Crop rotation of vegetable crops: what, then plant in the garden? Proper crop rotation in the summer cottage.

Fig, fig, fig tree - these are all names of the same plant, which we strongly associate with Mediterranean life. Anyone who has ever tasted fig fruits knows how delicious it is. But, in addition to a delicate sweet taste, they are also very healthy. And here is an interesting detail: it turns out that figs are completely unpretentious plant. In addition, it can be successfully grown on a plot in middle lane or at home - in a container.

Quite often, difficulties in growing tomato seedlings arise even in experienced summer residents. For some, all seedlings turn out to be elongated and weak, for others, they suddenly begin to fall and die. The thing is that it is difficult to maintain in an apartment ideal conditions for growing seedlings. Seedlings of any plants need to provide a lot of light, sufficient moisture and optimum temperature. What else do you need to know and observe when growing tomato seedlings in an apartment?

Delicious vinaigrette with apple and sauerkraut- vegetarian salad of boiled and chilled, raw, pickled, salted, pickled vegetables and fruits. The name comes from a French sauce made from vinegar, olive oil and mustard (vinaigrette). Vinaigrette appeared in Russian cuisine not so long ago, around the beginning of the 19th century, perhaps the recipe was borrowed from Austrian or German cuisine, since the ingredients for the Austrian herring salad are very similar.

When we dreamily touch bright seed bags in our hands, we are sometimes subconsciously sure that we have a prototype of the future plant. We mentally allocate a place for him in the flower garden and look forward to the cherished day of the appearance of the first bud. However, buying seeds does not always guarantee that you will eventually get the desired flower. I would like to draw attention to the reasons why the seeds may not sprout or die at the very beginning of germination.

Spring is coming, and gardeners have more work to do, and with the onset of heat, changes in the garden are happening rapidly. Buds are already beginning to swell on plants that were still sleeping yesterday, everything literally comes to life before our eyes. After a long winter, this can not but rejoice. But along with the garden, its problems come to life - pests and pathogens. Weevils, flower beetles, aphids, clasterosporiasis, maniliasis, scab, powdery mildew- the list can be very long.

Breakfast toast with avocado and egg salad is a great start to the day. The egg salad in this recipe acts as a thick sauce that is seasoned with fresh vegetables and shrimp. My egg salad quite unusual, this is a dietary version of everyone's favorite snack - with Feta cheese, Greek yogurt and red caviar. If you have time in the morning, never deny yourself the pleasure of cooking something tasty and healthy. The day should start with positive emotions!

Perhaps every woman at least once received a gift blooming orchid. It is not surprising, because such a lively bouquet looks amazing and blooms for a long time. Orchids are not very difficult to grow. indoor crops, but not fulfilling the main conditions for their maintenance often leads to the loss of a flower. If you are just getting started with indoor orchids, you should find out the correct answers to the main questions on growing these beautiful plants in the house.

Lush cheesecakes with poppy seeds and raisins, prepared according to this recipe, are eaten in my family in the blink of an eye. Moderately sweet, plump, tender, with an appetizing crust, without excess oil, in a word, just like mother or grandmother fried in childhood. If the raisins are very sweet, then granulated sugar can not be added at all, without sugar, cheesecakes will be better fried and will never burn. Cook them in a well-heated frying pan, greased with oil, over low heat and without a lid!

Cherry tomatoes differ from their large counterparts not only in the small size of the berries. Many varieties of cherry are characterized by a unique sweet taste, which is very different from the classic tomato. Anyone who has never tasted such cherry tomatoes with their eyes closed may well decide that they are tasting some unusual exotic fruits. In this article, I will talk about five different cherry tomatoes that have the sweetest fruits of unusual colors.

I started growing annual flowers in the garden and on the balcony more than 20 years ago, but I will never forget my first petunia, which I planted in the country along the path. Only a couple of decades have passed, but one wonders how different petunias of the past are from today's many-sided hybrids! In this article, I propose to trace the history of the transformation of this flower from a simpleton into a real queen of annuals, as well as consider modern varieties of unusual colors.

Salad with spicy chicken, mushrooms, cheese and grapes - fragrant and satisfying. This dish can be served as a main dish if you are preparing a cold dinner. Cheese, nuts, mayonnaise are high-calorie foods, combined with spicy fried chicken and mushrooms, you get a very nutritious snack that is refreshed by sweet and sour grapes. The chicken fillet in this recipe is marinated in a spicy mixture of ground cinnamon, turmeric and chili powder. If you like food with a spark, use hot chili.

The question is how to grow healthy seedlings, all summer residents are concerned in early spring. It seems that there are no secrets here - the main thing for fast and strong seedlings is to provide them with warmth, moisture and light. But in practice, in a city apartment or a private house, this is not so easy to do. Of course, every experienced gardener has his own proven way of growing seedlings. But today we will talk about a relatively new assistant in this matter - the propagator.

The variety of tomato "Sanka" is one of the most popular in Russia. Why? The answer is simple. He is the very first to bear fruit in the garden. Tomatoes ripen when other varieties have not even faded yet. Of course, if you follow the recommendations for growing and make an effort, even a novice grower will get a rich harvest and joy from the process. And so that efforts are not in vain, we advise you to plant high-quality seeds. For example, such as seeds from TM "Agrosuccess".

The task of indoor plants in the house is to decorate the house with its appearance, to create a special atmosphere of comfort. For this we are ready to take care of them regularly. Care is not only watering on time, although this is also important. It is necessary to create other conditions: suitable lighting, humidity and air temperature, make the correct and timely transplant. For experienced flower growers there is nothing supernatural in this. But beginners often face certain difficulties.

Delicate chicken breast cutlets with champignons are easy to prepare according to this recipe with step by step photos. There is an opinion that it is difficult to cook juicy and tender cutlets from chicken breast, this is not so! Chicken meat contains practically no fat, which is why it is dry. But, if you add cream to the chicken fillet, White bread and mushrooms with onions, you get awesome tasty cutlets that both children and adults will like. In the mushroom season, try adding forest mushrooms to the minced meat.

