Repairing beardless strawberries in the garden. The best varieties of strawberries remontant bezusoy

What could be more wonderful than fresh juicy strawberries straight from the garden? It is generally accepted that gardeners can feast on them only one month a year. But it turns out that there are varieties of strawberries that can bear fruit all summer long - these are remontant strawberries. Recently, homeowners are increasingly thinking about how to grow such strawberries in order to harvest from the garden throughout the hot and sunny season.

Growing garden strawberries, many do not even know that there are such special varieties of this berry as remontant. The concept of "remontant" means that the plant can bloom and produce fresh fruit several times during the summer.

Garden remontant strawberries begin to bloom early, from about the middle of the last month of spring - May, and bear fruit until the first autumn frosts.

In the first two years of cultivation, such strawberries give a very large yield, but over time, the number of berries harvested from the garden decreases, and it is necessary to replace all plants on the plot with young ones.

Such strawberries reproduce in different ways: among the whole variety of varieties, there are those that are grown only from seeds, propagated by dividing the bush, and there are those that can be propagated with a mustache. The latter will easily transfer their qualities and properties to young plants.

The ancestor of the remontant strawberry is the usual forest one, from which the taste qualities were inherited by the berry.

There is an opinion that remontant strawberries taste worse than ordinary garden strawberries - perhaps that is why such varieties are not popular. But, as has been noticed in recent years, often even Victoria strawberries, which are considered the most delicious, do not produce such fragrant and sweet berries. And this is an occasion to still try to independently grow remontant strawberries in your garden.

Varieties of remontant strawberries

Varieties of remontant strawberries are divided into two types:

• small-fruited, which give small, but fragrant berries, resembling wild strawberries in appearance;

• large-fruited, with large berries, often referred to as strawberries.

By the way, strawberries are the same strawberries, just gardeners are used to calling large garden berries strawberries, and small forest berries strawberries.

Depending on the variety, remontant strawberries bear fruit not only with red berries: there are also varieties that will delight you with unusual white, dark red, yellow flowers of berries.

The main, grown by summer residents, and the most famous varieties of remontant strawberries are as follows:

Variety	A photo	Description
		A small-fruited variety that does not let out a mustache. The flowering period is long, the yield is very high, the fruiting period is from May to September-October. Berries reach a weight of 8 grams, red, juicy and fragrant. Among the small-fruited varieties, Alexandria has the largest berries. Often grown in pots, not just outdoors. With proper care and properly organized wintering, the bushes will bear fruit abundantly for several years.
		A variety with such an important name was bred in Germany. Beardless small-fruited variety, characterized by high yield. Frost resistant. Feels great in open ground or in boxes on balconies and loggias. The height of the bush is up to 20 cm, the berries are medium in size (the weight of one is up to 5 g). Delicious and fragrant berries rightfully allowed this variety to be the favorite among the varieties of small-fruited strawberries.
		A large-fruited mid-late ripening variety obtained by crossing American Concord and Gonzago. The berries are red, sweet and juicy, fragrant, wide cone shape, each weighing up to 50 grams. Fruits well and stably every year, winter-hardy
		The variety is medium late in terms of ripening, large-fruited. Berries of rich burgundy color, weighing up to 35 g, are distinguished by good dessert-tasting qualities. Bushes of medium size, bisexual flowers. The crop is hardy and disease resistant
		The homeland of the variety is France. The variety is productive, forms a small amount of whiskers. The berries are medium in size, wide, rich red in color, glossy in appearance. Propagated by seeds
		German variety, large-berry, well known among gardeners and considered one of the best varieties of strawberries. The berries are conical in shape, large (each weighing more than 20 grams), dark red, sweet and sour taste, fragrant. Bushes form little mustache, frost-resistant, but susceptible to various diseases

The varieties Gridneva Monthly, Superfection, Karpatka, Madame Muto, Albion, Snow White and others are also well known.

Growing from seed

How to turn part of your garden into a strawberry clearing? Of course, just grow strawberries on it yourself. Subject to all the rules of planting and caring for plants, the growing process is quite easy and pleasant, and adult strawberry bushes will delight you with an excellent harvest over time.

You have chosen the varieties that you like, and now it is time to sow the seeds and get seedlings.

1. The timing of sowing seeds of strawberries varies from February to April: it all depends on the conditions that you provide them. The fact is that strawberries love light, and in order for the seeds to germinate, it is important to ensure the correct light regime: daylight hours should last about 13 hours, so in February the seedling boxes have to be highlighted. And you can not suffer and sow the seeds in April.
2. Take care of the soil and containers: seedling boxes or pots need to be disinfected, and the soil must be treated (calcined, frozen or spilled with potassium permanganate). Strawberries love airy soil and soft, so it is advisable to sift the soil through a sieve.

