Spring work in the garden and garden at their summer cottage. Work in the early spring in the country

If snow does not melt on the soil for a long period of time, and work on the summer cottage is urgent, then we speed up the process - we pour a thin layer of peat on the snow. If time permits, we wait. The soil on which the snow has melted is perfectly moistened. If you leave a snow cover next to the trees, the process of gradual wetting is extended.. So you can keep a significant amount of moisture for a fairly long time.

With the snow melting, garden work in the spring can be read from cleaning last year's foliage (if this was not done in the fall). It can be burned or composted. Then we remove the insulating film from the grapes, ornamental plants, open the strawberries. We pay special attention to the soil of the site: if necessary, then we remove excess moisture and loosen it.

After that, the top layer of soil should be mulched, that is, sprinkled with organic or inorganic material. The first is hay, nutshells, sawdust, humus, needles. The second - gravel, pebbles, various covering materials. Mulching helps retain water and soil looseness, prevents soil erosion, reduces the number of weed plants and promotes the formation of adventitious roots.

Spraying and whitewashing - do not forget about the trees

All work in the garden must be done before the buds begin to swell. First of all, this applies to pruning shrubs, fruit trees and grapes. Early pruning reduces the negative effects possible from shortening. It is also important to get rid of dry and frost-affected or diseased branches and cut out excess growth.

If you decide to carry out, remove no more than a third of the branches in one year.

If the autumn whitewashing of trees for any reason was not done, then this must be done. Whitewash, which includes chalk and lime, protects the tree well from flightless pests that hibernate in the bark or fallen leaves. Be sure to do the first spraying of trees and grapes before bud break - many insects lay their eggs in buds or buds.

Spring work in the garden - March-May

In late April - early March, all fruit trees must be opened and the soil dug in a circle, only carefully so as not to damage their roots. This is done both to destroy possible pests and infections, and to improve the quality of the soil. Also during this period, it is advisable to dig the soil throughout the site and add mineral fertilizers or ash to it. Then use a rake to level the ground. When warm and sunny weather comes, it is possible to sow early agricultural crops. seeds of carrots, cucumbers, melons and others. Due to the fact that frosts sometimes occur in May, both on the ground and in the air, it is necessary to carefully monitor changes in atmospheric temperatures. On frosty days, in extreme cases, smoke fires can be lit in the summer cottage so that the flowers of fruit trees do not freeze. On cool nights, seedlings should be covered with polyethylene or thick paper.

For the May holidays, gardeners will rush to their dachas. There is a lot to do and I want to do everything at once. AiF.ru turned to an experienced agronomist-breeder Mikhail Vorobyov with a request to talk about the most common mistakes that summer residents make.

Don't overstrain

Even the founder of jogging, American Paul Bragg said: "Do not pounce on jogging in the same way as a bull pounces on closed gates." I would like to advise gardeners and gardeners the same. To do everything at once will not work, believe my many years of experience. The body is not trained after the winter, so various injuries are possible, up to a breakdown of the back. Therefore, if possible, work in the weightlifter's belt. This is a common wide belt that athletes use to keep their health during training. And yet, try not to be constantly in the position of the letter "G" - this is a huge load on the lumbar vertebrae.

Don't pass by

If you have beds that you have not yet sown with anything - do not pass by. Like, I will return to them in a week and plant something here on May 9th. Forget it. Now there is a prematurely strong heating of the soil, respectively, rather strong evaporation of precious snow moisture, which still saturates our soil. Your task is to keep this moisture. To do this, cover the bed with leaves or dry grass. If none of these are available, use an agronomic technique called "closing spring moisture." To do this, you need to level the top layer with a rake and break up the lumps. This will stop the evaporation of moisture from the soil and destroy the weeds for a while. And until you decide what to plant in an empty garden, repeat this procedure.

Don't whitewash the trees

If you did not have time to whitewash fruit trees in late February - early March, you do not need to do this now.

Although hundreds of gardeners stubbornly do this useless work. Wait until late autumn.

