How to properly arrange the ridges on the site. Garden beds: types and choice of location

The garden bed is the basis of the garden, the harvest, the effort and time spent on processing and agricultural technology for growing crops depend on its laying. When thinking about how to arrange the beds on the site correctly and conveniently, it is important to take into account a set of factors: location and topography, climate, soil features, cardinal points and a number of other factors. Study the theoretical aspects in advance to avoid problems in practice and increase the yield of each hectare.

Basic rules for creating beds

For optimization garden work Before starting field work, you must:

• determine the types of vegetables to be grown, as well as their quantity;
• using special tables to calculate the required area;
• draw up a plan of the site and the location of the beds on it.

The right beds are functional and beautiful

Such a simple preparation will help to avoid unnecessary labor costs and, perhaps, will allow you to allocate a place for recreation on the territory, or fruit crops.

Area and location of the site

To determine the required area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden, first of all, decide whether you will grow vegetables only for the family, or also for sale. Kurdyumov N.I., the author of the book "Encyclopedia of a smart summer resident", claims that a family of five people will have enough 90 square meters of landings, without taking into account the paths between them. He uses ridges 0.5 m wide with wide passages of 1 m, that is, the area of ​​​​the occupied site is about 4 acres.

It is not necessary to rely on other people's advice. Using special tables, calculate the annual need for vegetables per family, as well as the required area for their cultivation. To save space as well as increase yields, grow crops such as cucumbers, tomatoes, beans and the like on a trellis, or tie them up.

Table of the needs of vegetables and the area of ​​​​their cultivation

Having calculated the size of the garden, proceed to its location on the plan. Consider here:

• grow vegetables on the south side of the cottage, there is more sunlight and the earth warms up better;
• trees and buildings should not obscure the garden, place them on the north side of it;
• the relief of the allotment should be as even as possible, if this cannot be achieved, take care of drainage grooves in low-lying places, or consider a terraced garden.

An example of a site layout on paper

The shape of the allotment for growing vegetables can be any, do not go in cycles in standard rectangles. However, keep in mind that when processing it is undesirable to walk between plantings, so do not make the beds too large. Ideally, if standing on the path, you can process the plantings across the entire width, or at least more than half.

If the backyard area is small, consider high, vertical or multi-level landings. They are especially popular for growing strawberries, strawberries, herbs. Keep in mind that it is better to make vertical structures with perennials mobile in order to be able to hide them for the winter, otherwise the vegetables may freeze.

Non-standard multi-level beds

Rules and features of the layout

A serious approach to growing vegetables requires a little preparation and competent planning of beds in the garden and their location.

1. Prepare a separate notebook where you will write down how to distribute the beds on the site.
2. Enter the cottage plan into the notebook, mark the location of the ridges on it.
3. Number the ridges.
4. On a blank sheet, write the year of sowing and the numbering of the islets with the crops that you will grow.

Such a notebook and diagram will serve long years, keeping important information for the gardener. It helps to navigate between crops, adhere to sevosmen and correctly select neighboring plants, which is extremely important even for a small area. After all, non-observance of crop rotation of vegetables and ignoring their compatibility threatens with soil depletion and a significant reduction in yield.

For the convenience of the seed shift, conditionally divide the territory into four zones, where you will grow crops with different requirements for soil nutrition, as well as perennials.

• Very demanding - cabbage, cucumbers, pumpkin, potatoes, garlic.
• Moderately demanding - onions, carrots, beets, lettuce, spinach, kohlrabi, radishes, peppers, potatoes, melons.
• Undemanding - the legume family.
• Perennials - strawberries, wild strawberries, rhubarb, perennial herbs.

Proper layout facilitates crop rotation

When planning your garden layout, be sure to mark the location of the compost heap. If you do not want to spoil the appearance of the landscape, put a composter. The remains of plants and other organic matter, stacked here, are processed better than in a regular pile. To enhance the effect of decay, use special bacteriological additives.

The layout of the cottage on the slope

The location of the cottage on the slope is not an obstacle to growing horticultural crops. Good advice experts will facilitate this process:

• Position the beds across the slope to reduce erosion.
• On a slope up to 50, place vegetables in its upper part. Plant shrubs at the bottom or make high beds, with excessive soil moisture there.
• On a slope with a steepness above 5.10, equip terraces on which you already place plantings. The recommended ratio of their length and width in this arrangement is 4:1 or 5:1.
• On a slope steeper than 70, make ditches up to 20 cm deep in the middle of the garden and at a distance of 1 m from the edge of the terrace. This will further protect the soil from erosion.

Terraced vegetable garden

Creation of new beds

Raised or recessed fenced plantings are very popular with modern gardeners. They are easier to process, you can use special earthen mixtures with the right composition, it is easier to calculate the required amount of fertilizer, and a fine mesh at the bottom will protect you from rodents. Make these beds "warm" and harvest two crops a year, because vegetables will ripen a couple of weeks faster.

If you plan the location of the garden on an unplowed virgin land, use one of the methods:

1. Remove the layer of sod, but don't throw it away, chop it up and compost it. Dig up the bare earth, if possible, add new fertile soil. Reinforce the edges with ribs.
2. Less time-consuming method: Dig up a vegetable garden and plant it with potatoes. The number of weeds will decrease significantly, but do not rely on bountiful harvest in the first year.
3. Make raised beds: dig a place for a vegetable garden or just trample (mow) the grass. Equip the sides of the desired height. Put branches, thick stems of plants, cardboard, paper at the bottom, cover with quickly distilled organic matter and soil. In dry climatic conditions, such ridges are best deepened into the ground.

Creating raised "warm" beds

There is a wide variety of techniques for arranging beds:

• high - very popular with American farmers;
• hillock;
• according to the Mitlider method;
• multi-tiered and others.

In each case, be sure to put bumpers around the edges, this prevents the soil from spreading and prevents weeds from spreading to them from the paths. For edging, get ready-made garden borders or use any available materials:

• tree, pre-treat it with an antiseptic;
• concrete;
• plastic;
• metal;
• brick;
• slate.

Be sure to follow the order of planting the beds marked on your layout plan. To save space and increase yield, plant new plants in the areas vacated after the collection of predecessors. This way you can grow not only vegetables with a short growing season, but also, for example, potatoes, if you dig them up young.

Bed parameters - a little geometry and mathematics

Professional gardeners are advised to abandon the traditional continuous planting of land in favor of separate rather narrow beds with wide paths. It is claimed that the yield of crops in such a garden is higher, because, thanks to a well-thought-out arrangement, the illumination of each plant is significantly increased. In addition, properly selected planting parameters make it easier to care for them.

