To provide heat in the house, it is necessary to insulate not only the roof, but also the walls.
There is a wide range of materials for wall insulation on the market.
Walls can be insulated both outside and inside.
When the walls are insulated from the outside, the area of \u200b\u200bthe living space is preserved, and insulation technology allows you to provide the building with warm and modern walls.
Before proceeding with the insulation of the walls, it is necessary to determine the method of insulation. Stack or - individual preference. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages. The features of each method of insulation must be studied at the time of the design of the building.
Internal wall insulation is characterized by the following features:
Negative factors for internal insulation are:
The method of wall insulation from the outside is more popular despite the fact that the cost of labor and materials for performing work is much higher than the method of internal insulation.
Dew point
The advantage of wall insulation from the outside is:
In addition, the outer walls are additionally protected from the effects of atmospheric phenomena, which significantly increases the service life of the structure.
The main disadvantages of external thermal insulation of a structure are:
It is advisable to insulate walls with expanded polystyrene from the outside, since the material does not allow air to pass through, which can lead to condensation inside the wall during internal insulation, and inside the room, the material can emit a specific smell.
Expanded polystyrene material is porous air-containing raw materials, is used in most cases as a heat-insulating material.
In industry, the material can also be used as an electrical insulating and packaging material.
The material has gained wide application due to its quality indicators:
Comparison of heaters
Despite the impressive list of positive indicators, expanded polystyrene has disadvantages that must be considered during installation:
However, the production technology of these materials is different.: polystyrene foam is produced by extrusion, when the granules melt when combined into a single structure, polystyrene foam - by gluing the granules with dry steam.
Specifications
Expanded polystyrene is classified according to the method of production of the material and the inclusion of various additives in it:
There are other types of expanded polystyrene (extrusive, autoclaved), but they are not used as heaters, because they have different characteristics.
In addition to the types of expanded polystyrene, there are also various types of insulation, such as:
A wall pie is called layers of materials that are stacked in a certain order, each of which performs its own functions to ensure a normal microclimate in the room.
When thermal insulation of brick walls with polystyrene, laid outside, pie wall looks like this:
NOTE!
When arranging a wall using expanded polystyrene, it is necessary to lay the layers in a strict sequence.
Internal and finishing plaster can be replaced with other finishing materials, which are provided by design solutions.
Wall cake "wet"
An important requirement in the construction and home improvement is the correct implementation of all work to ensure ventilation and waterproofing, since it is the incorrect installation of these components that significantly reduces the characteristics of the structure.
When insulating walls with polystyrene, waterproofing is not needed.. It should be noted that with a high passage of groundwater under the building, it is imperative to waterproof the basement and foundation.
Since expanded polystyrene does not allow air and water to pass through, it is not necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer when insulating walls from the outside.
Insulation wall pie for siding
Installation of polystyrene foam on the crate is the most time-consuming process among the insulation options. Most often, the crate is done in the case of finishing with siding.
If it is planned to carry out work on the installation of siding on the wall of a house made of beams, then you must first seal the seams with high quality, clean the surface of dust and debris and seal the gaps with sealants, mounting foam or a mixture of sawdust and PVA.
If the wall is concrete, brick or foam blocks, then cracks in such houses are cleaned of sand, treated with a primer, then sealed as follows:
Large cracks can be repaired with anchors:
Crack sealing
When the wall is prepared for laying insulation, you can mount the crate.
The crate for siding can be made from a metal profile and from a wooden bar. In humid climates, it is advisable to install metal rails.
Before proceeding with the installation of the crate, it is necessary to determine the location of the siding:
The step of the crate is determined by the width of the expanded polystyrene sheet: in width it should fit tightly between the laths of the crate and not form a gap.
The order of work is determined by the steps:
CAREFULLY!
If the crate is made of wood, the boards must first be treated with antiseptic agents.
The implementation of the crate does not require special skills, but it should be noted that the choice of materials should be made based on climate conditions.
Sheathing for siding
Wooden crate
Before proceeding with the insulation of the wall with polystyrene foam, it is necessary to dismantle the drains, decorative elements, clean and prime the wall. Next, make thermal insulation of ebbs and window slopes.
Now let's talk about the thickness of polystyrene foam.
NOTE!
When insulating walls with extruded polystyrene, sheets are used, the thickness of which is from 80 to 100 mm and more.
You can also use thinner sheets. 30-40 mm thick if laid in two layers.
