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How to make a bathroom in a wooden house. An extension to the house - how to quickly and inexpensively make it from available materials What to attach a bathroom to the house from

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A country house is rarely associated with amenities and comfort. For some reason, a rickety toilet booth and a galvanized trough for washing come to mind. And it’s completely in vain: it’s not a problem to build a comfortable bathroom and a convenient bathroom in a cottage. I will try to describe solutions to a number of problems that arise at different stages of construction in this article.

Building

How to attach a bathroom to a house - stone or frame?

Let's break this question into several less global ones.

Foundation

How to connect the foundation of the extension to the base of the house?

As a rule, private houses, depending on the type of soil and the mass of the walls, are built on strip, columnar or pile foundations. In the case of a strip foundation, the problem of connecting the foundations of the extension and the main structure will inevitably arise. This problem has two possible solutions:

extensions are connected to the strip foundation of the house with thick (14 - 16 mm) reinforcement. It is pulled through holes drilled in concrete. Such a reinforcement scheme eliminates the deformation of the extension walls during soil subsidence;

It makes sense to build a common foundation on stable soils and after complete shrinkage of the house. If the soil is mobile, and the shrinkage has not yet completed, it is better to prefer separate bases.

The second option is the construction of an independent foundation. It is laid to the same depth as the foundation of the house. An expansion joint remains between the foundations, filled with any elastic material (for example, glued mineral wool). Such a scheme allows, among other things, the use of foundations of different types (say, columnar and tape).

What can the foundation be made of??

In the Crimea, where I live, the most popular solution is monolithic strip foundations made of concrete grades M250 - M300. Typical deepening is about 30 - 40 centimeters, the height of the foundation above ground level is 25 - 30 cm.

On heaving soils in regions with cold winters, the foundation should be buried below the freezing level. In areas of the country with permafrost, strip foundations are not at all held in high esteem: as a rule, houses are built on piles.

Walls

What to build the walls of the bath?

Wall material is dictated both by local building material prices and by the type of walls in the main building. Agree that a brick bathroom will look rather strange in a house made of timber. I will list the most popular solutions in my region:

Frame construction with filling of cavities with mineral wool and sheathing of OSB 10 mm thick. The frame is rigidly tied to the walls of the house with galvanized corners or anchors;

The walls are made of shell rock, a local sedimentary rock. Due to its porous structure, it retains heat well, but does not have high mechanical strength. In order for the extension to be rigidly connected with the house, a reinforced concrete armored belt is constructed, tied to the walls of the main building with reinforcement laid in the holes in them;
In recent years, aerated concrete has noticeably squeezed the shell rock due to the ideal geometry of the blocks. The walls made of it do not require mandatory leveling with plaster;
Finally, the time-tested classics - logs and beams - also did not go anywhere from the building materials market. In this case, a deformation seam remains between the walls of the extension and the house, filled with mineral wool or other insulation.

Do you need wall insulation??

It all depends on the climate zone and the materials used in the construction. If the extension is built from aerated concrete blocks and is operated in Yakutia or Chukotka, heat loss through walls without insulation will be unreasonably large. On the other hand, 100 mm thick frame walls filled with mineral wool will provide sufficient thermal insulation in most of the country.

Roof

What should be the design of the roof of the bathroom attached to the house?

All the outbuildings I saw in the Crimea had a shed roof laid on wooden beams. Beams can be based on a Mauerlat anchored to the armored belt, but much more often they are simply waterproofed and laid in the upper part of the walls.

How to cover the roof of an extension?

In my opinion, in the middle price range, the most attractive material is profiled sheet. It was he who I used when building the attic roof in my house. Here are the arguments in his favor:

Low price per square meter (from 150 rubles with a sheet thickness of 0.4 mm);
Acceptable strength, allowing the roof to withstand the weight of an adult;
Durability. The service life of the profiled sheet is estimated at least 30 years.

In fairness, it is worth mentioning a couple of shortcomings of the material:

The roof will make a noticeable noise in the rain;
With small slopes (less than 15 degrees), overlaps along the length must be additionally sealed with silicone. Unlike a metal tile, the profiled sheet does not have a transverse wave, which excludes water leakage.

