Climbing roses: description, cultivation and reproduction. Combinations of roses with other plants

The garden rose is considered the queen of flowers. Residents claim that climbing rose requires increased attention to itself, and only then will it please the eye for a long time. Pro proper care behind a climbing rose, we will talk about the features of its planting and shelter for the winter in our article.

Terms of planting roses in Russia

Planting climbing roses in the Moscow region and middle lane Russia is held in late April - early May, at a soil temperature of 10-12 degrees Celsius, but before the buds open. According to observations, in climbing roses planted in spring, there is a slight lag in growth from autumn seedlings by an average of 14 days.

Planting a climbing rose in summer is recommended for own-rooted (grown from cuttings, layering or propagated by dividing the bush) plants, in containers with a closed root system. It is they who are advised to purchase by novice gardeners, however, it should be borne in mind that in the first year these plants are weaker than grafted specimens, which means they are more demanding for care, especially for shelter for the winter.

Climbing roses are planted in the south in autumn, until mid-October. After 2 weeks, the plant will be able to form new root processes. In winter, the young rhizome hardens, and with the onset of spring it will develop simultaneously with the ground part and form a strong bush.

Site selection and site preparation

The ideal place for planting a climbing rose is a well-lit, flat and dry area with a slight slope for rain and melt water to drain or equipped with drainage. It is not recommended to choose lowlands and wetlands for planting. Stagnant water will lead to rotting of the roots, and the lack of sun and ventilation - to the fungus.

For the same reason, the depth of groundwater in the territory of the rose garden should be no higher than 2 meters. If the location of the site does not allow choosing such a place, then the roses are planted on an artificial elevation. A large stone is placed at the bottom of the planting hole, which prevents the roots from deepening and they begin to grow horizontally. A climbing rose planted using this technology requires additional protection of the root system. The roots are well compacted when planting, they are mulched tree bark or sawdust.

If groundwater lies close to the surface, caring for climbing roses involves the presence of a room on the site for moving bushes to winter storage. For this purpose, a dry heated basement or garage, an insulated veranda or terrace are suitable.

Re-planting roses in one place is not desirable

A place where roses have already grown before is not suitable - new flowers will develop poorly and lack minerals. In the absence of an alternative, the top soil layer to a depth of half a meter must be replaced.

The soil for planting in the spring is prepared in the fall, in other cases - a month before the planned procedure. Fertile air and moisture permeable clay soils, with a slightly acidic pH of 5.5-6.5, are most suitable for climbing roses.

Coarse sand, humus, compost, turf and leaf ground(6:1:1:1:1); in sandy - clay, soddy soil, humus or compost (2: 2: 1: 1). Based on 1 sq.m. 1 kg is also added to the earth mixture wood ash, a pound of bone meal, 100 g of superphosphate and a kilogram of chalk, depending on the pH of the soil.

climbing rose - perennial with powerful roots, which should be located freely. Therefore, for one bush, they dig a hole up to 70 cm deep and 60 by 60 cm in size. The distance between the holes should be up to 3 m.

The top layer of soil is laid aside, the podzol is removed. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of pebbles or small gravel, a prepared earth mixture is laid out on top of a height of 40 cm, which is sprinkled with a deposited layer of soil.

Curly roses planting and care

Seedlings with an open root system are placed in water 24 hours before planting. When planted in spring, the shoot of a rose is shortened by 2 buds, an average of 30 cm in length. In autumn, the stems are not pruned; after planting, they are shortened in the spring, after the leaves bloom. The roots are cut to a living white tissue by 25 cm and sprinkled with crushed charcoal for disinfection.

The prepared plant is dipped for an hour in a creamy clay mash and 1/10 of fresh manure. For better adaptation, growth regulators are added: Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Etamon, Buton or Phosphobacterin, 3 tablets of which are preliminarily diluted in 0.5 of water.

The grafting site for climbing roses is deepened into the soil by 15 cm so that the plant can put down its own roots. When planting, make sure that the root system is straightened and when falling asleep with earth, air voids do not form. Caring for climbing roses in summer consists in carefully removing wild rose hips. sharp knife without leaving stumps, unnecessary cuts and damage.

After planting, the soil is compacted and watered. For watering own-rooted climbing roses, a mixture is used, dissolving a tablet of Heteroauxin and Phosphobacterin in 10 liters of water. Chemicals enhance the protective properties of the plant and activate metabolic processes. To protect the plant from drying out, the bush is spudded and mulched. At a distance of 20 cm, a support is placed for further garter. Curly roses planted in spring are covered with foil for 2 weeks better recovery and adaptation of roots.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year after planting is not difficult. During this period, the plants do not require top dressing. It is important to water the seedlings three times a month, loosen and mulch the soil, and tie the bush to a support. When the stems grow up to 3 m long, the support is removed, and the stems are treated with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Climbing rose landing and care video

Climbing rose care after flowering

To give the bush the desired shape, from the second year after planting in the ground, they start pruning. A climbing rose, the care of which necessarily includes decorative trimming and shortening of the shoots, is always pruned according to the general rule, regardless of the variety - the number of cut and remaining stems should be the same.

In place of the old, young shoots grow, among which only 3-5 of the strongest are left. As a result, the bush consists of 3-5 flowering and 4-5 young shoots.

Caring for remontant varieties of roses

Roses remontant varieties thin out in early spring and after flowering. Strong formative pruning is carried out until the end of June, so that the young shoots have time to ripen before winter. With more late procedure they may die.

Photo and detailed description you will find climbing varieties of roses in our material.

Shelter for the winter and care for roses in spring

Shelter for wintering is carried out in two ways: untied and bent to the ground or fixed on a support.

Unsupported shelter for the winter

The bush is untied from the support. At a slight angle, it is bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches.

From above they are wrapped with fiberglass, which allows the plant to breathe and does not let water through. The soil under the plant is sprinkled with dry earth and mulched with fallen leaves.

Shelter on a support

The bush is covered with spruce branches directly on the support, wrapped with agrofiber or burlap and secured with twine.

Removal of winter shelter and spring care

In April, the shelter is removed for several hours a day, completely - after the snow melts. The soil under the bushes is loosened and fresh compost is added. The plant is examined for diseases and damage, if necessary, cutting off the affected area.

Moldy areas are treated with 15% copper sulphate, and the stems are tied to a support horizontally to reduce the formation of replacement shoots. On horizontal stems, buds form along the entire length of the main stems, not just on top.

Curly roses, planting and caring for which are carried out in accordance with all the rules, require a mandatory garter:

• For tying, choose plastic, silicone twine, and not wire wrapped in paper. It eventually decays from moisture, and the metal can damage the plant;
• The strapping should fit the stem tightly, but not injure it;
• Supports should be checked regularly and, if necessary, repaired or completely replaced.

Watch out for supports and garter

It is important to remember that poor-quality support or bad twine can break the stems of the bush and seriously damage it.

Outcome

Growing an incredibly beautiful climbing rose in your area is not so difficult, and its fragrance and bright flowers will be noticed by neighbors and guests. Subject to the rules of planting and appropriate care, a climbing plant will delight with its chic buds for many years.

Planting roses in the spring begins after a thorough warming up of the soil and the establishment of warm weather for working with open ground. It is undesirable to plant roses in May, since warming and possible droughts prevent the seedlings from rooting normally. late boarding the risk of rather slow development of plants and poor flowering of roses in the first year increases. Early planting in spring involves maximum rooting of shoots with two or three buds left at the root neck. This will stimulate dormant buds and cause their active development.

Planting roses in spring. How to plant a rose

Ornamental roses, if grafted onto wild roses, are not too picky about the soil. Own-rooted roses require more attention. Before planting, you need to update the sections of the roots, cutting them to 18-20 cm, and remove the dried roots to living tissue.

Then dig holes up to a depth of 30 cm, and mix the excavated soil well with rotted manure (10 parts of soil per 1 part of manure). Next, the roots are placed in the hole, freely and evenly distributing them.

The root neck should be at the level of the top layer of the earth. The roots are sprinkled with loose soil up to half of the hole, watered with water to compact. Then the soil is filled up to ground level, adjusted vertical position plants and the level of the root collar is checked.