Let's start installing the insulation on the walls with our own hands:
After installing the insulation, a reinforcing mesh is applied to the facade. Grid strips should be cut into corners and slopes and glued with an adhesive with a spatula. An adhesive composition is applied to the grid along the wall so that it penetrates through the grid onto the polystyrene foam by 0.1 cm. If an overlap forms, separate strips of the grid are superimposed on it and glued additionally.
Sectional device
Fixing plates with dowels
Applying mounting adhesive
After complete drying of the surface, it is leveled with fine-grained sandpaper.
Detailed video instruction on wall insulation with extruded polystyrene foam:
In contact with
Energy prices are constantly rising. And every family does not want to pay a lot of money for heating the house. And here the natural question arises - "What to do?". Get warm! In such cases, heating costs will be significantly lower. And not infrequently, among the variety of heaters, people choose foam.
Everyone decides for himself. And if you have not yet decided on this, it is worth analyzing all the subtleties and nuances of using polystyrene foam as a heater. After all, there will always be both positive and negative aspects of this.
Many builders choose him for a reason, because he:
Important! Foremen consider mineral wool to be a similar material, but it is much more expensive than it.
But many highlight its main disadvantage - increased flammability. However, this issue is also partially resolved - by purchasing special grades of foam plastic marked "C" - self-extinguishing.
Increasingly, this material is used for insulation of residential premises. And the concept of environmental friendliness plays an important role here. When heated, it (more than +40 C) begins to release a harmful substance - styrene. That is why it is not recommended to use it for warming a metal roof, and other similar heating elements.
Most builders advise not to use it for interior work, but only for exterior. Moreover, this method of insulation has other advantages:
Important! When insulating with foam from the outside, harmful substances and their evaporation are minimized, in contrast to its use in internal work.
Of course, this material is good, but before deciding on its use in your home, you need to understand that it can not be used everywhere.
So, it will cease to be good if:
If the above does not apply to your premises - you can safely use it. Therefore, it can be found more often in apartments, and not in private homes.
As an example, let's take a situation where polystyrene foam was used to insulate a garage building, which was adjacent to a private house. The joints of the plates were covered with mounting foam. With its thermal insulation function, this material did an excellent job. The room felt noticeably warmer.
But after a short time, mice from the house made moves in it, in some places - through and through. And the insulation work was ruined.
Apartment owners have long been convinced that if the installation work on this insulation is done efficiently, then in winter the wall will please with dryness, and in summer - with coolness. The last factor does not mean that this material works as a coolant.
It just does not keep the temperature in the apartment in the state in which it was originally. And if it has an individual heating plan, then it saves heating costs.
Even if a decision is made to insulate the walls, special tools are not always at hand. And this moment also plays an important role when the material with which these works will be produced is selected.
As practice has shown, in order to install the foam on the outer wall, you just need to adhere to a certain stage of work. Although there is an opinion about the simplicity of such work, irresponsibility can negate all the work.
1. Insulation sheets are laid in a checkerboard pattern, so that the joint from one row falls in the middle of the sheet of another row. All elements are carefully coated with glue.
Important! Choose an antifungal-labeled glue or add a special mixture to it.
2. If there are irregularities on the butt joints, they must be rubbed to perfect condition.
Important! Even the smallest gap at the junction must be puttied.
3. We reinforce our structure to give it the necessary rigidity. To do this, we use a facade mesh, which we glue with a special mixture.
4. We strengthen with the help of a mixture for reinforcement, which we will apply with an additional layer after the reinforcing layer dries.
5. We prime our walls.
6. We complete the work by applying a decorating layer: plaster, decorative plates, facing bricks, etc.
I work for a construction team. We mainly insulate apartments with this material, along the outer perimeter. Not the best option for giving, especially if you keep a bird. They peck clean.
Grade:
Igor, 47 years old, Peter.
About five years ago I insulated the roof with this material. Mounted with my brother in a day. So far everything is great. Everyone is alive and well, no harm was found.
Grade:
Nikolai, 34 years old, Voronezh.
They insulated the bathhouse and the summer kitchen. Ease and simplicity of installation - a class. Well reinforced, top quality plaster. It's been going on for two years now. And yes, chickens walk in the yard - they don’t peck.
Grade:
Alexander, 28 years old, Kyiv.
The corner room in my apartment has always been problematic - cold, there is a fungus on the wall. In the summer, they insulated the outside with polystyrene five. Very satisfied. Now there - dry, warm and no fungus. This is now my daughter's room.
