A small extension to the country house with their own hands. Extension to a wooden house: projects, building technologies, choosing the best option

To increase the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house due to such an addition as a frame extension (or several extensions), two options can be used: frame-panel construction or frame-frame assembly. The difference between them is clearly visible in various photos describing the technology of installation and construction of extensions.

In the first case, finished panels with door and window openings are assembled on site into a single structure. You must first coordinate the projects with the manufacturer, make the foundation exactly in size, and then make the roof. Such an addition will not add beauty to a log house, but it is quite suitable for a stone or brick house.

The second option is more often chosen for a veranda or small outbuildings to the house, planning to do most of the work with your own hands. Frame extensions of this type leave the owner complete freedom in choosing sizes, materials, terms, etc.

The frame box is easier to attach to the main house, brick or log, it is easier to adjust its dimensions so that the structure sits exactly on the foundation. The ability to do the necessary projects yourself and then build a small frame house economically and with your own hands gives the idea an additional advantage.

Step-by-step instructions help to take into account all the important points of the future construction and distribute the work in stages, as well as control the correctness of the work - preparatory, construction and finishing.

Tools and materials

• Electric: electric saw, electric drill, grinder, electric screwdriver.
• Other tools: shovel, axe, hammer, sledgehammer, building level.

Prepare the necessary materials, check their quantity and purchase the necessary:

1. Wood: cut boards (for stuffing battens), slats (for roof construction on the surface of the roof slope), wood shields (you can buy ready-made or do it yourself), wooden wedges.
2. Foundation: gravel (crushed stone), broken brick, concrete mixture, hot bitumen.
3. Other: steel angle, nails, screws, cord, dry tow (jute), gypsum mortar.

Plan your plot

Prepare for construction work the site selected for the extension. Take enough time to make high-quality measurements and calculations, draw up projects for each stage of work (foundation, frame structure of the extension, roof) or one general one, and also mark the ground. Take a photo as a memory of the house without an extension and get to work.

Build a Foundation

To build a strip foundation with your own hands, dig a trench of the planned depth and width according to the marked marks. Fill in and evenly distribute the sand-gravel pillow along the bottom and lay the reinforcing cage on top.

Install formwork in the trench. Prepare a concrete mortar from crushed granite (5 parts), sand (3 parts) and cement (1 part) and fill the formwork with it.

The setting time of the solution is determined by the manufacturer's instructions for the selected cement, adjusted for temperature and weather conditions. Wait until the foundation is completely dry. Loose or clayey soils under the frame extension will require additional shrinkage time.

Different projects provide for different ways to combine the foundation on which the house stands, and the new foundation adjacent to it, which carries the frame building. Therefore, when arranging formwork for a strip foundation, be sure to provide for a expansion joint at the point where the extension is attached to the house. In this way, the base and walls of the veranda are protected from the formation of cracks during seasonal soil movements.

The construction of the foundation may include the installation of supports under the floor logs. Mark a distance of 1.3-1.5 m to make markings for the pits for the supports. It is enough to leave a gap of 0.9 m between the lags. Dig holes and cover the bottom with a layer of sand (at least 0.1 m).

For waterproofing, wrap all surfaces of the base with roofing material (rubemast) in two layers. After that, you need to make a mortar and fill the pits with the supports installed in them with concrete. The foundation will harden and securely fix the supports.

Mount the strapping bar

Lay the strapping beam around the entire perimeter. The construction of the veranda provides for the thickness of the timber used at least 0.15 m for sufficient thermal insulation, although the standard allows 0.1-0.2 m. Treat the lower beam with a suitable antiseptic. When carrying out work with your own hands, you can even use used car oil, which in its properties is often not inferior to many special tools. Make the fastening at the corners half a tree (another term is “in the paw”) and align the harness with a level.

Choose floor material: wood or concrete

Consider and decide which floor for the veranda to give preference to - wooden or concrete, projects can be very different. Start building with subflooring. Lay a cranial bar 5.0x5.0 cm on the sides of the genital lags, and lay edged boards on it. Cover the boards with two layers of glassine, laying insulation between them. Completing the construction of the floor, lay a fine one on top of the subfloor.

For wooden floors, a good option would be a milled board, convenient for ventilation and air circulation, as well as tongue-and-groove seam boards, which are laid taking into account the multidirectional annual rings on the wood.
The concrete floor is made in layers: insulation, insulation and concrete screed.