After that, the soil can be slightly compacted and watered again. After complete absorption of moisture, the surface of the hole is mulched with dry earth. This will prevent moisture from evaporating intensively and protect the roots from drying out.

The most favorable time for planting roses in the country is spring, depending on the weather, both the end of April and the beginning of May are suitable. Roses are heat-loving plants and demanding on warm soil.

Autumn planting is risky in our area in that some of the planted bushes will not be able to take root well, they will die in frosts. But the ground for spring planting of roses is being prepared in the fall. At their summer cottage, they dig holes of half a meter in diameter of the same depth.

At the bottom, drainage is arranged in several layers. Small stones, expanded clay will fit for its device. This layer is covered with sand from above (up to 10 cm). On wet, heavy soils in the country, drainage is strictly required.

Roses do not like excessive dampness. It is recommended to put organic matter on the sandy layer - rotten grass (without seeds!), Leaves, dust from aged trees. All this will come in handy as a wonderful fertilizer for roses.

The top and last layer (about 25 cm) can be covered with the old, weed-free earth or peat. It is advisable to pay attention to the acidity of the earth in the country. Roses love neutral or slightly acidic earth.

If there is acidic soil in the country, it is good to add ash, dolomite flour (1/1) to peat. Neutral soil can be diluted with fertilizers.

A planting pit for a rose bush will require superphosphate, organics, potash fertilizers in the proportion of 25 g / 7 kg / 10 g. Starting planting, you need to carefully examine the roots: damaged areas are cut directly to living tissue, good roots are left about 20 cm long. Should be cut and a bush: dry, weak shoots are cut out completely, 6 buds are left for strong ones, and 3 for medium ones. When planting, be sure to cover the grafting site with a layer of earth for 5-7 cm.

Then the ground around the rose bush must be tamped, and the landing itself should be watered (at least 1 bucket of water per bush). Non-woven material can be used to protect seedlings from bright spring rays.

When heat is established and the earth in the country is completely warm, they remove the shelter and unravel the shoots. The size of the shoots by this time reaches 5 cm. To stimulate good growth in roses, when planting, cut the tops of the shoots.

When planting roses in the autumn at the dacha, the pits should be prepared in advance (1-1.5 months). Climbing roses are planted near the support and deeper.

Caring for climbing roses: transplanting, choosing a pot, planting and watering. It is not enough to plant roses, you need to grow them according to the rules of agricultural technology. And growing roses is a troublesome business, including feeding, pruning, watering, shelter for the winter from frost.

Two days after planting, the ground around the seedlings is loosened very carefully, trying not to touch the roots. Next, hilling is done with earth (up to 10 cm). As soon as the buds start to grow, the ground is removed from the shoots. Now is the time to feed the roses with complex fertilizer.

The amount of fertilizer should not be more than 20 g/bush. Re-feeding is organized in the middle of summer. This is necessary for the abundant full flowering of roses. It is very useful to carry out spring feeding of rose bushes every two years. large quantity manure.

When growing rose bushes in the country, pinching the shoots makes it possible to adjust the timing of the flowering of roses.

About the intricacies of watering

Roses need to be watered weekly. The best time to water roses is evening, early morning. During the periods of formation of shoots, as well as during flowering, watering is done abundantly.

But wetting the leaves should be avoided. Even when planting, an earthen roller should be formed around the rose bush. It will help in the future to avoid the spreading of water. And after watering, as the land near the roses dries up, it is necessary to loosen it, since the roots of the plant need oxygen.

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How to beat diseases

For the productive cultivation of roses, you should learn all the problems inherent in them. All plants, including roses, are susceptible to disease and damage from various pests. In the spring, protection of roses from aphids begins, spraying young shoots with an insecticide once every 3 weeks.

From a disease called powdery mildew during the growing season rose bushes sprayed with fungicides. If the roses are infected with black spot or rust, the affected leaves must be removed, and the plants should be sprayed with agents containing copper and zinc. Early enough in the spring, for prevention purposes, it is best to treat rose bushes with a fungicide specially invented for roses.

Growing features

Dried rose flowers should be plucked. This is necessary for the appearance of new buds on the bushes and lengthening the flowering period. It happens that many buds are tied on one shoot.

But to get a large flower, everything is removed except the central one. In a similar way, they get rid of the processes from the lower buds of the stem, because they will retard the growth and full development of the central shoot. Strong young shoots of roses at a height of 30 cm are pruned because they enhance the formation of side shoots. Light green barren chicks should be removed completely.

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pruning

Growing a rose without pruning does not happen. Bushes are subjected to heavy pruning after a heavy wintering, while the plant remains with shoots consisting of only a few buds. So the rose is renewed.

Moderate pruning of a rose is marked by leaving 6 buds on the stem, with a weak plant, the plant remains with 12 buds on the shoot. This type of work is performed with a pruner. It is worth monitoring the cleanliness and sharpness of its blades. It is better to do pruning from the very base of the bush.

Smooth cuts are made at an angle of 45 degrees above the kidney by 7 mm. In order for the rose to continue to decorate the dacha, the sections are covered with garden pitch. The dacha can get additional decorativeness by giving the rose bushes an attractive shape.

When pruning, excess shoots that can only thicken the bush are removed. In the spring, while the rose is still sleeping, or before winter shelter, pruning is done. It is necessary to completely cut out the dried old stems, along with them sick and weak.

Then the cottage will always please the eye thanks to healthy beautiful bushes roses. Without any regret, shoots that have grown from the trunk below the graft are removed. Otherwise, the rose runs the risk of being reborn into a wild dog rose. With the approach of cold weather, it is necessary to cover the roses.

Now there are acclimatized varieties that can do without such care. But growing roses is not easy, and frosts are different. It is important not to miss the time for shelter. If you rush, then the roots can simply rot.

They can also rot or rot from excessively warm wrapping. You should not cover roses with spruce branches, branches - so they risk dying in March. Peat, sawdust, even loose earth is suitable for shelter. It is necessary to make the shelter correctly.

Shoots bend down to the ground one by one or tie the entire bush. Arcs or another frame are placed above the bent rose bush. Both fittings and metal-plastic are suitable. From above they cover with a spunbond, it is possible in several layers, pressing the edges of the material to the soil.

The top of such a frame can be protected from precipitation with polyethylene, securing it with clothespins. The main thing is to disassemble the structure on time (no later than March). In order for the dacha to please the flowering of roses for a long time, varieties with various terms flowering.

The dacha gives extraordinary scope for the realization of the most daring ideas. The process of growing roses is exciting and addictive.

Having mastered the intricacies of growing one variety, gardeners are engaged in a new one. The cottage of real rose lovers eventually becomes a fragrant paradise, where hybrid tea roses populate flower beds and borders, and climbing varieties decorate arches and walls. Growing roses, given the presence of more than 20 thousand varieties, is an endless occupation.

How and when to plant roses in a flower garden in the country

Most the best time for planting it is of course spring and autumn. In spring, it is better to plant roses in the ground from early to mid-April to the end of May, when the soil thaws and warms up to 10-12 degrees.

Choosing a place to plant roses

The flowering, growth and development of roses is significantly affected by the thermal regime of air and soil. Roses grow better at an air temperature of + 15-22 degrees and do not like stagnant air and drafts. It is better not to plant roses in a low place, especially dangerous high level ground water.

It is better to plant roses in a place where they would not be under direct sunlight throughout the day. It is necessary to choose places where the plants are slightly shaded in the midday heat. Roses should not be planted densely - this leads to the development of diseases and problems in care.

Planting roses should be such that it is easy to tie the shoots, bend down and cover the bushes for the winter when necessary. If the land is fertile in your country house, the pits are dug to a depth of roots plus 5-10 centimeters. With a root length of 35 centimeters, it is recommended to make the depth of the planting pit for roses already 45-50 cm and a width of about 50 centimeters.

On new undepleted sites upper layer of earth (approximately on a shovel bayonet) is used to prepare the soil mixture, which is filled with pits during planting. If the earth on the site is clay, the pits are made even deeper - by 60-70 centimeters.