With a small extension, the roof, as a rule, is completely covered with one row of sheets.

When installing a profiled sheet, a lathing of a board 30–40 mm thick is laid on top of the beams in increments of 0.5 meters, vapor-permeable waterproofing and a 20 mm thick counter-lattice. The counter-lattice creates a ventilation gap, which excludes the accumulation of condensate and the decay of the roof frame.

How to insulate the roof of an attached bathroom?

Slabs of glued mineral wool are laid in the gaps between the beams or roof rafters. From below they are hemmed with a vapor barrier film. Then a draft ceiling is constructed from a board 25 mm thick, to which a plasterboard sheet, plastic or any other finishing ceiling material is attached to level it.

floors

What to make a bathroom floor?

A typical floor base is wooden beams. As a rule, cranial bars are hemmed on their side surfaces, on which a board 25 mm thick and insulation are successively laid. From above, the insulation is covered with waterproofing, after which a draft floor is laid from a board 40–50 mm thick (depending on the step between the beams).

With a large distance from the beam to the beam, it is more profitable not to increase the thickness of the flooring boards, but to lay transverse logs under them in increments of 30 - 50 cm.

A typical bathroom flooring is tile. Its laying on a wooden base deserves a special discussion. When building a bathroom in the attic, I solved this problem like this:

A sheet of OSB 15 mm thick was screwed to the lags with self-tapping screws;
A 24 mm thick cement particle board is laid on top of it. To exclude deformation of the floor, the slab is glued to the base on mounting foam and attracted with self-tapping screws through holes previously drilled in it;
The seams of the DSP are filled with mortar;
A tile is laid on top of the DSP. For its sticker, I used Ceresit CM 17 tile adhesive.

The bathroom is operated very carefully, so I did without additional waterproofing of the floor. In the general case, it is useful; for waterproofing, it is easiest to use dense polyethylene laid between the layers of the base.

Decoration Materials

What and how Can a bathroom in a frame house be finished with your own hands?

For sheathing the frame, plywood or OSB is usually used. The main finishing material for the bathroom is tile: it combines absolute resistance to moisture with exceptional strength, which allows you to clean the walls with any aggressive and abrasive detergents, and durability.

The main problem is to stick the tiles on OSB or plywood. Here are her two solutions:

Use silicone sealant instead of tile adhesive. It is applied pointwise or in stripes to the edges and in the middle of each tile, after which it is rubbed against the wall with a couple of sliding movements. Preliminary priming of the walls is not necessary, it is enough just to thoroughly clean them from dust.

The seams are filled with the same sealant. In the assortment of many manufacturers there are colored silicone grouts for tiles;

I used regular transparent silicone to fill the seams. The base can be seen through the seam only in bright light and looking straight ahead.

Sheathe the walls with moisture-resistant drywall or GVL. The seams can not be puttied: they will still be covered with tiles. In this case, any cement-based adhesive can be used to lay the tiles.

When finishing the bathroom in the attic, I used another material - rubber paint. This is a common acrylic latex-based water-based emulsion, which, after drying, gives a full-fledged waterproofing coating. It can be washed and cleaned with any non-abrasive means.

It is desirable to provide at least one light window in the walls of the bathroom. To protect against indiscreet looks from the outside, it is usually placed under the ceiling. I used a metal-plastic window with double glazing without opening sashes.

Plumbing

Which bath is better to buy - cast iron, steel or acrylic?

At different times I happened to use baths of all three types. Here are the impressions they left behind.

Material	Peculiarities
Cast iron	The significant mass of the bath makes it difficult to install, but increases stability. The bath heats up slowly and cools down slowly. The set of water is almost silent: massive walls do not resonate
Steel	As long as the seam between the wall and the rim is not sealed, the steel bath remains unstable. Sitting on the side, you can turn it over. The bottom makes noise when taking in water. Deformation of the bottom under the weight of the owner may well cause chipping of the enamel
Acrylic	A light bathtub requires a mandatory fixing to the wall, which makes it relatively difficult to install. Acrylic is afraid of strong blows, therefore it is better not to place shelves with household chemicals and cosmetics above the bathroom. The surface gets dirty easily; for cleaning, you can use acidic and alkaline cleaners (Beliznu, Domestos, etc.)

I currently have an acrylic bath installed. The choice was dictated by two considerations:

Economy. A comparable-sized cast-iron bath cost three times as much;
The ability to choose the form that is convenient for me. Triangular and asymmetric cast-iron baths, apparently, are not produced in principle, and acrylic ones - as much as you like.

How to put a bath - horizontally or with a slope?

Position the bathtub on legs so that its sides are horizontal and check the slope of the bottom with a level. If it is able to provide water flow to the outlet, the bath can be left in this position. If the bottom is also horizontal, the side farthest from the outlet will have to be raised.

How to close the seam between the bathroom and the wall?

If the walls are even, it is enough to fill the seam with silicone sealant. With a significant thickness of the seam under the bath shelf, you will have to first stick a strip of foam or nail a thin rail. The obstruction will prevent the silicone from sliding down under its own weight.

A few nuances:

The seam is filled with silicone to the full depth. It will not only ensure tightness, but also securely fix the edge of the bath. This is especially important if the latter is made of steel or acrylic;
Do not be too lazy to pre-protect the tiles and the bathtub shelf with strips of masking tape. It will be quite difficult to remove the seized sealant from their surface;
With a small thickness of the seam, it is better to use not white, but transparent sealant. For a reason unknown to me, it is not affected by fungus, while white silicone often turns black after several years of operation.

In the case of uneven walls, the gap between the wall and the bathroom is closed with a plastic corner. It is better to glue it on the same sealant. Silicone is not applied to the corner itself, but to the wall and shelf of the bath: there is less chance of staining adjacent surfaces.

What is the best faucet for the bathroom?

Its design will dictate the interior of the bathroom in the house: for example, a chrome-plated faucet is perfect for a modern design, and a retro-style bronze appliance will look good with a freestanding cast-iron bathtub with forged or bent legs.

But the design is better to select, based on the fault tolerance of different solutions. Here I will allow myself to give a couple of tips:

The most reliable type of shut-off and control valves are ceramic crane boxes;
Ball switches on the shower do not break in principle. They are easy to distinguish from externally similar lever ones along the handle: it freely rotates 360 degrees.

When buying a mixer, pay attention to its weight. You should not buy a device that is too light: with a high probability, not brass is hidden under the chrome coating, but an extremely fragile silumin.

Which pipes and how to lay a sewer in the bathroom in a country house?

I advise you to use inexpensive and durable PVC pipes. Here are the basic rules for installing sewerage:

Pipes should be laid open. Some blockages can only be cleared through the nearest socket connection. It is desirable that after cleaning you do not have to make unscheduled repairs in the bathroom in the house;

The slope towards the movement of drains should be 2 cm per linear meter for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm and 3 for a diameter of 50 mm;

The diameter of the pipe in the direction of the flow of effluents can only increase;
To connect bathtubs, shower cabins and washbasins, the sewage system is bred with a diameter of 50 mm, toilet bowls - 110 mm;
A plastic pipe is attached in increments of no more than 10 of its diameters. The instruction is related to the plasticity of PVC: over several years, loose sections can sag under their own weight and form sections with a negative slope. Each counter-slope will become a place of constant blockages;

To connect the bath, it is better to provide an oblique tee with a side outlet directed in the direction of the drains. In this case, a volley of water will not lead to an overflow of the sewer;

All connections of piping and siphons to the sewer must be airtight. Through the gaps, sewage odors will penetrate into the bathroom.

Ventilation

How to get rid of dampness in the bathroom?

By organizing its heating and forced ventilation. In the attic bathroom of my house, air is taken through a grate in the ceiling; a duct fan with a capacity of 105 m3/h is responsible for ventilation. It is connected to a separate dimmer that allows you to adjust the speed, and works around the clock.