If the extension is planned as a living space, install a "warm floor" system - electric or water. As a floor covering for an extension, linoleum, laminate, tile, panel parquet board or parquet are suitable.

Assemble the frame

Dry all parts well and treat each with flame retardant impregnation and bioprotective against insects. Assembling the frame with your own hands should be consistent and accurate. Install the corner posts using a 0.15x0.15m beam as the most suitable.

Using a plumb or level, make sure that they are in the correct vertical position and, using improvised boards, temporarily fix the racks with technological braces. Racks adjacent to the house must be made below the roof overhang. The outdoor studs should be even lower in height to provide sufficient slope for the porch roof.

Along the entire frame perimeter of the extension, install additional racks at a distance of 0.9-1.0 m from each other. Strengthen the corner posts with inclined braces (standard angle 45˚), and dismantle the technological braces. Throw a ceiling strapping crown made of 150x50 edged boards on top of the racks.

In order for the frame structure to be strong and stable, a sufficient step for vertical racks will be 0.6 m (if you plan to use mineral insulation), and 1.0 m for horizontal jumpers. Hardware fasteners will give the wooden box of the veranda additional strength.

Mark the openings for doors and windows with boards. Using a level and plumb line, make sure the horizontal and vertical surfaces are accurate.

Set up the walls

After assembling the frame, insulate the walls so that the extension is comfortable for living. Even for a veranda, the issue of hydro and vapor barrier should not be ignored. Insulation glassine or foam insulation with the mirror side in the direction of the expected appearance of moisture and secure with long self-tapping screws. You can insulate the ceiling of the veranda with expanded clay, pouring a layer of 10-12 cm on top.

Mineral plates, expanded polystyrene, liquid ecowool insulation and even sawdust are also successfully used as temperature controllers, and traditional roofing felt or the same glassine is allowed to be used for wind protection.

Perform rough wall cladding using DSP, OSB or LSU sheets. This shield gasket has the advantages of a one-piece cover. An economical option for the outer cladding of the veranda can be an edged board "25", and from the inside it is better to finish the house with a clapboard that will last for several decades.

The walls of the veranda should be a “pie” with alternating inner lining, an air gap of 1-2 cm, vapor barrier, insulation layer, wind insulation and exterior finish. Pay special attention to places where the edges of the frame walls adjoin the house.

Use in such places jute (hemp or linen, but without felt, so that moths do not start) or liquid heaters in the form of hardening foam.
Install doors, windows, window sills, skirting boards, platbands, etc., glaze windows, varnish or paint wooden surfaces.

Assembling the truss system

Lay rafter boards on the top strapping crown. Install the boards on the edge with a 0.3 m outlet and sheathe them with battens 2.5-3.5 cm thick. To protect the wooden base from moisture, lay one layer of glassine, laying it with an overlap of 5-7 cm. Such a precaution will protect the roof in case of leakage of the outer roofing.

Roof

The roof on the frame extension can be brought under a common roof with the main house, or it can be made separate. Having chosen the material for the roof, calculate the required amount with a small margin (up to 5%), always taking into account the necessary overlap.

Bend the apron at an angle corresponding to the slope of the roof. One side of the apron comes with a roof overhang and is fixed, and the second is laid on the roof of the extension and is also attached. Take the time to review the photos and videos that describe this important step in the editing process.

The need for an extension to the house arises in case of a lack of usable area of ​​​​the building or to increase the comfort of living. An extension to a brick house can serve as a gazebo or terrace, while at the same time assuming a lot of convenient solutions. And a small insulated building in the cold season acts as a kind of vestibule that prevents the penetration of cold into the living quarters. Many are beginning to think about how to make an extension to a brick house with their own hands.

The design of a house adjoining building begins with determining its size and location. Usually the veranda adjoins the front door of the house, thereby being to some extent its continuation. However, an extension can also be erected against a blank wall, acting as an independent separate building.

In order not to bother with calculations, you can rely on already known data - for a small family, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe object is approximately 12 square meters. m. Everything else depends on the configuration of the house itself and the imagination of its owner.

Before starting the marking, the land plot is prepared - it is cleaned of grass, possible debris, it is recommended to remove a small layer of soil over the entire area. The territory is marked for the foundation, which can be tape or columnar, pegs are driven in at the corners of the building under construction, between which a building cord is pulled.