“The smart one cultivates the crop, and the wise one cultivates the land ...” (an old proverb)

Is crop rotation possible in the country? Of course, it is possible, although it is rather difficult to provide it on a small area of ​​our land plots. After all, traditional summer cottages are, as a rule, 6 acres of land, of which one acre is allocated for a house and household buildings, 2-3 acres - for trees, ridges with strawberries and berry bushes. And now, on the remaining 2-3 acres, we begin to make smart look and change the location of our vegetable plantings, not quite understanding what a crop rotation is.

In addition, most often the garden, vegetable garden, flower beds and lawns in the country are mixed in the most unimaginable way. Sometimes the owners themselves strive for such a “lyrical disorder”, wanting to give their plots originality and special charm.

The charm of the garden, of course, pleases the soul, but those of the summer residents who waved their hand at " scientific approach» in the placement of plantings, sooner or later face the problem of soil depletion and, consequently, a decrease in yield. The second misfortune that lies in wait for such gardeners is the increasing weediness of the soil from year to year. unwanted plants(weeds).

These two reasons force us to look for compromise solutions and move from time to time vegetable plants and flowers.

What does "crop rotation" mean? Crop rotation is a science-based rotation of crops based on knowledge of the individual characteristics of the cultivated plants and their relationships with each other.

Where to start compiling a crop rotation?

You need to start by drawing up a site plan, indicating, first of all, its location relative to the cardinal points and drawing large objects. It doesn’t matter if your site is developed or its development has just begun.

It is useful to put on the plan not only fruit trees, shrubs, the location of ridges with vegetables and flower plants, but also the lighting scheme by time of day, depending on the presence of buildings and tall trees.

One of important features crops is that different types of plants consume different amounts of nutrients and, accordingly, deplete the soil in different ways.

For example, potatoes and beets from the 3 most important plant nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) extract almost the same maximum amount of potassium, but differ sharply in phosphorus consumption. Beets take out 2 times more phosphorus from the soil than potatoes. Nitrogen both crops consume the same, but less than most other vegetables.

Vegetable crops are divided according to the degree of consumption of soil nutrients into 3 groups:

1. Plants with a high need for nutrients ah: potatoes, cabbage, pumpkin, spinach, rhubarb, celery, asparagus, zucchini.

2. Medium nutrient plants: eggplant, cucumber, kohlrabi, horseradish, melon, leek, radish, beetroot, spinach, curly beans, tomato.

3. Plants with a weak need for nutrients: bush beans, peas, lettuce, radishes, onions, herbs.

Consequently, the owner of the site, seeking to introduce a crop rotation, must divide the plot plan drawn up into several parts, more often into 3 or 4.
This is exactly what our family did before the first plantings on the “virgin land” freed from aspens in the gardening “Mshinskaya”. We made a site plan, hung it on the wall, and over the next seasons tried to return, say, beets or carrots to the same ridge only after 3 years. The most difficult thing at the beginning is to allocate a piece of land with “rich” soil on the virgin lands.

Crop rotation rules

According to the rules of crop rotation, it is recommended to start planting "gluttonous" crops on the most fertile site - cucumbers, zucchini or cabbage. Naturally, before planting, the usual soil preparation procedure is done - required amount fertilizers, trace elements and ash to improve the acidity index. After the end of the season and harvest, it is useful to sow green manure plants in this area, which better than manure increase soil fertility after autumn or spring plowing of their green mass.

The second part of the plot, with less fertile soil, is suitable for onions, radishes, greens or planting tomatoes (eggplants, peppers), if a greenhouse is not intended for such plants.

Then ridges are allocated for carrots, parsley, beets, turnips, which can give a good harvest even in lean soil. However, for clay soils, intended for the cultivation of root crops, before digging and sowing, they do not a large number of sand.

The fourth piece of the garden is allotted for potatoes, where ash and compost or rotted manure are applied locally to each well.

The next year, what grew in the first plot is planted in the fourth. We plant plants from the second plot on the first plot. And so on, in a circle.

Second individual feature plants, including vegetables, is the depth of penetration of the root system into the soil. At different cultures she is very different. For example, in corn and alfalfa, roots can penetrate to a depth of 2 m, in tomatoes - a little less than a meter, and in onions, cucumbers, cabbage root system develops in the topsoil.

This feature must also be taken into account with proper crop rotation and crop rotation, so that nutrients from different soil layers are used more evenly.

In addition, we must not forget that there are crops that enrich the soil with nitrogen. Legumes and some wild plants. If we take peas as a unit of comparison, then clover increases the nitrogen content by 2.5 times, lupine - a little more (2.7 times), and alfalfa - by 5 times!
And, finally, distributing the main vegetable crops on the site, you need to allocate a small area for perennial crops - sorrel, rhubarb, tarragon, lovage, asparagus, perennial onions. These crops are shade-tolerant, so they can be sown near buildings or a fence.

For perennial plants, there are periods of maximum productivity, after which the yield drops significantly, which means that it also becomes necessary to transplant the plant to another place and return it to its former place no earlier than after three to four years, during which the earth will “rest”.

Two additional recommendations:

1. Garlic, carrots, onions are vegetable crops that do not tolerate the neighborhood of weeds. They need to be planted in a place clean from weeds. Good predecessors for such crops will be potatoes, cabbage, zucchini, pumpkins, melons, tomatoes.

2. It is not recommended to grow nearby crops that are characterized by common diseases and pests. For example, potatoes and tomatoes planted side by side are affected by late blight. And as predecessors for each other, these vegetables are also very undesirable.

The influence of plants on each other

With crop rotation, everything is clear enough - it is necessary that plants do not extract the same nutrients from the soil from the same soil horizon and do not infect each other “by inheritance” with the same diseases. But with the "friendship and enmity" of plants, the situation is more complicated, and modern science does not yet have complete clarity. It is known that plants not only absorb, but also release vital waste and protective substances into the soil.
These secretions in some cases are useful, and in others they can be very unpleasant for another plant. Unlike people who, with mutual antipathy, can stop communicating and not meet, plants are doomed to “tolerate” a neighbor for the whole season or even all their lives.

An example of the first kind of beneficial coexistence is the carrot and onion. Both plants can be attacked by onion and carrot flies, respectively. But fortunately, the carrot fly does not tolerate onions, and the onion fly does not tolerate the smell of carrots, and they do not fly at the same time. Therefore, by planting onions and carrots on the same bed, you can successfully grow a good harvest of both.