Preparing rose seedlings

Before planting, look through the seedlings, remove broken and weak branches, as well as damaged roots. All roots must be shortened to 30-35 cm. If the seedlings arrive with cut roots, the cuts must be updated.

At spring planting shoots need to be shortened and left for hybrid tea and undersized polyanthus roses 2-3 buds, and for floribunda roses - 3-4 buds. In addition, tall roses for early flowering shoots are shortened by 10-15 cm, in climbing roses of the Rambler group - both during spring and autumn planting - up to 30-35 cm.

Ground cover roses do not need pruning, you just need to update the cuts of the roots. Climbing large-flowered roses. park, semi-climbing, scrubs, you need to slightly shorten the roots and remove weak and damaged tops of the shoots.

During autumn planting, the shoots of seedlings of all groups are only slightly shortened. basement or in a refrigerator where the temperature does not exceed +7 ° C. The root system of all seedlings must be soaked for 2 hours in water before planting.

It is advisable to add "Kornevin" or other root-forming regulators and growth stimulants (humates) there. Dried seedlings affected by improper storage should be soaked for 12 hours.

A closed root system should not be unpacked, you just need to fill the roots with water up to the stem right in the package. Strongly dried seedlings are immersed in water completely with stems. After this procedure, the seedlings look refreshed, the turgor of the stems noticeably increases.

Now roses can be planted in a permanent place.

How to plant roses - a step-by-step instruction for a summer resident

1. Seedlings are planted at an air temperature of 0 to +7 °C. Before planting, they are stored in dark cool chalk, once every two weeks the roots are moistened. landing pits prepare in advance. The standard depth of the pit is 45-50 cm, the width is 50 cm. On heavy clay soils, pits are dug deeper - 60-70 cm. A mixture of soil and rotted organic matter (manure, compost, humus) is laid at the bottom of the pit. Fertilizers are not placed under the root, trying to avoid their contact with the roots. For better nutrition cut the root tips before planting by 1-2 cm (renew the cut) and soak the root for 2 hours in water, adding Kornevin there. Plant the seedling so that the graft is buried 5-10 centimeters below ground level. In the place of penetration into the ground, you must first clean the wax. Compact the soil around the seedling well and water it abundantly to remove the remaining air around the roots and ensure direct contact of the roots with the soil. Cover the seedling with moist soil almost completely for 2 weeks, making a small mound out of the earth. After 2 weeks, when the rose has taken root, the ground can be removed. Now cut the planted rose according to the recommendations for this species or variety.

Planting roses (click on photo to enlarge)

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - with your own hands"

We grow roses

Rose, despite its royal beauty, the plant is quite unpretentious. Just water and fertilize on time. Yes, so that the sun is ... In order for the plant to grow without problems and does not require constant fuss around it, you should start by choosing a quality seedling.

Numerous nurseries and private traders offer a huge range of planting material of various colors and varieties. Own-rooted roses are offered, grown from cuttings, or grafted onto wild roses.

Own-rooted plants are more resistant to drying out or cold, they tolerate transplanting more easily and cope with diseases. When buying a seedling with an open root system, be sure to ask the seller to make cuts on the main roots of the plant to check if it is alive. It is better to plant roses in late autumn so that they form a root system during the winter and are ready for budding.

Roses planted in spring should not be allowed to bloom the first year, give them the opportunity to strengthen the root and form a bush. The purchased plant should be soaked for a day in a clay mash or root.

This is important to maintain the plant while getting used to the soil, to saturate it with moisture. A seedling is placed in a pre-prepared and spilled hole on a small hump. The root system is cracking down.

It is better to deepen the root neck of grafted plants by 3-5 centimeters. This will allow the variety to recover if its aerial part freezes in winter.

Having covered the roots with earth, it is necessary to water well so that the earth fills all the voids between the roots. A rose is a very sun-loving plant. In extreme cases, she will allow herself to bloom in a site where the sun appears only before lunch.

In the shade, the plant may not produce buds or it will not bloom much. Roses of a light color or from the group of so-called blue roses it is advisable to plant in partial shade, under direct rays their color quickly fades and loses all attractiveness. The rose is a large “water drink”.

But her love for water, like that of a camel, is rare, but apt. You should not water the plant daily, it is better two or three times a week in a bucket under a bush. She also does not like compacted or overgrown with weeds.

Weeding saturates the soil with oxygen, which this beauty really likes. The most annoying plant pest is aphids. She covers the young shoots of branches and buds, feeds on their juices. If you do not fight aphids, then the shoots die, flowering will not occur.

There are special insecticides to deal with them, but if there are not very many rose bushes, it is better to spray the plants. soapy water. Aphids especially dislike liquid soap. Rose bushes need to be fertilized every two weeks until mid-July nitrogen fertilizers, after potassium and phosphorus.

During the budding period, the plant should be pampered with a full range of mineral fertilizers with microelements. Fertilizer is applied only to moist soil.

For faster and more abundant re-blooming, dry buds must be removed from the bush, cutting off the stem before the first five-leaf leaf. By winter, after flowering, the rose is cut off. This is necessary for a better winter.

In the spring, such a rose will grow stronger, give a denser growth. This rule does not apply to climbing roses, their shoots are not shortened, but only old and damaged ones are removed. Pruning 30-35 centimeters above the ground is considered optimal.

If the plant has not shed all the foliage by the first frost, it must be removed on its own. For the winter, the rose is covered with soil or sand at the base to preserve the roots. Before sheltering, plants should be treated for fungus.

Cover roses at the first slight frost and only if the stems are dry. Climbing plants bend down to the ground and also take cover. You do not need to put them on the ground to avoid the stems from damping.

You can not cover roses with organic matter - leaves or grass. Over the winter, it will rot and ruin the plants.

Growing roses

Planting a Rose: The Right Action

The best time for planting roses is undoubtedly autumn, but so that at least 2-3 weeks remain before the onset of winter, here they take root already in the fall, winter well in early spring, begin to grow, and have time to get stronger and gain color before the onset of heat. Before planting roses, you need to carefully examine them and remove broken shoots, leaving 3-5 buds in total.

Immerse the seedlings that we cut into a solution of clay and humus (1 to 1), now they will take root better and the formation of roots will go faster. Cut rose seedlings to the root collar are immersed in a solution composed of clay and humus. We prune before planting. 5 kg of humus, 20 grams of nitrogen and 16 grams of potash and phosphorus fertilizers are introduced into the hole and everything is thoroughly mixed with the ground. Hole for planting roses 30-40 cm.

In total, not pits are dripped separately, but a continuous trench is made, which has a depth and width of 40 cm. Now planting follows, from which it follows that planting in the fall is better. Submissions are accepted.

climbing roses- these are types of wild rose and some varieties garden roses with long branching shoots. All of them are representatives of the genus Rosehip and occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening pavilions, walls and buildings, perfectly combined with architectural forms of large and small sizes. Climbing roses are indispensable for creating such decorative garden structures as pyramids, columns, garlands, arbors and arches. They look great in compositions with other flowers and plants, so they are as popular as any spray or indoor rose.

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Planting and caring for climbing roses (in brief)

• Landing: from the last ten days of September to mid-October or from mid-April to the end of May.
• Bloom: from late spring to late autumn.
• Lighting: bright light in the first half of the day, diffused light or partial shade in the second.
• The soil: optimal - moisture-permeable fertile loam with deep groundwater.
• Watering: once every 7-10 days, spending 1-2 buckets of water on each bush.
• Top dressing: bushes of the first year are fed only in August with potash fertilizer, bushes of the second year - with full mineral and organic fertilizers alternately, making 5 top dressings per season, and from the third year of life, roses are fed in the same mode, but exclusively with organic matter. During flowering, roses do not fertilize.
• Garter: as a support, you can use a fence, a wall of a house, a dry tree or special structures - lattices, arches and arcs made of metal rods. The shoots are tied to the support with twine.
• Pruning: spring and autumn.
• Reproduction: seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting.
• Pests: aphids, spider mites, thrips, rose sawflies, leafworms, cicadas.
• Diseases: powdery mildew, bacterial cancer, coniothyrium, gray rot, black spot.

Read more about growing climbing roses below.

