How much does a one-story house made of aerated concrete cost. "apartment in nature" - do-it-yourself one-story house made of aerated concrete

Today such construction material, as gas silicate blocks, is no longer uncommon. Designing houses from aerated concrete is enough a large number of various companies. The construction of a house from this material is carried out in a fairly short time, while the output is a building with excellent characteristics. Aerated concrete is also used in private construction, and quite widely.

A house made of aerated concrete blocks is being built in short time, but at the same time it turns out a building with excellent characteristics.

Construction stages

To work with aerated concrete, you will need: a drill for mixing cement mortar; trowels; a hammer; level and plumb; saw with large teeth; grater; various containers.

So to build yourself cottage from aerated concrete, it is necessary to sequentially perform many stages, from choosing a place to finishing work.

You should focus on two main ones:

• foundation device;
• direct work with aerated concrete.

To work with this material, you may need the following tools:

• drill for mixing cement mortar;
• trowels;
• a hammer;
• level and plumb;
• saw with large teeth;
• grater;
• various containers and some other tools.

Foundation construction

Most suitable for a house made of aerated concrete strip foundation. However, for this foundation there must be appropriate soil.

Beacon blocks are stacked in such a way that further erected walls are either flush with the foundation or overhanging it. In this case, the thickness of all finishing materials and for the base itself, that is, the foundation, and for the walls.

Most the best option it is considered the one when the walls hang over the foundation. In this case, all rain and melt water will flow down the walls to the ground or blind area, while the foundation will remain dry. The size of the protrusion can vary from 5 cm up to several tens.

All four beacon blocks are placed on cement mortar. If during the measurement process it turned out that there is a height difference in different angles Well, now is the perfect time to fix it. This can be done by reducing or increasing the thickness of the seam. Minimum value considered 2 cm.

So that the blocks do not absorb moisture from the mortar very much, thereby deteriorating its strength, it is required to apply to the places of contact with the cement mortar before working directly with it. a small amount of water.

After laying the corner blocks of aerated concrete, you can start laying all the other blocks of the first row. To do this, at the corners, that is, to aerated concrete with outer side, a cord is attached, which should touch the two corner elements. All other elements are laid out along this cord.

If the distance between the corners is large, then it is recommended to lay another beacon in the middle of the wall of the house.

During the laying process, the evenness of the blocks in the vertical plane will be regulated by a stretched cord. But it is necessary to control the evenness of the blocks in height using a level. If necessary, you can put more mortar under the aerated concrete or, conversely, lower the block with a rubber mallet.

It often happens that the wall of the house along the length cannot accommodate an even number of blocks. Gotta pick up a piece right size. To , it is enough to use with a regular hacksaw on wood.

Thus, the entire first row is laid out, after which its evenness is checked again, and in all possible projections.

The laying of aerated concrete blocks is best done with dressing of vertical seams in half of the block.

After that, you can start laying the second and subsequent rows. It should be noted that it is no different from laying ordinary bricks. In this case, it is better to perform it with dressing of vertical seams in half of the block.

It is also better to start laying the second and subsequent rows from the corners. Moreover, you can immediately lay out the corner of the second and third rows, and then fill the space between them. During the laying process, the evenness of both the walls of the house and its corners should be constantly monitored. The verticality of the corners can be controlled with a plumb line.

A special point is the removal of door and window niches. If there are any in the wall, then you can start laying from the nearest corner in the direction and from the opening itself, that is, as if taking it by the opposite corner. The same applies to the subsequent laying of blocks with niches under the windows.

On the top row each such niche should have a jumper, which can be made of reinforced concrete or even iron.

Solution for work

Aerated concrete blocks are placed on a sand-cement mortar. It is prepared using cement grade M400 and higher. A ratio of 1:3 is used, that is, 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand, 1:4 can be used. Instead of water, you can use clay "milk", that is, water infused on clay.

Modern materials and technologies make it possible to build comfortable and beautiful cottages at minimal cost time and money. One of the most popular new building materials is universal aerated concrete. A one-story aerated concrete house can be of any size and in any style. It can be single-level, with a basement or with an attic. At the same time, it combines all the best characteristics of wooden and stone buildings.

