How to make soil loose in a pot. Land for indoor plants - the main components

Although, as already mentioned, the basis of plant nutrition is carbon dioxide, water and light, some of the substances necessary for the normal existence of the substances plants receive from the soil. This is her first and main role. However, the soil is not only a source of nutrition, but also a home for indoor plants.

A significant part of a houseplant - the root - is entirely underground. It is he who sucks out the substances necessary for the plant from the soil, but can only do this in conditions that are comfortable for him (for different plants they are somewhat different): at a certain humidity, acidity, and even mechanical composition.

In order for the soil to fulfill its first and main function, it is important that it does not become exhausted. Therefore, plants from time to time have to be transplanted or compensate for the lack of nutrients with the help of fertilizers. Which is easier for you: feed the plants every 7-10 days or transplant once a year or two? Probably the second.

In addition, already for both roles of the soil, it is necessary that it has a normal structure and acidity. This is also important so that the plant can absorb the necessary nutrients from it. chemical elements without labor, and simply by milking providing habitual habitat for milking plants.

Structural soil, that is, soil with pronounced lumps, is better for plants, since it is able to protect deep layers from drying out, and dry lumps on the surface (unlike structureless soil) do not form a dense, fused crust that compresses plants and prevents seedlings from germinating. If a crust has formed, it must be destroyed.

Most indoor plants soil mixtures with a neutral reaction are needed, but not for everyone.

Acidic and slightly acidic soils prefer:

As well as almost all cacti (pH 4.5 to 6.0).

* - with the exception of platicerium cultivated on the bark.

A slightly alkaline reaction is desirable (pH about 7.0):

Gardenia - Ophiopogon

Calceolaria - Chlorophytum (pH up to 7.5)

Equal-leaved bell "groom" and "bride"

Don't be intimidated by this "complex chemistry"! You need to know these lists in order to choose the most suitable soil when buying it. The acidity of the soil must be indicated on the label.

Buy ready-made earth mixes desirable for several reasons. Firstly, experts compiled them specifically for indoor plants, which are more pampered and finicky than open ground plants. Chemical composition soil taken in the garden or in the forest does not match the one that your flowers need, and the microflora traditional for the area (i.e. soil microorganisms) can be detrimental to them due to the lack of immunity.

The soil taken from the urban garden can be contaminated to the limit with heavy metals and other toxic substances that are harmful to plants. The soil from the field may be saline. Forest soil usually has hyperacidity. Soil from the unfamiliar garden plot may be infected with fungus or viruses. In other words, by purchasing a ready-made soil mixture, you will get rid of unnecessary risk and a lot of problems. Ease of use, sterility, the presence of an additional supply of minerals, saving time - all this is worth the modest money that you spend on it.

If you decide to buy ready mix, you will only have to monitor the humidity and change its quality:

Under the influence of watering, it can become salty (then it will have to be changed earlier);

It can stray into a dense crust (it needs to be loosened);

Either way, it will wear off over time. However, for several months after transplantation, it will be possible to safely forget about top dressing and fertilizers, even for those plants that love them very much.

Gfinalhemlesi for indoor plants.

On sale you can find the so-called "single garden mixture", special "universal earth mixtures" for different groups plants, peat-mineral mixtures (they are best used for rooting cuttings and for growing seedlings), artificial substrates. In the store, you can get advice from sellers, which mixture is suitable for what, in extreme cases, the packaging will indicate the main properties, such as acidity and approximate composition. AT recent times the instructions are increasingly listing the plants for which this soil mixture is intended.

Sometimes the earth mixture is also composed for narrower groups of plants, for example; mixtures "Palm" or "Begonia". They can differ in both acidity and mechanical structure, the degree of "lightness", friability, as well as the presence of special additives like pine bark, charcoal or bone meal. Some of the listed soil mixtures are very close in composition, but are produced by different manufacturers.

Specialized blends are better than generic blends because they better take into account individual requirements plants to the soil. However, some plants are completely undemanding to the soil, any "universal" earth mixture will suit them - this feature will be noted in the individual characteristics of the plants.

As a rule, earth mixtures are sold in packages packaged in 2 kg, somewhat less often - in 5 kg. Almost all are additionally enriched nutrients.

Here is a list of the most common soil mixtures on sale:

