Linoleum laying technology: an overview of the main methods of flooring. Laying linoleum on a wooden floor - a reliable coating device

Linoleum - flooring that remains popular no matter what. What in us attracts the buyer? First of all - harmonious combination prices and quality. Many are happy to note the practicality and economy of such a choice. Another significant plus - laying linoleum is feasible for a simple man in the street. But do not rush to rejoice: “feasible” does not mean at all that the operation can be done carelessly. In this article, we will try to figure out what kind of knowledge, skills, as well as materials and tools you will need to "curb" linoleum.

Although this is obvious, we recall that laying should begin after the completion of the entire spectrum finishing works. Do not let the air temperature in the room fall below +15. You should also pay attention to the moisture content of the subfloor. For concrete, it should be no more than 5%, for wooden or chipboard bases - no more than 10%. Before starting work, prepare all the necessary tools and glue / mastic (if the technology of laying linoleum you have chosen involves their use).

• level;
• high-quality sharpened knife;
• notched / metal / ordinary wooden spatula;
• rulers short (meter) and long (from two meters);
• adhesive tape (double-sided);
• liquid for welding seams.

Stage #2 - focus on the base

In order for laying linoleum with your own hands to bring an exceptionally positive experience, you should carefully prepare the foundation for the future coating. First of all, it should be dry, even and firm. The evenness of the base is checked by a level. The gaps should not exceed 3 mm. All sagging, cracks, swelling, protruding screws and nails must be eliminated.

The thinner the linoleum, the more thorough preparatory work with the base will have to be done. Remember! Irregularities in the subfloor are not just striking - they accelerate the wear of the finishing material. Complex preparatory work directly depends on the type of base.

carpet

obsolete carpet covering it is necessary to remove, clean the surface, additionally align problem areas.

Wooden floor or parquet

It is necessary to check the condition of the parquet (boards), strengthen loosened elements, and replace extremely problematic “zones”. Chips and cracks should be cleaned and puttied.

The surface that cannot be repaired is upholstered with chipboard or plywood. All nail heads are carefully deepened.

Ceramic tile

Loose tiles must be re-glued. The surface is leveled, as a rule, using a special leveling mixture or a floating floor system from Knauf.

Linoleum

An old thin coating in a satisfactory condition can serve. It just needs to be thoroughly degreased.

concrete base

Stage # 3 - cutting linoleum

Linoleum must be rolled out in the room and let it lie down - so it will smooth out, and the characteristic smell will disappear. sub-zero temperatures affect linoleum extremely negatively, make it brittle, so the material acquired in the winter should not be immediately deployed.

Linoleum acclimatized indoors can be cut. When cutting, the following points must be taken into account:

• plain canvases are recommended to be placed in the direction of light. Laid in this way, they will take the form of a "monolithic" finish;
• linoleum canvases with a pattern must be placed parallel outer wall, observing the strict coincidence of the pattern;
• it is not at all necessary to join the coating in the center of the room - the whole strip can be laid in the middle, and the remaining space can be covered with small canvases. Yes, you get two joints - but there will be no obvious “equator” in the room. This is a great technique for the kitchen and the hall: here the “side” seams will easily hide the furniture;
• plumbing, heating pipes, protruding corners will have to be bypassed. To simplify trimming work in these areas, wait until the material is fully acclimatized. Where cutouts are needed, the linoleum is simply bent outward and the “necessary shape” is given to the coating at an angle. Cardboard patterns will help you make this operation quick and hassle-free.

Leave the finished templates “alone” for a few more days.

Now you can lay out the pieces of linoleum on the floor in accordance with the cutting. Fix the joints with massive objects. If the canvases rest against the walls, they should be cut. Without doing this, in the summer you run the risk of seeing "waves" under your feet - the result of the expansion of linoleum (a consequence of heating). Scraps of linoleum should not be thrown away - they can be useful for local repair coatings.

Stage # 4 - directly laying

Adhesion to mastic

First of all, you need to prime the floor and back side canvases. If oil-chalk mastic is used, then drying oil should be used as a primer, if bituminous, then a solution of drying oil and gasoline (proportion 1: 3).

A day or two after priming the surfaces, you can finally fully plunge into the laying process.

Apply the mastic on the base and directly on the linoleum, transfer the canvas to the place allotted to it and press it carefully. Smooth the surface with a roller or a clean rag, thereby removing air. Watch for a layer of mastic - an excessively large one will leave bumps under the linoleum. The mastic protruding from under the edges indicates that you have clearly “overdone it”.

