We make a false ceiling with our own hands: step by step instructions. Do-it-yourself suspended ceiling without effort and special costs How to make a suspended ceiling

Today, more and more often, false ceilings of various types and their various materials appear in apartments and houses. The advantages of such structures can be called short terms and relative ease of installation. If the art of surfaces is far from accessible to everyone, then any homeowner who knows how to use a drill, a jigsaw and a screwdriver can probably make an even installation of the frame and installation of certain panels on it. Of course, there are also suspended ceilings, the installation of which is best left to specialists, since the technology for their installation will require certain qualifications. Such ceilings include, for example, their stretch version.

Do-it-yourself suspended ceiling can be made from drywall, slabs made from various materials, wooden lining, etc. To make a decision on the right choice of design for its independent execution, it is worth considering them in more detail.

Varieties of suspended ceilings

As a rule, most suspended ceilings are mounted on a frame made of wooden bars or metal profiles. This design becomes the basis for attaching the selected skin to it.

Metal elements are also used for stretch surfaces, but this type of design is fundamentally different from other ceilings.

The Armstrong suspended ceiling systems stand somewhat apart, which have become quite popular due to their aesthetic appearance and the ability to easily repair, quickly replacing, if necessary, the required number of damaged panels.

Suspended plasterboard ceiling

Drywall is an environmentally friendly building material that does not emit absolutely no harmful fumes into the environment. According to this parameter, it is ideal for finishing almost any surface in residential premises.

Due to the fact that several types of this material are produced, it can be used not only in rooms with normal conditions, but also in rooms where humidity exceeds the norm, for example, in a bathroom, in a kitchen, etc. In addition, there are varieties of this material that can be used for ceilings and from high temperatures that inevitably occur, for example, when melting a fireplace or stove.

Each of the types of drywall has its own marking and a certain tinting of the outer cardboard surface:

Marking	Standard sheet size, mm	Coating color	Marking color	Appearance
GKL (normal)	1200×2500 thickness 6; 9.5; 12.5mm	Grey	Blue
GKLV (moisture resistant)	1200×2500 thickness 6; 9.5; 12.5mm	Green	Blue
GKLO (fire resistant)	1200×2500; 1200×2600 thickness 9.5; 12.5mm	Pink or gray	Red
GKLVO (fire-resistant and moisture-resistant)	1200×2500 thickness 9.5; 12.5mm	Grey-green	Red

Suspended stretch ceilings

Stretch ceilings can completely change and visually expand the space. They can be absolutely white, solid color, have a regular or spatial pattern, which, for example, imitates the vault of heaven with floating clouds or tree crowns.

Stretch ceilings can be made of fiberglass, knitted polyester impregnated with polyurethane, or PVC film.

The installation of the canvas takes place on special aluminum profiles fixed on the walls, or on an installed frame, if the ceiling is planned to be combined. In the latter case, the overall structure may consist of several materials, such as plasterboard along the edges of the ceiling and a tensile structure in the middle.

Combined ceiling with stretch and plasterboard sections

This type of ceiling has many advantages, which include moisture resistance, aesthetic appearance, good adaptation to any interior, durability without loss of decorative qualities. However, the installation of such original systems should still be carried out by specialists with relevant experience and special equipment.

Raster or cassette ceilings

Raster or cassette ceilings are called ceilings, consisting of a metal frame suspended on brackets to the ceiling, forming cells of the required size. into which finished panels of the correct form are then laid. Panel dimensions are different, but in the vast majority of models standard blocks of 600 × 600 or 600 × 1200 mm are used.

This type of suspended ceilings also includes the Armstrong systems, which are often used for finishing offices, public buildings, etc. However, they are widely used in private construction. It is the Armstrong suspension system that will be the subject of further presentation.

Prices for popular types of plastic ceiling panels

Plastic ceiling panels

Suspended ceiling system "Armstrong"

This ceiling system was developed by the British company Armstrong during the period of the construction boom, when it became necessary to quickly design ceilings in sales areas with very large areas. In addition to the speed of installation, such structures were subject to the requirements of aesthetics, accuracy and, together with themes - restraint decorating design. As a result of the implementation of these conditions, a design was born, which is now used all over the world, and not only in offices and halls of shopping centers, but also for decorating ceilings in residential premises.

Initially, the Armstrong system was developed for the quick finishing of large areas of shopping malls.

Today, the name of these ceilings has become a household name for all suspension systems of this type, using light square-shaped slabs.

Panels installed in this system can be made of glass fiber reinforced gypsum, mineral fiber, acrylic or silicate transparent or frosted glass.

Some of the ceiling panels are at the same time a kind of lamps, as they are equipped with glass illuminated by lamps installed in the interceiling space, or they have their own built-in lighting devices.

Another option to make the room as light as possible is on the main whitewashed ceiling, and then the installation of a suspended decorative surface from frosted glass panels. Glass at this arrangement will work like lenses, as a result of which you can get a soft diffused light that will not leave even the corners of the room dark.

The most popular in everyday construction practice are gypsum fiber slabs with a porous surface. Most often, it is they who make out most of the ceiling area, and lighting panels are mounted between them.

It should be noted that the developers for the manufacture of system panels provided for environmentally friendly, does not emit harmful fumes, easy to massthe material that does not weigh down the suspended structure and at the same time gives the ceiling a strict, neat look.

The porous surface of the Armstrong panel

If desired, after a while the plates can be temporarily removed and painted in a different color scheme. And, the process of such toning can be carried out on the street or on the balcony, without polluting the floor surface of the apartment and without bringing the smell of paint into the living quarters. This possibility exists due to the fact that the panels can be easily dismantled, and after processing they can be easily put into place.

In addition, the panels, unlike polystyrene foam boards, are absolutely non-flammable, do not produce smoke and do not contribute to the spread of fire when a fire occurs next to them. This makes the room completely fireproof from the ceiling.

Ceiling construction

The principle of mounting the Armstrong system, consisting of guides of various types, is approximately the same. The suspended structure is assembled from the following elements:

An approximate diagram of the design of the false ceiling "Armstrong"

• Plates laid in the structure, from which the decorative ceiling surface is formed. Produced in sizes 600 × 600 and 600 × 1200 mm, indicated on the diagram pos. 1. Rectangular slabs are less popular than square slabs, although the frame and their laying is much faster due to the smaller number of suspended structure elements used.
• T-shaped frame profiles are usually marked T15 or T24 - depending on the width of their transverse flange in millimeters:

— Longitudinal load-bearing profiles, which are the main structural elements, are produced up to 3600 mm long. In the diagram they are shown pos. 3 and 4.

- Cross jumpers installed between the supporting profiles. They are produced in standard sizes of 600 and 1200 mm. On the diagram - pos. 2.

