Do-it-yourself plasterboard walls. Drywall on walls without a frame - simple installation, excellent results How to properly mount drywall on walls

The construction of new partitions is no longer a rarity when performing modern repairs. With their help, the layout of the object changes. As a result, the property owner manages to harmoniously organize the living space in accordance with their needs. To implement the plans, you need to know how to install drywall, because it is an innovative finishing material.

With its help, it is possible to quickly erect structures, level walls or ceilings, and even increase the noise and heat insulation of rooms. Moreover, drywall allows you to perform all the planned work on your own, as the material is convenient and easy to use when mounted on a frame or on glue.

Tools and materials for the frame method of installing drywall

This option for fixing drywall sheets is suitable for different rooms. The frame is created on the walls, ceiling and during the construction of interior partitions. Installation of drywall in all cases is carried out in almost the same way. To implement it, you need to prepare the following tools:

• level,
• pencil,
• fishing line or rope
• plumb line,
• roulette,
• a hammer,
• construction knife,
• hacksaw for metal (scissors),
• square,
• perforator,
• screwdriver,
• grater for plasterboard.

Of course, the frame can be mounted from wooden beams, but most often a special metal profile is used. It has two main sizes:

• W, with the help of which the construction of the general frame of the wall structure is carried out.
• D, designed to form a plane for attaching drywall sheets.

Each of the above types is divided into a support and a guide profile. They are designated respectively by the letters C and U. The profile, which is a guide, is a simple frame element. It has smooth walls and has a U-shape. A support profile is fixed in it, which has a special ribbing, which increases bending rigidity.

When creating a frame, depending on its design, the following types of profiles are mounted:

• CD - an element that performs a load-bearing function and has a size of 60x27 mm.
• UD - guide element, the size of which is 28x27 mm. With its help, the CD profile is fixed.
• CW is a rack element designed for the manufacture of a wall structure frame. Its height is 50 mm, and its width is 50, 75 or 100 mm.
• UW - guide element for CW profile. It has a height of 40 mm, and the width can be 50, 75 or 100 mm.

LLC "Profile systems" - production of LSTK for frame construction www.profilsistem.ru/karkasnoe-stroitelstvo-lstk.html.

You can also make a frame using the UA profile. It is a reinforced version of the CW element, characterized by a thicker wall. If a narrow partition is being erected, the width of which does not exceed 100 mm, then in this case the CW and UW parts are mounted. When a thicker wall is required, then the CD and UD elements are used. In this case, on each side of the structure, 2 guides will have to be installed parallel to each other at the required distance.

When mounting the frame, you also need to use a direct suspension and a crab, which is a universal type connector. To combine all the elements into a single structure, flea screws are used. They must have a drill tip. At the same time, you will have to fix the drywall with your own hands to the profile with 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws with a countersunk head.

When choosing a material, you need to pay attention to its color. On the wall in the bathroom or in the kitchen, you need to buy green drywall, which is moisture resistant. At the same time, its thickness should be 12.5 mm, and the chamfer should be wide.

For the construction of the structure, you will also need nylon dowels and self-tapping screws suitable for them, with the help of which the frame will be fixed to the main walls and ceiling of the object. You also need to prepare a heat insulator to fill the internal cavity of the partition and a sealing tape.

Creation of a plasterboard wall frame

Planning and placement of the new partition begins after the leveling of the floor and adjacent walls is completed. In other words, they must be ready for finishing. The current rules clearly indicate that at the very beginning of work it is necessary to mark the floor. During the implementation of this process, the following nuances must be taken into account.

In the premises of most objects, there are no right angles between the walls. This is especially true for older houses. Therefore, the distance between parallel wall structures varies at different points. As a result, when marking a new plasterboard partition, it is necessary to bind not to one, but to two parallel walls at once. This will visually reduce the curvature of the created room.

If not only a partition is created at the facility, but it is also decided to fix the drywall on the walls that are already present in the room, then in this case it is necessary to first remove the frame around the entire perimeter of the room and only after that proceed with the construction of a new interior structure.

When drawing the first line on the floor, it must be borne in mind that it marks the edge of the guide profile. Therefore, the thickness of drywall, putty mixture and finishing finishing material will be added to it later.

To transfer the marking line from the floor to the ceiling, a plumb line is used. The work can be greatly simplified if you use a laser level.

Note! Many object owners are interested in how to properly attach the profile to the supporting structures of the room (walls, ceiling, floor). Sealing tape should always be used during this process. It is laid between the wall and the profile, which is fixed after 500 mm with impact screws with plastic dowels.

First, the UW profile is fastened. It is fixed both on the floor and on the ceiling. Then support posts must be installed, for which a CW profile is used. It is also fixed vertically in the place where it is supposed to place the opening for the door and / or window.

It is recommended to first fix the support profiles on the lower rails. In this case, the front side of these elements must be located inside the openings being created. It is desirable to strengthen these support profiles with wooden bars. They are inserted inside the vertically arranged frame elements and fixed with self-tapping screws.

Note! When using the AU profile, you can not additionally reinforce the structure with wooden blocks.

After fixing all the profiles along the perimeter of the structure, the supporting CW elements are fixed. The first such detail must be placed from the load-bearing wall at a distance of 550 mm. All other elements are fixed at a distance of 600 mm from each other.

When creating the top of a window or door opening, a UW profile is applied. At the same time, its length must be 300 mm longer than the actual width of the opening. On each side of this part, 150 mm is measured. After that, the edges are bent 90 degrees. To simplify the operation, it is recommended to cut the sidewalls of the profile. As a result of the whole process, a workpiece in the form of the letter P should be obtained. This design is inserted into the opening and fixed with self-tapping screws at the desired height.