What is aerated concrete

Aerated concrete is manufactured under production conditions and is put on sale in the form of overall wall blocks. The main components in its composition are quartz sand, cement, water and lime. To form a porous structure, aluminum paste is added to the raw composition, which reacts with lime and “foams” the mixture. The result is a material uniformly filled with fine pores. Ready mix after hardening, it is cut into separate blocks, after which it is processed in an autoclave oven.

Advantages

This material has many advantages:

Environmental friendliness. The composition of aerated concrete does not include harmful chemical elements. accommodation in aerated concrete house with quality finish absolutely safe for health.

fire resistance. At its core, aerated concrete is artificial stone, and has the same high fire resistance.

Low thermal conductivity. The air filling the pores in gas blocks does not conduct heat. Therefore, aerated concrete walls keep the temperature of the house well, both during heating period as well as during the summer heat.

Light weight. Due to the presence of pores, gas blocks are very light. With their large size, they fit without the use of special equipment. The lightness of the material allows you to build houses quickly enough, and on lightweight foundations.

Vapor permeability. This property of aerated concrete makes it similar to wood. Just like wood, gas blocks allow air to pass through, providing rooms with natural self-ventilation. It is worth noting here that wood building materials must be processed chemical compounds to protect against moisture, fungus and insects, resulting in environmental friendliness wooden cottages decreases. Aerated concrete does not need such processing.

Frost resistance. Aerated concrete blocks protected from moisture exterior finish, can withstand at least 35 freeze-thaw cycles. This means that only a few decades later aerated concrete wall theoretically, destruction processes can begin.

Ease of processing. Aerated concrete blocks are easy to saw. Thanks to this quality, it is possible not only to equip openings, corners and other architectural elements of buildings without problems, but also to use in design complex shapes facades and rooms.

Price. Aerated concrete belongs to economical materials with an optimal price-quality ratio.

On our website you can see the most popular projects from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-rise Country".

disadvantages

The material also has its drawbacks. They are not critical, but they must be taken into account when creating projects.

Waterproofing. Aerated concrete due to porosity can absorb moisture. This means that the outer walls of the cottages should be covered with a waterproofing finish. At the same time, the finish must be vapor-permeable, otherwise it will negate the vapor permeability of the aerated concrete itself.

Strength. There are several brands of gas blocks, differing in density, and, accordingly, in the degree of strength. But even the most durable aerated concrete is not used in the construction of buildings above three floors. In addition, in many cases, designers provide for strengthening aerated concrete building reinforcing or other reinforcing system.

fragility. Low bending resistance requires a careful approach when calculating the foundation. If the building is subjected to strong vibration, its walls may crack. In addition, gas blocks must be properly transported so that they do not break along the way.

Design of houses from aerated concrete

Development of architectural documentation for construction aerated concrete house carried out by specialists who are well aware of all the characteristics of this material. It is very important to choose the right brand of blocks for construction bearing walls, enclosing walls and partitions. The indicators of thermal conductivity and strength of porous concrete are interrelated. The higher the density of the material, the smaller the pores in it, and the stronger it is. But at the same time, its thermal insulation characteristics are reduced. The designer needs to correctly calculate everything so that the house turns out to be both reliable and warm.

Another important point in design, this is the correct calculation of the foundation. It should not turn out to be too expensive, since lightweight concrete does not require an expensive reinforced base, and this is one of its important advantages. But also simple lungs foundation options for aerated concrete houses don't fit either.

In terms of architectural and design solutions, the design of aerated concrete houses is practically unlimited. From this material can be built as simple economical houses square shape, as well as complex buildings with arches, bay windows, non-standard openings, etc.

The advantage of one-story houses

Aerated concrete is often used in construction one-story houses. One-level buildings can be erected without strengthening the walls, and this has a positive effect on the cost of construction. Besides, in one-storey cottages can be arranged to the maximum convenient layout with access from the living rooms to the terrace or courtyard.

