How to grow a climbing rose in the country. Re-planting roses in one place is not desirable

As you know, there are many types of roses that summer residents and gardeners should pay attention to. Despite the fact that often the owners decide to plant lush rose bushes, it makes sense to pay attention to the so-called climbing roses, the appearance of which is simply unique. The thing is that it is climbing roses that resemble grapes that wrap around any surface and seem to become part of a particular structure or other object. Climbing roses, among other things, have a unique appearance, which attracts with the bright color of the buds, as well as the density of the leaves.

Many call profusely overgrown climbing roses a blooming carpet that can turn even a gray and unattractive area into a truly fabulous territory.

Despite the fact that modern views roses are hardy enough to any conditions, climbing roses still need to be taken care of, since losing such a wonderful plant would be a monstrous mistake. Practice shows that a minimum of effort is needed to maintain the excellent state of a climbing rose, but these same efforts are needed with a certain regularity.

In this article, we will look at the main details associated with climbing roses, as well as analyze the conditions in which the plant will feel most comfortable. Separately, we will go through the main events that allow us to save roses from severe cold and frosty wind.

Features of climbing roses

First of all, you need to understand that climbing roses are significantly different from other types of roses. However, these differences practically do not concern the appearance of this culture. The point is that climbing roses are often planted in regions where a warm and mild climate with moderate humidity prevails. If we are talking about areas where winter period the temperature can reach tens of degrees below zero - it is better to refuse the idea of ​​​​planting climbing roses. In extreme cases, you can consider the option of a reliable covering for flowers, which will minimize exposure to low temperatures. However, we will talk about this in more detail later in this material.

Yet again, main feature climbing roses is their appearance. The bottom line is that every owner can create just such flower arrangement whatever you wish. In this case, it all depends on where the rose is planted, and what is next to this place. Often, people who want to create an attractive composition of roses use special frames made of metal fittings. In the end, climbing roses are wrapped around pieces of reinforcement, and a kind of “live” composition is obtained. It is worth emphasizing that this is also not such a simple process, since it is quite difficult to evenly cover the frame or other base with a plant. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that the shrub will not develop so quickly, so you will have to wait a few seasons before the composition based on climbing roses becomes the focus of the site.

Varieties of climbing roses

Obviously, there are a huge number of varieties of roses, so every gardener or summer resident will choose for himself exactly those roses that look attractive, and also differ in other positive aspects. It is interesting that the appearance of roses may not differ much, but key features will let you know. For example, we can talk about the plant's resistance to low temperatures or the flowering period.

The main varieties currently available for sale are as follows:

• Rose Climbing Sympathy.
• Rose Climbing Polka.
• Climbing rose Pierre de Ronsard.
• Climbing rose Flamentanz.
• Climbing rose Hendel.
• Rose climbing Santana.
• Climbing rose Cordes.
• Rosa climbing Lagoon.
• Climbing rose Rosarium Uetersen.
• Climbing rose Golden perfume.

Groups of climbing roses

To begin with, it should be borne in mind that there is an international classification of climbing roses, with the help of which even specialists are guided. There are 3 groups in total, and we will analyze each of them in detail.

• 1st group. This group includes real and climbing roses, which have sufficient flexibility, as well as the arcuate shape of the shoots. As for the length, often curly parts can reach 5 meters. The shoots themselves have a green color, which is distinguished by a juicy color, crooked spikes. Flowers can have different colors. By themselves, they are terry or semi-double. Flowering is abundant, which lasts for a whole month (often this is the first half of summer). The leaves have a characteristic luster and high rigidity (most often the leaves are small). As for the winter period, roses belonging to this group may not unnecessary problems transfer coolness, however, a little shelter should still be provided. Also, one should not forget about the cold wind, which can harm even the most frost-resistant plants.
• 2nd group. Interestingly, this group was created on the basis of tea, hybrid and remontant roses. As a result, the second group received unique features. We are talking about long shoots that can reach 4 m. In addition, the growth itself is very active. Flowers are collected in small inflorescences, and outwardly it is all very similar to hybrid roses. The main difference of this group is excellent resistance to the cool season, resistance to diseases that usually affect roses, as well as repeated flowering, which is incredibly pleasing to many owners. Of course, one cannot exclude the fact that this group of climbing roses will still succumb to diseases, but this probability is extremely small.
• 3rd group. Well, if we talk about the final group of climbing roses, then it was created on the basis of peculiar mutations of bush plants that are distinguished by large flowering. The owners of this group have to taste because of the bright color, as well as large-sized flowers. Unlike past groups, these flowers come to the flowering period for a long time, and for many summer residents this can be of great importance.

The process of growing climbing roses

First of all, it is advisable to deal with the place where the roses will be planted. Experts recommend choosing places for such tasks that are distinguished by the presence of direct sunlight, as well as excellent ventilation. In addition, it is best to land on higher ground, but one should not forget that the sunny "hell" for roses is not the best environment, even if all other conditions for the plant are ideal. At the same time good lighting for climbing roses, it is a guarantee that in a year they will delight with active flowering. Again, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the soil on the basis of which the planting takes place is moderately fertile. It is best to opt for loamy soil, which has low humidity. As you know, for most roses, the high humidity of the root system is a serious problem, so this should be taken into account not only when choosing best place for planting, but also when caring for the plant.

Planting climbing roses

• The area of ​​\u200b\u200beach hole for planting climbing roses should be about 50x50 cm in size. The holes themselves must be prepared directly before the responsible process. This is the idea that manure is introduced into the recess (which should be no deeper than 50 cm), as well as a certain amount of water.
• After the planting has taken place, you need to cut off the aerial part of the plant a little. It is best to make sure that the length of the vegetation does not exceed 20 cm. If everything is done correctly, climbing roses will show tremendous growth in the near future.
• The distance between any objects from the landing site should be at least 0.5 m. If this value is less, then it cannot be ruled out that the growth of climbing roses will not be slowed down.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the process of transplanting climbing roses. This is an extremely responsible process, which can be accompanied by many difficulties, therefore, in most cases, in order not to lose such an amazing plant, it makes sense to turn to knowledgeable people.

Care specifics for climbing roses

• Unlike some other flowers, climbing roses take a lot of time to maintain regularly. Of course, this is not a problem for those people who like to spend a lot of time in their summer cottage or garden. First of all, we are talking about the time spent on watering, pruning bushes, as well as regular top dressing.
• Pruning bushes should be done at least a couple of times a season, as climbing roses will gradually lose their shape. If you do not trim the branches on time, then the situation may be too neglected. In addition, as we have already said, the growth activity of climbing roses may also depend on pruning.
• As for top dressing, we are talking about fertilizers that have a positive effect on the overall growth of climbing roses. It must be borne in mind that manure, which is used even when planting a plant, has an effect for a couple of years, after which it is necessary to resort to feeding again. Experts advise choosing mineral fertilizers that have a positive effect on growth and flowering. Interestingly, during the growing season, these roses need about 5 top dressings.

Pruning climbing roses

Returning to the pruning of climbing roses, attention should be paid to the fact that timely action can ensure the growth of new shoots up to 3.5 m in one season. Of course, this cannot but attract, since short span time the plant becomes really amazing in appearance. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that without reliable protection from severe frosts, pruning may not have any effect.

In addition, do not forget that we are talking about different groups ah climbing roses, so pruning will happen a little differently.

The main shoots of climbing roses must be removed only after 3-4 years of flowering. It is also worth bearing in mind that many roses for the next season acquire several new shoots based on one old one. Thus, it is advisable to leave up to 5 shoots on one shrub. There are also roses that bloom a couple of times a year, in which case the shoots need to be cut off after 5 years, since before this period the weakening of the shoots should not be observed.