• Soil "Vermion" - universal
• Soil "Flower" - universal for decorative flowering species
• Primer "Exotica" - universal
• Soil "Cypress" - for coniferous plants
• Soil "Citrus" - for citrus fruits
• Soil "For Azaleas" - also suitable for growing camellias
• Soil "For begonia" - also suitable for peperomia, gloxinia, tradescantia and some others
• Soil "Begonia" - similar to the previous one
• Soil "For dracaena and yucca" - also suitable for agave, cordilina, palm trees, hibiscus
• Soil "Yukka" - similar to the previous one
• Soil "Palma" - for palm trees different types(available in different packaging - 2 and 5 kg)
• Soil "For palm trees" - also suitable for dracaena, yucca, cordilina, hibiscus, etc., different packaging
• Soil "For a rose" - also suitable for hibiscus, forcing carnations and chrysanthemums
• Soil "For violets" - also suitable for all plants of the Gesneriaceae family
• Soil "For gloxinia" - also suitable for begonias
• Soil "For araucaria" - also suitable for all conifers
• Soil "For gardenia" - also suitable for all plants of the madder family
• Soil "For dieffenbachia" - also suitable for any aroid
• Primer "For Jasmine" - also suitable for passionflower and many acanthus and kutra
• Soil "For arrowroot" - also suitable for stromantha, calathea, ferns
• Soil "Fern" - for ferns (except platicerium cultivated on the bark)
• Soil "For peperomia" - also suitable for other plants of the pepper family
• Soil "For spathiphyllum" - suitable for all aroid
• Soil "For tradescantia" - also suitable for dichorizandra, collisions and other commeline
• Primer "For orchids and bromeliads" - specialized
• Primer "Orchid" - specialized
• Soil "For mulberries" - any ficuses
• Primer "For cyclamen" - also suitable for any primroses.

Some of the earth mixtures listed here are very similar in composition, but are produced by different manufacturers.

! The range of soils is constantly changing and may not match in different regions in this case, the instructions on the package will come to your aid.

Transplanting houseplants.

A plant transplant is required when:

• The soil has been depleted and you don't want to mess around with fertilizer. By the way, even if you still regularly feed the plant, sooner or later the soil will be depleted, and you still have to replace it. In open ground, this phenomenon is fought using the principle of crop rotation - the periodic replacement of vegetation in a particular area. AT room conditions soil degradation occurs faster, since its volume in a pot is small, and the possibilities for self-healing are extremely limited. Therefore, houseplants should be repotted from time to time, even if external signs there is no such need. Even tub plants (which are transplanted much less often than others) are undesirable to be left in the same soil for more than three years. In such cases, only the soil changes, the capacity can remain the same. But if you are dealing with a species for which transplanting as such is undesirable due to the fragility of its roots and needs to be transshipped (what this means, you will read below), then the volume of the container must be increased. The fact that it is time to replant the plant is often signaled by the cessation of its growth, which did not occur during the dormant period.
• The capacity has become small. All flowers grow, and sooner or later the container in which they were kept becomes too cramped for them, literally. physical sense. Only a few species (like aspidistra) feel good in cramped conditions. When the roots do not have enough space, they cannot pull nutrients from the soil at full strength, and the soil is depleted more quickly. From excessive tightness, the roots intertwine the soil so that the earthen ball becomes too dense and the water will go around it without wetting the middle - there will be a problem of lack of moisture. In addition, the roots need to breathe, and air cannot freely enter the overly compacted soil. The fact that it is time to transplant a plant is sometimes seen by its very size in comparison with the pot: the latter can simply be lost against the background of green mass. Well, if the roots from tightness began to crawl out to the surface or into the hole at the bottom of the pot, you can’t delay the transplant! If the reason for the transplant is the immediate tightness of the pot or other container, transplanting and transshipment are equal, but the container must be changed.
• Sometimes there is a need for an emergency transplant, for example , if the earth is rotten(this will be signaled by the sour smell emanating from it and the painful appearance of the plant) or salted from long-term use of hard water (at the same time, white crystals form on the surface of the soil, and in ceramic pots, salt effusions can appear through their walls). Transshipment is excluded even for plants that do not tolerate transplantation - of the two risks, it is worth choosing the smaller one.
• If a the plant has been ill with any infectious disease, its pathogens can remain in the soil and lead to re-infection of both this flower and those nearby. Transshipment is undesirable, but possible - the soil, which cannot be replaced, should be additionally treated with appropriate preparations (depending on the disease). A transplant should be done when the flower has already recovered from the disease (during its transplant, it can be additional stress).
• If a a freshly bought flower grows in peat, which happens in the vast majority of cases. Peat allows young plant it is better to take root, but does not satisfy the needs of an adult flower. Such a plant can be transshipped, having only partially cleared the soil, so that its share becomes relatively small - then peat will play the role of fertilizer.

Do not repot plants during budding and flowering periods. (unless the transplant is urgent): they may drop buds or flowers.

It is undesirable to transplant weakened plants if their condition is not caused by the condition of the soil.

It is better to refrain from transplanting under bad (stressful for the plant) weather conditions: with strong heat in summer, with autumn or spring frosts(if the heating is not working).

Transplantation is of two types: actually transfer, in which the roots of the plant are completely cleared of the earth, and transshipment, when the plant is moved to a new container along with earthy clod. Plants with delicate and brittle roots that are easy to damage are usually transshipped.

Before transplanting, you should prepare a flower container in advance, i.e. a pot or tub.

With a “planned” transplant (that is, caused by plant growth), each new pot for small plants should be 2-3 cm wider in diameter, and up to 7 cm for large ones. Right size It is easy to pick up a ceramic pot by placing a plant in an old pot in it. The old pot should fit easily into the new one, and the gap between the edges should be about half a centimeter. AT too big pot the plant will quickly increase its green mass to the detriment of flowering, which is undesirable for ornamental-flowering species, and in soil that is not used by roots, fungi are easily planted, which can cause disease. In addition, purely aesthetically, a plant that is too small in a large pot does not look very attractive. AT too small pot the plant will grow more slowly, as it quickly uses up the supply of nutrients, and will soon begin to wither.