Fastening and cutting drywall sheets

To properly build a structure, you need to know how to fix drywall on a frame, the dimensions of which have standard dimensions. The width of one sheet is always 1200 mm, while its length can be 2000, 2500 or 3000 mm. If the ceilings in the rooms are high, then at least two plasterboard parts will need to be fixed in a vertical plane.

From the very first sheet of drywall, the installation of which is carried out near the main wall, it is necessary to remove the side chamfer. This operation is performed by cutting off 50 mm of material. To carry out this procedure, a construction knife is used.

The process itself must be done exclusively on a flat surface with increased hardness. A plasterboard sheet is laid on it, on which the cut line is indicated with a pencil. Then, using a construction knife, the top layer of material is cut. Then the incision line must be aligned with the edge of the solid base. After that, the drywall material breaks. Next, the sheet is turned over and bent. Then an incision is made along the line formed. However, it does not need to be done through, as the sheet will break easily and evenly if placed on the edge of the support or lightly pressed on the material.

When the drywall part acquires the desired dimensions, the next step is to create a chamfer on the edged end. For this, a special planer is used. In this case, the chamfer should have a slope of 22.5 degrees. It is needed for high-quality sealing of the joint of two sheets using gypsum putty. A chamfer must be created on all edges to which other plasterboard parts will adjoin. A video will always help to better understand the process of cutting GKL. It is available to all users.

Drywall on the walls or ceiling is attached in a checkerboard pattern directly to the previously created frame from a metal profile. For this, self-tapping screws are used, the diameter of which is 3.5 mm, and the length is 35 mm. First, the corners of the GKL are fixed, and then the edges and the middle part with an interval between screws of 250 mm. This distance must not be exceeded, but can be reduced to 100 mm if necessary.

You need to screw in the screws until their hats are slightly deepened into the material. In other words, they should not stick out above the surface of the sheet.

If an interior partition is created, then the second side of the new wall is sheathed in the same way. After fixing all the sheets, you can start sealing the seams. For this, a mounting grid and starting putty are used. In this case, the finishing mixture is applied in those places where it was necessary to turn the screws. This mortar can also be used to coat the entire surface of a drywall structure. This option is relevant if the installation was carried out on the ceiling or the sheets will subsequently be finished with thin wallpaper or covered with paint.

Advantages and disadvantages of fixing drywall to the frame

The advantages of this method of installing drywall sheets include the following advantages:

• the possibility of leveling surfaces with even significant differences,
• one hundred percent masking of all flaws on the basis,
• high degree of reliability of fixing plasterboard sheets,
• there is no need to prepare the base,
• if necessary, it is possible to insulate the created structure by placing a suitable heat-insulating material inside,
• the absence of operations that require the use of water,
• you can make a structure on a frame in absolutely any room.

However, this method of fastening drywall sheets is still characterized by a small number of disadvantages. If you apply this method of fixing the material, then there is a decrease in the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Another disadvantage is the lack of a wall directly behind the drywall, which has low maintainability.

Despite the large number of advantages and the minimum number of disadvantages of the method of attaching drywall to the frame, many people prefer to simply glue this modern material on the surface.

Fixing drywall with glue

Plasterboard sheets may be glued to the wall surface only under the following conditions:

• There is no need to perform additional noise and heat insulation of the room, since it will not work to securely attach the material to the fibrous insulator.
• The difference in irregularities on the base does not exceed 2 cm, since at a larger value the sheets will be skewed or they simply will not stick to the surface.
• The length of drywall is equal to or greater than the height of the room. Otherwise, you will have to make a lot of effort so that the mounted first and subsequent sheet is located strictly vertically. In most cases, the result will be unsatisfactory.

Failure to comply with the above conditions results in additional costs, as you have to redo the work. Incorrect installation is one of the most common mistakes inexperienced people make. Therefore, it is recommended to follow the advice of professionals.

Wall treatment before gluing drywall

Before starting to glue the sheets, it is necessary to carry out the wiring. In this case, the installation of cables is carried out in strobes. In extreme cases, the wiring can be laid in special cable channels.

At the next stage, the walls are cleaned of old finishing material, as well as dust and dirt. Any oil stains must be removed from them. If there are large recesses on the walls, then they must be repaired with a suitable diluted dry mixture. After that, the surfaces are covered with a primer, which increases adhesion and reduces the moisture absorption of the walls.

Features of gluing drywall

The degree of unevenness of the base affects the method of gluing drywall. If there are small differences on the wall, not exceeding 5 mm, then gypsum putty can be used as an adhesive. Before applying it, each sheet must be cut in such a way that after fixing it to the floor, a distance of 10 to 15 mm remains. It is necessary for the penetration of air under the GKL, since air is required to dry the solution. Therefore, during the gluing of the sheets, it is necessary to put scraps of material under them. After the completion of all processes, they are removed, and the resulting space is eliminated with a sealant that will prevent the drywall from absorbing moisture from the screed or when cleaning the floor.

Communication holes also need to be taken care of during the work. Their trimming is best done after gluing the sheets. This will avoid inaccurate location of holes for switches and sockets.

When gluing drywall to the wall, you must first apply putty to the material using a notched trowel. It is placed both around the perimeter and in the center of the sheet. If it is planned to hang a shelf or some other piece of furniture on the wall in the future, then in this case the adhesive is applied over the entire area of ​​the drywall. For better fixation of the sheet on the surface, you can even screw self-tapping screws into nylon dowels installed in pre-drilled holes.