- Corner profiles fixed to the wall and supporting the edges of the profiles and panels along the perimeter of the room. They have a shelf size of 19 × 24 mm, length - up to 3000 mm. These elements are indicated in the diagram pos. 6 and 8.

To hold the entire structure in suspension at the required general level, special elements are used - suspensions. Most often, in ordinary construction practice, spokes with a spring-loaded “butterfly” lock are used. With the help of these elements, the suspension system can be lowered from the main ceiling to the required distance. One cannot but agree that this — fairly simple way display the ideal horizontal ceiling surface.

Such a suspension usually consists of three elements:

- A knitting needle equipped with an eyelet at one end, in the diagram - pos. 5 B. The eyelet is intended for hanging on an element fixed in the main ceiling, pos. 7.

- A spoke having a hook at one end, on which the frame profiles will be hooked - pos. 5a.

- Spring type "butterfly", pos. 5 helps to regulate the relative position of the two spokes relative to each other. "Butterflies" can be of several types.

However, you should be aware that spring-loaded hangers - "butterflies" - this is not the only way to fasten the frame. The Armstrong system can be divided into several varieties, which differ in the design of suspension mounts. All of them are accurately calculated by the manufacturer, taking into account the surface on which the frame will be hung. And, both the simplest methods are used in the form of tying on a wire, and quite complex ones, in which the height of the suspension is adjusted by a screw method, giving high installation accuracy.

Suspension type	Limits of regulation	Setting accuracy	Note
Wire	30 kg	up to 5000 mm	± 2 mm	Do not use in high wind conditions
L-profile	30 kg	up to 3000 mm	± 2 mm	Used when creating rigid vertical links
	45 kg	up to 1000 mm	±0.5mm	Especially recommended for the installation of metal cassette ceilings "Armstrong Orcal"
	25 kg	165÷980 mm	± 1 mm
	25 kg	up to 2000 mm	± 1 mm
Nonius hook	15 kg	300÷800 mm	±0.5mm

Manufacturers of the Armstrong system have also developed recommendations for the use of various fasteners for installing hangers on certain floor surfaces. This point is also important to consider when choosing and purchasing the necessary components.

ceiling material	Type of suspension system
	Wire	L-profile	Threaded rod + adapter	Two-spoke hook with spring lock	Single-spoke hook with spring lock	Nonius hook
Reinforced concrete	Hanging hook Hilti HA-8	Anchor Hilti DBZ 6S	Spacer Hilti HKD S M 6×30	Hanging hook Hilti HA-8	Hanging hook Hilti HA-8	Anchor Hilti DBZ 6S
metal beam	-	-	Threaded pin Hilti X-EM 6-20-12 mit	-	-	-
Decking	-	-	Anchor MF-SKD	-	-	Anchor MF-SKD
wooden floor	wood screws
hollow block	Anchor dowel Hilti HHD-S	Anchor dowel Hilti HHD-S	Umbrella dowel	Anchor dowel Hilti HHD-S	-	Anchor dowel Hilti HHD-S
prestressed concrete		Spacer sleeve HKD S M 6×30	Spacer sleeve HKD S M 6×30	-	Spacer sleeve HKD S M 6×30	Spacer sleeve HKD S M 6×30
foam concrete	-	-	Spacer sleeve HKD S M 6×30	-	-	-

Tools and materials for mounting the Armstrong system

To install the false ceiling of the Armstrong system, you will need to prepare some tools that will help you quickly get the job done:

• Electric drill with impact function or rotary hammer. If the structure will be mounted on a concrete ceiling and walls, then this tool is indispensable.
• Shurupov rt for screwing in fixing screws.
• A hammer.
• Metal scissors.
• Electric jigsaw for trimming edge boards. Many plates can be cut with an ordinary sharp construction knife.
• Pliers.
• Marking cord, simple pencil or marker.
• Building level, building corner with a ruler, tape measure or folding rule and a 1000 mm ruler.

From the materials you need to prepare the following elements, purchased according to the dimensions taken from the ceiling surface:

Corner profile, which will be installed on the walls around the entire perimeter of the room.

Bearing profiles, which will be suspended from the ceiling, and with their edges resting on the corner profiles. To calculate their number, the width of the room is divided into strips of 600 mm and two corner profiles are subtracted from the resulting result, since they will perform the same function. For example, the width is 3000 mm, so 3000 : 600 = 5 — 2 = 3 pcs. It turns out that with this size of the room, between the corner rails on the walls, you need to install three middle T-shaped load-bearing profiles.

600 mm T-shaped rails - jumpers. Their number for laying between two load-bearing profiles is calculated in the same way as for longitudinal solid elements, but since there will be five such gaps in this case, it means that the resulting number must be multiplied by this figure. For example, the length of a room is 5400 mm, it must be divided by 600, it turns out 9–2 (corner rails) \u003d 7 × 5 (rows) \u003d 35 pcs.

Ceiling two-piece suspension with a clamping spring. These items will require 1 pc. per 1 sq.m .. Therefore, you need to find out the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, rounded up to a whole number.

Example: for a room measuring 3 × 5.4 m you will need:

- angular profile 16.8 m;

- carrier rails 3 pcs. 5.4 mm in size; Since they are produced with a length of 3.6 m, they will have to be made from two component parts.

- jumpers with a size of 600 mm - 35 pcs.;

- hangers - 16 pcs. and the same number of ceiling mounts, which are selected depending on the material of the ceiling.

Drawing up an installation diagram

It should be noted that the supporting T-profile is installed in the middle of the false ceiling width - this should predetermine the location of the jumpers. This is done because it is extremely rare that the ceiling will be completely assembled from solid slabs, and it is better to place narrower frame cells at the edges of the room.

Sometimes they do it this way - they place the carrier profiles in increments of 1200 mm, then connect them with jumpers of 1200 mm, between which the shortest ones are already installed - 600 mm each.

On the diagram:

1 - bearing profiles;

2 - jumpers 1200 mm long;

3 - jumpers 600 mm long.

When making a drawing, the dimensions of the ceiling are transferred to the sheet in the appropriate scale (optimally - 1:10). Then apply the center lines, vertical and horizontal. Further, segments corresponding to the size of the plates are already measured from the center, and the entire plane is drawn into squares. Such visibility will help to correctly determine the profiles used, and their number, and with the exact location. It is possible that it would be more reasonable from the point of view of aesthetics or economy of materials to slightly shift the lines so that not the profiles but the centers of the rows of panels are located along the axes.

It is recommended that all calculations be carried out accurately and in millimeters, then you can get the desired size of the cells, which will be located at the edges of the structure. The material should be purchased with a margin of 10-15% - such foresight will help to avoid problems with its shortage in the process of work.