Try to choose the right ratio of height and width of the container: species with short roots feel better in squat ones, species with a developed root system - in tall pots.

in container necessarily there should be holes. In no case should a plant be planted in a pot without a hole: the moisture in it will stagnate, the earth will turn sour, the roots will rot from the moisture accumulated below (in the natural environment, excess moisture seeps into the lower horizons). For the same purpose, it is desirable (and for some species it is mandatory) to lay a layer of drainage in the pot.

For drainage can be used various materials: fragments of ceramics, broken brick (the fragments should be small, but not so small as to clog holes in the bottom of the pot), crushed stone, large pebbles, crumbled foam plastic (the latter is quite good for heat-loving plants, as an additional thermal insulating layer ). However, it is best to use special drainage, which is sold both separately and sometimes complete with ready-made soil mixtures: expanded clay or expanded vermiculite is offered as it, that is, substances that are also ameliorants (soil improvers). It is especially desirable to use them as drainage if your apartment is located near busy highways: expanded clay and vermiculite absorb heavy metals from the soil that enter it with gases.

The material from which the container is made is less important, but ceramic pots are still preferable, since their walls allow air and moisture to pass through. Plastic or metal containers do not have this ability, but they are stronger, easier to clean and often have a more attractive color. Glazed ceramic containers combine the positive aspects of both types, but are often more expensive.

Do not forget that pots, like the flowers themselves, can be a great decoration for a room. They can be selected (as well as painted or decorated) to match the furniture or walls, or, on the contrary, they can be turned into special color spots: the main thing is that they still harmonize with the rest of the interior. For aesthetic reasons, you can also use planters. Here everything is decided by your taste.

After the container is prepared and a layer of drainage is poured into it, proceed with the transplant.

It's done like this:

• Water the flower you are about to transplant well.
• Turn the container over, holding the plant by the stem, lightly hit its bottom with your hand ( large pots you can hit the side walls on the edge of the table) and take out the earthen clod.
• Carefully collapse or wash off the ground.
• If a continuous “fur coat” of small roots has formed near the walls, it must also be removed, having previously been cut in several places.
• Take a close look at the roots. Cut off the rotten ones (pathogenic bacteria or fungi can accumulate on them). It is advisable to sprinkle slices on large roots with crushed coal.
• If you decide to combine transplanting with propagation, for species that reproduce by dividing the bush or rhizomes, cut the plant sharp knife or a razor. For divisions (the so-called daughter plants obtained as a result of division), you need to prepare the appropriate number of containers. Some species can be separated simply by hand.
• Pour in not a large number of earth mixture into a pot and tamp it on top of the soil and the bottom of the walls.
• Carefully straighten the roots, place the plant so that they are in the middle of the container, and proceed to fill the pot with the remaining earth mixture, gradually pouring the soil in small portions from different sides so that it bends the roots as little as possible. Near the edges of the pot, the soil can be squeezed with your fingers, between the roots - direct its flow with a peg. Do not let the roots curl up.
• When the soil mixture is completely covered (from the soil surface to top edge pot should remain a distance of 1 to 4 cm, depending on the size of the container), it must be compacted by pressing hard enough from above, but carefully so as not to damage the plant. Be careful not to cover the root neck.
• Water the plant if it is not a succulent. Transfer completed!

Cacti and other succulents should not be watered either immediately or for some time after transplantation.

Do not be alarmed if the flower suddenly lost one or two lower leaves. For newly transplanted plants, this is natural.

During transshipment, the plant taken out of the former “house” is simply lowered into the prepared pot with drainage and a layer of compressed soil, after which the remaining space is filled with earth mixture and the flower is watered.

Partial replacement of soil for indoor plants.

Some houseplants difficult and sometimes impossible transplant or transship. It is not easy to extract a whole tree or a one and a half meter high prickly pear from a tub, and in offices large specimens are often grown in stationary concrete containers.

In these cases transplant is replaced partial replacement soil. To do this, earth is raked along the edges of the tub or container. It is better to do this with your hands, carefully beforehand, without touching the roots, loosening upper layer fork (or other handy tool). In this way, about a quarter of the total amount of land can be removed and replaced with new.

Since not all soil is renewed, it is advisable to do this a couple of times a year - in spring and autumn, and compensate for the lack of nutrients in depleted soil with the obligatory so-called basic fertilizer, in which the supply of nutrients is mixed with the soil. Of course, the less land that is replaced, the greater the fertilizer concentration should be.

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The focus is on the soil for indoor plants. We consider its types, main and additional components, as well as specialized soil for indoor flowers (orchids, azaleas, palm trees).

We also describe how you can disinfect the earth in several ways. More on all of this below!

Land for indoor plants: what is good?

The soil for indoor plants is a very important factor for development and growth. Buying potting mix for houseplants is now easy and simple.

