasia, Sweet Tooth, Fairy.

In the middle lane

For this region, varieties are suitable that tolerate a changeable climate well with a characteristic not very warm summer and frosty, with frequent thaws, in winter. The low-maintenance actinidia kolomikta, and argut, which should be covered in winter to prevent freezing, are successfully cultivated here.

On South

Private farms in Crimea have entire plantations of Actinidia

The southern climate is especially favorable for the cultivation of all types of actinidia. Here they have chic foliage and bring rich harvests. In addition to fruit purposes, actinidia is also grown here as an ornamental plant.

In Siberia

In this region, actinidia is the least susceptible to frost due to the late emergence of foliage and the formation of new shoots instead of branches that have frozen. For good yields, the plant must be planted in shady areas, providing painstaking care. Suitable Kind for Siberia - kolomikta, in particular, its varieties: Sakhalinskaya, Universitetskaya, Priusadebnaya, etc.

In the Urals

Hot summers and snowy winters in the Urals make it possible to grow actinidia kolomikta here. Winter-hardy varieties of this species show themselves well during the growing season (from early May to late October) and bring a good harvest, especially: Waffle, Maritsa, Uslada, Robinson, etc.

In the Far East

In this region, two types of actinidia are cultivated - kolomikta and arguta. Moreover, gardeners prefer kolomikta more for its unpretentiousness in care and endurance, especially noting the incredibly sweet varieties (Sweet Tooth, Sugar, Honey).

Role in landscape design

Actinidia is a wonderful ornamental plant. At the time of flowering, it decorates the garden with flowers with a delicate aroma, and by autumn it adds bright colors with its variegated leaves incredible shades. In landscape design, it can be used for:

The use of a vertical support will help set the desired direction for the growth of the vine, and landing near the walls will allow her to feel most comfortable, provide maximum growth and branching.

What conditions must be provided before landing

When selecting seedlings, take an interest in their "gender": males will not bear fruit

Before proceeding with the landing of actinidia, you need to take care of some important points:

1. Selection of seedlings. You should buy only those in which the root system is covered, which means it is protected from damage. She is very vulnerable, and therefore even a short stay of bare roots in the wind or heat can cause significant harm. In addition, the age of seedlings should be no more than three years.
2. The correct selection of male and female "individuals". For full fruiting on 5-10 "ladies" it is necessary to plant one "cavalier", and the same type as them;
3. Choice of location. Since actinidia is a climbing plant, already before planting it is necessary to choose a support that will ensure its growth in a vertical plane. To do this, you can use trellises placed around the perimeter of the site, or plant actinidia along the wall (houses, gazebos, hedges), which will protect it from freezing in severe winter. Do not plant a vine under a drain and in places where water stagnates, as well as under direct sunlight. The ideal location for her is openwork penumbra.
4. The soil. Actinidia is unpretentious and grows normally on the ground, where nitrogen and phosphorus are contained in small quantities. At the same time, slightly acidic and neutral soil is considered optimal for it, and alkaline, clayey, with close groundwater. Under such conditions, the plant will stop developing and may even die.
5. Plant protection. During the first three years, all types of actinidia are quite vulnerable and often suffer from cat claws. To protect the plant, if cats have access to it, you can protect it from all sides with a net.

Landing

Give your plant a strong base

The optimal time for planting actinidia is spring or autumn (a couple of weeks before the first frost). The landing process consists of several stages:

1. Prepare landing pits measuring 60 by 60 cm at a distance of one and a half - two and a half meters from each other;
2. At the bottom of the pit, a ten-centimeter layer of drainage is laid (expanded clay, broken red brick, crushed stone or pebbles);
3. Rich soil, humus (10 kg), superphosphate (150 g) are added to each pit, wood ash(2 cups), and on top - a layer of earth without fertilizers;
4. They make a small mound from the top layer of the earth and set a seedling on it without destroying the earthen coma around the rhizome;
5. Carefully fall asleep and lightly tamp the hole so that the root collar is at ground level. At the same time, it is not necessary to make a hole around the seedling in order to prevent rainwater from stagnating;
6. Water each plant with two or three buckets of water;
7. Mulch, pouring about 5-7 cm large pine bark, rotted sawdust, compost or peat;
8. The first time (5–10 days) after planting, the plants are shaded from the direct sun with paper or cloth.

What kind of care to provide

Actinidia, regardless of the region of growth, requires certain conditions that are easy to create with proper care.

Watering

The plant must be both watered and loosened

Proper watering plays an important role in the care of actinidia. If the soil is not sufficiently moist, the plant may shed its foliage, slow down in growth and not prepare for the winter period. It also has a negative effect on excessive moisture.