Comfortable wide aisles are a must

How to calculate the optimal width

The recommended optimal width of the beds in the garden differs in different sources. The only thing that all farmers agree on is that it must be such that it is easy to process vegetables without entering the soil.

Thus, the width of the last strip should not exceed 1 m. Between plantings, it is necessary to have passages with an optimal width of 90-100 cm. You should not make a distance between the beds, because the sprawling tops of plants will significantly reduce this area.

Also popular narrow beds by Mitlider. This American farmer developed the "ideal garden" system, which alternates 45 cm wide beds with 90 cm aisles. Plants planted in this way receive maximum sunlight and are well ventilated. These factors, together with balanced nutrition, guarantee a high yield even in the absence of good crops. weather conditions.

Location in greenhouses

What should be the ideal length

Focus more attention not on the length, but on the fact that all the tapes are the same size, this will greatly simplify the care of crops. However, some lovers ignore this point, creating from landings different lengths whole compositions, thus ennobling the design of the site.

Original approach to form

What height to choose

The height depends on the climatic conditions and the characteristics of the soil on the site. On light sandy loamy soil, you should not raise the plantings, especially if the climate is dry. High beds warm up better, but also dry out faster, so they will require frequent watering. In such conditions, make a “warm” bed deep, not raised.

heavy clay soils, especially in places that are often flooded with water, or with a close occurrence of groundwater, need raised structures. The optimal height for processing is 40 cm, but sometimes they are made even higher - 60-70 cm.

On small plots, it is possible to place a vegetable garden on different levels. At the same time, make the lowest landings on the south side, gradually increasing their height, so the plants will not shade each other.

Raised beds are easy to handle

Raised beds have a number of advantages:

• convenient watering;
• water does not stagnate;
• hilling is not necessary;
• if mulched, weeding is not needed;
• no need to dig, it is enough to loosen by 7 - 10 cm;
• early planting of vegetables is possible;
• easy to do crop rotation;
• when planting, it is unnecessary to fertilize the hole;
• with the smart use of organic matter, there is no need for inorganic fertilizers;
• can be used forever.

The location of the beds relative to the cardinal points

Experts recommend drawing up a diagram of the beds in the garden, taking into account the characteristics of the site, the climatic factor and orientation to the cardinal points. Given the latter, many often violate the standard arrangement along or across the site, replacing it with an oblique or diagonal placement of beds in relation to the sun. The unfamiliarity and aesthetic imperfection of such an arrangement is compensated by a number of advantages.

What gives an accurate calculation

The correct orientation of landings contributes to:

• reduction in the number of diseased and underdeveloped plants;
• uniform illumination of crops;
• reducing the frequency of watering;
• increase in productivity by 10-15%;
• reduction of the ripening time of some crops by 3-5 days.

Orientation from north to south with a predominance of cloudy days

In addition, some gardeners claim that vegetables grown in compliance with right direction plantings are better stored.

Planning features for different regions

So, the inhabitants of the northern and central regions, where there is less sunlight and more cloudy days, as well as with insufficient heat and excess moisture, it is advised to orient plantings from north to south. Plants planted in this way will not shade each other.

Vegetable gardens in the southern hot and dry regions need beds oriented from west to east. With such a planting, crops shade the ground between the rows, respectively, it dries less, in addition, it decreases Negative influence overheated soil. Farmers' experiences show that in conditions of lack of rainfall, the yield of corn sown in this way was 20-25% more than that which grew in rows from north to south.

The location of the beds on the cardinal points is not always justified. The presence of strong constant winds in the region or the location of the site at an angle significantly correct this scheme. So, the negative effect of dry winds on plants is compensated by planting across the direction air currents. In this case, plantings dry out less and retain more carbon dioxide, which contributes to photosynthesis. Ridges on an uneven area are made only across the slope.

Mitlider layout

Paths between beds

The width of the paths between the beds is described above (at least 90 cm), but it is important not only to correctly calculate the parameters of this zone, but also to equip the passages to exclude weeds. It can be both capital paths and temporary flooring. Such floorings not only prevent the growth of weeds, but also make the work of the gardener more convenient.

What to make garden paths

What to put between the beds so that the grass does not grow:

• wide boards or flooring from narrow boards, knocked down for strength in one line;
• fiberboard sheets;
• ruberoid;
• mulch from sawdust, hay, grass from the lawn. It is important to remember that fresh sawdust oxidizes the soil;
• a mound of pebbles, rubble, broken bricks - such paths between the beds are very decorative and decorate the landscape;
• old linoleum;
• carton boxes.

Tree cuts

If the location of the landings does not change and the paths always remain in place, it makes sense to make capital paths. Most reliable coverage between the weed beds - concrete. concrete walkways can be monolithic, under an artificial stone or under a tile.

You can also lay out the tracks with tiles and not only concrete. Looks very nice rubber tile in addition, it does not slip, which makes the movement of the summer resident safe.

Passages decorated with tree cuts look spectacular, but grass will still grow between the cuts if the recommendations below are not followed.

capital approach

How to prevent weeds from sprouting

This method is suitable for the design of permanent passages, that is, for those who do not plan to change the location of the beds.

How to make paths between beds so that weeds do not grow:

1. Having worked out a clear plan of the garden, mark the passages.
2. Take off in the aisles upper layer soil. If the beds are raised or with high curbs, you can not remove.
3. Lay cardboard, layers of paper, rags, black film for beds or geotextiles - a special material from grass.
4. Cover with sand or sawdust.
5. From above, make a hard and rain-resistant coating, for example, fill it with pebbles or broken bricks.

Beds-hills, located taking into account a complex of factors

As a result, capital passages will be obtained, on which nothing will grow. In the case of redevelopment, all this must be removed and the passages filled with fertile soil.

To figure out how to place the beds on the site and how to close the paths from weeds, you do not have to spend a lot of time. Consider the climatic conditions of the region, the cardinal points, the features of the soil and relief, as well as the developments of famous farmers, and as a result, collect good crops without wasting effort, energy and time for processing.

Before choosing a place for garden beds, it is worth analyzing the location of all buildings and structures that are or are planned to be built on the site. Because it depends on them temperature regime, lighting, wind protection and other factors that affect the full growth of garden crops. In the conditions of the plots small size it is important to take into account not only large objects on your territory, but also on neighboring plots. We will tell in the article about planning a garden, we will give advice to novice gardeners and summer residents.