Floor dry

This method should be used with a reasonable degree of caution. The entire canvas should be glued around the perimeter with double-sided adhesive tape, fixed to the base. It is very important to smooth out all the irregularities correctly, without gaps. Otherwise, you will probably have to redo it.

Adhesive laying

Glue before use should be kept indoors for a day (or more). It is necessary to distribute it first over one half of the base area, then over the other. To do this, alternately turn off the edges of the canvas to the border of applying glue.

Linoleum is pressed. To quickly level the coating, you can use a mop or a large roller. Smooth the surface from the center, tending to the edges. Don't forget to smooth out the linoleum against the walls. This can be done with a spatula. With the second canvas, similar manipulations are carried out. Its gluing is carried out with an overlap on the first (three centimeters will be enough). The absolute strength of the surface will come in three days. Until this time, the floor cannot be operated.

The edges are cut at the same time. The seams are soldered special composition after the glue has dried. Along the perimeter, linoleum is covered with a plinth - plastic or wooden.

Please note that if the premises are non-residential, then its area does not matter - linoleum must be "planted" exclusively on an adhesive base.

Summarizing the above, we can say with firm certainty that laying linoleum is a process that does not tolerate haste. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for optimal temperature regime, do not neglect the thorough preparation of the base. Working with linoleum fixes in the head Golden Rule that it is better to “measure seven times” before shredding something. After all, just one miscalculation can “provide” you with a trip to the store for a new roll.

Linoleum, for all its mediocrity, perfect material to test the talent of a novice master, striving to fill his abode with comfort and coziness.

The wooden floor serves as a ready-made coating. But, in the event of any defects or simply when the tree loses its original view, replacement or restoration of the old wooden covering is necessary. Linoleum flooring on a wooden floor is a great option for solving this problem. How to do it correctly and at the proper level, we will consider in this article.

Preparation of a wooden floor for linoleum

Before laying linoleum on a wooden floor, a number of preparatory work should be carried out.

1. First you need to ensure good ventilation of the space that is under the floor. Since linoleum does not allow air to pass through, moisture will collect in the absence of ventilation. The formation of fungus and mold, in this case, is inevitable.

2. Be sure to leave a gap between the layer wooden planks and supporting surface. Using expanded clay, slag or mineral wool soundproof the gap left.

3. If the floor was installed in advance and there is no gap, then make several ventilation ducts and cover them with grates from above.

4. The next step is to inspect the wooden floor. If there are damaged boards on the floor, replace them with new ones. With help building hair dryer and a trowel remove the remnants old paint. Sanding or cycling will help to avoid drops and curvature of the wooden floor. The maximum differences in the wooden floor should be 2 mm.

In the event that the floor has only minor flaws and damage, follow a series of actions:

• boards that stagger or creak, securely fasten with self-tapping screws;
• all caps of self-tapping screws should be drowned, and the resulting recesses should be puttied;
• putty also all cracks and crevices between the boards;
• on those parts of the floor that creak, the cause of the creak should be established;
• to fix the creak, pour graphite powder or talcum powder into the gaps between the creaking boards;
• if this option does not help, remove the boards and substitute an auxiliary beam.

Tip: To putty all joints on the surface of a wooden floor, use a special wood putty, which consists of PVA glue and wood flour.

In the case when on wooden floor there are obvious defects that are difficult to correct. an excellent option would be to install a sheet of plywood on a wooden floor.

Plywood Installation Tips for Wood Floor Adjustment

1. Use plain plywood or fiberboard to cover the old floor. If the floor sags, choose thicker materials such as drywall or particle board.

2. When selecting gypsum board with a thickness of 12 mm, lay the coating in two layers with the sheets placed vertically.

3. Fix plywood sheets with glue and self-tapping screws. The distance between the screws is about 35 cm.

4. Never use waterproofing film, because the tree must constantly breathe and remove excess moisture.

5. For soundproofing, one layer of polyethylene foam is suitable.

6. To avoid squeaking, leave a gap between sheets with a thickness of 0.5-1 mm.

7. When the plywood is glued and fixed, hide all the heads of the screws, putty the joints and sand the surface.

Leveling and preparing a wooden floor before laying linoleum is very important process which should never be skipped. Any linoleum, even the most multi-layered, will not hide floor defects, but after a while will show them even better.