You should not be afraid to remove young shoots if they interfere with the formation of attractive outwardly vegetation.

The good news is that rose bushes that have been planted for at least a couple of years can be called "adult" and are the easiest to prune. In such situations, you can immediately see what needs to be removed and what is better left. It is necessary to observe the proportions of the shrub, as otherwise it may be disturbed general position plants, and problems can no longer be avoided.

If ordinary pruning does not help to form shrubs (or other forms), more tricky tools need to be used. We are talking about a garter, as well as supports, with which you can fix almost any plant. After a certain period, you can safely remove auxiliary elements, and the shrub itself will have the necessary proportions.

Winter and climbing roses

It's no secret that for many plants, including roses, winter is not best time for active development. However, the most a big problem consists in low temperatures, which can easily adversely affect the general condition of the shrub. Attention should be paid to the fact that in the case of climbing roses it is extremely important to provide reliable protection from low temperatures and cold winds.

As we have already said, most climbing roses are plants that are resistant to frost. However, this does not negate the fact that it is still necessary to prepare flowers for the winter period.

• In winter, you need to stop any activities related to loosening the soil, fertilizer and the like. Thus, it is worth paying attention to the fact that you should start creating a shelter for climbing roses only when the frosts have already begun (we are talking about temperatures from -5 Celsius). If you do this ahead of schedule, then under cover, the roses can simply rot. Not good low temperatures positively affect the condition of the plant, as it gradually prepares for really severe frosts, and if such a situation does occur, there should not be any special problems.
• Most often, the covering for climbing roses is prepared already in August. It is worth paying attention to the fact that everything needs to be done gradually, since too abrupt steps in this situation can only do harm. As we said in the last paragraph, minimal frosts allow you to strengthen the bush, and in some way prepare it for too low a temperature.
• Preparation of roses for winter occurs exclusively in dry weather conditions. In this case, the supports are removed, and the shoots are also cleaned. Damaged leaves of climbing roses must be removed. Accordingly, all those measures are being taken that will improve the condition of the plant at the beginning of the next season (active growth will occur).
• The whip must be tied with a rope, and then pressed to the ground (at the highest possible level). Ideally, climbing roses should be at ground level so that the frosty wind cannot affect the plant in any way. Above it is advisable to place polyethylene film. In addition, you can cover the plant with dry leaves. Both options are good, but you need to make sure that the roses do not mate if the temperature suddenly rises outside.

The specifics of the reproduction of climbing roses

First of all, it must be said that climbing roses in the best way propagated by green cuttings. There is information that in this situation, rooting is practically guaranteed. It is advisable to carry out cuttings starting from the second half of June.

The cuttings themselves are cut directly from healthy shoots. It is important to note that the leaves from the lower part of the plant must be removed, and the cutting itself is placed in the sand with the ground to a shallow depth (about 1 cm). For such cultivation of climbing roses, it is advisable to use a small box or pot. It is also necessary to make sure that the cutting is in moderate shade, since the bright sun may not be the best way to affect its condition.

As for watering, it is necessary to do it regularly, but moderately, since any excess can significantly damage the cutting.

Options for the location of climbing roses on the site

If we are talking about planting climbing roses in a summer cottage or garden plot, you should pay attention directly to the place where the plant will be located.

Cultivation specialists various kinds roses, note that climbing plant can be planted almost anywhere, but the most important thing is the location, on which the condition of the roses, as well as the general appearance of the territory, may depend. Thus, attention should be paid to the recommendations to plant near trees, or near previously planted bushes. It must be borne in mind that planting climbing roses near other plants is a crucial step, since when pruning branches and other elements, special care will be required so as not to hook on the neighboring crop.

In addition, people with experience recommend not using other plants as a support for climbing roses, as at one moment something can go wrong and the plant will be in an extremely dangerous situation. Thus, it makes sense to pay attention to the standard supports that we talked about earlier. With their help, you can be sure of the correct growth of the shrub, and if necessary, without any problems, subject the plant to some changes in terms of position. Again, when climbing roses reach large sizes, it will take a lot of effort and care to maintain an acceptable condition, since miniature supports may not withstand the large weight of the plant.

Ecology of life. Manor: Gardeners have always been especially admired by the climbing rose with its long branches strewn with luxurious flowers. This is a real find for a landscape designer, which allows you to create flowering arches, columns, arbors, fences.

Climbing rose with its long branches strewn with luxurious flowers has always been especially admired by gardeners. This is a real find for a landscape designer, which allows you to create flowering arches, columns, arbors, fences.

Despite the huge whips, reaching 5-6 m in length, all varieties of climbing roses are shrubs. One would think that in this case, planting and caring for them is similar to other types of roses, but everything is not so simple. Long whips impose special obligations on the owner of such luxury. Therefore, in order to achieve real aesthetics from a climbing rose, you need to know how to properly care for it.

Planting time: spring or autumn?

All types of "queen of flowers" are considered rather capricious, and climbing roses are no exception, care for which must be thought through to the smallest detail. And you need to start with the right choice of landing time. It is best to time this event for the May warm days.

In this case, you will be sure that before winter the plants will have time to get stronger and will not die during the cold weather. Climbing rose bushes with dormant buds can be planted before the buds begin to bloom on the trees, as soon as the soil warms up to 10-12 °. In the event that you bought a seedling in a greenhouse (that is, with leaves), then it is necessary to plant it only after the buds open on the trees.

You can also plant bushes in August-September, but then there is always a risk of plant death if it does not have time to properly take root before the onset of frost.

Place to land

The site for planting a climbing rose should be well lit in the morning. This is important, since it is the morning warm sun will dry the dew on the leaves and will not give a chance to fungal diseases. A completely open area is not as desirable, as midday sunlight can cause the delicate petals to “burn out” and even the entire plant to dry out.

Be sure to pay attention to the fact that the chosen place is protected from cold north and northeast winds, and also not located on the corner of the building, where drafts are constantly walking - the gentle climbing rose does not like this, its development will inevitably be oppressed.

Soil for climbing roses: what to consider?

Climbing rose develops normally only on permeable soils. This means that rain (or irrigation) water must freely pass deep into the earth and not linger in the root zone. Otherwise, rotting of the root system and death of the plant from lack of nutrition are inevitable.

Therefore, if the groundwater in your area is too close to the surface of the earth, you should plant roses only on hills. However, if this is not possible, you can do it differently: dig a hole to a depth that does not reach the groundwater level, and then concrete the bottom or put a large flat stone there.

Such a precautionary measure will not allow groundwater to "get" to the root zone and damage them, in addition, the taproots will not deepen and their bulk, as they grow, will not be located vertically, but horizontally. After that, a sufficient layer of fertile soil is poured onto the stone or concrete, where the plant is subsequently planted.

Climbing roses grow best on fertile loam - they are water and breathable enough to provide good nutrition to the root system. Heavy clay and light sandy soil are not suitable for growing roses. At the same time, if such soil is on your site, you should not despair.

You can improve the situation by adding clay soils sand, and sandy diluted with clay. This will adjust the permeability of the soil to air and water, but will not add fertility to the soil. To improve this indicator, you should add humus or humus to the soil.

Distance between climbing roses

When planting, it is necessary to ensure a distance between roses equal to 0.5 - 1 m in a row and 1-2 m between rows. In the event that planting is carried out near the gazebo or the wall of the house, then the distance between the plant and the blind area should be at least 0.35 - 0.5 m.