To perfectly align each sheet in a vertical plane, use a board and a hammer. With the help of these tools, the material is selected to the base. After the adhesive has dried, the seams between the sheets are sealed with putty.

If the surface of the wall has large irregularities, then Perlfix glue is used to glue the drywall. This composition must be placed in groups, the distance between which must be 250 mm. It is recommended to additionally apply markings on the floor and ceiling for perfect alignment. In this case, you always need to ensure that all sheets are located exclusively in the same plane.

For a better assimilation of the material, it is recommended to get acquainted with the video, which tells about the installation of drywall panels with your own hands. After that, it will definitely become clear how to properly install drywall when repairing an apartment or some other object.

Often there is a need to align the walls in the apartment. One of the simplest and most affordable means is the installation of drywall, and by doing it yourself, you can significantly save the family budget.

Material selection

Types and purpose of drywall

Before proceeding directly to work, it is necessary to determine the required material.

In any good hardware store, you will be offered a choice of 4 types of drywall, this

• GKL - normal drywall sheet gray color with black or blue marking lines, which is suitable for normal dry heated rooms. It is used for both walls and ceilings. The thickness is 6 mm, 9 mm, 12.5 mm. For walls, ceilings and partitions, it is recommended to use sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm. The remaining dimensions are for arched, curved structures and radius surfaces.

• GKLV - waterproof plasterboard sheet green with black or blue marking lines. The manufacturer adds antifungal impurities to the gypsum itself, and the cardboard coating is made moisture resistant. This type of drywall is used for finishing rooms with high humidity ( eg: bathroom).

• GKLO - fireproof gypsum board red with black or blue marking lines. It contains reinforcing constituents in gypsum that increase resistance to open flame. It is used for finishing industrial premises, ventilation, attics, electrical panels.
• GKLVO - gypsum board moisture and fire resistant green with red markings. It combines the properties of GKLV and GKLO. It is used for finishing industrial premises with high humidity and having increased requirements for compliance with fire safety standards.

Drywall edge types:

• PC, SK - transverse cut edge of GKL, not pasted over with cardboard;
• PK, VK - rectangular longitudinal edge for dry mounting without joint filler;
• ZK - rounded edge. It is used when using dry plaster without sickle;
• FK - transverse cutting edge, designed for filling joints without reinforcing tapes with an open gypsum core;
• UK, AK - beveled (compressed), thinned edge, intended for pasting with sickle and puttying seams;
• PLUK, HRAK - a semi-circular, beveled along the length (thinned) edge, for pasting with sickle and puttying seams;
• PLC, HRK - a semi-circular longitudinal edge, designed for puttying joints without a sickle.

Advice: choose drywall with markings UK and PLUK to avoid the formation of protrusions due to which the layer of putty increases when finishing!

What to look for when buying drywall:

• drywall is supplied to the store in packs, the bottom sheets of which are packaging and, most often, have a thickness of 12 mm. They are necessary to prevent damage to the main commodity sheets. Careless sellers, trying to earn money, sell them, although they are defective and subject to disposal;
• all corners must be intact, without signs of crumbling, the cardboard must not be damaged;
• sheets should be stored in dry warehouses in a horizontal position;

Choice of frame profiles

For the installation of walls or the construction of plasterboard partitions, the following types of profiles are used:

• PS (CD) - rack profile. Used as vertical racks of the frame. The range of sizes for this profile:
  • 50/50-a*b=48.8mm*48.5mm;
  • 65/50-a*b=63.8mm*48.5mm;
  • 75/50-a*b=73.8mm*48.5mm;
  • 100/50-a*b=98.8mm*48.5mm.

Installation of the rack profile is carried out in a guide profile of the appropriate size;

• MON (UD) — guide profile. It is mainly used along the perimeter of the wall. The range of sizes for this profile:
  • 50/40-48.8*38.5mm;
  • 65/40-63.8*38.5mm;
  • 75/40-73.8*38.5mm;
  • 100/40-98.8*38.5mm;
  • 28/27-28*27mm;
  • 28/18-28*18mm.
• As a rack profile is very often used ceiling profile PP, it is produced in only one size - 60x27 mm, so PN 28/27 is used with it. The PS profile is mainly used for the construction of partitions.

Advice: When buying a profile, you should pay attention to its quality. The profile should be chosen hard, this will improve the quality of the work performed

U-shaped suspensions are used to fasten the rack profiles to the wall.

Calculation of the required material

Before going to the hardware store, you need to decide on the amount of material that you need.

Calculation of drywall

To buy drywall, you need to calculate how many sheets we need, for this we do the following:

• we calculate the area of ​​​​the wall or walls that you are going to sew up by multiplying the height and width of the walls;
• if there are door or window openings, we calculate their area and subtract from the total area of ​​​​the walls;
• Since unsuitable pieces from pruning always remain during work, it is necessary to add another 10-15% to the resulting final area;
• when sheathing a wall in two layers, multiply the resulting number by two.

Profile calculation

To calculate the number of profiles, you can use the following sequence:

• Measure the height and length of the wall on which we will mount the frame.
• The number of guides (UD) is calculated by the formula: (wall height * 2 + length * 2) * 1.2 (correction factor) / 3 (length of one UD) = the sum of the profiles, which is rounded up.
• We calculate the number of rack-mount (CD) profiles according to the formula: (room length in centimeters / 60 centimeters) * 1.2 (correction factor) -1 = number of CDs, which is also rounded up.
• The amount of U-shaped suspensions is calculated by the formula: the number of CD * 5.

