The correct alternation of growing plants in your beds. how to plant vegetables the right way how to plant vegetables the right way
Foreword
The end of summer and almost the entire first half of autumn is a long-awaited time for gardeners who are in a hurry to plant new garden and garden crops in order to harvest next year. From whether it passes proper fit vegetables, will depend on the quality and quantity of the crop.
Take your time with crops - the first mistake
Too many novice gardeners start using other crops too early, which eventually leads to crop loss. And the point here is not only frosts, although, of course, they can also affect the quality of plant development. The main question is whether the soil is ready for work. If you sow seeds or plant seedlings in soil that has not yet warmed up after winter or is moist, they simply will not take root and will not germinate.
Determining the readiness of the soil is quite simple. To do this, take a handful of soil in your hand, squeeze it, forming a lump and simply “drop” it on the ground. If the soil has arrived and is ready for planting, then the lump of earth will fall apart upon impact. If the soil is not ready for planting, the lump will remain a lump.
If you really want to plant at least greens (onions, parsley, dill), then choose a place for yourself in the garden, cover this place with a film and wait until excess moisture comes out of the ground - only after that you can plant.
Proper planting of vegetables - how to choose the time?
Often problems with the emergence of plant sprouts occur due to too late sowing, especially if sowing is carried out in spring time of the year. So, in the spring, moisture leaves the soil quickly enough, and without it, the seeds will not be able to germinate.
If you are late with the planting time, then the plant seeds simply will not germinate. If you are still late, there is one way out - you need to water the garden as often as possible. If you do not want to water manually, you can equip the irrigation system on the site. Thus, the timing of vegetable planting is a very important factor for gardeners.
Rotation of crops is the key to a good harvest
Competent crop rotation (crop rotation) - necessary work for a quality crop. Unfortunately, few people know about this, either forgetting about the importance of crop rotation, or out of their own ignorance.
If all the time you sow the same crops in the same plot of the garden, over time, the balance of nutrients in the soil will simply be disturbed - it will simply begin to deplete. In addition, it threatens with a surge in diseases, especially if the plants you planted earlier were seriously ill. Alas, pest larvae and many of the soil are hard enough to completely drive out, even if you use the strongest medicines.
It is desirable that planting vegetables in the garden in such areas should not be carried out at all for at least a few years.
The importance of considering the requirements of plants for planting and care
Each type of tree, flower or any other plant has certain requirements for the time of planting, for the condition of the soil, for subsequent care. These requirements cannot be ignored, since it depends on them whether the crop will take root on the site and how it will develop in the future, whether it will yield a crop.
That is why it is advisable for you to study the basic requirements in advance so as not to make the mistake of not caring for the plants properly. So, for example, if you plant an ordinary radish and do not feed it or use other care methods, then it will bear fruit only by autumn. If you want to enjoy useful harvest radish in the middle of summer, then you need to try, using, weeding the garden, choosing the most acceptable ones.
Increase the yield of cultivated suburban area crops allows crop rotation. Long term cultivation plants on the same bed leads to the depletion of the soil, the accumulation of pests and diseases in it. The alternation of crops is also used in order to obtain 2-3 crops from the site annually (we are talking about compacted and repeated crops). That is why many summer residents think about what and after what you can plant in the garden. Moreover, it is recommended to draw up a plan for the placement of crops on the site every year in compliance with the order of alternation of crops. In practice, this gives a better yield. next year.
Main rule: Try not to return the same culture to its original place earlier than 3-4 years later. The later it happens re-seeding, all the better.
Vegetable crops that are similar in cultivation technology can (and conveniently) be placed in the garden nearby. In this regard, cultures are divided into the following groups:
Depending on this classification, plants are recommended to be moved around the site. BUT perennial vegetables easy to plant along the fence. So, the authors of the manual “Garden. Practical Tips"Recommend to alternate crops like this:
Table number 1: Good predecessors of vegetable crops in the garden
In another source (the book "Biological Basis for Obtaining high yields vegetable crops”) we find the following table:
Table number 2: What then can be planted next year
(Compiled on the basis of an analysis of the influence of predecessors on the yield of other vegetable crops):
Rotation table #3
(Source: My Favorite Dacha magazine)
Analyzing the data of three tables, let's go specifically for some cultures:
Then plant...