If you need to get a spacious house on small area, you can build one-story building with attic. In the attic, a sleeping area is usually equipped. Unlike a full-fledged second floor, the attic adds less load to the floors and foundations, and is cheaper in construction. In addition, the rooms in the attic have an original and cozy design, and the silhouette mansard house looks more elegant and solid.

Turnkey construction

Residents of Moscow and the Moscow region increasingly prefer to build country cottages and country houses from aerated concrete. Many metropolitan companies build high-quality turnkey one-story aerated concrete houses, the projects and prices of which can be viewed on our website. A professional construction organization will build a small but very comfortable cottage for about 2 million rubles. The main advantage of turnkey construction is that after completion of all stages (from design to finishing), the owners just have to bring their furniture and move into the house.

House projects

Choice is currently finished projects single-storey houses made of aerated concrete is huge. In order to simplify the process of choosing the desired architectural design, you should conditionally divide them into several main categories, and search among suitable options. Such houses can be:

with an attic;

with basement;

with attached garage;

with a terrace.

Video description

The project of a one-story aerated concrete house with an attic

Basement buildings are much more expensive to build. Their construction is justified only in cases where small plot you need to fit a full housing. At the same time, the technical zone of the house is usually placed in the basement.

The attic allows you to increase the living space of the cottage. But here it must be borne in mind that the placement of the stairs takes up a lot of space, both on the first and second levels of the building. Therefore, it is not always advisable to build small houses with an attic floor.

An attached garage and a terrace are elements that increase the comfort of the home. If the future homeowner has a limited construction budget, he can build a simple residential building first, and build useful extensions later. But such intentions must be taken into account immediately, even at the stage of choosing a project.

Video description

Aerated concrete one-story house with a garage

Project of a one-story house with three rooms

This architectural development is ideal for the construction of a country cottage, which will accommodate a small family of 3-4 people. A vestibule is provided here, protecting the premises from drafts and dust from the street. The sleeping quarters are united in the left wing of the building. The right wing is reserved for the zone general purpose. Work zone The kitchen is illuminated by a corner window. From the living room with fireplace, you can access small terrace or small balcony.

Project of a house with a garage and a terrace

Cottage with attached garage. This project one-story house from aerated concrete differs from the previous one not only in the expanded composition of the premises, but also in the principle of zoning. Here, the bedrooms are not grouped in one part of the building, but are distributed in a certain way. In the bedrooms, separated by a vestibule and bathrooms, adult family members can be accommodated and feel quite secluded. Two living rooms, which are adjacent to each other, can become children's.

The garage does not have an internal entrance to the house, which meets the requirements of homeowners who especially appreciate the security of the residential area. Additional "bonuses" of the project - 2 bathrooms, a boiler room in the garage, a wide porch that can be used as a second terrace.

Attic house project

Ladies with attics have their own zoning scheme, which is used in most cases. All bedrooms are located in the attic, and day rooms are on the ground floor. In this option, the kitchen is planned as a separate room, and the dining room has a place in the living room. This is a budget house, as it has a simple layout without frills. In addition, it is rectangular in plan, and the lighting of the upper rooms is carried out through front windows, which are much cheaper than attic windows.

Architectural design of an aerated concrete house with an attic

The project of an aerated concrete house with an attic - the layout of the first floor

Aerated concrete house project with an attic - layout attic floor

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular from the construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses Low-Rise Country.

Conclusion

own country cottage in an ecological and picturesque location, this is the ideal home for any family. Today, in order to get such housing, it is not necessary to have huge funds and wait for years for the completion of construction. It is enough to order the turnkey construction of a one-story aerated concrete house, the price of which will be quite affordable for people with average incomes.

Our company is ready to offer its customers the construction of comfortable and energy efficient houses from aerated concrete blocks. This building material will provide you reliable building with a comfortable microclimate in any season.

In the catalog that we have presented on the site, there are many projects (standard and original) that meet a wide range of prices. Here you can find ready-made inexpensive standard projects houses, during the construction of which aerated concrete will be used, or take the opportunity to order an author's project of a house. Distinctive feature planning projects of houses from aerated concrete blocks - functionality, ergonomics and comfort.