Strip foundation

The trench for the strip foundation is carried out along the width of the bearing walls or 5-10 wider. To avoid seepage of concrete into the ground, formwork is installed inside the trench from unnecessary material, which is “buried” in the ground.

Above the pit, a formwork of even boards is also installed and leveled in a horizontal plane with a level or hydraulic level.

The height of the formwork above the ground depends on your idea and lies in the range of 10-30 cm. If it is decided to lay the first rows of red brick in the form of a plinth, then the height of the boards can be minimized or completely dispensed with the upper formwork.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.

A reinforcing belt is laid in the trench, which, ideally, is pre-knitted on the surface. Soft knitting wire is used, the reinforcement spacing is 15–25 cm.

After the frame is formed, the prepared structure is poured with concrete. For a reliable and strong base, the solution is prepared in the proportion: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand, 4 parts of crushed stone.

It is poured in layers, each next layer is rammed with a metal or wooden rod (rod).

The foundation is left alone for 1 week in the warm season, and from 3 to 6 weeks in the cold. If the work is carried out in the summer, then the concrete base is poured with water 2-3 times a day to provide for the appearance of cracks.

Pillar foundation for an extension to a brick house

A simple solution for a small building is to use a columnar foundation. It implies the installation of pillars in the ground in qualitylower frame, on which the main structure will be installed. As columns use:

• metal pipes;
• asbestos pipes;
• logs.

Regardless of the material chosen, markings for future bases are performed at the corners of the foundation and between them, if the area allows. The distance between adjacent supports is 1.5 to 2 m.

The technology of erecting a columnar foundation

1. Pillows of sand 10 cm high are poured into the prepared pits and carefully tamped.
2. Install corner posts in a strictly vertical position. To do this, you can use the usual building level. The distance between the lower part of the rod and the soil is covered with coarse material - rubble, broken bricks, large stones.
3. A cord is pulled between the pillars, along which the remaining (intermediate) pillars are fixed in a similar way.
4. The protruding rods are cut from above in a flat horizontal plane at a distance of 30-50 cm from the surface of the site. The operation is conveniently carried out using a hydraulic level or level. At the same time, on each pillar they make the so-called "zero mark", on the basis of which subsequent calculations and trimming are performed.
5. Pillars made of pipes are completely poured with concrete.

Construction of extension walls

The home master, at his discretion, selects wall material. It can be red or white brick, shell rock, expanded clay concrete or aerated concrete blocks. In one case or another, the technology of erection to the house and supporting structures is unchanged.

1. A waterproofing material (roofing material) is laid on the surface of the foundation.
2. Check the evenness of the surface. If necessary, it is leveled with a conventional cement-sand mortar.
3. Brick construction begins with the erection of the corner parts of the wall in one or two rows. In this case, the marking is done in such a way that the angles between the stretched cord are 90 ° everywhere. Corner blocks must be built perfectly, the evenness of the entire structure depends on them.
4. A cord is stretched between the corner "columns", along the line of which the intermediate parts of the wall structure are erected.
5. The extension being built is periodically “connected” with the main brick building. To do this, every 3-4 rows of masonry in the walls of the house, two holes are drilled with a perforator according to the level of the lined row. The diameter of the holes is selected in such a way that 30–50 cm metal rods (reinforcement or wire rod) can be driven into it with force. Thus, the walls of the veranda being built are combined with the wall of a residential building.
6. When laying the rows, you should periodically check their horizontality so that the upper final row is laid out strictly parallel to the horizon line.

Openings for windows and doors are made using a level, the upper lintel is made using a horizontally laid or steel square profile.

How to make an extension roof with your own hands

Shed roof on conventional rafters is the easiest installation option. In this case, the roofing material can be:

• slate;
• polypropylene sheets;
• double-glazed windows;
• steel sheets with sun-repellent coated.