Onion
The best predecessor for onions are: cucumber, tomato, as well as early white cabbage, cauliflower and early potatoes. Acceptable predecessors are legumes and green crops. This refers to the cultivation of onions for turnips and sets.
Carrot
Like carrots, so beets are best planted after onions, cucumbers and early potato. Planting of root crops and after cabbage, tomatoes is allowed.
cucumbers
For cucumbers best predecessor named: potatoes, tomatoes, turnips, cabbage (early white and cauliflower), root crops, legumes (excluding beans) and green crops. It is permissible to plant cucumbers after radishes, beets and carrots.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes can be planted after an impressive list of crops: white cabbage (early and late), cauliflower, cucumbers, legumes and green crops (including radishes), root crops, turnips.
What to plant after...
garlic
Of all three tables, only one mentions garlic as a precursor. The source says that after garlic, it is permissible to plant table beets. And in the first source (not in the table, but in the text itself) it says that after harvesting onions and garlic, summer potatoes can be planted. Potatoes are also recommended to be grown in the aisles of garlic. They coexist perfectly. But the best neighborhood in the beds is garlic and strawberries. And if we consider that onions and garlic belong to the same group of plants, then their predecessors may also have common ones.
cabbage
After cabbage, you can plant tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, turnip onions and sets, cucumbers, potatoes, zucchini and squash, pumpkin, green crops, legumes.
Ogurtsov
Cucumbers are good predecessors for cabbage, carrots, beets, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, onions, radishes, turnips, radishes, garlic, dill, eggplant.
potato
After potatoes, it is good to plant cabbage, onions, root vegetables, cucumbers, greens and legumes, zucchini, pumpkins, squash, garlic.
Pepper
Pepper is not named in any of the tables as a predecessor, so we would recommend paying attention to its belonging to the Nightshade group (along with tomato and eggplant). Plants of this group may have common precursors.
Beets
After beets, it is ALLOWABLE to plant white and cauliflower, onions, carrots, cucumbers. And good - garlic, tomato.
Tomatoes
After tomatoes, white and cauliflower, green crops, legumes, and garlic are planted. Permissible - cucumbers, onions and root vegetables.
Kabachkov
Luke
We hope that the tables and lists compiled by us on the basis of reference books for gardeners and gardeners will help you decide on the alternation of crops on the site, develop a crop rotation plan for the next year and understand what is better to plant in the garden in the summer season 2018 😉 Great harvests for you !
Crop rotation refers to the successive cultivation of different crops in the same area. For many summer residents, this causes inconvenience, and they neglect this rule. Is it really necessary to observe crop rotation, what advantages does it give?
Why crop rotation is needed:
- If from year to year to plant the same crop (or similar) on permanent place, then an excess amount of harmful microorganisms, bacteria and insect larvae will accumulate in the soil, which in the future will damage more cultivated plants thus reducing the overall yield.
- Related plants feed on the same nutrients. At re-landing(without interruption) in the same place, a similar culture will lack nutrition, which will negatively affect its development.
- root system plants release toxins into the soil, which drastically reduce the quality of the soil for related crops.
Such negative factors accumulate gradually. Without crop rotation, the soil becomes poorer every year. Even the application of fertilizers will not fully save the situation.
Crop rotation rules
First, let's look at the general rules:
- For several years, it is impossible to plant not only the same vegetables, but also related crops in one area. For the same reason, it is pointless to carry out crop rotation between plants belonging to the same family.
- Try not to return the crop to its original place of cultivation for as long as possible.
- Do not leave unused areas that fall out of the crop rotation. Sow green manure on them to enrich the soil.
Planning should begin by making a list of all the yearly vegetable crops that you plant on the site.
The next step is to calculate the number of beds that will be required for crop rotation from the compiled list. It is important to find a balance here - you can plant up to 70% of the territory with potatoes, and allocate only 30% for the rest of the plants taken together. In this case, potatoes should be excluded from the crop rotation.
