How to make a wooden frame for drywall. Assembling a frame from profiles for a plasterboard partition

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Drywall on a wooden frame: arguments and counter-arguments, restrictions and installation tips

When does it make sense to mount a drywall sheet on a frame in general, and on a wooden frame in particular? In what cases is it not advisable to use a wooden crate? How and from what it is correct to assemble a wooden frame for drywall? How to perform frame sheathing and puttying GKL? In my article I will try to answer these questions.

GKL against plaster

First, let's decide whether it is worth messing with drywall at all, or is it better to use plaster in the old fashioned way.

Here are the arguments in favor of the GKL:

• High finishing speed due to a large sheet area (3 square meters with a size of 2500x1200 mm);
• The ability to eliminate significant irregularities of the base at minimal cost. Say, with a height difference between adjacent elements of a slab floor of 8-10 centimeters (yes, yes, this happens), it is very expensive and unsafe to level the ceiling with plaster: falling plaster of such thickness can cause a lot of trouble.

But for the GKL on the crate, the state of the surface under it does not matter - if only there was something to attach the frame to;

• The surface of kraft paper (gypsum core shell) has excellent adhesive properties. You can glue wallpaper of any density on it using any wallpaper glue; the tile is also perfectly glued to cement tile adhesive or home-made cement-based mortar.

Curious: I used spot-applied silicone sealant to tile the drywall over the bathtub. It was also used to seal the joints between the tiles and adjoin the apron to the bath. All seams retain absolute tightness for three years of active use of the bathroom; The tiles are more than secure.

How does drywall compare to plaster?

1. mechanical strength. I will clarify: in this parameter, gypsum sheet material is second only to cement plaster. Using plasterboard for wall decoration in a gym or workshop is a dubious idea;
2. Resistant to water with constant contact with it. Alas, even moisture-resistant drywall tolerates only high humidity. It is worth immersing the gypsum core in water - and it will get wet just like any other gypsum product. Accordingly, it would be a bad idea to use drywall without the protection of a waterproof finish for the construction of shower walls;
3. Occupied usable area of ​​the room. Walls with minor irregularities in a small room are best leveled with a thin layer of plaster: after all, even glued directly to the wall, without a crate, a GKL sheet, taking into account the thickness of the glue, will shift the surface of each wall by at least 20 mm. When mounted on a frame, each wall will move to the center of the room already by 60 - 80 mm.

Frame against glue

When is it worth mounting drywall on the frame, and when is it better to glue it directly to the wall?

Everything is simple here: if the drops, blockages and curvilinearity of the base exceeds 40 - 50 millimeters, the frame is necessary. In other cases, glue is preferable: again, it will save room space.

There are, however, two more scenarios that will make you lean towards fastening the GKL along the crate:

1. Installation of plasterboard partitions. Here, comments seem to be not required: without a frame, its skin simply has nothing to attach to;
2. Laying behind the lining of the wall of communications - water supply, sewerage, electrical wiring, ventilation ducts, etc. Hiding them behind a false wall is much easier than ditching a main wall.

In some cases (for example, when it comes to a panel partition inside an apartment), strobes of considerable width and depth are impossible in principle.

Tree versus profile

In what cases is it permissible to install drywall on a wooden frame, and when is a galvanized profile preferable?

The bar has the only advantage - cheapness. In order not to be unfounded, I will give the average prices for a bar and a profile for the Moscow region:

Next: wood, unlike galvanized steel, hygroscopic, and is also capable of change its linear dimensions and geometry depending on air humidity. On the practical side, this means that in a damp room, a wooden crate can warp and bend the wall cladding, or even lead to cracks along its seams.

Finally the tree subject to biological influences: it rots and becomes food for woodworms. Again, unlike galvanized.

1. Drywall wood frame can be used only in dry rooms. For a bathroom, kitchen or combined bathroom, you should prefer a galvanized profile;
2. The elements of the crate before assembling it must be to be treated with an antiseptic.

Loophole

There is, however, an easy way to bring wood closer to a galvanized profile in terms of performance. In order for it to completely lose its hygroscopicity and the ability to deform with fluctuations in humidity, the bar is enough impregnate with drying oil: the oils that make it up will fill the pores between the fibers in the outer layer of the tree, forming a water-impermeable shell during polymerization.

This operation has several subtleties:

• Drying oil is best applied heated in a water bath. Then it penetrates deeper into the fiber structure; accordingly, the waterproof coating will be more durable;

• It is easier not to cover the ends of a bar cut to size with drying oil with a brush, but to dip it into a jar with it. It is the ends, due to the orientation of the fibers perpendicular to the surface, that are most vulnerable to moisture;
• Drying oil dries for several days and has a strong characteristic odor. For drying the bar, it is better to allocate a separate room with good ventilation.

Material selection

What exactly is the frame for drywall made of wood made of?

It was not in vain that I cited a 50x50 mm bar as an example of the price of a crate: it is he who is the most popular material for assembling the frames of partitions and crates (ceiling and wall).

With special requirements for the rigidity of the partition, it can also be assembled from a bar 50x100; in this case, the wide side is oriented perpendicular to the plane of the wall: this is how maximum resistance to side loads is achieved.

Finally, when mounting a wall batten, edged and unedged boards of arbitrary width can be used. It is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or even nails in wooden choppers.

Are there any requirements for the quality of wood?

When assembling the frame or when installing the crate on suspensions - yes.

Wood should not have defects from the following list:

• Rot and damage by woodworms;
• Oblique layer (significant deviation of the direction of the wood fibers from the longitudinal axis of the bar);
• Falling knots with a diameter of more than a third of the side of the bar.

The instruction is connected with the fact that all these defects have a detrimental effect on the strength of the frame. In addition, the moisture content of the wood should not exceed 20%: when drying, the bar often warps.

Frame mounting rules

Partition

The assembly of the partition frame begins with marking the fastening lines of the upper and lower trim on the ceiling and on the floor, as well as the extreme racks on the adjacent walls. To keep the lines strictly in the same plane, use a plumb line.

Then, strapping bars and extreme racks are attached to the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls. A damper tape is laid under them, which excludes the transmission of acoustic vibrations to the capital structures of the building and thereby contributes to sound insulation. Anchor bolts or conventional dowel screws can be used to fasten the harness and racks to the walls.

The next step is the installation of racks. The step between them is determined by the requirements for the rigidity of the partition and is 40 or 60 centimeters. The width of the sheet (120 cm) must be a multiple of this step so that the seam between adjacent sheets falls exactly in the middle of the rack.

The edges of adjacent sheets, if possible, should be attached to a common element of the frame or crate for them. In this case, the likelihood of cracks at the seams is minimal.

Connections of racks with strappings do not experience significant operational loads - they are taken over by the lining of the partition, drywall, therefore, any methods of fastening the racks are acceptable:

• Hammered or angled nails or self-tapping screws;
• An insert from a trimming bar, which is attached to the harness, after which the rack is attracted to it;

• Galvanized perforated lining;
• Furniture corners;
• Insert racks half a tree with landing on glue. However, it is not suitable for frame elements impregnated with drying oil: impregnation reduces the adhesive qualities of the adhesive.

For gluing dry wood, you can use both specialized wood glues and ordinary PVA construction glue. For our purposes, the strength of its seam is quite sufficient; drying glue takes no more than 12 hours.

How to install a door in a wooden frame partition?