Fastener calculation

The calculation of the number of screws for drywall is performed as follows:

• if the wall is sewn up in one layer, then the sheets are screwed in increments of no more than 25 cm with self-tapping screws 28 mm long;
• if the wall is sewn up in two layers, then the first layer is twisted in increments of 60 cm with self-tapping screws 28 mm long, and the second layer in increments of 25 cm with self-tapping screws 35 mm long so that they reach the profiles;
• based on the dimensions of a standard drywall sheet (1200mm by 2500mm), we get the approximate number of self-tapping screws (do not forget to add 10-15%) - 1st layer - 16 pcs. per sheet, 2nd layer - 35 pcs. on a sheet.

The calculation of the number of dowels for fastening the guide profile and U-shaped hangers is carried out as follows:

• the length of one guide profile in centimeters (300 cm) is divided by the recommended fastening step of 40 cm, not forgetting to add 10-15% to the resulting number for the stock and multiply the final number by the number of purchased PN profile;
• for each U-shaped suspension there are 2 dowels.

As a standard, dowels are used with a size of 6x40 mm, with a mushroom cap.

Quantity calculation self-tapping screws (press washers) for fastening the rack profile is carried out as follows:

• if rack profiles are not spliced ​​(wall height<3 метров), то количество прессшайб около 4 шт. на профиль, без учета крепления к П-образному подвесу на который приходится ещё по 2 прессшайбы на 1 подвес;
• if rack profiles are spliced ​​(wall height> 3 meters), then the number of press washers increases to 8 pcs.

Required Tools

You can read more about all the tools in the article.

Marking and installation of the frame

Before marking and mounting the frame, it is necessary to prepare the workplace. If there were wallpapers on the walls before, then it is advisable to peel them off and impregnate the wall with an antifungal primer, but if the room is dry and without variable humidity, this step can be skipped.

Work sequence:

• find the most protruding part of the wall and project it onto the floor, step back from this point the width of the guide profile and use a laser or string to make markings along the entire wall.

Advice: It is rare to find perfectly right angles between walls in rooms. Especially in older buildings. The distance between them at different ends may differ by several centimeters. When marking the future frame, you should take this into account and bind not to one wall, but to two parallel ones. Distances are averaged. So you will avoid the visual curvature of the resulting room.

Having made the first line on the floor, you can transfer it to the ceiling and walls. To do this, you can use a plumb line or a laser level, this will greatly simplify the task.

If there is an assistant, then by inserting a rack profile, cut to the height of the wall, into the guide, using the building level, you can move the point from the floor to the ceiling.

When all the lines are drawn, you can proceed with the installation of the guide profile. All profiles that are attached to existing structures are mounted using a sealing tape between it and the supporting surface. First, the profile guides are fixed to the floor and ceiling. They are fixed with dowel-nails every 40-50 cm and along the edges.

After installing the guide profile, the rack-mount ones are set, at a distance of 60 cm from each other, measured from the centers of the profiles. The length of the rack profile should be 1-1.5 cm shorter than the height of the wall, otherwise it will be under tension and give an uneven wall surface.

Advice: masters do not recommend leaving drywall strips less than 10 cm, so if the wall is not a multiple of the number of drywall sheets in length and just a strip of 10 or less centimeters remains, then you should move the first and subsequent profiles so that sheets lie in width from the edges of the wall more than 10 cm (preferably 30-40 cm).

When all rack profiles are exposed, it is necessary to strengthen the structure with U-shaped suspensions, making sure that all profiles remain in the same plane.

After fixing the suspensions, we set the jumpers between the rack profiles in increments of 60 cm.

In order to save material, sometimes not all jumpers are placed, but only at the level of possible future loads according to the knee-belt-shoulder rule.

Jumpers are made from the same profile as the frame racks. For their fastening to the racks I use crabs, but most often they use self-tapping screws. To do this, the rack profile is cut into 60 cm and the side walls are cut along each edge with scissors by 4-5 cm to form an ear that is attached to the rack profile with press washers.

If you plan to insulate or soundproof the wall, as well as the wiring of all wiring is done before fixing the drywall sheets to the frame.

After installing all the jumpers and all additional operations, you can proceed to fixing the drywall to the frame.

Installation of drywall on the frame

The fixing of drywall should be done in a checkerboard pattern so that there is no docking line along the entire wall, along which a crack can occur during the operation of the room. If the wall is sheathed in two layers, then the seams of the first layer should also not coincide with the seams of the second layer.

Start fastening the sheet to the profile should be from the middle, gradually moving to the edges or from one corner to another, in order to avoid loose adjoining of the sheets to the frame. The recommended fastening step with self-tapping screws is no more than 25 cm.

The gap between the sheets and the floor should be within 10 mm, to avoid warping of the sheets of the floor covering during its free movement when walking.

The sheets should not fit snugly against each other, there should be a gap of 5 mm between them.

At first, you can wind only whole sheets, and leave the trimming for later, so you save yourself time without constantly switching to different operations.

Self-tapping screws should be screwed into drywall at a right angle. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be completely recessed into the sheet, this is necessary for trouble-free further puttying of the walls.

After the entire wall is sheathed with drywall sheets, at all non-factory joints we cut off the chamfer at an angle of approximately 45' (we cut off the gypsum at an angle of approximately 20-22' from each side of the joint). This is necessary so that after puttying the wall, the joints are not noticeable.

You can see an example of the installation of drywall walls in the following video:

wall finishing

After finishing the installation of drywall on the frame, you can proceed to the finishing of the wall, which consists in puttying the surface of the entire wall.