As practice has shown, it is most convenient to divide the garden into 4-5 parts.
Compatibility table
| culture | predecessors | ||
| the best | medium | bad | |
| eggplant | cabbage medium and late varieties, corn, spicy, beetroot | ||
| Legumes | strawberries, early potatoes, cabbage (all types), zucchini, onions, cucumbers, squash, pumpkin, garlic | eggplants, greens, carrots, peppers, spicy flavors, green manure, beets, tomatoes | legumes, corn |
| Greenery | legumes, cucumbers, zucchini, early white cabbage, cauliflower, onion, squash, green manure, pumpkin, garlic | eggplants, greens, early potatoes, corn, peppers, spice flavors, tomatoes, beets | medium and late-ripening white cabbage, carrots |
| Zucchini | |||
| Cabbage | legumes, zucchini, early potatoes (for medium and late varieties), onions, carrots (for medium and late varieties), cucumbers, tomatoes, green manure, beans | peas, greens, eggplant, pepper, lettuce, tomatoes | cabbage, cucumbers, radishes, beets, pumpkin |
| Potato | legumes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, zucchini, onions, cucumbers, squash, green manure, pumpkin, garlic | greens, cabbage of medium and late varieties, corn, carrots, spicy flavors, beets | tomatoes, peppers, eggplant |
| Corn | legumes, potatoes, beets | all crops except millet | millet |
| Onion | legumes, zucchini, early potatoes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, cucumbers, squash, pumpkin, green manure | greens, spice flavors, onion, garlic | |
| Carrot | greens, cabbage, onions, zucchini, early potatoes, cucumbers, squash, spice flavors, pumpkin | eggplants, legumes, cabbage, corn, onions, peppers, radishes, beets, tomatoes, garlic | beet |
| cucumbers | legumes, potatoes, early white cabbage, parsley, cauliflower, corn, onion, garlic | legumes, greens, early potatoes, spice flavors, beets | eggplant, white cabbage of medium and late varieties, carrots, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin |
| Squash | basil, legumes, potatoes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, corn, onion, garlic | legumes, greens, early potatoes, spice flavors, beets | eggplant, white cabbage of medium and late varieties, carrots, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin |
| Pepper | melons, legumes, greens, zucchini, white cabbage of early varieties, cauliflower, onions, carrots, cucumbers, squash, green manure, pumpkin, garlic | cabbage of medium and late varieties, corn, spicy flavors, radishes, beets | eggplant, early potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin |
| Sunflower | legumes, corn | potato | peas, tomatoes, beets, beans |
| Radish | legumes, potatoes, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, garlic, strawberries | eggplant, greens, corn, pepper, spicy flavors, tomatoes, beets | cabbage, carrot |
| Beetroot | greens, zucchini, onions, cucumbers, squash, spicy flavors, pumpkin, green manure | legumes, eggplants, early white cabbage, cauliflower, corn, onions, carrots, peppers, tomatoes, garlic | cabbage of medium and late varieties, potatoes, beets |
| tomatoes | basil, peas, greens, early white cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, cucumbers, green manure | legumes, white cabbage, medium and late dates ripening, corn, onion, spicy flavors, beets, garlic | eggplant, early potatoes, peppers, tomatoes |
| Pumpkin | legumes, potatoes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, corn, onion, parsley, garlic | legumes, greens, early potatoes, spice flavors, beets | eggplant, white cabbage of medium and late varieties, carrots, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin |
| Garlic | legumes, zucchini, early potatoes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, cucumbers, squash, pumpkin, green manure | eggplants, white cabbage of medium and late varieties, corn, peppers, beets, tomatoes | greens, spice flavors, radish, onion, garlic |
| Strawberry | legumes, onions, radishes, carrots, garlic, dill | cabbage, corn | potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes |
Good luck with your harvest!
Freshly picked vegetables from the garden are rich in substances important for life and are especially fragrant. Hardly any gardener will refuse them. However, in order to get a healthy and rich harvest, it is important to plan the sequence and combination of different vegetables in time.