Material Features

The demand for aerated concrete is explained by its irreplaceable quality - low thermal conductivity. The low weight of aerated concrete compared to others traditional materials makes it possible to save money on the construction of the foundation - it is enough to make it easier and reduce the cost. Natural components of this material provide its ecological purity.

Components for the manufacture of aerated concrete - water, lime, quartz sand, a small amount of cement. Mixing, they become a homogeneous mass. The material receives porosity from the interaction of lime and aluminum paste. It should be emphasized that the use of aluminum paste does not pose a threat to human health, because it is used in the manufacture of dishes and packaging for food packaging. Living in such a house is safe.

Features of material manufacturing technology

Aerated concrete is made using the autoclave processing method. Blocks are formed from the mixture, then they are affected high temperature(190 o C) and pressure for 12 hours. This treatment gives the product strength and minimizes the possibility of cracking.

Aerated concrete is characterized by a uniform composition and properties, so an aerated concrete one-story house is durable and reliable.

Projects of aerated concrete one-story houses

The ability to manufacture gas blocks with precise geometric characteristics gives them great advantage. When laying, this allows you to replace conventional solutions with adhesive ones, while the seams are equal to one to three millimeters. This technology leads to a reduction masonry joints and provides heat inside a one-story aerated concrete house.

The projects of one-story buildings provide for the features of aerated concrete, the result is a strong and beautiful modern cottage. With the help of our projects, the photos of which can be found on the site, you can make your dream of a warm aerated concrete house a reality. All projects can be adjusted according to the client's order.

Building a house from aerated concrete is not exactly an easy undertaking, but compared to brick or the same log house, much less effort will have to be applied. We will build a simple one-story house on a strip foundation.

If you wish, you can change the characteristics of the building at your discretion - you just need to master the procedure for laying out the walls, all other activities are carried out as standard for houses made of any materials.

1. Band-saw.
2. Drill.
3. Hand saw.
4. Manual wall chaser.
5. Mixer.
6. Electromill.
7. Scraper bucket.
8. Glue cartons.
9. Toothed trowel.
10. Rubber mallet.
11. Grinding grater (board).

We make the foundation

We mark the site

We remove everything that interferes with the site, clear it and proceed to marking. For this we use reinforcing bars and a rope.

We determine the axis of the future structure. We take a plumb line and outline the first corner of the foundation. Perpendicular to it, we pull the rope to the second and third corners of the building.

Mark the 4th corner with a square. We measure the diagonals. If the length is the same, everything is fine, the corners are the same, you can hammer in the rods and pull the rope.

Similarly, we carry out internal marking of the base, departing from the outer order of 400 mm ( optimal value width for the strip foundation).

We dig trenches around the perimeter of the house and under the future internal walls.

We prepare trenches

Find the lowest point on the site. From here we count the depth of the pit. Small house can be built on a 40 cm tape. For the rest, be guided by the design features and the site as a whole (freezing depth, groundwater level).

swarm trench

Important! The walls of the pit should be vertical, and the bottom should be even. We check this with a plumb line and level.

We lay a pillow of sand on the bottom of the pit and carefully tamp it down. Such a pillow will contribute to an even distribution of the load on the base in the off-season. The recommended thickness is from 15 cm.

We pour gravel on the sand and lay the roofing material.

We install the formwork

We collect it from boards, plywood and others similar materials. We fasten the formwork elements with nails or screws.

Important! We make the formwork in such a way that it rises above the ground level by at least 300 mm.

Along the inner perimeter of the formwork, we stretch the fishing line at the level of the upper edge of the future fill.

At the same stage, we think over the arrangement of openings for the input of water supply and sewerage. To do this, we lay empty pipes in the right places and fill them with sand.

We lay reinforcement

We take rods with a diameter of 12-14 m. We tie them into a net using a flexible steel wire. Grid cells can have different size. The heavier the house, the smaller the side of the square should be. Most often, the power of the grid with cells of 20x20 cm is sufficient.

