Floor installation on a concrete slab: installation, materials, tools, instructions. Do-it-yourself concrete floor screed: a detailed process of how to fill the floors with a concrete screed Floor construction on floor slabs

From the author: I greet you, dear reader! Sooner or later, we all face repairs in the hope of making our home the most comfortable and beautiful, because the house is our fortress. This is the place where we can be alone with ourselves, and where we feel protected. As soon as we start thinking about repairs, we begin to look at the prices of materials and services, and literally immediately we understand that we can’t save much on the material, but we can refuse the services of builders by doing repairs ourselves. One of the upcoming operations is the laying of floors, and it is vital for you to know how the floor is laid on a concrete slab, otherwise problems with repairs will definitely not be avoided.

Types of floors and their designs

To begin with, let's figure out which ones are generally, since not all of them are suitable for installation in an apartment or house. Some of them may not meet your needs or hurt your budget. So, the following types of floor technologies are distinguished:

• on concrete slabs;
• on the ground;
• wooden on concrete slabs;
• concrete with a wooden base;
• concrete for industrial buildings;
• from fiber-reinforced concrete;
• warm.

Now you will understand which one is needed for what, how it is made, and what are its advantages and disadvantages.

Floors on concrete floors

This type of flooring is the most common, since most urban residents live in apartments, and all floors of apartment buildings are made exclusively using reinforced concrete slabs. Any floor can be made on them, whether it is wooden or warm, floating or with inexpensive linoleum.

Floor slabs are a universal base - they are strong, able to withstand enormous loads and be used for many years in the most severe conditions, without losing their strength properties. But no matter what coating we lay, it is worth remembering the necessary sequence of actions in laying the various layers. In any case, the manufacture of wooden floors on concrete floors is as follows:

1. Substrate preparation, cleaning or screed.
2. Marking the lag installation and applying special glue to the surface.
3. Laying the log strictly horizontally, using a hydraulic level or a conventional level.
4. Laying a waterproofing layer over the log.
5. Laying insulation between the lags.
6. Placement of the draft layer, whether it be a board, plywood or chipboard.
7. Vapor barrier layer.
8. Substrate.
9. Finishing coating, laminate or parquet, or boards.

The manufacture of a concrete base takes much less time than a wooden one, but its properties are completely different. Such floors have extremely high strength in comparison with any other type of floor, are not subject to destruction and aging. This floor is static, its thermal expansions are so slow and insignificant that any finished coating on it does not experience any deformation loads and can serve for a very long time. With proper arrangement, it serves as an excellent barrier to heat loss, and in an emergency, such as a flood, it will not allow water to penetrate to neighbors.

Of the minuses, the following can be distinguished. Low heat capacity, i.e., poor ability to retain heat in itself - therefore, such a floor without a finishing coating will almost always be cold, unless it is made using underfloor heating technology. He is very heavy. It has a serious load on the supporting structures and the foundation, so if this is a private house, and even with floating soil, you should refrain from such a floor.

Now let's look at the sequence of work. It consists of the following steps:

1. Surface preparation.
2. Primer with deep penetration compounds.
3. Laying rolled waterproofing or applying liquid formulations with the same properties.
4. Installation of a reinforcing cage, or the use of basalt fiber. In the case of reinforcement with cell layers, we bind or weld them and lay them on pieces of brick so as to move them away from the surface (so that when pouring the screed, the mesh is in the middle).
5. Installation of beacons. They lay down on a solid strip of cement mortar with a small addition of alabaster - this “slide” is laid on top of the reinforcing cage, but in such a way that it does not catch on.
6. Preparation of a solution using plasticizers or several caps of shampoo.
7. Pouring the solution, pulling the screed.
8. Laying vapor barrier, underlayment and finishing coat.

Floors on the ground

This coating is typical for newly erected buildings. The floor on the ground must meet many criteria - after all, it is the main barrier from the earth, which constantly strives to destroy it, saturate it with moisture and take away heat.

To prevent the harmful effects of these factors, multi-layer laying technology is used. Ground work is carried out as follows and in this order:

1. If we have soft ground at the base, cut off the top layer, about 20–30 cm.
2. The resulting layer of earth is rammed with a special metal chock or press.
3. We lay a pillow of sand mixed with crushed stone on the rammed earth. The layer should be about 10-15 cm.
4. We lay the damper tape made of foamed polyurethane.
5. Next, fill in the draft layer of the screed, it is possible without reinforcement and beacons. Fill with a layer of about 5-15 cm.
6. We lay a layer of polyethylene or roofing material for waterproofing.
7. Then we lay a layer of insulating material. It is best to use foam or polystyrene foam.
8. We lay the reinforcing mesh on islands of brick to create a gap and position the reinforcement in the middle of the screed layer.
9. Installing beacons.
10. Install damper tape.
11. We fill in the finishing layer of the screed.
12. We lay the vapor barrier, the substrate and any finishing coating.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making a floor with your own hands, and you are able to do it all yourself in a short period of time. All that will stop you is the drying time of the layers.