You can divide the garden into several zones using trellises lined with climbing roses on both sides. Plants are planted in a checkerboard pattern so as not to obscure each other. At the same time, the distance between them is maintained at 0.5 - 1 m, as in the usual landing pattern. Such a screen will be decorative all summer, even when the climbing rose has faded.

Preparing a seedling for planting

Before you start planting, the rose bush must be carefully inspected and all broken, crushed and rotten parts of the root system must be removed. Sections for disinfection are powdered with crushed charcoal to prevent rotting of the resulting wounds. Next, it is desirable to dip the roots into a mixture-talker, consisting of clay mixed with fresh mullein (10%) and phosphorobacterin. 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin are preliminarily dissolved in 0.5 l of water, and then this composition is poured into 9.5 l of mash. Mullein can be replaced with heteroauxin by adding 1 tablet to 10 liters of mash.

At spring planting seedlings of any variety of climbing roses are pruned. At the same time, two developed buds are left on strong shoots, and one on weak ones. If planting takes place in the fall, then pruning is still done in the spring, after removing the winter shelter from the bushes.

Planting and caring for a young seedling

To begin with, they dig a hole, the dimensions of which should ensure free placement of the roots, and the root neck must be deepened by at least 10 cm. the temperature does not fall below -2 degrees. Also, the deepening of the root neck of self-rooted climbing roses will contribute to the formation of a large number of additional roots.

A mound of fertile soil is poured into the hole, around which the roots are evenly spread and covered, leaving no voids if possible. After filling the hole with earth, it is rammed with feet. Own-rooted climbing roses are watered with a mixture of phosphorobacterin and heteroauxin for better survival.

During the growing season, the weaving rose needs regular watering, top dressing, removal of weeds, dried flowers and weak branches.
Already after the removal of the winter shelter with the onset of spring heat, pruning is carried out, last year's plant remains, spray roses with pesticides, loosen the soil around the plant, and apply the necessary fertilizers.

Proper pruning of climbing roses

Climbing roses need proper pruning, the purpose of which is to form, get a long and abundant flowering, crown health improvement. Pruning also helps to get a solid cover of the plant with new shoots.

Pruning is carried out after the plant has completely faded, that is, at the end of summer. First of all, diseased and damaged branches are cut out. Strong annual shoots are not deleted. Old shoots are removed if new replacement shoots have appeared on the branch. That is, pruning is done in such a way that instead of old shoots new, annual ones come. Biennial shoots are not pruned - it is on them that the bulk of the flowers will be concentrated next summer.

garter of climbing roses

When forming a climbing rose, one should not strive for all the main branches to grow upwards. It may happen that all the flowers and leaves are "relocated" to the upper part of the plant, and this will not add to its aesthetics.

Therefore, in order to avoid such a nuisance, you need to try to direct the main branches horizontally. Then vertical side shoots will soon appear on them, growing upwards. A similar principle of forming a weaving rose will perfectly mask a trellis or wall, as well as provide luxurious and long flowering.

This will be of interest to you:

Climbing rose care in winter

In winter, any roses, including climbing ones, require shelter. At the same time, it is important to know that there should be air space between the shelter (film, roofing felt, spruce branches) and the plant. If possible, the lashes of roses are removed from the support, rotten, diseased shoots are removed, as well as all leaves.

After that, the branches are wrapped with twine and fastened to the ground with wooden or metal studs. From above, the whips are covered with roofing felt, film, leaves or spruce branches. You can also cover a climbing rose right on a support, for example, if it wraps around an arch. In this case, at first, the support is tied with burlap, roofing paper or film, and then covered with spruce branches. published

Beautiful, well-groomed ... In a word, not a garden, but a photo from a magazine. Are you dreaming about this? Select a corner for a rose garden on the site. Create it according to your own scheme, without involving a designer in the design. How to make a rose garden in the country with your own hands - read the article.

Types and styles of rose gardens

To create a perennial flower garden of roses that will delight you for more than one year, decide on a goal. Think about what you would like to see in this corner, what mood you want to charge from it. Before you make a rose garden with your own hands, look at photos of different flower beds and choose the one that suits you. There are several types of design:

• Romantic. This flower garden looks good near the gazebo. Consists of roses of gentle shades. In conjunction with tall plants creates an atmosphere of comfort, peace;

romantic rose garden

• front door. As the name implies, these are festive compositions with bright, often contrasting colors. Greenery looks very elegant and advantageous here;

front rose garden

• Visible from one side. Fits small areas. As an option, place it near a wall or near a fence. For example, place tall park roses in the background. Closer to the edges - medium-sized climbing, in the foreground - ground cover;

Rosary, visible from one side

• Visible from different angles. Flowers for this rose garden should be planted from the center to the edges. Inside will be the most tall plants, you need to surround them with medium-sized roses. The composition should be completed by low-growing varieties;

Rosary seen from different angles

• Vertical. Climbing perennial varieties roses will perfectly decorate the arch or gazebo, eventually completely covering them;

Vertical rose garden

Advice. Remember that roses cannot grow in the right direction on their own. Do it by hand, using supports and garters. Form weaving in accordance with your idea.

• Rosary-rock garden. Ground cover varieties are used for it. They bloom profusely and are unpretentious in care. Roses of this type grow well, so they quickly make a fragrant motley carpet. A beautiful ensemble is obtained from a combination of roses with stones on an alpine hill;

Rosary-rock garden

• Mobile. The name speaks for itself: this is a mobile rose garden that can be arranged in containers, flowerpots. Looks harmoniously along the paths, at the entrance, best of all in a sunny place. For such a flower garden, take low, profusely flowering varieties of roses. After planting, drain, do not forget about watering and fertilizing. For the winter, store the containers in a heated room.

Mobile rose garden

In addition, decide on the style of your future rosary. In modern design, the most common:

landscape rose garden

How to chart a rosary

Having decided on the place, type and style of the rose garden, draw up its plan. It will help you visualize the final version of the flower garden. To begin with, mark the borders of the future kingdom of roses on the diagram. For them, you can use borders or undersized flowers.

So that different plants do not interfere with each other, decide on sizes and varieties. Look at the photos of blooming roses, choose the ones you like. Write down their names and mark them on the diagram with numbers. Mark where you are going to take place undersized, and where - tall.

Rosary plan

Which corners will be occupied by perennial flowers, and where new bushes will need to be planted annually is another aspect of the plan. Mark on the diagram the areas where you want to plant certain groups of roses. Think about whether their color combination will be harmonious.

Advice. In order for groups of plants that are inharmonious in color to “get along” in one rose garden, dilute them with varieties with white inflorescences. Do not combine warm shades(cream, orange) with cold (burgundy, cherry).

Before you make a rose garden with your own hands, decide: where and what crops will be planted as background. Consider whether perennial shrubs or stone compositions fit into the ensemble you created. look various photos with diagrams and draw up your plan on paper.

How to make a rose garden with your own hands. Instruction

1. Prepare the area. It should be sunny, but not blown, free from debris, weeds. "Queens of flowers" like well-drained soil, by no means clay. Perfect option- take care of the soil in advance, around the middle of summer, in order to plant roses in the fall. To do this, dig the ground (approximate depth - 60 cm), loosen upper layer and apply fertilizer. In 2-3 months you will receive good soil suitable for roses.

   

   Garden tools for arranging a rose garden with your own hands

2. Make holes. Their depth is about 10 cm more than the length of the roots (50-60 cm), width - from 25 cm to 1.5 m (depending on the variety). If the groundwater in your area is more than 1 m, you can do without drainage. Otherwise, put small stones, gravel or expanded clay on the bottom of each hole, pour some earth on top.