   

   If you opted for self-preparation of the soil mixture, then prepare it like this: mix 3 parts of humus or compost with 3 parts of earth from the garden and 0.5 part of ash, or 1 part of peat with 1 part of sand and 2 parts of sod land . The soil is ready.

3. Prepare the seeds for planting: for this, stratify. Remember: in the wild, strawberry seeds begin to germinate in the spring, after the snow melts, and for faster seed germination, we must create conditions close to natural for them. To do this, pour strawberry seeds on a damp cloth, wrap it in plastic and put it in the refrigerator for several days.
4. Prepared seeds are scattered on slightly moistened soil and covered with glass.

   

5. You can also combine the processes of stratification and sowing: to do this, fill small plastic containers with drainage soil mixture, moisten it and distribute the seeds over the surface of the soil without covering it with earth. Place about 2 cm of snow on top of the seeds, cover the container with a lid or film and refrigerate for a couple of weeks. The snow will gradually melt, and the melt water will move the seeds deeper into the soil. This method is as close as possible to weather conditions.

   

6. Keep the air temperature in the room around +20 and wait for the sprouts.

Video - How to sow strawberries

seedling care

In order for strawberry seeds to germinate and turn into strong seedlings, it is important to provide them with proper care.

Landing in the ground

Before planting seedlings of strawberries in the ground in the garden, the earth is well loosened. Then small holes are made for bushes with a depth of about 20 cm. At the bottom of the hole, add a little top dressing, which is prepared from ash, compost and biohumus (based on 1 bucket of garden soil - 2 cups of ash, 1 bucket of compost and 2 liters of biohumus).

Place the seedlings together with a clod of earth in the hole, after removing the lower leaves, and sprinkle with earth. Everything is ready! Now it remains only to properly care for the strawberries, and it will soon delight you with delicious and juicy fruits.

Video - How to plant strawberries in spring

Both adults and children love sweet and fragrant garden strawberries, but it’s a pity that you can feast on them in the Moscow region for only a month - from the end of June to the end of July. And I really want these berries to be in the garden longer. That is why lately, more and more often, gardeners are breeding remontant strawberries in their summer cottages, which bear fruit continuously or in waves until almost mid-autumn.

Remontant strawberries have a long period of flowering and fruiting(about 4 months) is due to the peculiarity of the growth of shoots (horns) and inflorescences. For the formation of flower buds of remontant varieties, relatively high daily temperatures (not lower than plus 15 ° C) and a long daylight hours (14-17 hours) are required, while ordinary garden strawberries lay flower buds in autumn with a short daylight hours (10-12 hours). and low air temperature.

On the horn, depending on the location terminal, apical and lower axillary inflorescences are formed, and in conditions of a long day and high temperature, they develop very quickly, in 2-3 weeks, therefore remontant varieties are early. These varieties include Ada, Mount Everest, Sakhalin, Red Rich, Selva, Moscow delicacy, Cleter, Star, Geneva.

Varieties are neutral day differ from remontants and regular short-day varieties in that they can be programmed to produce berries approximately three months after planting throughout the year (if grown in a greenhouse). In the conditions of the Non-Black Earth Region, they bear fruit from late June to late autumn. These include Tristar, Tribute, Ulster, Brighton, Hummi Genta. But when cultivating these varieties, gardeners have difficulties with reproduction, because they (with the exception of the Tristar variety) form few mustaches and rosettes.

Having received the first harvest, you should take care of the second(August-September). To enhance re-blooming, it is advisable to mow or cut the leaves immediately after harvesting the first summer crop, without damaging the apical bud.

Some varieties of remontant strawberries, unlike ordinary strawberries, also bear fruit on mustache rosettes (for example, Cardinal, Geneva), therefore, in these varieties, the leaves are not cut, and the mustache is used for "vertical" culture. Since plants are able to produce crops on newly formed rosettes on the whiskers (sometimes even without roots), you can create beautiful, solid vertical walls by tying the whiskers on a coarse mesh or other devices.

With a strong defeat of strawberries with gray rot the soil should be abundantly sprayed with a 2% solution of potassium chloride or infusion of ash (500-700 g per 10 liters of water).

After that the plantation fed with mineral fertilizers(ammonium sulphate - 25 g, superphosphate - 20 g, potassium sulphate - 25-30 g), pour warm water under the root, loosen the bushes and lightly spud. If possible, hilling is replaced with bedding from rotted manure or sifted compost.

Due to the laying of a large number of generative organs and the formation of many inflorescences, and hence berries, remontant varieties need very fertile soil and good care. Until green berries appear, the bushes are fed every 10-14 days with infusion of slurry (1: 8) with the addition of 200-250 g of ash per 10 liters of water. Feeding consumption - 10 liters per 5 linear meters of a row.

At the beginning of mass flowering (end of July - beginning of August), to improve the setting and increase the mass of the first berries, the plants are treated with a solution of boron, manganese and zinc, 2 g per 10 liters of water. All spraying is carried out in the evening or in cloudy, but not rainy weather.