1. Before going to the store, be sure to measure the width and length of the room. Linoleum happens different sizes: 2.5, 3.4, or 4 meters. If the width of the room allows you to overlap the room without the formation of joints, choose this option. To the width and length of the room, you must add a margin of 6-7 cm.

2. Consider the types of coating for laying linoleum on a wooden floor:

• PVC linoleum with fabric, foam or heat-insulating base;
• to ensure good heat and sound insulation, use foamed linoleum, which consists of four layers;
• ordinary fabric linoleum has good plasticity and strength;
• if it is necessary to create a homogeneous structure, as well as resistance to mechanical damage, an excellent option is laying linoleum without a base;
• linoleum made from alkyd materials, although it is durable in operation, it is prone to the formation of cracks on the surface;
• for industrial or production premises suitable rubber linoleum, which is plastic and durable;
• colloxyl coating has a peculiar luster and flexibility;
• linoleum made using natural materials such as: wood flour, linseed oil, cork crumb, jute canvas, will ensure environmental friendliness and protect against the active release of harmful substances.

3. Please note that linoleum made from natural materials has a short service life and wears out quickly.

4. The thickness of linoleum should be more than 4mm, due to the possibility of tearing during installation and operation. Such linoleum can last up to twenty years.

5. When choosing linoleum, take into account such factors as reliability, stability, thermal insulation, sound insulation, price, material from which it is made, size and design.

6. Linoleum is transported only in rolls.

Requirements for successful installation of linoleum on a wooden floor

After choosing and buying linoleum, you should leave the roll for several hours in the room in which the flooring will be carried out. This is necessary so that the linoleum takes the temperature of the room, and does not deform in the subsequent installation. The temperature in the room should not be below 14 degrees, and exceed 19. Air humidity from 40 to 60%. After the linoleum has taken the temperature of the room, we lay the linoleum on the wooden floor, and leave it for one or two days to take shape and completely level.

If you have to work with not one, but several rolls of linoleum, make sure that the rolls are taken from the same batch. Since in the future there will be problems in joining seams and gaps.

PVC types of linoleum are laid in the reverse direction, and natural - in the usual direction.

Methods for laying linoleum on a wooden floor

1. For small room with an area of ​​up to 14 m², the method of laying linoleum without gluing is suitable. After leveling the linoleum on the surface, cut off the excess, and attach the linoleum using skirting boards. At the same time, leave a gap of about 15 mm near the wall, since when the temperature drops, the density of the linoleum changes. The plinth will subsequently hide the gap. If you do not leave a gap, then the linoleum stretches a little and forms swollen areas, which will be difficult to get rid of.

2. For more reliable linoleum flooring, double-sided tape is used. Subsequently, when replacing linoleum, there will be no problems with removing the coating. Adhesive tape is glued around the perimeter of the room with a grid of about 50 cm. When covering a wooden floor with linoleum, the protective paper film is removed, and linoleum is glued to the floor meter by meter. In this case, you need to monitor the smoothing of the surface.

3. Most reliable way laying linoleum is gluing. This is the only option for laying linoleum for rooms larger than 22 m².

How to put linoleum on a wooden floor with glue

To glue linoleum on an old wooden floor, use a special glue that is sold at any hardware store.

Tools and materials for work:

• pencil,
• paint knife,
• notched trowel,
• roller,
• linoleum,
• glue,
• cold welding,
• silicone glue,
• masking tape,
• metal ruler,
• linoleum,
• self-tapping screws,
• screwdriver,
• plinth.

Tips for proper gluing of linoleum:

• before starting work, make a markup and cut off the excess linoleum, while leaving a margin of about 60 mm on each side;
• lift the prepared linoleum with the base up, and free up part of the room for applying glue;
• apply glue in sections, using a wide notched trowel;
• note that the instructions for the glue indicate a certain time that is maintained after applying the glue and before gluing the linoleum;
• after gluing the linoleum, smooth the surface first with your hand and then with a roller to remove any remaining air and avoid swelling;
• the entire remaining surface must be glued in this way;
• after complete drying, proceed with the installation of skirting boards.

Tip: For gluing linoleum joints, use colorless silicone glue and masking tape. On both sides of the joint, stick masking tape and apply glue, after gluing the joints, the masking tape is removed. For high-quality joining, use a liquid for welding seams.

