Construction of country houses from aerated concrete. The cost of a country house made of aerated concrete with plaster, slab monolithic foundation, reinforced concrete monolithic ceiling, metal roofing

For the construction of country houses country houses choose one of the best materials, and the first thing you think about is brick, wood or cinder block, this list can be confidently supplemented with cellular concrete. They have several varieties, each of which has its own specific properties, but what unites them is lightness, low price and of course high. However, a do-it-yourself cottage made of aerated concrete compares favorably with its characteristics not only from traditional materials, but also from lightweight concrete.

Why gas block

Many developers, having chosen high-quality cellular concrete as the main wall material, are confused and cannot decide between foam and aerated concrete. At first glance, this is an absolutely identical material, differing only in the method of manufacture, name and price, but this is not so.

If we compare foamed and aerated concrete in terms of strength characteristics, then after conducting simple laboratory tests, we can find that aerated concrete is more durable. This indicator of foam concrete directly depends on the quality of the foaming agent used for production. Many manufacturers, using cheap analogues of concentrates, reduce the cost of products, and this is reflected in the instability of the cellular structure in some parts of the product. What can not be said about aerated concrete, it is absolutely homogeneous with stable strength characteristics throughout the entire volume of the product.

The gas block is also more reliable in the masonry itself. The walls of it are practically not subject to shrinkage and cracking, but the water absorption index is the best for foamed products. Therefore, the waterproofing of the gas silicate structure must be given special attention.

The geometry of the building blocks is no less important for their quality characteristics. As has been proven more than once by experience, the dimensions of gas blocks are as close as possible to ideal ones, but foam concrete products cannot be distinguished by such advantages. Correctness depends on manufacturing technology, the implementation of which is not observed so often. This may affect the cost of masonry, plastering and adhesive composition.

Environmental friendliness, fire resistance and thermal conductivity are the characteristics in which both types of lightweight concrete are equally good. In monetary terms, the purchase of foam concrete is less, but given the above disadvantages, the cost of related materials can cover the cost Money on the blocks themselves. In the end, analyzing the estimates, it becomes obvious that aerated concrete, although more expensive, but due to its best quality, construction costs are several times less than for the construction of a foam concrete house.

Wall waterproofing

Having chosen a good material, now it remains to properly build warm and durable from it country house. As mentioned above, the key to a high-quality aerated concrete box is waterproofing. Therefore, when, you must immediately proceed to moisture protection.

It can be done in several ways. The first, and also obligatory, is a thorough waterproofing of the foundation, it is carried out in 2 stages:

1. Primer treatment in 3 layers.
2. Roll protection.

The second method is wall waterproofing. Cladding materials such as siding, brick or ventilated façade can be used. If you decide to plaster the walls, then first you need to treat them with a special waterproofing solution in several layers.

Useful video

Output

Even despite such a significant minus of gas blocks as increased moisture capacity, buildings from it are obtained a little better than foam concrete, but this, of course, subject to all standards during construction.

Material calculation

10:0,0,0,220;0,290,220,220;290,290,220,0;290,0,0,0|5:165,165,0,220;0,165,95,95;165,290,144,144|1134:214,144|1334:140,31;140,106|2255:0,124|2155:63,0;63,220;205,220|2422:290,47;290,90|1934:205,-20

RUB 816,116.0

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Calculation of the cost of work

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Aerated concrete wall with plastered facade

Masonry from gas silicate blocks

Compared to others masonry blocks autoclave gas silicate blocks have a significant and uniform microporosity throughout the block, which explains their excellent thermal insulation properties, as well as the ability to "breathe".

In terms of heat-insulating ability, fire protection, sound insulation, aerated concrete block is many times superior to ceramic brick material.

Despite the fact that aerated concrete blocks are presented as an extremely convenient and heat-efficient building material, their use is justified only if you strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions and purchase a well-known product, for example, the level of Ytong, Wehrhahn, Hebel, Hess, Beston, preferably with the involvement professionals.

Now some plants sell high-quality blocks of autoclaved aerated concrete (Ytong, Hess, Wehrhahn, Beston, Hebel) with a slight variation in size (in the range of ± 1 mm), which can actually be assembled on a specially developed adhesive .