Choosing a place for garden beds

Often, gardeners allocate for the garden the area that remains after the placement of all structures. But the quality of the crop must be taken care of long before planting and choose appropriate place. It should be the most illuminated, protected from the wind, supplied with watering. These issues need to be addressed in parallel with the planning and development of the territory.

Start by orienting the site to the cardinal points. This depends on the lighting. For the garden, choose the sunniest place. According to the rules of architectural development, buildings and structures are located so that the shadow from them occupies the minimum area of ​​the site. Fortunately, if the house is on the north side, then the shadow from it moves from the northwest to the northeast, and the south side is lit from dawn to dusk. In this case, the garden can be located in the southwest, south, and southeast direction.

The location of the water source for irrigation is also important. If it is not possible to build a well or well near the garden, then it is better to provide a water storage device. Its volume depends on the area of ​​all plantations that require irrigation. In addition, the tank serves not only to collect irrigation water, but also to regulate the temperature, which should be +18 0 - 25 0. This is especially true if the source is deep artesian well with cold water.

Garden sizes and garden beds

The area of ​​the garden is determined by the number of vegetables that need to be grown. In small areas, 500 - 700 m 2 is most often allocated. An example of calculating the size of a garden, taking into account the range of vegetables grown, is shown in the table:

Name of culture	Area, m2
Potato	500 — 700
Cabbage	40 -60
cucumbers	50
Tomatoes, eggplant peppers	80
Melons (zucchini, squash, pumpkins, watermelons, melons)	60 — 70
Onion garlic	25
Root vegetables (carrots, beets, celery, parsley, radish, parsnips)	50

The size of the garden may vary depending on the total area of ​​​​the site and the conditions suitable for growing vegetables. In addition, the direction of landings along the cardinal points is important. The beds are arranged so that tall plants did not shade the low ones. For this reason, the row is oriented strictly from north to south or from southwest to northeast, then the plants receive the maximum amount of light and heat.

This favorably affects the quality of the crop, because chlorophyll, sucrose, starch and other complex organic substances are synthesized in vegetables using solar energy. Therefore, the distance between plantings should be sufficient so that there is no competition for nutrients.

On the east side of the garden, plant the most high cultures, for example, cucumbers on trellises, tall asparagus beans. Towards the west, the size of the plants decreases. In the final row, place undersized root vegetables, such as carrots.

How to determine the width, depth and height of the beds

Basic soil preparation is carried out to a depth of 25 - 30 cm (per shovel bayonet). It is this layer of fertile soil that most people need vegetable crops. Traditional farming offers an annual digging of the land with the application of mineral fertilizers. This means that these substances must be distributed over the surface of the beds, and then evenly mixed with the soil to the full depth.

For such work, it is important to determine the convenient width of each row. Usually they form a ruler from 30 cm to 1 m, this makes it possible to approach the garden from all sides and greatly facilitates plant care and harvesting.

Tip #1 Paths of 30 - 40 cm are left between the rows, this width is enough for the free movement of one person.

Sometimes they form raised or bulk beds. This method is practiced by supporters of organic farming. They arrange boxes and fill them with soil or organic debris. With the help of effective microorganisms, such as "Emochek", this substrate quickly turns into fertile humus.

If it is not possible to place all the beds in one place, a part can be arranged in the form of an ornamental garden. The plot allotted for this purpose is planned as a flower garden, only filled with vegetables. Paths between cultures are made in the form of figured paving. Such a garden looks elegant at any time of the year, even when it is empty.

The extent to which plants get along with each other can be judged by their attitude to growing conditions. Most vegetable crops prefer a sunny, wind-sheltered location and light, neutral soil. But, each plant requires nutrients for which it fights, sometimes to the detriment of its neighbors. In addition, as a result of biosynthesis, waste products are released, which favorably affect some plants and are poisonous to others.

Tip #2 It is important to take into account the timing of the ripening of crops, while the late-ripening and gaining strength, the early ones ripen and make room for those that continue to grow.

Compatibility of garden crops is indicated in the table:

Name of culture	Compatible
Carrot	Green onions, radishes, peas, beans, tomatoes, parsley, spinach, marjoram
Potato	Cabbage, eggplant, onion, spinach, peas, garlic, horseradish
tomatoes	Asparagus, basil, carrot, spinach, savory, dill, watercress
Beet	White cabbage, cauliflower, tomatoes, pumpkin
cucumbers	Dill, peas
Cabbage	Tomatoes, celery
Radish	Head lettuce, leaf lettuce, spinach, kohlrabi
Brocolli	Parsley, head lettuce
Brussels sprouts	Watercress - lettuce, peas, radish

When planning the planting of vegetables, you can divide the garden into four conditional sectors:

• in the first place crops that require a lot of nutrients - cabbage, cucumbers, pumpkin, garlic. Before planting, organic fertilizers are applied in the form of slurry and dolomite flour;
• in the second, vegetables with less organic needs are planted, compost is enough for them. These are carrots, beets, kohlrabi, radishes, melon peppers.
• the third is reserved for plants that do not need additional fertilizers because they themselves enrich the soil with nitrogen. These are legumes - peas, beans.
• in the fourth, perennials are grown - asparagus, rhubarb, garden strawberries.

Joint neighborhood helps plants fight pests. When carrots ripen in the lower tier, onions can be “attached” to it, which has a superficial root crop. In such an alliance, plants protect each other from onion and carrot flies. Some gardeners practice planting patterns, combining crops according to ripening dates:

• 1st row - onion + radish (seeds);
• 2nd and 3rd rows - carrots;
• 4th and 5th rows - parsley.

Radishes ripen first, followed by onions. When they are harvested, carrots and parsley grow to take their place. There is a combination of crops that increase the yield of each other. Sow dill between the rows of cucumbers and along the perimeter of the garden. The harvest of greens will increase significantly. But there are a number garden plants, which are highly incompatible.

Incompatible plants and vegetables

Some plants require so much nutrition that no other crops can compete with them. For example, sunflower and corn can be compared with shrubs in terms of their nutritional requirements. medium size. They leave no chance for weaker plants to survive. Therefore, they are planted separately, or placed around the perimeter of the garden, but so that they do not shade light-loving crops.

• Sometimes corn is used as a support for cucumbers, but at the same time greens are located at a distance of 30 - 50 cm from powerful corn stalks.
• Potatoes prefer to be surrounded by their own kind and do not tolerate other types of plants. Especially actively displaces cucumbers, this is one of the unsuccessful neighborhoods.
• Placing carrots and beets in close proximity is also not a good idea. At the same time of growth and maturation, they compete with each other for food and moisture.
• Tomatoes and cabbage are not compatible.
• The neighborhood of legumes with onions and garlic is undesirable.
• Cabbage is not planted with carrots, tomatoes, parsley.

