Tree branch pruning. "golden" rules for garden pruning

The best time for tree pruning- late winter and early spring before new growth begins - this is a favorable period for pruning most garden plants including fruit trees, berry and ornamental rose bushes. Here are some tips to help you prune your trees the right way.

Successful pruning helps maintain plant health, strength and beauty, and in fruit crops, increases productivity and improves crop quality. Whatever you cut, use only sharp, clean tools. Do not cut damp plants, cut below visible signs of disease, and treat the cut site as quickly as possible.

PRUNING FRUIT TREES

A few years ago, our neighbors planted fruit trees. At first, they rejoiced at the large, juicy fruits that appeared on young trees every autumn. But as the trees aged, the fruits became smaller, they were no longer so beautiful and tasty. The neighbors decided that the weather and unsuitable varieties were to blame. In fact, the problem was that they never pruned their trees.

Pruning keeps the trees in good condition and significantly increases the yield. By cutting out some of the branches of a mature, fruit-bearing tree, you reduce the amount of fruit produced on it and provide better illumination inside the crown. The remaining fruits grow better (and the yield from this tree in terms of kg will also be greater), have a more attractive appearance. The increase in air circulation and the sun's rays penetrating the crown prevent the development of diseases.

Pruning should be done in the spring, before the movement of juice in the plant begins, while the tree is still sleeping, but the wood is not frozen.

In young trees, with the help of light pruning, they usually form a crown of one of three types - longline with a central conductor (leader), modified - leader and cup-shaped.

When the tree begins to bear fruit, you will need to do more pruning, cut and shorten the branches. This measure will increase the yield of the tree and create a crown structure that can withstand a larger crop. Here are some pruning tips.

Do a pruning every year. Removing a few branches every year is less painful for your tree than heavy pruning every 2-3 years. As a rule, you can cut a number of branches from the crown, approximately equal to last year's growth, (but not more than 1/3 of all branches of the tree), you may find it necessary to remove new branches, but, first of all, try to cut out the old ones.

Do not heavily prune dwarf trees. Bonsai trees grow more slowly than normal trees, so their yearly pruning doesn't have to be as heavy.

Cut branches correctly. Cut the branch obliquely above the bud located on the outside of the branch. Pruning at an angle allows water to drain quickly from the cut, and pruning over an externally located bud promotes the formation of a shoot that does not thicken the crown.

Cut out old shoots. In some varieties of apple, pear and plum trees, fruits are formed not on the largest branches, but on small branches extending from them. With a large thickening of the crown, cut out the oldest and least productive branches.

Keep and support the growth of branches in a horizontal direction. Upward branches give a strong increase, but their yield is lower than that of horizontal ones. Downward and hanging branches are the least productive, and the fruits on them receive less light. Support branch growth in a horizontal direction by cutting straight up or down shoots.

Pruning apple and pear

Pruning your young apple and pear trees so that the tree retains the central trunk (guide, main shoot) and branches away from it at a steep angle.

As the tree ages, the guide may bend under the weight of the fruit and shade the branches below. If this happens to your tree, cut upper part main escape. With this pruning, the illumination inside the crown will improve, and several new branches will begin to grow upwards to replace the removed leader shoot. If necessary, prune the upper parts of the lateral branches annually so that any part of the tree can be reached.

Plum

Plum trees have a bushy shape, so it is almost impossible to form a leader shoot tree from them. Do not try to remake nature, form a bowl-shaped crown in plum trees.

Japanese-American hybrids have stronger growth than European plums and should be pruned harder. As the tree ages, trim branches that are too close together and remove a small portion of the old branches each year. Keep the top of the crown open to create good light conditions for the lower branches. Cut branches that are too long and hanging to the ground.

peach, apricot pruning

These fruit trees are so strong growing that they require heavy pruning to produce good quality fruit annually. To obtain low trees that are easy to work with, it is recommended to cut the top of the crown. Also remove branches that grow close to the ground. Do not over-fertilize stone fruit fruit crops after pruning, otherwise they will replace the pruned branches with rapid growth. With excessive growth during the summer, these trees are more likely to be damaged in winter. Some gardeners prefer to prune peaches at the time of flowering to prevent cancer, which is mainly spread in cold weather.

Making cherry pruning

Young cherry trees form a tiered crown with a central conductor. Then, as the plants age, the leader shoot is cut out and a modified leader crown is obtained. Pruning cherries is done in the same way as peaches, but not as much. Excessive pruning of cherries can cause frost damage to the trees and shorten the life span of the cherry tree.

THREE TYPES OF CUTTING

1. Thinning.

Remove the entire branch by cutting it where it branches off a larger branch or trunk. Used infrequently as thinning does not encourage regrowth and reduces plant weight without affecting plant size. After thinning, the bush does not look so massive.

2. Non-selective cropping

Cut the branch at any point. Such pruning stimulates the growth of top shoots from dormant buds under the pruning site. Non-selective pruning makes the plants thicker and bushier, but does not reduce the size of the bush.
3. Selective (selective) cropping.
Cut the branch to a bud or to a side branch. Usually the diameter of the remaining lateral branch should be half the diameter of the removed shoot. Twigs with a diameter of 3 mm or less are cut into buds. This method of pruning allows you to reduce the height of the bush while maintaining its natural shape. Some shrubs tolerate strong selective pruning, others do not.

How to properly prune berry bushes.

BERRY SHRUBS - HOW TO CUT

Annual pruning of berry bushes allows you to keep the plants in a productive, healthy state and in good shape. Removing several old branches allows young, productive shoots to grow and creates better conditions for light to penetrate inside the bush (and this, in turn, leads to sweeter fruits due to improved photosynthesis) and air (reduces humidity, prevents the development of fungal diseases) . Do not regret those flower buds that you remove along with the shoots: the berries grown on the bush will be larger and tastier!

Grapevine - how to prune correctly

Pruning grapes should be done while the plants are dormant. If your area has cold winters, wait until the buds begin to swell in late winter or early spring; so, you can make sure that the shoots that you leave on the bush are alive. (Juice may drip from the vine, but this does not harm the plant.)

The vine is usually formed according to the pruning system into four lashes, leaving a trunk from which 4 horizontal annual shoots (vines) extend: 2 in each direction along a wire stretched at 2 levels. An annual shoot is a vine that has grown over the past growing season, and only annual shoots produce fruitful twigs. Annual shoots are smooth, reddish-brown and easily distinguished from older shoots with dark, scaly bark.

To ensure this year's harvest, select 4 vines branching near the trunk and extending in opposite directions: 2 - at the level of the upper trellis and 2 - at the level of the lower one. Most fruits are formed on an annual pencil-thick vine, where the distance between the nights is 15 cm.

Tie a ribbon around each vine you choose.

Then form rejuvenation shoots.

The buds on them will give shoots, the best of which you will select for fruit vines for the next year and they will provide you with a grape harvest.

To form rejuvenation shoots, pick up 4 branches extending close to the trunk. 2 - at the top trellis, 2 - at the bottom.
In this case, the age of the branches does not play a role, since each has buds at the base. Lay rejuvenation shoots, leaving branches with 2-3 buds on each knot.

Now proceed to the most “ruthless” pruning step: grit your teeth and remove all shoots from the vine, leaving only the trunk, 4 annual vines that you marked with tapes, and 4 knots for rejuvenation shoots. After that, cut the remaining vines to a length of about 1.5 m - a little longer if last year's growth is very strong, and a little shorter if last year's growth is weak.

Pruning raspberries and blackberries

With the exception of remontant varieties, the shoots of these crops usually form leaves in their first growing season, in the second - flowers and fruits.

Therefore, the first stage of pruning raspberries and blackberries is to remove all fruit-bearing shoots, which will die off anyway in the near future. Remove old branches immediately after harvest - in summer or next spring before the emergence of new shoots.

Pruning of blackberry raspberries, blackberries and common raspberries continues throughout the growing season. These plants form berries on side branches, which are stimulated by pinching off the tops when they reach about 0.9 m in height. Pinching strong varieties should be done at higher shoots, weak varieties are recommended to pinch at a lower height. Pinching several times a season as new shoots reach a height of 0.9m.

All other pruning on blackberries and raspberries is recommended when the plant is at rest. Form the culture so that the shoots grow in bunches. Remove the weakest from the previous year by cutting them at ground level.

It is advisable to shorten the stems of red and golden raspberries so that the fruits formed on them do not touch the ground. Cut the stems at a height of 1.5 m (or at the height of your raspberry supports). For blackberries and blackberry raspberries, the side branches should be 30-60 cm long. For raspberries with creeping shoots, stems 2 m long and side branches 30-60 cm long are left. After trimming the stems of raspberries or blackberries, tie them to a support.

Remontant varieties of red and golden raspberries open up more opportunities for you. If you are ready to forego the summer fruiting of the crop, then after harvesting in the fall, you can simply cut off all the shoots at soil level. New shoots that appear in the spring will produce berries by the end of summer.

A few tips for proper tree pruning to get more yield:

• In order to increase the yield of raspberries, in addition to watering and top dressing, we pinch the tops of plants 2 times a year: in June-July, when they reach a height of 1-1.2 m, and in August-September at a height of 1.8-2 m. To in winter, the plant will stop growing, get stronger and tolerate frost well. The following year, after harvesting, dry branches are cut. Remain grown and plucked young shoots, which in the spring turn into a lush bush. The yield increases by 2-3 times.
• When harvesting plums, cherries, etc. the simplest device that will allow you to get to the very top berries can do a good job. Tie a piece of a wide pipe with a wire to the end of a light stick, close it with a piece of gauze at the bottom, and sharpen the upper edge in the form of teeth.
• Keep the stems of red and golden raspberries off the ground. Shorten and tie up the left shoots
• The four vine pruning system may seem barbaric, but it produces large grapes.
• Annually remove the "tops" - upward shoots that grow in bunches around old cuts. These unproductive branches take the energy of the tree, obscure the ripening fruits and do not allow the sun's rays to penetrate into the crown.