Vegetable planting planning
For vegetable planting planning it is better to use the winter months as the following needs to be considered:
- Distribution of beds. It is optimal to divide the site into 2 or 3 parts with different nutrient content. So, on the one hand, you can swap strong and weak consumers, on the other hand, different types of vegetables.
- Sequence of crops throughout the year: this means planning short early crops, then main crop, so that the bed is used optimally throughout the year.
- Mixed cultures: It is also worth thinking about which vegetables can be combined and which cannot.
Nutrient requirements of vegetables
Nutrient Requirements certain types vegetables varies greatly. Regarding the need for nitrogen, vegetables can be divided into strong, medium and weak consumers. These needs must be taken into account when preparing beds and fertilizing.
The nutrient requirements of individual types of vegetables vary significantly.
Strong consumers (high demand for nitrogen): green, white and red cabbage, Chinese cabbage, kale, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, broccoli, celery, onions, chard, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, zucchini, pumpkin.
Average consumers (average nitrogen demand): carrot, red beetroot, radish, scorzoner, kohlrabi, onion, potato, fennel, eggplant, spinach, field lettuce, head lettuce, chicory.
Weak consumers (low need for nitrogen): peas, beans, radishes, nasturtium (bugbug), herbs and spices.
Crop rotation
Crop rotation is one of the most important tricks in agricultural technology of vegetable crops. When sowing on garden plot for two or three consecutive years of the same crop, the land is depleted because that crop consumes the same nutrients, the diseases and pests that the crop is susceptible to multiply, and as a result, the yield decreases. So each vegetable crop should return to its old place in three or four, at least two years.
Crop rotation is one of the most important methods in agricultural technology of vegetable crops.
The main idea is to the land was not used unilaterally by changing plantings. This shifting rhythm prevents:
- unilateral consumption of soil nutrients,
- one-sided load on the soil due to the growth of the roots of certain plants,
- penetration into the soil of diseases and pests that specialize in certain plants.
So cruciferous (Cruciferae) cannot be planted one after another in the same area, since this plant family is specialized dangerous diseases and pests. These include all types of cabbage, radish, radish and some green manure plants such as mustard and winter rapeseed.
Important: It is necessary to arrange separate beds for long-growing crops such as rhubarb or strawberries, which do not participate in the annual rotation of crops.
1st year. Divide the area. Prepare one part by applying manure and compost (also green manure), and in autumn or spring for strong and medium nitrogen consumers. Weak consumers of nitrogen will be planted in the second part.
2nd year. Now the plants are changing places. The same vegetables are planted in the same places no earlier than 3 years later.
| Vegetable culture of the previous 2014 | Vegetable culture of the current 2015 | Vegetable culture of the subsequent 20016 |
| Potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, beans, peas, beans, tomatoes, peppers, greens (except lettuce), turnip onions, garlic | Cabbage: white, broccoli, kohlrabi, red, cauliflower | Carrots, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root), cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, peas, beans, greens (except lettuce), beans |
| Potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers, beets, greens (except lettuce), peas, beans, turnip onions, garlic | Carrots, parsnips, parsley (on the root), celery (on the root) | Cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, greens, radishes, turnips, radishes. After all, except for carrots: cucumbers, zucchini, turnip onions, garlic, beans, peas, beans |
| Cucumbers, zucchini, potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, beans, peas, beans, green | Beet | Potatoes, carrots, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root), greens, radishes, radishes, turnips, cucumbers, zucchini, garlic, turnip onions, peas, beans |
| Potatoes, cabbage, greens, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root), beets, radishes, radishes, turnips, tomatoes, peppers, turnip onions, garlic, beans, peas | Cucumbers, zucchini | Potatoes, cabbage, beets, radishes, radishes, turnips, carrots, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root), greens, tomatoes, peppers, peas, beans, beans, garlic, turnip onions |
| Cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, beans, peas, carrots, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root), greens, turnip onions, garlic | Tomatoes, peppers | Cabbage, carrots, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root), beets, radishes, radishes, turnips, cucumbers, zucchini, peas, beans, beans |
| Greens, cabbage, beets, carrots, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root), radishes, radishes, turnips, cucumbers, zucchini, garlic, turnip onions, peas, beans, beans | Potato | Cabbage, carrots, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root), beets, radishes, radishes, turnips, greens, cucumbers, zucchini, turnip onions, garlic, peas, beans, beans |