Such masonry is characterized by minimal heat loss, because. there are no cold zones formed by masonry gaps from sand-cement mortar, and, importantly, the cost of installing aerated concrete blocks is reduced by about a third.

Mounting adhesive for aerated concrete costs approximately twice as much as a classic cement-sand mortar, at 5-6 times less consumption.

Exterior wall decoration made of aerated concrete blocks should facilitate the movement of water vapor from the house to the street. For this reason, it is unacceptable to cover cellular concrete walls with polystyrene, paint with vapor-proof agents, and plaster with sand-cement plaster.

According to the norms of thermal protection of buildings, for an average climate zone a single-layer external wall made of gas silicate buildings with a cross section of 40 cm is sufficient.

When installing aerated concrete block walls, it is important to link big number limiting factors and production subtleties, otherwise, instead of reducing the cost of materials, it is realistic to get raw, too uncomfortable, and even just emergency walls.

• For the installation of reinforcement, along the upper plane of the laid gas silicate blocks are cut circular saw grooves with a thickness and depth of 3 * 3 cm, which, during the installation of reinforcement, are rubbed with an adhesive solution for aerated concrete.
• Substandard or excessively protruding gas silicate block you need to grind it with a grinder to the required size at the place of its installation.
• Gas silicate blocks are quite realistic to ditch, plan, cut with a hand saw, drill, mill right on the construction site.
• The installation of the first row of gas silicate blocks should be taken quite responsibly, comparing the horizon and vertical of the blocks in terms of the level during operation.
• By technical description, support zones of lintels and zones under window openings, as well as every four to five rows of blocks, must be reinforced with steel bars.
• By top row aerated concrete blocks, in a shield formwork form, reinforced concrete screed, layer up to 20 cm. On the outside concrete belt heat shielded with 5 cm extruded foam insert.

Plaster lining of gas silicate blocks

When plastering the facade surface of the blocks, it is required to buy special plasters recommended for aerated concrete, because for aerated concrete walls the most important factor is the vapor conductivity of the facade layer. In another case, the walls will begin to get wet quickly, which will initiate a decrease in heat-shielding properties and sprinkling of the plaster and finishing material. In addition to high vapor permeability, gas silicate plasters must have high frost resistance, adhesion, weather resistance, as well as reduced water absorption, shrinkage, and cracking. Of the available plaster compositions suitable for aerated concrete blocks, it is worth listing Sibit, Atlas KB-TYNK, CT 24 Ceresit, Glims Ts40 Velur, Atlas Silkat, Mask + MSH).

Due to the fact that the gas silicate wall must be protected from atmospheric moisture, plaster compositions must have water-repellent qualities, and the roof of the house must be with decent overhangs. It is important to set the thickness of the plaster coating from the outside to 2 times less than from the inside, with the opposite proportion of the steam conductivity value, so that the entry of wet vapors into the blocks becomes less than the passage of vapors to the street.

Some aspects of plastering an aerated concrete wall:

• For external plastering, well-built aerated concrete block masonry, a layer thickness of 5 ÷ 10 mm is quite sufficient. With a thicker layer, it is desirable to use a mesh fabric.
• First of all, intra-house operations are carried out, interconnected with moisture processes: plastering, painting, puttying, pouring floors, pasting, concrete screed, and only then, after drying, they begin to plaster the outside.
• Plastering is allowed to be done only after 6 months, after the completion of aerated concrete block walls, and at positive temperatures.
• painting finished plaster it is worth doing only with the use of water-based dyes, characterized by the required hydrophobic and water-protective characteristics.

Foundation made of reinforced concrete slab and monolithic tape

The slab foundation is arranged along the boundaries of the structure in the form of a single concrete slab and is implemented in a non-buried or buried version.

When deepening, the concrete slab acts as a base on which the vertical parts of the foundation are built, which define the basement. With the upper location of groundwater, it is advisable to make the perimeter walls of the foundation in the form of a continuous reinforced concrete tape, using waterproof coatings: coating, gluing, impregnation.

non-deep slab foundation used in individual construction, with unstable soils, as well as on wetlands. Such a foundation is appropriate for the construction of outbuildings that do not contain a high above-ground part of the foundation and cellar.