Surface marking

In order for the frame to be installed efficiently, before installing it, it is necessary to accurately mark the ceiling and walls. Although the profiles will not be fixed to the main surface of the ceiling, marking lines should be present on it, since it will be easy to navigate along them, placing the carrier rails and jumpers.

It should also be noted here that the suspended ceiling can be located at least 150 mm from the main ceiling - this must be taken into account when choosing this system for interior decoration. This distance will be needed for communications and installation of lighting fixtures. In addition, insulating and soundproofing material can also be placed in this cavity.

Marking can be carried out in a modern way, using a laser tracer-level. However, not everyone has the opportunity to purchase such a tool, so it is worth considering the traditional way of marking work.

• The first step is to determine the distance that the suspended ceiling will be lowered. To do this, from the junction of the ceiling and the wall, using a building corner with a ruler, the required distance is measured in the place where the ceiling surface is visually located the lowest (in most cases, the floor slab may not be located strictly horizontally, and its surface is not always flat).
• Then, this mark must be transferred around the entire perimeter of the room, at least three risks on each wall. You can, of course, use a long building level, for example, in combination with a rule. However, it is still easy to make a mistake with this approach, and as a result, the lines drawn on the walls will not converge at one point. Therefore, it is optimal to mark up using a water level - so the possibility of an error will be excluded.
• Then, a marking colored cord is taken, stretched, aligned at the two extreme points on the wall, and a straight line is beaten off on the surface. The third point, in the center of the wall, will serve as a control. This procedure is best done together, with an assistant. If it is carried out by one master, then one end of the cord will first have to be fixed on the wall at one of the extreme points, and then stretched and beaten.

• Next, you need to mark the surface of the ceiling. If an accurate drawing is made, then the distances from the walls to the nearest longitudinal and transverse lines will be exactly known, and it remains to make marks and punch the lines with a cord. In the event that the installation of panels is supposed to be from the exact geometric center of the room, then the center lines are first beaten off.

• Then, segments of 600 mm are marked in all directions, and colored stripes are also beaten off along them. As a result, the ceiling must be “lined” into a regular cage with sides of 600 mm squares.

Laying communications

After marking, proceed to the next stage of work.

Since all communications can be hidden above the surface of the suspended ceiling, which are most often electrical wiring for various purposes, this must be done before installation work begins.

In the event that it is planned to “embed” lighting fixtures with significant weight into the ceiling structure, it must be taken into account that the type of system suspension that can withstand the increased load should be chosen. So, most often for ordinary ceilings, suspensions are used that can withstand a force of only 6 ÷ 6.5 kg per square meter, but there is a type of fastener designed for more significant loads, up to 10 and more kg / m².

Frame installation

Having completed all the preparatory work, you can proceed to the installation of the frame. And they start it by fixing on the walls, along the marked horizontal lines, an angular profile around the entire perimeter of the room.

• If the walls are concrete, then the corners are fixed on them with dowels with a diameter of 6 mm. To do this, holes are drilled through the metal of the corner with a pitch of 300 ÷ 350 mm, into which a dowel is inserted and hammered.

• On wooden walls, the corner is fixed with self-tapping screws 25 ÷ 30 mm long, 4 ÷ 5 mm in diameter.
• If a false ceiling is mounted in a room with walls being prepared for sheathing drywall sheets, the distance to which it will be lowered from the floor level must be foreseen in advance, before installing the GKL on the crate. In this case, an additional profile or a wooden beam is mounted in the crate under the drywall in the place where the wall corner for the suspended structure will be fixed.
• In the corners of the profile shelves can be stacked one on the to another, or their protruding parts are cut off at an angle of 45 degrees.

Installation of hangers

• Further, along the ceiling marked lines, suspensions are fixed with dowels or self-tapping screws. Their placement is carried out in increments of one suspension per square meter.

• In the places of the planned installation of panel panels, it is recommended to put, for insurance, additional suspensions at the corners of the square.

• If the suspension spokes turned out to be longer than the distance between the two ceilings, then they are cut off, for example, using a grinder.

• When installing hangers, it is recommended to orient their lower hooks immediately in one direction - this will facilitate the installation of guides.

Support profiles

• The next step is the installation of carrier profiles. With their edges they should lie on the corners fixed on the wall. However, the corners are only a guide, but do not play a bearing role in this case. Each of the profiles has special round holes through which they are immediately put on the hanger hooks.

• Bearing profiles are mounted at a distance set by a pre-drawn drawing, 600 or 1200 mm from each other. It is difficult to make a mistake in this matter - for this it will be enough to navigate on the ceiling lines and suspensions already located along them.
• The overall "reach" of the suspension must be fine-tuned, that is. pull up or lower a little lower, so that the transverse profile shelf lies on the wall corners without clearance, but not resting on it with force. Control during work is carried out using the building level - with the correct marking in this position, the profile should take a perfectly horizontal position.

• In order for the profiles to hold well on the hanger hooks, the latter need to be squeezed a little with pliers.

Having finished the installation of the longitudinal bearing rails, they proceed to the installation of crossbars (lintels) between them.

Jumper setting

• Jumpers are installed between the supporting profiles with a step of 600 mm. At both ends of the transverse elements there are narrowed perforated "lugs-locks" with rounded corners.

• They are inserted into the slots located on the carrier profiles. Some craftsmen bend these parts of the jumpers, pressing them against the carrier rail, then the structure becomes more rigid. However, this is not at all necessary, since the latches securely fix the elements to each other, and after the entire frame is fully assembled, the required rigidity will be fully observed.

• The slotted holes are wide enough so that they can be inserted into the "ears" from two jumpers, which are installed between two adjacent load-bearing profiles and are collectively a continuation of the common transverse line of the structure.

Panel mounting

• After the installation of the frame is completed, the next step is the installation of lighting panels or slabs with spotlights built into them.

Panel - LED-lamp

There are panels that resemble a screen covered with frosted glass. They are specially designed for installation in Armstrong systems, therefore they have the appropriate dimensions - 600 × 600 mm. Powerful LEDs installed in such a panel give a fairly bright soft light, and for a small room one such LED lamp is enough to create almost daylight diffused lighting.

• The lighting device, after installing the corresponding panel, is connected to the electrical cable, which is connected to the place of its installation in advance, using special terminals or blocks.

• Further, the installation is carried out, starting with solid ceiling tiles. They fit into the cells of the frame, and, since the panels are light, it is extremely easy to mount them. These elements do not require any additional fastening - they simply fit on the inner shelves of the longitudinal and transverse profiles.

If the cells of the structure extreme to the wall have a smaller width, then the plates must be adjusted for them.

