Beautiful and comfortable attic: device and calculation. Making an attic: construction stages The second floor of the attic type do it yourself

Attic called the roof, under which the living rooms are equipped. The shape of the mansard roof can be different, but most often the attic is equipped under a gable roof. The most rational solution that allows you to get the maximum usable area of ​​\u200b\u200ba residential attic is a mansard roof with a broken slope line.

The stages of building a mansard roof with your own hands are in many ways similar to the construction of a regular one, as well as the names of the elements that make up its frame. These include:

• Mauerlat - a support beam that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
• Floor beams - boards that form the attic floor and the ceiling of the lower floor;
• Racks - vertical supports supporting the truss system;
• Runs - horizontal supports for rafters;
• Rigel - transverse horizontal elements that pull the roof slopes together, otherwise they are called puffs;
• Rafters - boards that form the main contour of the roof;
• Suspension - a suspension rack that supports puffs and redistributes the load between the rafters;
• Sheathing - boards or sheets of plywood designed for laying roofing over them and transferring the load to the rafter system;
• Filly - boards fixed along the axis at the bottom of the rafters and designed to form a roof overhang.

The cross section of the roof elements is determined by calculation, the article presents the most commonly used materials in private construction.

The device of a broken mansard roof and its differences

As already mentioned, a roof with broken slopes is somewhat different from a simple gable roof. The difference lies in the shape of the opposite slopes: they are not a straight line, but consist of two slopes connected at an obtuse angle. The roof can be either symmetrical or have a different shape of opposite slopes - it depends on the project.

Thanks to the broken shape, the usable volume of the attic space is significantly increased. The lower part of the rafters is usually set at an angle of about 60 degrees to the horizontal, and the support posts supporting these rafters act as the frame of the interior walls. The upper part of the rafters is most often installed at a slight angle, from 15 to 45 degrees - this allows you to save materials, but maintain the functionality of the roof and its resistance to snow loads.

Vertical racks resting on floor beams, girders and puffs connecting them form a parallelepiped that limits the internal dimensions of the attic. To give the structure additional rigidity, struts are installed between the floor beams and the lower rafters. After installing the upper rafters, to strengthen the truss and eliminate the sagging of the crossbars, hanging supports are installed - grandmas. To further strengthen the lower rafters, they are pulled together with racks using contractions. The elements are fastened with nails and bolts or studs.

Calculation of the dimensions of the mansard roof

The main condition for a comfortable attic device is the height of the ceilings - it should not be lower than 2.5 meters. To ensure such a height of the room, the break line of the mansard roof must be at a height of at least 2.8 meters, taking into account the thickness of the insulation layer and the inner lining of the attic, as well as the thickness of the finishing floors.

Before proceeding with the purchase of materials and the construction of the roof, it is necessary to draw a detailed drawing, which will indicate the overall dimensions of the house, the line of slopes and the height of the attic.

Drawing - mansard roof dimensions

The technology of erecting a broken mansard roof

1. Install the Mauerlat around the perimeter of the house. In wooden buildings, the upper beam or log serves as the Mauerlat. In stone - brick or block - structures, the Mauerlat beam is attached to studs or anchors fixed in the walls during masonry at a distance of no more than 2 meters. The Mauerlat is leveled along the inner plane of the wall, the wall remaining outside is later laid with decorative masonry. Mauerlat timber from dry softwood usually has a section of 100 or 150 mm. Saw off the beam of the desired length, straighten the anchor studs if necessary and lay the beam on top of them. Lightly tapping with a hammer. Dents from the studs remain on the beam, a hole of the required diameter is drilled through them. You can also mark the beam with a tape measure, but the probability of error in this case is higher. A rolled waterproofing is laid on the wall, you can use an ordinary roofing material in two layers. Mauerlat is put on the studs and the nuts are tightened.

   

2. For floor beams, coniferous timber with a section of 100x200 mm is usually used. Floor beams are placed either on top of the Mauerlat with an exit beyond the plane of the walls by 0.3-0.5 meters, or in specially designed pockets in the masonry. In the first case, the beams are fixed with corners and self-tapping screws. To make the floors even, the beams are laid in strict sequence: first, the extreme ones in level, then, pulling the cord, they align the intermediate ones along them. The step of the floor beams is usually from 50 to 100 cm, but the most convenient step is 60 cm, which allows you to lay the insulation boards without trimming. To equalize the height of the beams, they are hemmed or board linings are used. If the beams are placed in special pockets in the masonry, their ends must be treated with coating waterproofing and wrapped with roofing material. Align them in the same way.
3. Racks are installed on the extreme floor beams. The end posts are made of timber 100x150 mm, the height and installation line of the posts is determined according to a previously prepared drawing. Racks are leveled using a level and a plumb line and temporarily fixed with jibs in perpendicular directions - along and across the axis of the roof. This will allow you to install the racks without deviations in any direction. The jibs are made from any board and nailed. A cord is pulled between the extreme drains and the rest of the racks are set along it with a step equal to the step of the floor beams, that is, for each beam. All racks are fixed in the same way as the extreme ones. You should end up with two rows of uprights of the same height, running parallel to each other.