Rotation of crops in garden beds

The plant takes useful substances from the soil, and returns the products of its vital activity, that is, they deplete the earth. This process occurs at different soil levels. Therefore, each year the crops are changed to reduce the one-sided use of the soil. In the place where powerful root crops grew, plants with superficial roots are planted. And the culture is returned to its original place no earlier than after 3-4 years.

The most common changes are:

• cabbage, pumpkin, zucchini, beans, beets, carrots, dill are appropriate after tomatoes and potatoes;
• cucumbers, zucchini, squash change cabbage, radish, beets, onions, garlic, tomatoes, potatoes;
• garlic, onions, tomatoes, potatoes are best planted after carrots, parsley, celery.

Gardeners' mistakes when planning a site

Mistake #1. Placement of the garden without regard to the environment.

Often large structures obscure plantings. This would not have happened if the garden was located on a site that is not shaded by tall objects.

Mistake #2. Not correct placement crops in height.

Affects the quality of the crop if large plants cast a shadow on smaller ones.

Mistake #3. Neglect of the water storage.

Owners of small plots feel sorry for the place for the tank. It can be placed in the economic zone by burying it in the ground. A concrete ring and a manhole cover come to the surface. But the garden and garden will always be provided the right amount water at the optimum temperature for irrigation.

Rubric "Questions and answers"

Question number 1. I chose the brightest place between the house and the fence for the garden, but the harvest is very modest and it is clear that this place is not suitable for vegetables, although the land is good. What could it be?

Fertility and lighting will not help if the garden is located in a wind tunnel, that is, in a draft. And this is true if the distance from the house to the fence does not meet building standards. Try moving the garden to another location that is sheltered from the wind.

Question number 2. There is not such a large area on our site that would accommodate one big garden. What can be done in this case?

Plant each type of plant separately. This way you can avoid the unfortunate neighborhood of cultures and achieve decorative originality.

A bed of cabbage planted with annuals will look like a flower garden.

Question number 3. If you follow the advice on placing the garden in the brightest place, it turns out that we have it right at the entrance. Here I want to plant something beautiful. How to be in such a situation?

We need to make a decorative garden. Plan the form like a flower garden and combine vegetables and ornamental plants in it.

Question number 4. Is it possible to plant tomatoes next to potatoes?

Both cultures are nightshade, they have common pests and diseases. It is better to avoid such a neighborhood.

Question number 5. What is better to plant in the place where corn was last year?

Green manure, plants that restore the soil after a powerful depletion. You can sow clover, rye, mustard.

The beds - such a simple summer cottage - also need our close attention. Indeed, not only the yield of garden crops, but also the appearance of the site where we not only work, but also rest, depends on their location, height, filling and shape. And we, of course, would like to see our country oasis beautiful and well-groomed.

The beds should be located from north to south: this way the soil warms up better, and vegetable crops get more sun. If your site is located on a gentle slope, build beds across it, and if the slope is already very steep, organize terraces (also across) and build beds there. So you can avoid washing out the soil with flood waters and rains. The material will tell the details of bringing the idea to life.

raised bed
To get an early and more abundant harvest (and just for beauty), it makes sense to do.

To do this, dig a hole 40 cm deep in the place you have chosen, and set the selected land aside for now. Choose the length of the pit arbitrarily, but make the width 1-1.2 m, so that later it will be convenient for you to take care of the plants. Along the perimeter of the pit, install a frame made of stones, bricks, logs or other material to a height of 40-50 cm. Cover it from the inside with plastic wrap, and put a steel wire mesh on the bottom of the pit (this will protect the crop from harmful ones).

Pour the first layer of long-decomposing organic material: cuttings of boards, shavings, fabric ( not synthetic!), branches, paper, cardboard and so on. Fill the garden bed with these “utilities” by about 1/3, sprinkle a little with earth and spill well with water. Next, fill the bed to the top with soil mixed with manure, compost, mineral fertilizers and rinse again with water. That's all wisdom. Just keep in mind that next year the earth will settle by 15-20 cm and the top layer will need to be updated, so prepare fertile soil in advance.

See also the material about raised or high beds:

How to arrange beds in a small area

If you have small plot, but you want to organize as many beds as possible, in addition to the usual location, use any horizontal surfaces and hanging structures.

You can combine a recreation area with decoratively designed beds using multi-tiered, spiral structures and other options.

When arranging the beds, do not forget that its surface must be strictly horizontal: in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture in an overestimated place and waterlogging - in an underestimated one.

Read more about the garden on a small plot:

Features of tillage in the beds

The earth in the beds is usually dug up twice (in the spring and), introducing the necessary mineral and. When digging in the fall, it is better to leave the ground lumpy in order to keep as much moisture as possible on the beds. In addition, with such digging, the larvae and eggs of soil pests almost completely freeze out. You can replace autumn digging: cover the soil with a thick layer of peat, sawdust, rotted compost and more. In the spring, remove the unrotted layer with a rake and dig up the ground. Digging on a spade bayonet for beds with vegetables or flowers is enough. And if the soils in your area are light and crumbly, spring digging can be replaced by loosening.

How to make beautiful borders for beds

Of course, not all summer residents are concerned beautiful design borders for beds. Many use dividing paths, some simply knock down boards with a square or perimeter, install these structures on horizontal surface. But we want to arrange everything beautifully, don't we? Therefore, I present to you a few photos, where you can clearly see how beautifully you can decorate the sides of the beds with simple improvised or purchased material.

Ready-made plastic bumpers bought at the store are used here.





The sides of these beds are lined with white brick.

Here the sides are lined with paving stones.

This bed is decorated with colored slate sides.

On these raised beds, the sides are made from ordinary plastic boxes. There are doubts about their strength, but, no doubt, the beds look original))

To decorate the sides of the beds, you can use any material at hand: boards, large stones, bricks, cut pieces of slate, vine,

This article discusses beds for the lazy: photos of the easiest structures to manufacture for those who want to get a neat garden with a minimum of effort, the most common materials and technologies for creating structures based on them. The reader will learn how to combine vegetable crops in one garden and prepare the soil for planting cucumbers. The article contains practical advice for beginner gardeners.