   

   Preparing holes for planting roses

3. Prepare seedlings. Cut the roots to a length of 30 cm, remove the damaged ones. The part that remains above the ground, shorten to 2-3 strong shoots. Leaves on the handle should not be.

   

   Seedling prepared for planting in open ground

4. Remove the bush from the container or pot and plant, after moistening it. This is necessary so that the earthen ball does not crumble. Depending on the growing conditions, seedlings are distinguished:
   • with a closed root system (initially, each sprout was planted in a separate container, in which it grew);
   • with an open root system (such specimens grew in the field and were placed in containers immediately before the sale).

   

   Scheme: the process of planting rose bushes

5. Based on this, there are differences in landing. Bushes with a closed root system are simply lowered vertically into the hole and evenly covered with earth (for this they need to be shaken periodically). For seedlings of the second type, you should first make a small mound in a dug hole. They put a bush on it and cover it with earth. In both cases, make sure that the roots do not bend upwards.
6. After planting, compact the soil, and loosen the top layer. Water the seedlings.

   

   Bush after planting in the ground

Rules for the care of the rosary

Regardless of which rose garden you prefer (romantic or rock garden), within 2 weeks after planting, do not forget about regular watering of the bushes. For the winter, you need to spud the holes with earth (20-30 cm) or cover the shoots with sawdust and sand. Mulch the soil to keep it from drying out.

Watering rose bushes

Apply organic or mineral fertilizers. Weed and prune roses in summer, spring and after flowering. If grafting plants, remove wild growth. Form bushes in a timely manner. For tall varieties, put props.

Combinations of roses with other plants

If you decide not to make a rose garden exclusively from roses alone, think about the flowers that will grow next to them. After all, how successful the combination will be will depend on general form your flower garden. Carefully select the border for the bushes. It will hide their lower, non-flowering part. For example, for a rosary in a romantic style fit green or silver frame made of boxwood, chistets.

Rose bushes next to other crops

For a vibrant rose garden, add greenery, gold, or purple to the fence. Barberry, aster, santolina are suitable for this. good neighbors for "Queen of Flowers":

• perennials - irises, carnation, periwinkle, primrose;
• annuals - pansies, salvia, begonia, delphinia.

Advice. To protect against pests and diseases, it is worth planting marigolds, lavender or sage next to roses.

Roses look beautiful with plants that are not afraid of shade: hosta or geyhera. The climbing company will be clematis. Any ground cover plants are suitable for rock garden. In combination with stones on a hill in a rose garden, ferns or conifers look advantageous.

Landscape composition with a rose

Of course, the design of the rosary requires a lot of work and considerable time. But the result is worth it. You will be reminded of this every year by the colorful blooms and aroma of the flower garden, lovingly created by your hands.

How to create a rose garden: video

Rosary at their summer cottage: photo

Like a queen on a chessboard, the rose "rules the show" in the flower kingdom. Her noble beauty can revive green lawn or a blank wall of the fence, bring in landscape design garden plot bright accents. There is an opinion that the cultivation of roses is associated with many problems. In fact, the creation of a garden rose garden is a task that is quite feasible for everyone. And we invite you to talk about some of the nuances and wisdom today.

So, you have decided to create a rose garden with your own hands, but do not know how to approach it. difficult task. First of all, decide which area of ​​the garden you would like to set aside for your rose garden. There are a huge number of options for, but you need to pay attention to the fact that the place for laying out the flower garden is sunny, calm, with fertile soil. When forming a rose garden, swampy and damp areas of the garden, as well as areas in the shade of trees or buildings, should be avoided. As for the soil, light loam with an acidity level of 5-6 pH is considered the most successful soil for planting roses.

Weaving roses look spectacular on the facade and in the design of the entrance group country house

A flower bed of geometric roses will be favorably emphasized by a low border of evergreen shrubs

Abundantly blooming rose gardens in a summer cottage can be planted freely, emphasizing the naturalness of the garden, or geometrically, obeying a well-thought-out plan. You can plant roses in the form of a group on a lawn or near a pond, equip a hedge around the perimeter of the garden with roses, or place them in a flower bed. A rosary of undersized flowers will become great solution to create a border inside suburban area, but climbing varieties roses will favorably set off the architecture of the gazebo or pergola, hide the nondescript wall of the house or fence.

Even a single-planted standard rose in the form of a tree or a sprawling bush of a tea-hybrid rose can transform the landscape of a dacha. Tall park roses will perfectly fit into the design of the entrance group of the site or add solemnity to the long alley leading to the house. Roses will become a truly royal decoration of any corner of your garden plot, bring the missing "zest" to its appearance and fill your garden with a delicate fragrance.

Drawing up diagrams and a breakdown plan

When choosing a rosary planting scheme, pay attention to the color range of rose blooms and dilute its variegation with perennials or evergreen shrubs. Conifers or ferns will not only create a favorable background for the perception of the rose garden, but will also give this corner of the dacha a picturesque look when the roses have faded. You can get some ideas on how to arrange a rose garden in a garden plot in the form of a group planting of roses with your own hands from the diagrams below.

When planting roses in a group, it is necessary to consider which perennials and evergreens will emphasize their beauty.

On the initial stage creating a rose garden, it will be useful to draw a sketch of the placement of roses in a group

The rose garden looks original, created from a combination of white or cream roses with perennials, blooming lilac inflorescences

The planning diagram of the rose garden will help mark the area allocated for the flower garden

Stages of forming a rosary

If you are wondering how you can make a rose garden with your own hands, you should definitely pay close attention to preparing the soil for its improvement. The properties and composition of the soil plays a significant role in creating a rose garden, because a rose, as befits royalty, is quite capricious and capricious.

Soil preparation for planting roses consists in drainage and fertilization of the planting hole

The most unfavorable soil for planting roses is heavy clay, which will require drainage - removing excess moisture from the plant. Coarse-grained sand, expanded clay or gravel are most often used as drainage materials. Dry sandy soil also of little use for a rose garden - it must be fertilized with a mixture of clay and humus. In the case when the soil in the garden plot is fertile, a hole for planting roses is formed to such a depth that the root system of the bush fits. If the soil is not very good in its properties, then a hole is dug deeper and wider in diameter, and its bottom is sprinkled with drainage or fertilized.

Planting a rose seedling consists of the following steps: preparing the hole, pruning the seedling, backfilling the roots, tamping and watering the earth

After the place for the creation of the rose garden is chosen and the layout of its breakdown is thought out, it takes about 2-3 months to prepare the soil for planting roses. Considering that autumn is the best time for planting roses, approximately in the middle of summer, the plot of the garden chosen for the formation of a rose garden is dug up to a depth of about 60 cm and the topsoil is loosened. Then, the earth is fertilized with mineral and organic fertilizers. In a couple of months, the earth will settle, excess moisture will evaporate from it, it will be saturated useful substances and acquire the optimal composition for the development of the rose garden.

When choosing the location of the rose garden near the country house, make sure that this area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden is not shaded and is well lit by the sun.

A bright frame for a green lawn will be given by a border of undersized roses planted along its perimeter.

It's important to know! As organic fertilizers for roses are used: rotted manure, peat, humus, compost - at the rate of 10 kg of fertilizer per 1 square meter of land. Mixture mineral fertilizers suitable for roses and sufficient for 1 m3 of soil: 70 grams of superphosphate, 30 grams of ammonium nitrate, 20 grams of potassium chloride.