   

4. Runs from a board 50x150 mm are laid and fixed on racks, runs are fixed on nails 150 mm and on corners using self-tapping screws. Crossbars from a 50x200 mm board are placed on the runs with the narrow side down - this will increase their rigidity. Since there will be no load on the crossbar during operation, this section of the board is quite enough, however, in order to exclude their deflection and increase reliability during installation, when installing the crossbars, temporary supports from the board are placed under them no thinner than 25 mm. On top of the crossbar, they are fastened with one or two boards - also temporarily, before the installation of the rafters. At the same time, the boards should not be placed in the middle of the puff - there they will interfere with further installation, but retreating about 30 cm. After installing the racks, girders and crossbars, you get a rigid structure that limits the interior of the attic. To increase its strength, it is subsequently fixed with struts and contractions.
5. Installed from a board 50x150 mm. First, a template is made from a 25x150 mm board - it is easier and faster to process. A board of the required length is applied to the upper run, washed down the shape directly on the board and cut out. A template is applied to the run at the installation sites of the rafters, and if it matches everywhere, then the upper part of all rafters can be made according to the template. The lower part, which rests on the Mauerlat next to the floor beams, is cut out in place each time. The rafters are fixed with the help of corners and self-tapping screws and on nails.

   

6. To perform the upper rafters, it is necessary to mark the center of the roof. This can be done with a temporary stand nailed to the Mauerlat and an extreme tightening from the end of the roof so that one edge of the board runs along the center line of the roof. The rafters are aligned along this edge. Next, a template is prepared from a 25x150 mm board, applying it to the edge of the installed board at the desired level and to the run on which the lower rafters rest. Mark the top and bottom cuts and cut out the template. Apply it alternately to both sides of the roof, checking how accurately its center is marked. If the rows of racks are made in parallel, then there should be no problems with installing the upper rafters - they will all have the same size.
7. According to the template, the required number of rafter legs is performed. The rafters are installed on the girders and connected in the upper part with the help of overhead metal plates or board scraps for self-tapping screws. In the run, the rafters rest on the cuts and are fixed on the corners. In order for the rafters to stand straight, they are fixed with the help of struts installed with the lower end on puffs. So put all the rafters. Hanging racks are attached - pieces of board 25x150 mm. The upper edge of the board is fixed at the junction of the rafters, the lower edge - to the puff.
8. They put struts under the lower rafters from a 50x150 mm board, resting them with their lower oblique cut against the floor beam and fixing them on the corners, and the upper edge is attached to the side of the rafter leg, nailed to one or two nails, after which a through hole is drilled and fixed to a bolt or stud . After installing the lower struts, remove all temporary supports and racks.
9. Gables are sewn up, leaving door and window openings. If the floor beams are laid in the pockets of the walls, fillies are attached to the lower rafters - boards that continue the line of the rafters and form a roof overhang. When laying floors on top of the Mauerlat, the beams already protrude to the required distance, and there is no need for fillies.
10. corresponding to the type of roofing - solid or sparse. Waterproofing is placed on the crate and the roofing is installed, for example,.

A sloping mansard roof usually does not need insulation - only the walls and ceiling of the attic are insulated. The air space formed under the rafters ensures good ventilation of the attic, reduces the heating of the attic rooms in summer and provides additional thermal insulation in winter. Therefore, when sewing gables, it is important to leave ventilation windows in the upper part of the roof, above the floors of the attic floor.

Video - instructions for building a mansard roof

Nowadays, the desire to effectively use the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house is quite understandable, so many immediately plan to build an attic at the design stage of the house, or convert the attic space in a certain way, as well as remove the roof, and attach the attic floor with their own hands to the old house.

In fact, the attic is an attic, the design of which is regulated by the norms of SNiP, which entails alterations not only of the roof, but also changes in the thermal and waterproofing of the upper extension.

In order for the attic to be reliable, warm with your own hands, not to harm the load-bearing walls and foundation of the house, and to serve for a long time, it is necessary to understand the specifics and knowledge of the design features of this type of superstructure. In the article we will talk about the main types of the attic floor, from what materials you can make an extension, as well as about the specifics and nuances of the phased construction of the attic with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself attic floor above the garage

The main types of attics

Do-it-yourself attic construction begins with the choice of the type of extension, the most suitable design for the main building, and the manufacture of the project. For the superstructure, single-pitched, gable and broken roofs are used: four-pitched, domed, etc. The appearance of the attic floor is determined by the materials, structural features of the building and the specifics that are assigned to the completion.

Depending on the particular main building, standard solutions are usually used in the construction of the attic.