The material from which the panels are made is easy to cut with an ordinary hacksaw, but first you need to take the correct dimensions from a narrow cell and transfer them to the plate. Then, a straight cut line is drawn and the excess part is cut off (or even cut off with a sharp construction knife).

In fact, after laying all the fragments along the walls, the installation of the Armstrong ceiling can be considered complete. No additional finishing operations are required.

It should be noted that the simplest frame scheme for this type of ceiling was considered above. In addition to it, there are others, for example, when the plates are laid diagonally in the room, or in even rows, but with the cells shifted relative to each other - the design of the guides allows this.

Ceilings of the Armstrong system open up great opportunities in interior design. They can be painted in different colors, applied to them with the selected pattern, and also laid out in the desired order. They can be mounted in the form of stripes of different colors or in a checkerboard pattern, and well-chosen light panels will add exclusivity and aesthetics to the overall style of the interior of the room.

And at the end of the topic - visual Video instruction for the installation of the cassette ceiling "Armstrong".

Video: how to properly mount the Armstrong suspended ceiling

Properly made backlight can favorably emphasize the strengths of the design solution. A room can be transformed by the use of light. The most common suspended ceilings with lighting. You can make them with your own hands, using drywall, which will hide all the flaws of the ceiling surface, even global ones. You can make a multi-level ceiling, with inserts and transitions. That is, the master can embody his most daring ideas. The backlight, which can be built in, can create coziness in the room and emphasize originality. Let's take a closer look at how to make a false ceiling and mount the backlight.

Suspended ceilings with lighting

Modern design solutions offer a wide variety of ceilings using different materials. Recently, plasterboard ceilings with built-in lighting have been very popular. The appearance of such designs is very creative and cute. The room acquires a sophisticated look, and the design idea allows you to make the ceiling original. The ceiling using drywall allows you to apply various options for fixtures, adjust the number, shape, embed lighting fixtures based on your taste and preferences.

The use of suspended ceilings has advantages over the use of other materials:

• using drywall, ceiling defects can be leveled;
• there is no need to perform preparatory work before installing stretch ceilings;
• under the material you can hide all the wires, exhaust compartments;
• great scope for imagination, the ability to make a multi-level project.

But along with such advantages, it is worth noting the negative aspects of using such design solutions:

• the ceiling height will decrease by a dozen centimeters;
• mounting the ceiling itself does not require special skills, but the installation of lighting and electrical work should be done by a specialist - improper connection of lighting fixtures often causes a short circuit and a fire.

Types of suspended structure

A false ceiling can decorate both a public institution and a residential building. It can be very difficult to choose a material, especially for an ordinary buyer who is not familiar with the design features in detail. There are such types of suspended ceilings:

• from drywall;
• tiled ceilings;
• stretch ceiling;
• modular designs;
• aluminum ceilings.

Let's consider each of the options in more detail.

Plasterboard ceilings are an opportunity to turn around and come up with any shape of the ceiling. It can be a design using lines, squares, levels, curly parts. Niches and transitions, ledges and decorative fragments are allowed. For a quality result, drywall is attached to profiles that can withstand the structure and strengthen it. The more complex the design, the more fuss for the master, but the result will please for a long time. To enhance the effect, lighting fixtures are mounted. Here you can also apply any lamps. These can be incandescent, LED, halogen or energy-saving lamps.

For rooms with a normal level of humidity, standard drywall sheets are used, for "wet" rooms, such as a laundry room, bath, swimming pool, it is advisable to use a waterproof material. They can be ordinary waterproof sheets and waterproof super sheets.

Mounting material is a noisy and dusty event. To do the work, you need to invite a specialist, if you plan to do the installation of a false ceiling from plasterboard on your own, invite an assistant, since you won’t be able to do this work yourself.

Tiled false ceilings are not as cozy as drywall constructions. They are recommended to be installed in office premises in storage rooms. The buyer is impressed by the low cost, versatility, fast mounting speed. There are ordinary plates, there are waterproof ones. The disadvantage of this material is its inability to endure mechanical stress. The material breaks easily when dropped. But its low cost counterbalances the downside of such a plan.

Aluminum ceilings are rails of two types of length: three and four meters. The width of the rails ranges from five to twenty centimeters. The material is covered with various shades: under silver, gilding, chrome-plated. The surface can be varied - from flat to embossed.

Using this material, three main types of construction are made:

• Italian style;
• design style;
• german style.

The lightness of the design allows you to install the ceiling without additional fastening, it is durable and gives the room a businesslike look. A similar design is used in non-residential premises.

Modular designs are options that combine different elements. They can be of several types:

• tiled;
• raster or cassette;
• rack;
• cellular.

The use of modular structures makes it possible to level the ceiling, combine shades, create decorative elements and patterns. Such structures are easy to assemble and can be installed independently, as they are relatively light.

Suspended ceiling stretch type

Stretch ceiling requires more attention and a detailed description of the design. Stretch ceiling is the most popular among all suspended ceilings. It is in demand and is recognized as one of the best. Such ceilings are made of a thin film or fabric, the pattern of which corresponds to the area of ​​​​the ceiling surface and is tightly stretched on a special frame. Depending on the type of material, the design will glare, shimmer, have a reflective surface, or be no different from a freshly whitened ceiling. For illumination, light generators are built in.

Stretch structures are in great demand, as a wide variety of materials allows you to create different surfaces to your taste, the room is transformed, it looks luxurious and elegant. Such a ceiling is mounted quickly, the material does not need special care. It has high moisture resistance. One, but very big minus, is its high cost.

The advantages of installing a suspended structure are the following points:

• stretch ceiling can be installed in various types of premises, they tolerate both low and high temperatures and temperature changes;
• resistant to mechanical damage, such a ceiling is not so easy to cut or tear;
• if flooding occurs, they do not sag, but evenly distribute water;
• the surface of the ceiling is impregnated with the product. Which repels dust, as a result, it is very easy to maintain the surface, if necessary, you can use a wet sponge, it will not harm the surface.

In a room with such a design it is very light, because it reflects and amplifies the light.

False ceiling design

Now suspended ceilings are very popular, like every design, it has its advantages and disadvantages, but nevertheless, in almost every office, apartment or salon you can see various types of suspended ceilings. Depending on the design features, the following design options are distinguished:

• cellular;
• tiled;
• cassette;
• lattice;
• rack;
• solid;
• decorative.

The following structures are distinguished by form:

• planar;
• modular;
• curvilinear.

Installation of any type of ceiling covering involves the work of at least two people, on their own, and even a beginner, it is not recommended to do such manipulations.