The installation of the supporting frame is performed as follows:

1. First, the necessary calculations and drawings are performed, which determine the angle of inclination of the roof (5-10 °), the location of the rafters.
2. The timber prepared and cut to size is treated with an antiseptic and waterproofing agents.
3. The base of the wooden frame is attached to the top row of the extension. The rafter beam prepared for these purposes is marked out every 60-90 cm and fixed with anchors so that they enter the load-bearing wall by at least 50 cm. Roof truss beams are placed and fixed parallel to each other on the base every meter under the building cord . The wooden frame crate is ready.
4. The top layer of bituminous slate or other material is attached to a wooden crate according to the instructions issued by the hardware store. For slate, special slate nails with rubber seals are used to prevent moisture from entering under the roof.

transparent roof

The polycarbonate roof has some features:

1. Sheet material is attached to profiles purchased in the store: end, corner, P - and H-shaped.
2. For fastening the canvases, galvanized self-tapping screws 40–50 cm are used, equipped with thermal washers or conventional rubber seals.
3. Sheets are cut in such a way that they are joined in the middle of the rafters with an overlap of 10-15 mm. The place of such an overlap at the end of the work is hidden under a protective bar.
4. The outer edges of polycarbonate are equipped with H-profiles.
5. Sealing of joints and ends is carried out by means of finely porous flexible tapes.

The arrangement of the roof is carried out in such a way that the adjacent parts of the coating fit snugly against the wall of the house or even go under its roof. This is the only way to prevent drafts and moisture from entering the room. If desired, the roof can be made flat, pitched, arched, domed.

Roof insulation

If the extension to the brick house will be actively used in the cold season, it is recommended to insulate the roof. Mineral wool sheets are used as heat-insulating materials, which are fastened between the batten boards (logs). Modern technologies offer a new tool - sprayed polyurethane insulation, a 5-cm layer of which will reliably protect the room from heat loss through the roof.

Completion of work

At the end of the main work, the structure is inspected for the presence of possible unfilled spaces between the roof and walls, which are additionally sealed with mineral wool, mortar.

20 cm to the specified width around the entire perimeter of the veranda, install a wooden formwork 7–10 cm high with a slight slope from the wall along the outer edge of the prepared site.

To prevent flaking of the concrete platform from the extension, it is recommended to "tie" it with the main structure is a reinforcing single-layer cage. To do this, holes are drilled from the bottom of the building according to the size of the reinforcement in increments of 20-25 cm, where metal rods of a given length are hammered. The finished structure is poured with concrete mortar and allowed to “settle” for 3-5 days.

By purpose, all extensions to the house are divided into:

• living room;
• garage;
• terrace;
• summer kitchen;
• porch.

According to the type of material used, extensions are:

• frame;
• brick;
• from foam blocks;
• from a beam.

At the first stage of preparation for construction, it is necessary to decide whether the construction of a capital building is planned or not. The device of a canopy or terrace is quite possible without a project that is carried out by a specialized organization; a plan or diagram may be enough. The construction of a living room or a garage is best done using a ready-made project for an extension to a wooden house, specially designed or tied to specific conditions. Savings at this stage, as a rule, turn into additional much higher costs during construction.

Capital buildings

Room framing project

Advantages of using a frame structure:

• construction speed;
• no settlement of the structure at the first stages of operation;
• a small load on the foundation, and as a result, insignificant requirements for it;
• excellent compatibility with the wooden structures of the main private house.

The frame structure is especially suitable in the case of the construction of a two-story extension to a country house, since it is much lighter than other types of structures.

Foam block extension project

An extension of foam blocks is one of the most common options, as it simultaneously combines the relative cheapness of work and their simplicity. In addition, these are not all the advantages of using this technology.

Advantages:

• construction speed;
• durability of the structure (at least 50 years);
• a small load on the foundation (a foundation on pillars is enough instead of a tape one);
• structural strength;
• simplicity of construction technology;
• the ability of the material to "breathe".

Flaw:

• the need for exterior decoration of the facade due to the unattractive appearance of the blocks.

timber extension project

Structurally and technologically, everything that was said about frame extensions can also be attributed to timber structures. In fact, the combined version is most often used.

The main points when building an extension from a bar:

• the foundation for it should be similar to the foundation for the main building and connected to it;
• it is possible to use a more economical pile foundation, of course, in the case of a design calculation;

• it is necessary to create an expansion joint between the house and the extension, which will prevent damage to the walls during shrinkage of the new structure;

• the technology for erecting the structure of the walls and roof of the extension is similar to the technology for building a house.

Non-capital buildings

Polycarbonate Veranda

The established opinion that the veranda is a warehouse for storing unnecessary things (tools, bicycles, skis and other junk) is fundamentally wrong. In fact, this is a great opportunity to create a comfortable and beautiful recreation area. Especially if you use modern designs and materials for this.