The final stage: installation of skirting boards

The choice of plinth depends on the preferences of the owner. Wooden skirting boards look more solid, and do not emit substances harmful to health. Plastic plinths allow you to hide the unevenness of the walls, as they take their shape over time, and also hide all electrical wiring and communications.

Possible depending on the color classic version- a homogeneous combination of the color of the coating and the plinth, but if you choose a plinth a couple of tones lighter or darker, a clear boundary between the wall and the floor will be visible. It all depends on the interior design.

To install a flat plastic plinth using liquid nails. Wooden skirting boards are attached with nails or screws to the upper base of the wall.

Tip: You should not attach the baseboard to the linoleum, as over the years there is a gradual shrinkage of the coating. In this case, the plinth will move away from the wall and form a gap.

How to take care of linoleum

1. For cleaning, you must use special cleaning products or plain water.

2. Do not use to clean linoleum floors ammonia and soda.

3. Put on special pads on the furniture in order to avoid scratches.

4. Heavy objects should be on thick and reliable legs, so it will be possible to avoid sagging of the coating.

5. In order for linoleum to serve long years, use special polishes, drying oil or linseed oil.

Linoleum on wood floor video:

Foreword

According to the technology of linoleum flooring, the coating is glued to the base along the entire panel or along the edges.

Required Tools and materials

RollersealantPrimerdowelPencilBrushGluecuvettelenoliumknifePerforatorplinthruleRouletteself-tapping screwsExtensionPlywoodscrewdriver

Content

Features of laying linoleum on the floor are determined by the material with which the work is performed and on which coating the canvas is glued. Polyvinyl chloride linoleum can be on a heat and sound insulating or woven basis. Baseless options are also possible, but such coatings are colder and wear out faster. Familiarize yourself with the features of the device of linoleum floors of each of the listed types.

Before laying linoleum on the floor, make sure that the material satisfies the most important operational requirements. It must not emit harmful chemical substances in concentrations exceeding allowable norms; have high abrasion resistance, which determines the durability of the coating; have dimensional stability during the entire period of operation, good recovery of dents after removal of loads, low heat absorption and high soundproofing properties from impact noise for heat and sound insulating coatings; have low flammability; be resistant to acids and most solvents.

In any case, laying linoleum on a concrete floor and any other base is not recommended in conditions of heavy traffic and exposure to abrasive materials, oils and water.

What glue can be used to glue linoleum to a concrete floor

According to the technology of linoleum flooring, the coating is glued to the base along the entire panel or along the edges. Also, linoleum is laid dry, welding individual pieces into a carpet that has the size of a room; work can be done in a “hot” or “cold” way. With the "hot" method, the panels are welded by melting the melting cord with hot air from special device(hair dryer) or welding machine. With the “cold” method of laying linoleum on a concrete floor, the joints are glued with special glue using a spray pencil. For gluing linoleum on a fabric base and PVC tiles, cold mastic "Biskey" is used.

What kind of glue to glue linoleum to concrete floor depends on the chosen material.

For linoleum on a heat and sound insulating basis, Bustilat glue is used, which is a water-based composition based on styrene-butadiene or methylstyrene latex with fillers and additives.

Dispersion compositions are also used for gluing linoleum on fabric, heat and sound insulating substrates and other polyvinyl chloride materials for floors. These adhesives for laying linoleum on concrete floors are mixtures based on a dispersion of 10% aqueous solution CMC glue, 10% solution of pine rosin in xylene with fillers in the form of kaolin or talc. Dispersion adhesives are used for gluing polyvinyl chloride materials for floors on concrete, cement-sand screeds and wood-fiber boards. Adhesives are applied to a dust-free base with a notched trowel with a layer of 0.3-0.4 mm, dried until tacky, and then PVC material is glued. Consumption is 300-400 g per 1 m2 of floor covering.

And with what glue to glue baseless PVC linoleum, relin or Previnil tiles to the floor? For these materials, coumarone-neurite adhesives KN-2, KN-3 are used, which are solutions of coumarone synthetic rubber resins in a mixture of gasoline and ethyl acetate with fillers and additives.

Linoleum flooring: general device technology

Floor coverings made of linoleum and relin in rooms with non-standardized heat absorption are arranged directly on cement-sand screeds or reinforced concrete floor panels.

In rooms with a normalized indicator of thermal activity of the floor ( living rooms, hospital wards) coatings are glued on semi-solid fibreboard(Fibreboard) or (GVL), laid on cement-sand screed. The number of layers of fiberboards is determined by the project.