Design right beds in the garden will be a solution to many problems and open up new opportunities for the owner suburban area:

• protection against soil erosion in the garden when falling out a large number precipitation or watering plants. The bed borders will keep the nutrient soil in place, preventing it from washing out onto the paths. In addition, the passages between the structures themselves will remain clean, no dirty puddles and streaks;

• the possibility of forming the basis for the creation of a temporary greenhouse for the spring. By installing high sides as fences, inside the structure you can organize a multi-layered garden bed, which can be used as a greenhouse. To do this, it is enough to install special arcs and stretch the film. The result is a neat greenhouse house;
• improving the appearance of the garden due to orderly and even plantings with a beautiful frame;
• creating borders that prevent the spread of weeds.

Making your own beds from boards and other materials allows you to clearly limit the landing area, so weeds and harmful plants do not have the opportunity to spread widely. If the garden fence is dug in to a great depth, the level of protection increases and perennial weeds that are unable to overcome this barrier can no longer penetrate into the garden bed.

Note! With the help of beds with well-buried fences, the spread of plants such as reeds and couch grass is effectively blocked. Their root system is capable of covering long distances underground, if it is not limited.

Photos of interesting designs of beds, recommendations for their creation. Tips for designing unusual landscape design on the site.

The best place is the area where the sun is present throughout the day. It is allowed to install beds where the shadow is present in the morning or in the afternoon. If the proposed construction zone is dark throughout the day, you should not use this place for arranging a garden.

How best to make beds in the garden: choosing the optimal design

The choice of the design of the beds is carried out at an early stage of planning, when a place for the garden has already been selected.

Each type of beds has certain advantages:

• raised or - the most efficient designs that are best suited for growing vegetable crops. Construction Materials to create them they are not expensive, while the soil does not need to be dug up. The width and height of the structures determine how much effort and time it will take to build them. Most often, summer residents prefer wooden beds made of planks. On the network you can find photos bulk beds with their own hands, such structures do not have a fence. They are also categorized as elevated structures;

• container beds - will be beneficial in cases where the space of the site is limited. For organizing such beds, pots of small, large and medium sizes are suitable. Garlic, peppers, lettuce and greens feel especially good in containers. Mobility is another advantage of container beds, which, if desired, can be rearranged to any place;
• beds in open ground- the oldest way of growing crops that are planted directly in the ground. Under such conditions, it is more difficult to obtain good harvest, therefore, the technology of joint planting of vegetables in the garden is often used.

Useful advice! If it is planned to plant crops in open ground, it is recommended to determine the quality of the soil, fertilize it and check the compatibility of vegetables in the garden according to the table.

How to make beds from boards with your own hands: useful tips

Most often, raised beds are made of wood. This material in comparison with others is considered the most practical and environmentally friendly. Similar designs look very aesthetically pleasing in the photo. Do-it-yourself beds from boards have other advantages:

• a simple maintenance system that involves easy weeding, harvesting and watering plants;
• the possibility of growing vegetable crops even where the soil is completely unsuitable for these purposes. On the basis of the boards, a frame is made, which is subsequently filled with fertile soil bought in a store, so there is no connection to the quality of the earth and its composition. Thanks to this, plants can be grown even in areas with a rocky surface;

• box structures allow you to keep the soil inside the beds. In addition, the presence of sides simplifies the process of mounting arcs to form a greenhouse. It is much easier to fix these elements on the fence than to dig them into the soil;
• even without knowing how to properly make beds in the garden, any summer resident will cope with the manufacture of wooden structures-boxes. The boards are easy to process, and the construction and assembly of the frame does not require an expensive tool;
• there is no chance that plants planted near the sides will get burned in the summer heat. Wood, unlike metal, is not prone to overheating.

Note! The ecological purity of the material allows you not to worry that harmful substances. Wood is much safer than asbestos-cement sheets (slate). The exception is boards treated chemicals designed to double the life of the material.

Making practical beds from boards: how to make the right choice of material

Summer residents most often create wooden structures on the basis of blanks that are found on the farm. For the manufacture of beds, timber, round timber, slab, lining can be used.

When it comes to purchasing boards in a store, you should pay special attention to the type of wood from which they are made:

• a board made of ash or oak will last a very long time. Although the cost of such products is quite high;
• pine remains the most favorable in terms of price and processing. But this type of wood is highly susceptible to decay while in the ground, so its service life is short. Due to impregnations and antiseptic agents, the life of a pine tree can be extended for a couple of years;
• boards made of cedar and larch wood are considered the most suitable material for making boxes. Larch has a natural impregnation with resin, thanks to which the product will retain its novelty for many years without the use of additional impregnations. Cedar wood is characterized by a lower resin content, but it is not inferior to larch in terms of durability and at the same time has an affordable price;

• boards made on the basis of acacia feel good in the ground. It is worth noting that this type of wood is durable and has a solid structure, so the process of processing it will be more difficult. To work with acacia, you need a powerful electric tool.

Useful advice! It is not recommended to save on the quality of the material. Boards made of bad wood are prone to rapid decay. After a few years, holes will appear on the fences of the beds, through which fertile soil will be washed out during rains and watering plants.

Making beds from boards with your own hands: photos, dimensions of structures

The beds-boxes have rectangular shape and made from boards. The simplest design does not require special knowledge and skills, so any novice summer resident will cope with its manufacture. The main thing at the same time is to correctly calculate the dimensions of the boxes.

• height- many summer residents strive to create the highest possible sides. However, this approach is erroneous if it is not planned to build a warm bed for cucumbers or other types of crops, where fence heights of up to 0.7 m are welcome. similar structures requires laying a multi-layer insulation. For ordinary beds, such high fences are not required, it is enough to limit yourself to 0.15-0.2 m. In addition, wood is susceptible to deformation changes under the influence of moisture, so there is a risk that over time high fences swell and lose their attractive shape;

• width- experienced summer residents recommend choosing a width equal to half the height of the person who will take care of the beds. Most often, this parameter is in the range of 0.9-1.2 m, because in the process of work, a person should be able to reach the middle of the structure from the side of the side rail;
• length- this parameter is practically unlimited. Although unnecessarily long structures reduce the level of rigidity of the side rails, it is therefore recommended to choose a length in the range of 4-6 m.

Useful advice! When choosing dimensional parameters for wooden beds it should be taken into account that between them it is necessary to organize passages with a width of 0.4-0.6 m. Only after that is the layout of the structures on the site considered.

Creating mixed plantings of vegetables in the garden: photo examples and optimal schemes

The method of combining cultures in practice is very effective if the companion plants are chosen well. Therefore, site owners calculate according to a special table of the neighborhood of vegetables in the beds before planting. Some types of vegetables have a depressing effect on each other, others can improve the growth and development of neighbors, provide them with protection from pests.

