How to insulate walls in a private house from the outside: a description of technologies and installation methods. The cheapest house insulation Warming of the finished house

As soon as we decide to insulate the house, a huge pile of questions appears in our head:

• How to insulate walls?
• How to insulate walls?
• What is the best way to insulate, outside or inside?
• But will the house become warmer, and will I not throw money away?

In this article I will try to answer all these questions in as much detail as possible, as well as talk about the currently popular materials for insulation.

How to properly insulate the walls of the house, outside or inside

Try to ask any builder how best to insulate the walls of the house, outside or inside? The answer will be obvious. Everyone knows that it is necessary to insulate walls from the outside, and to resort to thermal insulation of walls from the inside only in extreme cases. But at the same time, not everyone knows why the thermal insulation of the walls from the inside of the house is so undesirable.

Let's try to figure it out. The diagram shows three states of the wall of the house, with insulation from the outside, from the inside and no insulation at all:

Speaking in ordinary human language, the dew point is the place where water vapor turns into water, thereby creating condensate.

If you look at the diagram, you can see that to the left of the dew point is a positive temperature, and to the right - negative.

When insulating from the inside:

1. The wall remains unprotected by domestic heat, since the heat barrier from the insulation will not let it into the wall. Thus, in winter, it will be largely subject to frost, constant moisture, and will not have time to dry out, since we blocked the way from the inside with a heater to the heat that protected the wall earlier.
2. In the place of the dew point, condensate collects (air water vapor is converted into water droplets), this point will be as close as possible to the room, which means that the formation of moisture in this place will be maximum. As already mentioned, the insulation from the inside will interfere with the natural drying of the wall.
3. The constant formation of condensate, without natural drying, can lead to the appearance of various kinds of fungi and mold on the wall. Do not console yourself with the fact that the fungus is behind the insulation and nothing terrible will happen. Mold and various kinds of green-black formations on the wall adversely affect not only the appearance, but also the health of the residents of such a house.
4. If you look at the diagram, it shows that even without insulation, there will be less moisture on the wall from the inside than with insulation from the inside.

When insulating from the outside:

1. From the side of the street, the wall is protected by insulation from the cold, and given the technology of insulation, and from moisture, and from the side of the room - with domestic heat, which warms up the wall sufficiently and even in cases of various kinds of condensate and moisture absorption by the wall, will contribute to its rapid drying.
2. We take the dew point away from the room towards the street, which means that we also take the condensate away from the room.
3. Insulation from the outside will greatly preserve the warmth and comfort in your home.

I think now it has become clear to everyone why everyone refuses to warm the walls of the house from the inside, and more and more often resort to warming from the outside. And it is necessary to insulate the walls from the side of the room only if there is no other way out.

How to properly insulate walls with expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) from the outside

I described in detail about the insulation of walls with polystyrene foam in one of my previous articles. Here I will mention some of the main points.

Preparing the wall for the installation of insulation

The first thing to do before insulating the walls with polystyrene foam or EPS is to clean the walls of the house from the outside of dirt, dust and, which is not unimportant, trim them. After that, they must be primed if you use glue to install the insulation.

If there are significant holes on the wall that you cannot level with glue, then after installing the insulation, a void may remain between the expanded polystyrene plate and the wall. And this is highly undesirable, because even a light blow or push on the insulation to the place where the hole is, can deform or break it.
If a small tubercle comes across during the insulation process, it will be difficult for you to glue the expanded polystyrene sheet in that place tightly to the wall.

Installation of expanded polystyrene and EPS on the wall

Styrofoam, as a rule, is glued to the wall with a special glue for polystyrene foam boards, and sometimes with special "fungi".

In the case of insulation of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), it is necessary to make the surface on which the adhesive will be applied rough. There are no such problems with foam plastic, the glue sticks it well without additional processing, and XPS has a smoother surface, so it needs to be processed.

Very often, for reinforcement, polystyrene foam is attached simultaneously to both glue and “fungi”, which is the most reliable and correct solution.

After installing the insulation, as a rule, the walls are plastered from the outside, or lined with facing bricks.

Styrofoam insulation with wooden slats

There is another type of installation of polystyrene foam boards - using a frame made of rails or other suitable material.

Rails are mounted to the wall, the thickness of which should not be less than the thickness of the insulation, and even better, that it be larger to create a ventilated space between the polystyrene foam and the cladding. The distance between the slats is chosen so that the polystyrene boards are tightly inserted between them without falling out.

This type of installation is acceptable if you do not plaster or brick the walls, but sheathe them with siding, for example. In this case, the slats will also become the basis for fixing facing materials.

How to properly insulate walls from the outside with mineral wool

Another popular insulation for the walls of the house are mineral wool insulation.

Wall insulation with mineral wool differs from wall insulation with polystyrene foam boards, primarily because of the characteristics of the heaters themselves.

Mineral wool, unlike expanded polystyrene, is not a sufficiently rigid insulation, therefore, the installation of mineral wool is carried out, as a rule, by the frame method. But if the cotton insulation is of sufficient density, then the builders also do not disdain mounting on glue.

A frame is constructed from slats or small bars, and mineral wool is laid or rolled between them.

If the wall is concrete or brick, the bars are attached to the wall with dowel-nails. Well, if the wall of the house is wooden, then with self-tapping screws.
Additionally, you can fix the mineral wool with “fungi” so that it does not roll down.