And here typical example the opposite situation - tomatoes and cucumbers. Planting them in the same greenhouse and generally nearby is not recommended, it will not good harvest neither one nor the other. Cucumbers need a warm, humid climate, while tomatoes need dry air and good ventilation. In addition, tomatoes release a large amount of ethylene into the air, which inhibits cucumbers.

At the same time, it was noticed that when planting cucumbers next to corn, they have a beneficial effect on it.
Thinking now before the start of the planting season, take a look at the table below:

Crop rotation for suburban area, table:

vegetable culture	Friends with...	Fighting with...
Eggplant	peas, beans, potatoes
Peas	eggplant, radish, potatoes, corn, carrots, cucumbers, turnips, beans	onions, tomatoes, fennel, garlic
Cabbage	potatoes, onions, lettuce, beets, celery, dill	strawberries, beans, tomatoes, fennel
Potato	peas, eggplant, cabbage, corn, onion, nasturtium, parsley, radish, lettuce, beets, dill, beans, horseradish, garlic	cucumbers, tomatoes, celery, fennel
Carrot	peas, onions, tomatoes	fennel
cucumbers	peas, cabbage, lettuce, dill, beans	potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, fennel
Tomatoes	green crops, cabbage, lettuce, gooseberries, onions, asparagus, beans	potatoes, kohlrabi, cucumbers, peppers, fennel

At present, it is very popular to arrange ornamental gardens, where often the beds are in the form of sectors of a circle, where vegetable crops alternate with planting flowers and herbs. In such gardens, it is very convenient to carry out a kind of crop rotation every spring by simply shifting one segment clockwise or counterclockwise.

Mixed landings protect the earth from such a phenomenon as "earth fatigue". In such plantings, plants are less affected by pests, due to the fact that they simply cannot find them by smell.

Properly selected vegetables mixed landings, have a beneficial effect on each other and due to this they grow and develop better. In addition, they decorate the beds very much, turning them into multi-colored flower beds.

Personally, I am for such a crop rotation, in which the combination of vegetables with flowers and herbs leads to the harmony of beauty and usefulness.

Text: Margarita Turkina

Crop rotation is the alternation of crops horticultural crops and fallows (unsown land) on the site. Crop rotation is carried out not only in the territory (alternating beds), but also in time (alternating vegetables, herbs or berries on the same bed).

Example: last year we grow pumpkins in the garden, this year we grow tomatoes in the same garden. After harvesting the tomatoes, in their place - lettuce, parsley, dill.

Why crop rotation is needed

• reduce the spam of the site with weeds, diseases and pests
• improve the structure of the topsoil
• balance the soil for nutrients (enrich some elements and reduce the consumption of others)

What you need to know to observe crop rotation

First you need to find out how many years you can grow the same crop in one place. The reason is that during the life cycle of a plant, it releases some phytotoxic substances (colins) that accumulate in the soil - this is the so-called allelopathic activity. Initially, nature intended that allelopathy would be directed exclusively at competing plants. But oddly enough, with long-term cultivation of a crop in the same place, poisoning with its own colines gradually occurs.

For example, phytotoxins released by sugar beet during its continuous cultivation for several years lead to its toxicity to the beet itself and other crops. Drying the soil layer after digging in the sun can partially help, and part of the phytotoxic substances is extracted from the soil with water.

Cabbage, carrots, radishes, peas are slightly less sensitive to their own colins. The most resistant are corn and leeks. In addition to root secretions, the source of colins is the entire above-ground part plants. That is why never leave the tops of vegetables to dry and rot in the beds. Everything that is not related to the crop must be removed from the site.

1. The basic rule of crop rotation: the alternation of garden crops belonging to different families:

Asteraceae	leaf and head lettuce, Jerusalem artichoke, chicory
amaranth	beets, chard, spinach
	peas, beans, beans, soybeans
Buckwheat	rhubarb, sorrel
	corn
Umbelliferae	carrot, dill, coriander, parsnip, parsley, celery, cumin, fennel, anise
cruciferous	all types of cabbage, watercress, radish, radish, turnip, horseradish, swede, mustard
	all types of onions (bulb, leek, shallot, leek, wild garlic) and garlic
Nightshade	tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, potatoes
Pumpkin	cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, melon, zucchini, squash
Lamiaceae	basil, marjoram, mint, savory, rosemary, sage, lemon balm, thyme, oregano

Berry crops that most often need crop rotation are strawberries and grapes.

2. Garden crops with a long ripening period after harvest should leave the garden for three years. Cultures that are especially sensitive to their own root secretions: beets, chard, spinach, cucumbers, carrots, peas, parsley, it is advisable not to return to their previous beds for 4-5 years.

3. It is possible to reduce the crop rotation time if, immediately after harvesting, the site is sown with green manure (clover, alfalfa, oats).

A simple crop rotation rule

If you find it difficult to remember and calculate which crops to plant in what sequence, remember the simple rule of crop rotation or the principle of crop rotation:

ROOT -> FRUIT -> LEAF -> FLOWER or FLOWER -> LEAF -> FRUIT -> ROOT

This means that if last year you grew carrots on one bed, then next year you can grow tomatoes on it. The next year - onions and garlic, and after them - flowers (lupins, decorative clover). Thus, a four-year cycle is observed, which is then repeated, not necessarily with the same cultures, but according to the same principle.

• Root: potatoes, root parsley, radishes, radishes, turnips, onions, carrots, parsnips, beets, root celery, horseradish, garlic, Jerusalem artichoke.
• Fruit (tops): watermelon, melon, pumpkin, zucchini, eggplant, beans, peas, corn, cucumbers, squash, peppers, tomatoes, beans.
• Leaf: chard, parsley leaf, celery leaf, lettuce, dill, fennel, spinach, sorrel, tarragon, cumin, mint.

Sometimes gardeners do not have enough space for flowers, or simply do not want to deal with them. In this case, the year of the flower can be omitted. Here are examples of crop rotation in beds with a five-year cycle:

Vegetables and herbs

It is not always possible to observe the correct crop rotation cycles, often due to the territorial limitations of the summer cottage - everything is sown and cultivated, there are no free fallows (empty beds), and the equation with good predecessors does not add up.