10 golden rules for pruning your garden

1. Trim trees regularly, but never do this work in temperatures below -8°C.
2. Use a reliable ladder, a sharp and well-functioning tool.
3. Remove all dead and diseased branches, as well as dried and diseased fruits.
4. Be sure to disinfect the tool with which you worked with diseased plants with alcohol, otherwise you risk infecting healthy trees and bushes. Remember: a small pruning provokes a small growth of new shoots, and a strong one, on the contrary, is intense.
5. Create and maintain the desired shape of the plant's crown. When pruning branches growing in the same direction, remove the weak ones first, orient the strong ones to evenly occupy the space.
6. Orient the branches so that they come off the trunk at the right angle (45-60°).
7. Limit strong top growth in apple, pear, and stone fruit trees.
8. Remove old, poorly fruiting trees, replacing them with young ones.
9. Do not forget to regularly check the condition of the trunks and heal wounds.
10. Observe the reaction of the tree to pruning, use the experience gained in subsequent procedures.

Pruning garden trees - questions and answers

Many gardeners literally do not know which side to approach the tree from to shape it. Let's start with fundamental questions, the answers to which will help the gardener tune in and prepare for the upcoming pruning. This theoretical part must be remembered when approaching a tree with a pruner.

1. How does pruning affect the growth and fruiting of a tree?

Shortening regulates the number of awakened buds and the strength of shoot growth. With a strong shortening of annual branches, the length of the annual growth increases, but the total length of growths on the branch decreases compared to the unshortened branch. At the same time, the growth of shoots is delayed and there is a danger of their non-ripening and freezing. Therefore, a strong shortening is used in special cases - for example, when correcting appearance crowns. With weak shortening or without shortening, more buds are preserved, some of which, upon awakening, form shortened growths such as annuli and spears.

Branch bending moves the zone of awakening of the kidneys to the base of the branch. Branch bends to a vertical position enhance growth, to a horizontal position - fruiting. With arcuate bending, top-type shoots appear at the border of the bend and closer to the base of the branch, and fruiting, aging and drying intensify towards the top from the bend.

Interlacing, twisting, breaking and deformation of the branches is carried out to weaken their growth, increase the buds' excitability, and turn them into fruit formations. Such branches are short-lived, and they are used temporarily to obtain an early harvest.

Blinding of the kidneys is carried out in order to prevent the development of shoots in unwanted places of the crown.

Pinching (pinching) is used to regulate the force of shoot development, accelerate the end of its growth, lignification, and turn growth shoots into overgrown shoots.

2. How does the tree react to pruning?

Pruning changes the growth of branches locally. Shortening one branch or cutting into a ring does not enhance the growth processes of another branch, even a nearby one.

The shortening of all branches of the crown leads to a decrease in the volume of the above-ground system of the tree, and a well-developed root system activates the growth processes of all branches. As a result, many dormant buds awaken and tops form along the entire length of the branch in the volume of the entire crown. This method of pruning has a negative effect on the development of young trees and, on the contrary, has a positive effect on mature trees, especially those that have reduced shoot growth.

The crowns of young trees from heavy pruning are excessively thickened, additional cutting of branches is required. The constant restoration of the lost parts of the crown delays the formation of fruit formations and flower buds. Therefore, a strong pruning of trees during the period of crown formation delays the entry into the fruiting season for 3-5 years, and the fruits are formed many times less than without pruning.

Strong pruning of mature trees, especially neglected ones that have not been pruned for a long time, restores the balance between growth and fruiting, many strong shoots appear, which are necessary for the formation of the crop, the quality of the fruits improves and the resistance of the tree to pests and diseases and to adverse winter conditions increases.

The reaction of the branch to the degree of shortening is different (see Fig.). The larger part of the branch is removed, the more growth appears on the remaining branch. The ability to grow is also the stronger, the larger the diameter of the cut branch and the more vertical position it occupies in the crown.

Weak shortening of branches in young trees leads to strong branching along the periphery of the crown and the absence of overgrowing branches inside it. Therefore, although the annual weak shortening does not affect the entry of trees into the fruiting season, but with a slight appearance of overgrowing fruit formations, a small crop is formed. Weak shortening of adult trees does not contribute to the awakening of dormant buds inside the crown, while new overgrowing branches do not appear.

3. When to prune a tree?

The formation of young and rejuvenation of fruit-bearing trees in which growth is weakened, as well as restorative pruning (in order to restore the lost branches of the crown and the optimal ratio between growth and fruiting), is best done in early spring. With these types of pruning, growth is enhanced on the branches, which is stronger the earlier the pruning is carried out. This relationship is due to the fact that all the nutrient reserves accumulated in the roots and perennial parts of the tree are distributed among the remaining points of growth and fruiting.

With late pruning, when the buds have blossomed, all the reserve substances have already moved to the growth points, but they are removed with pruned branches, and the remaining buds have less reserve substances, therefore, the new shoot growth will be less. Nevertheless, this pruning period is used when reducing the height of the tree, thinning the crown, when strong restorative shoots (tops) are not needed, because they weaken the growth of the remaining branches and thicken the crown with powerful growth. Gardeners very rarely carry out late pruning. After all, when pruning during the period of swelling of the buds and flowering, many rings break off on the remaining branches, and during summer pruning, you have to remove the branches with the harvest.

The pruning time is determined by the use of its types and methods. Therefore, it is carried out at all times of the year, but the main one is in early spring, before the buds swell. Late autumn and winter pruning is carried out only in areas where there is no extreme cold, otherwise there is a danger of damage to the bark and wood in places of cuts by frost or sunburn.

In summer, pinching of shoots is carried out, which, according to their location in the crown, should become overgrown with fruit-bearing ones, and they do not require strong growth. They also remove the tops that appear in the area of ​​large cuts when pruning the central conductor and reducing the height of the trees.

4. How to cut correctly?

Shortening thin branches is carried out with a secateurs, and thick ones with a garden hacksaw. A cut of a branch (last year's shoot) on a bud is carried out in such a way that the cut plane in the upper part passes above the bud, and in the lower part - at the level of the base of the bud.

When cutting large branches on the trunk, it is also necessary to follow the cut rule. At the base of the branch there is an influx, along which the branch is cut. You can not make a cut parallel to the trunk, in this case a large oval wound is formed, which will take longer and poorly overgrow. The cut should not be cut perpendicular to the trunk, as a stump will remain at the bottom of the cut, which can rot.

Sometimes there is no annular influx, especially in branches with an acute angle of origin. In order to correctly determine the place of the cut, two lines are mentally drawn - one parallel to the trunk, the second perpendicular to the branch being removed, and a cut is made along the line dividing the formed angle in half.

When cutting large branches, as a rule, they do not leave stumps, since many top-type shoots form on them, which will have to be constantly removed, and the stump will also need to be cut off over time. The stump (protective link) is left in rare cases - for example, if winter pruning is carried out and there is a danger of freezing of the bark and wood near the cut, but in the spring the stump is removed anyway. Or if a thicker branch is cut to transfer to a less thick branch (this situation may occur when the central conductor is removed), but after thickening the branch, the stump is also cut out. This operation is carried out after 2-3 years, but at this time it is necessary to monitor the condition of the hemp. So that it does not dry out, it is necessary to leave several small branches on it and constantly shorten them, preventing them from growing strongly. Otherwise, all nutrition will switch to their growth, and the lateral branch to which the transfer was made will weaken in growth.

When shortening overgrown branches, pay attention to their condition: remove weaker, less productive ones.

How to cover up wounds after pruning a tree?

After trimming the branches, the wounds are putty. As a putty, garden pitch, petrolatum, paints on vegetable drying oil, as well as various mixtures are used. Along the periphery of the crown, shortened branches up to 3 cm in diameter are usually not glossed over.

Do-it-yourself tree pruning in the garden - sharing experience

When and how to prune

pruning garden trees- this is individual creativity, this is art. And all in order to provide each leaflet with unhindered access to the sun and at the same time form a beautiful and convenient crown for harvesting.

Left a stump - get a spinning top

It is believed that the optimal time for pruning trees and shrubs is early spring. We all know: at the end of frost, plants tolerate it better and with early sap flow, all sections, large and small, are drawn faster.

Formative pruning of fruit trees - apple trees, pears - I spend as soon as the snow melts. But even in the fall, you can remove the intersecting branches that have grown over the summer and cover the sections with garden pitch.

Harvesting an apple tree at the end of summer, I always pay attention to which branches are heavily shaded, which had no fruit.

In order not to forget, I cut down such branches, leaving stumps 10-15 cm high. In the spring, I remove these stumps on a ring and cover the sections with garden pitch. If you forget to cut off the stump left in the fall in the spring, 5-6 tops will grow on it, which will thicken the apple tree even more, shade it from the light.

Pruning berry bushes - black and red currants, as well as gooseberries - usually comes down to removing old broken branches, as well as those that, in spring, after the snow shrinks, fall to the very the base of the bush, straight to the ground.

In the spring, at the end of March, I always sprinkle ashes near the currant and gooseberry bushes so that the snow melts faster and the branches break less from the settled snow. So at the same time the soil under the berry bushes is also fertilized.

With age, thickened branches in the crown, as well as damaged and drying branches, should be cut.

I do sanitary pruning in March. I cover the wounds with garden pitch. I carry out restoration pruning after large freezing.

I lead such pruning in late dates to determine the border of wood regrowth - at the end of May.

Technique for cutting a branch to a side branch with a large angle: 1 - the cut is correct; 2-3 - the cuts are wrong - hemp is left.