The correct neighborhood of vegetables in the beds: compatibility table

Many gardeners note that due to the proximity of beans as a compaction for the beds where potatoes are grown, the amount colorado potato beetle. Marigolds effectively protect cabbage from white butterflies. Despite this, a certain balance must be maintained. After all, an excessive amount of marigolds in the garden can drown out the growth of cabbage.

Table of neighboring vegetables in the garden, creating a successful tandem:

The name of the vegetable crop	Plants for a successful combination
strawberries	beans, spinach, marigolds, garlic, lettuce
kohlrabi	cucumber, lettuce, onion, beetroot
peas	carrot, corn, cucumber, calendula, eggplant
onion	tomato, celery, beetroot, savory, carrot
beans	potato, cucumber, tomato, strawberry, eggplant
cucumber	radish, pepper, peas, cabbage, beans
carrot	lettuce, onion, sage, tomato, peas
salad	strawberry, cucumber, carrot, radish
pepper	lettuce, cucumber, beans
tomato	calendula, basil, beans, nasturtium, parsley

The following pairs of plants are characterized by poor compatibility of planting vegetables in the garden:

• cabbage and strawberries;
• onions and beans;
• carrots and celery, dill, parsley;
• cucumbers and potatoes.

Useful advice! In the garden, in addition to the main crops, it is recommended to plant spicy and ornamental herbs pointwise. Thus, the garden will be not only beautiful, but also useful.

Examples of mixed planting vegetables in the garden: popular schemes

A good example of the compatibility of vegetables in the garden is the combination of onions and carrots. As an independent crop, onions are able to produce about 2.5 kg of yield from 1 m² of beds. Carrots on the same area gives about 6 kg of crop. With the joint cultivation of these crops with 1 m², you can get 9 kg of vegetables. These plants create protective barriers for each other against pests, so the efficiency of the used area increases.

Of course, when planning a co-growing of crops in a garden, you need to group the plants according to their height so that none of them blocks the light for the other. This is necessary because vegetables can not only have different height, but also grow with different speed. It is desirable that compactors that are planted additionally be lower in height than the main vegetables. The principle of a multi-tiered neighborhood of vegetables in the beds allows you to create favorable conditions for the root system of crops, and also contributes to the rational use of solar energy.

High yields are collected from the beds where beets and late cabbage are planted. To do this, beets (9 plants) and cabbage (4 bushes) should be planted on an area of ​​\u200b\u200b0.8x0.8 m, while not forgetting to fertilize the holes with a glass of compost and a handful of eggshells (pre-grind).

To obtain excellent result when planting beans and tomatoes, it is recommended to place the plants in a row with a step of 0.3 m. Along the row with bush beans, it is installed so that each plant is at the dropper. Tomatoes are planted in the central part of the garden. As a result, bean and tomato bushes should be staggered.

Useful advice! It is better to cut the stems of tomatoes for the winter, and as low as possible. And the beans, on the contrary, are recommended to be left untouched.

Table of crop rotation of vegetables in the beds by crop groups

Crop rotation can also affect the yield of beds. If the annual change of crops grown in the same garden is carried out in the correct order, the garden will produce good yields.

Benefits of proper crop rotation:

• the probability of soil fatigue on the site is excluded, since the same vegetable every year absorbs the same set of nutrients from the soil and does it from the same depth;
• the spread of diseases and pests that infect plants of the same family is prevented;
• it becomes possible to rationally use fertilizers.

The most primitive way of organizing crop rotation in the garden involves planting plants from different families on the same area every year. It is easiest to break cultures into four groups:

1. Leaf crops - these include different kinds cabbage, green onions, lettuce, and spinach.
2. Fruit vegetables - cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, pumpkin.
3. Legumes - beans, chickpeas, peas.
4. Root crops - potatoes, beets, radishes, carrots.

Table of the simplest crop rotation in the garden:

Order of disembarkation by year	Recommended crops for planting
	1st bed	2nd bed	3rd bed	4th bed
1 year	fruit	roots	legumes	leafy
2 year	roots	legumes	leafy	fruit
3 year	legumes	leafy	fruit	roots

Arrangement of beds for cucumbers in the open field: photos and recommendations

For growing cucumbers in open ground, the beds are usually prepared in the fall. This should be done before the onset of rain and temperature drops. The planting area must be carefully dug up and saturated with organic fertilizers. Cucumbers like fertile, light soil that has a good level of air and water permeability. If the soil in the area is heavy, sawdust, peat or sand can be added to the ground to facilitate loosening.

Useful advice! To get a rich harvest, it is recommended to add a tablespoon of superphosphate and a glass of ash per 1 m² of area. Instead of ash, you can use dolomite flour.

The process of preparing the beds for cucumbers in the spring includes the procedure for disinfecting the soil. For this, the place of the future garden is spilled with potassium permanganate. The solution should be hot and strong. In addition, soil fertility can be improved by adding chicken manure or manure. This procedure is carried out locally, that is, the fertilizer is placed directly in the trench or hole. After that, the bed is covered with a small layer of soil, where the seeds are then planted.

How to make a bed for cucumbers: agricultural secrets

To get a rich harvest of cucumbers from the garden, you must adhere to the basic rules:

1. Near the beds should not be channels for irrigation, streams and flowing reservoirs.
2. If the planting area does not have protection, the garden is best placed in a quiet place where there are no drafts.
3. Procedures such as watering and loosening the soil should be performed on a regular basis. Otherwise, a hard crust will form on the surface, and the bed will dry out a lot.
4. Cucumbers grown in open ground need to be fed much more often than plantings growing in closed beds.
5. During harvesting, it is not recommended to change the position of the lashes of the plant or turn them over.
6. Weeding plants in open beds need to be done more often than it is done indoors.
7. It is recommended to cover the entire surface of the bed with a black film.

Cucumbers need a rich biological composition of the soil. Therefore, it is recommended to fertilize the land with organic matter, for example, grass, humus, branches, rotted manure, food waste. In the process of their decomposition, not only the fertility of the soil increases, but also heat is released, warming the soil. To prevent high temperatures from damaging root system cucumbers, experienced summer residents are advised to carry out abundant watering.

Interesting fact! Sometimes the decomposition of organic fertilizers is so active that the soil in the garden warms up to 80 ° C. Under the influence of such high temperature many pests, viruses and pathogenic fungi contained in the earth die. The result is a natural sterilization of the soil.

There are several ways to grow cucumbers outdoors. For these purposes, you can form a long ridge bed, a hole, dig a ditch, or build a high structure.