Since wool insulation absorbs moisture very well, it will be necessary to provide waterproofing on top of the insulation. Without this, mineral wool will absorb moisture from the street and you can forget about the effect of warming.

It is also desirable to build a more or less reliable protection against various rodents by installing metal strips along the edges of the wall.

When facing the walls from the outside with brick, the insulation is laid between the main wall and the cladding, while these two walls are connected with special bundles that pierce the mineral wool and at the same time hold it inside the wall, preventing it from rolling down in the future.

Wall insulation from the outside with polyurethane foam (PPU)

This is the most modern type of insulation, but also one of the most expensive. The advantages of wall insulation with polyurethane foam are many:

• after application, it expands, filling all the depressions, cracks, etc.
• at a certain density, the vapor permeability is very low, which excludes additional vapor barrier
• has good adhesion, i.e. sticks well to the wall
• after hardening has good mechanical strength
• good heat and sound insulating properties

Of course, any coin has two sides, so here, too, there are enough shortcomings:

• polyurethane foam with low density, has good vapor permeability, which must be taken into account when insulating.
• low fire resistance
• expensive material
• spraying is recommended to be applied by professionals, which practically excludes do-it-yourself warming
• aging of polyurethane foam over time, with deterioration of heat-insulating properties

It is better to entrust the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside with polyurethane foam to professional workers using personal protective equipment, since dangerous toxic substances are released during the spraying process.

Topics with a choice and description of the features of a particular type of insulation are deservedly popular on our portal. These questions become more urgent the higher the growth in energy prices and the desire of homeowners to save on heating. FORUMHOUSE has already talked about and about.

Choosing the best insulation for the walls of the house, which is right for you, we suggest looking at the nuances of insulating a private house from a slightly different angle. To do this, consider the following questions:

• How to start choosing a material.
• What are the types of heaters.
• Is it possible to do without using it.
• Should I use eco-insulators?
• What is lacking in modern means and methods of wall insulation.

Choosing a material

The modern market of thermal insulation materials offers a lot of options and types. Conventionally, they can be divided into artificial (man-made) and natural. Artificial include: mineral wool (stone and glass wool) and polystyrene foam insulation (PPS, or polystyrene, EPPS - extruded polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam), foam glass, sprayed polyurethane foam, ecowool, expanded clay, etc. Natural materials include sawdust, straw, moss, flax, hemp and other eco-materials.

The materials of the second group are most often used by enthusiasts in the construction of environmentally friendly houses.

To determine the type of material, you need to pay attention to the following parameters: thermal conductivity, hygroscopicity, density, flammability class, efficiency, environmental friendliness, durability. You also need to understand in advance what and how you are going to insulate. Those. – choose the scope of the material. To do this, we ask ourselves the question in which structural unit of the house should work. To the materials that are used for and insulation of the foundation (), etc. working in the ground, in an aggressive environment, there are certain requirements. These are non-susceptibility to moisture accumulation, rotting, high compressive strength, thermal efficiency, durability.

The main (perhaps even the only) disadvantage of foam plastics is their combustibility (under certain conditions) and limited thermal stability. In the event of a fire, first of all, interior items (furniture, curtains, etc.) burn. Therefore, measures must be taken in advance to protect polystyrene foam (in case it is used for internal insulation) from an open source of fire. To do this, the foam must be covered with a good layer of concrete or plaster. It is better if PPS is used for external insulation. It must also be covered with non-combustible material (concrete, plaster), and not used as an element of a ventilated facade!

In civil housing construction, expanded polystyrenes are widely used for insulation of foundations and flat roofs (EPS). Facades of houses, as the basis for thin-layer plaster, the so-called. "wet facade" (PPS).

• In a number of situations (especially in the field of low-rise housing construction), it is necessary to insulate frame structures, where, instead of rigidity, elastic options mounted by surprise are more technologically advanced. Here, it is most widely used on the basis of stone () or glass fibers - this material combines high manufacturability of installation (no special experience and special professional tools are required) with incombustibility (including fire resistance) and low production cost.

When using mineral wool materials, care must be taken to prevent moisture from entering them. In the event that water enters the insulation, the "pie" of the frame structure and the vapor transparency of the layers should ensure that excess moisture escapes to the outside. Why should steam and waterproofing films and membranes be used correctly?

The above methods are far from the only effective option for warming a room.

Alexey Melnikov

To a lesser extent, such insulation methods are now common as: poured (such as a screed from a solution of polystyrene concrete) and filling options (expanded clay gravel, foam glass chips, aerated concrete block rejection, etc.). Because they, in my opinion, are more appropriate as additional sound insulation in horizontal structures.

44alex FORUMHOUSE user

I would choose perlite for ceilings and for backfilling stone walls, but not under the floor on the ground, because. this is an excellent material in terms of price / thermal conductivity / combustibility / environmental friendliness / service life.

Recently, blown versions of heaters are also gaining popularity. Type of cellulose fiber (the so-called ecowool) or its mineral counterpart. According to Alexey Melnikova, these materials should be used for thermal insulation of hard-to-reach places.

natural materials

It is also necessary to highlight materials based on natural fibers (flax, sea grasses), which are now being promoted under the ideology of ECO-construction. Due to the limited choice and significant price tag, these materials have not yet become widespread.