General landing rules

In order for the rose garden in the country to delight you with its flowering, it is necessary to adhere to some rules for planting it. Before boarding root system roses moisturize, cut broken or spoiled tips. The aerial part of the bush is shortened, leaving 1-3 of the most powerful shoots without leaves, shoots and color. In the designated places of the garden plot, holes are dug for planting, taking into account the length of the root system of roses.

Planting roses in ceramic pots will simplify the creation of a garden rose garden and give the terrace adjacent to the lawn an original flavor

In the process of planting, the rose seedling must be kept strictly upright and ensure that the tips of the roots do not bend up. To do this, the seedling is periodically shaken so that the planting mixture is evenly distributed, filling the space between the processes of the rhizome.

Soil-cover roses with miniature inflorescences, planted around an artificial reservoir, will create a voluminous and colorful frame for it.

A multi-colored rose garden will look good against the backdrop of a green grassy lawn.

It's important to know! The planting density of roses is selected based on the expected height, width of the bush and is: 25-50 cm for miniature, dwarf and floribunda roses; 60-100 cm for hybrid tea and undersized park roses; 1-1.5 m for standard and weakly growing climbing roses; 2-3 m for tall park, weeping standard and fast growing climbing roses.

After planting, the ground around the bush is carefully crushed with feet, then loosened a little, watered abundantly and spudded to a height of about 20 cm with peat or sawdust so that the above-ground shoots are completely covered. It is recommended to plant roses in autumn, from October until frost.

After wintering - in the spring, roses are pruned and sprinkled tree bark or wet peat. Subsequently, when the shoots reach a height of 5 cm, it is recommended to re-spud and mulch the soil with an 8-cm layer of peat or humus.

Preparing rose seedlings for planting

When preparing a rose for transplanting from a container, it is necessary to moisten the ground well so that the earthen ball does not crumble when removed. In order to plant a rose grown in a plastic pot, you need to cut it, take out a lump and, without destroying it, place it in a previously dug hole for planting. A pit for a rose from a container is dug approximately 10 cm wider and higher than its dimensions. The resulting gaps after moving the rose from the container to the hole are covered with a mixture garden soil with peat in such a way that the upper surface of the earthen coma is equal to the ground level on the site.

Before planting, the root system and shoots of a rose seedling must be cut

When roses for a rose garden are purchased in the form of seedlings, the root system of the flower may dry out and freeze. If the plant is frozen, it is necessary on the eve of planting to dig it into open field for a few days. If the roots of the rose are excessively dry, you need to place them in water 10 hours before planting. Immediately before planting, the roots of the rose are cut to 30 cm, removing spoiled shoots, and the aerial part is shortened, leaving a couple of strong shoots. The roots of the seedling can be treated with a clay-dung slurry to provide extra nourishment for the rose until it takes root.

Planting certain types of rose gardens

Some types of rosaries require specific preparation. seat, depending on the scheme for the formation of a flower garden and the types of roses used for its arrangement.

Rosary of park roses will give the central alley solemnity and elegant look

Planting standard roses

Standard roses are planted in a rose garden, like a tapeworm - an accent plant that differs from others in size and colors. A hole for planting a standard rose is dug according to the same principle as for a bushy one - based on the size of the rhizome. So that the standard tree does not break from gusts of wind, at a distance of 10 cm from it, on the leeward side, they add a wooden stake and tie a rose trunk to it. The stake is selected with a diameter of 2 to 4 cm and a height equal to the tree trunk to the base of the crown plus 50-70 cm. It is advisable to treat the underground part of the peg with an antiseptic to prevent wood decay and drive it to a depth of about 50 cm into a hole prepared for planting roses.

Rope for garter stem tree, you need to tar and, using an 8-shaped loop, fix it in three places on the trunk of a rose - near the ground, in the middle of the trunk and at the base of the crown. To protect the trunk of a tree from damage by a rope, it is wrapped with burlap patches in the areas where the loops are placed. An elastic mount, specially designed for such purposes, will greatly simplify the procedure for tying a rose.

Standard roses, which are small blooming trees, good both in a group and singly

A secluded seating area with a bench can be formed using a hedge of roses and clear trees

Planting a hedge of roses

Shrub or weaving roses look great planted as a hedge, formed either around the perimeter of the garden plot, or inside it - to divide into zones, for example, to create a border between the economic area and the recreation area. For arranging a single-row hedge inside the garden, undersized roses with a height of less than 1 meter are most often used - while the distance between the bushes should be 50-70 mm.

magnificent flowering bush climbing roses will brighten up the monotony of the fence of the suburban area

A multi-row hedge of roses usually consists of two or three tiers, with lower roses sitting in the foreground, then medium-sized ones (1-1.5 m), and the highest (more than 1.5 m) form the background background, adjacent to the main fence. It is necessary to ensure that the row of roses closest to the fence or to another building is laid 30-50 cm from the wall. The roots of roses during this planting must be distributed in such a way that they "leave" in the opposite direction from the building.

A rose garden, created under the walls of a country house, is able to decorate even the most nondescript building.

When planting roses in multi-row hedges, they adhere to a checkerboard pattern with a distance between bushes approximately equal to half their height. To plant a rose garden in a summer cottage in the form of a hedge, they do not dig separate holes for each bush, but a trench about 50 cm deep and a width depending on the number of rows in the hedge. It is advisable to loosen the bottom of the trench with a pitchfork and cover with a layer of planting mixture, consisting of peat and garden soil taken in equal parts. For planting a hedge, it is best to take 2-3-year-old rose seedlings with a well-developed root system.

Climbing roses, like spray roses, are one of the most popular forms in garden design. True, their purpose is completely different: if bush species are grown as tapeworms or bright accents, then climbing ones are most often used to decorate arbors, pergolas, arcade racks, or, like wild grapes, let them curl along the walls of buildings.

climbing roses (Rosa x hybrida hort) belong to the Rosaceae family. This species combines all climbing varieties of roses and was bred from 2 wild groups of roses: R. multiflora Thunb and R. wichuraiana Crep.

Flexible long shoots creep or arc up, small leaves are rigid, small flowers reach a diameter of 2.2–5 cm, petals are simple or double. The flowers are collected in large inflorescences. The aroma is faint or non-existent. The color of the petals can be white, pink or red. It blooms once, but for a long time (about 30-35 days). Flowers are located along the entire length of the shoots. Varieties of this species are winter hardy, and therefore a hard dry shelter is suitable for them.

Flowering in most varieties of climbing roses occurs once, and occurs at the beginning of summer, while only last year's lashes bloom. Therefore, it is so important for these plants to survive the winter well in order to preserve last year's lashes.

According to the description, climbing roses are very similar to spray roses. They have the same beautiful and rich in color leaves. The shoots are 1.5–5 m long, which allows planting quite tall objects.

How to plant a climbing rose (with video)

Usually a climbing rose is planted on sunny side at home so that she receives sunlight most of the day. Sunlight is important not only for current flowering, but also for the formation of new strong shoots responsible for flowering next year. However, it is advisable to plant them in places where they can be in the shade for a couple of hours a day, which will make the flowering period longer.

Each of the gardeners who love to plant beautiful flowers in their suburban area should know the following. Rosa does not like stagnant water, so groundwater should lie at a depth of no more than one and a half meters. A pit for planting a rose must be made in a special way and carefully ensure that it is 0.5 by 0.5 meters in size. It is important. Further, part of the excavated soil sinks to the bottom, and river sand and a bucket of humus are added to the pit with a slide. And it would be very good if the owner of the summer cottage took care of buying such a fertilizer as superphosphate.