Against slugs and grape snails, which are sometimes more than usual, pollinate the soil along the rows of plants with tobacco dust mixed with ash or slaked lime (1: 1) at a rate of 20-25 g / mg. In dry weather, against slugs, you can scatter dry superphosphate around a strawberry plantation or garden bed.

Strawberries respond well to loosening the soil - this provides unhindered air access to the roots, destroys weeds, and retains moisture in dry weather. Loosen the soil after every heavy rain or watering. To prolong autumn fruiting(until the end of September, and sometimes until October 10-15), in a warm and long autumn, remontant strawberries are grown under a translucent polymer film. Under such shelter, the berries tolerate low night temperatures and early frosts well. Fruiting is more abundant, in addition, the film inhibits the development of gray rot.

Remontant strawberries are covered on August 8-10 (in the Non-Chernozem region), stretching the film on light portable frames or constructing tunnels according to the size of the beds.

When growing strawberries under shelter, it is necessary to monitor the air temperature. If the temperature during the ripening of the berries there is above 25 ° C, the film is lifted to ventilate the plants.

The rest of the care for strawberries is the same as in open ground: they loosen the soil, remove weeds, water the bushes with warm water under the root. Remove the tunnels with the onset of frost.

Remontant strawberries can freeze even in autumn when the frost hits, and there is still little snow. Therefore, after removing the film, the plants are fed with wood ash at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon on a bush, loosen with a bayonet, spud or cover with humus or peat to a height of 8-10 cm, lifting the leaves. You can mulch the beds with dry sawdust with a layer of 5 cm. On top of the mulch, the beds must be covered with the first snow. Sheltered strawberries are not afraid of winter thaws and spring frosts.

Tatyana Nikitochkina, Dmitry Nikitochkin, candidates of agricultural Sciences

Remontant strawberries, growing and caring for which are not as difficult as they might seem at first glance, delight gardeners from the beginning of the summer season until the onset of frost. Strawberry lovers should definitely buy seeds and plant this berry, or rather its various varieties, in their garden plot.

Almost any person involved in the cultivation of strawberries should know that they reproduce by forming small new plants on their own creeping shoots. However, remontant strawberries belong precisely to the type of plants that do not throw out shoots for reproduction. In another way, this garden berry is called "beardless strawberries."

Here are the characteristic features of remontant strawberries:

• large fruit size;
• high seed germination;
• this garden berry does not require special care;
• in taste and aroma, the berries of this species are similar to wild strawberries;
• fruiting begins in mid-June and ends by autumn frosts.

Varieties of beardless strawberries

Remontant strawberries have several varieties. We list the most famous, giving delicious fruits.

• Alexandria. This variety has small and neat bushes, and red berries have a pleasant aroma. Fruit weight - from 5-8 g. This is an ornamental variety with a high yield. He practically does not need care.
• Ali Baba. After planting this variety, powerful bushes up to 15 cm high are formed. The number of inflorescences is usually large. The pulp of the berries is white, and the fruits themselves are bright red on the outside. The weight of berries reaches 3-5 g. This is a high-yielding variety that is resistant to drought, pests and diseases. It tolerates winter well, it is easy to care for it.
• Forest fairy tale. This hairless strawberry usually grows in medium size, bushes with a lot of fruit. Outside, the berries are red, conical in shape. The pulp of the fruit tastes sour-sweet. This is a high-yielding variety with a fruit weight of about 5 g. Care for strawberries of the Forest Fairy Tale variety is extremely simple.

How does a plant reproduce

Since the plant does not throw out whiskers, its reproduction is possible with the help of seeds. Although this activity is not so difficult, it requires certain knowledge.

1. First you need to prepare the ground. It should be nutritious and loose. Before planting, it is recommended to remove large lumps from the soil.
2. Seeds before planting in open ground must be planted in a small container filled with earth. Seeds should be planted in the soil at a distance of at least 1 cm from each other. Seeds should not be buried deep in the ground. A container with soil should be closed on top with a film or glass frame. This must be done in order to ensure a constant level of humidity.
3. After planting has been carried out, the crops must be hardened, gradually accustoming them to the air temperature in the room.

Growing remontant strawberries from seeds is best done in late spring - early summer. If the planting was earlier, then additional care may be required, namely, irradiation of plants with fluorescent lamps.

The beardless strawberry, after the planting has been carried out, usually sprouts after 14 days - 1 month. This may happen earlier, it all depends on the quality of the seeds used.

There is another way to reproduce this plant. During the 3–4th year of life, old rhizomes die off in remontant strawberries. In this case, the disintegration of the rosettes of the plant into separate parts, or particles, is observed. This division is the simplest and most natural way of reproduction, in which the cultivation of new bushes does not require planting seeds.