The stores offer a large number of universal and special substrates. Ready-made soil mixes are great for most types of houseplants and flowers.

The soil for indoor flowers and plants can be prepared independently if you know their needs and have the necessary components at hand.

Good land for plants is a special nutrient mixture, which consists of certain components in the right proportions.

Different types of plants need different types of soil mixture, including those with an acid-base index (Ph). Neutral or slightly acidic soil is suitable for most indoor plants and flowers.

• For example, they love acidic soil: azalea, hydrangea, camellia. Slightly acidic: begonia, fern, cyclamen, pelargonium, fuchsia. Alkaline: carnation, lily, cineraria.

Soil for indoor plants: the main components

SODD LAND

One of the main components of the soil mixture. This type land is obtained after the cut sod (top layer of soil) in the meadows and fields is laid in layers on top of each other with the addition of organic fertilizers (manure) between them.

Such a “pie” lies for two years, then it is sifted, packaged in bags and sent for sale.

Soddy soil for preparing your own soil mixtures is often replaced with garden soil, but clean and fertile, or soil is collected from wormholes.

LEAF EARTH

In autumn, leaves are collected (preferably - maple, linden, apple, ash; you can’t - oak, willow, chestnut, poplar). Then slaked lime is added and compost is made.

In a young forest, the top layer of soil is removed, and in an old forest, you can dig deeper. Deciduous land is quite light and loose, together with sand it is used for growing seeds and planting cuttings.

HUMUS

Humus pH 5-6. Fresh manure (cow, horse) is piled, covered with black polyethylene, and sieved after two years.

• Signs of high-quality humus: uniformity, friability and the absence of a strong odor. For indoor plants and flowers, biohumus should be used instead of humus.

SAND

It is recommended to use only large clean river sand. Sand transports air to the root system, has good water permeability. Therefore, it is an important component for most soil mixtures.

PEAT

For indoor plants, peat is used in factory packaging (high-moor peat is acidic, and lowland peat is slightly acidic). Peat is one of the main components for the vast majority of soil mixtures.

• Fresh peat for potting crops can only be used after it has become uniform, free-flowing and soft.

Peat improves the quality of the substrate, increases its friability and makes it lighter. Due to its properties, peat is used for germinating seeds and planting cuttings.

coniferous land(pH 4-5).

Under coniferous trees, the top layer of soil is removed, mixed together with a small amount of sand and peat. This soil mixture is well suited for azaleas, begonias, gloxinia, violets.

Soil Mix Components

Soil for indoor plants: additional components

CHARCOAL

It is formed after burning wood, and is also suitable for using charcoal for grilling (it is crushed into fractions with a diameter of no more than one centimeter).

The ready-made store version is contained in substrates for bromeliads and orchids. Charcoal can be bought and added separately to the mixture at the time of transplanting, especially in case of root rot.

Coal increases the friability and water permeability of the substrate, they are also sprinkled with wounds on stems, leaves, roots of indoor plants and flowers.

WOOD ASH

CONIER BARK

The bark is removed from old trees, crushed and boiled in water for at least 30 minutes. Add to the soil substrate for anthuriums, epiphytes, ferns and orchids. It has a pH of 4-4.5.

HORN FLOUR

Used as phosphate fertilizer in a ratio of 1:30 (horn meal: soil mixture).

SPHAGNUM

Retains moisture in the soil, increases friability. Sphagnum moss pH around 4.

IMPORTANT! The ratio of the components of the soil mixture is determined, as a rule, by volume, and not by weight. For example, sand is heavy and peat is light.

Soil for indoor plants: types

The main types of substrates: deciduous, coniferous, peat, heather, sod, clay and compost. Soil mixtures are divided into two main groups according to the type of base: soil or peat.

Most plants adapt equally well to both types of substrate.

SOIL SUBSTRATE

The basis of the mixture is meadow turf with fertilizers. Sometimes contains natural substances from farming or forestry. Especially for indoor plants, the mixture consists of soil, peat, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, bone and blood meal, and sand.

BENEFITS. Long-term supply of nutrients to a houseplant, creating a stable basis for large specimens and wide range of mix types for various kinds.

LIMITATIONS. Variable composition, high weight, more easily soiled, in comparison with the peat substrate.

PEAT SUBSTRATE

A popular and widespread type of substrate. Excellent soil for potted plants based on peat. The substrate is light and easy to use, has proven itself positively around the world.

Loved by many experienced flower growers, and gives excellent results. When planting, compact in a pot.

BENEFITS. Light weight, easy to use at home, high quality from most manufacturers.

LIMITATIONS. Poor stability of pots with large houseplants, it is difficult to saturate with moisture after a strong drying out, needs to be fed already in the early stages, as nutrients are quickly depleted.

Peat is an important component of the soil substrate for the favorable development of plants.

We told you about the main types of soil substrates, the so-called potting soil, we hope that the information provided will help you achieve the desired result!

How to disinfect the ground for indoor plants and flowers?

There are several ways to disinfect the land: heating, freezing, treatment with fungicides and insecticides.