Don't burn the grass

Most summer residents want to immediately clean up the area and begin to burn dry grass. It's unhealthy. Firstly, the top layer of the soil is very hot, respectively, all humic substances (organo-mineral substances responsible for soil fertility) decompose. At the same time, a huge number of insects are killed, the existence of which we do not even suspect. And they are part of the ecosystem, and if we killed them, it means that something (according to the domino effect) can happen. For example, due to the lack of the usual food, birds will fly away.

Secondly, it is a fire hazard! The fire can spread to nearby buildings and forests. Use last year's grass for mulching or as organic fertilizer.

Hold the seedlings

If your seedlings stood on the balcony, she managed to get used to the sun's rays. Such seedlings take root normally. But if she grew up in an apartment on the window, behind curtains and double glazing, or in a greenhouse, she needs time to adapt to ultraviolet light.

When you bring such seedlings to the dacha, then the first day you need to keep it in the shade of a fence or at home. Then we gradually increase the sunbathing and transfer the pots under a bush, into an openwork shade, then we plant it and, just in case, having broken branches with leaves, we surround the seedlings with a fence. To keep the shadow for some time. With these simple procedures, you will help the plant adapt and not get burned.

Bought but not forgotten!

Let's say you bought a lot of seedlings with an open root system. The most common mistake is that, having purchased a batch of seedlings, they are loaded into the trunk or tied to the roof of the car and taken directly to the country house in this form. When we reach our destination, we see a catastrophic situation. Instead of healthy seedlings, a person brings brushwood, as the wind has dried the root system to the ground.

It is important for us that the roots are constantly in a humid environment. How to create it? You can take wet sawdust, place them in a plastic bag and lower the root system of the seedling there, tightly tying the bag. In this form, it will last 2-4 days. At worst, wrap the roots with a damp cloth. When you find yourself in the country, place the roots in a bucket or barrel of water at least overnight. Let them feed before planting.

Tulips and seedlings with leaves do not take

Of course, when you see seedlings with leaves, it seems that this is good. The plant is growing. But from the point of view of nursery, seedlings with an open root system, with awakened buds and leaves, are a marriage. Their survival rate is very low. They dry out quickly.

In addition, now “kind” sellers who failed to sell tulips, hyacinths and daffodils in time in the fall are actively selling them. With the wording that if you did not have time to plant them in the fall, now is the best time. No, not the best! Of course, they will not die, but they definitely will not bloom this year. Therefore, it is impossible to consider them as full-fledged bulbs, they can be regarded as "kids", which cost two to three times cheaper. Keep this in mind if you go to the market.

In March, the echoes of the February snowstorms are still heard, and caring summer residents have already rushed to their suburban areas to put them in order for the upcoming season. It would seem that what can be done in the garden in early spring, when the earth has not yet warmed up enough, and there is snow in the ditches at all? In fact, spring work in the country includes an extensive range of activities for cleaning the territory, caring for trees, and preparing the soil for planting.

First of all, it is necessary to remove from the garden and vegetable garden everything that served as protection from winter frosts. Covering material or special designs must be cleaned, washed, dried and put away in the utility room before the autumn cold. From the beds, flower beds and garden area, the debris remaining from the fall should be removed: windbreak, old branches, fallen leaves, withered grass. Even if, by spring, some garbage accumulates again.

It is quite possible that with the first rays of the sun, the enemies of cultivated plants also hatched -. While the roots are weak, the sprouts can be easily removed from the moist soil. Moss grows in warm weather, and algae grows in damp places. Short growth is easily removed with a stiff brush, and a natural stone or brick path with the first pockets of young moss can be washed with a strong jet of water from a garden hose. Any activities with water should be carried out at positive temperatures, otherwise the country yard will turn into a skating rink.

Containers, vases and flower pots should also be cleaned, repaired if cracked, and treated with herbicides. From the containers that served as a wintering place for perennial flowers, you should get the old soil and replace it with fresh, and thoroughly dry the tubers and rhizomes of plants.

An overview of the complex of garden work that needs to be carried out in March will also be useful:

Early spring is the right time to repair polycarbonate greenhouses, which could have suffered from snow drifts in winter

Mulching and fertilizing the soil

Mulching is carried out in flower beds, in the garden and in the garden. creates comfortable conditions for plants, warming their roots in the cold and protecting them from the scorching rays of the sun in the heat. It perfectly retains moisture, eliminates the appearance of weeds, protects against dangerous insects. Many cultivated plants (strawberries, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin) are less susceptible to decay and increase yields on mulched soil. We should not forget about the decorative effect: the mulched soil looks well-groomed and neat.