Before puttying, it is necessary to prime the entire wall, special attention should be paid to the joints of drywall sheets.

First of all, all the seams of the self-tapping screws on the wall are filled with putty, after it dries a little, we close the seams with sickle or fiberglass. After that, we putty the seams over the sickle, and then go to the entire plane of the wall. After the putty has completely dried, it must be primed again to perform the following work, whether it be painting or wallpapering. You can see how to perform wall puttying work in this video:

You can learn more about plastering plasterboard walls from our articles on the website.

If you have any questions about the work with drywall, you can ask them in the comments.

Drywall has long occupied its niche in the market. It enjoys well-deserved popularity, as it is a versatile material that can be attached to walls or ceilings or used as a partition. However, depending on the place of installation, installation methods will change, various tricks will appear that must be taken into account when carrying out work.

Drywall is used to level walls and ceilings in a room.

There are several ways: on a metal or wooden frame or on glue. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. It is worth considering them in more detail.

Mounting on the walls in a frame way: the necessary materials and tools

This method is applicable to any premises, regardless of their size and purpose. The frame is used when closing walls and ceilings, as well as when erecting a partition from gypsum plasterboard. It is worth noting that the crate is assembled in almost the same way in all cases.

At the initial stage, it is necessary to prepare all materials and tools. To carry out the work you will need:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• a hammer;
• mounting knife;
• self-tapping screws for wood or metal (depending on the material of the crate);
• scissors or a hacksaw for metal;
• drywall;
• profiles or slats;
• mounting hangers;
• pencil;
• level;
• roulette;
• plumb;
• square.

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Wall preparation and ground marking

Important! Substrate preparation includes cleaning the wall from easily peelable coatings, repairing in the presence of significant damage, and removing deformations.

The next step is markup. From the wall to be closed, it is necessary to indent the distance necessary for laying communications and insulation. Further, the location of the guide profiles located on the floor and ceiling, as well as on the walls, is noted. All guides must be in the same plane. Then it is noted where the rack profiles will be located. The distance between them should be 40-60 cm. In this case, it is necessary to calculate the distance so that the edges of the drywall sheets lie on the profiles, and do not fall into the gap between them.

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Mounting the frame for plasterboard

Next, the frame is assembled. First of all, guide profiles are installed on the floor and ceiling. The reliability of the entire structure will depend on them, so they need to be fixed very carefully. Installation of profiles is carried out using dowels with a pitch of 40-60 cm. Further, guides are installed on the walls in a similar way.

Then, mounting plumb lines are mounted to the wall along the line of the supporting profiles. The step is 60 cm. On adjacent lines, it is desirable to shift the plumb lines relative to each other. You can arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. This will give greater strength and rigidity to the structure. Next, rack profiles are inserted into the guides and bred in their places. They are attached to the guides and to the plumb lines. Self-tapping screws can be used for this operation. If the plumb lines have “ears”, they should be wrapped inside the frame. After installing the vertical profiles, proceed to the installation of the transverse ones. All operations are performed in the same way.

If the profile is too long, it can be cut using a hacksaw or metal shears. If, on the contrary, it is short, then it is necessary to increase the length using special connectors.
The crate of wooden bars is assembled in a similar way.

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Installing plasterboard on walls

The last step is the installation of drywall. However, before proceeding to the final stage, it is necessary to resolve the issue of sound and heat insulation of the room. As a heater, you can use mineral wool, foam sheets, cork. All of these materials absorb sound well. The installation of communications, the laying of engineering systems is carried out before the walls are sewn up with gypsum boards.
When the room is insulated and all communications are connected, you can proceed with the installation of sheets. To do this, you need metal screws.

Important! GKL is drilled every 30-40 cm to all frame profiles.

During installation, the following rules must be observed:

1. Sheets should lie down in a checkerboard pattern or like brickwork.
2. GKL can be mounted both vertically and horizontally.
3. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the material at a right angle, deviations are unacceptable. The heads must be recessed into the drywall by at least 1 mm. Tails - go out of the profile by at least 10 mm.
4. The panels must be securely fixed around the perimeter and in the center to prevent sagging. The edges of the sheets must fit on the profile.
5. When fastening the GKL, it is necessary to indent from the edge of the sheet with a factory cut of at least 10 mm, with its own - at least 15 mm.

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Pros and cons of this type of drywall installation

This method has much more positive sides, it is more often used:

• walls are leveled even with significant differences, pits or ledges;
• all the flaws of the foundation are masked;
• reliable fastening of drywall;
• there is no need for careful preparation of the base, its alignment, etc.;
• the possibility of additional insulation and soundproofing of the room;
• lack of "wet" operations;
• can be used in any room.

There are only three main disadvantages:

• reduction in the area of ​​​​the room;
• low maintainability;
• there is no solid wall behind the GKL.

If assembling the frame seems too troublesome, then you can try simply gluing the material to the walls.

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Fixing drywall with glue

It is not always possible to glue drywall. It can only be used if the following conditions are met:

1. There is no need for additional heat or sound insulation of the room. It is impossible to qualitatively fix the GKL on mineral wool or other material: after a while it will fall off.
2. Irregularities on the walls do not exceed 20 mm. Otherwise, the sheets will warp, like the base, or will not stick, because on the cavities the glue simply will not reach the wall.
3. The height of the room does not exceed the length of the sheet. The standard panel size is 2500x1200 mm. If the height is greater, then you will have to look for a sheet 3 m long, but not everywhere there are such. It is not allowed to increase the length using cut pieces. It is difficult to do exactly and at the same time with high quality.