Trimming methods:

• clipping on a ring of an annual branch;
• clipping on the ring of a two-year branch;
• shortening of an annual branch;
• shortening of a two-year branch.

Approximately with such methods I advise you to do pruning of trees in the garden.

It's time to refresh!

Now about feeding fruit trees. After abundant fruiting, they are noticeably depleted.

I think they should be helped immediately after the harvest.

Under young fruit trees, I make a furrow around the crown. I add 90-100 g of superphosphate to it, scatter a half-liter jar of ash and a bucket of well-rotted mullein manure. And under the apricot - also a bucket of rotted mullein manure, 100-150 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium salt. For mature trees in the area trunk circle I fertilize much more and be sure to cultivate all the soil under the crown. Under an apple or pear tree, I make grooves along a circumference 35-40 cm deep, with the help of a hewn wooden stake I make indentations in each hole for another 30-40 cm, and I pour expanded clay into these indentations - for better passage of fertilized water. In these recesses I lay rotten manure mixed with earth and ash. Thus, the roots of the apple tree will grow towards moist, fertilized soil and nourish the entire plant.

I want to say that with the correct, competent application of fertilizers, both organic and mineral, the quality of the soil does not deteriorate, and the resulting products are all environmentally friendly.

Features of winter tree pruning

Glancing at the thermometer outside the window, I increasingly think about global warming. It is not the first year that nature has presented us with various weather surprises.

Many folk omens that have worked for hundreds of years have lost their relevance. For the last two years, the temperature cycle has been shifted by almost a month - the third decade of December without snow and with a daily temperature of + 6-9.

The tree does not have a time counter, it reacts exclusively to temperature: cold - we sleep, warm - we wake up and grow.

I'll give you an example.

In the autumn of 2010, there was a climatic failure: in early October, there was a sharp cooling with frosts, and two weeks later the thermometer again rose to +15°С. As a result, some trees managed to bloom. It is clear that there could be no talk of a full-fledged, rich harvest - the coming winter cold destroyed the fruit buds, and new fruits could only be planted next summer. Only a small part, like a consolation prize, was able to survive and give a small harvest.

Violation of the temperature cycle concerns not only the autumn prolonged in time - winter can also move and capture part of March. Already several times in recent years we have witnessed a "shortened" spring, when the transition from winter cold to summer heat is reduced to a few weeks instead of two or three months.

Why am I bringing this issue to your attention? It's about the time we spend on everything dacha work generally. In addition to the garden, there is also a garden - the main internal competitor in terms of labor costs. A quick and shortened spring forces us to shift our attention and throw all our efforts into planting garden crops. And garden work is either carried out in an accelerated mode, or postponed altogether. Therefore, using winter time for the main pruning of the garden is the best solution in this situation.

In fact, winter pruning is not much different from spring pruning.

But some important rules need to be known and understood. Firstly, winter pruning is not carried out at 100% of the crown volume. What is meant? No matter how warm the winter is in general, no one can cancel the February frosts. Therefore, fine finishing pruning will still have to be carried out only in the spring. Otherwise, techniques such as "on the outer kidney" are doomed to failure. Freshly cut tips of thin twigs will inevitably freeze and will not justify our hopes. As for the removal of large, including skeletal branches, this also has its own characteristics. A branch more than 20 mm thick in winter is cut not into a “ring”, but with an indent of 5-10 cm. Many will be outraged by such a clear violation of the classic pruning rules - knots have no right to life.

I want to reassure you right away: this is not the final phase of pruning, but only an intermediate stage. The reason for this temporary violation of the rules is as follows. We all saw on the trunks and thick branches healed places after the removal of the branches in the form of a kind of "navel". They are formed as a result of a gradual "influx" of the bark roller directly to the place where the branch was cut. In turn, the cambium is responsible for building up the cortex. But in order for the cambium to fulfill its building mission, it must be alive. If we remove the branch, as it should be according to the rules, “on the ring”, the February cold will freeze this cut along with the cambium, the ion will remain open forever, regardless of size. Over time, radial cracks will appear through which, like through open doors, various pathogenic microorganisms can penetrate. First of all, these are spores of the tinder fungus. It can be called a kind of "invisible lumberjack",

since the visual signs of its penetration into the body of the tree become visible only after the scales of the fungus sprout on the trunks or branches. This means that the core of the branch has already been attacked, the tinder spore cycle has completed, and the takeover of your garden continues. These are the unfortunate consequences for your trees that unscarred cuts can entail.

But a margin of several centimeters will not allow killing the cambium along the entire length of the left knot, and it will successfully overwinter. And as soon as the cold ends, the time will come for the second, final stage of pruning. Now, with a clear conscience, we can finish the work we started in the winter. We carefully cut off the knots, and the sap flow that began with the arrival of heat will enable the cambium to successfully build up a cow roller, which over time will completely “seal” this place.

About garden var

It is necessary to mention one more operation performed after pruning - the processing of cuts with garden pitch. There are also several opinions about this procedure. Most often, it is recommended to apply the var immediately after pruning. I used to follow this rule too. But for several years now I have been doing this a few days after I cut the branches. Why? The fact is that a branch can be conditionally represented as a bundle of many microscopic sap-carrying channels.

When we cut a branch, we sort of open them. The most reliable way to clog them will be the natural drying of the surface. And these are not theoretical assumptions, but the result of practical observations. The higher the average daily temperature, the stronger the earth warms up and the more intense the flow of sap. And in the case when the var is applied "in a rich", thick layer, under the influence of heating it is deformed, slightly rising above the surface. Under this "hat" moisture, which has nowhere to evaporate - ideal conditions for the growth of various spore cultures.

For those who doubt, I suggest doing a simple experiment at home. Take a beetroot, cut it in half and wrap the cut in clingfilm. Then hide it, and in a few days you will find mold, slime or something like that under the film. This does not happen on dry surfaces.

Therefore, I let the cuts dry for several days, and after that I apply var thin layer. By the way, the knots to be removed do not need to be processed. In winter, everything sleeps, and spores also cannot grow intensively on an open surface.

FEATURES OF CUTTING STONE CROPS

Cherry pruning should be carried out taking into account the characteristics of fruiting. There are bush-like and tree-like cherries. Bushy cherries differ from tree-like ones not in the shape of the crown (in the form of a bush or tree), but in fruiting on the growth of the previous year. This growth has a growth apical bud, and all lateral buds are flowering. After fruiting the following year, this growth becomes bare. So every year the length of the bare branch increases, and through

6-8 years of fruiting, a large number of long branches without overgrowing branches can be noted on the tree. Tree-like cherries have bouquet branches, and their crowns are not bare to the same extent as those of bushy forms. According to the predominant type of fruiting, bushy cherries include Vladimirskaya, Zagoryevskaya, Lyubskaya varieties, tree-like ones - Zhukovskaya, Molodezhnaya, Bagryanay, Volochaevskaya.

The ratio of flowering and vegetative (growth) buds depends on the strength of shoot growth. In bushy varieties, on shoots up to 20 cm long, only flower buds and only apical growth buds are formed, with a length of 30-40 cm, lateral buds can also be growth buds, and with a length of more than 40 cm, growth buds are predominantly formed.

In tree-like varieties of cherries, on shoots larger than 30 cm, mainly growth buds are formed, from which bouquet branches and new shoots are formed next year. On short shoots, only flower buds are formed.

The crown of cherries develops well even in the nursery and does not require special formation rules when planting in the garden. The stem is formed at a height of 40 cm (lower than that of an apple tree) in order to place the main and overgrown branches closer to the soil. Cherry branches and especially flower buds are less winter-hardy than apple trees, and if they are closer to the ground, part of them is covered with snow and preserved from freezing.

Prior to fruiting, pruning is minimal. Only broken branches, competitors and top-type vertical branches are removed. Sharp forks on large branches subordinate. With weak branching, the branches (shoots of the last year) are shortened by 1/3 or half the length.

Fruiting trees of vigorous varieties reach a height of 4-5 m, and they are reduced according to the same principle as apple trees. Remove the central conductor and vertically growing branches in the upper part of the crown. After lowering, the height of the trees should be no more than 2.5-3 m. Inside the crown, long bare branches are removed.

On the periphery of the crown, anti-aging pruning is carried out. Shortened for transfer to a strong lateral branch, which has overgrown branches with strong growths. In tree varieties, shortening can also be carried out on bouquet branches. In the lower part of the crown, sagging branches are cut to transfer to a lateral branch growing vertically, and in the upper part of the crown - vertically growing branches to transfer to a horizontally located branch or directed downwards.

PLUM

According to the type of fruiting, plum varieties are divided into three groups. In the first group (East Chinese, Ussuri, Canadian and American species), fruiting is formed according to the type of bushy cherries on annual growths. In the second group of cultivars (European), spurs are formed, and fruiting proceeds according to the type of tree-like cherries. In the third group of varieties, the type of fruiting is mixed. In connection with this similarity in fruiting, the formation and pruning of crowns is carried out in the same way as for cherries, and you can also apply pruning elements recommended for apple trees.

The crown of a plum is less thickened than that of a cherry, and in development it is more like an apple tree. Therefore, in early age the plum crown is formed like a cherry, and during the fruiting period, pruning is carried out according to the same principle as apple trees.

ADVANTAGES OF A SMALL CROWN

On stone fruit crops it is possible to form small-sized flat

crowns designed for apple and pear. Photo 1 shows the stages of the formation of such a crown.

At the fruiting age, pruning is reduced to the removal of vertical shoots and branches inside and at the top of the crown (photo 2). The cherry tree, formed in the form of a flat crown, at the age of 30 was 2.7 m high (photo H).

Cherry varieties, especially early ones, are largely damaged by birds. Crowns of small sizes can be covered with a fine-mesh net used in the repair of buildings.