We make a grid according to the size of the trench. Important! We leave 5 cm indents between the laid reinforcing layer, the walls and the top of the trench, so that in the future all the reinforcement is guaranteed to be filled with concrete.

Pouring concrete

We multiply the width of the foundation by its length and height and determine the required volume of concrete. Cooking or ordering the mixture. For cooking, we use a standard recipe:

• cement - 1 part;
• gravel - 5 parts;
• sand - 3 parts;
• water - to the desired consistency.

We fill concrete mortar in uniform layers of approximately 200 mm, do not rush. We tamp each layer of filling with a wooden tamper. We pour concrete to the level of the previously stretched rope in the formwork space.

We level the surface of the pour with a trowel and pierce the concrete with reinforcement in several places. Outside, carefully tap the formwork with a wooden mallet.

We give the foundation a month to set strength. During this time, we cover the structure with polyethylene to protect it from precipitation, and in hot weather flush with water to prevent cracking.

We build walls

For construction in this example, we use blocks with a tongue-and-groove structure. They are simply more comfortable to wear by hand. You can build from any other gas blocks - the order of work does not change.

Pre-cleaning upper part dry foundation from existing dirt and dust, and then cover it with a layer of roofing material.

For luggage of the first row, we use a cement-sand mortar. It dries longer than special glue, and we will have the opportunity to adjust the evenness of the laying of the row. Minimum Thickness layer - 10 mm. There are no maximum restrictions. This will allow you to equalize the differences in height without much effort.

We find the highest angle - we will build from it. We take a fishing line and outline the wall of the house. We lay the first gas block. Then we set a block for each remaining corner and pull the rope between the building elements.

Be sure to check the evenness of the laying of each block. We lay out the first row of blocks around the perimeter of the house and in the places of construction of internal walls.

Important! Remember the doorways. We skip them, of course.

We take polishing and carefully grind the surface of the starting row. Further, we will do this with each stacked row. Thanks to this processing, we will be able to apply the glue as evenly as possible.

We put the second, and after it the third rows. We use special glue for laying gas blocks. We work, as on the first row, starting from the corners. We bind the rows, shifting by half the block - like brickwork. Minimum permissible value such a shift when laying aerated concrete - 80 mm.

To apply glue, we use buckets with cloves. We set the blocks as close to each other as possible, as far as the fingers allow, and move them back to back. We check the evenness of the masonry with a level. If necessary, align the blocks with a rubber mallet. We work quickly and harmoniously, because the glue dries very quickly and it will be almost impossible to move the gas block.

Helpful advice! If, when laying the opening, it was not possible to get into the length of the whole gas block, we saw off the excess with a special saw or a simple hacksaw for wood.

Armopoyas interfloor. A photo

We equip windows and window sills

In this example, the window sills have a height of 4 rows of masonry. We reinforce window openings after laying out the 3rd row. A shredder will help us with this.

In the place of arranging the window opening, strobe 2 parallel lines. In length, they should extend beyond the boundaries of the window by 300 mm from each side.

We put reinforcement bars in the strobes and fix them cement-sand mortar. Ready! The wall for installing the window is reinforced.

Important! It is better not to lay openings for installing windows. Of course, in the future they can be cut out, but this is a waste of time and effort.

Wall laying. In the photo, simultaneously with the laying of the walls, decorative cladding brick

Making jumpers

Gradually we approached the jumpers. These structures are needed to strengthen the section of the wall above the door and window openings. Without jumpers, the structure can simply collapse.

Then the "non-removable formwork" of three rows of blocks:
1. Outside block 150 thick;
2. in the center of the block 150 thick sawn lengthwise in half;
3. From inside the block 100 mm thick.

We cut “squares” out of it, we tie reinforcing bars to them

You can either use ready-made U-shaped blocks (we glue them to the required length, install them, put reinforcement and fill them with cement mortar) or make the formwork on our own.

For the manufacture of formwork, it is most convenient to use gas blocks 10 cm wide. Blocks are fastened with glue. If it is not possible to buy 10-centimeter blocks, we simply cut an ordinary gas block into 3 identical pieces.