Suspended ceilings with lighting, advantages

The hanging version with backlight is very beautiful, cozy and elegant. Such designs are in demand and popular due to a number of circumstances:

• light weight of the final design;
• ease of installation;
• no need to pre-prepare the surface;
• the ability to hide wiring, hatches.

Drywall material goes well with other types. Various design ideas are possible.

It is also possible to use different lighting fixtures depending on:

• financial opportunities;
• the shape and type of the ceiling surface;
• insulating materials;
• purpose of lighting fixtures.

Types of lighting fixtures for the ceiling

To mount the backlight in suspended ceilings, the following types of lamps are used:

• spot - a budget option, used for night illumination or zoning of a room;
• LED - inexpensive, giving diffused light, long service life;
• classic - an ordinary chandelier, which is not always combined with the type of false ceiling;
• daylight - economical and long-term used devices in non-residential premises, easy to install, but very sensitive to voltage drops in the network;
• fiber optic - such lamps allow you to create effects, are expensive, installed with great effort, take up the height of the room.

• it is better to install zonal backlights using several dim light sources than one very bright one;
• the backlight option should be thought out in advance, to estimate whether this option will highlight in the right places;
• when installing lighting in the kitchen, it is advisable to separately illuminate the work surfaces and the common part;
• in the bedroom, lighting should be installed above important interior items - above the bed, table, wardrobe;
• in the corridor it is also preferable to make zoning of lighting fixtures;
• well-installed lighting will emphasize design ideas, such as the starry sky, the northern lights and the like;
• different switches are mounted for different zones;
• before installing the fixtures, a detailed plan should be drawn up, on which the type, dimensions, location of lighting fixtures and switches should be noted.

False ceiling installation instructions

Illumination on the surface of the ceiling area of ​​plasterboard material is most often performed in two ways:

• open;
• hidden.

It is quite easy to implement the first option: a void is made in the ceiling and a lighting fixture is installed. The total weight of lighting fixtures should not exceed ten kilograms, since the ceiling will not withstand the load.

For the second option, it is proposed to install fixtures in a special niche between sheets of drywall. This option looks very good, since the flow of light is directed clearly down.

To carry out the work of installing a false ceiling, it is important to prepare the tools:

• drywall;
• profiles;
• suspensions;
• clamps;
• mesh for joints;
• metal scissors;
• pliers;
• screwdrivers;
• screwdriver;
• spatula, putty;
• lamps.

It is not easy to install a false ceiling on your own, with your own hands. If you are determined to do this without the involvement of specialists, you need to familiarize yourself with the theoretical base and try to see firsthand how others do it. For the successful implementation of the work, it is necessary to calculate the amount of material required, prepare tools, and plan the placement of lighting fixtures. Provided that you are confident in your abilities and with the involvement of an assistant, it is quite possible to make a false ceiling on your own.

Installation technology of plasterboard false ceiling

The first step in installing the ceiling is the device of the upper-level frame. This is done like this:

• draw ten centimeters from the level of the ceiling surface along the perimeter of the entire room;
• place start profiles in a row;
• position the main profile;
• between the main parts of the profile, correctly position the jumpers.

Cover the resulting frame with sheets, secure with self-tapping screws.

All stages can be divided into the following:

• mounting the box for lighting;
• sheathing the frame with plasterboard sheets;
• installation and connection of devices for lighting.

False ceiling lighting

The fact that you can illuminate the room in a zoned way makes suspended ceilings even more attractive to use. Lighting is not done spontaneously, it is necessary to plan the type of lighting, the number and quality of lamps. The ceiling lighting itself can be divided into three groups:

• general lighting;
• detailed lighting;
• mood lighting.

For general lighting, central lamps are used, for detailed lighting - zone lighting as needed, and mood lighting can create any environment - work, intimate, festive.

You can make your home original and stylish with the help of suspended ceilings and lighting. A wide variety of materials allows you to create masterpiece designs that will be in a single copy. You can get acquainted in more detail with the options for suspended ceilings, the backlight installation algorithm, the features and variety of lighting fixtures in the video. You will find answers to all your questions and you can see for yourself that a backlit suspended structure is very beautiful and creative.

1. Preparing the premises.

2. Marking the ceiling and walls.

Photo 2

Photo 3

Photo 4

Photo 6

Photo 7

6. Installation of drywall.

Photo 8

Useful Reminder

How to install a false ceiling with your own hands, what will be needed for this and what will be the result. A few simple tips leading to a quality installation.

Do-it-yourself suspended ceiling

A suspended ceiling is one of the easiest and most inexpensive ways to level a ceiling. And given the relative ease of installation and the possibility of creating multi-tiered and figured ceilings that are perfectly combined with decorative lights, it becomes clear why they are increasingly mounting a suspended ceiling with their own hands.

In addition to leveling the ceiling, such a design can help improve sound insulation from above (relevant if there are noisy neighbors, a child or a large animal at the top), by making a suspended ceiling with your own hands, you can emphasize the design and hide communications.

Do-it-yourself false ceiling materials

1. GKL. Do not look for ceiling drywall, although if it is, then take it. Yes, and there is no need to take 12mm drywall, most professionals lean towards its “lightweight” 9.5mm counterpart. In wet rooms, a kitchen or a bathroom, you will need the same drywall, but with a green mark, that is, moisture resistant. With a standard width of 1.2 m, the length can be from 2 to 4 m.

2. Fasteners. The main fastener and its elements are shown in photo 1.

3. Metal profiles for the frame. They need 2 types: rack-mount (60x27 mm) and guides (27x28 mm). The standard length of the rails is 3 meters, but to increase the length, butt connectors are used, into which two rails are inserted with further fastening of the joint with self-tapping screws.

4. Hangers. They are also different, but the least marriage and problems with direct suspensions, and you can buy them at any hardware store. And rack profiles located perpendicularly will be fastened with “crabs” or cross-shaped connectors (see photo 1).

Do-it-yourself false ceiling installation

The first thing to say is the need for at least one assistant. With your hands does not mean alone. It is better to start from a simple, that is, a single-level ceiling in a small room. The experience gained will allow you to move on to the complex. So let's get started!

1. Preparing the premises.

Look at the ceilings and walls, remove obstructions from the ceiling, if the walls need to be leveled, do the necessary. Complete the laying of communications (if necessary), and also eliminate the gaps in the ceiling. Let the area dry thoroughly.

2. Marking the ceiling and walls.

Already at this stage, you need to decide what kind of lighting will be. If spotlights, then the ceiling must be lowered 3-4 cm below the height of the fixtures, and if the light is overhead, then a decrease of 5 to 10 cm is sufficient.

Determine the degree of curvature of the ceiling so as not to leave the new ceiling slanted like the old one was. Using a laser or water level, we find the lowest of all angles, which will become the starting point for marking.