In practice, when the surface of a monolithic slab is conceived as the base for the floor of the first floor, and therefore the foundation slab is above the depth of freezing of the earth, the task of insulating the earth under the foundation slab and under the blind area appears.

It is considered expedient to use a layer of extruded polystyrene foam, for example, Teplex, Polyspen, Technoplex, Styrofoam, Ursa XPS, Penoplex, Primaplex, Styrodur, because. other heat-shielding agents: PSB foam plastic, expanded clay, mineral wool - in short term absorb water, which leads to a sharp drop in their thermal resistance in wet soil.

An exemplary method for constructing a solid-slab foundation with side walls in the form of an inextricable reinforced concrete tape:

• First of all, a layer of soil is selected at the mark specified by the project.
• Gravel is poured onto an open base, with a particle size of 20 ... 40, with a layer of 10-20 cm, and carefully compacted.
• A cement-sand layer is arranged, up to 5 cm high.
• A moisture-proof film is laid out with a removal along the border of 180-200 cm, for lateral moisture insulation of the foundation walls.
• To protect the moisture-proof membrane from possible ruptures during reinforcement, another layer of sand-cement mortar, 5 cm thick, is laid on top of the moisture insulation, along the contour of which formwork boards are installed along the height of the slab part of the foundation.
• The cast foundation slab is reinforced with two layers of steel bars with a section of d14 type A300 with cells of 20x20 cm.
• For a solid foundation, only high-strength concrete is used, grades not lower than M300, supplied by a mixer.
• With an indent of 200-250 mm from the contour of the foundation slab, the formwork is mounted along the height of the side walls in the form of an inextricable reinforced concrete perimeter,
• A reinforcing structure assembled from reinforcement bars of A300-A400 size 10-12 mm is laid in the finished formwork form, and a concrete mass is produced.
• The period of curing concrete (when it is already allowed to remove the formwork) is approximately 28 days, at a temperature of at least + 15 ± 5 degrees C.

Ceiling from a monolithic reinforced concrete panel

Due to the fact that solid reinforced concrete floors have a rather significant weight, it is permissible to build them exclusively in brick-block houses with powerful prefabricated block, slab and strip foundations.

In the practice of private housing construction, the use of a monolithic reinforced concrete inter-level ceiling is advisable, mainly in situations where it is impossible to use factory panels, for example, these are: non-standard architectural compositions or territories that are difficult to access for trucks.

The technological process of making a concrete monolithic slab includes the following critical stages: the construction of a casting mold, the binding of the reinforcing structure and concreting. Performers will be required to strictly comply with design decisions in terms of the brand of concrete mortar and reinforcement parameters, as well as the use of engineering equipment and the presence of serious skills.

The working parameters of the concrete floor are set by the design decision, however, as a rule, the height of the floor is not lower than 1/30 of the distance between the supports.

Let's list the most important rules when constructing a reinforced concrete floor (span maximum 600 cm, panel height - 20 cm):

• It should be borne in mind that the formwork design must hold the mass of the poured concrete solution, approximately 0.5 tons per square meter, then painted plywood sheets with a thickness of about 1.8 ÷ 2.2 cm, reinforced with steel pipe racks, can be used for the casting mold, d 45 ... 50 mm, or wooden poles, with a section of at least 100x100 mm.
• With the help of steel wire rod brand Vr-1.2 F2, with an indent from the walls of the casting mold - at least 40 mm, from reinforcing bars, brand A400, A500 Ø12÷14mm, two mesh tiers are knitted, lower and upper. With the help of tied standing dividers made of reinforcement with bent end parts, the gratings are shifted from each other in height, within the height of the structure.
• In order to create boundary layers of concrete on both sides, the reinforcement structure must be 50-60 mm thicker than the formwork structure, i.e. as if to be sunk into the body of a concrete panel. for this reason, the underlying lattice tier is lowered onto plastic inserts 25 ... 30 mm thick, and the overlying lattice, during pouring, is covered with concrete mortar of the same height.
• It is important to note that the concrete solution for the slab must be prepared only on heavy aggregates and have a strength class of M250 ÷ M400, so the best choice is to purchase factory concrete.
• It is necessary to finish laying the concrete in one step, until the concrete mortar begins to harden.
• For high-quality maturation of the manufactured monolithic floor, it is important to provide a favorable heat and humidity environment. It is allowed to remove the formwork structure only after 30 calendar days.

metal roof

Monterrey tiled pattern with parameters (wave pitch - 0.35 m, wave height - 2.3 cm), at the moment, is the most popular and is sold by many industries: Interprofile, Poimukate, Grand Line, Finish Profiles, Pelti ja Rauta, Metal Profile.