1. Gable; 2. Broken gable; 3.Single-level; 4.Multilevel

1. Single-level with a gable roof - this is an ordinary attic under a gable roof, converted and insulated into an attic. The design and construction of such a room is not difficult, but the main drawback is the small internal usable space with a low ceiling.
2. Single-level under a broken gable roof has four pitched planes, which are located at different angles. The device of this type of attic floor is somewhat more expensive and more difficult to design, but the result is a large interior space.
3. A single-level attic with the removal of consoles presents some difficulties in design and construction. But the spacious interior and the ability to install vertical windows compensate for the complexity of the construction. A feature of the construction of such an attic frame is the displacement and extension of the extension beyond the sides of the house, and the attic roof is identical in appearance to a shed roof.
4. Multi-level completion with mixed roof support. This is a complex attic design that requires professional calculations and design not only of the room itself, but also of the stairs to the attic. As a rule, such attic floors, with multi-level rooms, are planned together with the construction of the main house, as a one-piece structure.

materials

The house is built on a foundation, which is specially designed for the weight of the structure. If the attic floor is planned initially, the load is calculated and laid down at the attic design stage, so the attic floor can be built from any materials: a monolithic attic made of concrete, brick, foam concrete, metal structures, or galvanized logs. But if the superstructure of the attic floor is carried out after the construction of the house, then the weight of the superstructure must be calculated in accordance with the load on the foundation and load-bearing walls. Accordingly, in order for the superstructure not to damage the house, the material should be light, for example, wooden beams, frame-panel structures, in some cases the building is made of aerated concrete, which has good heat and vapor barrier properties, and vulture panels.

Attic device

Attic floor projects involve the use of various materials for the walls, but, in fact, the design of the attic is pitched roofs resting on the walls. Of course, different versions of the extensions of the attic floor have their own characteristics, but in general they consist of the following elements:

• Roof.
• A crate of wooden boards on which the roofing and insulating materials are attached.
• The ridge run is the top of the truss structure.
• Rafters for the roof of the attic - stiffeners, layered or hanging. In the attic, layered rafters are usually made.
• Mauerlat - beams that are laid along the perimeter of the external walls and are connected to the walls with special fasteners. A truss structure is attached to the Mauerlat.
• Diagonal ties (bevels) for the reliability and strength of the attic, with the help of which rafters, longitudinal beams and vertical racks are connected.
• Internal supports give the attic stability, if the attic area is large, they support the ridge run and rafters.
• An insulating layer consisting of waterproofing, insulation, sound and vapor barriers. Provides temperature conditions and moisture exchange between the main walls and the roof.

The minimum distance from the floor to the highest point of the ceiling in accordance with SNiP should be 2.5 m. If the height is less, then the room is an attic.

We build an attic with our own hands, the main connecting nodes:
A - ridge knot. B - rafter + screed + rack. B - rafter + ceiling beam G - ceiling beam + rack + strut. D - stand + strut

Construction technology

Attic walls are maximally attracted to the walls of the main building, so it is extremely difficult to achieve comfortable heat transfer. It is very important to choose the right materials for insulation, make ventilation, the entire structure must be erected in accordance with the drawing and calculations, and the wooden parts must be treated with a fire-fighting compound.

Do-it-yourself attic installation, how to properly fix the knots

Rules for the construction of the attic floor

In order for the attic to serve with your own hands for many years, it is necessary to fulfill the conditions that are prescribed in the SNiP standards:

• Rafters should be 250 mm or more, it is better to use glued beams. This thickness is due to the ability to lay insulation between the rafters with a thickness of at least 200 mm.
• Heaters should not lose their properties at high humidity, it is best to use foamed polystyrene, which has a small weight and a low heat transfer coefficient. Mineral wool absorbs moisture and breaks down.
• Between the thermal insulation and the roof there must be full ventilation, with hoods and ventilators, so that the air circulates freely under the entire roof surface of the attic floor.
• Inside, be sure to arrange a vapor barrier layer.
• A waterproofing layer is laid on the outer side of the rafters, it is recommended to additionally lay a soundproofing layer.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make an attic with your own hands

Do-it-yourself attic construction is fraught with some difficulties, since the superstructure elements are at an angle, the installation of broken slopes and skylights requires compliance with SNiP standards in terms of “Load and impact”.

When making a drawing of the installation floor, it is necessary to accurately calculate the loads, angles of inclination, the permissible weight of the structure, and, in accordance with preliminary calculations, select the appropriate type of attic and materials for construction.

Do-it-yourself attic construction begins with the installation of maurlin along the perimeter of the house, usually a bar with a section of 100 * 100 mm is used for this.

Next, we build a frame for the room. Racks can be from a bar with a cross section equal to the longitudinal beams, possibly from foam concrete or metal. We fix the vertical racks at the corners of the rack structure, and then install the beams between them, with a step of no more than 2 meters, equal to the location of the attic rafters. All parts are attached to metal corners, nail plates or self-tapping screws.

We build the frame of the internal attic room, instead of vertical wooden racks there can be a wall of foam concrete blocks or a metal frame

On top of the rack we tighten with a jumper and fix the structure. With the help of a building cord, follow the geometry of the building.

We attach the lower rafters to the resulting frame. The beam is cut to the estimated length, a groove is made at the base for secure fastening to the Mauerlat, the top of the beam is cut off according to the calculated angle of inclination. Installation of the lower rafters is carried out in place and securely fixed.

Do-it-yourself attic installation, photo of fixing the lower rafters of the room, instead of vertical wooden racks there can be a wall of foam concrete blocks or a metal frame

The next step is the installation of the upper rafters. The difficulty lies in maintaining the angle and centering of the structure as a whole.