Having marked the corners, with a long level or a rule, we draw an even horizontal along the perimeter on the walls - the future axial or bottom line of the guide profile (as convenient).

3. Installation of a frame for a suspended ceiling.

By marking with a step of 35-40 cm with a puncher or a punched drill, attaching a guide profile and through it, we drill holes and insert plastic dowels into which self-tapping screws are screwed, preferably on wood. Remember that a lot depends on the quality of fastening, so the holes must be deep enough (dowel from 40 mm for small ones, and 60 or 80 for large rooms).

Now the future frame should be "overgrown" with rack profiles. If their length is no more than 2.5 m, then the frame will be very simple and quite rigid (Photo 2). To install these profiles, make marks on the side guide profiles (every 60 cm). The length of the rack profiles will be equal to the width of the room minus 1 cm.

We insert them in the centers of the marks-marks (Photo 3) and fix them in place with the help of a self-tapping screw with a press washer.

So that the center does not sag over time, we use suspensions to increase the rigidity of the frame. Along the axis of their attachment to the ceiling, after 40 cm we fasten them up, fasten the antennae with metal screws to the profile, and gently bend the rest of the antennae up, no need to cut (Photo 4). If the room is larger, then along the profile you will need to pull the cord along which the fasteners are carried out without sagging.

4. Installation of electrical wiring and a place for a chandelier (if planned).

If the lamps are spot or overhead, then for the first ones it is easy to drill a hole in drywall with a special crown from a set of the required diameter (make sure not to get into the profile), and if there is a chandelier, then it must be fixed either to the ceiling or to the profile, but significantly reinforcing it with suspensions and mortgages in this place.

The wiring over the profile must be laid in a PVC corrugated sleeve. If the fixtures are overhead, then drywall must be attached to its place, mark the wire outlet and drill a hole in it, insert the wire and fix the sheet in this way.

5. Installation of insulation (as required).

On top of the frame, you can “spread” the insulation (it is also a sound insulator), and with the help of a fungus dowel (Photo 5) we fasten it to the ceiling (not too rare, but without fanaticism). (Photo 6).

6. Installation of drywall.

We know the exact dimensions between the walls, so we mark the cutting lines with a pencil and cut the panels with a mounting knife with removable blades (they must be sharp).

With self-tapping screws, after 20-30 cm, fix the chopped GKL to the profile. You can do it end-to-end, or you can do it with a small indent of 5 mm, then the putty will close everything, as well as the heads of the self-tapping screws, it is better to drown a couple of millimeters so that the putty covers them (otherwise, if they start to rust, it will become noticeable).

Glue all the joints with tape - "sickle", putting it on a thin layer of "Prefix". Putty all transitions and screws, and after drying, sand the surface with sandpaper, zero or P 150.

We prime the surface with a primer for such cases, and after drying, at least paint it, even glue the wallpaper.

Do-it-yourself suspended ceiling in a large room

If the room is larger, then the frame should be more powerful (Photo 7). After installing the profile around the perimeter, you should add racks along the room. The same marks every 60 cm on the rails and the mounting of rack-mounts to them, if you need to lengthen them, then there are ready-made butt connectors for this.

Now it remains to insert the jumpers, having previously marked their places on the profile after 60 cm. Place the crabs at the risks and insert 60 cm jumpers from the profile with self-tapping screws (Photo 8).

The procedure for installing drywall sheets is the same, but the sheets are fastened “in a row”, that is, the start of the first row is a whole sheet, and the second is a half, and so on.

Useful Reminder

Position the ceiling profiles so that the sheet is fixed at at least three points: two at the edges and one in the middle.

In order not to make the structure heavier, there are enough transverse jumpers where the GKL joints are located.

It is often necessary to think about what kind of ceiling to make in it, because you want this part of the bathroom to be beautiful, practical and durable. The following building materials can be used for the ceiling:

1. Plastic panels.
2. Drywall.
3. Clapboard.

Let's start with how to make a false ceiling in the bathroom from panels. There is nothing complicated here.

Why are we looking at panels first and not drywall? Of course, you can make a false ceiling from plasterboard. First you need to bring the material by truck, and then do the finishing - cover the seams and sheets with a mesh, apply and level the putty, paint. Of course, such a ceiling will be beautiful, but, in general, plastic panels look great too. Moreover, not everyone is able to do the installation of a plasterboard ceiling with their own hands, but it is not difficult to mount the panels. Next, we will also consider options for the ceiling and drywall.

Advantages of plastic panel ceiling

A little about the advantages of plastic on the ceiling. He is not afraid of moisture and water - and this is the main requirement that applies to the ceiling in rooms with high humidity. The same drywall for the ceiling must be purchased only if it is moisture resistant, and such a sheet will cost more than usual. Unlike it, plastic panels of any type do not deform from moisture. In case of dirt, it is enough to wipe the material with a wet cloth, but drywall will probably have to be repainted. Even if negligent neighbors make a flood from above, there will be absolutely nothing plastic.

The advantage of plastic panels for the bathroom is that they do not get moldy, do not need additional finishing and can be easily replaced if necessary. In addition, there is always a wide choice of colors, thanks to which the bathroom will look aesthetically pleasing. Such panels can close the ceiling with any irregularities and other shortcomings. In addition, it does not take up as much space in height as a suspended plasterboard ceiling, and at the same time, electrical wiring can be carried out above the panels or even pipes can be hidden.

For the manufacture of plastic panels, polyvinyl chloride is used - a generally safe substance for human health, which is also used for the production of disposable plates and other similar products.

Mounting the false ceiling frame

Before marking the frame and starting the installation of the ceiling, it is necessary to determine the distance at which the suspended ceiling will be from the floor slabs or the old ceiling. If fixtures are installed, then a height of about 100 mm is required, or even all 150 mm. When you have decided on the height, you can start marking on the walls to attach the frame profile.

If the ceiling is even (you can check this with a building level), then you can not make a hanging frame, but fix the wooden slats directly to the ceiling, and then nail the panels to them with brackets.

How is markup done? A mark is placed on the wall in one of the corners, for example, 15 cm down from the ceiling. Then similar marks are made on other walls (using a laser or water level). One solid line is drawn along them, which will be the level of the bottom of the metal frame.

As for the profile, two types of profile will be needed - CD and UD. The UD profile is required for wall mounting, while the CD profile is required as a cross profile. It is easy to count the number of profiles. The wall profile has a length of 3 m, which means that you need to calculate the perimeter of the bathroom and divide the resulting value by 3. The situation is similar with the longitudinal profile. It should be located every 50 cm. By counting the total number of axes along which it will be mounted and their length, you can similarly find out the number of CD profiles.

We mount the wall profile using dowels, and the longitudinal one - using self-tapping screws for metal of small size (the so-called "fleas"). In order to drill through the wall for the dowels, you will need a hammer drill or a good impact drill with a Ø 6 mm drill bit. The step by which the wall profiles are fastened with self-tapping screws must be at least 40 cm.

When the wall profile is fixed, a longitudinal profile is mounted, connecting it to the wall profile and to each other with “fleas”. According to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, you will need special suspensions made of knitting needles or strips, with which you can fix the profile so that they do not sag. Given the light weight of plastic panels, they will not need so much.

When the frame is completed, do not forget to conduct electrical wiring for lighting the bathroom. A copper cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm², laid in a corrugation, is suitable for it. Attach the cable to the ceiling, not the frame. At the place where the lamp (or lamps) will be located, it is necessary to draw conclusions 25–30 cm long from the frame for the convenience of further connecting the wires to the cartridge. For fixtures, you need to consider mounting.

Panel mounting

Now the final stage of ceiling installation is the fastening of plastic panels in the bathroom. Work always starts from the edge. Briefly about the device panels. One side of it has a spike, and the other side has a groove into which the next panel is inserted with its spike.

The first panel is cut to length (or two panels are attached, one of which will be cut) and installed with a spike to the wall so that they are located across the frame profile. After that, it is fixed on this profile using small self-tapping screws with a washer, which are screwed into the spike and the bottom of the groove. After that, the next panel is inserted, but only the lower part of the groove is attached to it. According to this principle, the entire ceiling is mounted to the very end. The last panel is cut (if necessary) not only in length, but also in width, then it is fixed to the edge near the wall.

When all the panels are assembled, cornices are glued to the corners with the wall and ceiling, which will hide the seams between the plastic and the wall.

If the plastic panel is gaining in length, but at the same time its length is not enough for the entire ceiling, then it is necessary to supplement it with a segment of another strip. In order for the joint to be made correctly in this case, it is necessary to purchase a special mount, which has grooves on both sides so that the panel can freely enter them in width.

If it is necessary to cut the profile, this can be done with metal shears. The panel is best carefully cut with a hacksaw or a sharp construction knife.

The finished ceiling can be gently wiped with a damp cloth, after which you need to hang the lamps, fixing them on the ceiling. Having connected the wires to the cartridge, a light bulb is twisted into the lamp. We can say that this installation of the ceiling is completed.

A false ceiling made of plastic panels is quite easy to make, and it is durable - in the next ten years, you don’t have to worry about repairing the ceiling. In addition, by performing its installation, you can significantly save on repairs without losing the quality of the work performed.

In addition to panels, plasterboard sheets can be mounted on the ceiling in the bathroom. However, it should be noted that not all sheets will fit - in the bathroom you can use only moisture-resistant drywall, which would be able to withstand high humidity in the room.

A plasterboard ceiling is more difficult to install than a plastic panel ceiling. But its advantage is an excellent design and the ability to create a ceiling of several levels, if the height of the bathroom and its dimensions allow it. So, consider where the installation of the ceiling begins.

In a sense, the frame for a plasterboard ceiling is similar to the frame that is needed for plastic panels. Also, a guide profile is attached to the wall, longitudinal and transverse profiles are inserted into it, held on suspensions. But there are certain requirements for the step between the last profiles. So, the size of one sheet of drywall is usually 2.5 m in length and 1.2 in width. When creating a frame in the bathroom, these dimensions must be taken into account.

To install a plasterboard ceiling in the bathroom, some people prefer to purchase non-standard sheets or cut existing ones. In this case, the frame must be assembled, taking into account the dimensions of the resulting drywall sheets.

Sheets on the ceiling begin to be fixed from the edge, on one of the walls. Consequently, the two sides of the drywall along the length and width will be attached to the guide profile, tightly adjacent to the wall. The following profiles are arranged according to this scheme: the longitudinal profile, like the transverse one, should only go half way onto the sheet so that the next sheet can be fixed to its second half.

This means that the distance from the wall to the center of the profile at the junction of the sheets should be equal to the width of the sheet, that is, 1.2 m, or another value if the specified width has other dimensions. However, a distance of more than a meter without additional reinforcement is fraught with the fact that the sheet may begin to sag and even crack. Therefore, it is necessary to fix another longitudinal profile in the middle of the sheet, the center of which would extend 60 cm from the wall and at the same distance from the profile at the junction.

The situation is similar for length. The center of the profile, which will join the two sheets, should be in the middle, and between it and the wall it is necessary to place more transverse profiles - approximately every 60 cm (step). The joints of the longitudinal and transverse profiles are reinforced with suspensions. It is possible to strengthen not all joints, but through one - this will be enough so that the ceiling does not sag. According to this principle, the entire frame is recruited in the bathroom.

In some cases, if the bathtub is spacious and tall enough, homeowners may decide to have a multi-level plasterboard suspended ceiling in their bathroom. In this case, it is necessary to recruit the top row of the frame, and then the bottom one, while both levels will be connected by a profile in those places where the vertical pieces of drywall will be attached. The optimal level height is 10 cm.

Before fixing drywall, you need to lay electrical wiring, after hiding it in the corrugation.

Recently, lining made from various tree species, such as larch, cedar and other wood, has gained considerable popularity. In addition to the fact that wooden lining is durable and durable, and due to impregnation, it is not afraid of water. You can tell she looks good. With the help of lining, you can create the appearance that the ceiling in the bathroom is made of perfectly even boards. And if you use a false beam, you will get the impression that the ceiling is made of wooden beams.

See how to make a slatted aluminum ceiling in the bathroom:

A photo

Modern suspended ceilings delight with the splendor of shapes and shades, make the house more spacious and brighter. The unusual design is of great interest and makes a good impression on visitors. New building technologies help to effectively use the ceiling space. As a result, each room is interesting and unique in its own way.

To date, the market offers an abundance of available materials for finishing the ceiling. Experimenting with shape and color, you will be able to implement the most unusual design ideas. This article will help you with this. She will talk about the technology of installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling and teach you to understand the intricacies of work.

Preparing for the installation of a false ceiling

Installing a suspended ceiling is a technically painstaking job that requires preparation. Purchase building materials, collect the necessary tools. Everything must be prepared so as not to be interrupted in the process of work.

Necessary tools and materials

• drill with a set of drills;
• building level;
• hydraulic level;
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• square;
• hacksaw;
• a hammer;
• roulette;
• marker;
• knife.

Materials:

• drywall sheets;
• guide profiles;
• metal profiles;
• profile hangers;
• self-tapping screws for metal;
• concrete anchors;
• brackets;
• dowels.