The roofing material is mounted on load-bearing frame, made up of a bar crate and rafters.

For individual buildings, a scheme of 2.3 spans with inclined truss elements and middle supports.

Gap between rafters usually exhibited about 600-900 mm with a cross section of rafters 50x150-100x150 mm; the heels of the rafters are lowered onto a fixing beam measuring 100x100-150x150 mm.

In order to quickly remove wet steam penetrating from the interior and protect sheets of m / tiles from subsequent corrosion, the total cross section of the ventilation gaps (intake and exhaust) is determined in a ratio of 1:100 to the size of the roof.

Typical rules for fastening metal tile profiles:

• For future thermal insulation of the under-roof space, it makes sense to attach a super-diffusion membrane (TechnoNIKOL, Yutavek 115.135, Stroizol SD130, Izospan, Tyvek) along the rafters, in front of the sheathing layer. It is impossible to use, for waterproofing, "non-breathing" films based on roofing material.
• By rafters, on the laid moisture-proof material, bars of 3.0x5.0 cm are installed, and to them a sheathing flooring of boards 100x30 mm, with an interval of 350 mm (for metal tiles Joker, Monterrey). At the same time, the distance between the lower end of the first crate board and the center point of the next one should be 300 mm, and the first crate board is made thicker by 18 mm.
• In the areas of the subsequent fastening of the snow-retaining structure, when assembling the crate preparation, it is necessary to lay additional bars under the top of the wave.
• Installation of holders of the groove system is carried out on the cornice profile or truss beams, up to the flooring of m / tiles.
• Sheets of metal tiles are attached to the deflection of the profile, in areas of contact with the crate preparation.
• To the starting sheathing bar, which has the largest thickness, strips of metal tiles are fixed with self-tapping screws on top of the profile step.
• The extreme left and right of the slope, the sheets are fixed along the borders of the roof more often, i.e. on all battens.
• When installing metal tile sheets, the first sheet is aligned along the cross section and the eaves of the roof and hung on one self-tapping screw to the last crate, in the same way they deal with two or three sheets adjacent in a row, connecting them together and trimming along the cornice line, and only then finally screwed, using about 6 ... 8 pieces of special self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets per m² of roof surface.
• The installation of sheets of metal tiles is carried out from bottom to top, from right to left (or left to right), with each subsequent sheet overlapping one wave and the capillary channel of the previous one.

The construction of a cottage from aerated concrete blocks is very fast, and by the way, relatively inexpensive.

So the price of a house up to 100 turnkey squares will be about 2,000,000 rubles. But since even an inexperienced novice builder can handle the laying of aerated concrete blocks, you can save a lot on this, “biting off” almost half the cost finished house, and already, if there is no experience or desire to connect a brigade of covens only at the stage of communications, etc.

Aerated concrete blocks, unlike their cinder-block counterparts, have a clear geometry, so building a house out of them is a pleasure. No fasteners needed special devices too - they are connected on a special glue. It is enough to follow the instructions and have the most minimal knowledge in the field of construction and you will succeed.

To begin with, a few words about the "aerated concrete" material itself and its characteristics, as well as the obvious pros and cons.

Aerated concrete is one of the varieties and types cellular concrete, in which spherical air pores with a diameter of 1-3 mm are evenly distributed.

Aerated concrete preparation technology

For its manufacture, lime, water, cement and quartz sand are used. All this is thoroughly mixed for several minutes (usually five).

At the next stage, a little aqueous suspension of aluminum powder is added to this solution, which immediately reacts with lime, forming hydrogen, which in turn creates pores in the mass of the solution, occupying 84-85 percent of the total volume of this building material. It is these bubbles-pores that give aerated concrete and blocks from it its wonderful, and distinguish it from a number of other masonry building materials thermal insulation qualities.