How to plant in the garden

Before growing plants in open ground, it is necessary to properly prepare the beds. First, it is worth making small cruciform holes in the ground. It is most convenient to do this with a knife. Then, in each such hole, it is necessary to place a young plant from those that were first planted in boxes at home. As the plants grow, the holes in the soil will expand from the growth of the root system.

In the garden, you can grow strawberry bushes in 2-3 rows. At the same time, the distance between rows should be made about 30 cm. Bushes of remontant strawberries should be at least 20-25 cm apart from each other.

Preparing for winter

The period of preparation for winter is very important for remontant strawberries. In the autumn period, it is worth making the last measures before wintering. At this time, plant care should include:

• gradual reduction in the number of irrigations;
• sanitization of bushes from pests;
• pruning diseased leaves of the plant, while not touching the healthy ones.

How to properly care for adult bushes?

Remontant strawberries do not belong to capricious crops. However, like other plants, after planting in the ground, it needs proper care. For the first time after planting in the ground, the sprouts that have emerged from the seeds should be watered frequently to ensure a good growth of the root system. Further care for an adult plant should include the following activities.

1. Regular feeding and watering.
2. Periodic inspection of plants for the timely detection of pests and diseased bushes. Systematic removal of diseased bushes and pest control.
3. Weeding to remove weeds.
4. Loosening.
5. Seating plantings during their growth in order to avoid thickening of plants in the garden.

Remontant strawberries have roots that do not go deep into the ground. If you cover the beds with mulch, this will preserve the looseness of the soil, effectively save moisture, and also protect strawberries from rot. According to research, this method can significantly increase the amount of harvest.

For mulching, you can take rotted leaves and needles, small sawdust or compost. The procedure should be repeated periodically.

Plant nutrition

Many gardeners prefer growing remontant strawberries due to the fact that when propagated from seeds, it will be possible to enjoy delicious berries in the summer of the same year. To obtain a high yield, in addition to basic care, it is also recommended to periodically fertilize strawberries with fertilizers.

The feeding procedure usually includes 3 stages. The first 2 relate to those strawberry bushes that have been growing for more than a year.

1. The first stage of feeding should be done in early March. In this case, it is recommended to use nitrogen-type fertilizers and apply them directly to the snow cover.
2. The second top dressing is made in April. During it, it is best to mulch the beds with organic and mineral fertilizers.
3. The third feeding should be done in September.

Care must be taken when fertilizing strawberries. If plants need additional cuttings, then compost can be used for this purpose.

Outcome

Caring for remontant strawberries is not so difficult. In order for the garden berry to please the owner with delicious fruits for more than one season, it is important to correctly follow all the preparations for wintering.

In addition, you should know that any remontant variety is a rather delicate culture, sensitive to a number of diseases. At the moment, in the assortment of shops with goods for gardening, a rich list of drugs for combating pests and plant diseases is offered. Therefore, when suspicious symptoms appear in a plant, it is advisable to purchase the necessary drug in time. After processing, you should refrain from picking strawberries for a few more days.

Remontant strawberries, or, as it is more correctly called, garden remontant strawberries, can increasingly be found in garden plots not only by amateurs, but also by professionals. She sometimes inhabits large territories, and the owners are satisfied with such coexistence. However, to my surprise, many people still have questions about the proper care of remontant garden strawberries, as if this overseas miracle was brought to our land just a couple of days ago.

Caring for remontant strawberry bushes. © Uteki

The main difference between remontant garden strawberries and ordinary strawberries is its ability to bloom and, accordingly, bear fruit twice a season, without interruption. Only a small fraction of plants have this ability - raspberries and a number of citrus fruits.

Garden strawberries of remontant varieties can lay flower buds either under long daylight conditions (for example, the Garland variety) or under neutral daylight conditions (for example, the Miracle of the World variety). It is noteworthy that varieties capable of laying flower buds in long daylight conditions give about 40% of their crop in July and up to 60% of their crop in August.

Remontant garden strawberry, capable of laying flower buds in neutral daylight conditions, blooms and bears fruit throughout the warm period, gradually giving up its crop. Given the great wear of plants, plantations of remontant strawberries that bear fruit twice a year also need to be changed once every three years, and those that bear fruit throughout the warm period - once every two years, each time changing the location of the site.

In our material, we will try to bring to your attention in as much detail as possible the subtleties of caring for remontant garden strawberries.

How to properly care for remontant garden strawberries?

By and large, varieties of remontant strawberries cannot be called capricious, they are all quite unpretentious, but there are still subtleties in care. For example, everyone knows that modern large-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries can form berries weighing from 65 to 90 grams or more. Naturally, this will lead with a high degree of probability to a rather rapid depletion of the soil and the need to apply additional fertilizers. Perhaps that is why a number of gardeners, contrary to popular belief, are advised to remove the very first spring flower stalks.

Then the second crop of remontant strawberries, firstly, will be much earlier than the due date, therefore, the plants will prepare for winter without human intervention. Secondly, the berries will be tastier and larger. Sometimes, in total, the total yield after such a simple method even exceeds two cumulative yields or all-season - in remontant varieties of a different type.