Climbing roses - description

To give general description climbing roses, the task is too complicated due to their huge variety, so we suggest that you first familiarize yourself with the classification of climbing roses adopted in international flower growing practice.

The first group of climbing roses, the so-called climbing roses, or rambler roses (Rambler) are plants with long creeping or arcuate flexible bright green thorny stems up to five meters or more in length. The leaves of the Rambler climbing rose are leathery, shiny and small. Flowers - weakly scented, simple, semi-double or double, up to 2.5 cm in diameter - are collected in inflorescences and are located along the entire length of the shoot. Abundant flowering of climbing roses of this group lasts a little more than a month in the first half of summer. Most varieties are hardy and winter well under light cover. The plants of the Rambler group originated from such species as the Vihura rose and the multiflora rose (multiflora).

As a result of crossing a group of rambler roses with tea, hybrid-tea, remontant roses and a floribunda rose, a group of climbing roses with shoots up to four meters long was formed, which they called climbing roses - Climber, or climbing large-flowered roses - climbers. Roses of this group bloom profusely with large flowers - from 4 cm in diameter or more - collected in small loose inflorescences, many varieties bloom twice a season. The shape of the flowers resemble tea-hybrid roses. Plants of this group are relatively winter-hardy and are almost not affected by powdery mildew.

The third group, Climbing, was formed by mutating large-flowered spray roses - hybrid tea, grandiflora and floribunda. Claimings differ from producing species only in stronger growth, later fruiting and even more large flowers- from four to eleven centimeters in diameter, which grow singly or in small inflorescences. Many varieties of climings bloom repeatedly. Roses of this group are grown only in the southern regions of the temperate zone with mild warm winters.

Planting climbing roses

When and where to plant climbing roses

All types of roses are quite capricious - it is not for nothing that the rose is called the queen of flowers. Climbing roses are no exception - planting and caring for climbing roses must be thought out to the smallest detail, and growing climbing roses should begin with choosing a site. These plants need bright light in the first half of the day so that the sun can dry the dew on the leaves and leave no chance for fungal diseases to settle on roses, however, the midday sun can already cause burns on the leaves and delicate petals of the plant, so in the afternoon, a plot with climbing roses must be protected from direct rays. In addition, the place where they grow climbing roses, should be protected from the cold north and northeast wind, and the location of the climbing rose on the corner of the building is undesirable because of the drafts that depress the delicate plant. It is best to place climbing roses on the south side of the building, especially since they do not require much space - for planting roses, a strip of land fifty centimeters wide is enough, provided that the nearest wall, plant and any other object are no closer than half a meter.

The soil for climbing roses must be permeable, but where groundwater is too close to the surface, roses are planted on specially arranged elevations - the root system of climbing roses sometimes goes two meters deep. To avoid stagnant water in the roots, roses are planted on a site located under a slope, at least minimal. Of all types of soils, loams are most suitable for climbing roses. Too light sandy or heavy clay soils will have to be adapted: sand is added to the clay for digging to the depth of the shovel bayonet, and clay is added to the sandy soil, and in order for the soils to become fertile, humus or humus must be added to them along with bone meal as phosphorus fertilizer . It is necessary to prepare a site for a rose in advance - preferably six months or at least a month or two before planting.

As for planting dates, in a temperate climate it is best to plant roses from the last decade of September to mid-October. You can plant roses in the spring - from mid-April to the end of May.

Planting a climbing rose in autumn

Before proceeding to the description of the planting process, it makes sense to talk about which planting material to prefer. Both saplings of own-rooted roses and saplings of roses grafted onto wild roses go on sale. What is the difference between them? Grafted roses differ from own-rooted ones in that their root represents one plant, and the shoots represent another, that is, a scion of a varietal climbing rose is grafted onto a wild rose root. Therefore, both planting and caring for a grafted rose, although slightly, differ from planting and caring for a rooted rose. For example, the planting depth of a grafted rose should be such that the grafting site is 10 cm below the surface. A grafted rose planted in this way begins to form roots from the cultural part of the bush, and the roots of the wild rose, losing their purpose, gradually die off. If the grafting site is left above the surface, the plant will be depleted and eventually die, since the cultural part of the seedling is evergreen, and the wild rose is a deciduous plant, and this discrepancy between scion and rootstock will lead to a sad end if planted incorrectly.

Climbing rose seedlings with an open root system should be soaked in water for a day before planting. Then you need to remove the leaves from the shoots, cut off the immature and broken shoots with secateurs, powdering the cuts with crushed charcoal, shorten both the roots and the ground part to 30 cm, remove the buds located below the grafting site from the grafted seedlings so that rose hips do not develop from them. After that, the seedlings are disinfected by immersing in a three percent solution. blue vitriol.

Planting pits for climbing roses are dug 50x50 in size, keeping a distance of at least a meter between them. The top, fertile layer of soil removed from each pit is mixed with half a bucket of manure and part of this mixture is poured into the pits, then the holes are well spilled with water. This should be done a day or two before planting. On the day of planting, prepare a mixture for pre-planting treatment of rose roots. To do this, dissolve three tablets of phosphorobacterin and one tablet of heteroauxin in half a liter of water and pour this solution into nine and a half liters of clay mash. Dip the roots of the seedling into the mash before lowering them into the hole. Pour a mound of a mixture of earth and manure into the bottom of the pit, place a seedling on it, the roots of which are treated with a talker, carefully straighten the roots, cover them with the same mixture of soil and manure and carefully tamp the surface. And remember: the place of grafting a rose grafted onto a wild rose should be at a depth of about ten centimeters underground, and the root collar of a rooted rose should be at least five centimeters. After planting, the rose is watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, earth is added to the near-stem circle and the seedling is spudded to a height of at least 20 cm.

Planting a climbing rose in spring

Climbing roses planted in spring are two weeks behind in development compared to roses planted in autumn and require more attention. Before planting, the shoots of seedlings are shortened to 15-20 cm, and the roots - up to 30 cm. After planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, highly spudded and covered with a film to create greenhouse conditions that contribute to faster survival of seedlings. The film must be lifted daily for several minutes to ventilate the seedlings. It is advisable to gradually increase the ventilation time, since at the same time the seedlings are hardened. When the threat is over return frosts, the film is removed, and the site is mulched. If you planted roses after frost in dry, warm weather, mulch the tree trunks with peat or any other suitable material after planting.

Caring for climbing roses in the garden

How to care for a climbing rose

Caring for climbing roses consists in regular watering of the plant, fertilizing, pruning, and fighting possible diseases or pests and in preparation for winter. Due to the nature of the structure, climbing roses need support. Climbing roses are quite drought tolerant, and in in large numbers they do not need water - they are moistened once a week or a decade according to the principle “less is better, but more often”, that is, 1-2 buckets of water are spent on each bush. To prevent the water from spreading, make around trunk circle low earth mound. Two or three days after watering, in order to retain moisture in the soil and provide air access to the roots, loosen the soil around the bush to a depth of 5-6 cm. soil you will need much less often.

Young bushes are not fed until August, since the nutrients contained in the soil have not yet been used up; closer to autumn, a solution of potassium salts is added to the soil to prepare the roses for wintering. It is best to use an infusion of wood ash for these purposes. When feeding the bushes of the second year of life, organic fertilizers alternate with mineral fertilizers, and from the third year they switch exclusively to organic top dressing, which can be used as a solution of one liter of manure and a glass of wood ash in a bucket of water. Manure can be replaced with any other organic fertilizer. During the growing season, it is necessary to make at least five dressings. Do not apply fertilizer during flowering.

Support for climbing roses

The variety of supports for climbing roses is amazing: you can use an old dry tree, a lattice or an arch made of metal, wood or polymers, as well as metal rods curved in an arc as a support. However, no other plant will decorate a featureless wall or an unattractive building like climbing roses planted no closer than half a meter from the wall. Place a lattice or vertical guides on the wall, to which you will tie growing and flowering shoots, and an unremarkable structure will be transformed. However, you should be aware that on horizontally arranged lashes, flowers appear along their entire length, and on vertically fixed ones, only in their upper part.