Several scientists had a hand in creating the "recipe" for aerated concrete. First, the Czech inventor Hoffman, wanting to give concrete a porous structure, added various acids and salts to a solution of gypsum and cement.

As a result chemical reaction gas was released, making the concrete porous. The inventor patented the resulting technology back in 1889.

But the builders were in no hurry to apply the resulting patented product in practice. And only 25 years later, the Americans Aulsworth and Dyer picked up the idea, using powdered aluminum and zinc as a blowing agent.

As a result of their chemical reaction with lime, hydrogen was obtained, which, in turn, due to the formation of bubbles, made the concrete solution porous.

Nevertheless, an architect from Sweden by the name of Ericsson is considered the inventor of aerated concrete.

It caused the formation of bubbles in concrete using aluminum powder when it reacted with cement, slaked lime mortar and other components of mortars.

The industrial production of aerated concrete was launched in 1929 - that is, exactly after forty years of work on this technology, it happened in the city of Ixhult in Sweden.

Do-it-yourself construction of a country house - stages and a step-by-step description for the photo

1. In this case, they preferred column-strip foundation on bored piles with monolithic reinforced concrete slab. Usually it is arranged in places where the upper layers of the soil are weak.

Take off upper layer soil. According to the markup, recesses are made in the ground to a depth of 2 m and piles are poured with a section of 175 × 175 mm with reinforcement. The number of piles is calculated based on the characteristics of the soil. Rebar 014 mm from the frame is released 700 mm above the level of the piles in order to connect it with the reinforcement cage of the slab. Build formwork from edged board for filling tape 400×400 mm.

2. A reinforcement frame is installed along the entire length of the tape and concrete grade B25 is poured. When the tape is ready, the inner formwork is removed, the tape is insulated from the inside, and over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building, a substrate of compacted sand is made to a height of 100 mm, on which a layer of sand-gravel mixture 240 mm thick is laid, and all this is covered with a layer of waterproofing material. The reinforcement frame is installed, tying it to the reinforcement of the piles, and concrete grade B25 is poured in one go to get monolithic slab 160 mm thick. When the foundation is ready, start laying the walls.

3. First, prepare the base for laying the first row of blocks, arranging horizontal waterproofing. It should be slightly wider than the wall.

Can be used different types waterproofing that is at hand: of course, roofing material is the cheapest, but other rolled material can also be used in construction.

Waterproofing will be done correctly if the strips overlap with a "margin" of 10-12 centimeters.

To level the surface, a conventional 1 to 3 cement mortar is applied to the waterproofing layer with a trowel or comb. In winter, for laying the first row of blocks, a leveling layer is used masonry mortar from antifreeze additives. And already the first row of blocks is installed on it, the accuracy of the laying of which is controlled using a level.

Blocks must be laid joint to joint, not allowing even the slightest cracks and empty spaces (needle all thermal insulation characteristics aerated concrete), and fasten to each other with aerated concrete glue (it should be of the consistency of thick sour cream), which sets quickly, so there should be no mistake. Align the masonry horizontally in case of inaccuracy with a rubber mallet. If this is not done in time, then the entire wall will have to be destroyed. Make the choice of glue for aerated concrete either according to the instructions of the block manufacturer (usually they recommend a certain brand of aerated concrete glue for their products) or take a small piece of the block and consult the seller in the hardware store - despite the rather wide choice, the sales assistant immediately advised me for a specific block glue brand - I will not advertise it.

4. The next row of masonry is laid from the corner, shifting it relative to the bottom row, as well as ordinary cinder blocks, providing dressing. Adhesive solution applied to the vertical horizontal surface neighboring, already laid, foam blocks with a notched trowel.

The thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 3 mm. Surplus must be removed with a trowel. The evenness of the rows is also controlled with the help of special rails. The blocks are unpacked as needed, since with all the advantages of the material there is also a small minus in it - aerated concrete absorbs moisture, so it is better not to keep it in the rain, but finished house it is necessary to immediately "dress" in the facing material.