Conclusion

I hope that my experience will help the reader successfully solve the problems of building and finishing a bathroom. As always, you can learn more by watching the video in this article. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

August 28, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of people sitting, sewerage into the house, or the need to close the front door from direct cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, arranging a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

An extension to the house with your own hands can be made of wood, brick, or in a combined version, which includes several building materials.

Requirements for premises

In order not to have to make additional changes already in the attached room, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Extra room

If you want to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost tantamount to building a small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating provided to it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a dwelling. The second important condition for normal living is the absence of dampness in the room, which means that reliable waterproofing is needed.

Kitchen or bathroom

When arranging these premises, before installing the foundation, engineering communications are brought to the construction site - in particular, sewer pipes. You may have to separately conduct and plumbing.

In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, to think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

Veranda

A veranda is a light structure that serves mainly to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain, or is used for summer holidays. It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and may be and completely open, that is, it is a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This building does not require special insulation, but you still have to carry out waterproofing for the foundation.

Foundation for an extension

The foundation for an extension can be tape, lined with brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To stop at one of them, you need to find out how each design is arranged, and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Information about the construction of the foundation

Strip foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:

First you need to mark up and trace the place where the extension will be placed. This is done with a rope that is stretched across the terrain and secured with pegs.

Further along the markup, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of his house is built. It would be nice to fix the reinforcement connecting the foundations of the main building and the extension before pouring concrete.
The width of the trench should be 100–150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
After the trench has been dug, it is further prepared. First, backfilling at the bottom of a sand cushion with a thickness of 100–120 mm is carried out. It must be carefully tamped.
The next layer is covered with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
Further along the entire perimeter, waterproofing is laid in the trench, which should extend to the soil surface by 40–50 cm, since it should close not only the inner part of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
A welded reinforcing structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which must repeat the shape of the foundation, and to its entire height.
Then the reinforcement is poured with a rough concrete mortar of cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer has hardened, the next one is poured - to one second of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundation

After pouring this layer, you can start building a wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the basement. The waterproofing film is left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed on top of them so that it does not slip into concrete.
Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that no air cavities remain inside it. You can lightly tap on the formwork - this vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

After completing the pouring of the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, sprayed daily with water to harden.
After the final hardening of the concrete, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process, liquid rubber, tar, bituminous mastic and roofing material are used.

The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - with a concrete screed or flooring from floor beams and a log with a wooden floor on them.

Video - building an extension to a house on a strip foundation

Column Foundation

In addition to the strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be arranged, which is built from brick or concrete, as well as a combination of these materials. Basically, this option is used for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or sanitation in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

A columnar foundation is most often arranged if it is planned to mount a boardwalk.

The work is carried out in several stages:

The first step is marking the site selected for the extension. The pillars should be at a distance of one and a half meters from each other.

Pit pits are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. To the top of the pit should expand somewhat - by about 100 mm on each side.

Installation diagram of the foundation pillar

Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when constructing a strip foundation, using sand and gravel, waterproofing is laid.
If the pillars will be built of brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to harden, they make brickwork.
If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcing structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is allowed inside the formwork and fixed on top of it;
Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next is poured;
The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled daily with water until completely solidified;
After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproofed roofing material, which is glued to heated bituminous mastic.
In the gap remaining between the soil and the pillars, backfilling is done, tamping every 100-150 mm of the backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden bars that will be laid on top of the pillars.

Extension floor base device

If a strip foundation is chosen, both a wooden and a concrete floor can be arranged on it. A columnar foundation without lintels suggests a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside the strip foundation, you need do work step by step, adhering to a certain technology.

To begin with, excess soil is selected inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250-350 mm.
At the bottom of the resulting pit, a sandy ten-centimeter pillow is poured and compacted. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used to insulate the screed, poured in a layer of 15–20 cm.

Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grate is laid on it. After its installation, a beacon system is arranged from above along the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, such as a bathroom or an open terrace, may also require a certain slope of the surface for unhindered flow of water that has fallen on the floor to the drainage system.
Next, a cement mortar is laid out on the prepared surface and leveled using the rule. A day later, it can be covered with plastic wrap - then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative coating or a wooden floor can be laid on the resulting concrete base.

Floor on wooden beams

Floor beams are wooden bars of a sufficiently large thickness, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You can’t save on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

Beams are laid on poles or strip foundations, on top of the made roofing material substrate, and can be fixed to concrete in various ways - using through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. Between themselves, the beams at the intersections are also fastened with powerful corners.

They will hold securely, as the wooden flooring of the "black" and "white" floor also serves as a kind of binding fastener.

Video: erection of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of extension walls

Brick or frame walls can be built on a ready-made strip foundation, while a columnar one is mainly used for frame buildings. If it is planned to make brickwork on the pillars, then additional concrete lintels will have to be made between the pillars.

Frame walls

The frame for future walls is erected from a bar and fixed to the crown beams of the ceiling that were mounted earlier. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

To connect the frame to the wall of the house, perfectly accurate vertical markings are made on it, along which a separate bar or assembled frame element will be fixed.

For reliability, all the bars are interconnected by metal corners.

Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) from the outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure stiffer.

The upper horizontal beam, running along the house, is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Video: another example of building a light extension to the house

brick walls

Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, align it to the ideal. If the base is uneven, then the masonry may crack from deformation during shrinkage.
It should be noted that brick extensions are best done to also a brick house. To connect the extension with the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled two-thirds of the depth, through every two to three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. So that the seams on these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement should not be chosen too thick, or it will be necessary to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
If a brick extension is arranged against a wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. Reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.

Before starting laying, a twine is stretched along the future wall, along which it will be easy to control the horizontal rows, and the verticality is constantly verified with a plumb line.
The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this is a living room, then laying should be done, at least one or two bricks. If the room will play the role of a veranda or utility room, then half-brick laying will be enough.
Having built brick walls, they are tied around the top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcing structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely solidified, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can proceed to the flooring device.

It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if there is no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified bricklayer or choose a different type of wall.

Covering the extension and roofing

After the walls are erected, it is necessary to make a ceiling. For it you will need bars - beams, which are installed on the upper part of the walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and fixed with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, after wrapping the edge of each of them with roofing material.

The next step is the filing of the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which a heater will be laid on top, between the beams.

The roof of the extension can have different designs, but basically a shed option is chosen, which is worth considering.

This design consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. This type of roof is arranged quite simply, the main thing is to choose the right slope angle. It must be at least 25 — 30 degrees - this is necessary so that precipitation does not linger on the surface in winter, otherwise they can simply damage it.
Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or front part of the roof in the form of a horizontal flat line, along which the bar supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters must extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 — 300 mm, in order to protect the walls from rainwater as much as possible.
The rafters are also fixed with the help of metal corners.
It will be more difficult to solve the issue of the slope of the roof if the extension is installed on the side from which the slope of the main building of the house is arranged, since there will simply be nothing to fix the cross beam there. Therefore, you may have to remove several lower rows (sheets) of roofing material from the roof of the house in order to use its beams to secure the truss system and unify the overall coverage.
It is necessary to decide in advance which roof will be laid on top of the truss system. If it is a soft roof or flexible tiles, then solid material is laid and fixed on top of the rafters, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
If large canvases are fixed (roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
Roofing material is laid on top of the waterproofing material, starting from the bottom of the truss system and rising up. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when docking, the top row of the roof of the extension is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main structure.
If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to the wall or the frontal part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tile

Insulation of the extension from the inside

If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to the insulation of the floor.

Floor insulation on beams

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

Transverse logs from smaller bars are fixed to the floor beams.
It is recommended to arrange a draft floor on the logs, in this case it is better to lay the boards for it with a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat from the house will be blown out.

Further, the entire rough coating is smeared with a sufficiently thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
Mineral wool is tightly laid between the logs, expanded clay or slag is poured.

From above, the insulation is again closed with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor is laid on it from boards or plywood.
A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be arranged under it.