In the hole, it must be put in a proportion of 3-4 tablespoons. Based on the fact that the elongated lashes of the plant will need to be correctly laid for the winter period, it is not necessary to plant plants close to each other.

The stems of the seedlings must be pruned by 30 centimeters, and then the rhizomes should be soaked in liquid clay. In addition, the rose is very fond of such a simple and well-known fertilizer to every novice gardener as cow dung. In a village where a shepherd takes the cows for a walk, there will be no problems with him. In addition, manure is sold by specialized companies that operate in this area.

Climbing roses are planted so that the root neck is covered with a layer of earth of about 10 cm. If several rose bushes are planted nearby, then the distance between them is made at least one meter. If a rose is planted for landscaping a fence or wall of a house, then the distance from the planting site to the support should be about 45 cm.

It is advisable to mulch the soil under the roses with sawdust, grass or straw. During flowering, it is important to remove wilted flowers in time so that the flowering period lasts longer.

This video shows how to plant a climbing rose:

The following describes how to grow climbing roses in the country and how to care for these flowers.

How to grow climbing roses in the country and how to properly care for them in the garden

The climbing rose is drought tolerant and should be watered no more than once a week.

You need to feed the rose 3-4 times during the growing season, either with mullein infusion, or complex fertilizer for roses.

Due to the large weight of the rose branches, it needs a fairly strong support, preferably wooden (it will prevent the plant from freezing in winter). In regions with cold winters, roses need shelter. With the onset of frost from minus 5 ° C, the shoots are removed from the supports, laid on the ground. It is better to put it on dry leaves or spruce branches, and cover with the same materials. A film is laid on top of such natural protection. In the spring, the shelter is removed and the rose is returned to the support.

When laying the branches of a rose on a support, it should be remembered that the shoots must be fixed not vertically, but horizontally, obliquely or in a spiral, then the forces of the plant will not be directed to the growth of shoots, but to the formation of flowers.

When caring for climbing roses in the open field, pruning is necessary action. This is a guarantee of a healthy appearance and abundant flowering. In the spring, it is necessary to prune frozen and weak branches, and after flowering, it is advisable to cut off those shoots that have faded, which will be an excellent incentive for the formation of new replacement shoots and rejuvenation of the bush.

This plant is especially beautiful in flowering form. But for the cultivation of climbing roses in the middle latitudes of Russia, a lot of effort needs to be made. Planting is carried out in early spring. To do this, the gardener on his site must choose a specific place. It should not be very cold, but not hot, in direct sunlight. If we talk about what kind of soil is best suited for such a rose, then it is best to bring loamy and fertile soil to the site.

Thus, in order to grow climbing roses as lush as possible, pleasing with their sophistication and beauty, it is necessary to carry out a series of manipulations:

• plant a seedling the right way;
• timely feed the seedling;
• shelter for the winter cold;
• open in time in the spring - with the onset of heat;
• cut properly.

When growing climbing roses in open ground, it is necessary to carry out preventive control of pests and plant diseases.

Planting and caring for climbing roses are shown in this video:

How to propagate climbing roses from cuttings

Cuttings are a method known to both the amateur and the professional. The question rightfully arises as to the reason for such popularity. The answer lies in the number of plants produced and the high chance of establishment. A shoot is selected 10 days after flowering, on which there should be about three buds ready for growth.

Before propagating climbing roses, cuttings must be prepared. This is done in advance. The width of the cuttings should vary from 0.5-0.7 cm, length - from 16 to 20 cm. From above, the cut should be straight, below - at an angle of 45 degrees. A beveled cut under the kidney at the bottom is necessary for roots to grow from the kidney. At the next stage, the cuttings must be kept in the growth solution "Kornevin" or "Heteroauxin" for 12 hours. Finally, the seedling must be planted in soil with a mixture of earth and sand.

It is also possible to propagate cuttings in water. After that, it is worth covering the future roses with a jar or, in the case of using water, cover with a film. This is done to maintain the desired degree of humidity around the plant.

When propagating climbing roses, it is important to observe the following conditions: constant air temperature from 22 to 24 degrees; sufficient lighting; do not remove the film or jar before rooting.

Roses are grafted onto wild roses in order to get earth-resistant seedlings faster and cheaper. And roses of own-rooted properties can be brought to such a result only after three years. This is less beneficial for producers due to the increase in the cost of seedlings due to an increase in their cost. Own-rooted roses are obtained by cutting a cutting that has three buds. And in order to plant a dogrose, use only one kidney. This is more beneficial for the manufacturer.

The next section of the article is devoted to how to choose climbing roses suitable for the climatic conditions of Russia.

How to choose climbing roses: winter hardiness of plants

It is worth considering that in the conditions of central Russia, the length of the shoots on the bushes is more modest, and flowering is not so long and plentiful. The main disadvantage of climbing roses in this zone is the need to shelter them for the winter, for which every year, in late autumn, the lashes have to be removed from their supports, bent down in the ground and covered.

Another secret when breeding climbing roses - correct selection varieties. Of the many varieties offered in firms and shopping malls, not everyone will grow well and bloom profusely in your area. Sometimes you have to try a lot of varieties to find the most suitable for a given place. However, for true flower lovers, these difficulties are not an obstacle. Often, in our relatively harsh zone, you can see garden compositions with abundantly blooming roses.

The culture of climbing roses in Europe has about 200 years. During this time, dozens of varieties and forms of climbing roses have been bred, however, European varieties have not become widespread in our country, like the culture of climbing roses itself, due to insufficient winter hardiness of European varieties in Russia.

Before today it was not possible to pick up a single reliable, wintering variety even for the south of the Chernozem region, where short-term winter frosts down to -28 ... -30 ° C are not uncommon.

In a frosty winter, the bushes of European varieties freeze all above-ground part to the level of snow, while an excellent decorative effect can only be given by powerful, developed bushes, in which the shoots of previous years of development overwintered well. None of these varieties has natural leaf fall in our conditions. The leaves remain green until frost, and then frost over. Unripe annual shoots die off during winter frosts, becoming "gates" for the penetration of fungal, viral infection and usually lead to the death of the entire bush.

Such roses can winter in Russia only under cover, for which the shoots must be annually removed from supports, tied up, cleared of foliage, cut out non-lignified shoots and covered with spruce branches, burlap, spunbond. Since the sheltering procedure is complex and time-consuming, covering varieties of roses have no prospects in mass gardening.

The search for winter-hardy types of climbing roses and the breeding of non-covering roses for the conditions of Russia is one of the urgent and interesting tasks.

Work on the development of winter-hardy non-covering roses for Russian gardens is currently being carried out by Ph.D. s.-x. sciences, head. department scientific research and innovative developments of the Rossoshanskaya Zonal Horticulture Experimental Station in Voronezh. A. I. Sychev.

Breeding varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses (with photo)

Taking into account that the genetic material for breeding varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses must be sought among poorly studied species roses or hybrids with frost-resistant species as one of the parents.

The attention of the researcher was attracted by roses Kordesa is a cultivating new group of roses, created in the middle of the last century by the German rose breeder W. Kordes.

The basis of the new group of roses was a spontaneous hybrid of the Vihurayana climbing rose and the wrinkled rose. (R. rugosa).

Hybrid named "Max Graf" ("Max Graf") refers to climbers, blooms profusely simple flowers, but does not bear fruit due to the genetic remoteness of the parents. On the bushes of this variety, which grew in the Kordes nursery, a bud mutation occurred, as a result of which the number of chromosomes doubled and two fruits were tied on a matted branch. One of the seedlings grown from the seeds of these fruits turned out to be a tetraploid and became the founder of a new group of roses. Thanks to the genes of the wrinkled rose, which tolerates frosts down to -40 ° C and more without shelter, Kordes roses are much more winter-hardy than the old varieties of climbing roses. However, the genes of the Vihurayana rose do not allow Kordes roses to winter in Russia without shelter.