Not worth finishing country house from aerated concrete, use foamed plastics, paint with air-tight paint, use foam glass.

When working on plastering cottages use specialized plaster mixes for aerated concrete: since this material is capable of passing vapors, the plaster must have the same properties. Plastering with polymer solutions will lead to the fact that the lining will begin to crumble over time.

Total: The "box" of the building was built in 2 months, more precisely in 64 days.

Preparing for interior decoration at home with laying all engineering communications takes 3-4 months, and the construction of what is called "turnkey" is done in 4-6 months!

Autoclaved aerated concrete - its pros and cons as a material for building a country house box.

Reliability: not capable of burning (the degree of resistance to an open flame is at least 3 hours), neutral to water - does not react with it. Insects, mice and rats are not scary. The service life even with intensive use of the house is more than 100 years, at least almost all manufacturers of aerated concrete blocks say so.

Ease of construction and installation when working with aerated concrete: there are no fasteners in the construction technology, etc., since blocks with a thickness of 300-375 mm are used, laid in one layer, so it is simply impossible to confuse something.

Ease of processing: sawn, drilled without difficulty.

The speed of work laying aerated concrete blocks with your own hands, and consequently the construction of a dacha: after all, only one block of autoclaved aerated concrete is comparable to 17 conventional bricks in terms of volume and size.

Economy: thermal insulation properties aerated concrete will allow you to save significantly on heating your summer house in winter, you can simply maintain not very high temperature in winter period when the cottage is not in use.

Low coefficient of thermal conductivity: after all, porous gas blocks with a density of 400 - 600 kg / m3 are both construction and.

Quality: high quality soundproof properties, is not subject to destruction and shrinkage, consists exclusively of natural components, therefore, in the event of a fire, there is no danger of toxic fumes that arise during the combustion of synthetic insulating materials.

Photo of the construction of the box of the future country house

Do-it-yourself aerated concrete cottage - photo

Note: from which blocks to lay walls

• For laying external walls, blocks from 375 to 400 millimeters are needed
• For laying internal 250 millimeters and above
• For partitions and decorative structures - 100.

Yilong 12"x18 handmade oriental home decoration carpets luxury silk ...

Building a house from aerated concrete is not exactly an easy undertaking, but compared to brick or the same log house, much less effort will have to be applied. We will build a simple cottage on a strip foundation.

If you wish, you can change the characteristics of the building at your discretion - you just need to master the procedure for laying out the walls, all other activities are carried out as standard for houses made of any materials.

1. Band-saw.
2. Drill.
3. Hand saw.
4. Manual wall chaser.
5. Mixer.
6. Electromill.
7. Scraper bucket.
8. Glue cartons.
9. Toothed trowel.
10. Rubber mallet.
11. Grinding grater (board).

We make the foundation

We mark the site

We remove everything that interferes with the site, clear it and proceed to marking. For this we use reinforcing bars and a rope.

We determine the axis of the future structure. We take a plumb line and outline the first corner of the foundation. Perpendicular to it, we pull the rope to the second and third corners of the building.

Mark the 4th corner with a square. We measure the diagonals. If the length is the same, everything is fine, the corners are the same, you can hammer in the rods and pull the rope.

Similarly, we carry out internal marking of the base, departing from the outer order of 400 mm ( optimal value width for the strip foundation).

We dig trenches around the perimeter of the house and under the future internal walls.

We prepare trenches

Find the lowest point on the site. From here we count the depth of the pit. Small house can be built on a 40 cm tape. For the rest, be guided by the design features and the site as a whole (freezing depth, groundwater level).

swarm trench

Important! The walls of the pit should be vertical, and the bottom should be even. We check this with a plumb line and level.

We lay a pillow of sand on the bottom of the pit and carefully tamp it down. Such a pillow will contribute to an even distribution of the load on the base in the off-season. The recommended thickness is from 15 cm.

We pour gravel on the sand and lay the roofing material.

We install the formwork

We collect it from boards, plywood and others similar materials. We fasten the formwork elements with nails or screws.

Important! We make the formwork in such a way that it rises above the ground level by at least 300 mm.

Along the inner perimeter of the formwork, we stretch the fishing line at the level of the upper edge of the future fill.