Plastic twine is used as a fastening material, and in no case do they resort to using wire, coming up with all sorts of tricks, for example, wrapping the wire with paper or cloth. The stems are firmly attached to the support, nevertheless trying to ensure that the twine does not injure the stem. Inspect the supports regularly, because under the weight of the branches or from the wind they sometimes break, and this can lead to severe damage to the plant. It is necessary to dig in the supporting structure no closer than 30-50 cm from the bush.

Transplanting climbing roses

An adult plant is usually transplanted only for the sake of saving it, if time has shown that the place for the rose has been chosen unsuccessfully. Climbing roses are transplanted in autumn - in September or early October, no later than so that the plant has time to take root in a new place before winter. Sometimes transplantation is carried out in the spring, before the awakening of the kidneys. Before transplanting, the roses are removed from the support, all young shoots are kept at the ramblers, but their tops are pinched at the end of August to speed up the lignification of the shoots, and shoots older than two years are removed. In climbers and climbings, all long shoots are shortened by half. Then the bushes are carefully dug in a circle, stepping back from the center at a distance equal to two bayonets of a shovel. You need to dig deep, trying to keep the entire root system intact. After digging up the plant, shake off the ground from its roots, cut off the ragged and shaggy ends of the roots with a secateurs and transplant the plant into a pre-prepared hole, straightening the roots when planting so that they do not bend. After you fill the hole soil mixture, tamp the surface and pour plenty of water. After a few days, when the soil settles, add more earth mix to level the surface of the area, and do not forget to plant the plant high.

Pests and diseases of climbing roses

From insects, climbing roses are bothered by aphids and spider mites. If the aphid infestation of the rose is not total, try to deal with pests with folk remedies without resorting to chemical preparations. You can remove the aphids mechanically: hold the bud, leaf or stem with your gloved hands and remove the aphids. This method is good if the aphid has just appeared, but if it has already settled down on your rose and has begun to breed, grate the soap, fill it with water, let the solution brew and, when the soap has dissolved, strain the solution and spray roses with it. If this measure fails, buy an aphid insecticide labeled "for roses and vines" at the store and treat the rose with it, choosing a quiet, calm evening for this. As for spider mites, they appear on plants only during the dry, hot period, if you chronically forget to water them. Ticks settle on the underside of the leaves, feed on their juice, entangling the leaves with cobwebs. The leaves of the affected plant acquire a silver tint. In the fight against spider mite well proven such folk remedies, as infusions of yarrow, wormwood, tobacco or shag, after treatment with which on the third day, from 80 to 100% of insects die. An infusion of wormwood is made like this: half a kilogram of fresh wormwood is placed in a wooden bowl, poured with ten liters cold water and leave for two weeks for fermentation, then filter the sourdough, dilute with water in a ratio of 1:10 and treat the rose and the soil around it with the composition. If the situation requires urgent measures, treatment of the plant with Fitoverm will help, which, if necessary, can be repeated after two weeks. The method of application and dosage are indicated in the instructions for use of the drug.

Roses also have other pests - rose sawfly, cicada, leafworm, thrips, but if you follow the conditions of the plant's agricultural technology, they will not become a problem for you. As preventive measure you can plant marigolds around the rose - this neighborhood will save the rose from many troubles. In addition, develop the habit of spring and autumn preventive spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid.

Of the diseases for roses, the most dangerous are coniothyrium, bacterial cancer, powdery mildew, gray rot and black spot.

bacterial cancer appears different sizes tuberculous soft growths, eventually hardening and darkening from decomposition. The rose dries up and dies. There is no cure for bacterial cancer. Carefully inspect the planting material before buying, and before planting, disinfect the roots of the seedlings for two to three minutes in a three percent solution of copper sulphate. If you find signs of a disease on an adult bush, immediately remove the suspicious parts of the plant and treat the wounds with a solution of copper sulphate of the same consistency.

Coniothyrium - a fungal disease, the so-called cancer or bark burn. It is found in the spring, when the shelter is removed from the roses: red-brown spots appear on the bark, gradually turning black and turning into rings around the shoot. Such shoots should be cut off immediately, capturing some of the healthy tissue, and burned to avoid infecting other plants. To avoid the disease, nitrogen should be stopped before wintering, replacing it with potash fertilizers, which strengthen plant tissues. In addition, during thaws, you need to air the roses under cover.

powdery mildew looks like a whitish coating on the ground parts of the plant, eventually acquiring a brown tint. Contributes to disease high humidity air and sudden temperature fluctuations, excess nitrogen in the soil and improper watering. All affected parts of the plant are cut out and burned, after which the rose is treated with a three percent solution of iron or a two percent solution of copper sulphate.

black spot manifested by the appearance on the leaves of dark red-brown spots in a yellow rim, which merge with the development of the disease, causing premature leaf fall. Can prevent disease autumn dressing roses with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers at the root, as well as a three-stage treatment of the bush and the ground around it with a three percent solution Bordeaux mixture or iron sulfate at intervals of a week.

Gray rot destroys stems, shoots, buds and leaves of climbing roses, sharply reduces their decorative effect, reducing the intensity of flowering. If the disease has taken effect, the plant will have to be dug up and destroyed, but if you find it at the very beginning, you can destroy the fungal infection by treating the bush with a solution of 100 g of Bordeaux mixture in a bucket of water. If it is not possible to defeat the disease at once, the treatment can be repeated three more times at weekly intervals.

Sometimes, with absolute and obvious health, a climbing rose does not bloom, and you study rose diseases and their symptoms with bewilderment, but you cannot understand what is the reason. Sometimes the fact is that you bought an unsuccessful variety - weakly flowering, and besides, the location or composition of the soil was not what the rose required. Or maybe the fact is that last year's shoots did not survive the winter well. Analyze all the information about climbing roses, and you will definitely find the reason.

Pruning climbing roses

When to prune climbing roses

Pruning climbing roses is necessary for crown formation, stimulation abundant flowering along the entire height of the bush and to support the decorativeness of the plant that adorns a particular object. Proper pruning can provide almost continuous flowering roses throughout the growing season. Particular attention should be paid vegetative shoots, since the flowering of the bush mainly occurs precisely on the shoots of last year. Pruning is carried out in spring and autumn. At the beginning of the growing season, dead shoots and frostbite are removed from climbing roses of any group, and the ends of the shoots are cut off to a strong outer bud. Subsequent pruning depends on how many times your rose blooms during the growing season - once or more.

How to prune climbing roses

Roses that bloom once a season form flowers on the last year's shoots. Instead of faded (basal) shoots, from three to ten recovery shoots are formed, which will bloom next year, so the basal shoots after flowering must be cut at the root, and do this better in autumn, when preparing the plant for winter. In re-blooming roses for three years, on the main shoots are formed flowering branches different orders - from two to five. The flowering of these shoots weakens by the fifth year, so the main shoots in early spring should be cut to the ground after the fourth year of life. Repeat-flowering bushes should have one to three annual recovery shoots and three to seven main flowering shoots. However, most climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, from which only tops with underdeveloped buds are removed in spring.

Particular attention should be paid to young grafted roses planted in the current or last year: until the cultivated graft acquires its own root system, the roots of the wild rose rootstock will produce abundant shoots that must be removed immediately. In a year or two, when the wild rose root dies, the shoots will already give the roots of the scion.

Reproduction of climbing roses

How to propagate climbing roses

Climbing roses are propagated by seeds, as well as layering, cuttings and grafting. The easiest way to propagate a rose is by layering, and propagation by cuttings gives good results. Concerning seed propagation, then it is better to buy seed for this purpose in a store, since the seeds collected from roses growing in the garden do not retain the varietal characteristics of the parent plant, so it is not known what kind of rose will grow from them. However, for the sake of the experiment, it is worth trying: after all, what are you risking?