First, let's clarify the terminology. The name "foam plastic" can be attributed to the group of foamed cellular plastics or gas-filled polymers, which include, for example, polyurethane foam, which we wrote about in the article "", as well as foam plastic, foamed polyethylene foam, synthetic rubber and others. Here we will talk exclusively about polystyrene foam.
Styrofoam - expanded polystyrene, or PPS, has many positive characteristics, such as an affordable price with a fairly low thermal conductivity, ease of processing and installation, low weight of the material, etc. But this material is endowed with a number of negative properties: the ability to release toxic substances into the air when ignited, the ability to gradually decompose under the influence of oxygen in the air, temperature changes and, in this connection, low durability, etc. We will touch on all this in more detail below and help the reader to make an objective assessment of the properties of PPS and evaluate the possibilities of using foam for insulation.
The industrial production of polystyrene, or expanded polystyrene, began in the middle of the last century. This material has been used in many areas of human activity - as a convenient packaging for various household goods and industrial equipment, food, thermal insulation of refrigeration units, etc. In the second half of the last century, foam plastic was widely used as thermal insulation in building envelopes.
Expanded polystyrene can be divided into two main types:
The non-pressing method for the production of expanded polystyrene was developed by technologists of the chemical company BASF in Germany in the 50s of the XX century and has been used almost unchanged in the production of foam products since then. The production line for the production of foam boards for construction includes a steam generator that produces steam at a temperature of up to 170 ° C, a pre-expander, a aging hopper, a block mold, a device for cutting foam blocks.
The feedstock for the production of foam products is suspension polystyrene in the form of small granules 0.5-1.5 mm in size. The choice of raw materials, their quality and the size of the granules are important for the production of the final product. Foam boards of higher density are produced from polystyrene with small granules, in addition, fire retardant additives can be added to the feedstock, which increase the fire resistance of the insulation.
The production process of foam boards consists of the following steps in sequence:
Foam boards must comply GOST 15588-86 (ed. 1987) "Polystyrene foam boards", which establishes requirements for performance, dimensions, conditions of transportation and storage.
We will show the properties of the foam for the most common grades of PSB in the table:
The technology for the production of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) differs from the method of manufacturing conventional EPS by the presence of a special unit - an extruder, in which the initial mass of polystyrene granules is melted to a viscous-fluid state under pressure. Carbon dioxide is used as a blowing agent. Further, this mass is pressed through slit-like dies, where it is compacted and takes the desired shape, as a result, a long insulation tape is formed, which is then cut into plates of the desired length.
Advanced technology allows you to get a heater with better characteristics. EPPS has a higher density, strength, lower thermal conductivity and other improved qualities compared to PSB due to a more integral microstructure formed by smaller air-filled cells with impermeable walls of 90-140 microns in size and more tightly bonded to each other.
The differences between the characteristics of PSB and EPPS can be seen in the following table:
The use of foam as a heater became possible due to its structure. If we examine a section of a foam plate under a microscope, we can see that this material consists of porous granules glued together. The air filling the granules in the final product makes up most of the volume - up to 98%, which gives the foam lightness and high heat-shielding properties.
Expanded polystyrene used in construction has the following positive properties:
There are also a number of disadvantages:
The most famous case with many victims who were poisoned by combustion products is a fire at the Lame Horse nightclub in Perm, where a suspended foam ceiling caught fire. Fire safety regulations expressly prohibit the use of materials with such a combustibility group as foam plastic on escape routes and in places where mass congestion of people is possible - in residential buildings and public buildings, entertainment venues, restaurants, cafes, etc. In the case of In a nightclub fire, Styrofoam was used as soundproofing, which is wrong, since this material is not used for soundproofing. What materials can be used for soundproofing can be found in the article "".
The use of foam plastic for insulating low-rise private houses is not regulated by fire safety standards, but in the case when it is necessary to insulate the walls from the inside, it should be provided that the insulation layer is covered with materials that have a high degree of fire resistance, for example, plastering over a mesh or sheathing with plasterboard sheets. These materials for a certain time can protect the insulation from flames in case of fire and prevent the release of toxic substances into the air from the insulation layer.
We have already written about the principle of designing external multilayer walls in the article "", according to which the vapor permeability of materials in a building envelope consisting of several layers should increase from the inside out. This allows water vapor, which accumulates in the air inside due to free gas exchange, to exit through the walls to the outside, maintaining a normal microclimate in the premises. If the wall contains a vapor barrier layer, as is the case with polystyrene foam, then water vapor will introduce itself in different ways - depending on the location of the layer.