The main disadvantages of natural materials:

• shrinkage;
• unpredictability of behavior in the long term;
• susceptibility to rodents.

Let's see how true this is.

Russian FORUMHOUSE user

Unexpectedly, the following experiment came out: in the summer they folded substandard linen insulation in the corner, in a stack 1.5 meters high. In winter, a water pipe leaked, which passed nearby. We noticed this only in the summer, i.e. the bottom layer of flax has lain for at least 6 months in water. And here are the results:

• For a material 5 cm thick, under the pressure of the upper layers, only 1 cm sat down;
• The material that had taken in water turned dark and was left to dry until morning. The next morning he regained his form, i.e. again became 5 cm thick;
• Breaking loads have not changed either.

After drying, the linen insulation remained practically unchanged, because the structure of the linen material is fixed by melted lavsan fibers. This structure can be changed only when heated to 160-190 ° C or when the flax is destroyed. And flax, as you know, is still used in plumbing work when sealing water pipes.

Extensive experience has been accumulated abroad in the use of this material. Mice do not eat it, they make passages in it and make their dwellings. To avoid this, appropriate measures are taken - in the form of installing a fine-mesh steel mesh, etc.

SCM FORUMHOUSE user

I believe that the use of sawdust is a very environmentally friendly way to insulate. The main thing is to follow the technology. It is better to fill up sawdust in layers, with careful tamping of each layer with a shovel handle.

Both industrial materials and “folk” materials have pros and cons. “Commercial” materials are a ready-made product with known properties and a certain installation technology, following which you can be sure of the final result. Eco-insulations are more of an experiment, with a possible lower cost (sawdust), you will have to sweat during installation. The construction itself can take time. Again, you can not guarantee 100% of the final result, because. we still have little experience in using such materials in different climatic zones.

Based on the foregoing, we can conclude: any material has the right to life. It all depends on the area of ​​​​its application, the prevalence of one or another type of material in a particular area, its price, thermal characteristics, etc. Hence: when choosing a heater, first of all, it is necessary to build on the economic calculation and the expediency of its use in the long term.

You should also check your tasks with our questionnaire:

• Where will the material be used?
• what is it for;
• what structure needs to be insulated.

Having puzzled with such questions, you will understand which material is suitable specifically for your case and specifically for your building.

Is there a universal heater

If you dream and imagine an “ideal” insulation, with a set of universal properties, then this will be a material whose various characteristics will not be stable - they must change flexibly depending on the operating conditions. In one situation, the material needs strength, high density, rigidity, clear geometry, and increased moisture resistance. In other conditions, it requires vapor transparency, low density (which means it will not work “in the ground”), workability in hard-to-reach places, flexibility, and good environmental friendliness. With all this, an affordable price for the masses remains important. It turns out mutually exclusive requirements. So it is hardly worth chasing after some special and new materials.

From our videos you will learn

Insulation of houses is becoming more important with the increase in utility prices. You can save a lot by doing everything yourself and having previously studied how they insulate private houses with their own hands. Considering that, for example, Moscow is characterized by rather cold and long winters, lower heating costs can significantly affect the family budget.

What to insulate first?

Very well, the problems in insulation are seen by the inhabitants of high-rise buildings located next to the private sector. So, at the beginning of winter, roofs where snow quickly melts clearly indicate high heat losses in the attic. The same can be detected with the help of a thermal imager.

Considering that warm air rises and cold air rises from below, special attention should be paid to the ceiling and floor. Especially if the house is without a basement and stands on the ground. With external insulation of the house, in no case should one forget about the basement, so as not to create cold bridges between warm and cold surfaces.

Also, a lot of heat escapes through the windows. And if all the cracks around the openings are securely foamed, you should carefully look at the batteries. Their length must be equal to the width of the window, and the window sill cannot overlap the radiator. After all, it is due to convection that a thermal curtain is created that does not let the cold in from the street.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

The thickness of the insulation should be selected based on the material of the walls, the thickness of these walls and the minimum temperature in the coldest period. According to SNiP, just 5 cm of polystyrene or 13 cm of vermiculite is enough to insulate a house.

But this is with additional insulation of window openings and a decrease in the ventilation of walls.

If you need to ensure minimal heat loss, it is better to use a calculator and calculate the individual thickness of the insulation. For example, for a wall folded into one brick, 10 cm of mineral wool will be required.

This will make it possible to obtain only 37.20 kW of ash losses during the heating season, instead of 166 kW without a heater.

The same 10 cm of mineral wool will be enough to insulate a house made of timber with a wall thickness of 150 mm, while heat losses will be even lower - only 34 kW. But 35-cm gas-block walls can be insulated with only 5 cm of mineral wool to provide 44 kW of ash loss.

Details on how to insulate private houses with their own hands

You need to insulate a private house wisely, because it will turn out to be more expensive to redo it. You need to remember the basic rule - only external walls are insulated. The insulation laid from the inside will not only reduce the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rooms, but also shift the dew point into the house.

Condensed moisture, which will have nowhere to evaporate, will cause mold to form, harming not only the building, but also the health of those living in it.

The second rule for building a wall pie is to increase the vapor permeability of materials from the inside to the outside. In other words, the frame must be protected from moisture from the inside as much as possible, and the steam that enters the material of the walls and ceiling must evaporate freely.