Growing climbing roses from seeds

Buy from a store or collect the seeds of roses growing in your garden, put them in a sieve and dip them in a bowl of hydrogen peroxide for half an hour - this measure helps to disinfect the seeds and prevents mold during the subsequent stratification of the seed. Then spread the seeds on cotton pads moistened with hydrogen peroxide and cover with the same peroxide-soaked disks on top, place these “sandwiches” in individual plastic bags, write the date and name of the variety on them, put them in a container and put them in the vegetable section of the refrigerator. From time to time check the condition of the seeds, and if you notice mold, soak them again in peroxide, change the disks to new ones soaked in the same composition, and put them in the refrigerator again. After one and a half to two months, transfer the germinated seeds to individual peat tablets or pots, mulching the surface thin layer perlite to avoid black leg infection. Seedlings will need ten hours of daylight and watering as the soil dries. With the normal development of seedlings, the first buds will appear within two months after planting the seeds in pots, and after another month and a half, the first flowers will open. Continue caring for the seedlings, feed them with a weak solution of complex fertilizer, and plant them in open ground in the spring and take care of them like an adult plant.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

The easiest to implement, since in most cases this method gives one hundred percent result. You can cut cuttings from flowering or flowering shoots from mid-June to early August. The segment must have at least two internodes. The lower cut of the cutting is made under the kidney at an angle of 45º, the upper cut is straight, as far as possible from the kidney. The lower leaves are removed from the cutting, the upper ones are shortened by half. The cutting is stuck to a depth of 1 cm in a pot of sand or a mixture of sand and soil, covered with a glass jar or plastic bottle and placed in a bright place, protected from direct sunlight. Water the soil in a pot without removing the banks. It is only necessary to treat the lower cut of the cutting with a root-forming agent before planting if you are dealing with a variety that does not root well, but in most cases, rooting of the cuttings is easy.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

The shoot you have planned in the spring is cut under the buds, placed in a dug groove 10-15 cm wide and approximately the same depth, at the bottom of which a layer of humus is laid, sprinkled with a layer of earth, the layers are fixed in several places and covered with soil so that the top of the layer remains above the area surface. When watering the bush, do not forget to water the dug layers. In a year, next spring separate the cuttings from the mother plant and transplant it to a new location.

Grafting climbing roses

The grafting of a cultivated rose eye on a rosehip root is called budding. This procedure is carried out from the end of July to the end of August. Rose hips are watered abundantly before grafting, then a T-shaped incision is made on the root neck of the stock, the bark is hooked and slightly pulled away from the wood. The peephole is cut off from the handle of a cultivated rose along with the adjacent bark and a layer of wood, the peephole is tightly inserted into the T-shaped incision and the grafting site is tightly wrapped with an occlusion film. After that, the wild rose is spudded above the vaccination site by at least 5 cm, after two weeks the bandage can be loosened, and in the spring of next year the film is removed completely.

Climbing roses after flowering

Climbing roses have faded - what to do?

In early autumn, climbing rose bushes begin to gradually prepare for winter. From the end of August, they stop watering them, loosening the soil around them, replacing nitrogen in top dressing with potassium. The tops of unripened shoots are cut off. All climbing roses hibernate under cover, but for this they must first be removed from the support and laid on the ground. A young bush can be laid easily, but bending an old, powerful climbing rose to the ground is not a matter of one day, you may need a whole week for this, and the process must take place at a positive temperature, because even with a light frost the stems become brittle and break. Learn it.

How to cover climbing roses for the winter

They cover the rose when the temperature drops to -5 ºC, you should not do this before, because the rose will not have time to get hardened, besides, it can rot or start growing, being under cover without air for too long. Climbing roses need to be covered in dry, calm weather. Remove the roses from the support, clean the leaves from the branches, cut off the damaged shoots, tie the lashes with a rope and carefully lay them on a bed of spruce branches or dry leaves (never put roses on bare ground!). Press or pin the roses to the ground, cover them with spruce branches, dry leaves or dry grass from above, cover the base of the bush with sand or earth, then cover the lying roses with plastic wrap, lutrasil, roofing felt or some other waterproof material so that between the rose and the film there was an air gap.

Climbing roses in winter

During winter thaws in clear, dry weather, open the film for a short time, letting the roses breathe in the winter air - this will do them good. However, do not remove spruce branches or leaves! As soon as signs of spring appear, remove the film - being under cover all winter without fresh air roses can get sick. Do not be afraid that they may freeze - you did not forget to cover them with spruce branches.

Varieties of climbing roses

We offer you an acquaintance with some popular varieties of climbing roses, which we have divided into groups for convenience. So:

Varieties of small-flowered climbing roses (ramblers)

• Bobby James- a vigorous variety recognized throughout the world up to 8 m in height with a crown width of up to 3 m, with bright green leaves, which are almost invisible during flowering due to the abundance of white-cream flowers with a musky aroma with a diameter of 4-5 cm. Needs in a large space and strong supports. The variety is frost-resistant. If you asked if this climbing rose is suitable for the Moscow region, any professional would answer you in the affirmative;
• Ramblin Rector- a variety with pale green beautiful leaves, whose lashes reach a length of five meters, small semi-double flowers in an amount of up to forty pieces are collected in large racemose inflorescences of a creamy shade, which fades to white in the bright sun. This rose can be grown as a shrub;
• Super Excelsa- up to two meters high and wide, double bright crimson flowers are collected in brushes. Flowering is permanent - until the end of summer, but the raspberry color fades in the sun. Winter hardy and resistant to powdery mildew.

Varieties of large-flowered climbing roses (climers and climings)

• Elf- a relatively new variety, an upright bush, vigorous, reaching a height of two and a half meters, and a width of one and a half meters. White with greenery, densely double flowers with a diameter of up to 14 cm exude a fruity aroma. Blooms until the end of summer. Disease resistant;
• Santana- bush up to 4 m tall with carved dark green foliage and velvety bright red semi-double flowers with a diameter of 8-10 cm. Repeated flowering. Excellent winter hardiness and disease resistance;
• Polka- a bush of this variety reaches a height of two or more meters, its leaves are shiny, dark green, double apricot flowers, up to 12 cm in diameter. It blooms two or three times during the summer. Resistant to powdery mildew. Requires good shelter for the winter;
• indigoletta- a vigorous bush up to three meters high, up to one and a half meters in girth, with dark green dense leaves. An unusually beautiful shade of lilac double flowers with a diameter of up to 10 cm are collected in inflorescences. This variety is characterized by vigorous growth, pleasant aroma, repeated flowering during the growing season and relative disease resistance.

We offer you an acquaintance with another group of climbing roses - these are the so-called Cordes hybrids, which, for unknown reasons, are not separated into a separate group, but are included in the group of ramblers:

• Lagoon– fragrant tall rose, reaching a height of three meters and one meter in girth. Terry dark pink flowers up to 10 cm in diameter are collected in brushes. Blooms twice during the summer. Resistant to blackleg and powdery mildew;
• Golden Gate- a powerful bush with a large number of shoots, reaching a height of three and a half meters. Golden-yellow semi-double flowers up to 10 cm in diameter, exuding a strong fruity aroma, collected in a brush. Blooms twice a season;
• Sympathy- a vigorous branchy shrub up to three meters high and up to two wide. Luxurious hue bright red flowers collected in small inflorescences. It blooms several times during the season, but the first bloom is the most abundant. Frost-resistant, intensively growing, disease-resistant variety, not afraid of rain or wind.

Beautiful, well-groomed ... In a word, not a garden, but a photo from a magazine. Are you dreaming about this? Select a corner for a rose garden on the site. Create it according to your own scheme, without involving a designer in the design. How to make a rose garden in the country with your own hands - read the article.

Types and styles of rose gardens

To create a perennial flower garden of roses that will delight you for more than one year, decide on a goal. Think about what you would like to see in this corner, what mood you want to charge from it. Before you make a rose garden with your own hands, look at photos of different flower beds and choose the one that suits you. There are several types of design:

• Romantic. This flower garden looks good near the gazebo. Consists of roses of gentle shades. In conjunction with tall plants creates an atmosphere of comfort, peace;

romantic rose garden

• front door. As the name implies, these are festive compositions with bright colors often in contrast. Greenery looks very elegant and advantageous here;

front rose garden

• Visible from one side. Suitable for small areas. As an option, place it near a wall or near a fence. For example, place tall park roses in the background. Closer to the edges - medium-sized climbing, in the foreground - ground cover;

Rosary, visible from one side

• Visible from different angles. Flowers for this rose garden should be planted from the center to the edges. Inside will be the most tall plants, you need to surround them with medium-sized roses. The composition should be completed by low-growing varieties;

Rosary seen from different angles

• Vertical. Climbing perennial varieties roses will perfectly decorate the arch or gazebo, eventually completely covering them;

Vertical rose garden

Advice. Remember that roses cannot grow in the right direction on their own. Do it by hand, using supports and garters. Form weaving in accordance with your idea.