Advice: So that the angle of attachment of the rafters does not go astray, first a template is made from two boards that exactly matches the connection of the rafters. The beams are cut to a template on the ground, and then installed on the frame.

Do-it-yourself frame attic, installation of the upper rafter structure

Attic device, construction of lathing for roofing material

The next step is to create an insulating layer. It is recommended to use non-toxic and non-combustible materials, this is especially true if a nursery or bedroom is located on the attic floor. On the inside of the rafter frame, we lay the vapor barrier, fasten it with brackets. Then a layer of insulation is mounted, it is important that it fits snugly against the rafters, without gaps. On the heat-insulating layer we mount the crate with a step of 500 mm, which will fix the insulation.

We build an attic with our own hands, installation of roofing material

We lay a waterproofing layer on the crate, which will protect the wooden elements from moisture. The roof is laid on waterproofing.

Do-it-yourself attic construction, video materials clearly demonstrate how to properly install rafters in practice.

This video shows typical mistakes made during the installation of the attic floor.

Features of an attic extension with your own hands to an old house

If it is planned to complete the attic in an old private house or in the country, to equip additional living space, then in this case the issue of dismantling the roof is relevant. Dismantling can be done with your own hands, be sure to follow the safety precautions so that the beams do not fall on your head.

The construction of the attic provides for certain loads on the foundation and walls of the building. It is especially important to correctly distribute the loads on the walls, therefore, before building an attic, the load-bearing wall structures are carefully strengthened.

Important: When designing, the strength of the walls should be taken into account, taking into account the wear and dilapidation of the structure.

The overlap of the old house is both the ceiling of the adjacent floor and the floor of the attic, so it is necessary to take into account the movement of warm and wet flows so that condensation does not form in the ceiling, and as a result, rotting and fungi. To avoid problems, you need high-quality insulation and waterproofing of the floor.

After completing the preparatory procedures, you can begin to join and build the attic floor. During completion, it is important to strictly adhere to the design scheme for erecting walls and attic roofing. Violation of the project entails not only deviations from the design of the attic floor, but also improper distribution of the load on the supporting structures can lead to the destruction of the walls and foundation of the house.

The easiest and most reliable way to increase the usable living space in an old house is a do-it-yourself attic. A video on how to build an attic floor in a frame house will help to avoid global mistakes, and will tell you the nuances of how best to make an attic with your own hands. The work performed in accordance with the attic floor construction technology guarantees the reliability and safe operation of the extension.

The mansard roof makes it possible to significantly increase the total living area, while financial investments will be minimal. The most common option is a gable broken structure, which is easy to build on your own.

How to make a mansard roof yourself

Under the mansard roof, you can equip rooms for housing. The shape of the building may be different, but in most cases the attic is equipped under a roof with two slopes. The optimal solution, which allows you to get a significant area of ​​\u200b\u200bliving space, is a broken structure.

A sloping roof is the best option for arranging an attic

Drawings and calculations of a mansard type roof

The first step is to decide on the scheme of the frame. Rafters can be layered or hanging type. Sloped rest on the walls of the building. They are mounted in structures where the distance between the walls is less than 6.5 m. Hanging rafters are placed on fillies and Mauerlat. If the width of the spans is large, then the rafter system will need to be reinforced with auxiliary ligaments.

The main condition for the comfortable construction of the attic is the level of the ceilings - it must be above 2.5 m. To ensure such a height, the break line should be placed at a height of more than 2.8 m, taking into account the thickness of the layer of material for insulation and sheathing of the structure. It is also important to consider the thickness of the floor.

An example of a drawing can be seen in the image:

The minimum ceiling height of the mansard roof is 2.5 m

To calculate the expected snow loads, you will need to apply this formula: S \u003d Sg x µ, where S is the snow load, Sg is the weight of the snow cover per 1 m 2 area, µ is a value that depends on the slope of the roof (1.0 - for a flat design with a slope of 25°, 0.7 for a design with a slope of 25-60°).

The parameters Sg and Wo can be found in the relevant SNiP, in the "Rafter systems" section. If the roof has a steep slope, then the snow load can be ignored.

Roof device

The frame structure includes the following details:

• mauerlat - a support bar that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
• racks - supporting parts that support the rafter system in a vertical position;
• floor beams - planks that form half of the attic and the ceiling of the lower floor;
• rafters - slats that form the main contour of the roof;
• runs - horizontal support parts for rafters;
• lathing - slats or plywood sheets that are intended for laying roofing material;
• filly - planks that are attached along the axis at the bottom of the rafter legs.

The frame consists of a mauerlat, racks, girders, floor beams and other elements

The sloping roof differs from the usual design with two slopes. The difference is that the slopes that are placed opposite each other have a special shape: they do not form a straight line, but consist of several slopes that are fastened to one another at an obtuse angle. The design is also symmetrical.

The extreme part of the rafters is mainly exposed at an angle of about 60 °. Racks for support, which hold the rafters, form the frame structure of the inner walls. The upper part of the rafters is mounted at a small angle, it can be from 15 to 45 °. This makes it possible to reduce the consumption of materials, while maintaining the functional properties of the roof and resistance to snow loads.