| Potatoes, carrots, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root), turnips, radishes, radishes, beets, zucchini, cucumbers, cabbage | Greens: lettuce, watercress, dill, mustard, parsley (for greens), celery (for greens), chives, basil, etc. | Potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers, turnip onions, garlic, beets. After all, except lettuce: cabbage, carrots, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root) |
| Potatoes, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root), beets, greens, cucumbers, zucchini, turnips, radishes, radishes,. peas, beans, beans | Turnip onion, garlic | Potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers, radishes, turnips, radishes, carrots, parsnips, parsley and celery (per root) |
| Potatoes, carrots, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root), beets, cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers, turnip onions, garlic | Radish, radish, turnip | Greens, potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, turnip onions, garlic |
| Potatoes, cabbage, beets, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root), tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, zucchini | beans, peas | Potatoes, cabbage, garlic, turnip onions, carrots, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root), beets, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, zucchini |
| Potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, parsnips, parsley and celery (on the root) | Beans | Potatoes, cabbage, beets, turnip onions, garlic, tomatoes, peppers |
If you have difficulty using the table, then try to remember that you can not plant!
- cabbage after beets, radishes, radishes, turnips
- onions after cabbage, carrots, tomatoes
- carrots after beans
- cucumbers after carrots, beans
- tomatoes after potatoes
- beets after carrots, cabbage
By drawing on paper a plan of your beds and indicating on it a vegetable crop that will grow in your chosen place, you can also calculate the number of rows that you can sow. And it will immediately become clear to you how many seeds of this vegetable crop you need to purchase.
mixed cultures
At the same time, cultures that stimulate each other are combined. In addition, head species, such as cabbage and lettuce, should be interchanged with slow-growing and deep-rooted vegetables, and tuberous species with plants that have flat-growing roots. Thus, there is no competition for water, light and nutrients above and below ground.
Mixed crops can be planted more densely and produce richer crops.
Combination of crops - types of vegetables and their compatibility with each other
| Vegetables | Compatible | Poor compatibility |
| Beans (Leguminosae) | Legumes, cucumbers, lettuces, potatoes, cabbage, celery, spinach, tomatoes, radishes, red beets, kohlrabi, carrots | Peas, fennel, onion |
| Peas (Leguminosae) | Cucumbers, fennel, cabbage, kohlrabi, carrots, radishes, radishes, salads, zucchini | Beans, potatoes, onions, tomatoes |
| Fennel (Umbelliferae) | Peas, salads | Beans, tomatoes |
| Cucumbers (Cucurbitaceae) | Dill, beans, peas, garlic, cabbage, onions, red beets, salads, celery | Potatoes, tomatoes, radish, radish |
| Potato (Solanaceae) | Beans, cabbage, kohlrabi, spinach | Red beets, celery, tomatoes, cucumbers |
| Cabbage (varieties) (Cruciferae) | Dill, beans, peas, cucumbers, radishes, radishes, red beets, salads, celery, spinach, tomatoes | Garlic, onion |
| Kohlrabi (Cruciferae) | Peas, potatoes, onions, radishes, radishes, red beets, scorzonera, celery, spinach, salads | Cabbage |
| Onion, garlic (Liliaceae) | Cucumbers, kohlrabi, carrots, scorzonera, tomatoes, celery | Beans, peas, red beets |
| Carrot (Umbelliferae) | Peas, garlic, onions, tomatoes, radishes, radishes, salads, scorzonera | Celery |
| Pepper (Solanaceae) | Cucumbers, kohlrabi | Beans, tomatoes |
| Radish/radish (Cruciferae) | Beans, peas, lettuce, carrots, spinach, tomatoes | Cucumbers, onions, cabbage |
| Red beet (Chenopodiaceae) | Beans, peas, garlic, kohlrabi, salads, zucchini, green onions | Potato, onion, spinach |
| Salads (Compositae) | Peas, cucumbers, cabbage, fennel, carrots, radishes, radishes, tomatoes, onions | Celery |
| Scorzonera (Compositae) | kohlrabi, carrot, onion | Salads |
| Celery (Umbelliferae) | Beans, cucumbers, cabbage, kohlrabi, onions, spinach, tomatoes | Carrots, potatoes, salads |
| Spinach (Chenopodiaceae) | Beans, potatoes, cabbage, kohlrabi, radishes, celery, tomatoes | Red beetroot |
| Tomatoes (Solanaceae) | Beans, garlic, onions, carrots, radishes, radishes, celery, spinach | Peas, cucumbers, potatoes, fennel, peppers |
| Zucchini (Cucurbitaceae) | Beans, peas, red beets, onions | cucumbers |
| Green onion (Liliaceae) | Cucumbers, carrots, red beets, lettuce, tomatoes, zucchini | Beans, peas, cabbage, radish, radish |
The weather is getting better, the sun is shining brighter, and under its gentle rays, not only fragile green leaves appear, but also thoughts about future plantings. After they appear, we go to the store of seeds and plants and buy, buy, buy: everything is so beautiful, inexpensive, and, it turns out, we absolutely need all this!