Key points in the construction of the veranda:

• they can have almost any configuration - a rectangle, a square, a semicircle with a roof in the form of an arch;

• the lightness of the design allows its construction on a minimal foundation, for example, a strip foundation with a depth and width of only 30 cm on a sand cushion 20 cm thick;

• it is advisable to build a small base to which the frame structures are attached;
• polycarbonate itself, due to the properties of the material, is easily cut and mounted on an already assembled frame.

canopy

A canopy is constructed, as a rule, in order to protect any used space from precipitation. Thus, it is possible to equip almost the entire territory adjacent to the house for a summer dining room, playgrounds and much more.

The design of the canopy usually consists of:

• pillars dug to a depth of about 0.5 meters and filled with concrete;
• horizontal beams, and one of them must be attached to the wall of the house;

• rafters and battens on them;
• roofing material.

The existing variety of materials and various structural elements allows you to create a variety of combinations in the construction of canopies. But most often when building an extension to a wooden house, wood and metal tiles are used.

Proper construction of extensions for various purposes can not only expand the residential part of the house, but also improve its appearance and protect it from wear and tear. The construction of a veranda adjacent to the house, regardless of the type of building, requires careful project development, with the definition of materials and construction technology.

Proper execution and approval of project documentation in state institutions will not only insure against problems with the law, but also help to draw up a plan and estimate for the structure.

Design

A typical veranda is a roofed frame structure erected on a strip or column foundation, with glass or half glass walls. The statement that the veranda should be built from the same materials as the main building, with the emergence of new styles and fashion trends in architecture, has lost its relevance.

In the photos below - ready-made solutions for verandas attached to the house, with different principles of compatibility. In some cases, the new extension is made of the same materials and is completely combined with the house, in others the new one is combined with the preservation of common elements - roofs, beams, etc.

There are also projects in which the original design of the extension brings a new architectural touch, updating the exterior.

When choosing materials and construction technologies, one should also take into account the parameters of proper ventilation, moisture resistance and thermal insulation. With full glazing, it is necessary to provide opening segments for ventilation.

If an open veranda is being built, or, as it is also called, a summer terrace, you need to take care of the frost-resistant lining and tilt the floor towards the site.

Designs with removable frames are optimal for year-round use. The installation of large sliding doors will also allow the building to be used in a two-mode version.

In a typical project, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe veranda is rectangular and ranges from 10 to 15 sq.m. With smaller areas it will be too crowded, with large areas, additional reinforcement for the roof will be required. Polygonal and semi-circular foundations are also possible.

According to its location, the veranda can be corner, end or front. An original solution can be considered the construction of a terrace around the entire perimeter of the house, which can have glazed, open and closed areas for various purposes: they can accommodate an entrance hall, a recreation area, and a large pantry.

Foundation

The foundation of terraces and verandas attached to the house should fit snugly against the main building, but at the same time have independent supports.

The strip foundation is suitable for large and heavy structures; in all other cases, a columnar foundation can be erected. When pouring concrete, you need to leave a gap of 3-4 cm with the main wall, which will subsequently be filled with waterproofing foam.

At the first stage of preparation for construction, the soil is cleared and compacted. Then, corner holes are dug for the pillars along the depth of the foundation of the house (about 1 m on average), a pillow is made of crushed stone, gravel and sand, on which concrete is poured.

After setting, supports are inserted from asbestos or metal pipes. Concrete poles or bricks may also be used. The same method is used to lay high piles for buildings adjacent to the level of the second floor.

Depending on the area and weight of the terrace, intermediate posts may be needed, installed every half a meter.

For a tape-type foundation, a trench of 30-50 cm breaks through, the formwork is laid 15-20 cm higher. Metal reinforcement bars or reinforcing mesh are embedded in the soil. Concrete is poured onto a layer of crushed stone and sand.

Wooden frame

The frame is mounted from beams or logs with a width of at least 12 cm, which are covered with a waterproofing layer. For the strength of horizontal knitting, experts recommend using fasteners in the foot, while the connection surface will be at an angle. Vertical racks are fixed with diagonal interceptions.

At the final stage, the wooden frame is covered with rafters for the roof. For cladding, you can use plywood panels, chipboard boards, etc.