Vertical racks, which abut against floor planks, girders and crossbars fastening them, form a parallelepiped. The design limits the dimensions of the attic from the inside. To give the product additional rigidity, struts should be installed between the floor slats and the lower rafter legs.

If the roof span is more than 8 m, then you will need to install struts

After mounting the upper elements to fix the truss and prevent sagging of the crossbars, it is necessary to install suspended support elements - headstocks. For auxiliary fixation of the lower rafter legs, they must be pulled together with racks using tacks. Parts are fastened with nails and bolts.

Stages of self-construction of the attic

If it is decided to make such a design yourself, it is important to provide for the use of such materials in the project:

• roofing material;
• vapor barrier;
• waterproofing;
• material for insulation.

The choice of insulation affects such a parameter as the pitch of the rafters. To reduce the amount of heat insulator, it is best to place the rafters so that the slab or mat fits snugly between them. The type of lathing and its pitch will depend on the choice of material for covering the roof. You need to pay attention not only to the choice of high-quality material for insulation, but also to the creation of an effective ventilation system.

Ventilation is equipped by preparing technological gaps

The construction of the rafter system must be carried out using fireproof materials. All parts should be treated with fire protection. You will need to prepare the following elements:

• wooden bars with a section of 100x50 mm;
• slats 50x150 mm;
• unedged boards;
• building level;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• steel wire with a diameter of 4–5 mm;
• plumb;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• axe;
• hammer;
• sharp knife.

Drafting a project

One of the most important parts of the job is drafting a project. It is very important to analyze the features of the layout of a private house. It is necessary to determine the dimensions and shape of the structure being erected, as well as to provide for the placement of windows and a balcony.

All structural elements should be marked on the project

In the process of drawing up a project, the following requirements must be taken into account:

1. It is important to decide in advance what height the attic should be. It should be remembered that the distance from the floor base to the highest point of the structure must be at least 0.5 m.
2. It is recommended to take into account the heating area and the main elements of the interior.
3. The attic scheme should be expanded. If you plan to install windows, then they must be indicated on the drawing.

Drawing up a drawing must begin with the choice of shape, determining the cross section of the rafter legs and the step of their placement. To determine the size of the rafters, the following parameters must be taken into account:

• slope;
• roofing material;
• climate features in the construction region.

It is also important to provide for the required number of rafters in the project. They can be layered or hanging type.

Rafters can be hanging or layered

At the end, you should determine the number of parts for fixing. In the figure below you can see some of the data needed for the calculation, however, drafting a project is a complex process. This work is recommended to be entrusted to qualified specialists.

Mauerlat installation

The device of the mansard roof rafter system should be selected based on the type of roof, as well as on the prepared project of the attic. A simple option is a design with two slopes.

The main details of the roof truss system with two slopes are:

• linear elements (column, bar system, beam);
• planar details (plate, flooring, panel);
• spatial elements (arch, shell, three-dimensional detail).

Before performing work, you will need to dry the wood thoroughly. The first step is the marking and installation of the Mauerlat. It is attached to the walls of the building. The part can be made from a bar or a powerful rail. If it is planned to build a roof with two slopes, then the Mauerlat is laid on the long walls of the building. The element is necessary not only for reliable fixation of the lower part of the rafters, but also for the correct division of the load on the walls and the main part of the building.

To fix the Mauerlat, metal studs should be used, which are mounted in a monolithic concrete beam.

To fix the Mauerlat, you need to install metal studs

The beam should be carried out in the upper part of the wall. It is also possible to use steel wire embedded in brickwork.

To fix the Mauerlat to the upper crown of the wooden wall, you need to use wooden dowels. auerlat requires high-quality waterproofing of timber timber. Therefore, it is necessary to use roofing material or other material with a water-repellent property.

Before installing the Mauerlat, the base must be covered with roofing material

Mauerlat installation is required if it is planned to erect a roof frame, the rafters of which rest against the upper part of the wall with beveled ends or prepared cutouts.

If you plan to make an attic, the width of which corresponds to the width of the building, the rafter legs should rest with their lower ends against the extended support parts. As supports, it is possible to use powerful beams laid across long walls. The number of supporting elements corresponds to the number of rafters. The beams must be fixed to the walls in the same way as the Mauerlat.

Sequencing:

Frame construction

The frame of the mansard roof consists of floor beams, rafters, girders and racks

Softwood bars 200x100 mm are often used as a material. Floor slats are placed on top of the Mauerlat with a 30–50 cm indent beyond the surface of the walls or in prepared grooves in the masonry. In the first case, the parts are fixed with the help of corners and self-tapping screws.

Fixing the beam to the Mauerlat can be done using steel corners

To make an even overlap, the strips should be installed in this sequence:

1. First of all, the extreme details are laid according to the level.
2. Next, pull the cord and install intermediate elements along it.
3. The step of the beams should be from 60 to 100 cm. A distance of 60 cm makes it possible to mount insulation boards without sawing.
4. To level the beams in height, they can be hemmed. Another option is to use plank linings.
5. If the beams are inserted into prepared pockets, their extreme parts must be treated with liquid waterproofing and wrapped with roofing material.