• Rosary-rock garden. Ground cover varieties are used for it. They bloom profusely and are unpretentious in care. Roses of this type grow well, so they quickly make a fragrant motley carpet. A beautiful ensemble is obtained from a combination of roses with stones on an alpine hill;

Rosary-rock garden

• Mobile. The name speaks for itself: this is a mobile rose garden that can be arranged in containers, flowerpots. Looks harmoniously along the paths, at the entrance, best of all in a sunny place. For such a flower garden, take low, profusely flowering varieties of roses. After planting, drain, do not forget about watering and fertilizing. For the winter, store the containers in a heated room.

Mobile rose garden

In addition, decide on the style of your future rosary. In modern design, the most common:

landscape rose garden

How to chart a rosary

Having decided on the place, type and style of the rose garden, draw up its plan. It will help you visualize the final version of the flower garden. To begin with, mark the borders of the future kingdom of roses on the diagram. For them, you can use borders or undersized flowers.

To various plants do not interfere with each other, decide on the sizes and varieties. Look at the photos of blooming roses, choose the ones you like. Write down their names and mark them on the diagram with numbers. Mark where you are going to take place undersized, and where - tall.

Rosary plan

Which corners will be occupied by perennial flowers, and where new bushes will need to be planted annually is another aspect of the plan. Mark on the diagram the areas where you want to plant certain groups of roses. Think about whether their color combination will be harmonious.

Advice. In order for groups of plants that are inharmonious in color to “get along” in one rose garden, dilute them with varieties with white inflorescences. Do not combine warm shades (cream, orange) with cold ones (burgundy, cherry).

Before you make a rose garden with your own hands, decide: where and what crops will be planted as background. Consider whether they fit into the ensemble you created perennial shrubs or rock compositions. look various photos with diagrams and draw up your plan on paper.

How to make a rose garden with your own hands. Instruction

1. Prepare the area. It should be sunny, but not blown, free from debris, weeds. "Queens of flowers" like well-drained soil, by no means clay. The ideal option is to take care of the soil in advance, around the middle of summer, in order to plant roses in the fall. To do this, dig the ground (approximate depth - 60 cm), loosen the top layer and apply fertilizer. In 2-3 months, get good soil suitable for roses.

   

   Garden tools for arranging a rose garden with your own hands

2. Make holes. Their depth is about 10 cm more than the length of the roots (50-60 cm), width - from 25 cm to 1.5 m (depending on the variety). If the groundwater in your area is more than 1 m, you can do without drainage. Otherwise, put small stones, gravel or expanded clay on the bottom of each hole, pour some earth on top.

   

   Preparing holes for planting roses

3. Prepare seedlings. Cut the roots to a length of 30 cm, remove the damaged ones. The part that remains above the ground, shorten to 2-3 strong shoots. Leaves on the handle should not be.

   

   Seedling prepared for planting in open ground

4. Remove the bush from the container or pot and plant, after moistening it. This is necessary so that the earthen ball does not crumble. Depending on the growing conditions, seedlings are distinguished:
   • with a closed root system (initially, each sprout was planted in a separate container, in which it grew);
   • with an open root system (such specimens grew in the field and were placed in containers immediately before the sale).

   

   Scheme: the process of planting rose bushes

5. Based on this, there are differences in landing. Bushes with a closed root system are simply lowered vertically into the hole and evenly covered with earth (for this they need to be shaken periodically). For seedlings of the second type, you should first make a small mound in a dug hole. They put a bush on it and cover it with earth. In both cases, make sure that the roots do not bend upwards.
6. After planting, compact the soil, and loosen the top layer. Water the seedlings.

   

   Bush after planting in the ground

Rules for the care of the rosary

Regardless of which rose garden you prefer (romantic or rock garden), within 2 weeks after planting, do not forget about regular watering of the bushes. For the winter, you need to spud the holes with earth (20-30 cm) or cover the shoots with sawdust and sand. Mulch the soil to keep it from drying out.

Watering rose bushes

Add organic or mineral supplements. Weed and prune roses in summer, spring and after flowering. If grafting plants, remove wild growth. Form bushes in a timely manner. For tall varieties, put props.

Combinations of roses with other plants

If you decide not to make a rose garden exclusively from roses alone, think about the flowers that will grow next to them. After all, how successful the combination will be will depend on general form your flower garden. Carefully select the border for the bushes. It will hide their lower, non-flowering part. For example, for a rose garden in a romantic style, a green or silver frame made of boxwood, chistets is suitable.

Rose bushes next to other crops

For a vibrant rose garden, add greenery, gold, or purple to the fence. Barberry, aster, santolina are suitable for this. Good neighbors for the "Queen of Flowers":

• perennials - irises, carnation, periwinkle, primrose;
• annuals - pansies, salvia, begonia, delphinia.

Advice. To protect against pests and diseases, it is worth planting marigolds, lavender or sage next to roses.

Roses look beautiful with plants that are not afraid of shade: hosta or geyhera. The climbing company will be clematis. Any ground cover plants are suitable for rock garden. In combination with stones on a hill in a rose garden, ferns or conifers look advantageous.

Landscape composition with a rose

Of course, the design of the rosary requires a lot of work and considerable time. But the result is worth it. You will be reminded of this every year by the colorful blooms and aroma of the flower garden, lovingly created by your hands.

How to create a rose garden: video

Rosary at their summer cottage: photo

Climbing roses have shoots that are several meters long. The flowers are white, pink, red, yellow from 2.5 to 9 cm, simple to semi-double, odorless, collected in inflorescences. Flowering is long, begins in June.

When describing climbing roses, it should be noted that they occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening, go well with small architectural forms, are indispensable for creating decorative columns, pyramids, arches, trellises, green decoration of building walls, balconies, arbors.

There are so many varieties of climbing roses that would take a lot of time and space to describe. However, according to the nature of growth, these roses can be divided into three groups:

• Curly - from 5 m to 15 m high.
• Climbing height - from 3 m to 5 m.
• Semi-climbing height - from 1.5 m. - 3 m.

The formation of shoots in climbing roses is continuous, due to which the phases of flowering and budding are very extended. The total duration of flowering is from 30 to 170 days. Among the re-blooming roses, a group of large-flowered, or Climings, stands out for decorativeness.

Growing climbing roses

Choosing a place for planting and growing. For cultivation it is necessary to choose sunny and ventilated places. Roses are photophilous plants, so it is best to plant them on the walls and supports of the southern and southwestern exposure. Preference should still be given to the southern exposure; good lighting helps the growth ripen, on which flowering will occur next year.

Groundwater should be no higher than 70-100 cm, optimally 100-150 cm. In swampy, damp places prone to flooding, these flowers cannot be grown.

When choosing a place to plant, be sure to think about how you will lay the plants on the ground for shelter for the winter. Climbing roses grow to a height of more than 2.5 m. When laid for the winter, they should not “cover” other plants that do not require shelter.

What should be the soil. For the cultivation of climbing roses, fertile, loose, moderately moist soil with a fertile layer of at least 30 cm is required. And so, in the place of the future rose garden, it is necessary to prepare the soil: for this purpose, it is better to use rotted manure (cow), if the soil is too heavy, you need to add sand, peat, which will give the soil friability.

Selection of seedlings. The seedling should have 2-3 well-ripened lignified shoots with green intact bark and a developed root system with many thin roots (lobe). The root neck of a seedling at the age of 1-2 years looks like a slight thickening separating the wild stock and the stem of the cultivated plant.

Planting climbing roses

When is the best time to plant roses? In central Russia, it is preferable to plant roses in autumn from September to the end of October, or in early spring from mid-April to the end of May. In autumn, plants must be planted 2 cm deeper than in spring (total depth 5 cm), so that the shoots of planted roses do not dry out and do not suffer from the approaching cold weather, they are sprinkled with earth and sand to a height of 20-25 cm. sub-zero temperatures plants cover for the winter.