The construction of a wooden veranda is the best budget solution for the prices of materials, but when choosing this type of building, you need a professional approach and knowledge of the nuances of building from a wooden bar.

Other materials for verandas

The construction of foam blocks is being built on a strip foundation. It is easy to make such a masonry yourself. Laying is carried out with the help of special glue, with dressing of seams for strength.

When finishing, an internal and external waterproofing layer is provided, finishing with drywall, wooden panels, moisture-resistant wallpaper and paints. The outer surface can be lined with ventilated facades.

Polycarbonate structure construction, modern and attractive option. This material is well combined in buildings with a wooden and brick frame.

For a building that consists entirely of bicarbonate shields, no foundation is needed. The earth can simply be compacted and covered with paving slabs.

The design is created using aluminum profiles, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of ventilation and water drainage. Polycarbonate panels and frames of various types can be customized for specific needs for lighting and thermal insulation.

Before you attach a veranda to the house, you need to decide on the functions that it will perform. In addition to the drainage and ventilation systems necessary in any case, the correct connection to the capital structure and the roof structure, the schedule for using this part of the house is important.

The design and construction of summer verandas differs from the requirements for premises with year-round operation. It is also important to note that any extension will require the same care and renovation as permanent buildings.

Photo of the veranda attached to the house

You can inexpensively and quickly increase the living space of the house with the help of a frame extension to the house. Why is this particular type of extension popular today? Their main feature is a number of advantages, such as:

• low cost of building materials;
• high speed of construction;
• complete absence of shrinkage, unlike other designs;
• minimum .

Frame extensions to the house - an excellent solution for houses with a small living space

A frame extension to a wooden house will allow you to change its architecture. This type implies the presence of a supporting skeleton or from a trimmed beam, from which the lower trim and corner post are actually made.

When the supporting skeleton is fully assembled, the terrace must be insulated and rough cladding must be made (CSB with sheets, LSU or OSB). Only after the rough sheathing can you proceed to the finishing of the terrace.

Excellent performance is inherent in this type of extensions, since they give off heat very slowly, so that such an extension can be heated quickly and easily.

Its decoration can be carried out only after the completion of construction, and at the same time, construction can be carried out at any time of the year.

If necessary, over time, changing the finish of such a terrace will be much easier than with conventional classical construction.

However, when building such a terrace, all points must be taken into account. To avoid over time the appearance of cracks and deformation of the extension, it is necessary to correctly place the expansion joints. What are expansion joints? An expansion joint is a joint that cuts the building from top to bottom. Such a seam allows some parts of the building to settle independently in a vertical position.

frame extension to the house
house extension project

To avoid the destruction of the outbuilding, it is necessary during its construction to separate the outbuilding with the help of sedimentary seams (2 cm slots), which should start from the bottom and go to the roof, and so on between all parts of the building. Subsequently, these gaps are filled with polystyrene foam, plastic bituminous, silicone or acrylic mass and elastic bands.

How to choose the right house extension project?

The terrace should complement the overall picture of the house, and not look like a separate element. Therefore, before you give preference to one project, you must fully think it over. The terrace should be spacious, but at the same time it cannot occupy more than 20% of the house itself.

If the house is built in a classical style, then the house should also be of the usual classical form, so that it complements the house and creates a single whole with it.

Frame panels are able to create a "thermos effect", in which heat, unlike ordinary brick walls, lasts seven times longer.

Frame projects of extensions to the house have become popular due to their low cost and ease of installation.

The main bearing function with this frame technology falls on, and various types of thermal insulation and cladding "take on" the task of protecting the structure from external harmful effects and suppresses thermal insulation and external noise.

With the lateral extension of the house, special attention should be paid to protecting the old part of the building. When designing a new extension to the house, you need to pay attention to the fact that the load-bearing walls are perpendicular to the previously built part of the house.

When extending the outbuilding, the distance from the old foundation to the new one can be several meters. In this case, the floors must be installed so that they are closer to the old structure, but at the same time they should not rest on the old walls.

You can even connect two structures - the main part of the house with an extension in an atypical way, for example, lean the floor slab on two walls - the old and the new. However, this must be done carefully so that, as a result, the walls have the possibility of small movements during the subsidence of the foundation.

Any terrace, chosen wisely and done correctly, can decorate the house and give it completeness. However, the main rule when choosing an extension is that it must necessarily be combined with the style of the house and be no more than 20% of its total living area in size.