When the house is insulated with foam plastic from the inside, water vapor will overmoisten the air in the room, creating uncomfortable conditions, and if the dew point is close to the inner surface, it will tend to condense at the junctions of the inner and outer walls, at the corners and slopes of window openings. If the insulation layer is located outside the wall or inside it, as in the case of three-layer masonry, then water vapor will penetrate the wall and saturate it to the boundary of the insulation. Moisture saturation of any building structure is undesirable, since with constant moisture it causes many negative consequences - increased corrosion, reduced performance and destruction of the material.
All of the above processes do not occur at once, but over a long period of time, during the change of seasons, and the nature of these processes is highly dependent on the climate in the region where a particular building is built. If the autumn-winter period is short, as in the southern regions of Russia, then the dampening of the wall will be insignificant. And during the long spring-summer period, moisture from the wall will evaporate into the room without causing much damage. If the house is built in the northern regions, then the consequences of moisture saturation of the wall can be more dangerous for the structure.
In any case, it is necessary to correctly calculate the thickness of the entire structure of the outer walls and the thickness of the thermal insulation, so that the dew point under the most unfavorable conditions is within the insulation, then all the unpleasant consequences of moisture structures can be avoided.
If the house is insulated with foam plastic with your own hands outside or as part of a three-layer structure, then the best way to protect the walls from saturation with water vapor is to cover the walls from the inside with a vapor barrier film, followed by plasterboard finishing. In this case, vapors from the air will not penetrate the walls, but then the humidity of the indoor air will increase. To solve this problem, it is necessary to equip the house with a forced ventilation system with an air dehumidification function.
Polyfoam PSB, depending on the density, is used in construction for the following purposes:
As we can see, EPPS has significantly better properties in all respects, which makes it possible to use this material in the construction of structures in which the use of conventional PSB foam is unacceptable:
Thermal insulation of the facade with foam plastic, the technology of which is developed in detail in the technical document "Typical flow chart for the installation of insulation of building facades with subsequent finishing using the "wet facade" technology, most fully takes into account the positive and negative properties of this material and consists in the phased implementation of the following work:
Full scheme of the "wet facade"
All work on the construction of the reinforced layer, plastering and painting should be carried out during the warm period in the temperature range of 5-25 ° C in the absence of rain and in calm weather.
The technology for insulating walls with foam plastic constructed from other materials and in other ways, for example, three-layer brick walls or using the construction of a ventilated facade, practically does not differ from the technology for insulating with stone wool, which we described in the article "" in the sections "Arrangement of ventilated facades" and " Insulation of multilayer walls.
Warming the walls of wooden frame houses is not very difficult and is easily done by hand. Foam boards are inserted into the space between the racks of the frame, covered from the inside with a vapor barrier film, and from the outside with a moisture-windproof film, then sheathed from the inside with OSB boards, and from the outside with facade cladding elements.
Wall insulation of log cabins, wooden houses made of profiled or glued beams with expanded polystyrene is undesirable due to its vapor impermeability. Wood is a natural, "breathable" material, which, thanks to its high water vapor permeability, provides the most favorable indoor climate.
If you create an impenetrable barrier due to insulation, then it will not be comfortable inside due to high humidity. In addition, wood itself has high thermal insulation properties, so if you choose the right log diameter or timber thickness in accordance with local climatic conditions, then no additional insulation is required.
Insulation of walls made of aerated concrete, expanded clay concrete and other blocks of lightweight and cellular concrete is carried out using the “wet facade” technology described above, either as part of three-layer walls with brick cladding, or using a ventilated facade technology. In this case, one must remember about vapor permeability. Since lightweight concrete blocks have increased vapor permeability due to their high porosity, they should be protected from moisture saturation from the premises with the help of a vapor barrier film, which must be wrapped around the walls from the inside and then hidden under the finish.
According to portal experts, when using expanded polystyrene as a heater, all its positive and negative properties must be taken into account. In particular, its fire hazard and vapor impermeability should be taken into account. To minimize the negative properties of the material, it is necessary:
If all the required standards are met, the foam plastic or expanded polystyrene insulation can last the entire declared service life without losing heat-shielding qualities.
In an effort to keep costs down, many of us are looking to Styrofoam as wall insulation - both outside and inside. Despite the fact that this material has a number of disadvantages, it can be successfully used for this purpose. Based on my experience in facade work, I will tell you what to pay attention to first of all and how to properly lay the foam as a heater.