How to make beds for cucumbers with a bookmark in the garden

To form a bed with a bookmark, you will need to dig a trench. The depth of the ditch should be equal to two shovels. Then branches are laid out across and sawdust is poured. The next layer consists of straw and garden waste. Can add autumn leaves, cardboard or newspapers, compost. The thickness of the fertilizer layer should be within 5-7 cm. The bookmark is poured warm water and covered with a mixture of compost and earth.

A bed with a bookmark can effectively serve for 5 years. In the second year of operation, you will not need to add compost to the top layer, because during the decomposition of organic components, the bed itself will produce nutrients.

Advantages of a bed for growing cucumbers with a bookmark:

• convenient irrigation system;
• water stagnation is excluded;
• in the spring you do not need to dig up the soil, it is enough to loosen the soil.

On such a nutrient basis, plants can be planted much earlier than is customary to do on ordinary beds. It is not recommended to use beds with a bookmark in low-lying areas and areas where water stagnates.

Warm surface beds for cucumbers in the open field

This type warm beds for growing cucumbers is built on the surface of the prepared soil. This technology will be the best option for areas that are located in the lowlands. In order to enhance the heating process, the bed is covered with a film. As a result, a greenhouse effect is formed, which has a positive effect on the growth of cucumbers and their yield.

Surface beds also include structures in the form of boxes made of brick, slate or boards. The bottom of these containers is covered with sand, then with wood waste. Next comes a layer of organic waste and straw. After laying each component, the contents are carefully compacted and filled with liquid manure. Finally, the bed is covered with a mixture consisting of and soil.

Useful advice! Skins of vegetables and fruits, fallen leaves, eggshells (pulverized) can be used as organic waste.

Cucumbers are planted in two rows. Plants are placed along the edges of the bed-box, which ensures a sufficient level of illumination. If you plan to plant cucumbers in early spring, structures can be converted into greenhouses. To do this, you need to install plastic arcs and pull on them polyethylene film. Thus, heating is enhanced and it becomes possible to obtain early harvest. Moreover, the result is completely independent of weather conditions.

Raised beds for cucumbers in the open field

Warm raised beds are used when the site is located in a region with a cold and humid climate. Due to this, there is a full warming up of the soil, which allows to achieve a harvest in the early stages. If they come too close to the garden ground water, the bed rises high, due to which the plantings do not get wet on soil supersaturated with moisture. Planted in the same way stone fruit trees, whose roots are severely affected by groundwater.

Various materials are used as borders for these structures. The most popular of them are slate and wood. In rare cases, metal is used. This type of beds can be installed even in the middle of the lawn. If you make a frame in the form of paving stones or tiles, a raised garden with cucumbers will become a worthy decoration of your summer cottage.

As an alternative solution, it is possible to build an artificial mound on the territory that does not have a fence. You can take any length for such a bed, the optimal width parameter is 1 m. You should not raise the decorative garden to a height of more than 1 m. The air that remains in the voids formed between the elements of large organic matter provides good ventilation and contributes to the rapid heating of the soil.

To speed up the process of decomposition of fertilizers, the soil is spilled with a solution saturated with special bacteria. The procedure is carried out twice a year. The first time the soil is watered with bacteria in the spring. Before planting plants after processing the beds, you should wait at least a week. The second time the soil is spilled in the fall after the crop is harvested. When the earth has already been treated with the composition, it should be loosened so that the soil is saturated with oxygen, and the preparation itself is evenly distributed.

How to make beds in the garden: a video review of technology

Country geography: how to properly place the beds.

How to properly place beds and fruit trees on your site
Harvest has long been harvested, and outside the window snowing. It would seem that it's time to take a break from summer troubles, but the thoughts of many gardeners are already devoted to the future summer season: what and where to plant, what fertilizers and seeds to buy, how much and what kind of film is needed for greenhouses and hotbeds ...
And it seems that there is nothing complicated here - just place potatoes, cabbage, carrots, beets, onions and garlic, green crops on their hundred square meters, because everything else: trees, shrubs, raspberries and strawberries have long had their legal seats.

But in practice, everything turns out to be more complicated - you have to compare a lot various factors to accept, it happens, just one is unique the right decision. Moreover, for this it is not enough to know which crops are light-loving and which are shade-tolerant - you also need to take into account the fertility of a particular site, which crops grew here in the past, and preferably, and not only in the past year, and which crops will grow nearby peacefully and without conflicts.

Therefore, really enthusiastic gardeners and gardeners have to plan and record in their garden no less painstakingly than accountants do their reporting. For example, my grandfather had a huge ledger with detailed plans garden-garden for several decades, starting from the 50s. In fact, for so many years, information is not needed - in most cases, it is enough to have data for 3-4 years, but here the grandfather’s truly accounting nature has already affected.

Everything is simpler for me, since a computer is at hand, and it’s enough for me to simply record the year on the plan once drawn in the corresponding program and note where and what crops I grew. But most probably still have to draw such a plan by hand - in this case, it is more reasonable to draw a plan once indicating trees, shrubs, greenhouses, hotbeds and permanent ridges, then take a dozen photocopies, and mark the crops planted in each one year or another - it will be much faster.

How to agree on all the pros and cons
Even with all necessary information Finding the right solution can be difficult. You start to place, and it seems that almost everything was planned out, but at the last stage it turns out that, for example, there is a garden bed left for cabbage, on which this same cabbage grew the year before last and at the same time was sick with keel. So, you can’t land her here, and everything starts all over again. Again, we have to redo the plan, look for a new solution and draw it again.

If you are familiar with this situation and give yourself a headache every year by planning and moving crops around the garden again, then try interesting solution, which I recently read about (I don’t need it, since I do everything on a computer, but most gardeners will probably come in handy). True, to use this approach, you must have rectangular beds that are close in size, and each vegetable must be planted on its own bed (that is, not in the company of others).

In this case, you can plan like this: take last year's site plan (and better plans for 3-4 years) and a blank sheet of paper. Draw this sheet into identical rectangles and write on them: potatoes, cabbage, carrots, onions, garlic, etc., listing everything that you plan to plant. Moreover, if you always occupy two ridges with garlic, then, accordingly, there should be two rectangles with the name "garlic", etc. Cut the paper into separate rectangles and begin to assemble a puzzle on your plan called “an entertaining garden”, placing the ridges-rectangles in the right way on the chosen places of your plan. It’s not scary to make a mistake here, because. it's easy to fix everything by moving the "wrong" rectangle to a new location. Try it, and this method will be much easier than playing all the situations in your head and repeatedly and painstakingly redrawing your plan.