If at least one of these conditions is not met, it is better to use the frame method of fastening. It is impossible to glue drywall on the ceiling: in this case, a crate must be used. Of the special advantages of this type of installation, space savings can be noted. It is very handy in small spaces.

This sheet material is currently the most popular for facing internal partitions, and the installation of a plasterboard wall is the simplest and most productive in construction. Therefore, it makes sense to consider what wall cladding with this material is in more detail.

Room layout

The first step prior to the start of construction work is the layout of the premises. If a decision is made to perform the installation of drywall for surface finishing, some points should be taken into account.

The standard dimensions of sheets of this material are 1200 - 1300 x 2500 - 4800 mm with a thickness of 6.5 to 24 mm. At the same time, almost every size is intended to perform its specific task.

To reduce the labor intensity of work, reduce the consumption of fasteners and maximize the effective cutting of material, these data should be taken into account when planning the room. For example, the ceiling height is considered comfortable at 2.5 meters, which corresponds to the size of the sheet. Often this parameter is taken as 2.53, we will indicate the reasons below. Similarly, the width of the premises is desirable as a multiple of an integer number of sheets. Or a multiple of half the size, then cutting the material will be optimal.

When determining the size of the premises, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the internal walls and partitions, since this factor will also affect the cutting of the material. This means that we are moving on to a deeper detail - to determining the dimensions of the crate and the selection of materials for its manufacture. And behind each such detail lies the amount of labor intensity and financial costs.

Types of drywall

Based on the properties laid down by the developers in such building materials, the GKL is divided into the following types:

• ordinary drywall. It consists of a layer of gypsum dough and a cardboard coating on both sides, used for finishing rooms with humidity within the normal range. It is widely used because of the convenience in operation, good machinability, light weight and economy;
• GKL with fire-resistant characteristics. It is convenient to use for utility rooms such as summer kitchens and other non-residential premises. Can be used near heaters, stoves and fireplaces;
• moisture-resistant drywall, allowing its use in rooms with high humidity - baths, bathrooms, bathrooms and others. Thanks to the use of special additives, it is protected from the effects of fungus and mold. Ideal for finishing country houses, where humidity is usually higher than in city apartments;
• fire - moisture resistant material, which is almost universal.

According to the purpose, drywalls are divided into the following categories:

• arched - with a thickness of up to 6.5 mm, allowing large deformations in several planes at the same time, such properties are also given to it by reinforcing additives of the fibrous structure;
• ceiling - thickness up to 9.5 mm, lightweight design;
• wall - for wall decoration and installation of partitions, thickness 12.5 mm.

With this thickness, which is the most popular, the weight of a standard sheet of 1.2 x 2.5 meters is 30 kg.

Drywall tool

The material does not have high mechanical properties and is easily processed with a simple tool. In this case, you can use the following tool:

• saw - hacksaw for wood. Purpose - sawing drywall sheets into parts during installation;
• circular saw - for making long straight cuts when cutting;
• electric jigsaw - sawing parts of complex shape according to the markup;
• construction knife - trimming the edges of parts after sawing;
• tape measure - measurements when marking and cutting;
• construction plumb line - control of the position of the sheet in space during installation;
• carpentry level - the same;
• electric drill - drilling holes for fasteners;
• screwdriver - installation of fasteners when fixing drywall parts, assembling a frame from metal profiles;
• a set of spatulas, including narrow, medium, wide, angled metal and rubber;
• paint brush - for applying a primer;
• foam roller - for the same purpose;
• nozzle on a drill for stirring dry mixtures;
• sandpaper No. 4 or No. 5;
• mixing container.

This is the main set of tools for leveling, priming, and decorative finishing of plasterboard walls.

In addition, you will need materials:

• primer - to strengthen the surface of the walls;
• acrylic putty - repair and preparation of the surface of gypsum boards for the application of the main leveling layer;
• tape - fiberglass sickle;
• drywall fasteners - self-tapping screws of a special shape;
• insulation for laying under sheets of drywall during the construction of partitions for the purpose of insulation and sound insulation;
• GKL of various sizes, including a thickness of 6.5 mm - for creating spatial forms of parts; 9.5 mm thick - for ceilings; 12.5 mm thick - for wall cladding, up to 24 mm thick - for flooring with a dry screed.

Assembling a wall from plasterboard

To build a wall from this material, you will first need to build a base for it - a metal or wooden frame for drywall. The choice of material for the wall is not an idle question. With the seeming benefit of using wood, here the developer faces many difficulties associated with the properties of the material:

• the need for antiseptic treatment of each part, which will help get rid of the risk of developing rot or fungal diseases. Fire treatment, especially if hidden wiring will be laid inside the frame, which most often happens. In addition to working off wood, electrical installation must be placed in a flexible corrugated hose made of special materials;
• careful selection of material on the basis of straightness and absence of helical deformations;
• change in the size of parts with fluctuations in the humidity regime in the room, which is especially important for suburban buildings with periodic visits, resulting in warping of the frame and swelling of the wall surface.

All these difficulties will inevitably require, in addition to material costs, also a large amount of time.

All these shortcomings are deprived of metal frames made of galvanized steel in the form of bent perforated profiles.

Several of their types are produced, designed to perform various structural elements:

1. Ceiling profiles, referred to as CD, with cross-sectional dimensions of 60 x 27mm.
2. Ceiling guide profiles CW 28 x 27 mm.
3. Rack, UD - 50 x 50, 75 x 50 and 100 x 50 mm.
4. Guide profiles with dimensions 50 x 40, 75 x 40, 100 x 40 mm.