1. In the lower trim, a pass is made for the width of the door with the box;
2. The door leaf is wedged in the box with wooden wedges. The goal is to leave gaps after installation that do not allow the door to overwrite jambs;
3. From one of the edges of the doorway, a rack adjacent to the box is mounted;
4. A strip of mounting foam is applied to the outer surface of the box, after which it is attracted to the rack with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the side of the rack, their length is selected so that they go deep into the box, but do not go through it;
5. On the second side of the opening, the second rack is mounted in the same way;
6. From above, the racks are connected by a jumper;
7. All connections of racks with strapping are reinforced with galvanized lining on self-tapping screws.

A light window (for example, in the wall of a bathroom) is installed in a similar way - adjusted for the fact that its frame rests on a horizontal jumper between the uprights.

Lathing on hangers

How to assemble a wooden crate for wall cladding with significant irregularities with drywall with your own hands?

1. The assembly of the frame in this case also begins with the attachment to the floor and ceiling of the lower and upper trims. A damper tape is also placed under them. The method of attaching the harnesses is the same as in the scenario discussed above;
2. Then, extreme racks are attached to the adjacent walls through the damper flight;
3. On the main wall, strictly vertically, along the plumb line, the positions of the intermediate racks are marked (I remind you, in increments of 40 or 60 cm from center to center of the bar);
4. Along each rack with a step of 80 cm, direct suspensions are fastened with dowel-screws;
5. The racks are set according to the markings, after which the ears of the suspensions are screwed to them with wood screws 25 mm long. The free part of the ears is bent to the wall. The frame is ready for sheathing.

Lathing on gaskets

With a relatively small curvilinearity of the wall, the crate can be attached to it without hangers, using spacers from scraps of wood or plywood. In this case, as I mentioned above, you can use not only a bar, but also an unedged board.

If necessary, lumber of any width can be cut into narrow boards or a bar with a conventional hand-held circular saw with a guide frame. Sawing one board takes no more than two to three minutes.

The crate is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or nails into pre-drilled holes with wooden chopsticks. The lower harness as such is missing; instead of it, short bars are drawn into the gap between the racks of the crate to the floor and ceiling, which will later serve to fasten the plinth and baguette.

Ceiling

The frame of a simple single-level flow is mounted in the same way as a crate on direct suspensions - adjusted for location in a horizontal plane. Thick (at least 15 mm) plywood is used to create a frame for the curved elements of a multilevel flow; when sheathing, the GKL is attracted by self-tapping screws to its end.

sheathing

How to mount drywall on a wooden frame?

For wall cladding, wall plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm is used. The ceiling is usually sheathed with ceiling plasterboard 9.5 mm thick. In dry rooms, ordinary GKL (white) is used, in wet rooms - moisture resistant (blue).

Let me remind you once again: in rooms with high humidity, the wooden frame must be consistently impregnated with an antiseptic and drying oil.

To fasten the sheet, wood screws 32 mm long are used. The length of the self-tapping screws exceeds that used when mounting on a profile. The step between adjacent attachment points is 15-20 centimeters; the average consumption of fasteners is 100 self-tapping screws per sheet 2500x1200 in size.

When installing additional sheets (if the height of the wall exceeds the length of the sheet), an additional bar is laid under the seam perpendicular to the uprights. Instead, you can use a piece of board or thick (from 12 mm) plywood. The main thing is that the edges of adjacent sheets are attached to a common frame element.

Where a wall or partition does not experience deforming loads (for example, under the ceiling), you can do without laying a bar under the transverse seam. In his absence, it is especially important to correctly perform the reinforcement, which I will talk about a little later.

In rooms with high traffic or with expected significant loads on the walls (kitchen, hallway, etc.), it is better to sheathe the frame in two layers. GKL of the first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 32 mm long; fastener consumption - 20-30 self-tapping screws per full-size sheet. The second layer of GKL is mounted with dressing of horizontal and vertical seams; for fastening, wood screws 45 mm long are used at the rate of 100 pieces per sheet.

How to cut drywall to the desired size?

• Curvilinear parts are cut with an electric jigsaw with a wood file. GKL is cut by him very quickly and without any effort, but when cutting, a huge amount of gypsum dust rises into the air. It settles on all surfaces in the room. Gypsum is especially destructive for the bearings of cooling systems for computers and laptops, so for the duration of the repair they must be kept turned off and covered with polyethylene;

• Along straight lines, the GKL is cut with a sharp knife along the ruler to a quarter of the thickness, after which it is broken at the edge of the table or any other suitable elevation.

After installation, the seams between the sheets cut to size are embroidered: a chamfer is sharply removed from the edges at an angle of 45 degrees to half the thickness of the sheet.

Reinforcement and puttying

A wall or partition sheathed with drywall is not yet ready for a fine finish: the caps of the screws and the seams between the sheets must be hidden with putty. In addition, the seams and outer corners of the walls need reinforcement and reinforcement.

Traditionally used for reinforcing seams sickle- self-adhesive fiberglass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh cells. It is necessary to putty at least twice: gypsum putty gives a small, but quite noticeable shrinkage during drying.

External corners are reinforced:

• Galvanized perforated corner profile;
• Plastic profile with mesh.

The corner is recessed in the putty applied to the corner, after which it is covered with another layer of it.

However: I prefer to use a decorative plastic corner pasted after puttying and painting on silicone sealant to protect the corners.

In the photo - the corner of the partition, protected by a decorative plastic corner.

What putty to use to level the surface?

The most common in Russia are gypsum putties produced by the German company Knauf - HP Finish and Fugen. However, I liked the cheaper and less common ABS Saten: the mixture lives noticeably longer (at least 45 minutes versus 25-30 for Knauf products), if necessary, can be diluted with water (which increases its life time to an hour or more) and does not give lumps when mixed.

How to prepare putty?

1. Water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of dry gypsum mixture is poured into a wide dish (I use a plastic paint bucket);
2. The mixture is poured into water, distributing as evenly as possible over its surface;
3. After 3-5 minutes, the swollen putty is mixed - manually (with a spatula) or with a mixer nozzle for a drill.

How and how to properly putty the seams, corners and caps of self-tapping screws?

• Hats are covered with two movements of a spatula 10-12 cm wide crosswise. The first sliding movement fills the recess with putty, the second ("to strip") removes its excess;
• The seams are also filled with cruciform movements of the same spatula. In this case, the seam is filled with putty as tightly as possible. Cavities in it increase the likelihood of cracks. With the second pass, the seam, together with the sickle reinforcing it, is covered with longitudinal movements of the spatula 30–35 cm wide;

• To align the outer and inner corners, it is better to use special corner spatulas.

After filling the seams and masking the caps of the GKL fasteners, they often putty over the entire area. A layer of putty about a millimeter thick completely masks the seams and does not allow the base to shine through the painting.

Next stage - grinding. GCR is ground with grids No. 80 in the first pass and No. 120 - 160 in the second pass. It is better to grind in bright oblique lighting, which will emphasize the slightest irregularities due to the shadows they cast. I use an inexpensive vibratory sander for grinding.

By the way: if necessary, intermediate grinding can be performed after filling the seams and sealing the screws. Its necessity is determined only by the state of the surface.

The smooth surface of the GKL is dedusted (I clean it of dust with an ordinary whisk) and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer. The primer will stick the remaining dust and improve the adhesion between the surface of the drywall and the finishing coat - paint or wallpaper.

Wallpaper can be glued immediately after the soil has dried, but painting will have to wait at least two weeks after puttying. If you hurry, the seams will show through any number of layers of paint due to moisture that has not completely evaporated.

Conclusion

I sincerely hope that I was able to answer all the questions that the dear reader has accumulated. As usual, the video in this article will offer additional information to your attention. Feel free to share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Today, any design ideas can be brought to life with the help of such a simple and popular material as drywall. It is now used everywhere: with the help of it, interior partitions are erected, window slopes are trimmed, walls are sheathed from the inside and out, the ceiling is trimmed, and interior decorative decoration of the room is also popular. There are several ways to cover walls with drywall: frameless connection and the use of a supporting frame. Most often, the second method is used for wooden surfaces, and wood is chosen as the frame material.