When biological fertilizer, manure, is added to mulch (for example, bark or sawdust), the degree of its overripeness must be checked. Incompletely oxidized substance can kill plants

Material for making mulch:

• sawdust;
• compost;
• bark;
• chips;
• straw;
• rotted leaves;
• covering fabric.

Fruit tree care

Simple garden work to care for shrubs and trees rejuvenates them, increases yield and improves the appearance of plants.

Pruning branches and shoots

When the air temperature has overcome the mark of 0°C, has become positive, but is still low, berry bushes should also be produced. As a result of pruning, the crown of the tree should take on a cup-shaped shape with an open center, which provides ideal lighting for each branch and excellent airflow. Thinning the crown and shortening the branches are appropriate at a time when there are no flowers, leaves, or even swollen buds on the trees. Together with the shoots, the trunk is also shortened.

Planting fruit seedlings

With the first rays of the sun, immediately after the snow melts, young seedlings should be planted. Planting is carried out while the trees are at rest, sleeping, that is, they do not have buds, otherwise the seedlings will die without having lived even a couple of weeks.

Planting young fruit trees occurs in the following order:

• They dig a shallow hole, on the bottom of which manure is laid and on top of it - a thin layer of enriched soil.
• The roots of the seedling are placed in a prepared hole, carefully dug in and lightly compact the soil with their feet.
• They drive in a peg next to the seedling, which serves as a support for it at first.
• Water and make sure that the earth around the roots does not dry out.

See the video for more details:

Grafting for new varieties

Spring is the best time for grafting trees. With equal success, budding (grafting with a kidney) or copulation (grafting with a cutting) can be carried out. Cutting shoots are the most viable, as shoots from a grafted bud can hardly survive the winter. The most successful time for cuttings is between mid-April and early June. The operation is carried out with a grafting knife or. One of the main conditions for effectiveness is close contact between the rootstock and the scion.

Spring grafting of fruit trees is a great opportunity to have many varieties in your summer cottage, while planting only a few main trees.

Processing flower beds with perennials

The division of herbaceous perennials will be more effective if carried out in early spring. Thanks to him, the resource of planting material increases and old plants are renewed, which begin to lose color, weaken and rot. If the rhizomes of bluebells, asters, phlox, crocosmia are separated in time, they will begin to grow more actively, and flowering will be longer and more violent. Large bushes are divided into four parts with an ordinary bayonet shovel, putting them on the board. The place of dissection is the spaces between the kidneys. The roots of small plants are separated with a garden knife.

Bright crocosmia after the renewal procedure gain a second life: they should be dug out every 2-3 years, separate the children and plant them in another place

Spring renewal of the lawn

In order for the silky grass of the lawn to please the eye throughout the summer, from early spring it is necessary to carry out a whole range of activities, the main of which are:

• top dressing;
• combing;
• aeration;
• weeding.

For uniform and metered application of fertilizers to the lawn, there are many devices, one of which is a convenient trolley on two wheels

If the lawn is small in size, then you can use a regular garden rake for the combing procedure, and a pitchfork for aeration.

Methods for planting vegetables

If the climate allows, then many vegetables are planted directly in open ground. There are several ways to disembark, which depend on the location:

• in trenches;
• on raised ridges;
• on embankments;
• on flat ridges;
• into containers.

If the soil is light, sandy, warms up quickly, but does not retain moisture well, it is better to use the trench method. Clay soils also warm up easily, and also retain moisture well, so raised ridges are traditionally used for them. Several layers of manure, earth and compost, laid according to a special scheme, form bulk ridges, which are called "smart gardens". Ordinary even ridges are used in greenhouses, and containers where there is not enough free space for planting.

Material on how to make beautiful beds in your garden will also be useful:

Raised beds are used for planting vegetables and flowers. Their distinctive feature is a border made of wooden boards or ceramic tiles.

Pest control

Unfortunately, with the onset of heat, harmful insects are activated that can nullify all the efforts of hardworking summer residents. Many of them attack fruit trees and shrubs. It is necessary to carefully examine all the branches and pay attention to the fastened dry leaves. Perhaps these are the nests of golden tail or hawthorn. They must be collected by hand and burned.