If vapor permeability is impaired and water microparticles linger at one of the stages, this again leads to the development of fungi. Particular attention should be paid to the vapor barrier of the ceiling - warm and humid air rises and, falling on the more hygroscopic inner layer of insulation, can no longer quickly evaporate through the ceiling.

Materials best suited for self-insulation

Of course, materials that do not require additional equipment are most suitable for self-insulating a house. Therefore, polyurethane foam and ecowool applied by spraying can not even be considered - the cost of equipment will not pay off when used for one home.

So, the easiest to use:

• slabs and rolls of mineral wool - they are simply laid on a horizontal surface, they must be pressed tightly against a vertical surface, for example, with self-tapping screws with "umbrellas";
• polystyrene - is glued to even surfaces using a special composition and additionally fixed with "umbrellas".
• vermiculite, expanded clay, sawdust - simply pour the desired layer into the pre-made formwork.

But even to work with these materials, you will need a drill or a puncher to make holes in the walls, a screwdriver to screw the frame, a saw or a grinder to cut the bars. So do not think that warming on your own is a very simple matter, even if your hand is a little stuffed at a home construction site.

Advantages, disadvantages and installation technology of mineral heaters

Mineral wool is universal - it can be used for insulation of both wooden and brick buildings. Due to its high vapor permeability, it will provide an optimal microclimate in the house without creating a greenhouse effect. But it is precisely for the opportunity to “breathe” that timber houses are so valued.

Basalt slabs are preferable in this regard. The insulation technology is extremely simple:

1. A frame of 5x5 cm bars is stuffed. It is fastened to wooden walls with self-tapping screws, and to concrete and brick walls with dowels. The bars are leveled and leveled with wooden linings.



2. The step of the bars in the frame is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation mat (so that it lies tightly, but does not sag). If a large layer of insulation is required, transverse bars are stuffed on top of the first layer of the laid mineral wool and the second layer is laid. The roof is insulated in the same way.



3. Brick houses can be insulated without building a frame. Basalt slabs are fastened with special glue and fixed with "umbrellas".



4. For wooden houses, a ventilated facade is used with a mandatory gap between the insulation and siding. In this case, the mineral wool is closed with a windproof membrane, and the puncture sites and all joints are glued with butyl rubber tape. Siding guides are stuffed over the windshield, they will also provide the necessary ventilation gap.



5. With a wet facade, basalt wool is reinforced with a reinforcing mesh and plastered. It is worth remembering that mineral wool is a flexible material, so even a light blow to the facade can ruin the finish.

Mineral heaters also have disadvantages. In addition to the mentioned love by mice, it is hygroscopic, so it requires good waterproofing. With improper ventilation, mineral wool begins to mold, and over time it weathers and cakes.

It is necessary to remember the safety precautions when working with glass wool - the fibers that get on the skin cause severe itching. Basalt wool crumbles a lot. If it enters the lungs, the dust is not removed, so the face must be protected with a respirator and goggles.

Pros, cons and foam insulation technique

The main disadvantage of polystyrene is its low vapor permeability, so it is not suitable for insulating wooden buildings. In order not to create the effect of a plastic bottle, when there is always high humidity in the house, it is advisable to pay special attention to ventilation.

The advantages of polystyrene foam are obvious:

• easy to install - it is lightweight, does not require a frame or formwork;
• easy to cut - does not form dust and is completely safe;
• does not rot and does not cake;
• inexpensive and durable.

PPS plates are laid on a flat prepared surface. You do not need to do a screed, but you will have to remove all protruding elements. The foam is attached to a special glue, and to improve adhesion, the walls are pre-treated with a primer.

Expanded polystyrene is fixed with "umbrellas" with a slight indentation, and the caps are rubbed with cement mortar to ensure tightness. The seams are sealed with mounting foam, the excess is cut off and also sealed.

The video shows in detail the entire technology of foam insulation:

Bulk insulation and their features

Natural bulk materials are environmentally friendly and, in some cases, low price. So, living in the forest region, there will be no problems with sawdust, but the delivery of expanded clay can be expensive. Vermiculite, on the other hand, is much better than expanded clay in its qualities, since it is the only insulator capable of absorbing heat. So it is best used as a heater inside the wall frame.

For an industrial scale, this is unprofitable, but private construction allows the use of bulk insulation even so.

If you need to insulate the attic floor, the easiest way is to pour 15 cm of sawdust. They do not even need to be covered with waterproofing films.

They also have disadvantages:

• Due to its properties to absorb and evaporate moisture, the material itself does an excellent job of removing excess steam, lowering the humidity in the house. In addition, all bulk insulation is not suitable for mouse nests, which also speaks in their favor.
  They also have disadvantages:
• expanded clay is hygroscopic and heavy, so it is not suitable for large-scale insulation of buildings on light foundations;
• Vermiculite is also quite heavy, but does not absorb moisture.

Any bulk heaters show themselves best on horizontal surfaces, but they are categorically not suitable for pitched roofs.

To build your own warm house, it is enough to have the minimum necessary building skills. And everything will definitely work out!

Currently, developers in the construction of new buildings pay special attention to the thermal protection of the outer walls. This is required not only by building codes, but also by the desire to increase their competitiveness. However, the situation with walls in old houses is somewhat different. Owners of private houses have to carry out the insulation of the premises with their own hands in order to keep the heat inside and leave the cold outside.