Humidity of the hardened solution (concrete) of the screed should not exceed 5%, and of fibreboard - 12%, the air temperature in the premises should not be lower than 15 °C. The compressive strength of concrete or screed solution is at least 15 MPa.

The general technology of flooring with linoleum is as follows.

Before laying linoleum on the floor, wood-fiber boards are glued on hot bituminous mastic spaced apart with a gap between the edges of 3-5 mm. Their base is dedusted and primed before sticking. The gaps between the fibreboards are cleaned and sealed with a putty consisting of a polyvinyl acetate dispersion and cement. The ledges between adjacent plates are planed.

Linoleum rolls are rolled out around the room, after which they are aged for several days until the waviness disappears completely. Linoleum and relin panels are laid over the light with an overlap of 10-20 mm on previously laid ones, leaving unglued strips of both panels with a width of 80-100 mm. When sticking, the coating is carefully pressed to the base until air is completely removed from under the linoleum.

3 days after the sticker, both panels are simultaneously cut along a steel ruler with a knife, after placing a strip of fiberboard under the joint, and the edges are glued to the base. The gaps between the wall and the edge of the panel should not exceed 10 mm.

After the glue or mastic has hardened, the skirting boards are installed.

How to glue linoleum on a fabric base on a concrete floor and how to lay tiles

To get started, learn how to glue fabric-backed linoleum, PVC tiles, and Previnil tiles to the floor.

Polyvinyl chloride linoleum on a fabric base is glued onto the cold Whiskey mastic on a dust-free and primed base. The mastic is applied to the base with a notched trowel in a layer 0.3 mm thick and the composition is kept for 30-40 minutes, depending on the room temperature, so that the excess solvent in the mastic disappears. Then the aged linoleum panels are glued and carefully pressed over the entire area with a foot roller.

Laying tiles in straight rows. Floor coverings made of polyvinyl chloride tiles are made according to the drawing provided by the project. Work begins with the definition and application to the base of the longitudinal and transverse axes premises. Then two mutually perpendicular rows of tiles are laid out dry so that their edges adjoin the axes of the room.

When an integer number of tiles does not fit along the length and width of the room, the axes are shifted so that tiles can only be trimmed on one of the two opposite walls. Tiles are cut with guillotine shears or sharp knife along the steel line.

The tiles are glued, starting from the axis of the room, and lead first in one direction, then in a mutually perpendicular direction. Tiles are pressed to the base over the entire area with a wooden mallet with a rubber pad or a foot roller.

Gaps between adjacent tiles are not allowed, and between tiles and the wall they should not exceed 10 mm.

Extruded polyvinyl chloride tiles are often laid apart, which eliminates the alignment of the corners of the four tiles.

Previnil tiles are glued with KN-2 or KN-3 glue.

Before sticking the tiles, the base is carefully dedusted. Glue is applied to the base with a jagged rubber spatula with a layer of 0.5 mm and kept until “tack-free”.

The exposure time depends on the quality and nature of the base and the air temperature in the room. If the base is porous or overdried, the adhesive is applied in two layers, the second - after the first has dried (after 3-6 hours).

Before the Previnyl sticker, a layer of KN-2 or KN-3 glue 0.2-0.3 mm thick is applied to its back side and leveled with a rubber spatula. After 10-15 minutes, the tiles are glued to the base and carefully pressed over the entire area with a foot roller.

On the adhesive composition KN-2 and KN-3, the tiles are glued with a “push” technique. After the tiles have been glued and pressed, they can be walked on while continuing to work. When gluing tiles with cold mastic"Biskeys" use the "on themselves" technique.

Laying tiles in diagonal rows. Coverings of tiles laid in diagonal rows are framed around the perimeter with a frieze. Such floors suit in the halls and large rooms public and administrative buildings. It is recommended to lay tiles in two colors, for example light and dark.

When laying out the coating, the location of the longitudinal and transverse axes is determined, intersecting in the center of the floor of the room. The position of the axes is fixed with cords and found diagonal line passing through the geometric center of the floor at an angle of 45 ° to the walls of the room.

The markup begins with laying out the tiles dry diagonally along the axes. In this case, an integer number of tiles does not always fit on the axis. The dimensions of the frieze in the coating are taken such that triangular halves of tiles of the same color are laid along the perimeter of the main field.