So that plasterboard wall cladding does not bring problems and pleases the eye for a long time, a number of very important points should be taken into account before starting work.

Wooden frame features:

1. First of all, you need to know that if you decide to install drywall on a frame made of wooden bars, then you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the room in which the work will be done. Remember that humidity adversely affects the frame made of wooden slats.
2. Carefully inspect the beams before buying: they must be free of cracks, chips and other damage.
3. The wood from which the slats and timber are made must comply with fire safety standards.
4. Before work, the tree must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition: this will increase its service life. It can be anything, but sodium fluoride is more often recommended.

We mount drywall on wooden slats: the pros of the solution

Despite the fact that many builders prefer metal as the basis for drywall constructions, wood also has its obvious advantages, which make a wooden frame a worthy competitor to a metal counterpart!

The advantages of a wooden frame over a metal one:

• Availability of material and its low cost.
• High construction speed.
• Environmental friendliness.
• Easy to operate.

Before you start working with wood, the slats will need to be left for a few days inside the room where the installation will take place, for acclimatization.

Finishing the walls in a wooden house with drywall: preparation for work

In any construction business, special tools are indispensable. To make the job go smoothly, purchase everything you need in advance. What you need in working with drywall is listed below.

Instruments:

1. Drill or screwdriver;
2. Hacksaw or jigsaw;
3. Roulette;
4. Marker or chemical pencil.

Materials:

• Wooden slats and bars;
• Self-tapping screws, screws;
• Metal corners.

Any finishing work begins, first of all, with the cleaning of work surfaces.

The first step is to remove the old coating from the walls, the remnants of insulation and sound insulation - in a word, any items that may interfere with the work process.

Before work, the walls must be coated with a special primer to prevent the appearance of fungi and mold.

How to sheathe a wooden house from the inside with drywall: we make a frame

When the walls are ready for work, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame itself from wooden beams.

We remind you that the slats must be pre-treated with an antiseptic, which will prevent rotting and destruction of the material.

A few tips before work:

1. The distance between the bars should be 40-60 cm.
2. The width of the rails themselves should be about 3-5 cm, but it should be borne in mind that at the joints of the drywall sheets, the thickness should not be less than 8 cm.
3. Fastening the rails is best done directly to the wooden wall and to each other. For these purposes, self-tapping screws are perfect.

The assembly of the frame itself should begin with the fastening of solid bars along the walls and ceiling. After that, you can proceed with the installation of rails, which will be located vertically. Next, we fix additional horizontal short jumper rails between the vertical bars. Between themselves, parts of the frame can be fastened with building corners and overlays, this will give it additional stability.

When carrying out work, vertical and horizontal rails must be installed strictly according to the level!

After that, if necessary, you will need to align the frame with the wooden wall. This is done as follows: bars of the required thickness are placed in the right places. After the installation of the frame is completed, you can begin to attach drywall sheets to the resulting slats and beams.

Drywall walls in a wooden house: preparing the material

• The edges of the drywall sheets should be in the middle of the spacers.
• Use an intermediate profile if necessary.

When leveling the walls, keep an eye on the distance between the screws: it should not exceed 25-30 cm.

Processing a wall or partition made of drywall in a wooden house

After the installation is completed, the joints between the drywall sheets and the holes from the self-tapping screws should be processed.

For this we need:

• Putty knife;
• Special putty;
• Reinforced tape or mesh;
• Electric drill with a nozzle for stirring putty.

You need to start work with the preparation of the putty mixture. We advise you to use a special putty for sealing seams. Also choose a spatula that is comfortable to work with. It should be with a flexible blade and a comfortable handle.

We apply the finished mixture with a spatula to the drywall seams, as if pressing it between them, then cut off a piece of tape of the desired size and glue it onto the treated seam. Treat the rest of the seams and joints in the same way. To fill the hole from the drywall screws, you need to apply a stack of putty to the right place, smoothing it in different directions. After carrying out all the necessary processes, you can optionally prepare a wall finished with plasterboard for further work. There can be a lot of finishing options, it all depends on your desire, imagination and possibilities.

How to sheathe walls with drywall with your own hands (video)

Practice shows that if you follow certain rules and technology when plastering wooden walls with drywall, the work will not take much time and will not be difficult. In addition, by installing drywall in a log house on a wooden frame with your own hands, you significantly save the family budget.

Interior decoration of a wooden house with plasterboard (photo of the process)

Despite the fact that there is currently a way to install drywall on a metal profile frame, many people prefer to mount this finish on a wooden crate.

It is preferable if you need to mount a single-level ceiling or just sheathe a wall. This method is cheaper, dried in a chamber does not deform, perfectly withstands such a load and is able to reliably serve for many years. In addition, such installation is simple, and it is chosen by those who lead the plasterboard sheathing on their own.

Installation of a rack frame for a suspended ceiling

• 1 Preparatory work.

  Before starting installation work, the lowest point of the ceiling is visually determined. Its design position is marked from it: 5 cm retreat, and with the help of a level, a horizontal line is drawn around the perimeter. If the work is done correctly, then the start and end points should match. A rail is attached along this horizontal with the help of self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter.

• 2 Installation of longitudinal rails.

  Next, you need prepare longitudinal slats for the crate. The profile is chosen from 30 * 40 to 50 * 70 cm. The finished length of each should be 1 cm less than the length of the ceiling. They are screwed with self-tapping screws at an equal distance from each other. Possible curvature of the ceiling surface is eliminated either by squeezing the rail, or small pieces of thick cardboard are placed in the cavities. Longitudinal rails are fastened with self-tapping screws to the ceiling surface.

• 3 Lathing installation.

  For wooden framing choose slats dried in a special drying chamber. This completely eliminates the possibility of their deformation. It must be remembered that the raw material, when dried, can lead to the loss of self-tapping screws from the body of the wood. If the material is of good quality, then slats are fixed in increments of 50 to 70 cm. For regions with a humid climate or if the room is not well ventilated, step is better to reduce to 40cm. It is not worth saving on self-tapping screws. In any case, reliable fastening of the frame rails to the ceiling will provide you with a long and trouble-free operation of the structure in the future.

• 4 Installation of longitudinal rails for connecting drywall sheets.

  Suitable size for work - 25 * 80 mm. The sheet fits comfortably on the wide side. In addition, it guarantees the reliability of the installation. It is necessary to mark the future location of the rails in such a way that the joint of the drywall sheets falls in their middle. After that, the electrical cables are laid and the installation of drywall begins.

With us you can install drywall only from high-quality lumber. It has undergone special drying in chambers, so its surface is dense with the required moisture level of 12-14%. The slats do not deform and easily withstand loads as a supporting frame. Mounting on wooden rails is simple, reliable and fast.

Working with us, you get the opportunity to purchase excellent goods at the lowest price and repair your home at no extra cost.

Plasterboard lining

Wall cladding with drywall is a practical and common way inside apartments and houses. GKL allows you to align walls and ceilings. A common method is when sheets are mounted on a frame made of wooden slats or metal profiles. If you need to save money or time, the question arises: is it possible to attach drywall directly to the wall? Yes, there are cases when the crate can be omitted. Alignment of walls with drywall without a frame is performed on almost even bases of various types. The photo below shows a room with plasterboard walls and ceilings.

Fastening drywall to a wall without a profile is the best option for flat surfaces. An important role is played by the degree of deviation from the plane. The frameless method of wall cladding is applicable if the differences do not exceed 5 cm. When they are larger, a crate is often installed.