The optimal irrigation regime for the vine is two to four buckets per plant at least once a week, after which the ground around should be weeded, loosened and a new layer of mulch added. During a particularly hot summer, you can increase the amount of water to six to eight buckets.

pruning

Plants that have reached four or five years of age begin to prune in order to prevent the growth of dense thickets that cease to bloom and bear fruit. The shoots that drown out the crown are cut off, and the tips are pinched to increase branching.

Actinidia is pruned in the fall after the leaves have fallen. It is highly undesirable to do this in the spring, because at this time the cut branches begin to secrete abundant juice, which leads to the drying of the plant. If damage has appeared during the winter, they are cut off at the end of spring - at the beginning of summer, when, after the intensive growth of young shoots, the line between living and dried areas is clearly visible.

At the age of seven to ten years, the plant needs rejuvenation: replacing one old branch with a young vegetative shoot.

Trellis

Like any liana, actinidia needs a strong support.

In the second year after planting for actinidia, it is imperative to install a trellis - a kind of support for the plant, which must be at least 2.5 m high. To form a plant on a bush, only a couple of main shoots are left, and the rest are cut off. A year later, one of the old shoots is removed again, replacing it with another, carrying out the procedure every three to four years in the future.

top dressing

For the season, it is desirable to carry out three dressings of actinidia:

• spring (late April-early May), with the addition nitrogen-potassium fertilizers to stimulate the growth of new shoots;
• summer (June-July), with the addition of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, which have a positive effect on flowering and fruit set;
• autumn (September - October, after harvest), for which you should purchase a special fertilizer "For autumn use", which provides the plant with a good wintering and energy for the next growth season.

Pest and disease control

Actinidia is quite resistant to diseases and pests. In order to protect the plant from adverse effects for a long time, it is only necessary to provide it with the right full care.

To protect the plant from the appearance of spots on the leaves caused by various fungal infections, it is important to regularly cut off damaged or dried branches and fruits.

To prevent the appearance of leaf beetles on plants that eat buds and damage leaves, actinidia should be treated every spring with Bordeaux liquid, a solution of soda ash (0.5%).

Reproduction of actinidia

Males have almost no stamens in flowers.

To successfully propagate actinidia, you need to know several important conditions.

How to distinguish female from male

The ability to distinguish between a male and a female plant appears only during the flowering period of actinidia, which begins in June. You can do this by carefully examining the flowers:

• in male plant the inflorescence consists of three flowers, in the center of which there is no embryo of the fetus, but there are many stamens. During flowering, fallen flowers are visible under the bush;
• in a female plant the flowers are located on the stalk one at a time, and in the center of each it is easy to notice the ovary of the fruit with a ray-shaped stigma. The flowers have few stamens and are short.

How to distinguish female actinidia flowers from male: video

Propagation by cuttings and seeds

Vegetative propagation using cuttings allows you to determine the sex of the resulting seedling without waiting for flowering, as well as preserve all the characteristics of a particular variety.

There are two main ways of such reproduction:

• Green cuttings, which are carried out at the beginning of summer by cutting one-year-old shoots up to 50-100 cm long. Pruning should be done in the morning, putting the shoots in a jar of water. Later, each branch is cut into cuttings (10-15 cm each) with three leaves. The lower cut is made under the leaf (the leaf itself is removed), and the upper one is 4 cm higher than the leaf. It is necessary to root such cuttings in a greenhouse where moist sandy-humus soil has been prepared. Holding at an angle of 60 °, the cuttings are deepened to the middle bud at a distance of about 5–10 cm from each other and moistened by watering and spraying. AT autumn period the cuttings are sprinkled with fallen leaves, and they are planted in open ground before the movement of the juice begins.
• Rooting of lignified cuttings, carried out in late autumn. The shoots are cut and tied in bunches, stored in a vertical position in a box with sand at a temperature not exceeding 1–5 ° C. In early spring, the cuttings are planted in a greenhouse. They are cared for in the same way as the green ones.

For seed propagation, seeds can be purchased at a store or collected on their own by mashing the pulp of a ripe fruit through gauze, washing and drying the seeds in a cool, dark place.

Before sowing, the seeds are prepared:

1. soaked in warm water for 4 days with daily replacement;
2. put into a stocking and kept for three weeks in moist sand at a temperature of 18–20 ° C, removing and washing weekly;
3. in the first days of January, the container with sand is placed in the refrigerator for two months, continuing weekly washings;
4. in early March, the seeds are sown in containers with mixed soddy soil and sand to a depth of 0.5 cm, kept at room temperature and diffused bright light, waiting for seedlings to appear after a few days. Be sure to spray and water the crops, and after sprouts with three leaves appear in the summer, transplant them into a greenhouse, where they will be for several years until the first flowering. And only after it will be possible to determine the sex of the plants, they are planted in open ground in a permanent place.