Work begins from the center of the room and is carried out in the same way as when laying tiles - in straight rows, only lighthouse and subsequent rows are laid along diagonal lines.

Wall frieze tiles are laid after laying the main part of the coating and the main frieze tiles. They are pre-marked and carefully adjusted to the walls, pipes and ledges. The tile to be marked is laid dry on the frieze row, another tile is placed on it, adjoining the edge to the wall, then a risk is drawn on the lower tile with a pencil. In accordance with the markup, the bottom tile is cut and laid in the wall row.

To pass pipes in the tiles of the wall row, holes are cut out. Taking into account thermal expansion pipe holes make a slightly larger diameter. To the trim of the doorways, the tiles are adjusted and cut according to the template.

After the adhesive has cured, skirting boards are installed, which are attached to the walls with wooden plugs. It is impossible to fix the skirting board to linoleum and tiles.

Here you can watch a video of laying linoleum on a fabric base, PVC tiles and Previnil tiles on the floor:

How to properly lay linoleum on a heat and sound insulating base on the floor

The technology of laying polyvinyl chloride linoleum on a heat and sound insulating substrate on a concrete floor is described here.

Polyvinyl chloride linoleum on a heat and sound insulating base is delivered to the facility in the form of carpets welded with currents high frequency, the size of the entire room, as well as in rolls. Linoleum carpets, as well as individual panels, are glued to the base with Bustilat glue.

Seams in linoleum carpets, welded with high-frequency currents, must be straight, hardly noticeable along the entire length, the tensile strength of the weld must be at least 2.5 MPa.

The deviation of the dimensions of the carpet from the dimensions of the room in length and width is allowed within 10 mm.

Before laying the linoleum on the floor, rolled carpets are kept for at least 2 days at an air temperature of at least +15 °C. The rolled coating is kept in a free state until the waviness disappears (at least 2 days).

The aged carpets are cut along the contour of the room, leaving a gap between their edges and the wall of no more than 5 mm, then glued to the base.

Before laying the linoleum on the concrete floor, the roll is rolled up half of its length, and glue is applied to the vacated area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base with a metal or rubber notched trowel. The size and shape of the spatula teeth should ensure that the adhesive is applied with a layer of 0.3-0.5 mm.

The carpet is glued so that the welds are directed along the light (perpendicular to the wall with light openings).

IN doorways Linoleum carpets are connected using PVC sills glued to the base with KN-2 or KN-3 glue.

The technology of laying floors from rolls of polyvinyl chloride linoleum on a heat and sound insulating underlay is similar to the installation of a linoleum coating on a fabric underlay, with the difference that in this case Bustilat glue is used.

How to lay baseless linoleum and relin on the floor

Now find out how to properly lay baseless lenolium from extruded polyvinyl chloride and relin on the floor.

Relin and baseless linoleum are planted on KN-2 or KN-3 glue. Before starting work, the base of the coating is carefully dedusted. The glue is applied to the base with a notched rubber trowel with a layer of 0.5 mm and kept “until tacky”. The exposure time depends on the quality and nature of the substrate and the room air temperature. If the base is porous or overdried, the adhesive is applied in two layers, the second - after the first has dried (after 3-6 hours).

Before laying baseless linoleum and relin on the floor, a layer of KN-2 or KN-3 glue 0.2-0.3 mm thick is applied to their back side, which is leveled with a rubber spatula. After 10-15 minutes, the coating is glued to the base and carefully pressed over the entire area with a foot roller.

When applying glue to the back side of linoleum and relin, the edges of the panel 100 mm wide are left free. They are glued and cut in the same way as when installing linoleum coatings on a fabric substrate.

Below is the video “Laying baseless linoleum and relin on a concrete floor”:

How to glue baseboards to the floor with linoleum

Now you know how to properly lay linoleum on the floor different types, it remains to learn how to glue the plinth to the coating.

For the coating of linoleum, wooden and PVC skirting boards are used. They are cut to size. Start installing skirting boards from the corner of the room. Their ends are joined "on the mustache" at an angle of 45 °. The PVC plinth is heated over steam from hot water, why it loses its rigidity, wipe it with a dry cloth and stick it on the KN-2 or KN-3 mastic.

On the surface of the wall and the back side of the vertical part of the plinth, using a spatula with fine teeth, mastic is applied with a layer of 0.2-0.3 mm thick. The plinth is pressed against the wall and excess mastic is removed with a clean rag.