Varieties of stone fruit crops differ in the type of fruiting and not all are suitable for the formation of small-sized flat crowns. Only those varieties are suitable in which bouquet branches (cherry, sweet cherry) and spurs (plum) are formed in large numbers on the branches of the second order of branching. All varieties of apricot and cherry plum have only one type of fruiting (on annual branches of the second order of branching), and it is possible to form a small-sized flat crown.

HOW TO INCREASE YIELD WITH GROWTH REGULATORS

Orta stone fruit crops differ in the degree of fruit set: self-fertile, partially self-fertile, self-fertile. There is experience in increasing fruit set by spraying auxins during the flowering period.

Experiments over 2 years showed that not all varieties responded to the same degree to the treatment that was carried out at the beginning of flowering.

Compared with the control, when processing cherries of the Molodezhnaya variety, the setting increased by 6.8%, Turgenevskaya - by 5.1%, Bagrynaya - by 7.4% in one year, and there was no effect in the other. There was no effect on the varieties Bulatnikovskaya, Rastorguevskaya, Chereshnevidnaya. In the plum of the Egg blue variety, in one year the setting increased by 18.8%, in another there was no effect, in the sweet cherry of the Fatezh variety, the setting increased by 24.9%.

The noted unstable efficiency of fruit set by variety and year is due, in our opinion, to the fact that not all flowers bloom simultaneously and the flowering period lasts up to 10 days, and the treatment could not coincide with the time of the flower fertilization process. In our opinion, the treatment should be carried out three times: the first - at the beginning of flowering, when the first flowers appear, again every 2 days.

How to prune a columnar apple tree ...

How to cut frozen and old ...

The main goal of pruning fruit trees in the garden is the ratio as well as the most complete exchange of nutrients necessary for the tree for fruiting and growth between the root system on one side and the crown on the other.

Among the crown formation methods, usually 2 are distinguished (if we are talking about decorative pruning, you can add a few more, but this is material for another article for which we will definitely find a place on vsaduidoma.ru later).

1. Shortening - that is, in fact, the removal of any parts of the branch
2. Thinning is when entire branches are removed to form the correct crown.

What does cropping give when using the shortening method? It is very simple - when shortening a tree, it both gives birth to new buds and awakens old ones, the so-called sleeping ones.

Thinning, as a method of pruning, is more correct to use when the crown is too thick, there is little light on the fruits, because of which they lose their taste, their beneficial features, and what is important not only for summer residents, but also for farmers - presentation.

Optimal is such a thinning pruning, in which the crown of the tree becomes, as it were, translucent, openwork, with a slight shading, and not a dark spot.

What is shaping pruning and when should it be done?

After planting new seedlings in the garden, they should be at rest for some time - everything, of course, depends on the type of seedlings - more on that below) in the first season they should not be cut at all, except perhaps when you see that a separate branch can cause some kind of seedling It's obviously irreparable damage.

For the next season or after 2 years, when the seedling has taken root and successfully overwintered, it is already possible to proceed to the so-called "forming crown pruning". It is done, first of all, for the convenience of collecting fruits, as well as caring for a tree, and as a rule, unless otherwise intended, it is made low. When working on the formation of the crown, I try to cut the trees so that from the top step of my highest garden stepladder I can easily reach most of the branches.

The simplest and most common form is the sparse-tiered one familiar to many. It consists of tiers of skeletal branches that extend from the main trunk, and one main conductor, or as it is also called the "leader".

When pruning trees in orchard must be kept simple, but important rule. It consists in the so-called subordination of branches. That is, the lower branches should always be thicker than the upper ones. You can deviate from this rule only by carrying out decorative pruning, over trees that you value little and, for example, make a garden on trellises.

For the next season, choose the shoot that has developed the most by doing general pruning it needs to be made thirty percent longer than the rest, the so-called "skeletal" branches.

After that, move on to shortening other strong branches, those that diverge from the main tree trunk at an angle of less than 90 degrees.

On the first tier of the tree, leave 2-3 skeletal branches extending from the tree trunk at an angle of forty-five degrees. At the same time, make sure that the tops of such branches are cut “under one”, that is, they must be on the same level.

The next tier should be 50-65 centimeters from the other. As a rule, the formation of the crown is carried out correctly and is considered complete when the main branches are left on the tree, and branches of the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th levels are on them.

What is the "transfer of branches to bear fruit" and how to do it correctly

This is done so that the remaining branches after such pruning begin to bear fruit sooner.

To do this, you need to remove the tops that appear (see the dictionary), which will constantly grow where the largest branches were removed.

In addition, in order for new branches to grow horizontally, flower buds are laid on them and fruits appear, unnecessary shoots are cut into a developed side branch, and first-year shoots are cut into an external bud.

For the same, on young fruit trees at the beginning of the summer season, carefully bend one and two-year-old branches of the 1st, and then the 2nd tiers to the bottom and secure with a rope or tourniquet.

What is trimming and how to do it

To maintain the normal fruiting of trees in the garden, branches need to be cut annually. Take this as a basic rule - this is not a one-time job.

The main difference in the process of pruning old fruit-bearing trees from those planted relatively recently is that in old ones, the branches are shortened to a shorter length. This is understandable - many fruit trees have relatively short term life and even shorter active fruiting, and vitality old trees are no longer the same. To this it is also worth adding the damage from frost, poor ecology, diseases and pests.

The main skeletal branches that have grown by 60 or more centimeters must be cut to 30% of the original length, shoots and processes are simple - they are cut into three buds.

If one of the branches grows stronger than the others, then in order not to harm the tree, its growth must be restrained, observing the already aforementioned rule of “subordination of branches”.

The top of the tree crown should be cut off when thinning more, while the branches that are located on the main branch-leader at the first and second levels should be completely removed.

How to carry out sanitary pruning of fruit trees in the garden

Fruit trees, especially peaches and apricots, often freeze at the end of winter. Sanitary pruning brings affected plants back to life, helping not to waste nutrients to the awakening of buds on dying branches.

In order to understand which branches need to be removed, they are carefully cut. If the wood is light or light green - the branch is healthy, if it is light brown - it is frozen, brown color indicates its death. Dying and damaged branches should be taken out of the garden and burned or crushed and used for compost.

Anti-aging pruning

To stimulate the growth of branches of aging trees with small fruits and an annual growth of less than 30-35 cm, all growth over the past few years is removed on them:

with weak rejuvenation, 2-3-year-old wood is cut;

with moderate - 4-5 years old;

with a strong - 6-8-year-old.

General pruning rules - to summarize what has been said

We mentioned above that a tree suffers from a lack of sunlight. To what has been said, one can add only that which is more difficult and general care behind a tree - for example, spraying: it is difficult for a solution of pesticides to penetrate the curtain from the net of young shoots.

Leave the distance between the extreme branches of the 1st and 2nd tier not less than 60-75 centimeters, 2nd and 3rd 25-25 centimeters.

The smaller the angle of those branches that you plan to leave and that move away from the leader, the greater the load they can withstand (applies to both snow and wind, and crops). Therefore, it is preferable to leave inflows extending from the main one by a degree not less than 45.

Branches growing towards the center of the tree crown must always be removed. You also need to do with parallel branches growing upwards.

The removal of the so-called "sprouts-tops" should also be done constantly, especially pay attention to those that have grown at the base of large branches and near the main trunk of the tree (straight from the ground).

Figure 1: Pruning scheme: A - bad placement, B - good placement for the first tier, C - good placement for the first and second tiers.

Trimming types

How to prune a tree on the so-called "outer bud"

Unnecessary, superfluous one-year layers are pruned to the outer kidney. This is the name of the kidney, which is located on the outside of the new shoots.

This must be done to ensure the correct growth of branches in a horizontal direction, resulting in an increase in the yield of fruits and fruits.

A - right, at an angle of 45 °, B - wrong, too deep, the kidney will dry out, C - wrong, a stump-thorn is left.

How to cut into a ring.

Extra large branches are cut out “on the ring”, without leaving a stump, otherwise a bunch of unnecessary shoots will come out of it or it will die off and become a place for the formation of a hollow: G - right, D - wrong, a stump is left, E - wrong, an annular influx is cut off. Thick branches are cut off, having previously filed them from the underside: W - wrong, 3 - right.

Figure 2: External bud and ring pruning views

Features of the formation and pruning of different crops

Pome fruit pruning begins in February, when the danger of severe frosts has passed, at a temperature not lower than -2-4 ° C. At lower temperatures, the wood becomes brittle and it is impossible to make even cuts. The best time for pruning stone fruits is the end of March-April.

How to prune pome fruits - apple and pear

Usually, in young pome trees, the annual growth is 30-50 cm, in stone fruits - 70-100 cm. If it is less, the trees need to be rejuvenated.

Apple tree

Pruning depends on the characteristics of the variety and, of course, on the strength of growth and rootstock:

on strong and medium-sized rootstocks, the crown is formed according to a sparse-tiered system;

on medium-sized ones - in the form of a spindle-like bush;

on dwarfs - in the form of a slender spindle or palmette on trellises.

When growth is weakened to 20-25 cm, the tree is rejuvenated every 3-4 years for 2-3-year-old wood, with a decrease in fruiting, for 4-6-year-old wood.

Pear

(also read about pear pruning and crown formation)

Formed with a compressed crown and a strong central conductor. The main technique for a pear is thinning and shortening to the outer kidneys. On trees grafted on vigorous rootstocks, the branches are shortened by 1/3-1/2 of the length of the annual growth, and the branches on the skeletal branches are moderately 1/5 of the length to avoid excessive branching. Pears grafted on quince are formed in the form of a bowl, cutting out the central conductor.

Proper pruning of stone fruits - plums, cherry plums, cherries

Considering the strong thickening of the crowns and the fruiting characteristics of stone fruits, the main method of pruning is thinning.