Drywall is fixed on uneven planes using beacons. Thanks to this, the installation of sheets occurs immediately on the level. Without beacons, you can mount it, having a lot of experience, or in small areas.

You can control the degree of curvature of the base using the building level and a long rule.

Existing methods of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow you to mount it on different types of surfaces. It is possible to fasten sheets:

• to a brick wall;
• on partitions made of porous concrete, monolith, panels, limestone, shell rock, cinder block and plastered;
• on wooden surfaces.

Installation of plasterboard on foam concrete

Gluing sheets on a foam concrete base is shown in the photo above.

Finishing walls with drywall without a frame and a profile is beneficial for the following reasons:

• this method of finishing reduces the cost of material for the crate;
• money is also saved on its installation (if it was planned to involve a specialist);
• the volume of the room practically does not decrease;
• the terms of facing works are reduced, and the process itself is simplified.

The following requirements are imposed on surfaces that are planned to be sewn up with plasterboard sheets:

• the base must be strong, smooth, without significant defects and fungus;
• it is required that the wall surface be protected from moisture.

If the sticking method is used, then it is recommended to remove old paint, contaminants (dust, oil stains).

A big plus of finishing the walls with drywall without a frame with your own hands is that the process is faster and easier than if you need to pre-create the crate.

Preparatory activities

Before you fix this material to the wall without profiles, you should decide what thickness to choose drywall, prepare the required tools. Everything you need for different installation methods is presented in the table below.

Some of the tools and materials are used only for certain methods of installing GKL. Gypsum glue

The photo above shows a bag of gypsum glue used for drywall to glue it on.

In work, you can not do without a ladder, or other device for working at height.

Installation of drywall on walls without a frame requires compliance with a number of conditions:

• the temperature during work should exceed +10 degrees, therefore, at its lower values, it is necessary to take care of the organization of heating;
• it is necessary that the walls in the repaired room be dry;
• in the presence of high humidity in the rooms, moisture-resistant types of facing material are used;
• before installation, it is recommended that the sheets lie in the room for 3 days;
• the base for the installation of drywall must be integral, not fall apart, otherwise it will need to be pre-strengthened.

The quality of the result directly depends on how well the preparation was carried out. Due to the fact that all the necessary tools and materials will be pre-assembled, you will not need to be distracted during work. Maintaining the required microclimate is a prerequisite during the finishing.

Methods for fixing GKL without installing a frame

In practice, several methods are used on how to level walls with drywall without a frame. They differ in the materials used for this and the technology of work. Using the frameless method allows you to sheathe the walls or ceilings of rooms and offices, directly fixing the sheets on their surface.

In practice, 2 options are used on how to fix drywall without mounting the crate. However, different materials are used. Here's how you can attach sheets:

• self-tapping screws (for wood), or dowels;
• glue, "liquid nails", polyurethane foam.

Application of mounting foam

The photo above shows the application of mounting foam to the sheet, in order to then fix it on the wall.

The general scheme of work for any installation method:

• prepare the base;
• fix drywall;
• close up the joints.

Additional strengthening measures are not required. Installation methods can be combined with each other. So, the glued lining can additionally be fixed with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Depending on the variant of the subsequent cladding, the surface can be further puttied, and then sanded and primed.

The choice of one or another option is determined both by personal preferences, and by the evenness and material from which the partitions are built. So, drywall to a concrete wall (smooth) is glued or fixed with dowels. The leveled wooden surface is sheathed using self-tapping screws.

Fixing method with self-tapping screws, dowels

Sheathing walls with drywall without a frame using self-tapping screws is possible if there is a base made of a suitable material for this: wood, foam concrete or gypsum. The workflow consists of the following steps:

• existing protrusions are removed: wooden partitions are leveled by hewing them with an ax or a chisel with a hammer, and walls made of foam concrete (gypsum) with a puncher with an inserted chisel;
• fix plasterboard sheets in increments of 25-35 cm, using a checkerboard pattern of their location on the surface of the base, with hardware 3.9x25 mm or 3.9x35 mm long (on a flat wooden surface) and 3.9x45 mm (on aerated concrete, gypsum).

Fixing drywall with self-tapping screws

After tightening with a screwdriver, the head of the self-tapping screw should be slightly “drowned” in the facing.

The photo below shows the process of fixing a plasterboard fragment on a wooden ceiling.

It should be borne in mind that a strong tightening of the hardware at the locations of the depressions causes deformation of the material. To avoid this, the sheets fall short, leaving a slight gap between them and the surface. The strength of the structure being created will not decrease.

When it is impossible to screw self-tapping screws into the wall (the base is made of concrete, brick, cinder block), then the walls are leveled with drywall without a profile, using driven dowels for installation. Their length with non-plastered surfaces should be 6x40 mm or 6x60 mm. If the thickness of the cladding layer exceeds 2 cm, then hardware 6x80 or 8x100 mm is used.

The technology consists of the following operations:

• using a puncher or a hammer with a chisel, level the base, removing defective areas;
• when the sheet is installed, then a hole is drilled through it;
• insert the plastic part;
• clog or twist a metal core, placing a washer under the hat;
• thus, they sheathe the entire room, cutting the sheets if necessary.

The substrate for the head of the metal core can be made from a U-shaped fastening for the profile. To do this, it is cut into plates with metal scissors.

In places of depressions, the core is not finished off so that the sheet does not concave.

When all the sheets are attached, then proceed to sealing the seams. With even base surfaces, the use of hardware allows you to quickly sheathe a room or office space.

Gluing technology

To level the walls with drywall for glue, in addition to gypsum compositions, mounting foam and "liquid nails" are usually used. Home-made solutions are also used, for example, based on putty and PVA. At the same time, the techniques for applying the compositions to the surface of the installed material differ.

Before you start attaching drywall to the wall, you should prepare it in a special way. The process consists of the following steps:

• the working area is cleaned of old finishes (paint, wallpaper, defective plaster);
• close up cracks;
• apply two layers of primer;
• dowels are hammered in the corners (self-tapping screws are screwed in);
• using a plumb line or level, pull threads (thin ropes) between them;
• in a selected square lying at an angle of 90 ° relative to the floor, surface irregularities are considered;
• if deviations of more than 2 cm are detected, a substrate is prepared from fragments from the material to be installed (a sufficient width of the pieces is 10 cm);
• make markings for fixed drywall sheets on a wall without a frame.

When sketching the location of the fragments, the gaps between the edges of the plasterboard and the floor (0.7-1 cm), the ceiling (0.3-0.5 mm) are taken into account. Open areas (output of communications) are also taken into account when marking.

It is convenient to use a laser level for marking.

To attach drywall to a wall without a profile with deviations of more than 2 cm, it is recommended to install beacons. To do this, proceed as follows:

• stretch the thread horizontally in increments of 50 cm;
• under them (also after half a meter) glue beacons are applied;
• control the thread level;
• allow the beacons to dry before attaching the drywall to the unframed walls.

In the role of beacons, you can also use strips of gypsum board with a length along the height of the room, glued vertically every 50 cm. In addition to guiding functions, they serve as stops for leaning plasterboards.

Options for leveling the base by gluing GKL

The figure below shows the options for aligning walls of various curvature with plasterboard when it is mounted on glue.

• waiting for the primer to dry completely;
• apply a fragmentary adhesive mass (2 cm higher than the gap between the back side of the GCR and the base surface) at a distance of about 40 cm from each other over the entire surface of the sheet;
• in the same way, cover the base with the composition;
• press the plasterboard fragment against the wall;
• knock it out with a rubber mallet so that it leans against the beacons.