False ceiling installation

Hinged structures consist of a metal or wooden frame, on which drywall sheets are attached. Thanks to hinged technologies, it is easy to give the ceiling any shape. Overlappings are single-level and multi-level.

The first option is the simplest and most prefabricated, its main task is to hide the unevenness of the old ceiling. The second option is more complex and time-consuming, its purpose is not only to mask defects, but also to perform a decorative function. Installation of any hinged structure takes place according to the same scheme and is divided into several important stages.

Ceiling markings

At the first stage, it is necessary to make markings on the surface of the old floor. Mark the height of the future ceiling, as well as the location of the frame.

1. Determine the lowest corner of the room. Measurements are taken with a tape measure, applied to the corners of the room. When the minimum level is found, make a mark on the wall, stepping back 5 cm from the ceiling. If you plan to install lighting in the form of built-in lighting, step back 10 cm.
2. Transfer the mark made to all other sides. Use the hydraulic level, it can be made from a thin hose. This is a handy tool, but you will need an assistant to work with it.
3. Now connect the marks on the wall. Use a dyeing cord, but if there is no such tool, take a long and even bar. On it, draw horizontal lines around the entire perimeter.
4. Attach the guides to the wall and make marks using a drill. The profile has pre-drilled mounting holes. Drill a recess for the dowels through them.
5. Glue the sealing tape to the back of the rails. It is needed to dampen vibrations, this will help prevent cracks. Then attach the profile to the wall with dowel nails.
6. Make parallel lines on the ceiling for the longitudinal support bars. The width of a standard drywall is 120 cm, so the distance between the profile should be 60 cm. This will securely fix the sheet on the planks.
7. Draw marks for hangers. Mark points in 50 cm increments on the lines of the ceiling profile. They are installed so that the profile structure in the middle of the ceiling does not sag.

Frame installation

At this stage, a metal frame is installed. According to the marks made, the ceiling profile and suspensions are attached. The work is done carefully so that the base is even.

1. Insert the longitudinal strips into the groove of the guides. The distance between them should be 60 cm. The profile is three meters long, if the length is not enough, attach another bar to it and join them with a special bracket. The total length of the longitudinal profile should be less than the length of the room by one centimeter.
2. Attach the hangers to the ceiling along the profile in 50 cm increments. Fixing is done with anchor bolts, which, unlike dowels, hold well and do not fall out of the holes.
3. Proceed to align the ceiling strips, for this it is convenient to use a cord. Stretch it by tying it to the outermost profiles. On this cord you will make a single flat plane.
4. Fix the profiles on the hangers with metal screws. Bend the excess pieces outward until they stop.
5. Attach the transverse pieces of the profile to the longitudinal strips in increments of 60 cm. For the screed, use the “crab” brackets that are installed in the marked places. Fix the transverse profile with tongues protruding from the crab.
6. Bend the bracket flags towards the slats and screw the small self-tapping screws into them. At this stage, the installation of the profile is completed. Now the frame is ready and you can start laying electrical wires.

Wiring

After completing the installation of the hinged frame, begin to conduct electrical cables. It is recommended to make an external gasket. To prevent accidental ignition of the ceiling, all wiring must be protected by a metal box or corrugation.

1. Mark up the future cable route. It should run along the wall from the switch with access to the ceiling to lead to the fixtures.
2. Install the boxes according to the markup. If you are laying wires in the corrugation, then use clips as fasteners.
3. Make a wire laying in a box or tighten it into a corrugation, and then fix it on clips. Each line must have a separate box or corrugation.
4. When leading the cable to the locations of the lamps, leave a supply of wire 15 cm long for each.

Drywall installation

After finishing work with wiring, install drywall. Installation of the first sheet starts from the corner. It is necessary to leave a gap between the wall and drywall of 2-3 mm. The next sheet is set with an offset - in a checkerboard pattern. Drywall is fixed with metal screws in increments of 15–20 cm. The depth of the cap should not exceed one millimeter.

1. Mark up drywall sheets. On its surface, draw lines that repeat the location of the profile. According to these marks it is convenient to tighten the screws. It is also necessary to make a drawing of the location of the fixtures.
2. Bevel the edges of the sheet - they should be beveled. This is done so that the plaster penetrates well into the gap at the junction of drywall.
3. Screw the sheets to the profile. For convenience, you can use homemade T-shaped spacers that will hold drywall. Scroll all profile cells with self-tapping screws.

Creating holes for lights

Having sheathed the hinged profile with sheets, check the accuracy of the location of the marked holes. There may be deviations in the drawing, correct them. If everything matches the design plan, start creating holes.

1. Find the right hole saw for your drill. The diameter of the nozzle must be equal to the diameter of the holes.
2. Wear goggles to keep plaster dust out of your eyes.
3. Make holes in the drywall, being careful not to damage the sheet.

In the case of puttying the ceiling, there are many nuances, in order to take them into account at this stage, it is necessary to follow the technology. The joints are covered with special putties. These are especially strong compositions made for drywall sheets. Prepare the solution in small portions in order to have time to putty before setting.

1. After diluting the solution, begin to cover the seams. Do this with a small amount of putty, otherwise the joint will be noticeable and uneven.
2. After grouting, take the KURT paper tape and apply it to the seam. Press it down with a spatula so that the tape does not come out above the surface of the drywall.
3. When rubbing large joints, try to make a wide layer. Extras can always be removed. The wider you putty, the smoother the surface will be.
4. After applying the first layer to all joints, let the putty dry. This takes 10-12 hours.
5. After drying, grind with a sanding float all the places where the putty has been applied. After grinding, a lot of dust will remain on the surface of the ceiling. To remove it, use a vacuum cleaner or a wide brush.
6. Prime the entire ceiling. This is done because the base after sealing the seams has become heterogeneous. Drywall and putty absorb moisture differently. Therefore, it is necessary to equalize the absorbency. To do this, use a primer.

Ceiling putty

The ceiling is the most critical place in the repair. It is always in sight and must be perfect, without cracks and bumps. On a ceiling with a high-quality surface, unevenness is not visible with side lighting.

To achieve the ideal, apply the first layer of putty in one millimeter. This will help to remove all the irregularities of the ceiling. The second layer is applied with a finely dispersed vinyl-based putty. It penetrates well into micropores and makes the surface smooth.

Backlight setting

After the completion of the plaster, it remains to mount the spotlights. To do this, remove the wires from the drilled holes, rub the ends and put on the terminals. Then connect to the lamp and insert it into place. It is securely fixed thanks to spacer plates.

When creating a suspended plasterboard ceiling, each of the stages is important. This article details how to create a single level slab. By following the basic rules and technologies, you will be able to make a wonderful and durable ceiling on your own.

Video: installation of a two-level suspended plasterboard ceiling