Cherries

Young trees with an increase of up to 1 m per year are shortened by 50%. The sparsely-tiered crown of the sweet cherry is formed from 5-6 branches: in the lower tier, on the branches of the first order, 2-3 branches of the 2nd order are laid at recommended intervals of 50 centimeters.

Formed trees are pruned weakly, limited to thinning. Remember, sweet cherries bear fruit on bouquet branches that form on old wood, which means thinning is the best technique.

Cherry

Annual sanitary pruning of the crown is carried out by shortening and thinning. Cherry bears fruit on annual growths of the vegetative type, which means that the growth is shortened only if it reaches 40 cm. The main pruning method is thinning.

Also below in the photo we offer you, dear gardeners, to see several types of pruning of trees and shrubs in the garden for the most important, three-year growth cycle.

Pruning a garden - types and methods

It is she who helps to achieve a balance between the process of fruiting and the growth of fruit trees. In this case, the degree of pruning primarily depends on the type of rootstock. The basic rule: the branches of the "giants" on vigorous rootstocks are shortened only slightly or not touched at all. But trees grafted onto low-growing rootstocks are always pruned heavily (see the figure on the right).
As a rule, a tree on a low-growing rootstock is formed in the form of a spindle-shaped bush. With this shape of the crown, all branches extending from the central conductor are oriented horizontally or slightly elevated.
Important: in the first year after planting, the branches in the upper part of the crown are shortened more than in the lower part (see the figure below on the left). Trees on vigorous rootstocks, as a rule, are grown in the form of a semi-stem with a spherical crown. In order to form it, several powerful skeletal branches of the first order, evenly spaced around the trunk, are left, directed rather steeply upwards. Later, they will overgrow with fruit twigs and sink under their own weight.
1. Heavy pruning encourages very vigorous new shoot growth and the development of long side branches with many flower buds.
2. If you remove only the tops of the branches, the growth of young shoots will be weak. After such pruning, mostly short side branches will appear.

• In the first year side shoots shorten so that the crown acquires pyramidal shape. Next year, remove all vertically growing shoots. But do not cut the central conductor and side branches!
• Please select when purchasing young plant with 3-4 powerful skeletal branches. After planting, remove all vertical shoots growing inside the crown. Shorten the skeletal branches and the central conductor so that they are approximately at the same level. In this case, the central shoot should rise above the side shoots by about 10 cm.
• • Top: Heavy pruning encourages very vigorous new shoot growth and the development of long side branches with many flower buds.
  • Bottom: If only the tops of the branches are removed, the growth of young shoots will be weak. After such pruning, mostly short side branches will appear.

Choosing a pruning tool

It's time for spring pruning of trees and shrubs.

In the southern regions, this time comes a little earlier, until March, during the dormant period of plants. To the north, pruning is carried out later, until the beginning of flowering. There are many advantages to such a late pruning in the northern regions, for example, trees cut later recover faster after a harsh winter. It is worth preparing in advance for seasonal work and purchasing the right tool. But many face difficulties when choosing in a store or garden center - the modern assortment is so diverse. How to choose the right tool for cropping will be discussed in this article.

At first for garden pruning trees, you will need three tools: a simple pruner - for near branches, a meter pruner - for medium shoots in eight to ten years old trees, and a long pruner for removing branches at a height.

Pruning shears

When choosing a secateurs, first of all, pay attention to its type. A simple guillotine-type pruner is designed like scissors. Another type of pruner, more powerful, is a contact. With such a tool, the knife rests against the receiving part, as a result, more force is pressed. But does this mean that a contact pruner is preferable? It depends on your goals. So, with a pruner with intersecting blades, it is easy to cut thin branches, as well as cut them into a ring, that is, without hemp. It is good to remove thicker knots, up to 3 cm, with a contact pruner, as well as shorten the branches, but you cannot get to the base of the shoot with such a tool - a stump remains, which is unacceptable during pruning. So which of the two types do you prefer? For starters, you can stop at a guillotine-type pruner or purchase both tools, depending on the tasks at hand.

The second issue that the gardener faces is the choice of pruner body. It comes in aluminum and plastic. The first is more reliable, will withstand a more serious load. Plastic secateurs are also quite good, depending on the quality of production.

Pay attention to the design of the spring: the more complex it is, the more expensive the tool, but such a pruner can break faster. A simple rule applies here: the simpler the design, for example with a removable spring, the better. A defective spring can always be replaced with a new one.

Important when choosing a secateurs and the thickness of the blade. It is better to prefer a product with thin blades, about 2 - 2.5 cm. It will be much easier to work with such a tool.

We also look at the quality of metal hardening. As a rule, the quality of steel from reputable manufacturers is high, such a pruner will last a long time. Hard hardened steel is brittle and knives are hard to sharpen. Weak hardening is the reason for bending secateurs that quickly become dull.

Garden shears or pruner

Usually designed for use with both hands, their handles can be from 30 to 90 cm long, form a convenient lever and are telescopic (retractable). The design can be guillotine and contact type, as well as with amplifiers (ratchet mechanism). Guillotine loppers leave a nice clean cut and are suitable for live wood. A lopper with interlocking blades pushes more than it cuts, so it is more suitable for trimming dry, dead branches.

Knot garden saw

Knots with a thickness of more than 3 cm will help to remove a garden saw. The main thing you need to pay attention to when choosing a saw is the sharpening of the tooth. When pruning trees, the quality of the cut is important. A saw with a plain tooth beveled to one side produces a rough cut that will require additional trimming.

A good garden saw should have a tooth with an additional bevel - the wound after cutting with such a tool will heal much faster. On sale there are saws with a trihedral sharpening and with holes on the blade. This design provides a clean and easy cut.

The handle of a garden saw should be with a convenient rounding, such a handle device reduces fatigue when performing work. It can also be reinforced with a metal plate.

The choice of garden saws is large, so be guided by the price that suits you and its quality.

Who's the last one to CUT?

In order for all the green pets in the garden to look like brave guardsmen, you need to “take” them to the “hairdresser” regularly and in strict order. Is there no such specialist? How not? What are you on? Read and master the right gardening profession.

And how she jumps!

From childhood I learned that any gardener without patience is nowhere. But I read an article where the author, in particular, complained that young cherries did not grow in him. Yes, this happens often, and, of course, not only with this fruit crop. I'll tell you how I managed to negotiate with my "thinking" pear.

I bought it on the market: a late variety, a healthy seedling, even, without damage. When planting, she did everything as it should: she fertilized the hole, shed it, sprinkled the roots of the tree, slightly compacted the earth and watered it again. Only grow!

By the way, pears are very fond of water, and they bloom only when their roots grow so long that they themselves can get moisture from the depths.

And here my pear sits for two, three, four, five, six years ... I constantly fed her all the time, weeded around her, loosened, dug, and at least she would have henna. Finally, unable to stand it, I decided to transplant it to another corner of the garden. But, since I already knew that young trees should be planted on the growing Moon and on the fertile days of Leo, Aries and Sagittarius, I prepared everything in advance and began to wait for a convenient time. I waited. And on the new moon, cutting off the frail stem (leaving only 11 cm above the graft), I planted the pear in a well-filled hole. It was in the fall of 2015.

And what do you think? Over the next summer, the tree suddenly jumped as much as 54 cm! And in 2017, the pear turned out to be already more than a meter high, and it grew two trunks at once, one of which, however, I removed this early spring so that the tree does not spray its strength. And now I will form a pear so that it develops not only upwards, but also in breadth - I want to make its crown rounded, since tall “thin” trees are harder to maintain (and you also suffer with harvesting) ..

So, dear, pinch on the fruitful day on the new moon (or two days before the new moon) those branches on your cherry that you have already cut. And next early spring, before the buds open, pour it from the crown to the ground with a life-giving solution of urea (400 g per bucket of water). By this means, by the way, it is good to process all berry bushes, and apple trees will be grateful for such top dressing. And as for the cherry specifically, it loves mulch, dry ash and celandine to grow under it. If all this does not help, you, Anatoly Andreevich, will have to transplant the tree to another place. Just not next to the apple tree - they are not so hot as friends. Well, if everything goes well, then switch your attention to the correct and timely pruning. By the way, can I now tell you everything I know about her? Yes, I probably will. Moreover, among the readers of "Dacha" there will certainly be many who would like to clarify this issue for themselves. For example, in No. 2 for this year, Elena Stanislavovna Goryunova, in the article “In one fell swoop”, was interested in “cutting” the apple tree.

Song about rabbits

I will tell you about my experience of pruning both on an adult tree and on eight-year-olds.

The former owners of the site left me an autumn apple tree, which certainly changed its third decade. And in the season before last, her branches began to dry out, and the bark began to peel off. In short, she was bent, cordial. And her fruits are very tasty, large, the pulp is creamy, sweet and sour, in moderation. It's a pity to lose such kindness.

And I started looking for advice on how to be here. And the answer was found, and even in several versions - in letters about the fight against bacterial burns. Indeed, according to all the signs described by readers, it was precisely such a misfortune that happened to my apple tree. I cut down all the diseased branches, leaving only a branched trunk, and treated all the cuts with metronidazole (spread 10 tablets in a bucket of water).

And the disease subsided, because the next summer, new shoots began to grow on the cut sites. A little later, she appeared on the main trunk - good, strong.

I think that this summer it will be possible to form a crown already, having precisely determined what to cut and what to leave (after all, you also need to thicken in moderation). And to you, dear Elena Stanislavovna, I advise you to leave the best branch on the apple tree, and cut down all the rest to the ground, but only necessarily on the new moon and on a fertile day. And do not forget at least occasionally to water this unfortunate apple tree under the root.

And now about eight-year-old trees and their pruning.

A few years ago, the winter turned out to be snowy, cold, so hungry bunnies ate their bark, and on such a scale that they completely killed one. The rest I decided to save. I started by sawing off all the tops of them, leaving only the “columns” that did not suffer, as they were under the snow (later they asked me for a long time why I poked sticks in the garden).