Weevil beetles are destroyed on cold days when they become numb and stop moving. A film is placed under the tree, then the branches are shaken. Fallen insects are burned. From moths and leafworms, an infusion of mustard or wood ash is used. The suckers are afraid of the infusion of garlic with tobacco.

For spraying trees from pests, a solution of copper sulfate, urea, Bordeaux mixture, iron sulfate is also used, and laundry soap helps against aphids

In addition to the listed types of spring work, there are many others, for example, planting flower crops, updating garden furniture, cleaning ponds.

The garden plot needs care almost all year round: spring is the time to come out of hibernation and prepare the land and plants for the new harvest year. Summer is the time for plant care. Autumn is the time to harvest and prepare the land and garden for the harsh winter. Only in winter does an avid summer resident get a respite, and even at this time the garden plot needs some supervision.

Spring is the time for the awakening of nature after the cold, preparing the land and garden for a new harvest. But in spring, the weather is so capricious and unpredictable that before starting work in the garden and on the ground, you should navigate the first spring month not by dates, but by weather conditions.

In March, snow and frost most often prevent garden work from starting. But even at this time, you can find an activity that will help improve the appearance of the site, help trees and shrubs, and prepare the land.

Garden care in March

If the first month of spring is rich in snow, you should try to protect fruit plants from damage by shaking off snow from the crowns. Due to the alternation of frosts and thaws, the snow becomes heavy and sticky, due to which it can break off fragile tree branches.

Spring is a difficult time for hares and small rodents, so it is advisable to check the integrity of the bark of young fruitful trees. If there is a lot of snow near the trunks, it is advisable to clear it so that the animals do not get to the branches.

Coniferous tree care

In spring, the sun is quite bright and the sun's rays can damage the crowns of coniferous trees, especially if there is snow on the ground, which reflects the light. If young trees are located in open areas, then it is advisable to cover their branches from the scorching ultraviolet radiation. Crowns tied with twine can be covered with burlap or old bedspreads. For small trees, you can build special shields. When the snow melts, the protection can be removed.

Fruit tree care

If whitewash is not applied to tree trunks in autumn or winter, this should be done in early spring. Alternatively, you can wrap the trunks with light paper. This will protect the bark from sunburn. Whitewashing will protect the bark of plants from pests that will definitely appear with the onset of heat.

Until the snow melts, you should start trimming the branches of fruit trees. This will help not only remove excess shoots, but also correctly form the height and shape of the crown.

Worth knowing!!! It is necessary to form a crown every few years. Annual pruning can weaken the tree and result in lower yields.

Video - How to properly trim the crowns of fruit trees

When the air temperature rises above 5-6 degrees, the branches of fruit trees should be sprayed with special insecticides against pests and diseases. It is important to do this before the first leaves appear.

If there was a lot of snow in the garden during the winter and in March it began to actively melt, water should not be allowed to stagnate on the ground. With the help of small ditches dug in the ground, the outflow of water from the site should be ensured. Otherwise, the roots of trees in a flooded area cannot “breathe”.

On sunny days, you can start to open the shoots of roses and other heat-loving flowers to prevent condensation from accumulating under the film and "harden" the plants.

Toward the end of March, bulbs of daffodils and lilies can be freed from covering materials. These flowers are not afraid of night frosts.

The release of the land and garden from the snow cover should be noted by a major cleaning. You should remove old leaves and broken branches from the ground, sweep garden paths, clean them of moss. You can also inspect garden furniture, repair or paint benches.

Garden work in March is the sowing of seeds of tomatoes and peppers for seedlings. Seedlings are grown in special containers at home, on window sills.

Video -How to grow tomato seedlings at home

April

This month, much attention is paid to preparing the land for planting, and it is April that is the most laborious and busy month for summer residents.

Works on the ground

April is the time of working with the earth. But before you start digging a garden, you should know agricultural tricks.

What crops are sown in April

table

If you plan to plant potatoes, then in early April, you should sort out the tubers for planting, laying them in a well-ventilated and lit place for vernalization. Potatoes should not be exposed to direct sunlight.

If winter garlic and onions were sown for the winter, you should remove the mulch layer, loosen and feed the soil with crops.

In April, you need to prepare greenhouses for new plantings. In addition to digging and fertilizing, the soil should be disinfected. For these purposes, 3% Bordeaux liquid is used. It is also recommended to wash the glass or plastic in the greenhouse to improve the light transmission of the material.

April work in the garden

At the beginning of the month, you need to fertilize the root system of fruit trees and shrubs.

In April, after the snow melts, you need to remove all the bindings from the trees, remove the protective spruce branches and shields from the sun.

If the soil is too wet, you should not stomp near the roots of trees, this will impair their nutrition and oxygen saturation.

In the middle of the month, you can start updating the garden by planting seedlings of trees or shrubs in wells prepared and fertilized with organic matter and ash. Seedlings must be tied up.

You need to carefully look at all the trees and shrubs to make sure that pests have not appeared on the bark or branches. Also, for preventive purposes, it is necessary to treat the trunks of plants with a solution of copper sulfate.

With the onset of heat, you can do strawberries. You should remove the mulch, loosen and fertilize the earth around the shoots.

May

Works in the garden

May is a month of unstable weather: warm during the day and frost at night. It is the night frosts in May that can destroy the entire crop if no action is taken. Also in May, all plants and crops are planted on the beds and greenhouses, so the month for summer residents and gardeners is very busy.

In the last month of spring, you need to try to finally form the beds. Cabbage is planted in open ground, sorrel, onions, carrots, aromatic herbs and spices are sown.

All shoots of carrots and beets should be thinned out and fed. It is recommended to water the sprouts after 3-4 days. Weeding should be carried out carefully, as vegetable sprouts are still very weak and easily damaged.

Top dressing strawberries in spring - photo

Onion crops are thinned out, fed with a mixture of mullein, potassium salt and phosphate fertilizers. Feeding is best combined with watering. In order for the plants to receive enough oxygen, it is necessary to periodically loosen the ground near the rows with bulbs.

Don't forget the garlic. The beds with this crop need to be watered often and thoroughly, otherwise the garlic begins to shrink without water. In mid-May, you need to carefully remove the arrows, otherwise these sprouts will pull on most of the nutrients.

In mid-May, it is possible to plant seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants in a greenhouse or open ground, under a film.

Folk calendar for sowing plants in open ground

Potatoes are planted in May. It is customary to sow early varieties at the beginning of the month, late ones - in the middle or at the end of May.

It's important to know!!! Fragile and tender sprouts of garden crops need enhanced feeding and watering. Especially do not forget about those plants that are planted in greenhouses. You should also spray the seedlings with pesticides in a timely manner.

May work in the garden

If a lawn is planted on the site, then in May you should start cutting the grass. While the ground is wet, do not trample on the lawn a lot, otherwise “bald spots” will appear on it. In the process of cutting, it is important to remove the broken weeds.

During the flowering period of fruit trees, gardeners should be wary of night frosts, because frost-damaged flowers do not produce ovaries. To preserve the crop, you can try to protect the trees from the effects of cold. For these purposes, smoke bombs or small portable barbecue stoves are used, in which the fire should be maintained all night.

After the appearance of buds on fruit trees, care must be taken to ensure that pests do not destroy the future crop. For the prevention and destruction of apple flower beetles, mites, moths, aphids, apple suckers, you need to prepare the following mixture: 60 grams of karbofos, 80 grams of copper oxychloride and 40 grams of chlorophos are diluted per 20 liters of water. These substances can be purchased in specialized stores. The resulting mixture is sprayed on the crowns and branches of all existing trees and shrubs in the garden. If the primary treatment did not help, you can repeat the procedure before the flowering of fruitful trees and shrubs begins.

With the appearance of the first leaves on the trees, you can see which branches were damaged by winter frosts. Dead branches need to be cut off, it is recommended to cover the cut points with ordinary oil paint.

In early May, you need to work with garden raspberries. Shoots that were bent to the ground for the winter should be straightened and tied to a trellis or fence. Damaged branches are recommended to be cut at the root, the remaining shoots should be cut along the first formed bud. Raspberries need to be fed; organic fertilizers are suitable for these purposes. Top dressing can be combined with watering.

It is important to inspect all gooseberry and blackcurrant bushes available on the site. These cultures during flowering and the formation of ovaries are a real delicacy for ants. To preserve the crop, a piece of cloth should be moistened in kerosene and placed at the roots of shrubs. Do not pour kerosene into the ground, this can adversely affect the plants.

It's important to know!!! If signs of doubleness appear on the blackcurrant during the flowering period, the bush should be uprooted immediately, otherwise there is a risk of infecting all the plants in the garden. Terryness caused by aphids and bud mites cannot be cured.

In order for the garden and the garden to please with a rich harvest, you need to pay attention to the planted plants daily throughout the entire garden period.

In April, most summer residents begin to go to the sites to see how he spent the winter. Many already at this time begin to prepare greenhouses and greenhouses, grow seedlings, put everything in order in the garden, plot, vegetable garden and country house.

Now sequentially. Let's analyze the "average" option, when the dacha was mothballed in November and they came to see the state only in April. On the site, in addition to the house, there is a garden, a vegetable garden, a greenhouse. Let's start with activities around the house.

Works in the country house

First of all, you need to look at the condition of the basement and blind area of ​​the house. In old village houses, dams protected.

Modern technologies for the construction of a concrete or brick foundation do not provide for the construction of blockages. In the best case, the plinth is tiled with facade tiles, plastered or painted. But often in the basement of the building you can see exposed concrete or brickwork. And if the house is placed on a columnar foundation, it is rarely protected.

In the cold season, snow falling from the roof creates additional shelter for the basement of the foundation. But when the sun begins to warm up, and the snow settles, melt water saturates the plinth, and at low night temperatures, when the water freezes, cracks can form on it.

Upon arrival at the dacha, it is necessary to clear the blind area of ​​​​the house from the snow, expose the basement, and allow it to dry. It is advisable to ensure the natural flow of melt water from the house - to dig paths along which the water will leave the house. This is especially important if surface drainage was not provided during the construction of the house, and melt water flows along the natural slope of the soil to the foundation of the house.

In the temperate zone, the weather is unstable in spring. There are sharp thaws when the daytime temperature exceeds +10°C, although the night temperature still continues to stay below 0°C. In such conditions, a heavy flood can flood the site, and the night cold can turn it into a skating rink. It is necessary to ensure the flow of water from the site, to clear the drainage grooves, which are usually dug along the perimeter of the site.

Work in the greenhouse after winter

There are a huge number of models of greenhouses, both industrial and handicraft.

All of them suffer from one "disease" - after 2-3 years of operation, the soil in them is salted, its fertility is sharply reduced. The first two years, a decent harvest can be supported by the application of organic and mineral fertilizers. But in the end, it becomes necessary to replace the soil (to a depth of 15-20 cm) or transfer the greenhouse to a new location.

It is interesting that in the case of using a polyethylene film as a cover for the greenhouse, which is torn in the second year in winter under the weight of snow and wind pressure, no significant soil salinization is observed. Practitioners have a strong opinion that non-permanent greenhouses (and most of them) should be left uncovered for the winter.

Indeed, the melt water in rural areas practically does not contain salts (in cities, snow absorbs a large amount of heavy salts) and is energetically active, alive.

Numerous experiments have proven that the use of melt water, even in industrial greenhouses operating all year round, can almost double the duration of soil operation. And in the conditions of a private greenhouse, the use of melt water, coupled with the rational application of organic fertilizers, makes it possible to remove the issue of replacing the soil.

It is not too late to do this in April, if summer residents did not come to the site all winter, the greenhouse should be ventilated and the beds covered with a thick layer of snow. It will not be possible to overdo it here - the more melt water passes through the soil of the greenhouse, the better.

True, a “conflict of interest” may arise, since from the second half of April, green crops and radishes can already be planted in the greenhouse using bioheating. But if the owners of the garden plot did not appear on it all winter, then they are unlikely to plant early vegetables and seedlings in April.

By the way, about bioheating. The effect of heat release during the decay of organic matter, in particular manure, was used a long time ago.

In protected ground conditions, bioheating is used constantly. The technology here is simple.

Fresh manure (horse or cow) is laid from autumn under greenhouse beds and covered with a layer of earth 15-20 cm.

Rotting of manure occurs constantly, but in winter, when the soil freezes, the activity of putrefactive bacteria decreases sharply, so the rate of decay decreases.

Since February, when the sun begins to peek out, the soil in the greenhouse warms up, the bacteria become more active. And since even night frosts are not terrible for heated soil, gardeners plant unpretentious crops in it. Some danger to humans is posed by gases released during decay of manure, in particular methane, ammonia and carbon dioxide, therefore greenhouses are constantly ventilated, although these gases in small concentrations do not harm plants.

On the one hand, ventilation is desirable, as the plants harden, but, on the other hand, heat is lost during ventilation.

Synthetic vapor barrier helps to reduce the emission of gases from biofuels.

In fact, this is the same geotextile that gardeners often use on the farm. In autumn, after laying manure, it is covered with a layer of synthetic vapor barrier or geotextile with a density of 60-80 g / m 2 and covered with fertile soil with a layer of 10-15 cm.

Work in the garden in spring

From the closed greenhouse soil, it is logical to move on to the open ground of garden beds. In agronomy, there is the concept of "alternation of crops." It implies the expediency of transferring culture to another place after a certain period of time.

Simply put, if garden strawberries grew on some beds for three years, then a sufficient amount of slag substances and pests of strawberries formed here.

It is advisable to move it to another place, and plant onions or garlic on strawberry beds, for which both pests of strawberries and the remaining slags from it are safe.

In fact, the same salinization of the soil has an impact on the decrease in yield.

We can say that melt water increases the bioprotection of the soil. Therefore, it is advisable to accumulate the maximum possible layer of snow (80-100 cm) on the beds and plots.

Spring work in the garden

In April, it is time to ventilate the protective shelters of the roses, if they have been built. Professional rose growers categorically do not recommend covering roses with spruce branches - spruce needles almost always contain spores of pathogenic fungi, in particular rust, which infect buds and young rose shoots.

Unfortunately, many owners of garden plots with enviable persistence continue to break off neighboring spruce forests and bring pathogenic microflora to their site.

Formative pruning of fruit trees.

Currently, the vast majority of woody fruit crops are offered for sale grafted onto semi-dwarf rootstocks. This means that the optimal height of garden trees is 3-4 m for apple trees and 4-5 m for pears, depending on the strength of the rootstock and the variety of the scion. The grafted plants themselves can far outgrow these heights, but the strength of the root of a semi-dwarf stock will not be enough to fully nourish the huge crown - the terminal branches become thinner, fruit buds are not laid.

Therefore, fruit trees are periodically crowned - they are cut at the right height. In addition, depending on the intensity of growth, with a frequency of 3-4 years, formative pruning of crowns is carried out, internal shading and intersecting branches are removed, and extra top shoots are cut out.

Enough has been written about the methods and techniques of pruning.

Here I would like to note that the gardener faces a dilemma when to prune - in autumn or spring? Autumn pruning stimulates the laying of fruit buds, but is fraught with frost, since large cuts are not protected, and the wood in them freezes deep. Pruned trees do not undergo deep freezing in spring, but when pruning, a large number of fruit buds are removed, and the gardener is left without a crop in the first warm season after pruning.

Such protection prevents deep freezing of wood, while pruning itself stimulates the laying of fruit buds. However, a tall stump eventually dries up and breaks out, leaving a hollow, into which pathogenic fungi penetrate.

Therefore, in the spring it must be cut according to the rules - according to the level of the fold of the bark at the point of origin of the branch. And it is good to smear the wound itself with garden pitch or paint it over with thick green oil paint.

If the forming pruning is carried out in the spring, then all sections more than 1 cm in diameter must be smeared with garden pitch - it is believed that sections less than 1 cm in diameter do not need such protection. Pruning is carried out before the start of sap flow.

When removing thick branches or trunks, the bark is first sawn in a circle. When cutting, the branches are held to avoid breaking and splitting the wood on the remaining branches. If this happens, then the split is wrapped with matting or geotextile, several turns of string are applied and pulled together. The saw cut and exposed cracks are coated with garden pitch.

On a note:

• In winter, snow sliding from the roof additionally covers the plinth, but in spring, when the snow melts, the wooden walls become damp to a great height.
• Clearing the blind area and exposing the basement is a mandatory event when visiting a suburban area in the winter.
• With proper maintenance of the site in the spring, the walls and basement of the house remain dry.
• In winter, greenhouses covered with cellular polycarbonate are usually completely covered with snow. In the spring, melted snow slides off the slopes, and the internal volume of the greenhouse warms up.
• The snow brought to the greenhouse beds, when melting, will wash the soil, free it from salts and pests.
• White lightweight geotextile with a density of 5-40 g/m 2 is an excellent shelter.
• In the spring, snow is removed from it and, if necessary, ventilation holes are made - Plants do not suffocate.
• When filing trunks or large branches, first make a circular cut through the bark.
• When they want to rejuvenate a tree, they remove the main trunk, allowing butt or basal shoots to grow. In the process of work, the trunk is usually cut down above the prescribed place so as not to accidentally split the remaining part, and the final saw cut is made inclined in the right place to avoid stagnant water, and smeared with garden pitch.

CLEANING PLANTS FROM SNOW

With heavy snowfalls and temperature drops from minus to plus, the snow becomes wet and heavy. Coniferous trees and shrubs - arborvitae, junipers, pines - suffer greatly from it. If the plants had a spreading or wide-conical crown shape, were not tied for the winter, then they suffer greatly from the breakage of large branches or their crown is deformed. Therefore, after heavy snowfalls, it is recommended to shake off wet and heavy snow from the branches. And sometimes you can bind for 1-2 months.

Sheared deciduous forms can also be affected by snow, such as spirea, hedge cotoneaster, vesicle.

WHITEWASHING OF STEMS AND SKELETAL BRANCHES

At the end of winter - the beginning of spring, whitewashing of trunks and skeletal branches can be carried out in order to avoid sunburn and frost cracks. Whitewashing, carried out in the fall, is ineffective for these purposes (washed off by rain).

FIGHTING WITH SUNBURN

In January - February in the middle lane the sun becomes active. During the day it warms, and at night the temperature drops sharply. Such a contrasting change in temperature leads to cracks - frost holes, especially on the southern side of plants.

It is enough to make a light shelter or screen on the south side of the plant to avoid burns.

TRUMBLING THE GROUND CIRCLES

Around stand-alone plants, it is necessary to trample the snow.

During the winter, passages and burrows of rodents form in the snow, which damage the delicate bark in the lower part of plant trunks.

Ornamental fruit and deciduous trees are especially affected, less often conifers. If the stem (lower part of the trunk) has not been protected since autumn with a special net from rodents, then it is necessary to trample the trunk circle, and hang "lugals" from hares on the lower or middle branches.

SPRING CUTTING

You can start sanitary pruning as soon as you can get close to the plants (February - April). Pruned branches broken by snow, frost-damaged branches, as well as diseased and dried ones. This type of trimming is carried out separately from the forming one or combined with it. The timing is limited by the opening of the kidneys and the appearance of leaves or the beginning of flowering. You can cut hedges in a leafless state, giving them the desired shape.

REMOVING THE COVER

In March - April, they begin to gradually remove the shelters from roses, hydrangeas, rhododendrons, etc. The shelters are removed in layers, not abruptly, for 1 week. Then sanitary pruning is carried out.

FERTILIZER

Can be driven through melting snow. Spreading a thin layer of ash, peat, manure, chicken manure, you can get earlier snow melting and at the same time light top dressing with microelements or organic fertilizer. You can also apply mineral granular complex or spring fertilizers, which, gradually dissolving when the snow melts, will fall into the soil.

SPRING WORK WITH THE LAWN

Immediately after the snow melts, they begin to comb out the lawns, as well as their aeration (piercing). This is important for overgrown lawns (if not mowed in the fall) and to combat lawn snow mold.

CLEANING FLOWERS

After the snow melts, deadwood and fallen leaves are removed from the flower beds, the surface layer of soil between perennials is loosened and spring fertilizers are applied. If the flower beds are from annuals, then the soil is dug up on a shovel bayonet and complex fertilizer is applied to the topsoil. Planting of annuals begins no earlier than May 25th.

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