Installation of GKL on adhesive compositions is considered a more complicated and painstaking method, compared with fixing with dowels (self-tapping screws). It is recommended to use deep penetration primers with antiseptic properties for surface treatment before gluing.

The use of mounting adhesive to fix drywall is demonstrated in the video below.

Installation using mounting foam is shown in the following video.

The use of frameless methods allows you to both level the wall with drywall without a profile, and save money on work and material. The savings figure can reach almost 60% compared to the frame version. Sheets fixed according to the selected technology will hold securely. At the same time, work on your own is easier and faster (especially on level ground) than using a crate.

Related articles:

Drywall is probably the most popular residential sheet material. Traditionally, it is mounted on a crate or frame made of bar or galvanized profiles. In this article, I'm going to talk about what it looks like attaching drywall to a wall without a profile.

Installation of moisture-resistant drywall on a wall without a crate.

Why drywall

pros

1. Why exactly GKL is used for leveling and rough wall finishing?

Here are the arguments in his favor:

• Large sheet area reduces finishing time;

Reference: a standard GKL sheet measuring 2500x1200 mm has an area of ​​​​3 square meters. The sheet area of ​​3000x1200 is even more impressive - 3.6 m2.

Standard dimensions and weight of GKL.

• Drywall is permeable to air and water vapor. This means that the room will not be stuffy even with the windows closed. Of course, provided that the main walls have at least the same vapor and air permeability;

The vapor permeability of building envelopes must always increase from the inside out. Otherwise, instead of filtering water vapor into the street, the owner will receive its accumulation in the thickness of the wall. Humidification will contribute to a drop in thermal insulation qualities and a decrease in the service life of walls and ceilings.

Dependence of the state of enclosing structures on the vapor permeability of the layers of the wall, thermal insulation and finishing.

• The price of a GKL sheet looks very attractive against the background of plaster. According to Crimean rates, plastering a square meter of a wall costs at least 400 rubles without the cost of materials. At the same time, a sheet of ordinary, non-moisture resistant drywall with an area of ​​3 square meters can be bought for 300 rubles. Its installation on the wall, unlike its plastering, does not require experience and special skills;
• The GKL surface is compatible with any tile adhesives and is suitable for wallpapering on any wallpaper adhesive. Without exception, all putties also have excellent adhesion to kraft paper - the top layer of gypsum board;
• From a related material - a gypsum fiber sheet, drywall compares favorably in that even with cracks in the gypsum core, two layers of kraft paper keep it in the same plane. The broken sheet can be used to level the walls, provided that the broken area is securely fastened.

This feature of the material is useful when assembling arches: GKL is notched and bent, then its surface is leveled with puttying.

Minuses

1. Does the GKL have disadvantages that it is useful for the buyer to know about?

I would politically correct call them not shortcomings, but features of the material:

• All materials based on gypsum are not friendly with water. Yes, GKLV (moisture-resistant drywall) tolerates dampness well due to the low hygroscopicity of the core and antifungal additives in gypsum, but direct contact with water is also contraindicated for him;

However: the problem is successfully solved by using water-impervious materials in the finishing of the premises. In my bathroom, the plasterboard walls and ceiling are painted with rubber waterproofing paint, which allows them to withstand constant contact with splashes of water and occasional wet cleaning using any non-abrasive cleaners.

The wall above the tiled apron and the ceiling in the bathroom are painted with rubber water-dispersion paint.

• GKL has a very limited strength. Accidentally hitting a drywall wall while carrying furniture, it can be broken through. To increase the strength of the partitions, their sheathing along the frame is usually made in two layers; however, mounting to a wall without a profile implies mounting the sheet only and exclusively in one layer;
• It is problematic to hang a shelf or cabinet on a plasterboard partition or main wall after leveling the GKL. Of course, this problem also has a solution, which I will discuss in the corresponding section of the article; however, our material clearly loses in comparison with the main wall in terms of ease of installation of hanging furniture.

Cabinets are easier to hang on concrete or brick walls.

Mounting without profile

What is beneficial

1. Why do I need to install drywall on a wall without a profile?

There are at least two good reasons for this:

• Reducing installation costs. The average consumption of Perlfix gypsum adhesive, which (running a little ahead) is used for mounting drywall on main walls, is 5 kg / sheet at a cost of 30 kg bag from 285 rubles. Thus, the cost of installing one sheet (if, of course, all the work is done by hand) will be only 285/6 = 47.5 rubles;

Gypsum glue Perlfix. Packing - 30 kilograms, cost - from 285 rubles.

I will clarify: in practice, the consumption of glue can increase markedly with significant unevenness of the base. In addition, I did not take into account the cost of priming the wall (however, very insignificant).

At the same time, to mount the same sheet on a crate from a ceiling profile, you need:

Lathing for drywall made of galvanized profile.

At the most humane prices I found (they are offered by the Leroy Merlin online store), this set will cost about 250 rubles;

• In addition, fixing drywall to the wall without profiles will significantly increase the free space of the room. Let's do one more simple calculation: find out how much space the frame will take up with an average distance from the wall to the GKL sheet of 5 centimeters and a room size of 4x5 meters.

The perimeter of the room is 4+4+5+5=18 meters; the total area of ​​the gap between the wall and drywall is 18 m x 0.05 m = 0.9 m2. Almost 1/20 of the area of ​​​​the room will be inaccessible for use only thanks to the crate.

If you glue the GKL directly on the walls, the cost of the usable area will be limited only by the size of the irregularities on the main wall (as a rule, no more than 5 - 10 mm).

Restrictions

1. How to find out if the plasterboard can be mounted directly on the wall?

It's simple: if the curvilinearity, blockage or differences in the wall do not exceed 5 centimeters, you can do without the crate. If the size of the irregularities is larger, it is still better to assemble the frame from the profile: the cost of funds and room space will be comparable or change in favor of mounting on the crate.

The long rule and the level will help to assess the curvature and blockage of the walls.

1. On which walls can drywall be mounted without crates?

Different ways of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow installation:

• On the main walls and partitions made of brick, limestone, shell rock, concrete (panels and monolith), gas and foam concrete;
• On wooden partitions (frame and plank, plastered and unplastered).

Partitions in stalinkas - plank, plastered on shingles.

Technology

For self-tapping screws

1. How to install drywall on a wooden partition in stalinka?

If it does not have significant irregularities, the gypsum board can be fixed with self-tapping screws directly to the wall surface. When decorating the walls in the kitchen of one of my old apartments, I did not even knock down the plaster; because of its thickness, I had to use self-tapping screws 70 mm long for fastening.

1. What screws to use?

Black phosphated. On wood or plasterboard - it doesn't matter: they differ only in the thread pitch. Self-tapping screws for GVL and drywall have a smaller pitch, due to which it is more difficult to push the sheet through with a hat.

1 - self-tapping screw for drywall and GVL, 2 - self-tapping screw for wood.

1. How to screw screws?

Only with a screwdriver - cordless or mains powered. After screwing hundreds of self-tapping screws onto one sheet of drywall with a screwdriver, hands feel, frankly, not very good.

Cordless drywall screwdriver.

1. Is it necessary to reinforce the seams with this installation method??

Necessarily, because with fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometry of wooden partitions will inevitably change. How to do this, I will tell a little later.

1. How to level a wall with drywall without a profile if it is made of bricks or foam blocks? How to fix the GKL?

It can be attached:

• On the gypsum glue already mentioned by me;
• On mounting foam;

Mounting foam has excellent adhesion to any surfaces.

• If the base has irregularities of no more than 3-5 mm - on liquid nails or any other construction adhesive.