What factors should be considered when planning a garden?

First, all vegetables love a sunny place. Only green crops, which include onion on a feather, and perennial bows like chives and slime, partially put up with partial shade. This means that in a small shade of a house, a fence, trees and shrubs, you can sow and plant onions and some herbs. Although you won’t get a big harvest in this case, you still can’t grow anything else in these places.

The second is the compatibility of vegetables: who is good with whom or, conversely, bad. Cabbage does not live with tomatoes and beans. Cucumber - with potatoes. Tomatoes - with fennel. Potatoes - with tomatoes and pumpkin. Peas and beans are very unpleasant onions and garlic, radishes - hyssop. Only now carrots get along with everyone, although from the point of view of protection against carrot flies, it is preferable to sow it in company with onions. It was about bad neighbors.
What about good ones? Here are other examples. All vegetables of the celery family (carrots, parsnips, parsley, celery) go well with the onion family: onions, garlic, leeks, shallots. White and black radish work well with other vegetables. Radish grows very well between rows of bush beans - it becomes very large, tasty and not wormy. Potatoes do not interfere with beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish and onions. But each individually, because in this group there are several irreconcilable couples.
Onions, celery, potatoes, dill and lettuce are compatible with cabbage. Tomatoes can be planted next to green and cabbage crops, asparagus and beans. Peas can coexist with carrots, cucumbers, potatoes, radishes, corn. And so on.

The third rule is no less important - it must be borne in mind that the phytoncides secreted by some plants repel pests of other crops or prevent some diseases from developing. For example, onion phytoncides repel carrot flies, and carrot phytoncides repel onion flies. Dill protects cucumbers from diseases, and onions and garlic protect tomatoes. If you plant strong-smelling plants near cabbages, such as celery, thyme, or sage, they will drown out the smell of cabbage and make it less attractive to pests. And it’s good to plant basil near beans to protect against bean weevil, garlic near roses to protect against aphids, parsley near asparagus.

When planning, it is also necessary to take into account the predecessors, that is, whether a suitable vegetable grew last season in the place where you will plant another in the spring. And here again there are numerous schemes! And the most important thing to learn is that you cannot plant the same culture in the same place. And besides, you can not place cabbage after any cabbage and beets. Beets - after beets, cabbage and tomatoes. Tomatoes - after all nightshades and peas.

The fifth thing to consider is the long-term rotation of crops, a 3-4 year perspective. Here it is even more difficult. Agronomy teaches you to rotate vegetables according to their nutritional needs, in particular, in organic matter. Conventionally, in the first year (i.e., on fresh organic matter), they grow cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage of medium and late deadlines ripening, leeks, etc., that is, those crops for which organics need to be applied a lot. In the second year they are replaced by onions, peppers, tomatoes, potatoes. The third is the turn of root crops (carrots, beets, radishes, etc.), which have to add a fair portion of mineral fertilizers.

Features of garden planning
With a garden, it gets even more difficult, because we plant vegetables every year, and if one year your planning was unsuccessful, then perhaps the next year everything will be much better.
We place trees and shrubs in permanent places for a long time, and once planted apple trees will supply you with fruits for the rest of your life. Therefore, when drawing up a garden plan, it is necessary to allocate separate permanent places for each species of trees, for vegetables, for flowers, and everything must be correctly calculated in advance where and what will grow in 10-20 years. And there are a lot of rules too.

The first rule is that each group of crops (fruit trees, berry bushes, vegetable and ornamental crops) permanent place. A common mistake is the combined arrangement of crops, when vegetables, strawberries, berry bushes are placed among young apple and pear trees. At first everything turns out well: the trees do not take up much space, there is enough light and nutrition for other plants. But over time, the trees grow, and then the intermediate crops fall into the shade, their productivity becomes low. Therefore, the first rule of site planning is to allocate a separate permanent place for each crop. Of course, you can temporarily grow berry bushes, strawberries and vegetables among vigorous tree species, but then, when a strong blackout occurs, they will have to be removed and moved somewhere else, which you need to think about in advance.

The second rule is to provide for the possibility of renewing strawberries, plantations of berry bushes, cherry and plum trees. Let's say strawberries bear fruit well in one place for 2-3 years. In the fourth or, in extreme cases, the fifth year of fruiting, it must be completely eliminated. Therefore, one bed is vacated every year in order to grow vegetables here the next year, and a bed of vegetables is planted with strawberries.

Therefore, it is more convenient to attribute strawberries not to a garden, but to a vegetable garden and change strawberry ridges with vegetable ones. Currant, gooseberry and raspberry bushes can theoretically bear fruit in one place for a very long time, and it all depends on proper care. It is more profitable (from the point of view of saving your own time) to take care of these crops well and regularly cut and spray, then in one place, subject to rejuvenating pruning, they can bear fruit for 10, 15 years or more. And everything will be fine. And if you take care of them poorly, then they will not last long, the bushes will weaken from diseases, pests, malnutrition and thickening, and you will have to look for them somewhere else and start growing and shaping again.

The third planning rule is respect for the rights of a neighbor. Your trees should not greatly obscure the neighboring area. The distance from the tree trunk to the boundary should be at least half the generally accepted row spacing: for vigorous trees 3.5-4 m, for medium-sized trees - 2.0-2.5 m. Currants, gooseberries, raspberries can be planted in the strip between the trees and the boundary . And in no case should you plant tall trees and shrubs 20 cm from the border, which, alas, is not uncommon.

The fourth planning rule is to reduce the height of plants as you approach the house. In order for housing to be dry and bright, the lowest plants should be placed near the house - flowers, lawn grasses, part of strawberries, vegetables, shrubs, and tall trees should be taken away, into the depths of the site.

The fifth rule is to take into account the characteristics of certain plants. From berry bushes in drier, but well-lit places, it is better to plant red currants, gooseberries, and black currants in lower, more humid (but not swampy) places. Raspberries and sea buckthorn are planted separately in specially designated areas of the site, since the first gives a lot of root offspring, and the second develops long roots that interfere with the growth and development of other plants; Strawberries are planted in places where snow is well retained in winter. Growing strawberries between fruit trees is undesirable.

Chokeberry and sea buckthorn look good when planted in groups closer to home. Lemongrass and actinidia are planted near the wall of the house so that there is protection from the wind and it is possible for them to create reliable vertical supports. Barberry and lilac are planted away from all other crops (somewhere apart), because. their root secretions do not give life to other plants.