The floor surface of linoleum, relin and PVC tiles must be flat, smooth and clean. It is unacceptable to have scratches, traces of paint, mastic and other contaminants, as well as swelling and wrinkles. The coating color should be uniform. The gaps under the two-meter rail should not exceed 2 mm. The deviation of the coating from the horizontal plane or the specified slope is allowed no more than 0.2%. Ledges and gaps between the edges of adjacent panels and tiles of the coating are not allowed. The deviation of the seams from the straight direction can be no more than 1 mm per 1 m of length.

And one more important point: in the process of gluing linoleum to the floor, make sure that the welds of the material on the heat and sound insulating substrate do not have breaks and burnouts (black or yellow color of the seam). The color of the filler rod (tape) must match the color of the linoleum.

The construction market has a lot of the latest technologies on the design of the base of the floor decorative coatings. Among them, linoleum is perhaps the most sought after and best-selling material. It will not be difficult for even an ordinary person to independently perform such an operation as laying linoleum on a wooden floor. But, as in every new business, there are secrets that you need to know about.

Laying linoleum on a wooden floor - the positive properties of the coating

Linoleum is enough durable material. It contains natural environmentally friendly raw materials.

Considering a large assortment and diversity colors, he is the best option floor coverings not only in any room of a residential building, but also in industrial premises and entertainment centers.

Characteristics of linoleum that determine its advantages:

• Strength
• Waterproof
• Elasticity
• Durability
• Resistance to aggressive environments
• Ease of installation
• Acceptable price
• Installation does not require special skills

Types of linoleum

Conventionally, linoleum can be divided into 2 groups - natural and PVC. It may or may not have a basis.

Foamed linoleum

Linoleum, which has a foam base as a substrate, reaches 4 mm in thickness. The composition of such a material: the first is foamed vinyl, the second is fiberglass as a heater, the third is a decorative layer.

Such linoleum is an excellent heat-insulating and noise-reducing coating, which, at any temperature and humidity, will retain its original appearance.

Linoleum on a fabric basis

The thickness of linoleum, which has a fabric base, is 5 mm. In this type of coating, the fabric base is simply covered with a protective film. The material is made in plain or color.

heterogeneous linoleum

The most durable among various kinds This coating is linoleum, which has a heat-insulating and soundproof base. Its structure is as follows: the first layer consists of felt, the second is foamed vinyl, the third is fiberglass reinforced and ends with a "sandwich" PVC film applied in several layers. The color scheme of such a coating is quite diverse.

Colloxylin linoleum

In the warmest rooms, 3 mm thick linoleum is laid without a base. In addition to all the qualities listed above, it is not affected by fire and is a good electrical insulator.

Alkyd linoleum

It is not inferior in popularity to any of the above types, since it has a thickness of up to 2 mm and is made from alkyd and mineral materials. The drawings are embossed, have various shades colors. But along with the advantages of this type, there are also disadvantages: this linoleum is not elastic enough, which leads to the formation of cracks.

relin

In addition to these types, there is also rubber linoleum. Its thickness reaches 3 mm. It is based on the combination of crushed rubber with bitumen. The upper consists of facing rubber. Sufficiently elastic and waterproof, such a coating is used in production workshops.

Nitrocellulose (colloxylin) linoleum

In the category of colloxyl coatings, linoleum, which does not have a base, stands out favorably. Its exterior finish is characterized by high gloss, elasticity, moisture resistance and high level fire safety.

The durability of linoleum

All types of linoleum have a different degree of durability, which directly depends on the thickness. protective film covering the drawing. It also affects the price of the material.

Semi-commercial linoleums have an average level of durability. They are applied in office space and at production sites, that is, where average traffic intensity is expected. They can be laid in the home hallway. The properties of this material exclude the appearance of footprints.

When choosing linoleum, one should take into account its qualities of heat and sound insulation.

It is also important to calculate the amount of linoleum needed to cover a certain area. It is quite simple: you need to increase the width and length by 10 cm and make a margin to fit the pattern.

Features of laying flooring:

• Wood floor preparation:

Remove paint;
- deepen the nails;
- process boards grinder;
- clean the surface.

• To avoid further breakage of the board material, cover it with plywood sheets.
• Laying can be carried out on the old coating, having previously cleaned it of dust.
• As a fixation, PVA glue is used with the addition of building gypsum.
• Plywood sheets are glued with this mastic, after which they are covered with drying oil.