Source: http://mrpol.su

First, the ground on which the pillow will be laid must be dry. If it is wet, wait until it dries or dry it using specialized diesel infrared guns that will effectively cope with this task.

The rough layer of the screed should dry completely - on average, it takes 20-25 days, and in climates with high humidity - 28-30 days. The final layer of the screed should be thinner, no more than 5 cm. It also dries from 20–25 days.

In order for this layer to turn out to be of high quality, it must be covered with a film immediately after pouring. For uniform drying, it is abundantly moistened twice in 24 hours, and then covered with plastic wrap for 3-4 days to evenly distribute moisture. Then the film is removed and left for 20–25 days to dry completely.

This method is effectively used to make the floor in a private house, since usually only there is it necessary to pour the screed onto the ground. This concludes the discussion of making a screed on the ground with our own hands, and now let's move on to the next type.

Floors with basalt fiber

A novelty in the building materials market. Appeared not so long ago, about seven years ago, but did not receive much distribution. Basalt fiber is an extremely strong fiber with an amazing property to resist tearing. It is a fiber, most often white in color, only 5-7 cm in length, which are supplied in bags.

The manufacturing technology of concrete screed with basalt fiber is as follows. Exactly the same operations are performed as when pouring a conventional screed, but with one cardinal difference. We do not put reinforcing cages and rods into the base, but instead add basalt fibers directly to the solution, in the proportion indicated on the package, and mix. After hardening, the fibers bind the entire canvas with thousands of threads, which give the structure incredible strength and flexibility.

This method is rarely used in home construction, but almost all industrial facilities are built in this way. In cases where support beams or stiffeners are being erected, the methods are combined, that is, both reinforcement and basalt are used to obtain heavy-duty structures.

Floors with wooden base

To understand what it is to make concrete floors on a wooden base, watch this video very carefully. Or you will definitely achieve the destruction of the entire structure. No, we don't scare you, we just try to warn you.

The fact is that wood and metal are materials with completely different nature, structure and properties. The tree is never static, it is always moving. Its dynamics is determined by humidity, temperature, degree of drying. It is forbidden to pour the screed on the tree at all if the tree is fresh - only after a 3-year period!

Under the influence of the same temperature, these materials expand in different ways, so they need to be combined so that they are completely independent of each other. For this, an ordinary plastic film is used - concrete does not stick to it at all and seems to slide while the tree moves.

The whole process should be performed in the following sequence:

1. We remove the boardwalk and revise all the logs in order to remove damaged and rotten ones, otherwise the wooden floor may not withstand the load. A concrete slab with a thickness of 5 cm and an area of ​​1 m 2 weighs about 300 kg.
2. We restore the flooring and treat the wood with an antiseptic and a primer.
3. We lay down the plastic film.
4. We lay reinforcement or use fiber-reinforced concrete.
5. Install damper tape.
6. Place beacons.
7. We fill the screed.

As a result, we get two coatings that exist absolutely separately from each other. This design is rarely used in practice, but sometimes it is essential. No matter how complex it is, it has all the properties of a full-fledged concrete base and the thermal characteristics of a wooden floor.

Floors in industrial buildings

If there is a need to produce specific floors with increased strength and improved performance, then you need to learn about the manufacture of floors in an industrial building.

Such a coating is poured in the same way as all screeds. We use waterproofing, damper tape, reinforcement, basalt fiber. But there are several critical differences. In industrial buildings, depending on the purpose, either a simple screed or a screed with iron is made. Depending on the expected load, the layer thickness increases from 5 cm, as in civil buildings, to 20 cm for industrial facilities.

Reinforcement is laid without fail, and in two stages. The first is the bottom reinforcement, the second is the top. The floor is poured in such a way that the reinforcing cage is 5 cm from the bottom and 5 cm from the top of the screed, because the coating can work not only in tension under heavy weight, but also in compression, and each of the reinforcement belt must extinguish these efforts.

And most importantly, any industrial screed should be made only with the help of vibration machines. These are special installations that cause the solution layer to compact under the action of vibration and fill all the voids more thoroughly. In this way, excellent coating qualities can be achieved.