There can be several reasons for a decrease in the temperature inside the house: a poor heating system, the presence of cracks, drafts. However, the most common reason is poor wall insulation. Walls occupy the largest area in the room and are the main source of heat loss. There are several ways to insulate the walls in a private house from the outside.

Why insulation should be carried out outside

1. When insulating a house from the outside, the material protects the walls not only from heat loss, but also from the negative effects of moisture. Home heat warms up the wall and, in case of moisture ingress and condensation, contributes to its rapid drying.
2. moves closer to the outer edge of the wall. This prevents condensation.
3. Warming the house from the outside with your own hands not only protects the room from the cold, but also saves the usable area of ​​​​the rooms.

Outside wall insulation options

There are several options for how best to insulate a private house from the outside:

• Installation of heat-insulating material on the wall using an adhesive solution and further coating with plaster.
• Formation of a three-layer non-ventilated wall. The insulation is fixed with a solution. Next, the outer wall is laid in one layer of brick, taking into account the air space.
• Installation of a ventilated facade. A heater is attached on top of the waterproofing, on which a wind protection is installed. The finishing stage is sheathing with decorative clapboard or other siding.

Each method has its own nuances in execution. There are combined materials, as well as modern modified ones, the installation of which should follow a special technology. can be carried out even in the cold season, since its technology does not provide for the use of an adhesive composition.

What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside?

There are several types of insulating material. Each of them has its own characteristics and price range. The following heaters are considered the most popular:

• polystyrene (expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam);
• mineral wool;
• polyurethane foam;
• basalt slabs;
• cellulose based insulation.

Proper insulation of the walls of the house from the outside with your own hands depends on the choice of the optimal option for wall insulation. The main differences between the above materials are vapor permeability, moisture resistance and thermal conductivity. The first two parameters are selected based on the characteristics of climatic conditions, as well as the method of attachment to ensure maximum protection of the room from dampness. Thermal conductivity is taken into account when calculating the required thickness to achieve the optimum effect.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

Work on insulation should begin with the calculation of the thickness of the heat insulator. Calculations are carried out on the basis of data from SNiPa, GOST and SP. If it is not possible to carry out calculations on your own, it is better to use the services of private design organizations. The thickness of the insulation depends on the heat loss of the house through the exterior walls, window frames, foundation, ceilings and roofing. Taking into account the data obtained, and also taking into account the power of the heating system, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer is calculated.

Next, they decide on the choice of material and carry out the insulation of the house from the outside with their own hands. It is important to take into account not only the type and dimensions of the heat insulator, but also the number of required layers. For example, it is better to abandon polystyrene foam if laying in several layers is required. For this, mineral wool or polyurethane foam, the thickness of which is much less, is suitable.

Preparing walls for insulation

After choosing the better to insulate the house from the outside, proceed to the main work. The main goal is to prepare the walls for further installation of the material. To achieve a perfectly even brick, wood or concrete surface, the old layer of plaster or other insulator is completely removed.

Particular attention should be paid to the primer of the walls. If there are differences in the levels on the wall (protrusions and recesses over 2 cm), it is better to repair them with a special solution or comb them to the desired level. A primer with deep penetration should be used. Before applying the primer, the wall is cleaned of dust and dirt.

In order for the insulation for the walls to lie on the outside in an even layer and not interfere with the construction of an external wall of decorative bricks or plastering, you should think over a system of plumb lines and beacons in advance. They are used to determine the plane of the outer edge of the insulation, which facilitates its installation.

Anchors or screws are installed to the upper edge of the wall. A strong thread is tied to them and lowered with plumb lines to the very bottom. Between them, horizontal threads are attached, which form a control grid. It serves as a guideline when installing the frame or installing insulation.

Installation of foam plastic and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)

The foam is attached to the wall with a special glue for polystyrene foam boards. Sometimes building "fungi" are used for these purposes.

When insulating EPPS walls, the surface on which the adhesive solution will be applied is made rough. This contributes to a more reliable bonding. There are no such problems with foam plastic, since the glue fixes it without additional processing.

Often, both glue and “fungi” are used at the same time to strengthen the fastening. This is a more correct solution that prolongs the life of the insulation.

The final stage of wall insulation from the outside is the application of plaster or cladding with decorative materials.

How to insulate walls in a private house from the outside with foam plastic using wooden slats

In practice, another method of fastening foam sheets is used - by forming a frame from wooden slats.

For the construction of the frame, slats are used, the thickness of which is not less than the thickness of the insulation. If the thickness is slightly larger, this will create a ventilated space between the insulation and the facing material. The distance between the slats is calculated in such a way that the plates are tightly inserted into the niches and do not fall out.

This type of installation is acceptable if siding or lining will be used for finishing the walls. The slats will serve as the basis for fixing the facing material.

fastening features

With the help of mineral wool, you can also insulate a private house from the outside. Materials and tips for performing work are similar to the instructions for fastening basalt slabs and cellulose-based insulation.

For more reliable installation of mineral wool sheets, a frame system of wooden slats is formed. The width of the crate should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the heat-insulating material. This ensures that the mineral wool is tightly inserted between the bars and there are no gaps. Additionally, anchors are installed, on which sheets of insulation are subsequently put on. If the wall surface is uneven, two-layer mineral wool is used, the layers of which have different densities. The soft layer provides reliable adhesion to the wall.