On glue

1. How to attach drywall to a wall without a profile using liquid nails?

• The base is cleaned from peeling plaster, dirt, glossy paint and other weak and low-adhesion coatings;
• Protrusions with a height of more than 3-5 millimeters are removed with a chisel or perforator;
• The wall is primed over the entire area with acrylic penetrating primer. It is necessary to primer twice without intermediate drying. The primer will stick the remaining dust and strengthen the surface, preventing the GKL from peeling off along with the top layer of the base. The primer is applied with a sprayer, a long-haired roller or a soft wide brush;

Primer of the main wall under the GKL sticker.

• After the soil has completely dried, the recesses in the wall with a width of more than 10 centimeters are sealed with a cement-sand mortar. You can use a homemade solution of Portland cement and sifted sand in a ratio of 1: 3, as well as any cement plaster or putty;
• The seal after drying is re-primed;
• After the soil has completely dried, glue is applied to the back surface of the drywall sheet in strips. The step between the strips is 10-15 cm;

So liquid nails are applied to the back surface of the sheet.

• The sheet is pressed tightly against the wall and supported by several inclined boards at different heights.

On the foam

1. How to fix drywall with foam?

Foam differs from liquid nails and other building adhesives in two ways:

• It perfectly fills all the recesses in the wall. If so, they can not be sealed - it is enough to remove protrusions with a height of more than 5 millimeters;
• The foam expands upon setting. Therefore, we will have to fix the sheet against the wall for 30 - 60 minutes after it is pasted.

How to do it? Here is a simple instruction:

• Putting the sheet against the wall and supporting it with a pair of inclined boards, mark and drill 8 holes for dowel screws measuring approximately 8x80 mm in the sheet and the wall at an equal distance from each other;
• Apply foam on the back of the sheet - dotted with a step of 20 cm or stripes around the perimeter and inside the sheet;
• Press the sheet against the wall and fix it with dowel screws. Their hats do not need to be heated below the surface level, as when mounted on a frame: after the foam has set, the screws can be removed or, conversely, screwed to the level of the main wall and hide the holes with putty.

Plasterboard slopes are planted on mounting foam and fixed with dowel-screws for the time of its setting.

The position of the sheet strictly in the vertical plane must be controlled by a long level or a rule and a plumb line. Dowel screws will not allow drywall to bend in the direction from the wall, and the expansion of the mounting foam will prevent bending in the opposite direction.

For gypsum glue

1. How to fix drywall on a wall without a profile on gypsum glue?

First of all: not only specialized glue (Perlfix, Volma Montazh, etc.) is suitable for this purpose, but also any gypsum putty or plaster. Their price is approximately equal to the cost of glue, adhesive qualities also practically do not differ.

Plaster or putty can successfully replace gypsum glue.

Work in this case also begins with the preparation of the wall. It must be cleaned of dirt, dust-free and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer twice.

The adhesive composition is prepared as follows:

• Glue, plaster or putty is poured into a wide container with water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of the mixture. They are as evenly distributed as possible over the surface of the water;

The dry mixture is poured into water. If you pour water into gypsum glue, a lot of dry lumps will remain at the bottom of the container.

• Then the future glue is aged for 3-5 minutes. During this time, the maximum volume of the dry mixture should be saturated with water;
• The mixture is mixed manually (with a spatula or trowel) or with a mixer. A drill with an appropriate nozzle will also work. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous consistency without lumps is obtained.

Glue can be applied with equal success both to the wall and to the sheet itself. It seems to me more convenient to apply to the wall: GKL already weighs 30 kg, and together with glue it becomes quite massive and inconvenient to move. The glue should be applied in blotches in increments of 15 - 20 centimeters; a solid roller is needed only at the level of the plinth - it will significantly simplify its fastening with dowels and screws.

So gypsum glue is applied to the surface of the GKL.

Then the sheet is pressed against the wall and leveled using a level and a rule in a vertical plane. As a rule, he does not need additional fixation: the viscosity of the adhesive ensures the stability of the position. The position and bend of the GKL are corrected with light strokes of the palm or a rubber mallet.

By the way: I used the same method of fixing drywall when finishing door and window slopes. The final gypsum putty Eurogypsum was used as glue.

The slopes of the doorway in the photo are finished with drywall, planted on the Eurogips finishing putty.

A couple of nuances:

• When mounting adjacent sheets, special attention must be paid to the relative position of their edges. The differences will have to be removed with a thick layer of putty, which will unnecessarily increase the cost of money and time for finishing;

The edges of adjacent sheets must be strictly in the same plane.

• On a curved wall with significant differences, it is worth first sticking beacons from GKL scraps on the same gypsum glue or putty. For the same purpose, dowel-screws partially screwed into the wall can also be used; the position of the sheet is corrected by screwing them in and out a few turns.

The sheets are aligned in the same plane with the help of improvised beacons.

Sealing and puttying

1. How to seal seams between adjacent sheets?

Drywall (even moisture resistant) has a certain hygroscopicity and slightly changes its linear dimensions with fluctuations in humidity. The same thing happens with temperature changes: thermal expansion has not been canceled. Periodic changes in the dimensions of adjacent sheets sooner or later lead to the appearance of cracks along the seams separating them.

A few years after finishing the room, cracks appeared at the seams without reinforcement.

So that the seams do not crack, they need to be reinforced. For this purpose, a sickle is traditionally used - a rolled self-adhesive glass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh.

Reinforcement of the seam with sickle.

The seam is puttied in at least two passes. The cavity of the seam is filled with putty with the first pass, the fiberglass mesh reinforcing the seam is covered with the second pass. Sometimes a third pass is required: when drying, the putty shrinks slightly, but noticeably, and the seam after it has set looks concave.

The preparation and use of putty has several subtleties:

• It is prepared in small batches. The specific size of a single serving of putty depends on your puttying skills. It seems to me convenient to use no more than one and a half kilograms of dry mixture at a time;

Putty is prepared in small portions. The life time of the finished mixture does not exceed 30 - 40 minutes.

• Wash dishes and spatulas before preparing each new serving. Otherwise, the old putty will form hard lumps in the solution. These lumps, when putty is applied to the GKL, will leave untidy furrows in it;
• To fill the seam, it is convenient to use a spatula with a width of 10 - 12 cm. The seam is filled with sliding movements crosswise; in this case, both sides of it are filled with putty as evenly and densely as possible;

The edges of the sheets cut to size before puttying are cut with a sharp knife.

• The second (covering) layer of putty is applied with movements along the seam with a spatula 30-35 centimeters wide. Putty is previously applied to it with a narrow spatula.

I prefer to reinforce the seam not with sickle, but with rolled fiberglass: due to the smaller thickness of the material, the seam stands out less on the surface of adjacent sheets. Fiberglass is denser than a mesh and does not allow filling a seam through it, so the reinforcement technology differs markedly from the one I described above:

• The seam is filled with putty (taking into account its shrinkage during drying - twice);
• Then fiberglass is glued along the seam. Glue - diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 PVA. It is applied to the fiberglass laid on top of the drywall scraps with a wide brush;

Rolled fiberglass. Due to its smaller thickness, it gives a more accurate seam compared to sickle.

It is more convenient to cut fiberglass for stickers in pieces about a meter long.

• The reinforcing tape is pressed against the seam and smoothed out with a rubber or steel spatula. If you do it with your bare hands, there will be a lot of the thinnest fragments of fiberglass in the skin. These splinters are not very painful and come out quickly, but they noticeably interfere with work;
• After the glue has dried (it takes no more than an hour), the seam is covered with the final layer of putty and polished.

1. Do I need to putty the entire surface of drywall?

This is not required, but desirable. Putty creates a separating layer on the surface, which allows, if necessary, to peel off the wallpaper without peeling off the top layer of kraft paper. In addition, puttying the surface will reliably mask the seams that stand out.