This statement also applies to the most winter-hardy of the Cordes climbing roses - the Flammentants variety. (Flammentanz) - the best red climbing rose for the climate of Russia, grown in a covering culture. Bright red semi-double flowers of this variety are collected in small inflorescences. The first flowering of the variety at the beginning of summer is extremely abundant, and during the second wave of flowering, 40-50 flowers are formed at the ends of the shoots.

Rose "Flammentants" can be used as a genetic basis for breeding winter-hardy non-covering roses. To do this, it is necessary to increase the winter hardiness of her offspring by 6–7°C, expand the color palette and increase the broadness.

Due to the tetraploidy nature of Kordes roses, they easily cross with modern varieties of hybrid tea, floribunda and climbings. Hybrids with Flammentants have large double, semi-double and simple flowers, collected in small inflorescences of predominantly red, raspberry and pink color. Their flowering, as a rule, is single, but some hybrids have the ability to not abundantly re-bloom. In terms of winter hardiness, they are significantly superior to hybrid tea roses, but slightly inferior to Flammentants. One of best hybrids called "Nostalgia". This is a vigorous climbing rose with shoots up to 4-5 m long with large dark red double flowers.

Attempts to cross "Flammentanz" with winter-hardy park roses, for example, a variety of winter-hardy prickly roses (R. pimpinellifolia) - "Fryulingsgold", did not bring success. Most of the hybrids turned out to be of the bushy type, with light flowers with a "weak", thin texture of the petals and low winter hardiness. Pollination of "Flammentants" with rosehip pollen

Rosa Vihurayana (« R. wichuraiana”), originally from Korea, southern Japan, China often grows as a creeping plant. Climbing shoots of this species are covered with shiny evergreen small foliage, which it transfers to its varieties. The winter hardiness of this species and the varieties derived from it is even lower than that of the multi-flowered rose.

The most common variety of "Excelsa" (« Excelsa”) is damaged by frost at -18 ... - 20 ° C. However, despite the need for annual shelter, this rose is widely grown in central Russia as one of the most stable, unpretentious and abundantly flowering climbing varieties.

Climbing roses from the group of climbers are most often climbing clones of common low-hardy hybrid tea roses, floribunda roses, remontant roses and differ little from them in terms of winter hardiness. The shoots of these roses freeze at -15 ... -20 ° C.

In recent years, new winter-hardy roses of Canadian selection have been brought to our country. One of the climbing roses, "William Buffin" ( "William Buffin"), after three years of testing in Rossosh showed higher winter hardiness than Flammentants.

The search for winter-hardy species among wild-growing ramblers was crowned with the discovery of the Maksimovich rose, which grows in the north of China, in Korea, and is quite common in southern Primorye ( R. maximowiciana).

Rosa Maksimovicha is a shrub with climbing or creeping shoots 5–6 m long. The leaves are leathery, shiny, decorative, consist of 7–9 pairs of leaflets, the leaves are 2–4 cm long, reminiscent of the evergreen leaves of the Vihurayana rose. In nature, the rose forms thickets on stony and sandy soils along coastal slopes and in floodplains no further than 20–40 km from the sea coast. It is very important that the development of the Maksimovich rose completely fits into the growing season of the middle lane, natural leaf fall occurs in the fall, and the fruits fully ripen in September. Fully winter-hardy rose in Rossosh, in Moscow (GBS) and in the south of western Siberia.

The flowers of the Maksimovich rose are 2.5–5 cm in diameter, collected in corymbose-paniculate inflorescences of 5–7 pieces, the petals are creamy yellow. The shoots of the Maksimovich rose overwinter in Voronezh and in the Moscow region directly on supports, without shelter, in the spring they are not damaged, in the summer the bushes bloom profusely. In Moscow, the Maksimovich rose at the age of 10 reaches a height of 2.6 m, the diameter of the bush is up to 3 m.

These photos show varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses:

Rosa Maksimovicha sets fruits well when pollinated with pollen from climbing diploid varieties of small-flowered roses.

Among hundreds of seedlings from pollination with pollen of varieties "Thousendshon", "Ave Maria" (« Ave Maria”) and unnamed local roses, the breeder singled out specimens with decorative flowers and, more importantly, timely completion of the growing season.

The most interesting are seedlings from the Maksimovich rose family × Thauzendshon.

They are distinguished by strong climbing growth (up to 5 m in length), have double or semi-double flowers. different structure, forms of petals, coloring and timing of flowering. The size of the flowers is medium-sized, which corresponds to the size of flowers in a group of ramblers, however, the flowers are collected in racemes from 3-5 to 20-30 pieces. There are seedlings with fragrant flowers.

Look at the photo of the varieties of climbing roses, the description of which is given above:

How climbing roses of different groups bloom

According to the world classification among climbing roses, two groups are distinguished:

Ramblers (Ramblers) And climbers (Large flowered climbers).

The first group includes wild-growing species from the Synstylae section and garden forms closely related to them. As a rule, these are powerful, with a height of shoots up to 3–6 m, species blooming once in early summer, with small simple flowers in many-flowered inflorescences. The second group includes complex hybrids, products of long-term selection with large flowers and repeated (remontant) flowering.

Roses from the group of ramblers are the most winter-hardy and promising for introduction to Russia. An analysis of the pedigree of modern European climbing roses - ramblers showed that two wild species from China and Japan.

See how climbing roses of different groups bloom in these photos:

The first is a multi-flowered or polyanthus rose (R. multiflora). IN mild winters it winters well in Russia without shelter, but in frosts down to -30 ° C, the shoots freeze to the level of snow. In the old gardening manuals, the varieties of this rose are called among the most winter-hardy climbing roses for Russia. In order to obtain flowering varieties, the multi-flowered rose was crossed with non-hardy remontant, hybrid tea, tea roses, so the varieties have lower winter hardiness.

In our country, old varieties of multi-flowered roses are common, for example, Tauzenshon (« Tausendschon"). Varieties of the multi-flowered rose retain large stipules characteristic of the species, fringed along the edges.

Varieties of climbing roses: photos, names and descriptions

Among the most common varieties of climbing roses are the following:

"Aglaya" (Aglaia) has large flowers, collected in large inflorescences, petals are terry, straw-yellowish in color. Spreading bush blooms profusely.

"Alberic Barbier" (Alberic Barbier) has small buds yellow color. The name of this variety of climbing roses was given by the French breeders who brought out this form. The flowers are large, collected in small inflorescences, the petals are double, creamy yellow at the edges and yellow in the center. The aroma is fragrant. shiny leaves beautiful shape, dark color. Climbing bush blooms profusely from June.

"American pillar" (American Pillar) are distinguished by open large flowers, reaching a diameter of 7 cm, collected in large inflorescences and located on strong shoots. The petals are non-double, carmine-pink, the eye is white, the stamens are golden. Leathery, large, glossy leaves. When describing this variety of climbing roses, it is especially worth noting their height and power - strong bushes reach a height of 6 m, bloom profusely from May to June.

"Blaze" (Blaze) has large cupped flowers, collected in large inflorescences. Petals are semi-double, bright red. The aroma is weak. The leaves are leathery. A strong shrub with a spreading crown blooms profusely and repeatedly. The variety is propagated by cuttings, grafting and layering.