Caring for remontant garden strawberries includes strictly mandatory steps - these are indispensable watering (the plants must be provided with plenty of moisture), fertilizer (everything is good in moderation, but the plants should not suffer from a deficiency of one or another element), loosening the soil (after each watering and rain to avoid the formation of soil crust when air and water exchange is disturbed), mulching the beds (after each watering, as it inhibits the growth of weeds and the formation of soil crust), weed control (especially with wheatgrass - the most malicious competitor of crops) , destruction of pests and diseases (at the earliest stages of their manifestation), pruning of bushes (a specific procedure for remontant strawberries) and, finally, preparation for winter (an important stage in the life of remontant garden strawberries).

Important! Gardeners who have gone through fire and water recommend necessarily mulching beds with remontant garden strawberries, because the root system of this berry crop, unlike ordinary strawberries, is located high, and plants very often suffer from a banal lack of moisture. To save irrigation water, you need to use mulch almost immediately after watering (and it is better to water with water at room temperature and in the evening). Mulch can be spruce needles, sawdust, straw, humus, hay, ordinary mowed grass. In addition to protecting against moisture loss, the mulch will also protect the berries from splashing with soil during rain and watering and will slow down the growth of weeds (do not forget about them!).

Caring for remontant strawberries. © Alison

Watering remontant strawberries

Remontant varieties of garden strawberries need to be watered more often than ordinary strawberries, especially in the dry seasons of the year. Immediately after planting the seedlings, the plants must be watered every day, then after five or six days, watering can be done every other day, and in the end, watering just a couple of times a month is enough.

For watering remontant strawberries, you can only use warm water at room temperature, it’s great if it is rainwater collected in a barrel painted black. Plantings can be watered both in the morning and evening chats. When watering, try to ensure that the soil in the area where remontant garden strawberries grow is moistened from two to three centimeters at a time.

As for the mulch of remontant strawberries, as we already wrote above, it is needed, but it is not at all necessary to cover the soil with mulch immediately after watering, this can be done the next day. Instead of mulch, if, for example, it is raining, the soil between the rows can be gently loosened. But remember: it is very important not to damage the roots, which, as we have already written, are located closer to the soil surface than those of common strawberries. The main thing when mulching or loosening is to avoid soil crust so that air can freely penetrate to the roots.

If there is no rain for a long period and the soil dries up, then you can break all the rules of watering and moisten the soil almost every day, not allowing the soil to dry out too much, this is very important. If the soil is already very dry, for example, in a country house where you have not been for several days, then first loosen the soil very carefully, and then water it, but do not do the opposite. Frequent watering is especially important for varieties of remontant strawberries of neutral daylight hours; Why, I think that there is no need to explain. The same varieties require more frequent and thorough weeding, especially after rain and the removal of dying leaves that turn red.

Fertilizer for remontant strawberries

It is clear that remontant garden strawberries are very depleted and they definitely need the right top dressing. The most actively remontant garden strawberries consume elements such as nitrogen and potassium from the soil. But she needs phosphorus, but to a small extent. Taking this into account, phosphorus fertilization can be carried out only once, introducing doses of superphosphate (15-20 g per square meter) only when laying a plantation of remontant garden strawberries.

An approximate scheme for feeding remontant strawberries is as follows:

Usually, the first feeding of remontant strawberries is carried out in the third decade of May, during this period urea is used, the composition is very weak - one gram or two (if the soil is poor, per bucket of water), this is the norm per square meter of soil. Approximately in the second half of June, when flower stalks of already re-fruiting begin to actively form, mullein can be introduced (1: 10 - in the amount of 0.5 liters per square meter or bird droppings 1: 15 - in the amount of 0.3 liters per square meter). It is quite acceptable to use, along with organic fertilizers, newfangled mineral supplements, such as Mortar Kristallin or Kemira Lux.

In general, ideally, the whole season should be stretched so that there are about ten top dressings, alternating these fertilizers.

The second option for fertilizing remontant strawberries is when, at the very beginning of June, plants are fed not only with slurry diluted 10 times and bird droppings 15 times, but also with the addition of 1% urea (1 g per bucket of water) to this composition, all this composition should be spent on 2 - 3 square meters of the site.

Fertilizer remontant strawberries. © SunnysideLOCAL

Diseases of remontant strawberries

Gray rot

Gray rot often attacks garden strawberries. It manifests itself most actively in thickened plantations, where soil loosening is not carried out and frequent watering is carried out, especially by sprinkling and cold water. Gray rot can affect all above-ground organs of the plant, which will lead to losses of up to 85% of the total crop. In order to prevent the appearance of gray rot on remontant strawberries, it is necessary to plant on the site in accordance with the characteristics of the strength of growth and development of a particular variety, carry out soil mulching, as well as sufficient, but not excessive watering. At the first sign of infection, the affected parts of the plants should be removed.