Well, dear reader, here you have learned everything you could about what flooring devices are and how to make them. There are, of course, specific schemes - for example, manufacturing in a bathhouse, but they differ only in the presence of drains and drainage pits, and are made according to exactly the same principles as everyone else. Now, with this information, you can easily equip the floor for any purpose. Good luck and see you soon!

When carrying out major repairs in any room, they often resort to choosing a floor screed instead of the old one. This is due to the fact that it is not always possible to find a flat base on which the flooring is laid, even in new buildings or houses with history. As for the floor screed device, that is, the intermediate layer between the floor slab and the coating, in prefabricated houses, there are some peculiarities that you should familiarize yourself with before starting the whole process. Otherwise, problems may begin not only with neighbors, but also with management companies.

concept

In a panel house, a floor screed, regardless of which option is chosen, is created to strengthen the base. With all this, the leveling of floors in a panel house is very high quality. If everything is done with high quality and in compliance with the technology, then flooring is carried out quickly and easily. In addition to this, the duration of the operational period of the material used in the work is increased.

Screeds are also carried out in panel houses with the aim that all repairs in the rest of the apartment are not in vain. Smoothness and catches the eye of everyone who enters the room. If on your own it is not possible to carry out a floor screed in a panel house, then it is best to turn to specialists who, at an affordable cost, will perform the entire amount of work in a short time.

When performing a screed, one should not forget about the sound insulation layer. Indeed, it is for panel houses that the audibility of neighbors is inherent not only from the upper floors, but also from the lower ones. In order to feel calm and comfortable in the apartment, when installing a floor screed, you should think about this layer.

Types of screeds

All floor leveling options have a different purpose. Some contribute to the formation of a warm floor system, and some already act as a finishing base. Everything will depend on the specific situation and the desire to perform a flat floor according to all the requirements and rules. Screeds are divided into the following types:

At present, technology has made it possible to use various polymer components. The focus is on polypropylene fiber. It replaces the reinforcing mesh or other reinforcement options, which also reduces the entire solution, and, consequently, the pressure on the ceiling. All these points are very important for a panel house, since the design does not always allow you to create serious loads on the base during operation.

Most often used in panel houses. With their help, a strong one is created. The height differences that this design allows you to hide are from 20 to 40 mm. Mounting the screed is very simple and convenient. It does not require special knowledge and serious requirements in terms of experience. It is very important in this case to arrange a waterproofing layer, after which the screed is already poured.

It is worth paying attention to the new popular technique, that this technology for installing a screed in a panel house is very fast and consists in the fact that it requires the use of special equipment. Its cost is high, for this reason it is best to use a contract. Only with technology will the maximum result in terms of surface quality and durability be achieved. , compared with , is reduced by about 2-3 times.

Preparatory activities

Particular attention should be paid precisely, since it is especially popular among those living in panel houses. To begin with, a number of preparatory measures should be carried out, which include not only cleaning the base from debris and dirt, removing dust with a construction vacuum cleaner, but also installing a waterproofing layer. It can be used as a polyethylene film. If there are large mortar protrusions between the floor slabs, they should, if possible, be cut off in order to reduce the subsequent thickness of the entire. Mounting loops are subject to cutting.

When the preparation is completed, it is necessary to carry out qualitative marking on the base, noting the zero level and the level of pouring the future screed. All measurements should be made carefully and accurately, since evenness, as well as the thickness of the grout, will depend on them. In this situation, it is worth paying attention to the fact that not every panel house will be able to create a large load on the ceiling. Especially when it comes to old buildings. Before starting work, everything should be cleared to the ground and, if possible, assess the condition.

Soundproofing

The main problem for a panel house is a lot of noise from neighbors. When installing a floor screed, you should think about it and arrange it additionally, which allows you to reduce the level of noise entering the apartment through various sources.

Before leveling panel floors, you should think about high-quality sound insulation. In its quality, various components and materials can be used, which are presented in the assortment on the construction market. It can be a mineral wool board with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm. At the same time, they will have a different density per cubic meter.

Additionally, it can be arranged from existing communications. If floating floors are arranged, then the Shumanet-100C type is usually used. It is performed in two layers on different sides of a water or other pipe. When installing self-leveling floors in an apartment, one should not forget about one of the layers, which is provided for by the technology for obtaining a flat floor for a panel house. But it is worth deciding when it is possible, what conditions must be observed and presented.

We must not forget about the waterproofing layer on top of the soundproofing. In addition, it is worth noting that in addition to heating pipes, additional soundproofing materials should be laid on the ceiling. Here, the Noise Stop-C2 type would be an excellent option.