But a certain minimum for preserving the quality of the crop can be observed. Take, for example, the influence of crops on the structure and quality of the soil.

Plants that improve soil, loosening and / or enriching with organic substances, especially nitrogen:

• clover mix
• alfalfa
• bush beans
• polka dots
• mustard
• buckwheat

Plants that make the soil worse, denser, reducing its porosity and oxygen saturation, and / or deplete, consuming nutrients to the maximum:

• tomatoes
• parsley root
• beet
• potato
• cabbage
• pumpkin
• vegetable marrow
• rhubarb
• chicory

Plants that do not improve soil quality but do not deplete her in one season:

• onions (all kinds)
• radish
• pepper
• cucumbers
• kohlrabi
• carrot
• beans
• head salad
• celery root

If your ability to rotate crops is at a minimum, try to maintain a shortened three-year cycle:

• plant demanding crops in the first year
• in the second year - legumes to replenish nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus and improve the structure
• in the third year - less demanding crops

Demanding cultures in soil nutrition

The most important basis of agricultural technology for a summer resident is knowledge of needs various vegetables in nutrients. It depends on how quickly the plant will deplete essential elements nutrition, whether it can provide a full-fledged harvest, and what will be left behind in the ground for subsequent crops.

Three categories of vegetables and herbs

1. Very demanding crops: all types of cabbage, celery, corn, spinach, lettuce.
2. Demanding: cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, onions (all kinds).
3. Less demanding: carrots, parsnips, root parsley, turnip, radish, radish, beetroot.

In many regions of Russia, there is still snow in the dachas, frosts continue. But spring is just around the corner, and although summer residents have no practical cases yet, it's time to take up theory - so let's talk about the neighborhood of vegetables and other plants on the site.

So I myself noticed that from phytophthora and scoops, tomatoes planted for many years in a row in one place in the garden, in the country suffer MUCH (!) More often, and the disease is much more difficult, and treatment and spraying are not so effective. Potato growers also know that potatoes in one place are more affected by moths, tubers become smaller, any planting for many years in one place degenerates 2-3 times more intensively and no longer gives more of the yields that the gardener is counting on.

When planting vegetables on small area it is necessary to consider how one plant affects another. This is the only way to ensure a good harvest.

Each plant in the dacha needs a different amount of space, light, nutrients and moisture. To achieve harmonious coexistence of plants in a small area, consider several factors.

Neighborhood of vegetables

Do not plant nearby plants, the underground part of which is in the same layer. To protect themselves from certain pests or pathogens, the roots of vegetables and herbs release complex compounds into the soil. They can be beneficial to some plants and toxic to others. For example, mustard root secretions are good for peas, garlic, and carrots, and bad for cabbages.

For the same reason, it is not recommended to grow the same plant in one place in the garden for more than a year. For example, beets can grow in one place for up to three years only with mixed plantings, since plants of other species absorb and process its root secretions, preventing them from accumulating in the soil. Pumpkin, some cabbage, parsley, celery, and carrots are not so picky in this regard. Corn, beans and leeks grow well without transplanting.

Pests

An equally important reason why it is necessary to rotate vegetables at one planting site is that diseases and sometimes pests of this vegetable accumulate in this place over several years.

Cucumbers, cabbage, celery, tomatoes, beans, lettuce are especially affected by this.

Changing plantings helps to fight without the use of chemicals with the most common pests, such as cabbage, carrot and onion flies. After plants that infect certain diseases and pests, cultures resistant to them are stirred. It is especially important to observe this rule for the cabbage and nightshade families.

Feeding with minerals and fertilizer

To get a good harvest, it is worth knowing how much nutrients certain vegetables need. It depends on how much fertilizing will be applied after harvesting the crops.

All types of cabbage and celery are the most demanding for nutrition.

Pumpkin, nightshade, as well as all types of onions, lettuce, spinach and corn occupy an intermediate place.

Carrots, parsnips, root parsley, radishes, radishes, beets require minimal conditions.

Vegetables from the same family need similar nutrients. If they are planted one after another in one place, this leads to one-sided depletion of the soil. In the first year, it is recommended to plant demanding crops, in the second - legumes, in the third - less demanding plants. Then the alternation is repeated.

In addition, in a small area, the depth of the roots of plants, their height and ripening time are taken into account. The latter is especially important when it comes to mixed landings.

Useful plants

For a better condition of plantings for vegetables, it is recommended to sow ornamental plants, releasing phytoncidal or insecticidal substances: calendula, nasturtium, matthiol. Honey plants can be excellent neighbors of vegetables: basil, marjoram, savory, catnip, lemon balm. planted and flowering plants celery family - cumin, anise, dill, as well as sunflower, chamomile, daisies, lavender, oregano.

There are plants that improve soil fertility. For example, some legumes, clover, alfalfa enrich the earth thanks to nodule bacteria on the roots that absorb nitrogen from the air, so after alfalfa, potatoes grow just fine and without nitroammophos.

And due to the deep root system, they enable the upper layer of the soil to receive potassium, phosphorus and calcium. Caraway seeds, buckwheat, flax, rapeseed also improve soil properties.

The general condition of the plants depends on the assortment of the garden - the more diverse it is, the better the plantings grow and give a greater harvest. Nearby or one after another, crops belonging to different species and different families should be planted. The most popular vegetables and root crops belong to two families - cabbage and celery.

What are the families of vegetables

• Celery: parsley, celery, carrots, parsnips, cumin, dill and fennel.
• Cabbage: colored, white and red, Brussels, Savoy, Chinese cabbage, broccoli, kohlrabi, as well as swede, radish, radish, turnip, mustard, horseradish, watercress, turnip.
• Aster family: chicory and all types of lettuce.
• Bluegrass: corn.
• Gauze: beets, spinach.
• Onions: all types of onions and garlic.
• Nightshade: tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants.
• Legumes: peas, beans and beans, also soy.
• Buckwheat: rhubarb, sorrel.
• Pumpkin: cucumbers, pumpkin, melon, squash and zucchini, zucchini.