Racks must be placed on the extreme slats:

After installing the racks, crossbars and girders, you can get a reliable design that will limit the interior rooms of the attic. To increase its strength, in the future it should be fixed with struts and tacks.

Installation of rafters

At this stage, the installation of the lower rafters is carried out:

After that, the upper elements are installed:

1. The first step is to mark the central part of the roof. This can be done using a rack that was previously attached to the Mauerlat and puff from the end of the roof. The extreme part of the board should run along the center of the roof. On this board you need to align the rafter legs.
2. Next, you need to prepare a template from a 150x25 mm rail. It should be applied to the extreme part of the mounted rail at the required level and to the run on which the lower rafter legs will rest.
3. You should mark the top and bottom cuts and cut out the template. The device is applied in turn to two sides of the roof. This will make it possible to check the accuracy of the layout of the central part. If the rows of racks are placed in parallel, then there will be no difficulties in fixing the upper elements - they will have identical dimensions.
4. According to the preparation, it is necessary to prepare the required number of rafters. The parts are placed on the runs and connected in the upper parts with the help of overhead iron plates or scraps of planks. In the latter case, self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. In the run, the rafters rest against the cuts and are seized with iron corners. In order for the parts to stand straight, they are fastened with struts mounted on the bottom of the puffs. All rafters are installed in this way.
5. Suspension racks are fixed - pieces of planks 150x25 mm. The upper part of the rail is attached at the place where the rafters are fixed, the lower part is attached to the tightening.

Video: mansard roof truss system

Installation of struts and gables

Sequencing:

Construction lathing

The crate is needed for:

• distribution and transfer of the weight of the roofing material to the rafters;
• performing additional fastening of the rafter system;
• grounds for fixing roofing material.

The crate can be made in one or two layers, solid or with a vacuum.

The crate can be solid or with a vacuum

The installation method depends on what material is planned to be used to cover the structure. If a roof of slate or metal tiles is being erected, the lathing should be made of slats, which are attached to the bars of the rafter legs with nails. In this case, the installation step of adjacent planks can be 27–30 cm.

A solid crate is used in the case of fastening soft material in rolls.

A solid crate is necessary for a soft roof

In this case, moisture-resistant plywood sheets or particle boards can be used. It is allowed to use pine wood material - edged planks.

It is important to take into account the fact that when constructing such a crate, the material to be laid must follow the contours of the outer base. Therefore, the frame structure must be strong and leveled.

In the process of laying out the material, you should use a cord with which the slats or slabs will lie flat. Parts must be placed parallel to each other. Before fixing, the material must be treated with an antiseptic composition to protect it from decay, fungus and dampness. The blanks must be even and of high quality. It is recommended to give preference to wood grades 1 and 2. It should not have knots. To prevent the boards from warping, they must first be dried.

The sequence of actions for installing the crate:

Mansard roof waterproofing

The material for the roof does not have thermal insulation properties, so you will need to prepare a quality material that will be environmentally friendly for human health. Quite often, mineral wool or glass wool is used. Both materials have excellent sound and heat insulation parameters. It is also important to consider that if the roof is made of metal, when the insulation gets wet, all its qualities can be reduced to zero. Therefore, it is important to carefully consider the device design.

It will not work to insulate the attic without laying waterproofing material, so the process should be considered as a whole. Step by step guide to waterproofing a structure:

Practice has shown that it is better to protect the insulation with the help of modern materials, for example, Tyvek or Izospan. The use of ordinary polyethylene film gives a poor result, as condensation may appear. Experienced craftsmen believe that it is not necessary to waterproof the structure with roofing material.

Before proceeding to work, it is necessary to decide on the heat-insulating material.

Mineral wool is a fairly popular material used for roof insulation.

The most commonly used heat insulators are:

• glass wool;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• foamed glass;
• wood shavings;
• straw.

It is necessary to choose a material taking into account four parameters.

1. Thermal conductivity index. For roof insulation, 0.05 W/m*K or less is optimal.
2. Water resistance. The higher the score, the better.
3. Fire resistant.
4. Environmental Safety.

The insulating qualities of mineral wool deteriorate significantly after a while. Also, the material can be damaged under the influence of mechanical loads. However, mineral wool has a low cost, so the material is used quite often. Polyfoam is not afraid of water and has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. If you plan to build a house only from environmentally friendly materials, then you can use foam glass or straw.

Roof insulation step by step guide:

Laying roofing material and installation of window openings

As an example, the installation of metal tiles will be considered, since this material is used quite often:

The number of windows is determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the floor base 1:10. For example, if the attic area is 100 m 2, then the glazing should be approximately 10 m 2. When installing windows, you need to take into account such nuances.

The attic does not have to be used as a place to store unnecessary things. Very often, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthis room allows you to equip it with a full-fledged living area or a place for family leisure, or a hobby. The idea of ​​such construction has been successfully used since the middle of the 17th century thanks to the French architect Francois Mansart and is especially relevant for increasing the area of ​​a private house, and sometimes city apartments.

How to settle in an attic, what activities should be carried out for this, and how to build an attic where it has never been? Look for answers to these questions in our article.