If you do not deviate from the recommendations of the manufacturer and specialists with extensive experience in this field, then in the end everything will turn out to be of high quality. Virtually no noise will come from the lower floors. But even the slightest inaccuracies and errors will lead to the manifestation of sounds.

Installation of beacons

When performing a cement-sand screed to level the base of the floor, you should think about the location. Initially, it is worth choosing their specific option, which will play a completely different function depending on various conditions. Before you learn about the best way to make a screed in an apartment, beacons are purchased and installed.

The location of the beacons should be such that the rule can easily pass through them when leveling the solution. This suggests that beacons should be installed at a distance from each other in rows less than the length of the rule by about 15-20 cm. In addition, they should be located at a distance of 30 cm from the walls in the room and strictly according to the level. It is from the quality of this stage that the filling of the floor with a sand-cement mixture will also depend. Everything will come from the lighthouses. If it is observed, then the floor screed in the panel house will be of high quality. In any case, attention should be paid to the thickness, which should not exceed the allowable limits. Under certain circumstances, expanded clay or its analogues can generally be used to reduce the total mass of the future screed.

Pouring process

How the floor screed is performed in the apartment depends on the financial situation. There are a huge number of materials.
You can prepare a solution for pouring the floor in parts yourself or purchase ready-made mixtures with all the necessary components, in which it will be enough to add only a certain amount of water.

But many people have a question about whether it is possible to fill the floor in parts. This can be done, but it is best to distribute the solution throughout the room in one go. At the beginning of work, it will not be superfluous to pre-moisten the surface of the solution in contact with the subsequent pouring, or treat it with agents to increase the level of adhesion. In this case, the setting will be better, and therefore, a strong one will turn out to be necessary.

The scheme for pouring floors will depend on the specific option, as well as experience. In any case and at any time, you can invite specialists until everything is spoiled. They will be able to bring everything to its logical conclusion.

What to do after floor screed in the apartment? Here it remains only to wait for the complete drying of the solution. But in the process, measures should be taken to ensure that it dries evenly without errors. To do this, the surface is covered with a plastic film, pre-wetted for several days. It is very important to create the same conditions of temperature and humidity in the room until it dries completely. Drafts or low temperatures are not allowed. Even high temperatures can only lead to premature drying of the screed and incomplete setting of the mortar mass.

All this suggests that it is not enough just to fill the screed. It is important to monitor its maturation very much. After a few days, you can walk on the surface, but it is forbidden to create loads and exert a mechanical effect. All subsequent work, including flooring in a panel house, can be performed only after the solution has completely dried. For a cement-sand screed, this period is usually up to 1 month. It all depends on the components and the mixture used in the work.

Dry screed laying

You can not ignore and, which is most often performed using Knauf technology. There are no difficulties in the installation process, the main thing is the sequence of all actions. After the preparatory measures and the creation of a waterproofing layer on the surface, it is possible to backfill the bulk material. It can be absolutely any component intended for these purposes. The most commonly used is expanded clay.

After backfilling, special slabs should be laid, which may also differ from each other in terms of components. The slabs are often based on gypsum, which has the necessary functions and properties.

To connect the plates to each other and fasten them to the base, a special construction adhesive is used. Self-tapping screws can remain on the surface if the technology is not followed, which will immediately be noticeable when. Glue does not create such negative qualities. The surface becomes perfectly flat.

This method of arranging floors in prefabricated houses reduces the time of work to flooring or other finishing. Floor leveling is done very quickly and does not create any problems for beginners.

There should be no questions about whether it is possible in a panel house. It is simply necessary to do this if you want to create a flat surface and subsequently perform high-quality flooring. But at the same time, one should adhere to the requirements, the main of which are the thickness of the screed and the load created on the floor.

It is very important to prepare the base well before starting work. The final result will depend on this. If you move away from the technology of creating a flat surface, regardless of the chosen screed option, then the consequences will not be long in coming.
You will have to dismantle the coating again and disassemble the screed.

The base before pouring the screed will increase the degree of adhesion of the solution. The number of layers will depend on the evenness of the floor in the room. Subsequent layers can only be applied after the previous one has dried. Prior to application, existing cracks, potholes and other damage to the base should be removed.

The level of the screed will determine the hydraulic level. From the “zero level” all other measurements and marking calculations in the room take place. The process is very responsible, like any other in the technology used.

If you have even small doubts about the quality of the work on your own, it is best to seek help from construction teams. For a certain amount, depending on the volume and type of work, they will create a really flat floor in a panel house.

A high-quality floor arrangement on floor slabs implies a comfortable living for people in the room.

Scheme of the device wood-chip floor.

Classification of floors is made by types of coatings:

• boardwalks;
• parquet;
• linoleum;
• slab.

And by type of structure:

• layered;
• single layer;
• separate hollow;
• separate voidless.

Required tool:

Scheme of overlapping over a ventilated underground.

• grinder;
• plane;
• a hammer;
• trowel;
• cord;
• rule;
• saw;
• fasteners;
• screwdriver;
• roulette.

Layered floor device

Mainly used in interfloor ceilings. They are made from several layers above colder rooms (basements, garages). A soundproofing layer is laid on the floor slabs, and on it a hard floor covering - piece parquet or parquet panels. For sound insulation, fiberboard grades 4, 12, 20 are used.

Single layer construction

Such a floor is made directly on the floor slabs. If irregularities are found, a leveling layer must be made. The material for the construction of a single-layer floor can be bio-resistant linoleum, which is not subject to decay processes. In rooms with high humidity (toilet, bath), a single-layer floor can be made of ceramic tiles or rubber-based linoleum.

Installation of a separate hollow core

Diagram of a soundproof floor.

First, a soundproof layer is laid on the floor slabs, then the logs are strengthened, and the clean floor material is laid on them: parquet boards, tongue-and-groove boards or wooden shields. If a solid flooring is made of unplaned boards in the room, then fiberboard boards are laid on top, the thickness of which must be at least 20 mm. Logs for the construction of a separate hollow floor on floor slabs must be planed and treated with an antiseptic. The dimensions of the bars (lag) are 80 * 40 mm. Depending on the thickness of the flooring, the distance between the lags is determined. The thinner the material, the more often the bars are laid.

The device of a separate voidless floor

Scheme of self-laying floorboards.

It is built on the basis of a monolithic screed made on floor slabs. The screed is made from a mixture of concrete and porous aggregate class B12.5 with a density grade D1200, the thickness of the screed should be no more than 40 mm. It cannot be leveled with cement mortar, the irregularities should simply be sanded. A gap of 20-30 mm is made between the monolithic screed and the walls of the room along the perimeter, which is filled with soundproofing material and subsequently closed with a plinth.

The external covering of such a floor can be linoleum, PVC tiles, parquet, laminate parquet, fiberboards or other materials. A layer of waterproofing material is placed on top of the screed. It is overlapped or the joints are coated with bituminous mortar. Then they put a layer of sound insulation from mineral wool grade 125-150 up to 60 mm thick, fiberboard plates up to 50 mm thick, sand or expanded clay.

Parquet flooring

Floor plan.

Beautiful appearance, low thermal insulation and soundproofing make parquet (parquet boards, parquet boards, block parquet) a popular material in the construction of floors on ceilings. The device of such a floor is possible on a solid plank base, fiberboard slabs, cement-sand screeds. The floors made of piece parquet, made with a herringbone pattern with or without friezes, look good.

First you need to mark the rows of the coating so that there is less waste. A layer of glassine is laid on the prepared base, and a beacon "Christmas tree" is laid on it. Focusing on it, a floor covering is made with careful connection and fastening of each parquet plank with forty nails, two driven into the side groove and one into the end groove. With a doboynik deepen the caps into the material.

The device of floors from a piece parquet on couplers is made on a hot or cold solution of bitumen in "christmas tree" without friezes. When laying parquet, if necessary, level it with a special parquet-planing machine or a manual planer; after the guard, skirting boards are installed, the floor is scraped and polished. The floor is slightly moistened before scraping. The private master does inexpensive parquet scraping. The laid parquet is rubbed with mastic or varnish.

Linoleum floors

Scheme of insulation of the floor of the first floor.

Linoleum is a material used for flooring. It has such qualities as strength, durability, resistance to chemicals, elasticity; it is easy to clean and wash. For all these qualities, the material is very popular with developers. The disadvantages include susceptibility to deformation - expansion, shrinkage, warping and swelling. To prevent their appearance, linoleum is preliminarily kept in a rolled state for several days to straighten and take the shape of the floor.

The quality of the base for the flooring significantly affects the quality of the linoleum floor. Possessing elasticity, linoleum is able to perceive even the slightest irregularities. Therefore, the ground must be level, clean, dry and solid. The horizontalness of the base must be checked with a special rail. The bases for linoleum can be screeds made of cement-sand mortar, fiberboard boards, chipboard boards, cinder-block, expanded clay concrete and plank floors.

To install a new screed on the floor slabs, a 3: 1 sand-cement mortar is made, which is laid on a hard and durable preparation with a layer of up to 3 cm and leveled with a rule or a trowel along pre-installed guide rails. The surface of the previously made screeds must be clean and even. If necessary, the screed can be leveled by laying a new layer of cement-sand mixture with a ratio of 1: 2. Permissible humidity of the base - no more than 10%.

The most time-consuming process is considered to be the process of preparing the bases for sticking linoleum on plank floors made on floor slabs.

Scheme of soundproofing floors.

They must be tough enough. The base boards must not sag. Before sticking linoleum, the base of the floor must be well processed: the lumber must be dry, planed, treated with an antiseptic or drying oil. All cracks must be puttied, cleaned and primed.

When constructing a base made of fiberboard or chipboard, it is also necessary to ensure the rigidity of the base under the slabs with mandatory grouting between them. The slabs are screwed to the wooden base of the floor with screws, their caps are well recessed in the material, and the slabs are glued to the concrete or cement-sand screed with hot bitumen. The surface of the fixed plates is leveled by cutting off the bumps, sealing the seams with mastic, primer and puttying with oil putty. Then linoleum is laid.

Floors made of ceramic tiles

To install the floor on the floor slabs of ceramic tiles, first make a base - a monolithic cement screed with the addition of sand (approximate composition 3: 1; 4: 1), the installation of which is carried out along the waterproofing layer. When installing a floor on a wooden base, it is necessary to stick waterproofing on the flooring with hot bituminous mastic, then put a reinforced mesh and put a mortar over it. For the screed device, beacon wooden slats should be used, installed in level along the walls of the room. Put the prepared solution between the slats. The horizontality of the screed is checked by the rule, the ends of which must rest on the beacon rails. After the solution has hardened, the slats are removed. The remaining grooves are filled with mortar.

Scheme of overlapping and floor insulation.

Before laying the tiles, they must be sorted by size and color. Make a breakdown of the floor according to the selected pattern of the future coating, after which you should check the squareness of the room with a cord, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner, and then determine the width of the frieze and lay two mutually perpendicular rows according to the pattern dry. The distance between the tiles when laying them should be no more than 2 mm.

If the tiles do not fit completely, they can be cut and laid in a row closer to the wall. According to the marks made on the clean floor, beacon tiles are laid. Then, along the cord and ruler, corner, intermediate and frieze beacons are installed. On the prepared solution, the seal is made and the first row of tiles is laid. After laying the frieze rows, they begin to lay the tiles of the main pattern of the floor covering. In order not to step on already laid tiles, their flooring starts from the far wall.

The mortar used must be of a plastic consistency, and it is advisable to lay it in an even strip on several rows of tiles at once. Having laid the tile on the mortar, it should be slightly precipitated with light blows of a trowel or hammer on the bar laid on top. Checking the horizontality of the laid tiles is carried out by the rule. The seams between them must be free from mortar. Two days after laying the tiles, they are filled with a creamy solution of cement in water, having previously cleaned the surface. The infusion is performed 2-3 times, as the solution shrinks. The remains of the solution are removed from the surface immediately after completion of work by wiping the tiles with moistened sawdust. Fill the laid tiles with moistened sawdust in a layer of 15-20 cm, and, periodically moistening them, achieve good hardening of the solution.

Installation of laminated parquet floors

Modern building material for flooring on floor slabs is laminated parquet. This is an environmentally friendly coating, reminiscent of wooden parquet, which consists of several layers and is very convenient to use. It is made of dense, water-resistant fiberboards, covered with a layer imitating wood. Plank dimensions: length - 1.2-1.7 m, width - up to 18 cm, thickness - from 6 to 14 mm. Laminate planks are top coated with acrylate or melamine resin to protect against mechanical damage.

The reinforced concrete base of the floors has remarkable strength, is not subject to aging and destruction.

Its thermal expansion characteristics are very small, so any finish coating does not experience significant deformation loads.

The device of floors can be very different - the bearing capacity of concrete is so great that the weight of the structures does not matter.

Layers that make up the construction of floors on reinforced concrete slab bases: possible options

When arranging the floor, its layers can be:

• concrete slabs;
• heat-insulating material (expanded clay);
• screed (solid fiberboard, cement-sand);
• waterproofing (polyethylene film with a foil surface, bituminous mastics);
• soundproofing;
• underlying layer (chipboard, fiberboard);
• adhesives (mastic, PVA dispersion, bitumen);
• finishing (tile, parquet, other flooring).

A correctly and competently formed floor structure on a reinforced concrete slab also includes adjoining details (skirting boards), seams, etc.

There are a lot of flooring options, they can be changed according to the circumstances. For example, linoleum can be laid on chipboard without gluing, welding only at the seams. However, it is important to remember that full-fledged sound and heat insulation will make life in a home much more comfortable.

Linoleum flooring on concrete floor
Linoleum installation

Laminate screed flooring scheme
Cutting excess linoleum

Linoleum flooring on concrete

When choosing as a linoleum coating, floor systems can be:

• reinforced concrete floor;
• cement-sand screed (about 20 mm thick). The basis of this solution is materials of grades M-200, M-150;
• bituminous mastic, the thickness of the applied layer is 0.5 mm;
• bituminous primer 0.3 mm thick;
• linoleum.

If you want to insulate the system between the plates and the screed, a layer of expanded clay concrete with a thickness of about 60 mm is arranged. In this case, you can use linoleum on a heat-insulating base, carpet, and also exclude the screed from the design.

Laminate flooring, parquet

In terms of their design features, floors on a reinforced concrete slab with a finished flooring made of laminate, parquet differ slightly from the previous version.

The components are:

• reinforced concrete floor;
• expanded clay concrete with a layer of 40 mm;
• screed 20 mm - its solution is prepared from material grades M-150, 200;
• mastic: bituminous in 0.5 mm, adhesive - in 0.3 mm;
• parquet.

For additional insulation, a layer of expanded clay concrete is mounted in front of the screed device.

Laminate on reinforced concrete screed
How to lay laminate on concrete slab

Ceramic tiles on a concrete base
Laying tiles

Ceramic tiles on a concrete base

The easiest way in such a situation is tiling with mortar. In this case, a screed is applied to the concrete, and then tiles are laid on the mortar. When using adhesives, a bituminous primer is applied, and then the tile is fixed onto the adhesive mastic. If necessary, insulation on the slabs is equipped with an expanded clay concrete layer, which is successively covered with a screed, primer, mastic and a final element - tiles.

How to arrange soundproofing

Good isolation is an opportunity to exclude the penetration of extraneous annoying noises from neighbors, to make your life truly intimate.

For soundproofing, you will need to supplement the structure with additional elements:

• cover the leveling layer with lining roofing material in one or two layers;
• mount wooden logs;
• lay soundproofing material between the lags: mineral wool, glass wool, etc .;
• close the logs with a plank covering;
• build a leveling layer of fiberboard.

Floors on concrete slabs are able to withstand high loads. For this reason, most often they become part of the structures of multi-storey buildings. Laying slabs is a fairly simple task, but the characteristics of the material make some adjustments to the flooring process.

What should be considered when working with a concrete base?

1. Surface unevenness;
2. gaps between plates;
3. Pretty cool temperature.

Creating a screed on a concrete slab

The device of the floor on the slab suggests the presence of several options. The simplest is pouring the screed. You can make it in several ways:

• Mixing sand and cement (with the addition of water);
• By preparing a special mixture.

The old-fashioned method is no longer very relevant today. Much better than the second option. Of course, the purchase of a dry mix will cost a little more, but the result of its use will be much better. The fact is that manufacturers put on the market improved formulations, which include plasticizers, polymers and other components that improve product quality.

Mounting process

First of all, you need to inspect the slab for defects in order to know which places will have to pay more attention when pouring the solution. After that, a primer is applied to it (with a roller or brush).

Important! It is best to use a deep penetration primer. When the surface is dry, you should go to the screed. The layer should not be very thick. Its task is to hide defects and slightly level the surface. Somewhere in a day, the screed will dry out and it can be covered with a film. Polyethylene will play the role of a vapor and water insulator. The film should cover not only the floor, but also at least 15 centimeters of the wall.

After that, metal profiles or wooden slats are exposed over the entire area. The so-called beacons are installed in the same horizontal plane.

How to install a beacon?

1. In the corner of the room, near the stove itself, set the laser level. When the light rays mark a contour on the walls, make sure that they exactly repeat the level of the floor, along which you will need to carry out a fine finish.
2. It is necessary to install beacons over the entire area (along the contour) at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule, which will align the screed. Previously, strong threads are pulled from opposite walls. They are attached to self-tapping screws. Lighthouses are fixed with a plaster or screed mortar.

Final steps

Having installed the beacons, you can proceed to laying the insulation. There are no restrictions on the choice of material, but expanded clay will be the most optimal. It does not need to be protected with a film, unlike porous heaters. Then comes the turn of the main screed. It must be dense, and also have a thickness that can withstand heavy loads (5-15 cm).

Important! To make a flat floor, you need to use the rule. It should be laid on the beacons and pulled towards you. As a result, the excess solution will shrink to the wall and fill in the bumps.

The floor will dry in a few days. Then it will be possible to remove the beacons and fill the gaps. Finishing is recommended only on a completely dry surface.

Making a wooden floor

Wooden floor and now the most popular in private homes. Its installation is not particularly difficult. You need to start the device with the elimination of base defects. The usual solution based on cement will do. They close up cracks, chips, seams between the plates.

Then, with the help of a laser level, a contour is determined, along which a finished surface is eventually exposed, and the turn comes to create a general design.

Main works

The floor is covered with waterproofing material, as indicated at the beginning. Then the lags are mounted. They are installed in the same horizontal plane.

Important! The logs are fixed perpendicular to the boards, and the boards are fixed perpendicular to the wall with a window.

There are several options:

1. Using long self-tapping screws, the logs are cut through and fixed to the floor. Holes in the plate are made in advance. Plastic dowels are necessarily inserted into them.
2. Along the edges of the lag, you can install supports made from wooden slats or pieces of lag. The supports are attached to the floor, the logs are laid between them.
3. The modern way is to install a log on lifting devices.

Final steps

After installing and fixing the lag, you should do the floor insulation. Insulation is laid in the interlag space. The type of material used is not important, its thickness is important. In the process of installing wooden floors, the main thing is not to forget to leave a gap between the clean coating and the insulation. It will become ventilation, which will remove excess moisture and increase the life of the coating and thermal insulation materials.

Now it remains to cover the surface with polyethylene and proceed to the final step - laying the boards.

Water floor device

Before proceeding to the installation of warm water floors, you need to deal with their thermal insulation. For this case, foil insulation is best suited. It is covered with a reinforcing mesh. After that, you can already lay out pipes for water heating. They are fixed to the grid with plastic clamps.

Important! For greater reliability, a reinforcing mesh is also laid on top of the structure.

To protect the expansion joints, pipes are laid out along the walls (corrugated ones are suitable). It will be possible to proceed to concrete pouring after hydraulic testing. The water system is checked for faults during the day. All detected problems are promptly corrected.

To make the finishing screed of a warm water floor, you need to use a cement mortar. The thickness of the layer should be within 5-15 cm. After a day or two, it will dry, after which it will be possible to proceed to the direct operation of the warm floor. Raise the temperature gradually.

This method of arranging warm water floors is relevant not only if the floor slab acts as the basis, but also the concrete floor on the ground. The water floor is great for both home and apartment. It is warm, durable, protects against moisture and mold.

Laying self-leveling floors

To make the self-leveling floor the main coating, you need to start by priming the base. Epoxy or polyurethane primer is applied in two layers (only from one mixture). The front layer is applied exclusively to the decorated coating. Photo printing looks especially impressive on the surface. It is made on a special film, and a transparent self-leveling floor is laid on top.

Laying technology

The process of installing self-leveling floors begins with a standard procedure - cleaning the surface from dust and dirt. Next, a primer is applied. After it dries along the vertical surfaces that will be in contact with the self-leveling floor, a damper tape is glued around the perimeter. It protects the bulk base from cracking.

Then comes the turn of applying the self-leveling floor solution. It must be done, clearly following the instructions, using an electric mixer at low speeds.

Important! To get a homogeneous composition, you need to stir the mixture according to the principle: stir-stop. The duration of the action-inactivity should be the same and not exceed 5 minutes.

The finished solution is poured onto the surface and spread with a roller or spatula, and air bubbles are removed with a spiked roller. The thickness of the fill should be at least 3 cm. Now you need to wait until the coating hardens.

Important! Direct sunlight and drafts have a negative effect on uncured material.

The thickness of the surface also affects the time of complete drying of the surface. Hardening times are indicated on the packaging of the dry mix. As a rule, work on laying ceramic tiles begins after three days, and the installation of parquet - after a week.

The role of OSB in flooring

OSB or OSB is used to achieve one or all of 3 objectives:

1. To level the floor and hide defects.
2. To ensure good sound insulation. The multi-layer structure successfully absorbs noise.
3. To insulate the floor and make high-quality waterproofing. The natural-based material is characterized by increased moisture resistance and perfectly saves heat.

Features of the use of the material

OSB (OSB) are not always fixed to the floor. If the concrete base has large height differences or significant irregularities, the slabs are fixed on wooden beams. The latter successfully act as a lag.

Important! OSB (OSB)-plates with a thickness of 10 mm provide maximum resistance to deformation. They are laid in two layers (with offset). Fastening parts of the material is carried out using glue or spiral nails.