We glue the blocks to the required length, make 3 longitudinal ditches with a wall chaser, put reinforcing bars in them, pour the cement mortar and give it a day to dry.

Jumpers are installed with the armature side down. We fill the gaps with gas blocks, if necessary, pre-cut to the desired size.

We make an armored belt

After arranging a row with window lintels, we proceed to pouring the armored belt, also known as the seismic belt. The structure is made of reinforced concrete and ensures the integrity of the aerated concrete building.

We take 10-centimeter blocks and form formwork from them along the perimeter of the walls. We fill the ditch with reinforcement and pour cement mortar.

We embed metal studs into the armo-belt for attaching the Mauerlat. We can make them from reinforcement. Even more convenient option- threaded studs. It is easier to attach a Mauerlat to them.

On this box at home is ready.

Mauerlat has already been installed. It's time to install the rafters. At this stage, everything is individual - focus on the features of the selected roof structure.

Several options are available:

Regardless of the chosen roof design, it must be equipped with insulating layers: hydro, heat and vapor barrier. In some cases (for example, when a residential attic is being built), a layer of soundproofing material is mounted.

We fix over the rafters waterproofing material. The easiest way to do this is with wooden slats. At the same time, the slats will play the role of a counter-lattice, to which the laths of the batten for roofing material will later be fixed.

Under the waterproofing, in the space between the laths of the crate, we lay the insulation. Most commonly used mineral wool. If you wish, you can choose another material (polystyrene foam, polystyrene, etc.).

We cover the thermal insulation with a layer vapor barrier film. We attach it to the rafters with wooden slats.

At the end, we put the finishing roofing. At this point, be guided by the available budget and personal preferences. Most popular materials:

• slate;
• bituminous tiles;
• corrugated board;
• metal tile;
• ceramic tiles.

Any roofing material install starting from the bottom. As a result, the sheets will be fixed so that sedimentary moisture can drain without penetrating under the roofing.

On this box of gas blocks with a roof is ready. Next up is the installation work. engineering communications and finishing, but this is a topic for a separate guide.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house

Special thanks to you for doing geology, because, unfortunately, usually everything is done by guesswork. In your report it is clearly written that 1.1 m of the vegetation layer needs to be passed, and then stable solid ground. And that the standard freezing depth is 1.6 m. According to the norms, the foundation is made 10 cm below the freezing depth, respectively 1.7 m. Yes, TISE should be more economical.

1. TISE piles should be buried no more than 2.0-2.5 m (preferably 2.5 m), with a low or high monolithic grillage. A grillage is a monolithic belt that connects all the piles into a single system and evenly distributes the load from the house to the base.

The foundation parameters are:

Pile with a diameter of 250-300 mm, with an extension of 500 mm. The length of the pile is 2-2.5 m. The grillage is 400-450 mm wide and 500-600 mm high. If you make a grillage high, then a height of 500 mm will pass, if low, then 600 mm.

Reinforcement of pillars: 4 rods of longitudinal reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm, connected with transverse reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm every 30 cm. Or 3 rods of longitudinal reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm, connected with transverse reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm every 30 cm.

Pile column reinforcement scheme

The monolithic grillage is reinforced: 4 rods of longitudinal reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm, connected by transverse reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm every 30 cm. Reinforcement indent from the edge of concrete - 5 cm.

The grillage is made under all load-bearing walls (as well as piles) and the width is supported based on the thickness of the walls.

A low grillage can be made provided that you add sand under the grillage. It should be noted that with heaving soils (on loams), the grillage should “hang” on piles at a height of 150-200 mm from the soil surface, for which a pile protruding from the ground is made (soil heaving, can reach 15 cm in moisture-saturated soils). But, if you perform a blind area immediately after the construction of the house, and even better, if during the construction process you make a rough blind area to drain sedimentary water, then there will be no point in raising the grillage. Scheme:

Scheme of a high (hanging) grillage

Installed first reinforcing cage reinforcement is inserted into the well, then the pile is poured, and then the grillage formwork is installed after the piles have hardened and gained strength.