AVAILABLE METHOD

Heating in a metal bowl cooker. At the bottom of the pan, sand is poured with a layer of 2-3 cm, and on top of the earth (component). When heated, moisture begins to evaporate from the sand and the steam warms the earth. Approximate duration: 50-60 minutes for a 10 liter saucepan.

STERILIZATION

Concerning sterilization various opinions are expressed.

The magazine "Celebration of Flowers" believes that the microflora in the earth is useful for plants and its elimination negatively affects their development. Therefore, the method of warming up the earth described above can be used if the processed component in the soil mixture occupies less than 25% of the total volume.

You can restore the microflora of the earth with the help of special preparations with live microorganisms: "Renaissance", "Baikal M", "Vostok EM-1" and others.

Approximately 3-4 weeks after transplantation root system is restored and you can start using these drugs.

• At the same time, for some components, sterilization is desirable, for example, coconut fiber, tree bark.

Specialized soil for indoor plants and flowers

GROUND FOR AZALEA. The mixture is light, acidic, moisture and breathable. In store options, the basis of the substrate should be high-moor peat. It is advisable to supplement the soil for azaleas with coniferous soil (1: 1).

GROUND FOR BROMELIAIDS. The mixture consists of high-moor peat, leaf ground and sand. AT purchased soil it is desirable to add tree bark or coal, sphagnum and coniferous soil.

GROUND FOR GARDENIA. The mixture consists of high-moor peat and sand. It is desirable to add leaf and coniferous soil (1: 1: 1) to the purchased soil.

GROUND FOR CACTUS AND SUCCULANTS. The mixture consists of sand with the addition of leafy soil and high-moor peat. Coarse-grained sand can be added to option stores.

GROUND FOR ORCHIDS. Different types of orchids need different nutrient substrates. For epiphytes, the soil mixture is prepared from the bark, sometimes sphagnum moss and charcoal are added (peat is not allowed!).

You can buy a certain fraction of the bark, boil it and plant an orchid without adding other components.

For other types of orchids, the substrate is prepared from peat, sphagnum, bark and coal.

SOIL FOR PALM. The mixture consists of high-moor peat, turf and leaf soil with sand. Palm trees prefer a loose and breathable substrate. With age, plants share sod land gradually increase in the mixture.

GROUND FOR FERN. You can prepare this version of the mixture: soil for succulents + leaf humus (or biohumus) in a ratio of 1: 1.

Some of the options for a specialized potting mix for houseplants.

We hope that now the soil for indoor plants and flowers in your home will be optimal. If you have any questions, we will be happy to answer them!

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

We wish you a lot beautiful flowers in the house and happiness in life!

Growing indoor flowers in your home, you need to make sure that they feel as comfortable as possible. To achieve this goal, first of all, you need to choose the right soil that will combine all the qualities that this or that plant needs.

Types of garden land are conventionally divided into 3 groups, each of which has its own individual characteristics and is suitable for certain plants.

Light ground

This soil is perfect for growing flowers with a superficial root system, these include aloe, begonia, cyclament and gloxinia. It is also successfully used for rooting cuttings and growing seedlings. Standard scheme for the preparation of light soil includes the following elements:

• 3 parts of peat;
• 1 part of leaf land;
• 1 part of humus;
• 1 part sand.

Medium soil

Most indoor plants prefer this particular soil composition, because it is optimal and balanced. This soil mixture is prepared from the following components:

• 2 parts of sod land;
• 2 parts of humus;
• 1 part sand;
• 1 part peat.

heavy soils

This species is suitable for large plants with a branched and powerful root system, which is deep enough. An example of such flowers are palm trees, dracaena and clivia. Usually, a heavy soil mixture is prepared from the following components:

• 1 part of humus;
• 1 part coarse sand;
• 5 parts soddy soil.

Knowing the preferences of plants regarding the quality of the earth, you can easily cook it yourself at home. All components can be prepared and assembled with your own hands or purchased at a specialized store.

Benefits of homemade soil

Soil for indoor flowers, prepared with your own hands, has a lot of advantages:

1. In the manufacture of the soil mixture, you can add all the necessary components to it and choose the proportions in such a way that they are suitable specifically for the grown flowers. The soil bought in the store often consists of peat diluted with useful minerals and trace elements, and mixtures for various types of plants have average indicators;
2. Self-made soil will help to simplify the care of the plant, because if you properly balance all the components, you can ensure the necessary circulation of moisture and reduce the number of mandatory top dressings;
3. With proper manufacture, home soil will be as close as possible to natural conditions habitat plantings, moreover, such land is softer and unpretentious in care;
4. Harvesting the land yourself you can control its acidity level and fertility, which will help to avoid mistakes when growing indoor flowers.

How to prepare the ground at home?