Styrofoam is a porous polymer material that is also used to insulate buildings. The use of foam as thermal insulation allows us to talk about the following properties:
Now - about the shortcomings of the material:
Cheaper packaging foams have an even higher flammability index. So saving by using them for insulation is not worth it!
- Low vapor permeability. Polymeric heat-insulating materials (polystyrene, expanded polystyrene and their analogues) do not allow moisture to pass through. Because of this, the natural ventilation of the wall fencing is disrupted, and condensate accumulates under the insulation layer in the thickness of the wall. This leads to the appearance of fungus and other unpleasant consequences.
These shortcomings are not fatal. And if you take them into account, then you can use polystyrene foam as facade thermal insulation.
What is needed for insulation?
Styrofoam or alternatives?
When choosing materials for thermal insulation, you will have to decide what is better for insulation - polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, mineral wool or something else?
In this case, the comparison should be carried out immediately on a number of parameters:
- Thermal conductivity. When choosing what will be used for finishing - polystyrene or mineral wool - first of all, let's pay attention to thermal conductivity. Here, the materials are almost parity: stone wool has a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.045 W / (m ° C), polystyrene - 0.04.
If we have a choice of foam or mineral wool, then there is an advantage in favor of polystyrene plates. They have a thermal conductivity index of 0.035 W / (m ° C), so there is a slight gain in heat.
- Strength. Here, both polystyrene and dense mineral wool products win over foam boards.
- Flammability. From the point of view of safety, the facade boards based on mineral fiber have an advantage. Unlike polymeric heaters, they practically do not burn and do not support combustion.
- Ventilation. For vapor barrier, mineral wool is also preferable. If vapor-permeable materials are used for exterior decoration, then the natural ventilation of the facade will be preserved.
- financial considerations. Cost may also be a priority. When choosing which is more economical - polystyrene or mineral wool - it is important to compare materials of the same purpose. In principle, you can find rolled mineral wool cheaper than polystyrene foam. But only dense slabs are suitable for facades, so foam plastic will be more profitable here.
As you can see, it is difficult to make an unambiguous choice. You will have to not only decide what is warmer, but also look at other indicators! In general, foam plastic is an economical option for insulation: you can find it better, but it’s unlikely that it’s cheaper.
Materials for the thermal insulation layer
Wall insulation with foam plastic involves the formation of a multi-layer finish. Its basis is the heat-insulating material itself, which must meet certain requirements:
- Density. For outdoor work, we choose polystyrene PSB-S 25/35 (density 25 or 35 kg / m 3). Grades with a lower density (PSB-S 10 and 15) are used for wall insulation under dense sheathing and for laying inside.
- Thickness. The optimal dimensions of the insulation layer are from 75 to 150 mm. To reduce heat loss, it is better to lay two heat-insulating layers with offset seams - so there will be no blowing at the joints of the plates.
In addition to foam for wall insulation, you will need:
Illustration Material Adhesive composition on a cement, bitumen or polymer basis. Mounting low-modulus foam. Stucco mesh. Dowel dowels. Finishing materials for the facade:
- putty;
- decorative plaster;
- facade paint.
You may also need: plaster and repair mixtures, primers, antiseptics, metal profiles.
Tools and fixtures
Warming the facade of a building with your own hands involves the use of a certain set of tools. The optimal list includes:
- Perforator.
- Drills for brick or concrete.
- Drill with mixer nozzle.
- Spatulas for applying glue, putty and plaster.
- Styrofoam knife or saw.
- Plaster trowels.
- Brushes for paint and primer.
- Gun for polyurethane foam.
- Level, tape measure and plumb line.
In addition, for the installation of insulation, you will definitely need scaffolding or full-fledged plaster scaffolding.
But the external insulation of the walls of an apartment located above the second floor is best left to professionals. These are already high-altitude works, and it is not so easy to ensure safety on them: you need not only the appropriate equipment, but also skills.
Facade thermal insulation technology
Outside or inside?
When starting to insulate a room using foam, it is important to decide in advance whether we will install the insulation from the inside or outside. I (like the vast majority of decorators) strongly recommend the second option.
Benefits of outdoor insulation
- Saving free space. The useful volume of the premises does not decrease, which is especially important in the case of loggias, balconies and small rooms.
- Efficient heat retention. The wall warms up from the inside, and does not have time to cool down during the night, because it does not come into contact with the external environment.
- Dew point offset. The conditional temperature line, along which the condensation of water vapor occurs, is displayed outside the wall enclosure. Thanks to this, condensation does not form in the thickness of the wall, and this prevents freezing.
The last aspect is very important, especially for brick walls. When condensation forms, the masonry begins to break down more intensively, so we not only insulate the house, but also save it!
How to properly prepare a wall?
The process of preparing a wall for insulation with foam boards is quite simple. We need to perform a rough leveling and ensure that the base adheres to the adhesive.
Illustration Preparation stage Elimination of defects. We inspect the wall, revealing cracks, crevices and other defects.
We knock down large irregularities with a perforator.
We also clean cracks and crevices by removing weakly adhering fragments of material.
Damage repair. After jointing and cleaning, all defects are filled with cement mortar. The surface of the solution is leveled with a spatula.
Primer. Apply a penetrating primer to the cleaned and leveled surface. We carry out the treatment in two steps, pausing between sets at 6-12 hours.
Checking the readiness of the wall for insulation is quite simple. To do this, we glue a small fragment of polystyrene on the surface and after a while we try to tear it off. If the foam itself is torn, and the adhesive layer does not peel off from the wall - we did everything perfectly!
How to insulate the facade with foam boards?
The instruction assumes double fixation of the foam. What does it mean? First, we glue the foam, and then we fix it with dowels, followed by plaster.
Illustration Mounting operation Setting the start profile. At the level of the future plinth or at ground level (if the plinth is not provided), we mount the starting profile, the width of which corresponds to the width of the insulation used.
We set the profile strictly according to the level, fixing it with anchors to the supporting structure.
Glue mixing. Pour the adhesive composition for polystyrene / polystyrene into water and mix with a mixer until a homogeneous mass is formed.
Then we keep the glue solution for at least 5 minutes and mix again, completely eliminating lumps.
If the glue has thickened, we “reanimate” it only by intensive mixing. Under no circumstances should water be added!
Slab cutting. We cut the foam boards to size using a sharp knife or a saw with fine teeth.
When trimming, we try to cut the slabs so that the number of joints is minimal.
Application of glue (for uneven walls). Apply a bead of glue approximately 5 cm wide around the perimeter of the foam panel.
Small slides are symmetrically arranged in a free area.
In total, adhesive areas should occupy about 30-40% of the entire plate.
Application of glue (for smooth walls). The glue is evenly distributed over the surface of the plate with a notched trowel. The layer thickness should be about 20-30 mm.
Styrofoam bonding. We apply the plate with the applied adhesive composition to the surface of the wall, level it and press it.
Hold the insulation for about a minute until the glue sets.
Seam filling. Voids larger than 20 mm are filled with plates and wedges cut from the insulation.
We blow low-modulus polyurethane foam into small gaps.
Surface grinding. Using a special grater, we process the surface of the foam to give it a roughness. Such processing will facilitate further finishing of the insulated wall.
Anchor drilling. Using a drill on concrete or brick, we drill holes for the installation of mechanical fasteners.
As a rule, the plate is fixed in the corners and in the center - this ensures sufficient fixation strength.
We select the length of the drill in such a way that it can pass the heat-insulating layer and penetrate into the base by about 60 mm.
Mechanical fixation. We insert plastic dish-shaped dowels into the drilled holes.
We fix each dowel with a nail or locking screw.
We embed the dowel caps into the foam by about 1-2 mm.
Strengthening corners. At the corners, joints of planes and other areas we glue protective pads made of perforated metal. Some will protect the foam and finish from damage during mechanical stress.
When gluing, we sink the perforation and the mesh along the edges of the corner into the adhesive solution, after which we level the corner with a spatula.
Gluing plaster mesh. We apply an adhesive solution to the surface of the foam. We lay a plaster mesh on it and drown it with a spatula - so that the composition comes out in the cells.
We smooth the surface, completely hiding the grid.
Surface leveling. If necessary, we apply an additional layer of mortar on top of the mesh, which we first level with a spatula, and then with a plaster trowel.
After the initial drying, we overwrite the putty, preparing the surface for decorative finishing.
Conclusion
Now you are convinced that the good performance properties of polystyrene, together with low cost, make it one of the best options for facade insulation. In addition, the simple foam mounting technology, which is clearly shown in the video in this article, will be easy to perform even for beginners.
Do you have any questions? Feel free to ask them in the comments!
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