As a preventive measure, plants can be treated at the very beginning of the growing season with 2.0% Bordeaux mixture, and after harvesting at the very end of the growing season, to consolidate the result, with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur.

There are also fungicides to fight the disease, but you can only use approved ones, in full accordance with the instructions on the package, for example, Strobi, Switch, Euparen, Triadimefon (Bayleton), Kaptan. Alirin-B is considered the safest biological product from the recommended list.

brown spot

It manifests itself when, as in the previous case, strawberry plantations are thickened, there is too much moisture, and day and night temperatures jump noticeably. As a preventive measure, in the spring, remove all dry leaves so that the infection does not “sit down” on them and carry out treatments with 2% Bordeaux liquid. Do not forget about mulching, which will not allow the fungus to get to the surface.

If the disease is very active, then use approved fungicides, strictly following the instructions on the package, for example, Skor, Strobi, Fundazol.

powdery mildew

The first sign of the onset of this disease is the purple color of the strawberry leaf blades, then they curl up and turn ash-gray, as if sprinkled with old flour. If you do not want this disease to visit you, then in early spring, treat the plants with a weak (slightly pink) solution of potassium permanganate or 1% colloidal sulfur.

There are also fungicides, but use only approved ones and exactly in accordance with the instructions on the package, for example, Topaz, Fundazol, Tilt, Strobi and Fitosporin-M.

Brown spotting on strawberry leaves. © Tip10
Powdery mildew on strawberry leaves. © gov.au

Remontant strawberry pests

The first pests of remontant strawberries personally in my area are slugs. I saved myself from them by planting garlic between the rows: honestly, I didn’t see a single slug again.

strawberry mite

It is considered a much more dangerous pest of strawberries: if it damages young leaves, then they are quite actively twisted and turn yellow. The plant itself is sharply inhibited in growth. The tick can infect from half to the entire plantation, and without treatments it can lead to its death.

It helps to overcome the tick with a 3% solution of colloidal sulfur, only it can be used very early in the spring and after harvesting the entire crop. Well, and of course - all sorts of permitted acaricides.

strawberry nematode

Usually, if a strawberry is infected with a nematode, then its leaves are deformed and twisted. A characteristic feature can be seen on the petioles: they become too fragile and sometimes break even from the wind. Fruiting on such plants is either weak or absent altogether. The nematode is considered a quarantine pest, if it is present on the site, the plants are subject to immediate removal and burning.

spider mite

Usually, strawberry leaves become as if sluggish, and if they are turned over, traces of the activity of the tick are visible - a cobweb. As a result, leaf blades turn yellow and dry out ahead of time. Gardeners write that Karbofos helps very well against spider mites. After harvesting the entire crop, they process the plants and cover them with a film for several days.

Signs of damage to strawberries by strawberry, or cyclamen mites. © K. Lynch Dead strawberry plants affected by the strawberry nematode. © Surendra Dara Strawberries affected by spider mites. © Surendra Dara

Pruning remontant strawberries

Caring for remontant strawberry bushes, among other things, also includes pruning. Usually pruning of bushes is enough to do once a season - either in spring or autumn.

If you live in a cold region where remontant strawberries require shelter, then pruning should be done in the fall. This is done as follows: after the final harvest of the entire crop, the lower leaf blades are removed from the bush, trying not to affect the upper leaf blades, because it is in their axils that fruit buds are laid, from which fruits will form next season.

In the event that berries do not form at all on the mustache and the gardener does not plan to propagate remontant garden strawberries in this way, then the removal of the mustache is mandatory.

Remember, however, this rule: after the first fruiting of remontant garden strawberries, the mustache is usually not removed, but the leaves that have begun to dry out, have formed spots or hide more developed and healthy leaves, must be removed. The removal of such leaves can be carried out in the fall, immediately after the entire harvest, when the foliage slowly begins to dry out.

If you are a resident of a cold region, then take your time and transfer this operation to the spring, remove such leaves after the snow cover has completely disappeared.

Important! Many neglect the pruning of dead leaves and mustaches of remontant garden strawberries, however, their removal is like a shield that protects plants from pathogens, because it is on diseased, old foliage that the infection hibernates.

Autumn care and preparation for wintering

Plants of remontant strawberries of a long sunny day often do not fully mature by the end of the season, especially if they are not grown in a greenhouse. Given this, not only part of the crop is lost, but plants that do not have time to adapt to cold and frost sometimes suffer. The best option to save such plants is to cover them with fresh straw 5-8 cm thick, and sketch spruce branches on top, which will keep the straw from flying all over the site.

Repair strawberry garden. © siliconinvestor

Outcome

As you can see, growing remontant garden strawberries does not present any particular difficulties, and even a beginner can handle this matter, not to mention a professional.

Do not forget, however, although we already wrote about this, that the life of the plantation should be no more than three years, after which the plantings need to be updated.