First of all, you need to find out about the preferences of the grown flower. and select the composition of the soil in accordance with them. It is also very important to know what components may be part of the soil mixture:

1. Sod or sod land- to make your own this species soil may take several years. Throughout the spring or early summer, you need to take several layers of soil from fertile meadows or fields, stack them on top of each other and mix with manure. In this form, the soil mixture will be infused for 1-2 years. Before adding such soil to a flower pot, it must be well sifted;
2. leaf ground, as the name implies, should be prepared from the green part garden trees such as apple, ash or linden. In late autumn, immediately after leaf fall, the leaves are collected, put into a barrel and mixed with slaked lime. After the leaves rot, they can be used as a component in the preparation of soil for indoor plants;
3. Peat can be purchased at flower shops or on specialized bases. When buying this component, you need to pay attention to the fact that it should be soft and crumbly. Only in this case, peat will be useful for the life of plants;
4. Sand is an indispensable component of a large number of soil compositions. Thanks to this component, the soil will become more breathable, and the root system will receive required amount oxygen. Sand can be collected independently, but only in this case it will be necessary to clean it of impurities that may be contained in it;
5. Humus can be easily prepared from cow or horse manure. To do this, it is collected in one place and tightly covered with a film or cloth. In this form, manure should lie for at least two years. The resulting humus should be crumbly and uniform, the pungent odor that was present initially should disappear;
6. Compost is made in the same way as humus, only plant and food waste is used instead of manure;
7. Many plants are very fond of additives, consisting of the bark of coniferous trees, which is removed, boiled and crushed;
8. Another popular additive is pine needles. It is harvested by removing the top layer of soil along with coniferous litter. First, it is composted together with sand and peat. The needles are mixed with the main soil only after the decay process has passed;
9. Make the soil looser and you can avoid its acidification with the help of sphagnum moss or charcoal.

Needles are added to the composition of the soil of those plants that prefer to grow in an acidic environment.

Also a very important component of the earth is the drainage layer, which is laid on the bottom. flower pot. It can be independently made from fine expanded clay, perlite, marble chips or broken brick. The use of drainage when growing plants promotes proper air and water circulation during irrigation.

To prepare perfect soil for your plant, you need to study its needs and natural habitats and, based on the information obtained, make the correct soil mixture. It is also very important to observe the level of fertility and acidity of the soil, because these indicators affect the health and growth rate of the plant. If the prepared soil is unsuitable for a flower, it will most likely die, so every little thing must be taken into account when performing such work.

Sod can be replaced with fertile and well-fertilized garden soil.

Self-production of soil for indoor plants is not only a very interesting, but useful activity. By doing this work, you can better know the structure and preference of the plant. In this case, flower care will be greatly simplified, because manually prepared soil will have all necessary properties and reduce the plant's need for additional procedures.

Land for indoor flowers needs a special one so that it does not dry out quickly or, conversely, does not turn into a clay lump. This is what we will talk about today in continuation of our topic about home cultivation plants.

Before heading to the garden center for shopping, it's worth brushing up on your knowledge of home flowers:

But back to "our sheep" - what kind of soil for indoor plants is best.
First, I’ll tell you which soil is completely unsuitable for these purposes: soil taken from a flower bed or from a garden. Loose and fertile, in a pot it tends to become stone and is completely unsuitable for the home.

For planting indoor plants you need special compound. You can cook them yourself or buy them ready-made in the store.

About ready planting mixtures(substrates), usually used for growing home flowers, it is worth talking in more detail.

Why ready-made soil mixes are not suitable for indoor plants

Ready-made substrates that go on sale under the proud name "Soil Mix" actually have nothing to do with the soil. They consist mainly of red (moor) or black (lowland) peat with the addition mineral fertilizers and other components (coconut fiber, vermiculite, charcoal, etc.), depending on which plants they are intended for.

What the manufacturer usually reports in small print somewhere at the bottom of the package, heading this revelation - "Composition of the mixture."

Have you ever read it?

Most of the failures in growing indoor flowers are due to the use of ready-made (read: peat) substrates.

There is no doubt that it is very convenient to use ready-made planting soils. No need to look for different types of soil, no need to harvest them for future use and store them in the house, occupying the space necessary for life. Compositions based on peat are light, absorb water well. On sale you can find such a hodgepodge for all types of plants. And this would be the solution to the problem for most fans, if not for one but ...

But the peat composition is unstable, it dries quickly. All peat assorted should be kept constantly wet - when dry, they hardly absorb moisture. But most of your green pets require the earth to dry out between waterings. And some of them do not tolerate excess moisture at all.

That is why a flower in such a soil substrate is easy to fill.

In peat formulations, fertilizer reaches the root system much faster than in earthen ones, but it is easily washed out during irrigation. Therefore, a few weeks after transplanting, you will have to feed the plant. Do you know that the dose of fertilizer when feeding is not always easy to determine? At the same time, it is easy to “overfeed” your pet or, conversely, make him “starve”!

Using ready-made peat-based substrates, you create additional difficulties for yourself.

The exception is compositions with the addition of biohumus. Humus (chernozem) is a soil rich in organic matter. Such formulations are less common and usually more expensive than peat-based substrates.

We conclude:

Land for indoor flowers should be prepared with your own hands.

Don't be scared, it's not difficult at all.

A little information about various types soil will help you figure it out.

Characteristics of garden land

It is quite porous and elastic. It can be found in the meadow closest to your home. It is enough to take a good sod (a layer of soil with grass roots, 15-20 cm deep), chop it and sift it with a sieve. Plant residues can be discarded, and what remains will be sod land.