Preparing for landing. Seedlings with an open root system are soaked in water a day before planting. Leaves are removed from the shoots and unripe and broken shoots are cut out with a sharp pruner. Aboveground part shorten to 30 cm, long roots are also cut off - up to 30 cm, cutting rotten roots to a healthy place. The buds located below the vaccination site are removed - wild shoots will develop from them. Seedlings are disinfected by dipping in 3% copper sulphate.

Landing. Planting pits are prepared with a size of 50 × 50 cm, the distance between plants should be at least 2 - 3 meters. When planting, do not strongly bend the roots of plants. They are supposed to be freely laid out in a hole so that they go to the bottom without bending upwards, while holding the seedlings at such a height that the grafting site is about 10 cm below the soil surface. (Other varieties of roses are planted 5 cm deep, but climbing roses are planted deeper.)

Then the hole is filled two thirds of the depth with earth, compacted so that it fits properly to the roots and the plant is watered. Thorough watering in the spring is especially important. Only after the water has been absorbed, the pit is filled with earth, and the seedling is spudded to a height of at least 20 cm.

Before the onset of frost, the level of hilling is raised. In the spring, this sprinkled earth will protect the plant from scorching rays sun and drying winds. For greater reliability, the seedling can be slightly shaded with needles. In dry weather, it is watered every 5-6 days. Three weeks after the spring planting, the ground is carefully raked from the bush. It is advisable to do this on a cloudy day, when there is no danger of a sharp drop in temperature at night.

In early April, they open and process roses in the same way. autumn planting. At the same time, care must be taken to ensure that the most sensitive place of the whole plant, the grafting site, remains 10 cm below ground level. In the spring, new shoots will grow over it.

If a climbing rose grows against a wall, then the distance to it should not be less than 50 cm. The plant is brought to the wall itself with an inclined planting at an appropriate angle. If the rose were grown right next to the wall, it would constantly suffer from a lack of moisture.

For late spring planting, carried out in dry, warm weather, it is useful to cover the soil with a layer of moist peat or any other mulch. After planting, the shoots are cut into 3-5 buds.

Caring for climbing roses

Caring for climbing roses consists in proper watering, timely top dressing, pruning, disease and pest control, as well as loosening and mulching the soil. In addition, plants must be provided with beautiful supports and covered for the winter.

In response to such care and careful care, these beauties will certainly thank you with magnificent flowering throughout almost the entire summer.

How to water. Good plant care is, first of all, proper watering. During the growing season, roses consume a lot of water. In the absence of precipitation from the moment the buds appear, as well as after pruning, the plants are watered every 10-12 days.

When watering, the soil must be soaked so that moisture penetrates deeper than the location of the roots (1-2 buckets per plant). On the 2-3rd day after watering (or rain), the soil around the plant must be loosened to a depth of 5-6 cm, which helps to retain moisture in the soil and better air access to the roots. Loosening can be replaced by mulching the soil.

The lack of moisture in the soil is reflected in the growth of roses, and the concentration of salts in the substrate also increases. But it must be remembered that too frequent watering from the hose raises the humidity of the air, and this contributes to the spread of fungal diseases.

Top dressing. To ensure proper plant care, it is imperative to fertilize the soil. Climbing roses need regular feeding more than others. Throughout the summer, they need to be fed every 10-20 days, alternating nitrogen fertilizers with complete, complex ones. Fertilizers can be both dry and liquid.

First of all, in the spring they spend liquid top dressing full mineral fertilizer (according to instructions). After 10 - 20 days, feed the plants with organic matter (1 bucket of mullein for 5 buckets of water + 3 kg of ash) 1 liter of this mixture is diluted in a bucket of water and watered roses under the root. Such an operation will provide an abundant start of flowering with brightly colored flowers.

Such top dressing, alternating with each other, should be done until mid-summer. From mid-July, they stop feeding with nitrogen fertilizers and switch to phosphorus and potash fertilizers so that the bush has already begun preparing for winter.

With any top dressing, the dosage must be strictly observed! With an excess of any chemical elements, the condition of the roses may deteriorate. Such care will only harm the plants.

Pruning climbing roses

Pruning plays a very important role in the care of climbing roses.

The main purpose of pruning is crown formation, obtaining abundant and long flowering keeping plants healthy.

With good care, roses grow long shoots over the summer, up to 2-3.5 m. They are covered for the winter. In the spring of the following year, only frozen and propped up shoots and the ends of the shoots are pruned to a strong outer bud.

In the future, climbing roses are pruned, depending on how these roses bloom, once or twice. These groups of roses differ significantly in the nature of flowering and shoot formation.

The first form flowering branches on last year's shoots. They don't bloom again. In replacement of faded shoots, the so-called main (basal), these roses form from 3 to 10 recovery (replacement) shoots that will bloom for the next season. In this case, the basal shoots after flowering are cut out to the base, like in raspberries. Thus, bushes of single-flowering climbing roses should consist of only 3-5 annual and 3-5 biennial flowering shoots.

If climbing roses belong to the group of re-flowering, then flowering branches of different orders (from 2 to 5) are formed on the main shoots for three years, the flowering of such shoots weakens by the fifth year. Therefore, the main shoots are cut out after the fourth year to the base. If many new strong growth shoots form at the base of these shoots (which usually happens when the roses are well cared for), then the main shoots are cut out, as in the first group.

In repeat-flowering bushes, it is enough to have 1 to 3 annual recovery shoots and 3 to 7 flowering main shoots. Re-blooming roses are recommended to be pruned in early spring. The meaning of pruning is to leave a limited number of the strongest, youngest and longest branches on the bush. If the lashes are too long compared to the support, they must be cut.

It is important to remember that most climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, which must be preserved to their full length, only the very tops with underdeveloped buds should be removed. Therefore, in the fall, such roses should not be cut; the main pruning is carried out in early spring.

Proper pruning and careful maintenance can ensure almost continuous blooming of roses in your garden throughout the growing season.

Reproduction of climbing roses

Cuttings are planted in the substrate to a depth of 1 - 1.5 cm.

Cuttings are cut from flowering or fading shoots with 2-3 internodes. The lower end is made oblique (at an angle of 45 °) directly under the kidney, and the upper end is made straight away from the kidney. The lower leaves are completely removed, and the rest are cut in half. The cutting is planted in a substrate (in a mixture of earth and sand or in clean sand) in a pot, box or immediately in the ground to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The cuttings are covered with a glass jar or film from above and shaded from the sun. Watering is carried out without removing the film.

Cuttings in early spring also give good results. During spring pruning there are many cut shoots that can be successfully rooted. Planting and caring for cuttings is carried out according to the above method.

Shelter of climbing roses for the winter

Shelter of roses for the winter can take several days.

Be prepared for the fact that the shelter for the winter of a climbing rose can last for several days, or even for a whole week. A rose with thick, powerful shoots is unlikely to be laid on the ground in one day. This should be done at a positive temperature, in frost the stems become brittle and break easily. In no case do not try to press each shoot separately to the ground. This can only be done by tying the entire bush into a bundle or into two bundles and then spread them out in different directions.

If, when tilting the bush, you feel that the stems may break, stop tilting and fix the bush in this position. Let him stand like this for a day or two, and then continue until you press him to the ground.

It is necessary to cover a rose pinned to the ground with the onset of frost. Sometimes it has to be done even in the snow. In the southern regions, there is enough shelter from lutrasil. Do not forget to cover only the base of the bush with sand or earth. If your winters are cold, cover the bush with spruce branches and also cover it in several layers with covering material or roofing material.

Supports for climbing roses

The possibilities to beautifully decorate your garden with climbing roses are quite diverse: you can often see beautiful gazebos and terraces, balconies, grottoes and pavilions, arches and pergolas decorated with roses, and there is no need to talk about how these plants transform the faceless walls of buildings.

Climbing roses can brighten up a home like no other flowering plant. One climbing rose is enough to transform a nondescript stone wall or emphasize the originality of the facade, to add romance to the previously ordinary entrance to the house.