Strawberry is the most ancient berry; archaeologists find traces of it in sediments that are more than 60 million years old. But it became a garden culture only in the 15th century, before that people were content with a generous forest harvest. And modern breeders made the dream of our ancestors a reality - they brought out remontant varieties of strawberries, the fruiting of which lasts from early summer to late autumn, thanks to which they are distinguished by impressive yields. Remontant strawberries are incredibly popular among gardeners, but if you decide to breed this berry in your garden, you need to prepare for the need to scrupulously care for it, because the plant requires a lot of attention. Let's take a closer look at the rules for planting and caring for remontant strawberries.

Strawberries of remontant varieties differ from their forest relatives, first of all, by an increased fruiting period. That is, as soon as one cycle of fruiting is completed, it is immediately replaced by the next. Thanks to the efforts of breeders, wild strawberries have acquired many useful properties that make it easier to grow them, but at the same time they managed to keep the taste and aroma inherent in wild berries unchanged.

Among the advantages of remontant strawberries are:

1. High yields. Modern varieties begin to bear fruit 2 weeks earlier than the classic ones, and due to frost resistance, they yield until late autumn.
2. Cold resistance. Even in case of damage due to frost inflorescences, new ones will quickly grow in their place.
3. Large fruit size compared to wild berries.
4. Taste and color variety. There are varieties with yellow or white berries.
5. Disease resistance and insect pests.

But they have such varieties and their drawbacks, which are associated with the difficulties of caring for them:

1. The berry will give a large harvest only for the first few years, then it starts to run out. In order for the plant to constantly actively bear fruit, it need repotting every 2-3 years.
2. Remontant varieties are more demanding on moisture, nutrition and lighting.. In the absence of the necessary conditions, the fruits will shrink and yields will decrease.
3. Such a strawberry grown only by seedlings.

Thus, remontant varieties of strawberries bring a lot of trouble to gardeners, but they more than pay off with the merits of the plant. Growing a berry has specific features, so before you start growing it in your garden, you need to gain knowledge about planting and proper care for these varieties of strawberries.

Rules for landing on open ground

Sowing of remontant strawberries begins early - at the end of February, or in the first week of March. It is carried out as follows:

1. Pour into seedling container loose earth and pour water over it.
2. Spread the seeds evenly on the surface and press lightly with your fingers into the ground. It is not necessary to cover the earth.
3. Cover the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect and place on the windowsill.
4. Moisten the soil periodically from the spray bottle and raise the glass to ventilate.

Growing seedlings of remontant strawberries: temperature - 20-22 degrees, bright lighting - 12-15 hours a day, regularly ventilate containers

Strawberry seeds hatch long enough - 20 to 30 days. When the sprouts hatch and 3 leaves appear on them, the seedlings need to dive.

You can plant strawberries on open ground as soon as night frosts stop.

The plant is capricious in relation to the landing site. If cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage or potatoes were previously grown in this place, then the berry will not grow there. It is better to choose a site where beans, garlic, dill or parsley grew before. Also, a rich harvest of berries will contribute to the earth after bulbous flowers - tulips, hyacinths, crocuses.

The most optimal landing method is considered to be a two-line bush. It will relieve thickening and protect the plant from fungal infections.. With this method, a distance of 30 cm is left between two lines in the tape, and 70 cm between the tapes themselves. In the rows, the bushes are seated at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other.

The combined planting method is also popular with gardeners, when strawberries are alternated with other crops. Most often, garlic acts as its neighbor, which protects strawberries from the invasion of slugs.

The technology of direct planting bushes in the ground includes the following steps:

1. loosen the soil in the garden and form holes in it 25 cm wide, long and deep.
2. Thoroughly water the holes water.
3. Apply fertilizer to the soil. On a bucket of earth, take a bucket of compost mixed with biohumus in the amount of 2 liters. You can also add 2 cups of ash there.
4. plant seedlings. Spread the roots, they are buried vertically. In this case, the apical kidney is located strictly above the surface.
5. Water the planted bushes water.
6. Mulch the ground with a thin layer. To do this, use dried grass, needles, compost, but not straw, it is too hard for young plants.

Well, most of the work is done. Now it remains only with the help of proper care to create conditions for strawberries for active fruiting.

Features of growing and caring for remontant strawberries

Plant care includes the following components:

• watering and fertilizing;
• weeding from weeds;
• mulching;
• protection from diseases and insects;
• planting too dense plantings.

Watering is especially important at the stage of bush development, therefore, in the absence of rain, strawberries need regular watering throughout the summer.

During the flowering period, watering should be more abundant than during the fruiting period. If you pour the plant in the process of ripening berries, then they will be unsweetened.

Due to the long fruiting, the remontant strawberry needs to be fed more than other varieties. Before the appearance of green berries, bushes are fed with infused slurry (1: 8). Ash is also added there - 250 g per 10 liters. To feed a 5-meter row, 10 liters of fertilizer will be needed.