Deciduous (leafy)

This is a light, loose and quite nutritious soil, which is formed from the annual decay of foliage and branches in a grove, in a forest or in a planting. Finding leafy soil is easiest in places with densely growing deciduous trees, in which the foliage is not removed, but remains on the surface and rots. Remove the top layer of freshly fallen leaves and collect the soil that is under it, but no deeper than 10-15 cm, with the remnants of well-rotted last year's foliage.

humus
Obtained from rotted manure. It is light, fluffy and very rich in nutrients. In the village, finding humus soil is quite easy. In the city, you can get it in greenhouses.
AT pure form sand is used for cuttings.

It is added to all mixtures in an amount of 10-20 percent.

The best is coarse-grained river or lake sand.

We prepare the ground for indoor flowers at home

Recipe one:

Such a mixture is called heavy. This soil composition is suitable for indoor plants with thick coarse roots: dracaena, monstera, large trees.

Recipe two:

This mixture is called medium. It is suitable for plants with roots of medium thickness: aspidistra, large spathiphyllums, anthuriums, small shrubs.

Recipe three:

This mixture is called light. It is suitable for species with fine delicate roots and all herbaceous species.

Recipe Four - universal soil for indoor plants:

Useful in the event that you could not find soddy and humus soil.

In the literature for flower growers there are complex recipes with the addition of various exotic components. For example: coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, brick or marble chips, perlite, etc. It is believed that some types of flowers grow better with such additives.

But the truth is that plants are very flexible and easily adapt to other types of soil mixtures as long as they contain enough nutrients. Therefore, do not complicate your life by looking for rare soil additives. The above recipes will suit almost all your green pets.

So, the sixth secret in growing indoor plants

To avoid difficulties in caring for house plants, the ground for indoor flowers must be prepared with one's own hands according to one of the above recipes.

It should be noted right away that it is wrong to call the substrate in a pot soil. Soil is a single living organism, consisting of connected layers (horizons) and formed on a certain parent rock, depending on the climate, relief and activity of soil organisms over a long period of time. So the soil becomes fertile and able to recreate itself. As soon as we take a piece of soil and carry it home, it immediately turns into a kind of more or less fertile substrate. Therefore, we will call the substance in the pot soil or substrate. Its main purpose is to support the plant and carry water and nutrients to the roots, to give access to air. Providing plants with nutrition is not the primary function of soils, and our task is to timely and correctly introduce nutrients into the substrate. Soils can be made not only from natural materials taken from nature, but also from artificial ones, for example, hydrogel, perlite or expanded clay - with a hydroponic growing method.

When choosing soil for a particular plant, it is necessary to understand what kind of soil it needs in terms of composition and acidity. To do this, it is useful to read special literature, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the biology and growing conditions of your favorite plant.

Despite the wide variety of soils on store shelves, almost all of them are divided into several groups. During the production process, substances that regulate acidity, fertilizers (usually long-acting) are added to the base, sometimes sand, expanded clay chips, perlite and other components are added.

Soils based on high-moor peat. They are probably the majority. Raised peat is the result of the decomposition of sphagnum moss that grows in raised bogs. It is poor in minerals, after extraction it quickly loses its fertility. Based on it, a transport soil was prepared, in which plants are transported, and which is also used by our nurseries. Its advantage is lightness, hygroscopicity, breathability. The disadvantages include such high ability retain water, that at a certain soil moisture, the roots no longer absorb it; on the contrary, after complete drying, it is difficult to wet it. Soils based on high-moor peat serve as a substrate for almost all indoor flowers.

Soils based on lowland peat. Such peat is extracted from lowland swamps, wetlands of rivers and lakes. It is heavy, richer in minerals, which, however, are released slowly. In its pure form, it is better not to use it for transplanting indoor flowers, as it remains wet for a long time, has a fine structure and quickly cakes, making it difficult for air to reach the roots and causing them to rot. It can only be used as a component in the preparation of land mixtures.

Soils based on biohumus. Biohumus is obtained by processing manure by certain lines of earthworms; it contains not only a high percentage of organic matter, but also beneficial living microorganisms. It is used in small quantities to enrich the earth mixture, it can serve as a substitute for leaf or herbal humus.

Many manufacturers offer ready-made soils for different groups of plants, however, you should check the recommendations for the composition of the soil for a particular plant type. Sometimes it is necessary to make adjustments, for this it is desirable to always have a few more components on hand to prepare the soil that is optimal in composition for a particular plant.