"Wartburg" (Wartburg) has small flowers collected in large inflorescences, double petals, crimson-pink. The aroma is fragrant. Vigorous shrub with smooth shoots, devoid of thorns, blooms profusely.

"Hayawata" (Hiawatha) is distinguished by small flowers, reaching a diameter of 3.5 cm, which are collected in inflorescences of 10–30 pieces. Petals are non-double, carmine red, white in the center. The leathery leaves are shiny. A strong bush reaches a height of 3 m, flowering occurs later than in other varieties of this species.

"Dorothy Perkins" (Dorothy Perkins) has small flowers up to 3 cm in diameter, collected in large inflorescences. The petals are densely double, bright pink with a salmon sheen. Large glossy, dark green leaves. Strong climbing shrub blooms profusely in June.

"Crimson Rambler" (Crimson Rambler) has flowers of medium size, collected in large pyramidal brushes. The petals are a bright crimson-red color, when they fade, they turn bluish. Leathery large leaves of a light green color. The bush is strong, climbing.

"Climbing Minnehaha" (Minnehaha) is distinguished by medium-sized flowers collected in inflorescences. Petals are terry, pink. The aroma is weak. A vigorous bush reaches a height of 3.5-4 m, blooms once in late spring - early summer, propagated by cuttings and layering.

Feilchenblau (Veilchenblau) has small flowers cupped shape. Petals are semi-double, bright purple. The aroma is fragrant.

Here are photos of varieties of climbing roses, the description of which is given above:

Climbing roses in garden design and photos of plants at the time of flowering

Vertical gardening has importance in garden design. And the point is not only in the decorative effect, but also in the ability to divide the site into zones, hide from curious neighbors or disguise an unsightly structure.

There are many plants that are used in vertical gardening, and not the least of them is the rose.

Climbing roses in garden design can be used very widely. For example, decorate a fence, a wall of a building or a gazebo. You can braid an arch, a pergola over a gate, a bench or a path, or decorate a retaining wall. Can be planted near special supports installed in flower beds, front gardens, on lawns.

Moreover, for each composition, varieties should be selected that are most suitable for each other in terms of texture, doubleness and color of flowers and other decorative features.

Climbing roses are first-class plants for vertical gardening, wall decoration, decoration public places and recreation areas. In China and Japan, these plants have been used in landscaping for many centuries.

See how climbing roses look in the garden in these photos:

For successful breeding of these plants, you need to know about one of their features: the more evenly the lash is illuminated, the more flower buds are formed along the entire length of the shoot. And although modern varieties bloom fairly evenly, we must not forget about this nuance. How to care for climbing roses in the garden to achieve optimal lighting? This can be done by placing the lashes horizontally or at least with a slight slope.

If you know about this property, then thanks to a competent garter and the formation of lashes, you can increase the number of flowers, which will significantly affect the overall decorative effect.

Varieties with flexible shoots such as Super Excelsa, Super Dorothy, should be used to decorate narrow arches and pergolas, pillars or obelisks.

When forming a whip, you can tie it to the arch with a snake or simply wrap it in a spiral around a pillar or obelisk. This simple technique will allow the rose to bloom more abundantly.

Large-flowered Flamentanz type roses, in which the shoots are more powerful, it is preferable to decorate wide decorative lattices: it is convenient to lay out the whips on them with a fan.

If the variety has a good shoot-forming ability, then pruning can also achieve uniform flowering. To do this, the shoots are cut at different heights, which stimulates their growth.

except usual options the use of climbing roses, there are also not quite standard ones. You can use a rose to decorate an old fruit tree. In this case, it is best to plant it on the south side, finding a place between tree roots and retreating 50 cm from the trunk. You can also dig in a root stop (for example, a piece of old linoleum or plastic) and a cut of a wide pipe or plastic bottle without bottom for spot watering and fertilizing roses. Next, the lashes need to be tied to the trunk in the intended direction.

Another interesting technique is the use of climbing roses as a groundcover. It will look especially advantageous on a slope. Shoots can simply be laid on the ground, or even better, slightly raised and fixed on low arcs. The river of flowers flowing down the slope will amaze the imagination of all your guests.

Varieties of climbing roses that grow well in width and have tough shoots, such as Rozarium Uetersen, suitable for solitary planting on the lawn. They can be given the required forum (shaping) by trimming, as is the case with scrubs.

As low plants, some vigorous varieties of English roses can also be formed. In order to properly care for climbing roses, as experienced flower growers advise, you need to maintain the length of the shoots, cut moderately and form lashes on a support. Wide screens or obelisks are suitable as a support.

For this role, varieties such as:

Crown Princess Margaretha

Gertrude Jekyll

A Shropshire Lad

The Pilgrim and others

As for companions for climbing roses, the best of them are clematis. When selecting clematis, it is necessary to achieve harmonious combinations, using the technique of contrast in shape or color. You also need to consider the flowering time of both species; it is clear that they should bloom at the same time. Finally, it is necessary to take into account the growth pattern of the selected varieties of both roses and clematis. Usually clematis develop faster, so it is preferable to plant a rose first, give it at least a year to root and grow, and only then plant clematis next to it.

A certain distance must be maintained between the climbing rose and clematis, at least 60 cm. Moreover, if the rose needs to be directed to a support, then it is enough to help the clematis only at the very beginning. And then this climber will do just fine on his own, using a rose as a support.

As you know, in the middle lane, both roses and clematis must be covered for the winter. In this regard, they often argue which clematis are preferable - the second or third pruning group (read more about this in the third chapter), which ones are more convenient to cover with roses. It seems to many that the varieties of the third group will fit much better: for the winter, the lashes can simply be cut off at a height of 20 cm, there is no need to unravel and remove anything from the rose. In fact, varieties of both groups may be suitable. The fact is that many clematis of the third group are very powerful, tall, with big amount shoots and not every climbing rose can withstand such a neighborhood. Sometimes it is worth choosing elegant and modest clematis of the second group. Yes, and covering them is not so difficult: just cut the lashes at the level of a meter, cut off the foliage and cover the clematis along with the rose.

The bottom of a climbing rose may become bare with age. To decorate lower part, you can plant roses of another group around, such as ground cover or floribunda, or companion plants that match in color.

In the climate of the middle lane, growing a climbing rose is not so easy. In order for her to appear in all her glory, she needs to provide favorable conditions wintering. When planning a flower garden, you must immediately foresee where you will put these, in general, rather big roses for the winter. To avoid disappointment, when choosing a climbing rose variety, pay attention to its winter hardiness and resistance to disease and precipitation. Read reviews on the Internet about it left by rose growers from your climate zone. Study the agrotechnical requirements, the most important of which is competent pruning. In addition, powerful climbing roses for lush flowering timely and balanced top dressing is necessary. Do not forget to tie up the whips in time. It is undesirable to use hard wire for this purpose, I use plastic clamps or twine made of natural material. In this case, you can not tie the whip to the support too tightly.

It is often recommended to plant climbing roses with a slight slope in the direction where the lashes are planned to be laid in the fall. It doesn't really matter; I did not notice a difference in crouching between those roses that I planted scientifically and those planted straight. If the variety has flexible shoots, it is easy to lay it in any planting. And in order to bend roses with hard shoots to the ground, you always need to make an effort.

When planting a rose near a fence or wall of the house, make sure that air circulates well between the plant and the wall. Also, remember that many materials get very hot on hot days, and this will be bad for colors. Therefore, roses must be mounted on a decorative lattice, which should be at least 10 cm from the wall. And the last. If you decide to decorate the wall of the house with a climbing rose, pay attention to where the water flows from the roof: it should not pour on the rose.