The next time the plants can be fed when they begin to bloom en masse. Treatment with boron, manganese and zinc (2 g of each substance per 10 liters of water) will improve the setting and contribute to an increase in fruit weight. Spraying is carried out only in the evening.

Mulching will greatly help simplify the care of strawberries. For adult plants, straw or rotted sawdust is used for this purpose.

Using mulch provides many benefits:

• retains moisture in the ground, which reduces the amount of watering;
• provides air access to the roots of the plant, so there is no need for constant loosening of the earth;
• restrains weed growth;
• protects berries from decay.

It is also important to protect strawberries from diseases. Most often, this plant is exposed to such diseases: powdery mildew, gray rot and late blight.

For plant prevention sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or infusion of garlic. It is also necessary to regularly clean the bushes from old foliage.

Of the pests on strawberries, slugs and grape snails are usually found.. From them, the plant should be sprinkled with a mixture of tobacco dust and ash (1: 1), or dry superphosphate should be spread around the beds.

Slugs damage remontant strawberries

All these activities provide the basic care that any plant needs. But remontant strawberries also have their own specific requirements.

Pruning bushes in the fall and preparing the plant for winter

In autumn, after the end of the fruiting period, strawberries are pruned. Foliage, tendrils and rosettes take away from the plant the strength that it needs to accumulate for the next flowering. Therefore, if you want to get a good harvest next year, this procedure is necessary.

You need to cut the leaves immediately after harvesting the last crop, so that by winter the bushes have time to grow fresh leaves, which will act as a natural heat insulator. If you missed the moment, and new leaves do not have time to grow before the onset of cold weather, it is better to leave the old foliage and cancel pruning.

Leaves and whiskers are trimmed at the very base so that harmful insects do not start in their remains. Send the cut parts of the plant to the compost pit, just carefully inspect them for pests or diseases, they may need to be burned.

After pruning, plantings should be treated with insecticides as preventive measures. And in order for new foliage to grow by winter, the plants must be watered regularly. You can also feed the roots with organic fertilizers.

In the central and northern regions, the beds are insulated for the winter with a layer of manure or fallen leaves, at least 5 cm thick. But the best protection from the cold for strawberries is snow. To make its layer thicker, lay between the beds of branches from trees. They hold snow well and form high snowdrifts.

These are the main points regarding the cultivation of remontant strawberries. After studying them, it remains only to choose specific varieties for yourself, of which, at the moment, there are a lot.

The best varieties of remontant strawberries

Arapaho

American variety. The first harvest is the end of June - mid-July, and the second flowering period begins in the second half of July. The second time it bears fruit until the end of September. High-yielding variety - up to 300 g of berries are harvested from one bush. The size of the fruit is medium (10 g), the shape is round, the color is bright red. The berries have a sweet and sour taste and tender juicy pulp, the smell is weak. This variety has a small amount of mustache and high resistance to cold.

Bordurella

Strawberries come from France. The first time it blooms at the end of May, the second - at the end of July. Fruits until the start of frost. Good yield (300 g per bush). Medium sized, shiny, bright red fruits. Mustache is formed a little.

Remontant Crimean

Variety bred in Simferopol. It has average yields, but a very large berry size. In the first harvest, it reaches 40 g. The fruits are round, dark saturated shade, with juicy and sweet pulp. The variety is resistant to gray mold disease.

Temptation

This variety has a large fruit size. Their average weight is 15-20 g, but it reaches up to 35 g. Fruiting lasts from the end of May until the first frost. The berries are incredibly sweet, with a dense texture and a bright aroma. It has a high decorative effect due to elongated peduncles, suitable for growing in pots on windowsills or insulated balconies.

rapella

The most popular variety in Europe. Bred by Dutch breeders. In the first harvest, the berries reach a mass of 20 g. Pulp of dessert taste, dark red. The main advantage of the variety is resistance to late blight.

Diva F1

It has powerful bushes with highly located flower stalks, which simplifies harvesting. The berries are very beautiful - large, regular shape, noble scarlet hue. They have an excellent sugary taste and high transportability. The variety is winter-hardy.

Superfection

Another variety of American origin. Its main advantage is resistance to powdery mildew and spotting. It has a fairly large size of berries - up to 25g. The fruits are conical in shape, have a sweet and sour taste. Frost resistance is high.

Evie 2

One of the favorite varieties of gardeners. Incredibly high-yielding - from 10 sq.m. collect up to 55 kg of berries. The fruits are large, spherical, of all remontant varieties are considered the most delicious and juicy.

Whichever of the existing remontant varieties you choose, with the right agricultural technology, the plant will provide you with delicious berries throughout almost the entire summer and autumn. Besides, these varieties are very similar in taste to wild berries, therefore, with a little effort, you will arrange a real forest clearing on your site.