In terms of exterior finish, mineral wool is more versatile, unlike other types of heat insulators. On top of the insulation, you can install an external horizontal lining, under which a windproof layer is attached in the form of a dense polyethylene film. For wall cladding, decorative brick, lining or other siding is used. This technology allows you to create a three-layer ventilated insulation that is suitable for most climatic zones.

How to insulate walls in a private house from the outside with polyurethane foam

The principle of mounting polyurethane foam is similar to the technology of fastening mineral wool. However, it is almost impossible to independently perform wall insulation using this material. The method involves the use of special expensive equipment that distributes the liquid mixture over the treated surface. In addition, without professional skills, working with the installation causes many difficulties.

The main feature of this method of insulation is the very fast execution of work. With the above installation, polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the surface. As a result of a chemical reaction, a liquid substance is transformed into a solid state and foams. The insulation does not form an air space between the wall and the heat insulator, which provides a stronger and more durable coating.

Features of polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam has many advantages, including:

• after hardening fills all cracks and cavities;
• vapor permeability is significantly lower than that of other materials;
• quickly and securely fixed to the wall;
• excellent mechanical strength;
• good heat and sound insulation.

However, the cost of the material and its installation are quite expensive. Durability and high quality indicators justify the high costs of its installation.

If sooner or later the question arises of how to insulate the house from the outside with your own hands, the instructions for using polyurethane foam will help solve the problem of heat loss and maintain a comfortable temperature in the room.

Regardless of what material is used as a heat insulator, any of the above options copes with its main task - warming the room. In addition, the outer insulation allows you to keep warm and protect the surface from moisture. Step-by-step instructions and practical recommendations from experts will tell you how to insulate walls in a private house from the outside.

The question of how to insulate a private house can arise in two cases: the first - at the design stage of a new house, the second - when an already built house is bought, which requires significant improvements to be comfortable for living. Within the framework of this article, we will tell you which heat-insulating material can be chosen for a particular design, where to start with insulation, how to insulate all the structural parts of the house.

Thermal insulation materials for a private house

The modern market is saturated with various thermal insulation materials. When choosing what material to insulate a private house with your own hands, pay attention to the following characteristics:

• Coefficient of thermal conductivity(hereinafter simply "λ", W/(m K)). The lower it is, the better. More precisely, the smaller the layer of this insulation will have to be used.
• Water absorption coefficient(% by weight). Shows how much the material is able to absorb moisture. Accordingly, the higher this indicator, the more likely it is that in some designs this insulation will lose its properties in a short time. The lower this indicator, the better.
• Density(kg/m3). Shows the mass of the insulation, this allows you to calculate how much it makes the structure heavier and whether it can withstand such weight.
• Flammability class. There are classes from G1 to G4. For insulation of residential premises it is better to use materials of class G1, they cease to burn without a source of open flame.
• Environmental friendliness. In fact, this parameter may not be important for some. But if you care about your health and the health of your family, then you can try to choose the most natural material that does not release any substances into the air and does not contain synthetic impurities or binders.
• Durability material.
• Steam capacity.
• Difficulty of installation.
• Soundproofing ability.

Materials from inorganic raw materials

(λ=0.041 - 0.044 W/(m·K)) is a fibrous material similar to cotton wool obtained from various rocks or slags. The form of release is in rolls or plates. There are also products of various densities, from 20 kg/m3 to 200 kg/m3. This allows you to choose exactly the type of cotton wool that is needed in a given situation.

In addition, any cotton wool dampens airborne noise well and has amazing soundproofing characteristics, in addition it is vapor-permeable (“breathes”). Does not burn, but rodents can start in it.

The main and main disadvantage of any wool as a heater is that it is able to absorb up to 70% of moisture. And despite the fact that having already absorbed 2%, it loses 50% of its insulating properties and will never dry out completely, using it to insulate external structures: an unprotected facade or roof is just madness.

Styrofoam or Styrofoam(λ=0.033 - 0.037 W/(m·K)) - a lot of plastic balls connected to each other by pressing or non-pressing method, inside of which the air is closed. To obtain such a gas-filled plastic using hot molding. This material is produced only in slabs, but it can be of various densities, from 11 to 35 kg / m3. Styrofoam is a fragile material, does not withstand heavy loads, burns, while releasing toxic gases, and also collapses under the action of sunlight.

Despite the fact that the foam is well insulated, while gaining little moisture, it also has a significant drawback: it does not "breathe", which means that a serious supply and exhaust ventilation system will have to be installed in the house. Also, expanded polystyrene still gains moisture when directly wet. In this case, it becomes absolutely unsuitable for further use.

Or EPPS(λ=0.028 - 0.032 W/(m K)) - closed cells of polystyrene with air. This material practically does not absorb moisture at all and does not allow air to pass through. Available in boards for easy installation. The main advantage of extruded polystyrene foam in relation to polystyrene is greater strength. At the same time, it also “does not breathe”, burns and emits toxic gases.

Important! Manufacturers claim that some brands of foam plastics and extruded polystyrene foam do not emit any substances even when smoldering or burning, in practice this is not entirely true.

Here we have reviewed the most popular materials that are recommended primarily by all specialists in the insulation of private houses. If you are not satisfied with the prospect of living in a modern synthetic thermos, you can consider other materials below.