• Linoleum preparation. Straighten along the entire length. The coating must be cured and leveled.
• Provide room temperature at 15-20 degrees Celsius and air humidity of about 50%

How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor - ways

• Without using a retainer.

This method is the fastest, however, the area of ​​​​its application is limited to 20 squares. It has its drawbacks: there is a rapid wear of the coating, the appearance of waves after the installation work is not excluded.

• Use of double sided tape.

Provides a long service life. If necessary, a quick replacement for another coating is carried out.

• Application of special glue.

Allows you to increase the service life of the coating. The installation process is quite laborious. It is used in large rooms with an area exceeding 20 square meters. m.

If the baseboard is fixed with glue, first glue the linoleum to the base of the floor using a roller. For better adhesion additional weight applied.

Laying linoleum on a wooden floor is a rather troublesome business. But it is quite possible to produce it yourself, while achieving a fairly high result.

What most people call a floor is just flooring. The device of the floors provides not only the presence of a coating, but also a durable, reliable, quality foundation, therefore, the main bearing elements of the floors are their lower ones, not visible to the eye layers. If there is no reliable foundation, then it will not be possible to make quality coating from linoleum or any other material.

If linoleum will be laid on a concrete screed, then it is best to purchase material on a heat-sound basis or use chipboard as a substrate.

At proper conduct preparation of the base, its irregularities should be no more than 2 mm per 1 m.

Device Features

If the basis for such coverage is concrete screed, then to cover the floor it is necessary to purchase linoleum on a heat and sound insulating basis. If you purchase material without a base, then for the installation of such a floor, you must use a chipboard substrate.

Any material can be used to build a floor on a plank base, but before that, all existing cracks must be carefully puttied or a substrate made of chipboard, plywood, fiberboard or OSB should be installed.

Now linoleum is being produced up to 5 meters wide, so for a room floor that does not exceed the specified dimensions, you can use a single piece. Thus, such a complex and painstaking work, like cutting seams and selecting a pattern. The main difficulty when using a material of large width is the difficulty of its transportation, but for the device of such a coating one does not need to have special skills.

To determine required amount floor coverings, it is necessary to measure the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, taking into account all available niches, take into account trimming allowances near the walls, as they can be crooked. If several pieces are attached, then allowance for cutting and selection of a pattern are taken into account, do not forget to add half the depth of the threshold.

You can not lay linoleum immediately after its acquisition. In order for the floor device to turn out to be of high quality, it is necessary that the material stays in the room in the unfolded state for at least a day.

Back to index

Ways of laying There are several ways of laying the specified material:

• on glue - it can be applied around the perimeter or over the entire area;
• on double-sided tape - fastened along the line of joints and around the perimeter;
• if the base is wooden, then nails or staples can be used;
• just "dry" laying on the floor.

The most simple and affordable way- this is free laying, for this, cutting near the walls and installing skirting boards is simply performed.

Laying scheme.

If you decide to install with glue, then you must use the one recommended by the manufacturer, otherwise the floor covering may be damaged or poorly glued. Modern glue has such a structure that it allows it to be firmly fixed during operation, but when it becomes necessary to remove it, this can be done without much difficulty.

If dispersion adhesive is suitable for mounting on the floor of linoleum on a heat-insulating base, then for the fabric base it is necessary to use bitumen-synthetic glue or bituminous mastics, and for material without a base, mastics are used, which include synthetic resins and rubber.

Back to index

Work sequence

Required tools:

• measuring instruments;
• stationery knife;
• metal ruler;
• notched trowel.

First you need to remove the plinth and spread the roll. Do not immediately cut to size, leave overlaps of 5-7 cm, the final cutting will be done later.

Using a metal ruler, the material is securely pressed in the corner between the floor and the wall and cut off with a clerical knife. The edge of the linoleum should not reach the wall by approximately 5-10 mm. The work must be done carefully, but if you cut a little unevenly, then it will hide under the plinth. If suddenly you cut off a little more, then this drawback can be eliminated by installing a widened plinth.

In order to cut off outer corner, you need to fold the material with the back side up. In order not to cut the bottom layer, it is necessary to put a plank between the layers. You need to start cutting off 5 cm from the corner and gradually go towards the extra piece.

In order to cut off in the inner corner, it is necessary to fold the material in the form of the letter V, the cut is made in the center, then the valves are superimposed on each other and the excess is cut off. In order for the linoleum to straighten out, it must be left for 1-2 days.