There is no need to do padding under the pillars. Only under the grillage. If the grillage is hanging, you can not add it either, but if you want to put it on the ground, then it is better to fill it with sand, since clay soil will heave and can tear the grillage (the heaving force of clay is approximately 150 tons per m2, which is a lot). For backfilling, you need to dig a small trench (where there is a grillage according to the markup). In width - the width of the grillage. About 20 cm deep. Pour 10 cm on the bottom (tamp) river sand, and 10 cm of crushed stone, fractions of 30-50 mm.

The scheme of backfilling under a low grillage

For questions from our readers, we have written many useful articles, I advise you to read such an article in its entirety. Do-it-yourself frame house. Foundation for a frame house. With the extension of the pile has best performance, but they are not made to such a depth as 2-2.5 m.

Such pile foundation will easily withstand your one-story house. Next, I will sketch the layout of the piles for you on your own diagram. Remember that piles are installed in without fail at the corners and intersections of load-bearing walls, as well as the distance between them should be no more than 2 m. Better than 1.5 m. It is better to make the foundation for the porch immediately, without breaking it with the main house, the same piles and the same grillage.

There are about 45 piles here, but you can reduce their number by arranging them so that there are piles not under the window openings, but under the windows. Due to the fact that there are a lot of windows on the plan, I arranged them based on this. You can make 1.5-2 m just a distance, but keep in mind that at all intersections of load-bearing walls and corners you need to put a pile.

You can use a hollow brick for the basement, just do not forget that the grillage itself is already a basement and you can do without it in this case, or raise 3-4 rows of bricks, but lay 2 layers of roofing material between the grillage and the brick. To prevent the brick from pulling moisture from the grillage. Yes, it is possible to make internal non-load-bearing partitions from 120 mm bricks, but it is better to make a load-bearing wall from a homogeneous material, since the weight and density of blocks and bricks is different and shrinkage will also be different. Here you can not connect the walls with masonry or mesh, it can break.

2. And I'm just usually FOR floors on the ground. Take less with them, and then you can put tiles and a warm floor, a more solid floor. I don't understand why you think otherwise...

If you insulate the floor along the lags or the floor along the ground, then the comfort will be the same, it is not comfortable without a heater. Wooden, of course, is warmer in itself and cannot be completely covered with insulation (usually mineral wool is placed between the lags, the tree should be ventilated. Only here in wooden floors mice can settle, but the screed is still stronger and will not hold together like a tree over time. Basically, it's up to you to choose. It is impossible to make a warm floor along the logs. In the article that I give above, at the very bottom, the foundations for the supporting pillars are completely drawn.

It also doesn’t work very well on partitions, you need to make your own reinforced ribbon foundations for all partitions (bearing and non-bearing) (albeit not to the entire freezing depth, but by 60 cm for sure). Then the partitions are driven out, and after that a wooden floor is made in each room. Bricks or blocks cannot be supported on a wooden floor (it does not pass through the load, even a partition of 120 mm). Usually plasterboard partitions rest on the village floor. Therefore, of course, the screed is more practical.

6. We need, we need a Mauerlat. It also performs important functions like the armored belt. The first is to take on the load from the beams and distribute it evenly on the wall. And in the second case - to transfer the load from the expansion of the rafters. This is in addition to the convenient fastening of the roof.

Your option is not good, you are thinning the armored belt with such a design. Reducing the width due to polystyrene foam is not worth doing - you need protective layer reinforcement withstand. You need to remove the internal 75 mm GBB from the inside, this is not necessary for you. The height of the armo-belt 25 cm is enough, on the diagram it will be 30 cm, but 25 is enough for you. The diagram will be like this:

7. By the way, we checked the thickness of the outer wall of 400 mm from aerated concrete by calculating the thermal conductivity in your region and everything is fine with you. As you planned, it is not necessary to insulate it, only armored belts and floors. Depending on which floor you choose and at what level, you can say whether the basement needs to be insulated or not.

8. I can redo the scheme with the arrangement of piles if you do not understand the principle. I can put piles under the windows at the right distance, otherwise I placed them last night. 45 piles is a lot, you can do less.