For this you may need:

• sand, which is desirable to take in unpolluted places along the banks of rivers, but can also be bought in flower shops. Sand should be sifted through a sieve to get rid of debris and large stones, and washed in water to remove dust and dirt. It serves as a good additional additive to prepared soils for cacti and succulents, palm trees and other plants, prevents them from caking.
• sphagnum moss sold in flower shops, its pH is about 4. It is added to prepare loose, light, breathable acidic substrates for Uzambara violets and other representatives of Gesneriaceae, for aroids, orchids, azaleas.
• pine bark, which can be bought in a store or collected from cut down plants, has a pH of 4-4.5. Before use, it must be boiled for at least 30 minutes. It is added to soils for epiphytes, bromeliads, anthuriums, philodendrons and other plants that need a loose, moist substrate. Serves as the only soil component for some orchids, including phalaenopsis.
• coniferous land gathers under coniferous trees, contains fallen and partially rotted needles. Cones and branches that have fallen into it should be removed. It is a loose, poor, acidic soil with a pH of 4-5. Serves integral part for plants that prefer an acidic soil reaction and require increased friability of the substrate, for example, for precious orchids.
• herbal or leaf humus formed by decay of leaves or grass, pH 5-6. Replaces rotted manure, which should not be used for indoor flowers. It serves as a component for soil mixtures for plants that need enhanced organic nutrition, such as ferns, etc. Biohumus can serve as an adequate substitute for it.
• sod land It is formed when turf is composted, but it can be collected in the forest from fresh molehills, where the earth is loose and contains practically no debris and plant roots. AT middle lane soddy land is usually loam. A small amount of clay helps to structure the soil and retain moisture. Clay, due to its layered structure, retains ions on itself, does not allow nutrients to quickly wash out, thereby reducing the amount of top dressing. Under young plants, when transplanting, add a little sod land, increasing its share as it grows. It is a good soil component for palms and other plants. It is advisable to add soddy soil to prevent rapid (during the day) drying of the substrate, especially when keeping plants on the balcony in summer.
• charcoal sold in flower shops, included in the substrates for orchids, bromeliads and other plants, it should be added to fresh soil when transplanting in case of root rot. They are sprinkled with wounds and cuts on the roots, stems and leaves to prevent the development of rot.

Guided by knowledge of the needs of plants and having ready-made purchased substrates and additional components on hand, you can prepare a soil mixture for almost all indoor flowers. Sometimes perlite, vermiculite, polystyrene are also used, mineral wool, foam.

Before use, the soil must be subjected to heat treatment, this will save in the future from problems with root nematodes, earthworms, centipedes and other soil inhabitants. A simple way is to place washed raw sand on the bottom of a large saucepan with a layer of several centimeters, and on top of it - the other components of the mixture. The pot is placed on the stove and heated. Water evaporating from the bottom layer of sand in the form of steam heats up the rest of the soil volume. Steam should be until the top layer is heated (a 10-liter pan warms up in about 40-60 minutes).

But heat treatment leads to the inevitable death of beneficial soil microorganisms, and without their vital activity, plants cannot absorb organic fertilizers. About a month after transplantation, when the roots are fully restored, you should begin to populate the soil with special microorganisms and constantly maintain their numbers. This will help special preparations containing live microorganisms, such as Baikal, Vozrozhdenie, Vostok EM-1, as well as organic fertilizers of the Ecostyle brand, containing soil microflora.

Specialized soils for indoor plants

Soil for cacti and succulents
The main requirements for this soil are water permeability and nutrient poverty. Such soils contain a large amount of sand (about half), the rest may be high-moor peat, leafy soil. For cacti, you can add a little more coarse sand to the purchased soil.
For a group of forest cacti, a universal soil based on high-moor peat is quite suitable.

soil for orchids
Purchased soils for orchids usually contain several components - peat, sphagnum, coal, bark. It is with these substrates that the greatest confusion occurs. There is no single soil for orchids, because among them there are groups of different habitats. For ground orchids, the purchased soil meets the requirements, but there are epiphytic orchids that live on trees, such soil is categorically not suitable for them. For this group it is necessary to use only bark, sometimes sphagnum moss and coal, but in no case should peat be added. It's easier to buy separately the bark desired faction and after boiling, plant an orchid in it.
Soil for orchids with the addition of high-moor peat (1: 1) is optimally suited for anthuriums, philodendrons, monstera, bromeliads.

soil for bromeliads
Such soils consist mainly of high-moor peat with the addition of leafy earth and sand. To give more looseness, you can add small pieces of bark, chopped sphagnum, coniferous soil, as well as coal, or prepare it on the basis of orchid soil, adding about half of the universal soil based on high-moor peat.

Soil for palm trees
All palm trees love loose and breathable soil; substrates based on high-moor peat with the addition of sand, leafy and sod land are suitable for them. As the palm grows, everything is added to the substrate large quantity sod land.

Soil for ferns
Ferns in nature grow in very loose, moist, organic-rich soil. To make a mixture, you can add leaf humus or biohumus-based soil (1: 1) to the soil for succulents (peat, sand and a low content of mineral fertilizers).

Ground for uzambara violets and other gesneriaceae
For this group of plants, an acidic substrate based on high-moor peat is optimal. It is advisable to add a little sand or perlite, coniferous earth, coal, for greater moisture capacity and friability, it is good to add chopped sphagnum.

Ground for gardenias
In a purchased substrate for gardenias, consisting of high-moor peat and sand, it is advisable to add approximately equal parts of leafy soil (or humus soil) and coniferous soil. Be sure to use only acidic mixtures.