Optimum rotation for good yields

After tomatoes and potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, beans, and beets grow well. In place of cucumbers, zucchini, radishes, cabbage, beets, and beans are grown. Carrots, dill, parsley, celery should be replaced by onions, potatoes, tomatoes. After beans, peas, garlic and onions, all crops can be planted.

The most optimal placement of vegetables in three plots by year looks like this: plot A - celery, spinach, potatoes, leeks, corn, plot B - legumes, fennel, onions, plot C - cabbage, perennials.

Figure 1: Alternation of plants by year (given for four years - from top to bottom: first year at the top, etc.)

Some plants oppress each other either unilaterally or mutually, because of this, their productivity and resistance to diseases and pests are reduced. For example, not a single vegetable crop can tolerate the neighborhood of hyssop, wormwood - especially peas and beans, and fennel - especially tomatoes, spinach, bush beans. Of the herbs, you should also not plant sage near onions, marigolds - near beans, tansy - near leafy cabbage, and quinoa - near potatoes.

Table 1 - Wrong neighborhood

Vegetable	Favorable Neighborhood	Unfavorable Neighborhood
Cabbage	Celery, lettuce, dill	Tomato, bean, onion
Potatoes	cabbage, onion	Cucumber, pumpkin, celery
A tomato	Pepper, celery, onion, parsley	Eggplant, kohlrabi, potatoes
cucumbers	Radish, lettuce, peas, cabbage	Spicy herbs and potatoes
Carrot	Onions, tomatoes, peas and lettuce	Beets and dill
Beet	Beans, lettuce, onion	Dill, mustard, carrot

This method is simple and lies in the fact that crops are combined in one garden not by year, but in one year. Excellent result show planting tomatoes and peppers with early varieties onion, parsley and celery (A). Zucchini and squash willingly make room for radishes (B), and cucumbers for dill and lettuce (C).

Since the ripening periods of garden crops are different, they should be taken into account. For example, radishes have time to grow before zucchini and squash begin to displace it. Cabbage and celery planted together become stronger, plus celery repels cabbage bugs. It is impossible to grow crops of the same species side by side, but with different terms maturation, such as early and late cabbage. If plants on the same bed require a different amount of top dressing, then at the borders, across the ridges, internal bumpers should be made.

Note: Green Conveyor
At the end of July, sow radishes, carrots for bunch products, spinach and summer varieties of lettuce in the place vacated after harvesting early peas.

Peas enrich the soil with nitrogen, so after it all plants develop perfectly.

Beijing cabbage can generally be sown very late - it is early ripening, it is not afraid of bad weather and light frosts.

Councils of gardeners, summer residents, gardeners

My system of crop rotation and the neighborhood of plants in the garden

IN old Russia agricultural technology was high level, there were teaching schools, literature. Combining the old and the new, I developed my agricultural technology, thanks to which I have high, stable yields every year.

Basics of my science:

• planning;
• crop rotation;
• planting dates and neighborhood in the beds.

Planning

I have only 4 acres. Under trees and vegetables. In winter I compose detailed plan plantings, counting how much and where to plant. And in the spring, just know to work!

Crop rotation

My beds are permanent, 90 cm wide. Row spacing is 40 cm. Slightly, about 5 cm deepened. I do not dig the aisle. I only fertilize the beds. I water from a hose, and while the water is flowing, I do other things: I loosen or mulch. After all, working on the ground is hard work. I have been retired for four years now. And over the years, digging into the ground becomes harder and harder.

My beds are numbered. And knowing their size, I calculate how many plants need to be planted, which ones, I figure out how much I will harvest approximately. I don't have anywhere else to store it.

I try to land at the end of April, placing arches and using covering material or film. I keep crop rotation.

I change every 3 years, and there is a separate school for mustaches.

After harvesting, as soon as the bed is free, I sow green manure: mustard, alfalfa, rye, oats, legumes (mostly peas). To disinfect the soil, I bury calendula and marigolds.

No. p / p	1st year	It is not recommended to plant in the same place during:
1	Tomatoes, potatoes	3-4 years
2	Cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin	2 years
3	Cabbage, radish, radish, turnip	4 years
4	Beets, carrots, spinach	1 year
5	Onion garlic	2 years
6	Salad	2-3 years
7	Peas, beans	Can be annually

Neighborhood of plants

Like humans, plants have friends and enemies. I watched them for a long time and made a table (see Table 2).

	A tomato	cucumbers	Cabbage	Pepper	Potato	Radish	Carrot	Beet
eggplant					+
A tomato	+		+			+	+	+
Cucumber		+	+			+		+
Cabbage		+	+		+			+
Pepper	+	+	+				+
Potato		+			+	+	+	+
Beet	+	+	+					+
Carrot	+	+				+	+
Salads
Garlic	+	+					+	+
beans

I love all flowers very much. I have them everywhere: by a small pond, along the paths, under the trees. And about 20 types of medicinal herbs. I even found and planted burdock! I would like to have everything on the site. Although dense plantings are harder to handle, the labor expended is more than paid off. My plants are fine. They seem to be happy and feel great in my area. Me too. Thank you mother earth.

P.S. When drawing up a garden plan, you need to pay attention to what year after manure is applied, which crops can be grown. Because, for example, root crops after fresh manure will be crooked, tasteless, ugly.

Alternation and proximity of plants - the opinions of professionals and gardeners

Rotation of crops

The annual change of planting site is called fruit change, crop rotation. Systematic rotation of crops prevents the occurrence of soil fatigue, the one-sided use of nutrients, the transmission of diseases and the spread of pests hibernating in the soil. Therefore, you should draw up a plan for vegetable planting in advance, before you have to start spring work.

In a word, it is impossible to grow one after another varieties of vegetables of the same family in the same garden. So it will be possible to avoid the defeat of diseases that may lurk in the soil.

Also, vegetables that actively consume nutrients should not be grown in a row from year to year in the same garden. Otherwise, the soil will be depleted and there will be a lack of nutrients. According to their nutritional requirements, vegetable varieties are divided into three groups.

Strong consumers are varieties of vegetables with high nutrient requirements: chicory, potatoes, almost all types and varieties of cabbage, pumpkins, New Zealand spinach, rhubarb, celery, asparagus, zucchini, sunflower, etc.

Average consumers are varieties of vegetables with moderate nutrient requirements: eggplant, endive, cucumber, kohlrabi, chard, horseradish, chives, paprika, radish, red beetroot, goat, spinach, string beans and tomatoes .

Weak consumers are the least demanding. These include bush beans, peas, fennel, head lettuce, radishes, onions, most greens, and flowers. This division only gives general idea on the nutritional needs of vegetables. Thus, lettuce is sometimes classified as an average consumer, while cucumbers are classified as strong.

The ideal rotation of crops is that, after strong consumers, medium consumers are planted in the second year, weak consumers in the third, and strong consumers again in the fourth year after strong fertilization of the soil.

Of course, in practice it is not always possible to strictly observe this sequence. If successive plantings of strong consumers cannot be avoided, the increased nutrient intake can be compensated by applying a double dose of compost and growing green manure. But the principle of crop rotation implies that plants feed on what their predecessors leave them.

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Every summer resident knows well that if the same crops are planted in the same place for several years in a row, then even under seemingly identical care conditions, they become more and more frail every year and bear fruit worse and worse. This phenomenon is caused by soil depletion, which in turn is explained by a number of factors.

The importance of proper crop planning

The first is that pathogens and all kinds of pests accumulate in the soil. For example, potatoes are known to be a favorite delicacy. Colorado beetles. If the plantation of this crop does not change its location for several years, the pest does not need to migrate in search of food - after wintering, it immediately finds itself in favorable conditions for itself and immediately begins to destroy the plant. except colorado potato beetle, planting potatoes contribute to the accumulation in the soil of late blight pathogens, as well as the larvae of click beetles and moths.

With other cultures, the situation develops in the same way. On a plot planted with the same crop, the number of those pests will increase from year to year, which are dangerous specifically for her and, accordingly, it will be more and more difficult for the plant to withstand such an invasion. Cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, beans, lettuce are especially affected by this factor.
The second is to increase concentration. harmful substances secreted by the roots of a particular culture (the so-called colins) and are toxic to this culture itself. Some plants are very sensitive to the effects of such poisons (for example, beets and spinach), others are more resistant (carrots, pumpkin, radishes, parsley), others almost do not react to colins (beans, leeks, corn). Besides, different plants emit different amounts of such harmful substances, for example, there are especially many of them in the soil after cucumbers, carrots and cabbage.

The third is the depletion of the supply of nutrients in the soil. Each culture has its own set of nutrients necessary for normal development. It is clear that such a plant will try to extract them from the soil. For example, if cabbage is in great need of potassium, then after planting this element in the soil, it will remain less and less, while, say, after radish, potassium reserves are not depleted so rapidly.

It is easy to understand that the situation can be corrected by correctly alternating the crops planted on the site from year to year. This procedure is called crop rotation and is a whole science. However, if there is no time to engage in complex theoretical preparation, it is enough to learn a few fundamental rules, and the harvest on your site will always be equally plentiful.

Rule #1

One after another, not only the same crop, but also close relatives (representatives of the same species) cannot be planted for several years in a row, since they, as a rule, have common pests, react in the same way to toxins and consume the same composition of microelements.

Rule #2

The average time during which the earth must rest after certain culture, is two years(one year is usually not enough for a full recovery), but for some plants this period is much longer. So, carrots, cucumbers, parsley, beets should not return to their original place for at least 4 years, and in relation to cabbage it is better to withstand all 7 years! These periods can be increased, but it is undesirable to reduce.

Rule #3

Plants tend not only to consume trace elements from the soil, but also to enrich it with one or another beneficial substances and properties. Therefore, the correct alternation of crops can not only preserve the elements especially necessary for the plant, but also improve the composition and structure of the soil without additional procedures. For example, legumes loosen the soil and enrich it with many minerals. Melon and buckwheat saturate the soil with calcium, dope grass with phosphorus, tobacco with potassium, stinging nettle- iron. Knowing these simple rules and taking into account the need of various types of crops for various microelements, it is easy to plan crops for several years in advance. By the way, these properties of the listed crops can be used more fully by laying them in compost after harvesting.

The same rule applies to pests. There are cultures that are not only resistant to certain diseases, but also repel their pathogens. For example, aphids do not tolerate plants such as garlic or tobacco. Thyme is afraid of the Colorado potato beetle. If planting such orderlies after plants exposed to these pests, there is a good opportunity to expel them from the site, freeing it for planting in subsequent years.

Rule #4

The need of plants for nutrients is not the same. It is impossible to plant crops that are too demanding on the composition of the soil one after another. It is more correct to plant legumes on the garden after such a crop or apply the necessary layer of fertilizer.

Thus, the correct alternation of crops will avoid one-sided depletion of the same elements in the soil, an increase in the concentration of certain types of pests and pathogenic bacteria in it, as well as an uneven load on the soil of the same root system of plants.

Another reason that makes it necessary to rotate crops on the site is weed control. There are plants that are sensitive to such a neighborhood (for example, garlic, onions, carrots, parsley, parsnips), they are best planted after those crops that leave behind a minimum amount of weeds. These plants include tomatoes, peas, potatoes, cabbage.

What to plant after

So, we found out that the rotation of crops is a necessary and quite economical technique that allows you to maintain soil fertility and ensure uniform high yield. But since the needs of different cultures for trace elements, fertilizers and other conditions are different, knowledge general rules and principles does not always allow you to correctly determine which plants in which sequence to alternate on your site.

Did you know? There are two simple rules scheduling landings. First, you should not alternate representatives of the same family. For example, both tomatoes and potatoes are nightshade; both carrots and dill are umbrella plants. Secondly, the plants in which it is eaten should be alternated with each other. top part, with those where the root is valuable (“tops and roots”). It must be understood that this is a rather primitive rule, and it should be used only if more accurate information could not be found for one reason or another.

What then to plant in the beds can be found in the numerous tables developed by agronomists and amateurs. For those who do not want to study theory and are looking for simple answers to questions on specific crops - below are some tips on which vegetables can be planted after which.

What can be planted after cabbage

Cabbage is exposed to many pests and diseases, therefore, answering the question of what to plant after cabbage next year, any gardener will say with confidence: just not cabbage, even if we are talking about other types of it! This is the worst option imaginable, but if there is no other way, the soil must be very well fertilized with compost.

Cabbage as a predecessor is not suitable for crops such as radish, rutabaga and turnips, since these plants are favorite food for the same pests.

It is ideal to plant onions or garlic after cabbage. Carrots, celery, potatoes, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes are also allowed. In addition, cabbage gets along well with these vegetables in the neighborhood, since in this case it is less damaged by diseases and harmful insects. But next to tomatoes, beans, parsley and tomatoes, cabbage, on the contrary, should not be planted.
Potatoes, radishes, cucumbers, carrots, peas, onions, garlic, and annual herbs are considered good predecessors of cabbage.

What to plant after garlic

Garlic, as well as onions, is not recommended to be planted for a long time in the same place, and also to alternate with each other. What can be planted after garlic in the garden is potatoes, especially early ripe ones. Tomatoes, cucumbers, legumes, beets or cabbage are also acceptable options.

But it is best to plant annual herbs after garlic and onions, which are intended to restore the soil for later use, replenish its mineral reserve and destroy weeds. Mustard, phacelia, some varieties of green peas, rye, and rapeseed do well with this role.

What to plant after cucumbers

Cucumbers are much more demanding on the composition of the soil than many other crops. The soil before planting is usually especially carefully fertilized with both organic and mineral top dressing. It follows that planting after cucumbers next year should be something less picky. For example, cabbage is absolutely not suitable for these purposes, which also needs fertile soil. They feel good in the area where cucumbers grew, various root crops - beets, radishes, turnips, carrots, parsley, celery. In order to improve the composition of the soil after cucumbers, legumes can be planted and only after that other vegetable crops can be used, for example, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, corn, lettuce.

Important! The soil is fertile not only due to the presence in it of a certain set of trace elements. Necessary condition is also the creation natural complex all kinds of microorganisms and various types of organic substances. Therefore, the big mistake is the confidence among summer residents that it is possible to restore depleted soil by thoughtlessly dumping a bucket of compost on the bed and watering it from above with complex mineral fertilizer purchased at the nearest supermarket.

What to plant after strawberries

Strawberries tend to deplete the soil very much, so immediately after transplanting (and it is better to do this once every four years), the bed where it grew must be carefully fed with mineral and organic fertilizers. It is better to do this right from the fall, having thoroughly dug up the soil after adding additives to it.

Strawberries consume especially a lot of nitrogen, so it is best to plant beans, peas and other legumes after it - they, as mentioned, enrich the soil with this element.

The antifungal and volatile properties of garlic make it good helper to clean the soil from pests left in it after strawberries. Simultaneously with garlic, you can also plant parsley, celery and other fragrant greens to drive slugs out of the garden.

Actually, on this planting options for the next year after strawberries are limited. But after the above crops, you can plant any vegetables - cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, pumpkin, etc.

Important! Raspberries and strawberries should not be alternated with each other, as these plants have similar pests.

Well arrange in place of the former strawberry garden flower garden. Perennial peonies, daffodils, tulips and violets will help the soil recover from depleted berries.

What to plant after potatoes

Potatoes, unlike strawberries, consume a lot of potassium and phosphorus, so the soil after harvesting the tubers lacks these elements. You can make up for the loss with mineral fertilizers, or you can plant annual herbs that generate potassium and phosphorus after themselves. This role can be performed by dope grass, mustard, oats, peas, rape, phacelia.

If it is not possible to completely free the site after potatoes for a whole year, you can plant a pumpkin on it. Other crops require pre-application mineral fertilizers to restore soil fertility. However, as mentioned above, tomatoes, eggplants and other nightshade crops cannot be planted after potatoes. The same applies to pepper.

Successfully make the same pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, cabbage, onions as predecessors of potatoes.

What to plant after tomatoes

We decided that eggplant, potatoes and peppers should not be planted after tomatoes. As with other cultures, after tomatoes, it is ideal to plant annuals that will fill the soil with the missing elements. If there is no opportunity for such luxury, it does not matter! Peas, beans and other legumes will help make up for the lack of nitrogen in the soil, cabbage will also feel good in the garden where tomatoes grew, since the pests of these crops are different. There are no contraindications for planting cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, carrots, beets, green salads, onions, garlic. In addition, tomatoes are that little, after which carrots can be planted.

What to plant after beets

The choice of what can be planted after beets for the next year is quite large. Potatoes, tomatoes and other solanaceous plants are suitable for this purpose, however, before such planting, the soil must be well fed with humus or peat. You can also plant garlic and onions. good option is the carrot. By the way, the predecessors of carrots in the garden, in addition to beets and the tomatoes mentioned above, are also cucumbers, onions, garlic and cabbage.

The above crops also work in reverse order, that is, in relation to what it is better to plant beets after. To this list, you can add cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, lettuce, greens - parsley, dill, celery.

What can be planted after pepper

The root system of sweet pepper is located in upper layers soil, so after it it is best to plant crops with deeper roots. It can be root crops (radishes, radishes, beets, carrots), except for potatoes, as well as onions, garlic, cucumbers, beans and greens.

You can not plant any crops of the nightshade family after pepper. Myself Bell pepper can be planted after peas, zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage, beets, celery.

What can be planted after peas

Peas, as mentioned above, are a good predecessor for so many crops. Thus, the ability of this plant to enrich the soil with nitrogen will especially favorably affect the yield of potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, beets, carrots, radishes, cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkins, melons, as well as various types of cabbage.

However, peas have one unpleasant feature: they are very susceptible to fungal diseases and root rot, especially under conditions high humidity. Therefore, if a culture affected by such an ailment grew on the site, neither peas nor other legumes should be planted in this place next year. Spores of such diseases can persist in the soil for 5-6 years, so during this period it is better to use the bed for crops less susceptible to these diseases.

What to plant then: a table of predecessors of vegetable crops when planting

With regard to desired and unwanted predecessors specific vegetable crops there are a huge number of general and specific rules, summarized for clarity in various tables. These can be consulted whenever appropriate rotations are planned.

For example, you can group crop rotation rules in the following way:

culture	Good predecessor	Possible predecessor	Bad predecessor
Legumes, cucumbers, cabbage	Carrots, beets, onions	Solanaceae (tomatoes, eggplants, peppers)
Garlic, onion	Potatoes, carrots, legumes, cucumbers	Cabbage, tomatoes, beets	Onion, garlic, pepper, physalis
tomatoes	Cabbage (especially cauliflower), carrots, onions, cucumbers, greens		Any nightshade, physalis
Pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkin)	Legumes, nightshade (potatoes, tomatoes), cabbage, onions	Beets, greens	Any pumpkin
Legumes (peas, beans, beans)	Strawberries, cucumber, potatoes, cabbage,	tomatoes	perennial herbs
Carrot	Onion, cucumber	Radishes, beets, cabbage
Greenery	Cabbage, cucumbers	Legumes, potatoes, tomatoes, onions	Carrots, parsnips, celery
Eggplant	Legumes, turnip, swede, cucumber, cabbage, onion, gourds		Nightshade
Pepper	Turnip, carrot, cucumber, cabbage, swede, legumes,	Onion garlic	Solanaceae, pumpkin
Potato, cucumber, onion	Legumes, tomatoes	Carrot
Legumes, nightshade, onion, garlic	Lettuce, corn	Pumpkin, swede, carrot, turnip, radish, turnip

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Thus, referring to such tips, you can always clarify, after which, for example, plant onions or how to sow a garden bed on which tomatoes grew.

However, not only tables, but also firmly learned rules will help to correctly determine the predecessors of vegetables during planting.

Important! Categorically bad predecessors are: beets, radishes, turnips and radishes for cabbage (and vice versa); carrots, tomatoes and cabbage - for onions, beans - for carrots and cucumbers, carrots for cucumbers and beets.

But then you can plant carrots and other root crops, so this is after garlic or onions. Also, root crops grow well after greenery and vice versa.

Neighboring cultures

In addition to answering the question of what to plant after, it is equally important to know what to plant with what, that is, which crops can and cannot be planted side by side. The fact is that plants have an influence on each other, which can be both positive and negative. Knowing the basic rules, you can avoid mistakes and solve many problems that prevent a stable crop.

For example, as mentioned above, the root system of plants releases toxic substances that protect the crop from diseases and pests. At the same time, such poisons can harm neighboring plants, or, on the contrary, can provide them with additional protection. So, the colins secreted by mustard have a beneficial effect on peas, carrots and garlic, but are poorly tolerated by cabbage. Knowing this feature, it is easy to determine with what peas can be planted and cabbage should not be planted.

What crops are best planted in the neighborhood

So, joint plantings are an important crop rotation rule that allows you to optimally use limited space plot, as well as improve crop yields.
For example, potatoes and beans are great neighbors. He protects her from such a pest as caryopsis, and she fills his need for nitrogen and repels the Colorado potato beetle. In addition to beans, it is useful to place cabbage, corn, spinach, eggplant, horseradish, carrots, radish, dill, and lettuce next to potatoes. All these plants have a beneficial effect on the potato crop, removing excess moisture from the soil. And onions and garlic planted nearby protect potatoes from late blight.

By the way, garlic has a beneficial effect on many crops, so there are enough options with which to plant it. Strawberries are considered classics, as these plants are equally useful for each other: garlic protects capricious strawberries from diseases and pests, and the berry contributes to the formation more garlic cloves. The enzymes secreted by carrots have the same effect on the plant: under their influence, the garlic bulb becomes larger.

Did you know? If you plant garlic and horseradish next to each other, the amount of vitamin C increases in both.

From various diseases and pests (aphids, bears, cockchafers), garlic saves not only vegetable crops, for example, tomatoes, beets, cucumbers, carrots, but also flowers - gladioli, cloves, roses, etc. But the garlic itself from the dangerous onion flies can save marigold and chicory.

Dill and corn are something that can be planted next to cucumbers, carrots get along well with peas, peas themselves with potatoes, tomatoes and eggplants. Gourds are best planted separately.

Other rules regarding what to plant with what in the beds can be presented in the form of a table:

culture
beans	cucumbers, potatoes, cabbage, lettuce, radishes, beets, tomatoes, eggplants, gourds	peas, garlic, onion
peas	cabbage, lettuce, carrot, radish	beans, potatoes, garlic, onions, tomatoes
strawberry	garlic, onion, lettuce, radish
cucumbers	beans, garlic, cabbage, lettuce, celery, onion, greens	tomatoes, radishes, potatoes, zucchini
potato	beans, onions, garlic, cabbage, eggplant, horseradish, carrots, dill, lettuce	tomatoes, peas, sunflower
cabbage	peas, cucumbers, potatoes, lettuce, radishes, beets	garlic, onion, tomato
beet	cucumbers, lettuce	onion, cabbage
tomatoes	garlic, cabbage, lettuce, leek	peas, cucumbers, potatoes
onion	strawberries, cucumbers, lettuce, carrots, beets	beans, cabbage, tomatoes
pepper	cucumbers, kohlrabi	tomatoes, beans
zucchini	beans, beets, onions	cucumbers

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"Neighbours-enemies"

As can be seen from the above table, in addition to a successful neighborhood, there is also an extremely undesirable neighborhood. As a rule, plants "feud" due to the incompatibility of the substances they secrete. For example, black walnut has a depressing effect on most vegetables due to the juglone it releases. Vegetables are also not good for the neighborhood of wormwood. If you plant legumes and onions nearby, both will develop poorly. Literally all cultures feel oppressed with fennel, therefore given plant it is better to plant separately from others. Potatoes and cucumbers, tomatoes and strawberries are also poorly compatible.
Eggplants and tomatoes do not like the neighborhood of other nightshades; peppers and beets, cabbage and strawberries do not get along nearby.

Did you know? I wonder what is beautiful and loved by everyone conifer tree, like spruce, has an adverse effect on almost all trees, and this effect persists for decades after the spruce itself is cut down.

Sometimes it happens that plants have different effects on each other, depending on their number. As they say, there is medicine in a spoon, and poison in a cup. In this case, you can arrange the neighborhood of such a culture in small quantities, for example, along the edge of the garden. For example, such an experiment can be carried out with valerian, yarrow or nettle, planting them in small groups near vegetables.

Thus, it is important for any gardener to know what to plant next, and proper planning of crops during planting is a way to protect the soil from depletion and help plants naturally support each other for better growth and development.

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