Plastering plasterboard walls.

It is convenient to use a special corner spatula to align the corners.

Puttying the surface is easiest to do in two layers “on a peel”: the putty is applied with a narrow spatula to a wide one and spread on the gypsum board with sliding movements as thin as possible. After drying the first layer, the operation is repeated again.

There should be at least two weeks between plastering the drywall and painting the walls with water-based paint. During this time, the remaining moisture will completely leave the seams. If you hurry with painting, the seams will stand out in a dark tone with any number of dye layers.

1. How to sand?

I use for this purpose a vibrating sander with sanding grids No. 80 (first pass) and No. 120 (second pass) fixed to it. Sanding is best with the brightest possible light, directed at an oblique angle to the surface: it will allow you to see the slightest irregularities due to cast or shadows.

Even an inexpensive vibrating grinder will greatly speed up the work compared to a hand grater.

Do not be too lazy to put on goggles and a gauze bandage or a respirator. Gypsum dust strongly irritates the eyes and mucous membranes.

Comrades! Do not neglect personal protective equipment!

Hanging furniture

1. How to fix a hinged shelf or cabinet on a wall pasted over with plasterboard?

If the wall is sheathed with GKL on self-tapping screws or pasted over with building glue, there will be no problems in principle: the sheet is tightly pressed against the wall, which makes it possible to use ordinary dowel-screws of increased length for installation.

Foam or gypsum glue means that there is a gap between the sheet and the main wall, allowing the drywall to be washed during installation.

At the stage of wall sheathing, the problem is solved in two ways:

• In the place of the intended attachment of the hanging furniture, a continuous layer of gypsum glue, plaster or putty is applied to the back side of the plasterboard or to the wall;

The more often glue cakes are applied, the greater the load the lining will withstand.

• The GKL section is cut out, and instead of it, a wooden embedded part of the appropriate thickness is attached to the wall with dowel screws or anchors.

The latter method will also work if the drywall is already fixed: it is enough to cut it with a sharp knife around the perimeter of the embedded part and cut out the gypsum glue with a chisel, after which the mortgage from a bar or thick plywood is attached directly to the wall.

Finally, to attach hanging furniture directly through the drywall and the gap between it and the main wall, you can use elongated anchors with a couple of additional threaded nuts. The fixing angles of the cabinets are clamped between these nuts.

To fasten the cabinet, it is enough to supply the wedge anchor with a couple of additional nuts.

For light shelves, Molly anchors can be used. They only stick to drywall.

Conclusion

I hope that my simple advice will help the dear reader in finishing his own home. As always, I would appreciate your comments and additions. Additional information will be offered to your attention by the video in this article. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Not a single repair in our time is complete without drywall. Walls are constantly sheathed with this material, various structures are made from it and ceilings are finished with it. As a rule, for the installation of drywall sheets, a frame is pre-mounted on which the material is fixed. Increasingly, however, people are looking to attach drywall to a wall without a profile. What is it connected with? First of all, with the desire to save time, money and labor resources.

But can drywall be fixed directly to the wall? The question is ambiguous. Experienced craftsmen recommend mounting a metal or wooden frame and only then fixing gypsum boards on it. However, with proper installation, it is possible to install drywall on walls without a frame. Nevertheless, it is better to think it over several times, and if only if the solution has no alternatives to get down to business, since fixing the GKL without a frame just for the sake of saving can result in high costs in the future. You can fix drywall in this way, for example, if you are doing repairs in small rooms, such as bathrooms, toilets, balconies, then the frame will steal precious space.

One of the exotic ways to fasten drywall without a profile is to glue it on a mounting foam.

Conditions for fastening without profiles

In order to attach directly to the wall GKL or GVL, a number of necessary conditions must be observed, without which this procedure is simply impossible.

The wall should be vertical and perfectly flat, that is, not have any even the slightest slope. There are situations when the wall does not stand evenly enough and in such cases it is carried out, the frame is partially installed. Metal profiles in this installation option serve only as an equalizer for the wall.

The height of the room should not exceed the length of the drywall sheet. The problem here is that when installing drywall sheets, it is understood that the joints of different pieces of drywall will be located along transverse metal profiles. If you fasten the sheets directly to the wall, then you should not have transverse joints at all, since there will be nothing to fasten them to.

If the wall has minor irregularities from two millimeters to two centimeters, then there is an option to level it with a starting putty, in which ten to fifteen percent of gypsum must first be added. For fixing drywall, it is recommended to use ready-made adhesive mixtures. The mixture must be applied around the perimeter of the entire sheet, as well as in one continuous strip in its center.

If the irregularities are much larger, then plasterboard beacons can be used instead of frame profiles. They are drywall, cut into squares or rectangles of ten to twenty centimeters and serve to level the wall with drywall sheets without a frame.

After the adhesive mixture dries, the drywall sheets are again fastened with dowels in the corners and in the center. The dowels are fastened so that they go into the wall by at least forty millimeters.

After the final installation of the sheets has been carried out, it is necessary to putty the connecting seams, as well as glue the mesh.

Related video to help

Required Tools

For finishing, you will need some non-standard tools. It is better to prepare them in advance.

• Knife, with replaceable blades for cutting drywall sheets;
• Electric jigsaw or saw for working with drywall;
• Strong thread. It will come in handy to create a plane level;
• Nails or screws;
• Building level;
• Simple pencil;
• Plumb;
• Scraper to clean the edges of the drywall sheet;
• Drill, whisk and bucket to dilute and stir the solution;
• Putty knife. It is better to take two spatulas - wide and narrow;
• Rubber mallet;
• Ordinary hammer;
• Pliers;
• Phillips screwdriver.

Let's also look at the materials that will be used in the course of work.

• Plasterboard sheets;
• Glue, for working with plasterboard sheets. You can also use the starting putty if you add ten percent gypsum or PVA glue to it;
• Water;
• Primer;
• Dowels. The size of each dowel should be from eighty to one hundred and twenty millimeters;
• Serpyanka;
• Glue.

Preparation for installation

If you are going to drywall a brick or concrete wall, then it must first be cleaned and sprayed with mortar. Then the surface needs to be primed. Soil must be diluted strictly in accordance with the instructions specified by the manufacturer. If it is written on the package that the primer is ready for use, then nothing needs to be diluted. You can immediately start processing the wall.

If the old plaster has been preserved on the wall, it is tedious to carefully examine it in order to identify weak points and treat them with a mortar, and then with a primer.

It is categorically impossible to attach drywall sheets to walls in rooms in which there is constant dampness. And also it is impossible to carry out this type of repair if condensation remains on the walls of the room. This will seriously damage the fastening of the sheets. In such rooms, it is necessary to use a special moisture-resistant drywall and fasten it only to the frame.

Before fixing drywall, it is necessary to inspect with the help of a level and a plumb line for deviations from the vertical and in the alignment. If it is possible, then all the convex places must be knocked down, and the depressions should be covered with mortar in order to perfectly level the surface before starting installation.

After priming, with a pencil or chalk, markings are applied to the wall. If you do this before priming, then all the drawings will simply wash off. Sheets of drywall, on the side of attachment to the wall, must also be lubricated with a primer before attachment. Lighthouses need to be cut out of drywall sheets and lubricated with a primer on both sides.

If this is necessary, the next step in the installation is the installation of electrical wiring. In cases where the wire must pass on the ledges of the wall, it must be drowned in drywall. To do this, you will have to make special grooves in the sheet.

Mounting on flat and curved surfaces

If the wall surface is relatively flat, then beacons will not have to be used. Use a mixer to mix dry powder in water to make glue. If you do not have a mixer, then you can make the glue by hand, but then the process will take much more time and effort.