Familiar situation? In this case, we recommend that you sit on a bench right in the store, take a break and read our compatibility article. various kinds plants. Perhaps after this most of your purchases will go to their original location.
You must have noticed that in some people’s garden everything grows and booms, while in others it doesn’t even sprout? If you sadly relate yourself to the latter, do not be discouraged: it's not about you! Most likely, you are simply planting your plants incorrectly, and in this matter both "neighborhood" and order are important. For example, onion and carrot will become excellent neighbors, as the culprit of tears releases a special substance that saves defenseless carrots from pests.
A good solution would be to land peas Near pumpkin: the latter will not allow weeds to grow. If you love growing tomatoes, but the harvest does not please you too much, plant a bed next to it basilica- its smell is not tolerated by caterpillars who want to spoil your tomatoes. In addition, both plants need the same care and watering, so you will make your task much easier. The same can be said about eggplant and Bulgarian pepper.
Leaf salad quite unpretentious and ready to coexist peacefully with many plants, but keep in mind that he will feel bad next to parsley - avoid such a neighborhood. Sunflower it is better to plant far away from other plants, since it releases substances into the ground that prevent everyone but him from growing. If most of your plantings suffer from pest invasion, then you can plant nearby sunny flowers marigolds (marigolds): they will do an excellent job of repelling insects and at the same time decorate the beds.
The sequence of planting plants in the soil is also important, which can be oversaturated with any harmful components or, conversely, necessary elements may not be enough.For example, it is very good to grow carrots and beets after potatoes, but such a predecessor will not fit tomatoes categorically. Follow the vegetable cycle on the table below and you definitely can't go wrong with planting.
Separately, it is worth mentioning about the beds: if you think that it is enough to throw seeds into the ground with a generous handful, then you are greatly mistaken. The shape and type of the bed largely determines the abundance of your future harvest, as well as the frequency of your "exploits" with a shovel and chopper. If you don’t like to mess around in the garden at all, then ideal solution for you will be the so-called "lazy" beds. This version of the beds absolutely does not require weeding or care, yes, yes, you read everything correctly.
Preparation of such beds is done in advance in order to carefully and properly fertilize the soil. The soil is also mulched, which subsequently does not allow weeds to sprout. The earth is loosened and weeded once - during planting. After that, regular watering is enough. To some, this idea may seem strange, but it really works.
The soil fertilized in advance saturates the plants with all the necessary components, and the correct planting of the "neighbors" reduces the appearance of weeds and pests to a minimum. In addition, due to the lack of weeding, the plants grow larger and hardier.
Another interesting option are "smart" beds. In composition, they are very similar to "lazy", but in "smart" beds, the emphasis is on even more thorough fertilization of the soil - most often it is compost with the addition of straw. Above similar combination covered with a small layer of soil. Such beds are often made very high, they can reach a height of more than a meter. This contributes to the fact that the landing is better warmed up by the sun.