Building an attic

The attic device will help to significantly reduce construction costs in general, rationally use the available floor space and realize the most daring ideas. The attic floor can occupy both the entire attic and part of it, depending on the purpose of the future premises: a bedroom, an office, an office or a bathroom.

Cozy attic do it yourself

Do-it-yourself attic construction also provides the following advantages:

• The infrastructure of the main building is fully used.
• Significantly increased living space.
• Reducing heat loss through the roof and, as a result, reducing energy consumption in the cold season.
• Relatively simple installation (without the use of special equipment) and the possibility of being in the house during construction.
• Possibility of construction of one- or two-level floor.

How to make the attic a unique architectural element

Important: When building an attic floor with your own hands, you need to take into account the design features of the building, including: the height of the walls, the shape of the roof, the location of communications - and comply with fire safety requirements.

Features of the construction of the attic floor

The roof is a building envelope, which, in addition to precipitation and temperature changes from the outside, is subject to influences from the inside: heat and moisture from the living space, and they can cause dampness and corrosion. Therefore, during the construction of the attic floor, very stringent requirements are put forward for hydro, steam and thermal insulation of the roof, compliance with which will ensure reliable protection of the premises from negative factors.

How to properly insulate the attic floor during construction

Also, during the construction of the attic floor, it is important to take care of high-quality ventilation, which is installed between the insulation and the roof. This will ensure the removal of excess moisture and ventilation of the attic.

Particular attention should be paid to construction technology and the materials used (especially their weight) - this will ensure the safe operation of the attic floor in the future. In addition, do not forget that the use of the attic floor as a living space does not eliminate the observance of the technical requirements for the operation of the roof.

Where to start building?

Before the start of construction, a technical examination of the building is carried out. It is worth remembering that initially the walls and foundation of the building were designed for a certain load, and the construction of an additional floor will significantly increase it, so you should make sure of their bearing capacity.

Construction of a frame attic

Design

The next stage of construction will be the development and approval of the attic floor project - for this it is better to turn to qualified specialists who will help draw up a competent drawing, calculate loads and estimates.

Important: If the construction of the attic with your own hands is carried out within the city, then for this it is necessary to obtain permission from the city authorities, an expert opinion and the consent of all the owners of the building.

The attic floor plan is developed based on the layouts of the main building, with the roof geometry playing the dominant role. The architectural appearance of the house will have an impact not only on the design of the truss system, but also on the materials used in construction and individual elements of the attic. All structures and parts should be as lightweight as possible, which will ensure minimal load on the walls of the building and ensure easy lifting of materials to the floor.

If the roof of the house has a large slope, then the choice of roofing materials, insulation and waterproofing during the construction of the attic floor should be approached very carefully.

In addition, all communications of the attic floor must be interconnected with the systems in the house, their joint work should be ensured.

The shape of the room, as well as its dimensions, determine the choice of windows, their design and placement in the interior.

Attic construction

Regardless of whether the attic is being built with your own hands, the photo below, in an existing attic or being built from scratch, it is necessary to ensure the unity of architectural and design solutions.

It is possible to build a wooden attic on a brick house

The design of the attic is best made of wood (from timber) or a metal profile, in addition, you can complete the floor from SIP panels, as in the photo below. Stone materials, including brick and concrete, are not recommended for use in construction due to their heavy weight. In extreme cases, you can use blocks of aerated concrete.

We build an attic with our own hands using SIP panels

For roofing, durable but lightweight materials are also suitable, such as profiled sheets, bituminous or composite tiles, metal tiles.

Since the attic has a large surface area of ​​contact with the environment and significant heat losses occur through the roof, it is necessary to take care of high-quality and effective thermal insulation of this floor. For insulation, it is best to use mineral wool or fiberglass with a thickness of 150 mm or more. From the inside of the attic floor, the insulation must be closed with a vapor barrier, and from the side of the roof - with waterproofing. In addition, between the waterproofing and the roof, it is necessary to arrange a ventilation system that will ensure the removal of excess moisture.

Since the attic is a living space, it needs natural light, which windows will help provide. It can be either ordinary vertical window structures that are mounted in walls, or special inclined windows that are installed in the roof plane at an angle of 15-90 degrees.

Roof windows - expensive, but effective

Important: Roof windows let in more light than standard windows with a smaller opening area. To ensure the most efficient and uniform lighting, the ratio of window area to floor area should be 1:10.

The final stage of the device of the attic floor will be finishing work. The simplest option for facing the walls of the attic floor is drywall; internal partitions can also be constructed from it. GKL sheets are attached to a metal profile frame, after which they are puttied and a topcoat can be applied: paint, wallpaper, etc. In addition to drywall, walls can be sheathed with clapboard, wood panels - the choice of material depends on the purpose and design of the future attic. For the floor, the same materials that are used throughout the building are suitable: parquet, laminate, floorboard, ceramic tiles, etc.

Upon completion of construction, you can do the design: think over the interior, install a ladder, arrange furniture, etc.