If you decide to add PVA glue to the putty, then first you need to dilute the glue in water, and only then pour the dry powder. If you do the opposite, then the putty will harden very quickly and turn into a stone. Naturally, after that, it can no longer be used for its intended purpose.

Apply glue to drywall sheets in one continuous strip around the entire perimeter on all edges. In the center of the sheet, you also need to apply several cakes from the solution in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the cakes should be about forty centimeters. To make the fastening sufficiently reliable, you need to glue more than a tenth of the surface of the drywall sheet with glue.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Attach the sheet to the wall strictly vertically. It must be attached and pressed against the wall. It is best if someone will help you with this, since it is problematic to do this process alone. Check how firmly the sheet is attached. If you have any doubts, then press it harder on those places where the lag occurs. Just enough solution is applied to the sheet to allow for this post-adjustment. If the solution is not enough, then theoretically the sheet can be peeled off, but it is better to avoid such situations, since the plasterboard sheet can simply break during the peeling process.

If the wall is tilted or rotated, then beacons will have to be used. Use a strong thread to make a net indicating the desired verticality and flatness. Next, the beacons are installed in the right places. You need to install them so that they touch the thread frame. Then drywall sheets are attached in the same way as in the first option. After that, fix the problem areas with dowels, and seal the seams with putty and sickle.

If you attach drywall sheets to a wooden wall or ceiling, then everything is much easier. To install such a sheathing, it is enough to fasten the sheets to the wall with self-tapping screws or screws. If the wooden wall is not even, then this is corrected by applying additional wooden lining, and all the bulges can be removed with a regular planer.

As you can see, there are different ways to install drywall sheets, but the most reliable way to install GKL is to install it on a metal frame. Only in this way will the sheets hold firmly enough.

Successful perception of the repair and construction work carried out. Even the most sophisticated finishing materials will lose all their gloss against the background of depressions or bumps in wall planes. Therefore, the alignment of the walls during the repair can be considered a priority. For its implementation, drywall is the best suited.

GKL, as a finishing material, does not need special advertising. Moisture-resistant, ordinary, fire-resistant - for any room you can choose drywall of the required quality. For bathrooms - moisture resistant, for the corridor - fire-resistant, common for living rooms.

Standard sizes 600x1250, 1200x2000, 1200x2500, 1200x3000 allow the use of this material with virtually no waste. After minimal processing, the surface of the sheets is ready for wallpapering, applying textured plaster, and laying tiles.

There are two ways of fastening the GKL to the walls - frame and frameless.

1. The first option is much more suitable for large rooms where there is no space limit. The profile frame and the drywall mounted on it take at least 40 mm of the floor and ceiling from each wall (27 mm - profile + 12.5 mm - GKL).
2. The frameless method allows you to fix drywall sheets directly to the vertical surfaces of a room or office. In addition to saving space, this method is more profitable from an economic point of view. The financial component of the frame is 60% of the cost of walls assembled from plasterboard.

There are three options for frameless installation of drywall sheets on walls:

• Fastening sheets with self-tapping screws.
• Installation of plasterboard dowels.
• Gluing drywall.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the alignment of the walls with drywall sheets, it is necessary to make a general analysis of the proposed activities and choose a method for their implementation.

The overall assessment of the situation includes:

• Checking the verticality of the walls. Produced using a level or plumb.
• Inspection of the plane of the walls. It is performed with a long rule, or with a stretched cord. The presence of bumps and depressions is revealed.
• Checking outside and inside corners. It is carried out in order to determine deviations from geometric correctness (often it is 90 degrees). The tool is most often a square.
• Assessment of door and window openings. A check is made vertically and horizontally and the need to adjust the openings with the help of GKL is determined.

Depending on the identified deviations and the condition of the walls, the alignment method is selected. Small errors can be completely eliminated by fixing sheets of drywall directly to existing walls. Large drops and irregularities will require either a frame or GKL installation on a special glue.

Installation of drywall sheets with self-tapping screws

This installation option is possible only if there is a base into which self-tapping screws can be screwed. It can be wood, aerated concrete blocks or plaster partitions.

Preliminary preparation for installation work will consist in the removal of protruding sections of the wall plane. The tubercles of the wooden base are leveled with a hammer and a chisel, it is also possible to use a hatchet. Foam concrete and gypsum partitions are easiest to process with a puncher with a chisel.

Sheets of drywall are attached in a checkerboard pattern. Hardware for fastening are wood screws. The screw length varies depending on the wall material. For facing a relatively flat wooden surface, self-tapping screws 3.9x25 and 3.9x35 mm are suitable.

Self-tapping screws 3.9x45 mm are used for mounting GKL on aerated concrete and gypsum partitions. When tightening the screws, it is necessary to monitor the depth of the recessed head of the hardware. It is considered normal if the screw is immersed in drywall by 1 - 2 mm. The fastening step is about 250 mm at the edge of the sheet and 250 - 350 mm at its center.

Particular attention should be paid to the attachment points of the GKL in the areas - depressions. Strongly tightened self-tapping screws simply deform drywall. As a result, it will exactly repeat the relief of the uneven walls.

In such cases, it makes sense not to reach the hardware, leaving a small space between the base and the sheets. This will not greatly affect the strength of the structure, but the number of layers of putty for leveling will significantly reduce.

GKL fastening with dowels

If it is not possible to screw self-tapping screws into walls and partitions, then drywall can be mounted on dowels. For non-plastered brick, concrete and cinder block bases, driven dowels 6x40 or 6x60 mm are used. When the walls are plastered, and the plaster layer reaches 20 mm, you will have to use hardware 6x80 and even 8x100 mm.

The preparation of seats for the installation of dowels is carried out by a perforator with a drill of the appropriate diameter. The hole is drilled through a sheet of drywall installed in place. The plastic clip should have a “sweat” ending.

It is advisable to tighten the metal core with a screwdriver or screwdriver. Sometimes it is impossible to tighten the self-tapping screw and you have to resort to the help of a hammer. In this case, it is advisable to put a homemade washer - a gasket under the screw head. Such washers can be made from a U-shaped bracket for plasterboards. To do this, the bracket is cut with scissors for metal into several plates, and a self-tapping screw is threaded into the existing holes.

As in the case of mounting sheets on self-tapping screws, depressions on the plane of walls and partitions can become a problem. The recipe for elimination is to not pull the dowel core all the way.

Installation of drywall on the adhesive mixture

Such an assembly is the most difficult and painstaking way to level walls with drywall without a frame. Installation is carried out in the following order:

1. Inspection of the leveled surface. Includes the definition of protruding places of walls and piers. In these areas, the amount of adhesive applied will be minimal. Identification of areas with swollen plaster and putty. Such places will need to be cleaned up.
2. Surface preparation for installation. Mechanical removal of old wallpaper, tiles, loose plaster. Notching sections of walls covered with oil or pentaphthalic paints.
3. Priming of walls and partitions. As a primer, it is better to use a deep penetration primer. For areas covered with paint, concrete contact can be used.
4. Installation of beacons. The main task of such an event is to create points of support for the back side of the GCR. Lighthouse marks can be plastic clips of dowels with self-tapping screws screwed into them. The heads of the hardware should create a plane on which the drywall will be mounted.
5. Installation of drywall sheets. A special adhesive mass is applied both to the wall and to the plasterboard. The glue is applied not in a continuous layer, but in fragments. The distance between such fragments is 30 - 40 cm. The height is 15 - 20 mm more than the gap between the base and the back of the drywall. The sheet is pressed against the wall, and the correctness of its installation is checked by a rule with a level.
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