At the same stage, we think over the arrangement of openings for the input of water supply and sewerage. To do this, we lay empty pipes in the right places and fill them with sand.

We lay reinforcement

We take rods with a diameter of 12-14 m. We tie them into a net using a flexible steel wire. Grid cells can have different sizes. The heavier the house, the smaller the side of the square should be. Most often, the power of the grid with cells of 20x20 cm is sufficient.

We make a grid according to the size of the trench. Important! We leave 5 cm indents between the laid reinforcing layer, the walls and the top of the trench, so that in the future all the reinforcement is guaranteed to be filled with concrete.

Pouring concrete

We multiply the width of the foundation by its length and height and determine the required volume of concrete. Cooking or ordering the mixture. For cooking, we use a standard recipe:

• cement - 1 part;
• gravel - 5 parts;
• sand - 3 parts;
• water - to the desired consistency.

We pour the concrete solution in uniform layers of about 200 mm, we are not in a hurry. We tamp each layer of filling with a wooden tamper. We pour concrete to the level of the previously stretched rope in the formwork space.

We level the surface of the pour with a trowel and pierce the concrete with reinforcement in several places. Outside, carefully tap the formwork with a wooden mallet.

We give the foundation a month to set strength. During this time, we cover the structure with polyethylene to protect it from precipitation, and in hot weather flush with water to prevent cracking.

We build walls

For construction in this example, we use blocks with a tongue-and-groove structure. They are simply more comfortable to wear by hand. You can build from any other gas blocks - the order of work does not change.

Pre-cleaning upper part dry foundation from existing dirt and dust, and then cover it with a layer of roofing material.

For luggage of the first row, we use a cement-sand mortar. It dries longer than special glue, and we will have the opportunity to adjust the evenness of the laying of the row. Minimum Thickness layer - 10 mm. There are no maximum restrictions. This will allow you to equalize the differences in height without much effort.

We find the highest angle - we will build from it. We take a fishing line and outline the wall of the house. We lay the first gas block. Then we set a block for each remaining corner and pull the rope between the building elements.

Be sure to check the evenness of the laying of each block. We lay out the first row of blocks around the perimeter of the house and in the places of construction of internal walls.

Important! Remember the doorways. We skip them, of course.

We take polishing and carefully grind the surface of the starting row. Further, we will do this with each stacked row. Thanks to this processing, we will be able to apply the glue as evenly as possible.

We put the second, and after it the third rows. We use special glue for laying gas blocks. We work, as on the first row, starting from the corners. We bind the rows, shifting by half the block - like brickwork. Minimum permissible value such a shift when laying aerated concrete - 80 mm.

To apply glue, we use buckets with cloves. We set the blocks as close to each other as possible, as far as the fingers allow, and move them back to back. We check the evenness of the masonry with a level. If necessary, align the blocks with a rubber mallet. We work quickly and harmoniously, because the glue dries very quickly and it will be almost impossible to move the gas block.

Useful advice! If, when laying the opening, it was not possible to get into the length of the whole gas block, we saw off the excess with a special saw or a simple hacksaw for wood.

Armopoyas interfloor. A photo

We equip windows and window sills

In this example, the window sills have a height of 4 rows of masonry. We reinforce window openings after laying out the 3rd row. A shredder will help us with this.

In the place of arranging the window opening, strobe 2 parallel lines. In length, they should extend beyond the boundaries of the window by 300 mm from each side.

We put reinforcement bars in the strobes and fix them cement-sand mortar. Ready! The wall for installing the window is reinforced.

Important! It is better not to lay openings for installing windows. Of course, in the future they can be cut out, but this is a waste of time and effort.

Wall laying. In the photo, simultaneously with the laying of the walls, decorative cladding brick

Making jumpers

Gradually we approached the jumpers. These structures are needed to strengthen the section of the wall above the door and window openings. Without jumpers, the structure can simply collapse.

Then the "non-removable formwork" of three rows of blocks:
1. Outside block 150 thick;
2. in the center of the block 150 thick sawn lengthwise in half;
3. From inside the block 100 mm thick.

We cut “squares” out of it, we tie reinforcing bars to them

You can either use ready-made U-shaped blocks (we glue them to the required length, install them, put reinforcement and fill them with cement mortar) or make the formwork on our own.