More about building an attic with your own hands (video):

Attic floor extension

The superstructure of the attic floor makes it possible to simply and effectively increase the living space without the use of expensive equipment and complex technologies, and such construction can be carried out both in a private house and in a typical city building. The cost of completion is about half of the cost of new construction. The design can be wooden - from logs and timber; stone - from foam blocks, from brick and concrete; from metal, as well as their various combinations.

Monolithic attic can have any shape

It is necessary to determine which part of the building structure will bear the load from the extension. If the strength of the walls and foundation is not enough, it will be necessary to install racks on a separate foundation outside the building, which will support the attic floor. A new attic frame on an independent foundation is also necessary in an old house if the supporting structures have significant wear. It would be useful to change the attic floor, since it is most likely not designed for a large load.

The attic device involves the construction of a load-bearing structure, which depends on the roof truss system. For the construction of this structure, it is better to use light materials: thin-walled profile and wood. They will help speed up construction, since fastening is carried out by bolts and rivets. The optimal angle of the slope of the rafters should be 45-60 degrees.

Important: In the manufacture of the truss system, one should be guided by the conditions of the area where the construction is being carried out. The bearing capacity of the roof must be designed for the pressure of wind, snow and roofing material.

The roofs themselves, the figure below, can be:

• Shed.
• Gable.
• broken lines.
• Hip.

1 - a simple gable roof; 2 - gable roof with attic wall; 3 - hip; 4 - four-slope

The last two types are best suited for the attic, but the final choice is determined by the intensity of the load acting on the coating.

During construction, it should be taken into account that the width of the room should not be less than 4.5 m, and the area of ​​​​the entire attic floor should not be less than 7 m2, while the ratio of height and area is ideally 1:2.

The easiest construction option is to build a frame attic with your own hands. To install the attic, it is necessary to remove the old roof, examine the condition of the supporting structures for damage and develop a floor plan. After that, the foundation and the attic frame are mounted. Then the installation and insulation of the roof is carried out.

Read more about how to build an attic with your own hands - video:

How to increase the living space of an old house without additional extensions? The best option is the arrangement of a new mansard-type roof. For its construction, it is necessary to complete the calculation part, to choose the right truss scheme and the material of the roof covering.

First you need to find out the optimal mass of the new structure, since not all walls of the old house are designed for additional load. The total weight of the roofing cake is equal to the sum of the following components: rafters, battens, insulation and waterproofing. At the same time, the light frame structure must be serviceable: it must withstand not only standard snow and wind loads, but also the mass of a person.

Taking data from the table, you can calculate the optimal load on the load-bearing walls. Let's assume that they are made of solid brick with a masonry thickness of 400 mm. Then the constant load will be equal to: 400*1800/1000= 720 kg/m². In this case, the walls are able to support the weight of the attic, made of beams with a density of 300 kg/m³ and covered with ceramic tiles.

If the walls are not able to withstand the total weight of the attic, you can equip an additional foundation. Bearing vertical supports are installed on it to create the foundation of the roof. This design will avoid stress on the walls of the house.

Most often, a new attic is made in the form of a gable broken roof. This is due to the large interior space that can be used as a living space.

Before starting construction, you need to make the correct calculation of the optimal distance between the rafters (see Gable roof truss system). Not always an old wooden house can withstand the load of a new roof, so you should choose the installation step of load-bearing structures based on the estimated weight of the roof. Data about this parameter can be taken from the table.

Then, based on the calculated data, the purchase of material is made - wooden beams, rafters and battens for the crate. The last step depends on the coating material. Often it should not exceed 400 mm. But the final parameters are determined based on the recommendations of the manufacturer of the roofing material.

Mauerlat installation

Mauerlat are horizontal bars on which the load-bearing elements of the roof will be mounted. It is designed to evenly distribute the load on the walls.

To perform installation work, you will need the following materials and tools:

1. Hammer, wood saw.
2. Nails up to 50 mm long. The amount depends on the area of ​​the roof.
3. Measuring tool: plumb line, building level, tape measure.

Most often, a wooden bar with a section of 150 * 100 is used for mounting the Mauerlat. Its quantity is determined by the perimeter of the roof. To connect the timber to the bearing wall, it is recommended to use mounting dowels.

Installation of the truss frame and lathing

At the first stage, it is necessary to install load-bearing beams on the Mauerlat. Then vertical racks are attached to them, interconnected in the upper part by bars - runs. On the resulting frame, rafters are mounted for the future attic roof.

The crate is intended for the installation of roofing. Its size and configuration depends on the protective material used. Usually, 40 * 150 mm boards are used for the manufacture of crates. They are stuffed over the rafters, forming a mounting platform.

final stage

The above technology for the construction of a mansard roof is universal. As a waterproofing layer, it is recommended to use a special rolled microfiber. It is attached to the crate. Roofing is already being installed on top of it. To improve the thermal insulation properties of the roof, it is necessary to perform internal insulation. This is done using basalt wool or extruded polystyrene foam.

What should you pay attention to when arranging a mansard roof in an old one-story house? First of all - correctly calculate the total weight of the structure, install a reliable roofing pie and select the appropriate material. The result of the work is an additional living space, the comfort of living in which will be no worse than in the rest of the rooms of the house.