Spring, meanwhile, was gaining momentum, and the "columns", to my joy, came to life: they released small buds, from which young twigs then violently climbed. And now my sufferers are already full-fledged trees again, and some of them even began to bear fruit.

By the way, with the help of cardinal pruning, currant bushes can also be updated: in early spring or very late autumn, cut them off level with the ground, cover them with fertile soil, and on top - with fallen leaves.

And then, by the end of next summer, you, dear readers, will grow a healthy young bush, which next year will already give good harvest. This has been verified more than once by me and my neighbors (and they are all excellent, hard-working and intelligent people). But, of course, I do all pruning (we are even talking about removing individual extra branches) only on the waning moon or four days after the full moon (and not on the days of Cancer, Scorpio and Pisces), since this is a “wet” time, and wounds on plants, they heal so badly (all cuts immediately begin to “cry”) that some weak “patients” may even die. And with the waning moon, the cut branch will not give growth very soon (or will not give it at all), which means that thickening does not threaten.

Scourge in a cage

So, she said about the apple tree, cherry and pear. The plum remained, because it also has its own special quirks. For example, Galina Nikolaevna Kozlova in the note " garden problems"Complained that she did not understand why she refuses to bear fruit. Yes, sometimes loosening and adding organics is not enough. Personally, in such cases, in early spring and late autumn, I spray the tree with a solution of iron sulfate, and two weeks after that with urea. I also do root dressing: in 3 liters of water I dilute 70 g of ammopho-ski and 1 liter of fermented grass. Plum generally likes to be soft near its trunk, and therefore the mulch for it is the first thing.

Let me tell you more about the blackberry. My daughter and I made a “cage” for her 1.2 m high from wooden bars, and now I put all the regrown lashes on the crossbars and braid them - it turns out a green basket. And I pinch only those that grow up to 3 m. For the winter, I take off all the lashes, tie them lightly in separate bundles, cover them with burlap, corn stalks, spruce branches and sprinkle with earth.

But before that, first I always water the bushes abundantly, bring in manure, liquid fertilizer(40 g of ammophoska and superphosphate per bucket of water), I cover with fresh mulch.

And then the blackberry hibernates without problems, in the spring the green foliage even remains on the lashes. In the new season, I repeat everything: I remove the old blackened whips, I braid the young ones again. By the way, I want to thank L. A. Zauzolkov, who in his article “Vaccination with clothespins” suggested advice - to do pinching during vaccinations. Indeed, a good idea!

With the help of readers' advice, I cured gum disease and my apricot - mustard from a jar, which I lubricated the wounds, turned out to be a miracle cure!

KOP1 Albina QUIET

Hot Selling 10pcs/pack lotus seeds bonsai hydroponic trees aquatic ... : Pruning trees and shrubs in ...: Proper formation of the pear crown when ...

The process of pruning fruit trees has many goals, the main of which are: care, activation of growth and development processes, as well as protection from diseases. But the most important task, of course, is to increase the quantity and quality of the crop. However, positive results can be achieved only when pruning is done technically correctly, with high-quality garden tools, and most importantly, in a timely manner. The article will talk about correct pruning fruit trees.

When to prune fruit trees

For each of the species and age of fruit trees, there is its own - the most suitable period for pruning. The ranges of the procedure can be conditionally divided into several.

• autumn-winter. Pruning is carried out immediately after the complete fall of the leaf cover and the end of the movement of tree sap. This period is also called rest time. On the one hand, it is believed that this is the most auspicious time for pruning trees. But on the other hand, it is during this period, due to the lack of movement of tree sap, that the healing of cut sites is more difficult. In addition, when pruning at low temperatures, it is possible to freeze the shoots in this way, which will lead to their damage and disruption of the fruiting function.
• spring-summer. It starts from the moment the first movement of tree sap appears - this is the so-called vegetative period, and lasts until the fruit is harvested. Exactly this right time for grafting and pruning fruit trees. An unsatisfactory result can be corrected before the onset of the cold season.

In addition to seasonal guidelines, before proceeding with pruning fruit trees, it is worth considering a number of equally important factors, such as:

• site location;
• wind speed;
• the presence of precipitation;
• temperature below 0°;

Fruit Tree Pruning Tools

During the pruning period, not only seasonal and weather conditions are fundamental, but also the quality of the tools. The requirements for them are quite simple, they must be as sharp as possible, clean and easy to use. What may be needed for trimming.

• Secateurs. Refers to a variety of garden scissors. In addition to the main requirement - the sharpness of the blades, the tool must be easy and convenient to use, since usually pruning one tree takes a fairly long period of time. It is important to pay attention to the action of the ratchet mechanism, it will depend on how much force you have to press the handles. In addition, the blades must have a small gap, otherwise the young shoots will get stuck in them, which will cause additional work.

• garden saw. The blades should have good sharpening and be shaped narrower towards the end of the blade. The gaps between the teeth should have shallow cavities for the accumulation of sawdust material. Construction saws are not suitable for pruning fruit trees, as they can create additional damage to the trunk.
• long pruner. It differs from the manual version, the presence of a long handle. This form is great for cutting off processes that are slightly higher than human height, without the use of additional tools in the form of a stepladder or ladder. There are options with a telescopic tube, which makes it possible to adjust the height of the cut.

In the work of pruning trees, additional tools may be needed.

• Chainsaw will speed up the process of cutting massive trunks, especially for mature trees.

• Ladder or stepladder will form the crown of a fruit tree.
• Overalls, supplemented with protective gloves, will relieve unnecessary injuries during work.
• Glasses will be needed at the time of sawing, to protect the eyes from sawdust and small chips.

Technique for shaping and pruning fruit trees

From a technical point of view, there are three types of tree pruning.

• "On the kidney." This pruning method allows you to set the most correct direction of branch growth. As a rule, only young annual shoots are cut in this way with a cut over the selected bud. During the procedure, the pruner blade should be directed towards the branch.

Important: the cutting angle should be as close to 45° as possible so that the kidney is not "truncated". In addition, it is necessary to avoid an excessively sharp cut, in which case the left kidney will lack nutrients. And too long a residual process may dry out and in the future it will have to be completely cut down, which will disrupt the process of crown formation.

• "On the ring." Such pruning is done only with the aim of completely removing one or more branches. The reason may be a violation of the penetration of light into the crown or the wrong direction of the branches. In the latter case, the shoots take away some of the nutrients that can be distributed among the branches that are more promising in terms of yield. If the shoot is relatively young and its thickness allows, then pruning is done with a pruner, otherwise a garden hacksaw is used.

Note: there are a number of nuances that you should not forget about when cutting a branch “on a ring”. Do not leave an excessively long process and trim flush with the bark. Pruning is considered correct along the outer edge of the ring, which is formed by the influx of bark at the junction of the shoot with the trunk.

• "On the side branch." This type of pruning is the least traumatic for fruit trees and retains most of their viable functions. Its direct purpose is to change the direction of growth from one shoot to another. There is a complete pruning of incapacitated branches, due to which all the main functions are taken over by the side branches, gradually replacing the main ones.

Types of pruning fruit trees

In addition to various technological aspects of pruning, there are also types of this process that determine the further development of the fruit tree and its yield:

• Formative. All actions are aimed at designing the future crown, as a result, the necessary density and shape should be formed. The most successful time for such pruning is February, early March. As a result, during the period of active juice movement, which begins at the end of March, the fruit tree will be as fruitful as possible. Late formative pruning will cause a delay in the development of the plant or the absence of a crop as such.

Important: properly designed skeletal (guide) branches, during the entire growth and development of the plant, will serve as a reliable frame that is resistant to any load, which will withstand even the most difficult crop.

• Regulatory. Suitable for an actively developing tree that needs minimal adjustment. In proper condition, the illumination of the crown and the density of young shoots should be maintained. Potentially successful period: February-April or August-September. In any of these periods, a fresh cut is quickly tightened and does not release tree sap.
• anti-aging the view is intended for old trees. The main goal is to restore active fruiting. Pruning time: early spring and late autumn. Such pruning is effective in stimulating the growth of new shoots and restoring the vitality of a fading tree. Even if the "adult" tree gives a good harvest, it still needs rejuvenating pruning from time to time, awakening adventitious buds.

Seasonal pruning has a number of nuances that should be considered in order to avoid harming the fruit tree.

Pruning fruit trees in spring

• Spring is the most productive and successful season for pruning fruit trees. It is important to wait for the period of final temperature change after winter so that the last frosts pass. Pruning must be done strictly until the first buds swell. Dry weather with temperatures above 0° is ideal. Pruning of fruit trees should be carried out in the following sequence:
• Pruning begins with older trees. After all, they are the main fruit-bearing composition. And only after that you can cut young seedlings. The reason lies in the different periods of awakening of the kidneys.
• If apple trees grow on the site, you need to start with them. After all, it is this tree that is most resistant to frost, and if the temperature drops again, this tree will not suffer after pruning, unlike others. But it is better to cut pear and cherry closer to May.

• Regarding shoots, pruning starts with the least promising ones. What does it mean? Dry or damaged by frost, as well as by insects that have intersections with others, these are shoots that interfere with the normal functioning of the crown.
• Large fruit branches are cut down only with the option: “on the ring”. The cut point must be covered with a special solution or wet clay - so it will drag on faster and will not harm the entire tree.

summer tree pruning

The process of pruning fruit trees can be carried out in summer period. The main purpose of such a procedure is only a slight adjustment regarding branches damaged by frost, in case they were not detected in early spring. Indeed, during the period of active flowering, it is much easier to identify flaws.

In addition to stripping incapacitated shoots, a number of activities can be carried out during this period.

• Pinching (clothespin) - the process of cutting off the upper part of the branch. The young shoot is easily cut with garden shears or secateurs.