The standard length of the profile guides is 3 meters, ceiling and rack - 3 or 4 meters.

As auxiliary parts, U-shaped straight hangers are produced for connecting ceiling and CD profiles.

In addition, you will probably need corner framing profiles and, possibly, arched ones.

The metal profile frame for the wall begins with marking its location. It is made on the floor, and then transferred to the ceiling with a plumb line and a paint cord, which will ensure the strict verticality of the structure.

The installation of a wall or partition must begin with the creation of a frame, while using profiles UW guides and rack CW.

The fastening of the base parts must be carried out in increments of at least 60 cm.

When choosing the spacing of the racks, it should be remembered that the dimensions of the drywall sheet are a multiple of 600 mm, so the racks are set, focusing on this parameter. Attention! At the location of the door on the floor, you need to break the frame.

• on one side of the frame, you need to stretch the vapor barrier film, for which a polyethylene film with a thickness of about 200 microns is used. It is pulled over the frame and fixed with construction tape;
• you need to understand how to fix a sheet of drywall. Important! To perform this work, self-tapping screws of a special design are used.
• Pay attention to the shape of the screw head. It allows, without destroying the surface of the coating, to fix the sheet flush.
• in a similar way, install the remaining parts of the wall sheathing on one side, making a cutout under the doorway;
• the openings between the racks must be filled with insulation, which simultaneously acts as a soundproof device. Otherwise, the double hollow wall will act as a resonator, amplifying sounds. For this purpose, various materials are used, both slab (min-plate) and rolled, such as isover, an insulation device of more than 2 layers will entail the need for a three-dimensional frame. Wall insulation and soundproofing device will allow living to be quite comfortable;
• before sheathing the second side of the frame, you need to install a second layer of vapor protection, acting in the same way as for the first side;
• drywall sheets are sewn over the vapor barrier with screws with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. Their installation is carried out with a step of at least 250 - 300 mm. Therefore, performing this operation manually with a screwdriver is not possible; you cannot do without a screwdriver.

Attention! Cutting of galvanized frame profiles must be done manually with a broom saw. The use of a manual grinder burns out the protective layer, subsequently the metal in this place will actively corrode. After cutting, the end face must be painted over with a special protective paint, 85% consisting of finely dispersed metallic zinc.

Alignment of walls with drywall

Often, during construction or repair, planning the surface of a wall or partition is much easier to do using GKL than with plaster. Usually this is also done using a frame, when drywall is attached to the wall on the profile. Before attaching the profile to the wall, you need to determine the point of its closest location to the wall and install the floor and ceiling guides. Then the installation of racks will not cause problems, since all of them are already structurally distant from the walls.

As a result of the work performed, a smooth wall is obtained and it remains only to prepare its surface for applying the finishing coating.

There is a way to level the wall with drywall without a frame. It should be noted that the surface quality of the base must be sufficiently high. Before attaching drywall to a wall without profiles, you need to carefully remove all protrusions that may interfere with this. Installation technology can be as follows:

• attach a piece of plasterboard to the wall and drill mounting holes. At the same time, traces from the drill will remain on the base surface, which will be marks for the mounting holes;
• remove the part and drill holes for installing plastic inserts using these marks;
• apply a cement or gypsum-based adhesive to the wall, level with a comb trowel. You can also use polyurethane glue;
• install the part in place, fix it with screws.

Knowing how to glue drywall to the wall, you can easily cope with the rest of the coating elements.

Surface putty

For the final preparation of the plane of the walls for the finishing coating, its finishing with putty is used. It is done like this:

• primer with the recommended composition, gluing corners and joints with sickle;
• applying the primary layer of putty, sanding after drying;
• finishing the surface with the finishing composition of the putty, drying, grinding;
• thorough cleaning of the surface of the walls and the entire room from dust;
• finishing primer of walls for final coating.

Knowing how to make a drywall wall, any developer can handle this task on their own. It is only necessary to use the information received here correctly.

At the same time, invited experts will perform this work at a price of 600 to 800 rubles per square meter. However, in any case - good luck to you!

Smooth and beautiful walls give the room a modern look of the European level. But in order to achieve good results, you need to make a lot of effort. Without the involvement of professionals, it is very difficult to carry out the process of leveling the ceiling and walls. Fortunately, modern industry provides high-quality material - drywall, with which you can get comfortable and even surfaces for repairs, ready for any type of finish. At the same time, you can carry out such repairs yourself.

Drywall installation rules: walls, ceiling. The effectiveness of the cladding of the GKL room

Drywall is one of the most favored building materials by both hobbyists and professional craftsmen. It has been present on any construction site for more than one century, since immediately after its creation (back in the 19th century) it began to be used as a cladding for walls (as a finishing material), ceiling and partitions.

The material is used not only for cladding, on which it then remains only to apply wallpaper, whitewash or paint, also drywall can act as a leveler for the ceiling and walls. So, for example, with the help of GKL and a frame, you can level the wall in the bathroom or in the kitchen, tiles are well attached to it.

The material practically does not crumble, so after the installation work there will be no special measures to clean the working surface, which will save not only your time, but also physical strength. One of the main advantages of drywall sheets is their cost, this material is much cheaper than other building materials. Another important plus is the large size of the products.

The length of one GKL is on average 250 centimeters, and the width is 120 centimeters. As a result, when mounting walls, ceilings or partitions with plasterboard, you can avoid a huge number of joints, respectively, and seams between sheets. Therefore, after installation, you do not need to carry out lengthy and thorough work on leveling the finished surface and grouting the joints on the walls and ceiling.

Those who at least once in their life have faced the need to carry out repair work in the house, for sure, know that certain works that are implied during the repair are much more efficient, more profitable and faster to do it yourself. Of course, this does not apply to such types of work as the re-equipment of the heating system or the installation of a stretch ceiling.

However, if you intend to hire workers to lay the floor or hang wallpaper, think carefully about trying to solve the problem yourself. Most likely, you will come to this conclusion after you make sure that there is practically no difficulty in this process.

In addition to finishing works, installation of adhesive, false and suspended ceilings, as well as their painting or whitewashing, can be carried out. It is quite possible to build light partitions between separate rooms on your own.

Rules for installing drywall on walls and ceilings: how to properly sheathe ceilings and walls of plasterboard, what materials will be required for this, what problems may arise during installation work?

If you want to sheathe the ceiling and walls with drywall, you first need to make a profile frame. This can be done with the help of GKL, which is mounted to the partition frame with a screwdriver and, of course, self-tapping screws. All this is sold in hardware stores. Therefore, in order not to be disappointed later in the amount spent on materials, as well as in the quality of the work performed, evaluate your potential ability to carry out repair work, strength and try to finish the ceiling and walls with plasterboard yourself.

The workflow must begin with the walls and end with the ceiling. After that, in exactly the same sequence, you can begin the main repair work on the cladding of the GKL.

The preparatory stage begins with the markup. At the same time, you need to adhere to the basic rules that allow you to achieve high results in your work.

Regardless of how flat the surface of the ceiling and walls in the room is, before starting the installation work, you should carefully measure everything again and install the necessary elements at the checked corners, horizontals and verticals.

Rules for installing drywall on walls, ceilings: highlights

1. Marking the walls for mounting the frame for drywall.

Using a spirit level, make sure that there are no deviations on the ceiling and walls. Carefully check all joints on the walls. Identified deviations should be fixed and eliminated when marking.

During alignment, you will be able to remove any distortions and avoid unexpected nuances when cladding walls with plasterboard sheets. At this stage, you can begin to install the base profile under the drywall.

First of all, it is necessary to mount the guide profiles according to the pre-applied markings. You need to install two guide profiles for each wall - one on the floor and the other on top.

The ceiling will require four profiles, which must be mounted under the ceiling above each wall. If there is a need to achieve a vertical, horizontal or right angle, it is recommended to place any rigid material of the required thickness under the guide profile. Guides that are designed for walls must be mounted on the floor so that the open part is at the top. On the ceiling, the guides are installed with the open part down.

The gap between the walls and the guides should be minimal, and the resulting area should correspond to the vertical. The gap between the base of the ceiling and the guide profile should not exceed ten centimeters.

1. Fastening and installation of the main frame profile.

To fix the guides, you will need self-tapping screws and dowels. The process is carried out in steps of 40 to 50 centimeters. After that, apply vertical lines on the wall in steps of 60 centimeters, on which fix the hangers with self-tapping screws and dowels.

The mounting step of the suspensions should correspond to a distance of 40-50 centimeters. Such suspensions will ensure the rigidity of not only the profile frame, but the entire structure. Now you can start installing the main profile, for this you need to insert the ends of the slats into the guides and attach them with screws to the slat, guides and hangers. In the process of work, experts recommend clearly monitoring the verticality of the profile strips using the building level.

When the installation work of the wall frame is completed, you can proceed to install the frame on the ceiling. The work is carried out in exactly the same sequence as when installing the frame on the walls, the only difference is that the guides must be attached not to the wall, but to the wall frame. In addition, to ensure the ceiling structure, it is necessary to supplement the frame with perpendicular inserts of the main profile.

Rules for installing drywall on walls and ceilings: photo and video

Having completed the process of forming the profile frame system, you can proceed to the cladding of the ceiling and walls of the plasterboard. Before you start sheathing the surfaces in the room, it is advised to first draw a project for the location of the sheets and their segments on the ceiling and walls. Thanks to this, you will be able to prepare plasterboard sheets of the required size, which will greatly simplify the sheathing work.

To ensure the reliability of the entire structure, the sheathing process should be carried out according to certain rules:

• The joints of the GKL should be exactly on the axis of the profile strips. One bar should be behind the sheet in the center.

• The process of cutting sheets is carried out along pre-planned lines. For cutting, a sharp clerical knife is used, you need to make a cut to a depth of 2-3 millimeters. The prepared drywall sheet must be placed on the table, so that the incision is located closer to the edge. Gently press down on the cut with your hand and break it. Then, with a utility knife, cut the cardboard on the other side.

• To cover the GKL ceiling, you need to purchase a special ceiling drywall, with a small margin (10-20 percent of the total).

• To correctly calculate the required amount of drywall, add the total surface area of ​​the ceiling and walls separately.

Plasterboard sheets are quite large and heavy, so it is very difficult to cope with the task on your own. Ceiling drywall is attached with additional strips to the transverse across the entire width. On this note, the wall and ceiling cladding ends. And the next process is finishing. To properly complete the finish, you must purchase a special adhesive mesh. The grid is superimposed on the joints of the sheets and carefully puttied. Wait until the putty dries well, and you can start painting the walls.

As you can see, the rules for installing drywall on walls and ceilings are quite simple, and the process itself can be completed without the involvement of specialists, so you can significantly save your family budget. We hope that our advice, tips from experts, videos and photos have helped you, and you will cope with your task without any problems.