"Warm" plasters(λ=0.065 W/(m K)) are a mixture that includes small balls (1 - 2 mm) of foamed glass, white cement and various additives that increase adhesion, hydrophobizing, vaporizing and others. Foamed glass balls give the mixture increased thermal insulation properties.

"Warm" plasters "breathe", do not let moisture through (serve as waterproofing), do not burn.

In fact, this material immediately serves as sound insulation, thermal insulation, waterproofing, while it is not afraid of sunlight, fire, moisture (does not pass through), vapor-permeable, and can be repaired.

Materials from organic raw materials - natural

(λ=0.045 - 0.06 W/(m K)) are made from cork oak bark (solid) or recycled cork chips. The manufacturing principle is as follows: the cork, crushed to a state of powder, is processed under high pressure with hot steam, then pressed into molds using a binder - natural resin, after hardening, it remains only to cut into plates.

Cork "breathes", i.e. it passes air, mold and other fungi do not form on it, but it ignites. True, when burned, it does not emit any toxic substances.

Cork insulation can cover roofs, ceilings, exterior and interior walls and floors.

Ecowool or cellulose wadding(λ=0.032 - 0.038 W / (m K)) is made from recycled waste paper without the addition of synthetic binders, the only thing is that it is treated with flame retardants to reduce the fire hazard.

Cellulose insulation "breathe", resistant to the formation of mold or other fungi, but absorb moisture well, which means that they require protection from water. The material in the form of wool does not withstand mechanical stress, so it makes sense to use it for warming attics. Rigid heaters are also made from paper, but with the addition of binders.

(λ=0.04 - 0.05 W/(m·K)) serves as a raw material for the production of many heat-insulating materials based on hemp fibers. The release form is different: mats, plates, rolls, individual fibers that can be used to seal gaps. To reduce the fire hazard, boron salts are added to the material. Despite the fact that the density of the material is 20 - 68 kg / m3, hemp does not withstand pressure loads well.

Hemp "breathes", is not afraid of fungus, is used for insulation of roofs, ceilings, facades and walls.

Straw(λ=0.038 - 0.072 W/(m K)) is an excellent heat insulator that can be used to make light ceilings, walls and roofs. Straw of rye, wheat, barley, oats is used as a material. It is pressed and tied with mesh, wire or cords. The density of straw insulation is 90 - 125 kg / m3, they can be plastered from above.

Straw "breathes", but also burns well. Therefore, sometimes it is treated with flame retardants.

Seaweed(λ=0.045 - 0.046 W/(m·K)) before becoming a heat-insulating material, they are dried, and later they are used to produce plate materials, bulk materials or seaweed ladders. Thanks to sea salt, algae are not afraid of fungi and other mold. Density 70 - 80 kg/m3.

Seaweed ladders do not burn, do not rot, mold and large living creatures (mice) do not start in them. Wooden beams, rafters or boards located under the algae are always kept dry, so they last a long time. Algae is used to insulate roofs, ceilings and walls.

How best to insulate a private house from the outside

We want to immediately clarify that it is best to do the work on warming a private house from top to bottom, i.e. start with the roof, then the attic, walls, floor and foundation. But for convenience, we will divide all work into external and internal. Insulation of the house from the outside consists in the insulation of the walls of the foundation and basement, as well as the facade walls. Please note that the material and its required thickness should be calculated, for this you can contact the design offices.

How to insulate the foundation of a private house

Significant heat loss occurs through the foundation. This is due to the fact that the foundation walls are in direct contact with the soil and backfill, which freeze to a certain depth.

Due to the fact that the walls of the foundation are constantly in contact with water, it is necessary to select hydrophobic materials for their insulation.

Suitable: extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), foamed glass,adobe(clay with straw), red brick with floor(burnt, with air bubbles inside).

EPPS insulation or foamed glass must be fixed to the foundation wall with adhesive mastic. Necessarily to the depth of freezing of the soil. From above, these materials do not need to be protected from the ground in any way, and in the basement part they can be covered with plaster on a grid or lined.

Natural heaters adobe and others are actually backfilling and do not require fastening.

How to insulate the walls of a private house

If you are interested in the answer to the question of how to properly insulate a private house, outside or inside, then you should know that experts recommend insulating the walls of a private house from the outside, since internal insulation has a number of significant drawbacks. In the layer of the cake wall, the materials should be arranged in such a sequence that the resistance to vapor permeation during the movement of steam outwards decreases from layer to layer. Otherwise, water vapor will accumulate in the insulation.

Insulation of the walls of the house from the outside can be done in various ways: ventilated facade, well masonry, plaster on top of the insulation.

It is a structure consisting of a frame, insulation and cladding. The supporting frame is attached to the wall with anchors, a heater (wool or plates) is inserted into it, a lining is attached to the top of the frame, which performs decorative and protective (from weather factors) functions. Between the insulation and the lining there is an air gap of 2-4 cm, it significantly increases the thermal insulation properties of the structure, and also serves to remove steam and excess moisture from the insulation.

For ventilated facades, it makes sense to use cotton wool insulation: stone wool, mineral wool, ecowool.

"Well" masonry is such a cake: brick walls, insulation, facing brick. Due to the fact that it is impossible to protect the insulation from moisture in such a design, one should choose one that does not absorb water: , vermiculite, expanded clay and others. This largely depends on the facing material.

"Wet" facade is carried out by fixing the insulation to a wall of brick, concrete or blocks, and on top of applying a primer and decorative layer of plaster over a reinforcing mesh.

For insulation under plaster, you can use materials whose density is higher than 30 kg / m3: any cotton wool(mineral, ecowool), polystyrene foam(Styrofoam), extruded polystyrene foam(EPPS), straw, hemp, cork, seaweed. The thickness is calculated depending on the wall material and thickness, climate zone and other indicators.

Insulation to the wall must either be glued or fixed to the dowels. A reinforcing mesh is attached from above, and plastering work is carried out.

"Warm" plasters can be used as both a heater and a decorative coating. They are applied directly to the wall without additional insulation. This is one of the most environmentally friendly ways of warming - suitable for modern eco-friendly housing with "breathing" walls. It can be used to plaster facades, slopes, curved surfaces, basements and semi-basements, balconies.

How to insulate a private house from the inside

Internal insulation works include insulation of the roof, attic, floor and ceilings. As mentioned above, it is not recommended to insulate the walls from the inside. In exceptional cases, after consulting a specialist, you can sheathe the walls from the inside with cork or other natural material.

How to insulate the roof of a private house

Pitched roof insulation is necessary if the attic insulation is not sufficient, or if the attic is in use. To do this, a crate is stuffed between the rafters, to which heat-insulating material with a density of up to 50 kg / m3 is attached. Outside, from the side of the roof, the material must be protected from water ingress with a waterproofing film. From the inside, from the side of the room, with a vapor barrier membrane.

Important! The truss structure in this type of insulation is a kind of cold bridge, since the thermal conductivity of the tree is still higher than that of the insulation. To eliminate this drawback, it is necessary to lay another layer of insulation from the inside in such a way as to close the rafters.

Wool can be used as insulation for the roof ( mineral wool, ecowool), extruded polystyrene foam, seaweed, reeds, hemp, straw, cork and other materials. When choosing a material, please note that in the event of a leak, the cotton wool will turn into unnecessary trash. Protection of the insulation with films is necessary if the insulation layer is isolated from the room. If there is an attic with windows on the roof, steam protection is not needed.

How to insulate the attic of a private house

Since ancient times, only the attic, not the roof, was insulated in houses. And here's why: the roof was made gable with such an angle that snow lay well on its surface, windows were equipped in the attic that could be opened and closed depending on the need, the attic floor was insulated. With the onset of frost, the roof of the house was covered with a layer of snow - a natural insulation. If the temperature was -25 ° C outside, under the roof slope, i.e. in the attic it fluctuated around 0 °C. Attic insulation served to raise the temperature from 0 to 22 ° C in the living room.

If you bought an old house or are building eco-friendly housing from natural materials, you can perform the following insulation of the attic: coat all the cracks in the ceiling (from the side of the attic) clay sprinkle on top sand. If the clay cracks for any reason, the sand will fill the cracks. Whitewash with lime on top or sprinkle dry slaked lime, add to this mixture spent carbide for protection against mice. On top of this, pour loose heat-insulating material: sex from cereals, straw, sawdust, algae ladders, ecowool.

A modern way to insulate an attic: lay a vapor barrier film on the floor of the attic, pour cotton material on top with a layer of about 200 mm.

How to insulate the ceiling of a private house

It does not make sense to insulate the ceiling; rather, it may be necessary to insulate the floor between floors or the floor and the attic. How to insulate the attic floor (ceiling of the lower floor) has already been described above.

It is necessary to insulate the floor between floors only if the floors have different temperature conditions, i.e. the lower floor is heated, but the upper one is not, or vice versa.

In interfloor wooden floors, insulation is placed between the joists. Can be used cotton wool insulation with density up to 50 kg/m3, hemp, ecowool. In this case, it will also serve as soundproofing.

If the floor is arranged on the floor slab, then it is necessary to use dense heat-insulating materials with a density of more than 160 kg/m3. It can be thick wool insulation,extruded polystyrene foam, Cork.

How to insulate the floor in a private house

Insulation of the floor in a private house, made on the ground, must be started with backfilling. If the house is old, you will have to remove the flooring, logs and excavate to the required depth.

Filling under a wooden floor on the ground should be like this:

• Compacted soil.
• 5 - 7 cm of river sand, carefully compacted.
• 10 - 12 cm gravel.
• Air space.
• Logs laid on house beams or support posts.
• Draft floor or waterproof plywood nailed to the bottom of the lag.
• Polyethylene film for waterproofing.
• Insulation: cotton wool, hemp, seaweed, straw, Cork(loose) or others.
• Draft floor.
• Clean floor.

To install a concrete floor on the ground after a layer of crushed stone, it is necessary to perform a rough floor screed, then lay waterproofing, the insulation layer depends on the climatic features of the area, the material must be very dense (more than 160 kg / m3) in order to withstand loads, a finishing screed is laid on top of the insulation and finish coating.

As a heater for concrete floor on the ground can be used extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam(Styrofoam), cork.

In conclusion, I would like to note that before insulating a private house, contact design organizations for recommendations and calculations of insulation for your region, taking into account the material and thickness of the walls of the house. Don't try to do everything on your own. It may turn out that all the work is in vain: the insulation will get wet from condensate, or the dew point will be in the wrong place.

How to insulate a private house: video