• Pinching is an adjustment option that is performed when the buds give young shoots and it is enough to break them. The technique is quite similar to standard pruning, the only difference is that pruning occurs without intervention. garden tools. Surprisingly, it is this option that has a beneficial effect on tightening the place of the cliff, it happens faster and less painfully.

Pruning fruit trees in autumn

• The most favorable period for carrying out the procedure for pruning fruit trees is, of course, autumn. It is thanks to her that the tree is prepared for changes in cold temperatures. The main goal of autumn pruning is sanitization, that is, the removal of excess dry, painful and damaged shoots. Thanks to such actions, wood pests and microorganisms will not be able to move to a healthy part of the fruit tree.
• Among other things, autumn pruning of trees allows you to create the most effective conditions for ventilation and crown lighting. And the distribution of tree sap on healthy branches will increase the yield for next year.

Note: before the onset of cold weather, all large sections must be treated with a special protective composition, this will favorably affect the speedy healing and preparation for low temperatures. Winter pruning of fruit trees is not recommended.

Fruit tree pruning schemes

Knowing all the principles and types of pruning fruit trees, it is still difficult to imagine where to start the procedure, especially for beginners in the field of gardening. A rough plan for pruning a tree can come to the aid of a non-specialist in this matter.

• First of all, it is worth paying attention to the apical shoots - by removing the thin forks of branches in the form of "crow's feet".

• Next, you should get rid of the crossing of the branches, for this it is necessary to cut the shoots directed towards the soil.
• Particular attention should be paid to the space around the trunk: cut off the branches directed towards it and the young shoots.
• The formation of the crown is done by removing thickening (growing too close) and top branches (shoots from dormant buds).

The described method is ideal for annual pruning of a well-developed tree, but the methods of forming young seedlings and old trees have a number of certain differences.

Pruning young seedlings

• From the moment a young seedling is planted in the ground until the start of fruiting, the main task will be to form a tree frame from skeletal branches, monitor the growth of fresh shoots and lay future fruit formations. To ensure all these points, it is necessary to ensure the growth of the crown - evenly in all directions. Therefore, one-year-old shoots and branches are pruned, thickening the crown array. Actively growing shoots are truncated by 50%, and slower ones by 25%. Thanks to such manipulations, the crown of a young seedling becomes powerful and fruitful in a few years.
• Young seedlings are pruned annually due to their rapid growth. The most successful period for their pruning is considered late autumn. After leaf fall, all damaged and extra shoots are removed. This not only allows you to prepare the tree for winter, but also to achieve high-quality air exchange and crown lighting.

Pruning fruit trees video

Pruning mature fruit trees

• Forming the crown of new plantations is quite easy, the main thing is to follow all the rules. But with regard to old fruit trees, then certain steps should be followed. This is due to the fact that the entire crop on such trees, as a rule, is located at the very top of the crown, the fruits are relatively small in size and appear irregularly.
• The painstaking process of revitalizing old fruit trees has been going on for several years, and consists of the following activities.
• In the first year, the crown is pruned several levels down and only from the south side of the tree. All work should be carried out with the aim of transferring the main branches to the side branch.
• In the next season, it is mandatory to trim the "tops" formed during the previous procedure. Otherwise, they will absorb the nutrients that the living part of the tree needs. The removal process is performed "on the ring", while the season does not affect the quality of the procedure.

• In subsequent years, the remaining part of the crown is pruned, and then the "wolves" are cleared.
• The most favorable period for pruning old trees is winter time. This is due to the fact that during this period, fresh sections do not rot and pests cannot start in them.

There are certain nuances, observing which you can carry out high-quality pruning of fruit trees, even if a person is doing it for the first time.

• When carrying out the most rigid pruning (up to 35% of the length of the entire branch), it is imperative to observe a frequency of a year, or even two. Do not forget that the option of deep pruning is very traumatic for the plant, as a result of which a significant part of it may die.
• If you want to achieve the fastest possible growth from a fruit tree, during the pruning period it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruiting buds.
• Do not touch the frozen branches of a fruit tree in winter. It is still recommended to wait until spring - then the picture of the dead areas will be more complete and they can be carefully removed.
• When pruning, it is important to observe the subordination of branches. This means that the number of main and secondary branches must be uniform, otherwise you may end up with an oversaturated branch or an overly thinned crown.
• When cutting branches around the main trunk, you should not leave adjoining branches close to it, i.e. at an acute angle.
• It is important to remember that maximum level fruiting differ precisely horizontal branches. This should be taken into account when pruning fruit trees, to regulate the amount of the crop.

• Sections of large diameter must be treated with a special composition: garden pitch or heteroauxin - this will accelerate the healing of the plant. But the use of oil paint as a coating of sections is not recommended.
• Young trees should be pruned as little as possible - only for the purpose of crown formation. Excessive changes can lead to a deterioration in fruit-bearing properties.

The painstaking work that is associated with pruning fruit trees in the garden pays off over time with a decent harvest of fruit. The most important thing is to adhere to generally accepted recommendations, because a seemingly simple process, in fact, requires the performer not only to comply with the technology, but also to be careful.

WHY you need pruning

Sick and dry branches are pruned so that trees and shrubs can recover after winter, bloom, bear fruit and develop further.

Plants with too dense a crown and a large number of intersecting branches need pruning to improve light conditions and air exchange.

Often pruning is done in order to give the crown certain form and density.

As a result, the tree acquires not only a harmonious appearance, but also additional resistance to wind loads, which stimulates the trees to further growth and fruiting.

WHEN to prune trees in the garden

Experts advise pruning trees before the start of sap flow - at the end of March or in early April. In the event of severe frosts, it is better to postpone pruning until warm weather sets in. If we talk about shrubs, then plants that bloom in spring can be pruned only after flowering.

WHAT TO CUT

1. Old, withered and unproductive branches that have ceased to bear fruit.
2. Branches not getting enough light.
3. They are usually directed downwards.
4. Branches growing vertically upwards. They make harvesting more difficult and produce less fruit than horizontal ones.
5. Fat shoots (tops) growing on old branches of young trees.
6. Too luxuriantly growing shoots, due to which other branches cannot develop properly.

GENERAL RULES FOR PRUNING FRUIT TREES

1. You can not cut branches with a rusty tool.
2. Pruning should be carried out in warm weather, at a temperature not lower than -5 ° C.
3. Each time after pruning diseased branches, the tool should be disinfected with alcohol.
4. It is not recommended to prune healthy branches growing at an angle of 45-60 degrees to the trunk. The growth of such branches must be stimulated in every possible way.
5. Immediately after pruning, a fresh cut must be treated with garden pitch.

WHAT TO CUT

Pruner is the main tool for pruning bushes and trees. The cost of a good pruner is 500-700 rubles. A cheaper tool may not be very convenient or will break quickly.

TYPES OF SHECTORS

planar

Ideal for cutting young green shoots. Provides a straight and clean cut.

BY TYPE OF DRIVE

Power

Allows you to increase the cutting force using a special mechanism. Designed for thick branches.

ratchet

A versatile tool that can cut both green and dry branches. Produces a cut in several steps, which greatly facilitates the work.

• for ornamental varieties fruit trees, blooming in spring, - cherries, apple trees, plums, apricots - as a result of pruning, they will remain without a large number flowers, which in the future will reduce productivity and deprive them of external attractiveness;
• for plants in which flowers appear on last year's shoots, these include lilac, hydrangea, mock orange, climbing rose- if pruned, they will bloom only next year.

HOW TO MAKE A GARDEN VAR WITH YOUR HANDS

INGREDIENTS: rosin, wax, rendered beef or mutton fat. All ingredients are selected in the same proportions. We heat the rosin, fat and wax in different containers, and then pour everything into a tin bowl and mix. We are waiting for the mixture to cool, and pour it into a bucket with cold water. After the var curls up and thickens, we sculpt a ball out of it. We wrap the finished putty for storage with oiled paper.

ATTENTION!

Such a var is suitable for processing trees only in the warm season, as it hardens in severe frost.

FEATURES OF CUTTING SOME PLANTS

FAST-GROWING BREEDS - ash, sophora, white locust should be cut more often, because their branches are exposed faster than other plants. Pruning will stimulate the emergence of young shoots.

SHRUBS

Shoots whose leaves are colored in different colors, should be trimmed with extreme care as they may revert to the same color later on. If this still happened, the branch must be deleted completely.

DO NOT NEED FREQUENT CUTTING evergreen shrubs. Formative pruning, which can rather be called a haircut, is done only for hedges. Dry and damaged branches are pruned only after flowering.

COST OF CUTTING SERVICES

Sanitary pruning of fruit trees - 700 rubles per piece.

Pruning of berry bushes - 200 rubles / piece.

Trimming ornamental shrubs - 350 rubles / piece.

NUMBER OF PLANTS ON A PLOT OF 600 m 2

• Apple tree - 8 pcs.
• Cherry - 6 pcs.
• Gooseberries - 10 pcs.
• Black currant - 12 pcs.
• Red currant - 3 pcs.
• Wisteria - 10 pcs.

TOTAL: trees - 14 pcs.; berry bushes - 25 pcs.; ornamental shrubs - 10 pcs.

COST OF SERVICES FOR CUTTING THE WHOLE GARDEN: 700 × 14 + 200 × 25 + 350 × 10 = 18,300 rubles.

SAVINGS IN YOUR OWN CUTTING: 18 300 RUB.

spring pruning fruit

While the buds on the trees have not yet blossomed, it's time to start pruning fruit crops. But a haircut, as they say, one size fits all here. The degree and nature of pruning depend on the breed, varietal characteristics, age, crown shape, etc. And in terms of timing, they start with older trees, with frost-resistant varieties, among fruit crops - with apple trees, pears, plums, cherries. For a young tree, pruning is the formation of a future crown. In Siberian conditions, European varieties are usually grown in the form of stlans. This requires attention throughout the growing season, and most importantly - large areas.