For the manufacture of formwork, it is most convenient to use gas blocks 10 cm wide. Blocks are fastened with glue. If it is not possible to buy 10-centimeter blocks, we simply cut an ordinary gas block into 3 identical pieces.

We glue the blocks to the required length, make 3 longitudinal ditches with a wall chaser, put reinforcing bars in them, fill cement mortar and give it a day to dry.

Jumpers are installed with the armature side down. We fill the gaps with gas blocks, if necessary, pre-cut to the desired size.

We make an armored belt

After arranging a row with window lintels, we proceed to pouring the armored belt, also known as the seismic belt. The structure is made of reinforced concrete and ensures the integrity of the aerated concrete building.

We take 10-centimeter blocks and form formwork from them along the perimeter of the walls. We fill the ditch with reinforcement and pour cement mortar.

We embed metal studs into the armo-belt for attaching the Mauerlat. We can make them from reinforcement. Even more convenient option- threaded studs. It is easier to attach a Mauerlat to them.

On this box at home is ready.

Mauerlat has already been installed. It's time to install the rafters. At this stage, everything is individual - focus on the features of the selected roof structure.

Several options are available:

Regardless of the chosen roof design, it must be equipped with insulating layers: hydro, heat and vapor barrier. In some cases (for example, when a residential attic is being built), a layer of soundproofing material is mounted.

We fix over the rafters waterproofing material. The easiest way to do this is with wooden slats. At the same time, the slats will play the role of a counter-lattice, to which the laths of the batten for roofing material will later be fixed.

Under the waterproofing, in the space between the laths of the crate, we lay the insulation. The most commonly used mineral wool. If you wish, you can choose another material (polystyrene foam, polystyrene, etc.).

We cover the thermal insulation with a layer vapor barrier film. We attach it to the rafters with wooden slats.

At the end, we put the finishing roofing. At this point, be guided by the available budget and personal preferences. Most popular materials:

• slate;
• bituminous tiles;
• corrugated board;
• metal tile;
• ceramic tiles.

Any roofing material install starting from the bottom. As a result, the sheets will be fixed so that sedimentary moisture can drain without penetrating under the roofing.

On this box of gas blocks with a roof is ready. Next, you are expected to work on the installation of engineering communications and finishing, but this is already a topic for a separate guide.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house

The Dachny Sezon company builds turnkey gas silicate houses according to ready-made and individual projects. These are warm and reliable cottages, with good soundproofing. Made of highly porous material, they are able to accumulate heat and moisture, maintaining a comfortable microclimate in the premises.

The gas silicate block is a molded cellular concrete, in the manufacture of which, in addition to water and sand, are used quicklime and aluminum powder. The production technology does not imply the use of cement, or it is added in a minimal amount. As a result of the chemical reaction of alkali with a gas-forming additive, active foaming occurs, which provides a porous structure after hardening. The blocks have an ideal geometry, which simplifies the laying. Unlike foam concrete, gas silicate pores are not isolated. The material has high strength and vapor permeability, absorbs moisture. Therefore, houses made of gas silicate outside and inside must be treated with plasters that reduce moisture absorption. Laying is carried out using special adhesive mixtures.

Choose your project

For more than 15 years, Dachny Sezon has been specializing in low-rise suburban construction in Moscow and the Moscow region. We offer finished projects houses from gas silicate blocks. The catalog contains floor plans and turnkey prices for all available configurations, as well as photos of already built objects. We can order cheap individual project, designed according to the personal wishes of the customer.

Advantages of building houses from gas silicate blocks in the company "Dachny Sezon":

• over 2500 completed projects,
• internal redevelopment- IS FREE,
• staged payment - 1% - 14% - 20% - 20% - 20% - 20% - 5%,
• technical Supervision,
• 940 projects of houses with an area of ​​60-500 m2,
• a guarantee for all types of works - 7 years.

We carry out the whole range of design and construction works- from the preparation of documentation to the commissioning of the facility. For each project, you can additionally order the filing of the roof with spotlights, installation interior doors and drainage systems, laying of intra-house engineering networks, interior and exterior finishes.