For local apple and pear trees, the bushy form is most acceptable. The stem is 25-30 cm high. 3-4 tiers of woven branches located every 20-25 cm. To do this, in the first years, the conductor is shortened by a third, causing strong branching. Then, in the lower part of the tree, 3-4 shoots are selected after 10-15 cm with different orientations and an angle of departure from the trunk of more than 45 degrees. By the way, you can bring the branches to a more horizontal position with the help of twine, tying them to the trunk, to a stronger lower branch, or pinning them to the ground. This technique will not only give strength to the crown, but also accelerate fruiting. Excess shoots are cut "on the ring", but it is better to pinch them in a young green state. The left branches should be shortened - subordinated to the conductor. It should exceed all branches by 20-30 cm.

Please note: annual shoots are cut only on a well-developed bud, directed to the periphery of the crown. For a pear, for example, it gives a more spreading crown. They cut off the inner bud when they want to avoid a weeping crown in Ralda varieties. Zhivinka, Ural bulk. On the lateral kidney - when they give the desired direction to the future branch.

The cut should pass to the shoots from the side opposite from the kidney (from its top to the base). Do not get carried away with excessive pruning of annual shoots: strong - contributes to too active growth, weak - the awakening of most of the kidneys.

When the plant enters into active fruiting, remove the diseased. damaged shoots, prevent forks, that is, branches at an acute angle to each other. In the future, they give faults. In this case, the cut passes along the bisector of the angle, one side of which lies on the section of the branches, the other is perpendicular to the cut shoot.

In the tenth to fifteenth year of life, the trees age: the number and length of growths and productivity decrease. Rejuvenating pruning required. Branches are cut into 3-7-year-old wood. This reduces the crown. But next year, many young shoots will thicken it. Some of them are removed - on the ring -, the other - they are subordinated. The number of wounds on one side of the branch should not exceed three.

Removing part of the crown, cut - into a ring - or into a side branch. The last trick is to change the direction of growth of the branch, reduce the crown, remove its damaged part. The branch to which they are transferred must be healthy, freely located in the crown and capable of serving as a continuation of the main one. The cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees from the opposite side, leaving no hemp.

For beginner gardeners, we explain: a cut - into a ring - is the complete removal of a branch. At the base of the shoot and branch, at the point of attachment to the conductive one, it is easy to notice an influx in the form of a ring. A cut is made directly above it.

Fruit plants are mostly grown on a rootstock that gives shoots. It is removed without leaving a hemp above the soil level. 2-3 buds are left from the overgrowing shoots on the skeleton-forming stem. It doesn't hurt him and creates protective layer from burns.

And finally, pruning is carried out in dry weather at a temperature not lower than 5 degrees.

Cat Self Groomer with Catnip Grooming Tool…

1. Why cropping is needed (pruning goals).
2. Types of pruning (shaping, rejuvenating, restorative, sanitary).
3. Spring, summer, autumn pruning; pruning calendar dates - how to choose the right one. In what cases is winter pruning acceptable?

Why is pruning necessary?

Pruning is understood as partial or complete removal of shoots, branches of trees, shrubs and (less often) perennial herbaceous crops. This is a very important event, on which not only decorativeness often depends, but also the ability to bear fruit, and the health of plants.

pruning - important procedure, on which both the harvest and the health of the garden depend

Pruning is done for:
- maintaining (improving) the shape of the crown;
- regulation of growth and development of plants;
- stimulation of fruiting, improvement of fruit quality;
- more intensive, long flowering (ornamental crops);
- improvement (rejuvenation) of plants.

Trimming types

Depending on the purpose of pruning, it is divided into types. The gardener needs to understand them in order to correctly choose the options necessary for the plant. It should be remembered that for different types pruning can be provided for and different terms, and different techniques.

Formative pruning

Its goal is the formation of the correct crown of a certain type (optimal for a particular plant species). First of all, such pruning is necessary for young trees and shrubs. It accelerates the beginning of flowering and fruiting, facilitates the care of an adult plant. A well-formed crown provides good illumination, decorative effect; reduces the risk of breakage, disease damage.

The video clip of the Country Wisdom program tells in detail about the formative pruning of fruit trees and berry bushes:

Formative pruning in the first years of a tree or shrub's life is aimed at creating a base - a strong skeleton that can later bear the weight of the crop. In subsequent periods, due to the formative pruning, the volume of the crown, its illumination, and shape are regulated.

Watch a master class on spring formative pruning of fruit trees from the rector of the Russian State Agrarian Correspondence University:

Formative pruning is needed not only for fruit and berry crops, but also for most ornamental plants. In this case, the main goals are beautiful shape crowns, large foliage, abundant and long flowering. This can be achieved, among other things, by removing or shortening aging branches, which leads to intensive growth of young shoots.

It is important to understand that shaping pruning is a creative process. Although there are general rules, in each case it is required individual solution, taking into account the characteristics of both the plant itself and its environment.

The frequency of formative pruning depends mainly on the growth rate: fast-growing crops are pruned annually, and those that grow slowly - once every 2-3 years.

Sanitary pruning

It is carried out when it is necessary to remove damaged, broken, dried branches, cut out infected shoots to avoid the spread of the disease. Its goal is to preserve the health of trees and shrubs.

Unlike other types of pruning, sanitary pruning can be done at any time of the year. The only condition is stable positive air temperature. This is especially true when it comes to caring for neglected trees that have not been pruned for a long time: in one step, do everything necessary work it can be difficult, so first they perform sanitary pruning, and then - at the right time - rejuvenating.

Before proceeding with pruning, you should inspect the plant and outline the branches to be removed:

• dry or shrinking;
• broken, broken;
• intertwined, close, rubbing against each other (cut out the weaker one);
• branches with signs of disease or pest damage;
• coppice and fat shoots;
• thickening, growing inside the crown.

Anti-aging pruning

It is used to stimulate the renewal of old trees and shrubs that have lost their ability to grow and bear fruit well. A signal that the plant needs rejuvenating pruning is weak growth, poor flowering and fruiting. You should not wait until the problem reaches its maximum - it is recommended to start anti-aging pruning at the first alarming signals: reducing the annual growth of shoots to 15-20 cm; weak or vice versa - excessive flowering with poor fruiting (many ovaries are formed, but they crumble).

Anti-aging pruning restores the balance between growth and fruiting that is lost with age. To do this, the old branches are greatly shortened, leaving well-leafy young shoots - they form a new crown. It is recommended to carry out such pruning on old trees every 3-4 years (for apple and pear less often - once every 5-6 years). It is better to cut neglected trees in several stages - over several years, gradually cutting out old branches, reducing and brightening the crown.

It is recommended to rejuvenate berry bushes more often (some - such as raspberries, blackberries, black currants - annually), completely removing old shoots. Some ornamental plants(for example, spirea, mock orange) also need regular anti-aging pruning.

For information on how to restore youth to an old tree with pruning, see the following video:

Restorative (restorative) pruning

It is necessary for damaged (for example, frozen) plants. It is aimed at restoring the damaged crown and returning the ability to bear fruit (for fruit and berry crops). Often, this species also includes pruning of neglected trees, in which the crown is not formed, is formed incorrectly, or has completely lost its shape due to the fact that it has not been cared for for a long time.

If we are talking about plants affected by frost, you should not rush with pruning - in early spring, the affected branches are not always easy to identify. Wait for the buds to awaken to assess the damage done to the plant. Damaged shoots are cut to healthy wood, cuts are processed.

It should be noted that in practice there is rarely any one type of pruning in pure form- most often gardeners combine them.

Trimming of trees and shrubs

It is very important to choose the right time for trimming. Untimely pruning will not be beneficial and can harm the plant, and in some cases even lead to its death.

Traditionally, spring, summer and autumn pruning is distinguished. Winter pruning is rather an exception; it is carried out mainly in regions with a warm climate, where there are no severe frosts. Winter pruning in cold regions is fraught with serious plant injuries: at low temperatures, the wood becomes brittle, the wounds are crushed, and the cuts do not heal well.

The main work on pruning both fruit and berry and ornamental crops is traditionally carried out in the spring, when severe frosts are already behind. In conditions middle lane In Russia, this is usually March-April (but before the buds begin to bloom).

Cut first berry bushes, because their buds swell very early, and the first leaves can appear almost immediately after the snow melts. Then carry out pruning of fruit trees. Roses, grapes, ornamental shrubs and trees are also pruned in spring.

The famous Russian experienced gardener Alexander Sidelnikov, in the following short video, commissioned by the Gardens of Russia magazine, talks about spring pruning trees:

Also, you can check out the post.

In summer, additional pruning of old fruit trees is carried out; pinching or cutting out excess young shoots, form (correct) the crown of apple trees; pruned after flowering early-flowering ornamental crops. At the beginning of summer, evergreens (for example, boxwood) are pruned, including in hedges. Summer is a favorable time for pruning lemongrass: this plant has early and active sap flow, during spring pruning, an injured shoot can literally bleed and die, and in summer there is no such threat. Also in the summer months, you can perform sanitary pruning of any crop (if necessary).

The following video tells about why and how summer pruning of fruit trees is carried out:

The second part of the video about summer pruning:

In autumn, it is recommended to prune berry bushes, since in spring they bloom earlier than other plants. In addition, in some crops (for example, raspberries), fruiting shoots are cut out in the fall. Fruit trees in regions with severe winters are not recommended to be pruned in autumn, as their winter hardiness may decrease as a result and, accordingly, the risk of freezing increases. The main type of autumn pruning is sanitary.

The expert of the Greensad Garden Center (Grinsad) tells about the features of autumn pruning in the following video: