Fungal diseases of flowers. Diseases of garden plants

​Related Articles​

Late autumn plowing (digging) of soil in the garden

Agrotechnical method of pest control

The eggs of the apple red mite are very small (0.1 - 0.15 mm), have a round shape and, when viewed through a strong magnifying glass, look like red balls that look like eggs.

Aphids settle on roses and secrete a sticky liquid that coats the stems and leaves of roses. Ants feed on this sweetish liquid. If a large number of ants are seen on roses, then they are most likely affected by aphids. Ants protect aphids from their natural enemies. The absence of ants does not affect aphid-affected roses in the best way, since there is no one to eat the nectar and, as a result, all rose bushes may be covered with aphid products. This leads to an increased risk of black mold. The appearance of roses also suffers.

The leaves become creamy white, stop developing, eventually become deformed and fall off. The stems begin to crack, the flower petals lose their natural color, do not develop and fall off. As a rule, downy mildew is found already at the stage of leaf fall. If you do not take action, then the roses may die. The disease is especially dangerous in wet weather, in dry and hot weather the development of the disease stops.

Prevention.

Prevention

Mechanical pest control

A disease caused by fungi from the genus Fusarium.

Chemical control of pests and diseases

​Text and photo​

• Insecticides - quality insecticides.
• Possible plant pestsLand plots on which gardeners and summer residents grow various crops need careful and meticulous care. It includes timely fertilization of the soil, plowing, weed removal, resting the land (“fallow”), watering, planting quality plants, and so on. But there is another factor that must be taken into account in order to get a considerable and high-quality crop - pest control.
• Violates the wintering conditions of pests and pathogens. It is better to cultivate the soil after leaf fall in order to bury fallen leaves in the ground. AT small gardens before digging, raking the leaves and burning them or folding them into compost heaps is practiced. In the latter case, the leaves must be covered with earth or peat.
• Butterflies of many types of leafworms lay their eggs in the form of small (up to 1 cm in diameter) plaques, usually painted to match the color of the bark. In each such clutch there are up to 100 eggs.
• Prevention
• Prevention

Control measures.

Biological pest control

To prevent rose rust, it is necessary to remove fallen leaves in time and do this not only during autumn harvesting, but also in summer, so that spores do not infect healthy parts of plants.

. Proper care, timely feeding, pruning, shelter for the winter will help protect roses not only from black spot, but also from many other diseases. Here are some preventive tips:

DachaDecor.ru

Garden pests and plant diseases. Prevention

Control of garden pests and plant diseases. Preventive methods

Plant tissues, rot of roots, fruits and seeds are affected. At temperatures below plus 16 ° C, diseased plants die quickly enough.

Selection of plants and planting material

​When using chemicals to combat diseases and pests, the most important thing is the timely and uniform distribution of the correct amount of the drug throughout the garden. It is impossible to leave some parts of the land without impact, and create centers of chemical impact on others. In addition, the uneven distribution of pesticides can lead to the fact that a small part of insects will not be destroyed and will be able to develop immunity to the drug, which is fraught with new hordes of pests.

A huge number of pests eat the color of plants, foliage, fruit ovary and the fruits of plants, leaving the owners of the site "with a nose", and we should choose the right method of controlling plant pests in order to preserve our garden and garden and prevent the eating of fruits by a beetle, midge and aphids. There are several operating methods pest control, which we will consider in more detail in our article. Hawthorn nests and dry fruits are removed from the high parts of the crowns with a pole, at the end of which simple devices are put on in the form of paws, slingshots, brushes, etc. Goldentail nests firmly attached, so they are cut with air secateurs along with a twig. When collecting goldentail nests, gloves should be used to avoid skin irritation with poisonous hairs of caterpillars.

Rotation (crop rotation) of annual crops

The ringed silkworm lays its eggs on young twigs. The oviposition tightly covers the twig in the form of a ring. In each ring, the width of which reaches 1.5 cm, there are up to 400 eggs, similar to very hard beads.

plant health

. Prevention, as well as the fight against aphids, is desirable to carry out without the use of chemicals. It would be even better to abandon them altogether. Such natural enemies of aphids as insects and birds will cope with the task more successfully than any chemistry. If you use toxic agents, then you can kill bugs, spiders and flies that feed on aphids. For example, wasps and ladybugs love aphids. The latter are generally capable of destroying about 250 aphids per day. The use of chemicals is able to scare away birds and lizards from roses, which also feed on aphids.

garden hygiene

. Downy mildew appears from exposure to waterlogged soil and cold, moist air. If the seedlings are stored in the basement, then their stems should not be often moistened, because this can kill the plant. To prevent the development of the disease, it is necessary to provide access to fresh air to the seedlings. As a preventive measure during the growing season, potash and phosphorus fertilizers should be applied on time so that the roses develop resistance to downy mildew.

The right combination of plants

It is necessary to regularly remove and destroy parts of plants affected by the disease, and in this way it is possible not only to fight powdery mildew, but also to increase the flow of fresh air to all parts of plants. If a rose bush is severely affected by the disease, then it must be dug up and burned - it is better to sacrifice one plant to save all the others.

Natural harmony in the garden

Rose hips are more susceptible to rust, so if it is present in the garden, you need to monitor the appearance of signs of the disease. Rust fungus spores are carried by the wind, so you need to destroy the affected parts of the plants in time.

❧ buy seedlings only from trusted suppliers;

When it appears: Oksana Jeter, CountrysideLiving.net ​This is the most humane way that cannot harm the environment or the person using chemical methods pest control. This method is simple and based on the laws of nature, because there are many animals that eat insects - frogs, lizards, hedgehogs, bats, and so on. This method consists in the prevention of diseases and the appearance of a large number of pests, that is, in prevention. Initially, it is required to study the composition of the soil on the site and determine its quality, which consists in many factors - nutritional value, duration of use, groundwater level, acidity, etc. It is imperative to take into account each indicator before starting the formation of a garden, vegetable garden, greenhouse.

countrysideliving.net

Fusarium, control measures and prevention

Attracting tits and other insectivorous birds to gardens Many species of scale insects also overwinter on the bark of trees and shrubs. The comma-shaped and willow scale insects overwinter in the stage of eggs under the scutes of dead females. The comma-shaped scale insects have milky-white eggs, while the willow eggs are red, the shape of the eggs is elongated-oval, 0.3 mm long.

Control measures.​​❧ During the Renaissance, dew on rose petals was considered a symbol of the goddess Venus, as it had incredible beauty and a captivating aroma, and rose thorns symbolized wounds and suffering from love. After destroying parts of roses affected by powdery mildew, it is recommended to spray . For this purpose, you can use drugs such as Skor, Fitosporin, Baktofit, Topaz. If the first signs of powdery mildew appear on the roses, you need to spray the plants with fungicides containing sulfur, and after 1-2 weeks, if necessary, repeat the spraying. A large number of sulfur is in garlic, so you need to plant it next to rose bushes to prevent the development of powdery mildew. You can also create powdery mildew solutions at home using squeezed garlic juice. If you spray roses in time, it is easy to prevent the development of powdery mildew, as well as to simplify the fight against it if the fungus still affects the plants.

Control measures.

​❧ during the autumn harvest, it is important to collect and burn all the leaves that have fallen from roses, as well as cut and destroy the affected shoots; In the presence of insect damage.​ ​

What it looks like:

​As you can see, there are various methods of pest control and each of them is quite effective, but in order to get rid of pests or plant diseases for a long period, we advise you to use a complex effect and combine different methods of pest control and garden diseases , then you will get the perfect result. We recommend learning how to get rid of mosquitoes in the country.​

Be sure to determine the level at which they are ground water, they already affect some plants, especially with a powerful and deep root system, which can rot or get wet due to high groundwater.Nesting in hollows, it is carried out by hanging near the garden and on buildings in the garden of titmice and birdhouses. Usually artificial nests are hung in early spring by the time the snow melts. Titmouses are better to hang out in the fall. In winter, tits will hide in them from the weather and may remain nesting in the summer.

What is dangerous:

Under the old dead bark, in various cracks and other secluded places of boles and main branches, caterpillars of apple and plum codling moths find shelter for wintering (some of the caterpillars hibernate in the upper soil layer). They gnaw out small oval indentations in the bark and cover themselves with dense spider cocoons.

The aphid has a very delicate and soft body, so you can get rid of it by simply running a soft cloth over the affected areas. Thus, it is easy to control the number of insects. You should also not feed roses for some time if aphids are seen on them, as a result, young shoots will stop developing, and therefore there will be no additional food source for aphids.

In addition to sulfur, a baking soda solution that should be sprayed once a week helps fight powdery mildew. Soda helps to increase the pH of the surface of the rose leaf, which prevents the development of powdered spores on it. When treating roses with preparations with sulfur or baking soda, you need to make sure that both the top and Bottom part leaves. If the roses show signs of illness, it is necessary to remove and burn the affected parts. It is also recommended to thin out rose bushes, which will allow air to circulate freely and prevent high humidity. You can spray against the disease with fungicides, re-spraying is carried out 1-1.5 weeks after the 1st. Against the rust of roses, preparations such as Abiga-peak, Topaz, as well as copper sulfate and Bordeaux liquid are suitable.

❧ it is necessary to fertilize regularly, in reasonable quantities, otherwise the stems of roses will become thick and flowers will not form;

How to fight:

Fusarium

Organic farming means protecting plants from pests and diseases in natural, natural ways. Mankind has successfully used and perfected such methods for centuries. Garden protection should begin with preventive measures, because prevention is often better and easier than cure.

It is required to correctly calculate the timing of planting plants in open ground, since weak plants or their seedlings, planted early, may die due to non-compliance with the deadlines. It is also necessary to alternate plants on the ground, which helps to avoid some plant diseases.

During the winter, especially with heavy snowfall and sleet, it is necessary to feed the tits and other insectivorous birds wintering in their permanent habitats. Birds are fed with sunflower seeds, watermelon, hemp, bread crumbs, various grain waste, bones with meat residues, pieces of unsalted bacon, dry berries, etc.

sadsamslabo.ru

During the years of the mass appearance of the gypsy moth on the boles of trees (usually at their base), you can find laying eggs of this pest. In choosing places for laying eggs, butterflies are illegible: they can be found on tree stumps, on the lower parts of buildings, on fences, etc. The clutches look like oval-rounded cakes, 2-3 cm in diameter, densely covered with a layer of yellowish hairs. Each clutch can contain up to 500 eggs.​

Black spotted roses

Instead of chemicals, you can spray roses with a jet of water from a hose. When watering roses, aphids will be destroyed by splashes of water, and the remaining individuals will be eaten by birds or insects. Watering roses in this way is recommended for a week every other day, which will help to significantly reduce the number of aphids and restrain their spread throughout the site.

If symptoms of the disease are found on roses, it is necessary to cut and burn the affected parts of the plants. Then they should be sprayed with fungicides, such as Bordeaux liquid, Benomyl, Kuproksat, Topaz. Fallen leaves and petals affected by downy mildew must be collected and burned. The disease perfectly tolerates wintering on the fallen affected areas of the leaves, so you need to get rid of them.

To prepare a solution of baking soda at home 1 tsp. soda is diluted in 1 liter of water, and then a few drops of liquid soap are added. Before spraying roses with this solution, you need to make sure that the plant will tolerate such a procedure well. Why should you apply the solution to several leaves and observe them for a couple of days. If there are no changes, you can safely spray roses. Powdery mildew is one of the most common diseases, and not only roses. Its causative agent is the fungus Sphaerotheca pannosa, which has a huge number of varieties, because this disease affects both roses and other flowers, as well as berries, fruit and vegetable plants.

Unfavorable conditions of detention, sharp fluctuations in temperature and humidity of air and soil, lack of soil nutrition, too dense soil, excess moisture.

- a disease of plants (cultivated and wild) caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium (for example, Fusarium vasinfectum or oxysporum).

See Continued: Garden Pests and Plant Diseases: Natural Controls​

Resistance to many diseases, as well as to some pests, can also guarantee timely fertilization of the soil, as well as its loosening, which must be done at certain periods. Do not forget about the removal of plant debris from the landing area. In crumbled leaves, under a layer of weeds, in dry grass, insects can be everywhere that damage the plant from the outside and from the inside.

Mouse-like rodents (voles and mice) damage fruit plants in the second half of winter, gnawing boles and branches under the snow cover; water voles (water rats) gnaw on the main roots. Rodents usually live and accumulate in virgin and weedy areas in heaps of old manure, places of accumulation of plant debris and other debris. To save the plantation from damage, it is necessary to keep garden plots clean, remove plant debris in a timely manner, especially in autumn, dig up the soil in the garden. The gray apple aphid also lays its eggs on the bark of trunks and uterine branches. Aphid eggs are oval in shape, black in color, reach a length of 0.3 mm.

If water does not help, and there are few aphid-eating insects in the garden, then a soap or kerosene solution can be used for spraying.

The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Botrytis. The reasons for the appearance of gray mold are low temperature and excess moisture. Light spots form on the plant, fluffy rot develops.

rose rust

Anthracnose is caused by the fungus Sphaceloma gosarum. This disease is still little studied, but it poses a serious danger to roses, especially in cool and humid spring conditions. Moreover, anthracnose can damage both wild and cultivated varieties of roses.

Powdery mildew-affected roses develop specific powdery spots of white or gray. As a rule, stems, leaves and buds are the first to suffer from the disease.

​➣ Breeders breed varieties of roses that are resistant to black spot, first of all, these are varieties of the floribunda species.

How it spreads:

Source of infection

Plants that have grown in a certain area since ancient times are much better adapted to given environmental conditions and are able to resist pests and diseases. Beautiful-looking overseas hybrids look very tempting on a bag of seeds, but in reality the result may not be so impressive, because these plants are not used to the local climate. When possible, choose released varieties and hybrids, as well as varieties that are resistant to common pests and diseases. To avoid viral infections, buy certified planting material from large garden centers (this is especially important for fruit crops and potatoes). Planting plants at the correct distance from each other can provide them with minimal protection against plant diseases that are transmitted, therefore related horticultural crops that are grown at the same time and in the same way are best planted at a distance.​

Along with preventive measures aimed at creating conditions unfavorable for the life of rodents, measures are taken in the fall to exterminate rodents and protect plants from damage. The most promising is the biological method of control, which consists in artificially infecting rodents with "bacteria that cause their disease and death. In agricultural production, grain baits, consisting of grain and the drug" bacterodencid ", are most widely used.

In amateur, backyard gardens, where, as a rule, a relatively small number of plants are grown, it is advisable to examine all plants. In this case, the gardener will be able to further control pests of diseases, taking into account the actual infection of each individual fruit tree or berry bush. Such an individual approach to plant care has several advantages, the main of which is the possibility of selective treatment of plants with pesticides. To prepare a soap solution against aphids, it is recommended to dissolve 200-300 g of liquid or laundry soap in 10 liters of hot water. The solution must cool down, as hot water can harm the bushes. This method is safe both for the roses themselves and for the environment.​

powdery mildew

In spring, the risk of gray mold infection of roses is especially high, since the weather has not yet arrived and it often rains. Also, the plant is able to get gray mold after wintering in the basement. There are many varieties of gray mold fungus. It is necessary to start treating the rose in time so that the disease does not spread to other plants in the garden.

With anthracnose, small black spots appear on the leaves, which make it difficult to recognize the disease, since the symptoms are similar to black spot. As the disease progresses, the nature of the spots changes. Young spots are mostly red in color, sometimes they can be purple or brown. They form on the upper side of the leaves and can be about 50 mm in diameter. The center of the spots becomes white or gray, sometimes holes form in it.

Powdery mildew appears in both wet and dry weather. However, the best conditions for its Development are warm weather and shade. At the same time, the fungus does not tolerate high temperatures and direct sunlight, which turn out to be fatal for it.

Control measures

The source of infection can be infected seeds and soil. The causative agents of the disease persist for a long time in the soil and on plant debris. As a result, in root system and the lower part of the plant stem is penetrated by fungi.

Fusarium See also:​

It is good when certain methods help to avoid plant diseases and pests, but it happens that these measures do not help. In this case, we advise using chemical pest and disease control methods, as well as mechanical and biological methods.​

Baits with pesticides (zinc phosphide, etc.), which also destroy rodents, can be used in collective and home gardens with the participation of special rodent control organizations or specialists from plant protection stations.

Destruction of codling moth caterpillars

You can also prepare a kerosene emulsion at home. Dissolve 100 g of laundry soap in 100 ml of water, bring to a boil, heat 200 ml of kerosene and add to soapy water. The resulting emulsion must be diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed with this solution. It is recommended to process several times a day for about a week. After spraying with kerosene, it is recommended to wash the roses with clean water so that the leaves breathe.

Prevention.

The disease develops on the leaves and stems of roses. The small black dots in the center of the spots are spores of the fungus that causes anthracnose. As the disease develops, holes form at the site of the spots, nutrients are not able to move normally through parts of the rose, which leads to a weakening of the plant. A rose affected by anthracnose develops poorly in the future, the leaves are deformed, and the plant dies. The active development of the disease occurs in the spring, especially in the rainy and cool period, when there is an excess amount of moisture. If you do not start fighting powdery mildew in a timely manner, it will cause serious damage to the plant, as a result of which the rose will grow and develop worse, worsen and her appearance.

. The onset of the disease occurs at the end of spring. After the snow melts and the soil warms up, black spot spores begin to infect the plant. If the rose is not treated, then in the fall it will throw off the infected leaves, and in the spring the infection will occur again.

Remove and burn the affected parts of the plants.

There may be infected seeds and soil. The causative agents of the disease persist for a long time in the soil and on plant debris. With normal plant immunity, the disease does not manifest itself.

Anthracnose roses

Red beetle "fireman" - a pest of lilies

This method is quite simple and we have already described it in one of our articles on pests, but we want to remind you that it is also necessary to prevent the appearance more pests on plants. Is this way in the timely destruction of insects, their eggs and larvae, shaking them from the branches of plants and leaves, sometimes even cutting down entire branches that are most affected. For larger pests, such as rodents, there are special traps and traps.​

In late autumn, before the onset of persistent frosts, young trees (up to 10-12 years old) are tied with roofing paper or mulch paper to protect them from biting. First, trunks and main skeletal branches are wrapped with matting or newsprint bundles, then the roofing sheet is tightly applied and secured with twine. The lower part of the roofing is slightly deepened into the ground and sprinkled with earth. Protect plants and spruce branches(spruce branches), tightly covering them with tree trunks (needles down). For this purpose, reeds, wormwood, sunflower stalks, and raspberry shoots are also used. Plants must be freed from strapping and shelters after the snow melts.

. After harvesting, the trapping belts are removed, in which part of the caterpillars of the apple and plum codling moths have cocooned. Belts made from garden shavings, paper, or other perishable materials are burned, while burlap belts are placed in boiling water, then dried and stored for use next year. When removing the belts, they carefully examine the bark under them and destroy the cocoons remaining on the bark in cracks and depressions. The body of the aphid is so soft that when fighting these insects, you can get by with slightly toxic drugs that will be fatal to them. If highly toxic agents are used, then it is easy to destroy or scare off the natural enemies of aphids, and therefore, after a while, an outbreak of aphid reproduction can occur, because there will be no one to fight it.

In the room where seedlings are stored or roses overwinter, it is necessary to reduce humidity and provide fresh air. On the site, carry out spring pruning of bushes in time so that air circulates freely between the stems.

Prevention.

All types of powdery mildew fungus can only survive on a living plant. On roses, the fungus lives on buds and stems, in the winter it can go to some weeds, and in the spring it will spread again from them to roses. In order for powdery mildew to develop on roses, an air temperature of 20-25 ° C and a humidity of 40-90% are required. If the plant is in the shade, then this can also affect the development of the fungus. From the onset of the development of the disease to the appearance of new spores, it usually takes about 2-3 days, and if the weather is unstable, then this period can last 1-1.5 weeks. containing zinc and mancozeb. Repeated spraying is carried out after 14 days. In the fight against black spotting, drugs such as Topaz and Ridomil Gold have proven themselves well.

Downy mildew on roses

The soil is disinfected, with a strong spread of the disease, the planting site is changed.

The development of the disease is facilitated by unfavorable conditions of detention (sharp fluctuations in temperature and humidity of the air and soil, lack of soil nutrition, too dense soil, excess moisture), weakening the plant, damage by insects, etc.

per growing season certain culture pathogens or pest larvae accumulate in the soil. If you plant the same or related crop in the same patch of soil the next year, diseases and pests will happily rush to attack the new prey. That is why annual vegetable crops should be alternated annually. Rotating crops annually will also allow the grower to make optimal use of the potential of the soil. Read our special article on vegetable rotation plans by family. Chemical pest control This is the most effective way, which is used in case of poor performance of other methods of controlling garden pests and diseases. Experts advise using the following drugs, which, in their opinion and experience of use, work best:

Trampling snow around young trees in winter also protects them well from biting. Carry out this work in the days of thaws, repeating it after each big snowfall. It is desirable to trample snow around tied trees, especially when the level of snow cover is higher than the tying point. When trampling, snow must be thrown from the aisles so as not to expose the trunks.

During the autumn cleaning of particles of dead bark from boles and the main branches of apple and pear trees, they carefully examine cracks, hollows and other places where cocoons with caterpillars of the codling moth may be located, they are selected and crushed. Cleaning is carried out with blunt scrapers, so that the living tissue of the bark is not damaged. Burlap or other fabric is spread under the cleaning places for collecting and subsequent burning of garbage. During the autumn-winter period, it is necessary to establish which and to what extent pests and plant diseases are found in the garden, to carry out a number of works to combat the wintering stages of some species, take measures to preserve plantings from damage by rodents and carry out the necessary preparatory work for the implementation of measures to protect plants in the spring and summer periods of next year.​

gray mold on roses

Control measures.

To be successful in the fight against anthracnose, you need to consider the life cycle of the fungus and how it tolerates winter. It persists in winter on infected stems and leaves of roses, and with the onset of the first warm spring, new spores begin to develop from old wounds.

Prevention. Sometimes spraying is carried out, even if the plant is not infected with the disease, to prevent possible damage to the seedlings. For this purpose, they are sprayed at the end of spring, when it is already warm. Repeated spraying should be carried out if the plant began to show signs of infection.

​On the site sadsamslabo.ru you will find a lot of useful information, we will be glad for your attention to our site.​ Pathogen

Aphids on roses

The general condition of the plant is very important, because it is healthy and strong plants that are better able to resist pests and diseases. For the health of plants, first of all, good soil is needed - a structural and high-quality soil saturated with humus and microorganisms. Such soil retains moisture, heat and nutrients at the roots of plants for a long time. Plants planted on time, even in the highest quality soil, still need competent and timely care: top dressing, pruning, weeding, watering, mulching, tying, etc.

herbicides - special preparations that are used for high-quality weed control;

You can scare away rodents by smearing the trunks and uterine branches of trees with a creamy mixture, which includes: clay (3-4 kg), cow dung (3-4 kg), creolin (0.1 kg) and water. There is another way - peat chips, sawdust or ash are scattered around the trees, after soaking them with a 10% solution of creolin (1 kg per 10 l of water).

Destruction of ovipositions of the gypsy moth during the years of the appearance of this pest. Egg-laying is found by carefully examining the trunks of trees, the bases of the stems of shrubs, the lower part of buildings, fences and various objects located in the garden and in the adjacent territory.

In autumn, plant pests go to winter and are dormant for a long period. The degree of colonization of plants by wintering stages of harmful insects and other pests is established by a thorough examination (examination) of trees and shrubs. Most pests have small size, therefore, when examining plants, it is necessary to use magnifying devices (5-10x magnifying glass, etc.).​

If gray mold is found on roses, immediately remove and burn the affected parts of the bushes and spray them with sulfur-based fungicides (Benazol, Benomyl, Benorad, Fundazol). Re-spraying can be done after 2 weeks. It is also recommended to make sanitary pruning of roses. To prevent the plants from getting sick again next year, you need to remove and burn fallen leaves. Anthracnose spores are transferred to healthy parts of the plant with the help of wind and rain spray. Wet and cool weather contributes to the active development of the disease.

To avoid powdery mildew, it is quite enough to carry out prevention and control the correct development of roses. This also facilitates the fight against powdery mildew, if the disease still affects the plants.Very often, the cause of most rose diseases is the vital activity of pests. By infecting the plant, they weaken it, from which the rose becomes susceptible to various fungal diseases.

​Related Materials​

Fusarium

Parts of plants affected by pests and diseases should be burned or removed from the garden. Plantings should not be overly thickened. In greenhouses and greenhouses, it is not necessary to create excessive moisture, which provokes the development of fungal diseases.

Zoocides - chemical preparations that can quickly and permanently rid the site of rodents;

Annual observations of the appearance of pests and plant diseases in the garden, as well as autumn survey data, allow the gardener to outline measures to prevent the mass appearance of pests and diseases in the future. When planning these measures, it must be taken into account that the successful implementation of plant protection work depends on the skillful combination of various control methods. Along with the reasonable use of the chemical method, based on the use of modern highly effective pesticides, it is necessary to more fully introduce biological and mechanical methods, take better care of plants to increase their resistance to adverse factors, be more rigorous in the selection of varieties, and carry out the necessary quarantine measures that curb the spread of dangerous plant enemies, etc.

idealdomik.ru

AUTUMN-WINTER PERIOD (from the end of leaf fall to bud swelling)

Egg-laying can be scraped off (preferably with tablespoons), placing a bedding under the cleaning site to collect accidentally fallen eggs. The litter is made of dense material, cut in the middle to half. In this case, the trunk will be in the middle of the litter. Eggs are collected in buckets, and then burned or buried to a depth of 50 cm. Ovipositions cannot be crushed on the spot, since some of the eggs fall to the side. You can destroy the eggs by lubricating them with oil products.

Identification of major plant pests and diseases

Where do six-legged and other enemies of the garden find “winter apartments”? The causative agents of widespread fungal diseases - scab of apple and pear, anthracnose and septoria of currants and gooseberries, various leaf spots caused by fungal diseases - remain in fallen leaves during the winter. The leaf litter formed after leaf fall serves as a refuge for spider mites and weevils, and in the upper layers of the soil, mainly within the undercrown circles of trees and shrubs, sawfly larvae, larvae of weevil beetles, gooseberry moth caterpillars and other plant pests overwinter. ​

Aphids are one of the most common garden pests. These are small wingless insects with soft green bodies.

To avoid damage to roses by anthracnose, it is recommended to cut and destroy the damaged parts, stems and leaves. These measures will help prevent the reproduction of spores and contribute to the preservation of the plant. In autumn, it is required to cut off all damaged parts of the bushes, remove and burn the fallen leaves, on which anthracnose spores can remain. Then in the spring the likelihood of re-infection of plants will decrease.

One such disease is rose rust, which is caused by the fungus Phragmidium mucronatum. It infects the buds, stems and leaves of roses, resulting in a growth on the stems and upper parts of the leaves, and pustules similar to rust spots form on the lower parts. From these pustules, spores of the fungus are released, which infect healthy parts of the rose and neighboring bushes. As a result of the disease, the leaves begin to turn pale and fall off, the plant becomes weak and, without treatment, can die in 1-2 seasons.

We will tell you about rose diseases and how to deal with them.

It is highly resistant to adverse environmental conditions and remains viable for a long time. It is most active at a temperature of about 25oC and an air humidity of about 90%.​

Some plants have the ability to repel pests from themselves and their immediate neighbors. Why not take advantage of this wonderful gift of nature and plan your plantings in a certain order? Onions, garlic, lavender, wormwood, calendula, tagetes and many other strong-smelling plants "confuse" insect pests that seek food based on smell. The old method of combining vegetables and flowers is still considered very effective: beautiful and fragrant ornamental crops knock pests off course, but attract many pollinating insects, which pollinate vegetables along the way. Read about the right combination plants in our special article: Neighbors in the garden: companion plants and antagonist plants.​

molluscicides - preparations against slugs in the garden;

When carrying out measures to combat pests and diseases, one should first of all focus on the use of factory-made chemical plant protection products (toxic chemicals). The chemical method is still the leading method of combating the main pests and diseases of fruit and berry plants. It is only important to apply this method in a timely and qualified manner.

Oil products - fuel oil, used oil, kerosene with the addition of a small amount of used oil are impregnated with oviposition on old forest trees with hardened bark, on unpainted fences, stones, stumps, etc. To do this, it is better to use small dense hair brushes and coat so that the oil products completely saturate the egg-laying and at the same time do not form a large spot on the bark. On fruit trees, on young trees of other species and on shrubs, coating is not used, since oil products can cause bark burns.

Some pests hibernate on the branches of trees and shrubs. In nests of eaten dried leaves, attached by cobwebs to young twigs of trees and ornamental shrubs (hawthorn, etc.), young caterpillars of hawthorn and goldtails arrange reliable shelters for themselves. Up to 70 caterpillars hibernate in the hawthorn nest, covering themselves with cobwebs; there are up to 300 caterpillars in the golden tail nest.

Adults develop wings. Aphids live in colonies, so a large invasion of this insect is immediately noticeable on roses. Aphids can quickly move to neighboring plants, affecting the entire garden. Hot spring days are especially dangerous around mid-April. Aphid larvae, wintering in the bark of plants and in fallen leaves, move to young shoots. After 10-14 days, the number of aphids increases significantly. At the same time, roses are also affected by pests such as spider mites and pink cicadas.

Control of overwintering stages of pests and diseases

Control measures The distance between the rose bushes is also of great importance. If they have access to fresh air, then this prevents the appearance of powdery mildew.

In the first stage of the disease, which occurs in mid-spring after the buds begin to open, outgrowths form. During this period, the development of the disease is most active, since the humidity of the air is increased. Then it affects the leaves, on which yellow spots form, gradually covering the entire leaf plate. The shoots of roses become thick, cracks appear on them.

The causative agent of black spot is the fungus Marssonina rosae, which covers the leaves and stems of roses with brown and black spots, which can be one or more, and they often combine.

Affected plants exhibit poor flowering, yellowing and leaf fall, darkened, underdeveloped roots, and general wilting. Dark vessels are visible on the cut of the stem and leaves.

How to oil gypsy moth eggs

As you know, in wise nature everything is conceived in such a way that each creature is a natural food for another creature, constituting one of the links in a well-organized food chain. The gardener can only use this smart system in his garden, providing all the conditions for a happy life for those who feed on garden pests. This is, first of all, a ban on the use of synthetic pesticides and herbicides that poison or deprive insects and vertebrates of food useful to the gardener, destroying natural food chains. Pest-eating gardening assistants include birds, frogs, hedgehogs, lizards, and a range of beneficial insects. Read in detail about these small and sometimes inconspicuous creatures in our article. Beneficial insects and vertebrates in the garden, as well as how to attract birds to the garden. ​

Acaricides - a remedy for ticks; When determining the need for pesticides and other drugs necessary to control pests and diseases, the age and number of plants to be treated, the frequency of spraying and the consumption rate of working solutions are taken into account. In the middle zone of horticulture to control pests and plant diseases in backyard garden(at the age of 8-10 years; area 600-800 m2) the following amount of basic pesticides is approximately required.​

Whitewashing boles and main branches with lime After leaf fall, dried or blackened glossy fruits are clearly visible in the crowns of fruit trees. In such fruits (they are called mummified), pathogens of fungal diseases, fruit rot and black cancer remain during the winter. Caterpillars of the apple moth winter on the bark of tree branches - one of the most common and dangerous pests of apple leaves. Butterflies of this moth, laying eggs, arrange them as tiles are laid on the roofs, and cover them with rapidly hardening secretions. Each clutch contains up to 80 eggs, and then small moth caterpillars. The masonry looks like small dense shields, painted to match the color of the bark.

Removal and burning of wintering nests of hawthorn, goldentail, as well as dry (mummified) fruits

A small number of aphids on roses will not cause much trouble, but this pest reproduces very quickly, so control over its numbers is necessary, otherwise the roses can die. It is required to deal with aphids after the appearance of the first individuals.

. If timely dressing, spring work and autumn cleaning did not help, you need to deal with anthracnose in the same way as with black spotting. ❧ The most beautiful woman from Indian legends, the goddess of beauty Lakshmi was born from a blossoming rose bud.

Toward the end of summer, the growths become dark and remain on the plant all winter. Rust spores also remain on the fallen leaves, which again infect the bushes in the spring.

Fight against mouse-like rodents

Leaves affected by black spot begin to turn yellow and fall off, so if you leave the plant without treatment, then after 2-3 seasons it can die.

What caused:

To attract many beneficial birds, insects, and small vertebrates to your garden, create a small pond in your garden. In addition to a comfortable environment for garden fauna, a pond is a very relevant and expressive element of landscape design.​

Fungicides are chemicals used to control plant infections.

Name of pesticides

Protects living tissues of the bark from overheating by the sun in the early spring. It is carried out in late autumn, after cleaning the dead bark. For whitewashing, freshly slaked lime (2-3 kg per 10 liters of water) is used with the addition of 1-2 kg of clay. For stickiness, it is also good to add skimmed milk (2 liters per 10 liters of mixture) or heated glue (50-100 g per 10 liters of mixture). You can prepare a mixture for whitewashing from lime (2-3 kg) and copper sulfate (0.5 kg) - for 10 liters of water.

Preparation for work in the spring-summer period

Various types of aphids, apple sucker, apple red mite, ringed silkworm and some other pests overwinter in the stage of eggs laid on the bark of branches. The eggs are very small, but it is quite easy to distinguish them. The shape of the eggs of aphids and suckers is oval, their size does not exceed 0.5 mm. But in aphids, the eggs are shiny black and they are located on the bark of young shoots, more often on root shoots and tops, while in the sucker, the eggs are a little smaller, they are orange, they are mainly in the folds and wrinkles of the bark at the base of the fruit buds and fruit twigs.

Determining the need for pesticides

Each female is able to lay several hundred eggs, from which new pests emerge. First of all, the aphid infects the shoots and buds, sucking the juice out of them, as a result of which the leaves are deformed and die, the buds do not open. The aphid itself rarely leads to the death of the plant, but its numerous colonies discolor the leaves, make the bushes unsightly, by autumn the roses are very weak, which makes them poorly tolerate wintering. Also, as a result of the weakening of the plant, it is more vulnerable to the effects of disease-causing fungi.

The causative agent is the fungus Pseudoperonospora sparsa. This disease is dangerous for almost all plants, and most gardeners have to deal with it. She also infects roses. The disease is similar to chemical burns, so it is not always recognizable. In the spring, when there is especially a lot of moisture, the first symptoms of the disease appear, which are expressed in small reddish-brown spots covering the leaves and shoots.

It develops rapidly on plants growing on soils rich in nitrogen, so it is recommended to apply mineral fertilizers in strictly specified quantities. And it is better to give preference to organic.

How nice it is to come to your site, where our garden plants bloom with all the colors of the rainbow in summer! How different they are! But, like any living matter, they are subject to various diseases.

So let's take a walk, see what diseases flowers can have and try to prevent them. And if it was not possible to prevent the disease, then we will try to cure it.

The most common diseases are: true and downy mildew, root and gray rot, fusarium, sooty fungus, rust, brown rot of the root neck.

Let's consider them all in order.

True powdery mildew. The disease appears at high humidity, with a high content of nitrogen fertilizers in the soil. The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Trichocladia. The disease manifests itself as white plaque on the upper or lower side of leaves, and also appears on stems and flowers. The spread of plaque is very fast; leaves and stems are destroyed. At the same time, the leaves wither, curl, lose their green coloring and they die. Powdery mildew primarily affects plants with soft leaves, such as chrysanthemums, roses and others. With a strong infection with the disease, the entire plant is treated with "Fundazol", "Rubiton", or it can be pollinated with ordinary sulfur.

downy mildew. The disease manifests itself with a close arrangement of plants, high humidity. It manifests itself as a whitish coating only on the underside of the leaves, which differs from this powdery mildew. From above, above the affected area, transparent colorless oily spots form. Over time, they increase in size, turn yellow, then turn brown. As a result, the plants shed their leaves. Control methods are pruning and destruction of damaged leaves and treating the plant with Bordeaux liquid.

Gray rot. The disease develops with sudden changes in temperature and high humidity of the soil and air, lack of light. The causative agent of the disease is the fungus botrytis, which affects the leaves, buds, flowers and root neck of plants. This disease can affect plants with soft leaves, for example, young chrysanthemums, azaleas, pelargoniums, primroses. The disease manifests itself in the form of gray dust and spreads quite quickly. To prevent an outbreak of the disease, it is necessary to destroy already diseased specimens, thin out the plants for better ventilation and treat them with Bordeaux mixture.

root rot. ToThe root system with an excess of moisture in the soil can be affected by various fungal diseases, such as fusarium, late blight, verticillosis, and the like. Roots turn brown and die. Further, the disease manifests itself on the leaves (the leaf also becomes brown and dies off). In the future, the whole plant dies. The fight against the disease is as follows: the affected plants and soil substrate are destroyed. If the flowers grew in pots, then the containers are disinfected with a 40% formalin solution.

Fusarium. The disease affects the roots and root neck of plants with excessive soil and air moisture. At the same time, the leaves and stems turn yellow, the plant withers and may die in the future. To prevent the disease, it is necessary to regularly loosen the soil, monitor its moisture content, and also regulate the number of planted plants in order to avoid crowding and provide them with normal ventilation.

sooty fungus. It manifests itself in the form of a black coating on the surface of leaves and on the tops of shoots on plants affected by scale insects, aphids, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Settling on their sweetish secretions, the fungus makes it difficult for air to reach the plant, which disrupts its normal development. It is easy to deal with it - just wipe the plaque with a cloth moistened with a solution of laundry soap. But you can completely get rid of it only after the destruction of pests. For the purpose of prevention, loosening of the soil, removal of damaged plants, destruction of pests, thinning of plantings is carried out.

Rust. The disease appears as rusty or orange spots on the underside of the leaves. This disease can affect chrysanthemums, daffodils, ferns, roses, carnations and other plants. Rust is a fungal disease. As a fight against it, you need to remove the affected parts of the plant and spray the flowers with 1% Bordeaux liquid or pollinate with sulfur.

Blackleg. Occurs at high humidity of the soil and air. It affects the root neck of plant seedlings, which turns black, thins out and the plant dies. The mushroom itself overwinters in the soil. To avoid the disease will help tillage before sowing a solution of potassium permanganate, or a 1% solution of formalin.

As we can see, all major plant diseases occur due to high humidity, tightness, pests, and contaminated soil.

However, not everything is so scary. To combat diseases, there are all kinds of drugs that affect different groups pathogens.

So, “Strobi” will cope with all kinds of spotting, “Fundazol” with rots, “Fitosporin”, “Trichodermin” are suitable for prevention.

It is important to eliminate the cause of the disease, monitor soil moisture and regulate watering, and then your favorite flowers will delight you with their abundant and long flowering.

Flower plants are often affected by diseases, which, depending on the causes that cause them, can be divided into infectious and non-infectious.

infectious diseases plants are caused by the smallest organisms: fungi, bacteria, viruses. They are able, in the presence of favorable conditions, to quickly move from one plant to another and form large foci of infection.

Noncommunicable diseases most often occur due to improper care of flowers.
Diseases on flowers can manifest themselves in the form of wilting on plants, dying off of sections or individual organs, rot, spots, various plaques, deformations, growths, etc.

List of infectious diseases

• vascular wilt
• Gray rot
• powdery mildew
• Rust
• spotting
• Infectious burn
• bacterial cancer
• Root and root rot
• Planting material diseases
• Viral diseases.

I have listed almost all infectious diseases that affect flowers in our dachas. Armed with knowledge, you can prevent plant diseases in your garden plots and effectively deal with their manifestations.

Let us dwell in detail on the description of infectious diseases of flowering plants.

Black leg of flower plants

Seedlings of flowering plants are susceptible to this disease. The disease manifests itself in the blackening and decay of the roots of the neck of young plants. Later, the stem in the place of blackening becomes thinner, and the plant fades.

Most often, this disease manifests itself in flowers that are grown in greenhouses. And why? Because it is in greenhouses that there is high humidity, poor ventilation, high temperature, heavy soil.

Control measures.
- Agrotechnics for growing seedlings should be strictly observed.
- Remove and destroy diseased plants. Pour the remaining seedlings with 0.2% potassium permanganate or daily onion infusion (300 g of onion per 10 liters of water).

- Folk elimination method "".

Vascular wilts of plants

The disease manifests itself in the defeat of the vascular system. Pathogens penetrate the plant from the soil, colonize the conductive vessels and cause changes in the form of yellowing and drying of the lower leaves and withering of the entire plant. Then the lower part of the stem near the root collar darkens and a fungus bloom appears on the affected area.

Fusarium wilt affects many plants, especially gladioli, asters, carnations. Plants get sick at any age, but more often in the stage of budding and flowering. Hot weather favors the spread and development of the disease.

vascular wilt affects about 150 plant species. Among flowers, wilting is common on asters, carnations, chrysanthemums, dahlias, peonies, sweet peas, snapdragons, etc.

Control measures.
- It is necessary to observe the agrotechnics of growing plants.
- Strictly alternate cultures, returning to their original place no earlier than after 4 years.
– Apply a balanced plant nutrition, avoiding nitrogen overfeeding.
- Regularly destroy weeds, avoid dense plantings.
– In autumn, collect and burn plant residues - places of possible infection.
- Carefully prepare the soil for planting plants. Use healthy planting material.

Gray rot flowers

It affects a lot of flower plants, including gladioli, tulips, peonies, roses, dahlias. The affected areas turn brown, turn brown, soften. In wet weather, a gray mold appears on them. The pathogen develops on all organs - leaves, buds, stems, bulbs, corms.

Round or oval reddish-brown spots appear on leaves, stems and flowers, which later become light with a darker rim. The spots increase, merge and the leaves die off. From the leaves, the disease passes to the stems, buds, flowers. Severely infected plants will not bloom.

The development of the disease contributes to high humidity. To a large extent, they suffer from gray rot. If, when examining the bulbs, you find that the core fails when pressed, then this is heart-shaped rot. Naturally, such planting material must be discarded.

Tulips infect fungus

All organs of the plant are affected. The disease develops during the growing season and during storage. Small light or brown spots appear on the leaves, first rounded, then indefinite, with a dark watery edge of the spot.

In wet cold weather, the spots grow and cover the entire leaf. The same spots are formed on the stems, peduncles and petals. When the base of the stem is damaged, the plant breaks off and dies.

Affected bulbs can be identified by slightly depressed yellow spots with a prominent dark brown edge. The tissues of the affected bulb darken, soften, the bulb shrinks, and small black sclerotia of the fungus appear on its surface. The source of infection are the bulbs and sclerotia of the fungus.

Irises are attacked by a fungus

The rhizomes are mainly affected, on which rot and sclerotia appear in the form of folded heaps. In the spring, leaves of infected plants grow poorly, which later dry out. In wet weather, they are covered with a gray fluffy coating at ground level.

Control measures.
– Avoid lower areas with heavy soils.
- Observe proper watering, carry out regular loosening.
- Resistance to the disease is increased by feeding with phosphorus and potassium, as well as microelements.
- Dry planting material before storing
– Discard and burn diseased bulbs and corms during storage.
- When replanting irises and peonies, cut off the affected rhizomes, followed by pickling in a 1% solution of copper sulphate.

Powdery mildew

A white powdery coating appears on the leaves, shoots, buds of plants. Sometimes black dots form here - these are fruiting bodies.
Many flowering plants are susceptible to the disease: roses, peonies, phloxes, aquilegia, perennial asters, lupins, sweet peas, etc.

Powdery mildew is caused by a fungus. Leaves, stems, shoots, buds are covered with white bloom. Infected leaves dry out and fall off, plants are stunted and may die. Humidity in the development of the disease does not play a big role.

At the beginning of June, phloxes have white spots on the leaves, which quickly spread throughout the plate, affecting the upper leaves and stems. By the end of July, and sometimes even earlier, the plant becomes untidy and dies prematurely.

AT last years the disease has become widespread and is the most harmful of phlox diseases.

Control measures.
- During the growing season, fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
- I treat plants with copper-soapy liquid (20 g of copper sulfate are dissolved in 0.5 liters of hot water, then 200 g of green soap are dissolved in 9.5 liters of water. In soap solution with stirring, add a solution of copper sulphate, a total of 10 liters is obtained. liquids.)
Treatment with such a liquid should be carried out at least 2-3 times with an interval of 14 days.
– Three times a day treatment with slurry is quite effective. Well-rotted cow dung should be poured with water 1:3, infused for 3-5 days, diluted three times and sprayed.

Rust

It affects many flower plants: mallows, chrysanthemums, irises, peonies, roses, primroses, snapdragons and other flowers.
On leaves, stems and shoots appear orange in spring, brown in summer, brown-black raised pads in autumn - the so-called pustules of the fungus. The development of rust fungi is facilitated by waterlogging, excess nitrogen and a lack of potassium and phosphorus. The fungus overwinters on fallen leaves and in the plants themselves.

Control measures.
- Destroy weeds - possible hosts of the fungus.
– During the growing season, treat plants with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
- late autumn or in early spring treat perennials with 1% nitrofen.

spotting

The disease is expressed in the appearance of spots on the leaves and stems of flower plants. various shapes, colors and sizes. As the disease progresses, they grow, merge and cause the death of not only the leaves, but even the entire plant.

Rose diseases called black spot and infectious burn are very dangerous. Black spot is caused by a fungus. Usually, by the end of summer, black spots of various sizes appear, which cause their premature fall. With a strong development of the disease, the leaves fall off in August, the dormant buds start to grow, the bushes leave weakened before winter.

Infectious burn

This disease manifests itself immediately after removing the winter shelter. The stems are covered with brown spots with a red-brown border. In the future, these spots merge and ring the stem. The part of it above the lesion remains green for some time. Leaves appear on it, but then dry up.

Plants weakened after wintering are damaged by an infectious burn. To a strong extent, the disease develops in a rose that has been under cover for a long time at a positive temperature.

Red-purple spots on phlox leaves

Painful spots appear first on the lower, then on the upper leaves of phlox. Soon they become white in the middle. Infected leaves dry up and die. The fungus causes spotting on the annual aster. Angular yellow-brown spots form between the veins of the leaves. Leaves dry up.

Control measures.
- To avoid an infectious burn, shelters should be partially removed from roses in early spring.
- Carry out early spring or late autumn treatment of plantations with a 2% solution of nitrofen or 0.6-0.8% copper oxychloride.

bacterial cancer

With this disease, growths, such as tumors, form on the roots, root collar, sometimes on the lower part of the stem. At first, these growths are white, then darken and decompose. The disease is caused by bacteria. Dahlias and roses get sick with cancer. In gladioli, carnations, nasturtiums, petunias, outgrowths form on the root collar, from which many shortened weak shoots grow. This form is called growth.
Bacteria can survive in the soil for many years.

Control measures.
– Avoid excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers.
– Strictly check planting material.
- Treat wells from under diseased plants with bleach.

Root and root rot

Root rot affects many flower plants. Diseased roots rot and die, the ground part turns yellow and fades. Rots are caused by fungi and bacteria. Very harmful root rot iris. The protruding roots freeze slightly, form a wet rot in the form of a mushy mass, which, when dried, turns into a light powder with an unpleasant odor.

Control measures.
– Do not use heavy waterlogged soils for irises
– Sick plants should be removed and destroyed.
- Irises for the winter must be covered in order to prevent freezing of the roots.
- When diseased rhizomes are found, they are freed from the ground, cleaned of rot and sprinkled with crushed coal mixed with sulfur 1: 1.

Non-infectious plant diseases

Non-infectious plant diseases are caused by unfavorable environmental conditions or errors in agricultural technology.
By external signs, they can sometimes resemble infectious diseases: spotting, vascular wilt, root diseases, etc.
Abnormal development of plants contributes to the excess or lack of nutrients.
Yes, at phosphorus starvation leaves become bluish-green, sometimes red-violet, plant growth is weakened, flowers and ovaries fall off.

Excess potassium retards plant growth and flower development. From a lack of potassium, the leaves become dome-shaped, at the edges they start off light yellow, then brown and die off. The same is observed with an excess of boron.

Magnesium starvation manifests itself in the lightening of the leaves, and the normal color remains only along the veins. Leaves become brittle and fall off prematurely.

nitrogen deficiency slows down the growth of plants, they acquire a chlorotic color. The lower leaves are drooping. Fruits are almost not formed. Drying of lilacs with cracking and dying of the bark at the root neck occurs with excessive nitrogen application.

At iron deficiency the leaves turn yellow, and the veins remain green. At lack of manganese on the contrary, the veins of the leaves, as well as the flowers, brighten.

Treatment of plants with pesticides may cause necrotic spotting of leaves, buds and flowers (burns).

on heavy soils and deep landing plants experience oxygen starvation, the so-called "suffocation" of the roots of gladioli, tulips and other bulbs is observed.

Garden flowers, like people, are sensitive to weather factors. And when, for example, a warm sunny day is suddenly replaced by a downpour with hail, for any plant it is a disaster. It is difficult to survive our green pets and prolonged drought, nutrient deficiencies, pest or disease infestations. What to do in such cases?

This article is intended to recognize the trouble and help to cope with it.

100 quick tips in stressful situations related to diseases and pests of garden flowers

Here are collected the most best advice experienced florists and effective recommendations specialists, together with whom your flower gardens will easily cope with any stress and will delight you with colorful flowering for a long time to come.

Svetlana LAPIKOVA

STIMULANTS, ENERGY AND OTHER DRUGS FOR GARDEN FLOWERS

hit by hail

A hurricane with hail that flew in one of the hot June days "riddled" the hosts, buzulniks, brunners, badans, delphiniums and other plants. Can flowers be restored?

Tatyana Shevtsova, Voronezh

A few years ago I had a similar situation in my garden. The hail was badly damaged ornamental plants with large leaves and inflorescences.

Broken stems, perforated leaves and ovaries had to be removed. After a forced cardinal pruning, I fed the plants with Fertika Lux complex fertilizer (1 tbsp / 10 l of water) - this helped the bushes grow new leaves and shoots in the first half of summer, some (delphiniums, daylilies) later bloomed again. The external gloss of the damaged collection helped to restore the preparation HB-101 - a plant growth stimulator (from natural substances). With a solution of the HB-101 vitalizer (1-2 drops / l of water), I watered the bushes “with my head”, trying not to fall on the preserved flowers, three to four times at weekly intervals.

The plants noticeably “cheered up”, the leaves became juicy, with a characteristic luster and soon covered all the ugly areas with themselves.

Olga MANUDINA, plant collector, Lukhovitsy, Moscow Region.

"Magic" stimulants

On my site, the soil is sandy, so when planting plants for each, I prepare an individual place with black soil and humus. He conducted an experiment with fig seedlings of the Black Prince variety.

I planted a slightly larger bush on a well-prepared site, protected from the north and west, a smaller specimen - just in a free place, open to all winds, but processed it all summer various stimulants own manufacture. As a result, the first plant grew three shoots of a meter height until autumn, and the second on unprepared soil became a huge bush more than 2 m high with branches of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd order.

EM bokashi

This is the name of a stimulant with effective microorganisms grown on wheat bran. To prepare, I mix 0.5 liters of kefir with 1 liter of wheat bran, put it in a double bag (one in one), squeeze out the air, tie it up and leave it in a dark place at + 23-25 ​​degrees. Three days later I pour it out on a baking sheet and send it to the closet - it is dark, warm and dry there. I grind the dried mass in a coffee grinder. Then I add it to the soil for planting flower seedling and tub plants - approximately 80% of the volume of a glass per bucket.

Fish emulsion

I fill any small fish (preferably (1 frozen cube / liter of water). Freshly caught) with water so that I repeat it for two weeks (you can only cover it and cook for 1 hour. 10 minutes before the end, I knead it into gruel. Then, a little after cooling, grind in a blender, pour into a wide saucepan and boil until thick sour cream.

For long-term use, the emulsion is frozen in ice molds. In the spring I water many garden plants a couple more times a season). As a result, my pets bloom beautifully, give fruit bountiful harvest, thermophilic or with dubious wintering survive frosts without problems.

I also tried the emulsion on experimental figs - the watered one came out of the winter without damage, the second one froze.

Vadim KONDRATYUK, experienced florist

Boron against stress

Many open ground plants respond very well (bloom and bear fruit better, more easily withstand temperature extremes and other stresses) to foliar top dressing with boric acid. I take it 2-5 g per bucket of water (depending on the size and age of the plants), stir and spray the pets 2-3 times per season.

I also often soak for 12 hours in a weakly concentrated solution (0.2 g / l of water) and seeds of garden flowers before sowing. In order for boric acid to dissolve better in water, I first dilute the required amount separately in a cup of warm water, and then pour it into a large container.

Lydia KOSTINA, r.p. Yelan-Kolenovskiy, Voronezh region

compost tea

I heard that compost tea is used to increase the stress resistance of plants and enrich the soil with nutrients. Tell about it.

Larisa Olekhina, Bryansk

I make a special aerated compost tea. In non-chlorinated water (10 l) I add malt extract or jam (0.5 l each), a few crusts of bread. I mix in 1-2 liters of compost (or vermicompost), turn on the aquarium compressor and let the air through during the day. Microorganisms multiply well in an aquatic environment saturated with oxygen, while aeration cannot be turned off, otherwise after 30 minutes. useful microflora will begin to die, and such a solution is no longer subject to correction.

At an ambient temperature of about +20 degrees, the preparation of compost tea lasts 24 hours, at +30 degrees. - 15-18 hours. The tea is ready when a high head of foam has formed on it.

If there is no aeration system, tea can be prepared in this way: pour compost into a bucket with a layer of about 7-10 cm, put it under a canopy and pour water (not to the very brim), mix well every day for a week. Then strain, dilute 1.5 and water the soil in poor areas.

I breed concentrated compost tea (1: 5-10 - to moisten the soil and 1: 20-50 - to spray the foliage) and use it for 4 hours. 3-4 treatments per season are enough. As a result, worms and other “soil engineers” begin to multiply on a flowerbed moistened with such a nutritious “drink”, the soil becomes loose, and the plants that have taken a “shower” grow quickly and bloom profusely.

Irina PODOSINKINA, plant collector, Moscow

Save weak plants

I bought discounted seedlings on sale. Appearance many of them leave much to be desired, but I really want to save everything. Tell me how to reanimate weak plants?

Carefully inspect the bushes and cut off damaged, dry and yellowed twigs and leaves. Pay attention to the root system of each seedling, if it “squishes” in the pot, the soil is flooded, remove such a plant from the container, put the root ball on several layers of napkins (newspapers), excess moisture will quickly be absorbed into them (replace with dry ones as necessary, until stop getting wet).

Inspect the roots, cut off the rotten and dead ones, powder with crushed charcoal. If the root ball is too dry, put the plant together with the pot in a bowl of water until completely saturated with moisture. I usually add a life-giving cocktail to the water: 2 drops of anti-stress drugs (“Zircon” and “Epin”) and four drops of “Cytovit” (a nutrient composition with microelements) per 1 liter of water. By the way, in this cocktail, you can soak the plants “with your head”, as well as water and spray them over the leaves (once a week).

I first keep reanimated plants in a cool and bright place on the veranda. After they come to life and start growing noticeably, they can be planted in the garden.

healthy milk

If it does not take root well, a new rose bush does not grow for a long time, such top dressing will help it: I dilute 100 ml of milk in 1 liter of water and water it under the root (I prepare a solution for spraying, halving the concentration - 50 ml / l). You can feed every 10-14 days (do3-5 times), alternating with watering with plain water.

Banana energy drink for flowers

If perennials bloom weakly, I cook them banana top dressing. I dry the banana peel and grind it to a powder state. It contains a lot of potassium, and just this element is responsible for flowering, stimulating it. I scatter the powder under the bushes (2-3 tsp under the plant) and spill the soil with water. It is good to add such a natural “energy drink” when transplanting a flowering plant.

Elena PARENT, experienced florist, Moscow

Solution "Cheerfulness"

It tones garden plants affected by various weather troubles, helps seedlings adapt to a new place, accelerates the rooting of cuttings, activating the activity of beneficial microorganisms in the soil. I cook "Cheerfulness" like this: for 3 liters slightly warm water I take 30-40 g of live yeast (silt and 3 g of dry) and 2.5-Raisa GORYACHENKO, Moscow

3 tbsp sugar, stir and let it brew for about 2 hours. I breed with clean water (1: 5) and water under the root (from 0.5 l under the plant, depending on its size). For a season, 2-3 such top dressings are enough: in spring - to stimulate vegetation and the formation of ovaries, in early and mid-summer - to form peduncles and fruits.

Izmail Odessa region

The stems are cracking

After a downpour, panicled phloxes were disheveled, cracks appeared on the stems. this is dangerous?

Phlox bushes can fall apart, and the stems can crack due to temperature changes and uneven moisture, for example, when cold rains pour after a strong heat. In such cases, I cut off the most ugly branches with a sharp knife, spray the plants with Potassium Humate (1 ml / l of water) 3-4 times every two weeks. This drug increases the resistance of garden plants to diseases and vagaries of the weather, improves their flowering and winter hardiness. It is also good to powder the soil with ash and mulch the “legs” with mowed grass. By the way, most often old bushes fall apart, therefore, if there are phloxes older than 4-5 years in the collection, divide them in August or next spring and transplant them to new places protected from strong winds.

"Stimulus" from stress

Due to my long absence at the dacha, petunias and violets, planted in flowerpots and placed along the paths, almost died from heavy rains. A neighbor advised to spray them with "Stimulus" (according to instructions). This is a unique remedy for restoring plants from stress. Helps to overcome the consequences return frosts, strong winds and waterlogging, and also improves survival after an emergency transplant or illness. I moved the flowerpots with flowers under a canopy, sprayed the bushes with "Stimulus" in the early fine morning, a week later - again. All the pets bloomed chic, until the fall.

Resuscitation of daylilies

A few daylilies are slightly rotten from the spring waters. Can they be saved?

Zinaida Timoshenko, Krasnogorsk

If the daylily fan has rotted, carefully dig out and free the root collar from last year's mulch. If it is completely rotted, it will not be possible to save the plant. To plant a new specimen in this place, the soil in landing pit must be completely replaced.

If the neck is preserved, but there are small traces of rot, clean it to a healthy tissue with a teaspoon. Treat with a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution and dry for several days. Then pour a handful of crushed coal on the damaged area and plant the plant. Coal inhibits the development of bacteria. On the affected necks, new kidneys will wake up. Olga GORSKAYA, Chairman of the section of the club "Flowers of Moscow"

Rescued scales

If the bottom of the lily bulb has rotted from soaking, it can be disassembled into scales. I cut them to a healthy tissue (the main thing is that each scale should have at least a piece of the bottom) and disinfect it in a solution of potassium permanganate. Then I bury it a little in light, loose earth, cover it with a film on top - I make a small ventilated greenhouse. I keep the soil moist. Soon the scales will have roots, new onion-babies will begin to form. This will become clear from the green leaves that appear on the surface, which means that the plant was saved!

Elena PARENT, Moscow

Rescues cinnamon

The rhizome of an iris seedling of a very valuable variety has rotted. What can be done?

Galina Deryabina

Clean the rhizome from rot to healthy tissue and sprinkle with cinnamon powder. This is a method proven in practice by fellow flower growers, effective in emergency situations when growing potted, balcony and garden plants. I personally had to dust the frozen and rotten roots of purchased discounted seedlings with cinnamon more than once and sprinkle mold on the surface of unsteamed soils. Helps!

Elena GROSHAVEN, hereditary florist, Moscow

If the sun burns

In hot and sunny weather, leaves on many plants dry up and curl, sometimes even burn.

Ludmila Gushcha

The easiest way to protect shade-loving sissies from sunburn- transplant them to a suitable corner. Hostas, brunners, lungworts, ferns, buzulniks, basils and rogers usually take a place in the shade of a fence or buildings, in partial shade tall shrubs or trees, on the bank of the pond. If free plot

no, I give shade-loving plants in a sunny flower garden more attention. In hot weather, I water them more often, I additionally spill the bushes on top in the morning so that the drops have time to dry by noon, I mulch the soil under them to retain moisture with a thick layer of fine tree bark, cut lawn grass or compost.

Transfer

A flower bed with geyhers, several spirea bushes and a peony were damaged by building materials carelessly unloaded onto the site. Tell me how to transplant them to a new place with the least losses ...

Marina Suvorova, St. Petersburg

In order to transplant painlessly and as little as possible traumatizing in the summer mature plant, step back from its center 20-30 cm and dig around on the spade bayonet. Carefully cut the roots going deep, lift and put a piece of film on the bottom - this is the easiest way to transport the plant to a new place. It is important to keep the root ball intact: the larger it is, the easier the bush will survive the “move”. After an emergency transplant, monitor the leaf turgor, water regularly, sunny days shade (for example, with a plywood shield).

FIGHTING DISEASES IN GARDEN FLOWERS

In this section, we will recall the popular diseases of garden flowers caused by fungi, bacteria, viruses and ... lack of nutrition in the soil. We will show you how to deal with ailments with the help of the most effective chemicals (fungicides) and folk remedies.

In this section, we will recall the popular diseases of garden flowers caused by fungi, bacteria, viruses and ... lack of nutrition in the soil. We will show you how to deal with ailments with the help of the most effective chemicals (fungicides) and folk remedies.

Fighting heterosporiosis

What happens to irises? First, dark brown spots appear on the leaves, gradually they grow and merge together. Leaves turn brown and dry.

Nino Kupreiko, Simferopol

To protect irises from heterosporiosis (or leaf spot), regular preventive measures are important. Treat plantings with 1% copper sulfate (or other copper-containing preparations) immediately after flowering, in September, and in early spring when shoots grow. Do not forget that they are effective at air temperatures not lower than +20 degrees. If the spots on the leaves are very large, remove the diseased areas, spray the plants with solutions of combined systemic fungicides: "Falcon" or "Alto-super" (according to the instructions).

Ludmila ULEISKAYA, Ph.D. biol. Sciences, Yalta.

Insidious Rust

In the spring I bought and planted a rose with a closed root system. It bloomed very well, but then yellow-red tubercles and spots appeared on the leaves. What happened?

Olga Artyushina

Most likely, the rose is affected by rust. This disease often enters the garden with new planting material or can be transmitted from bushes growing nearby. wild rosehip. High humidity at the beginning of the season also contributes to its rapid spread.

For prophylactic purposes, purchased seedlings should be soaked together with a clod of earth in a fungicide solution (for example, 1% Bordeaux mixture). In case of damage during the growing season, all leaves are removed from the bush, even healthy-looking ones, and suspicious and diseased shoots are also cut out. Then the plant is sprayed with a 3% Bordeaux mixture, copper sulphate, Hom, Oxyhom, Abiga-peak preparations can be used (according to the instructions).

During each new season, I usually treat roses twice, in May and at the end of July, with the latest three-component preparation for the prevention and treatment of rust - Falcon (according to the instructions).

Olga MANUDINA, Lukhovitsy, Moscow Region

In the fight against rust on mallow, roses and other plants, an infusion of wormwood helps me. I grind the plucked grass, pour it cold water and insist two or three days in the sun. I use it without dilution, I spray the plants at the end of spring and the first half of summer.

Elena PARENT, Moscow

From the gray rot of peonies

What about tree peonies? In some places, the leaves dry on the plants and the shoots wither, on some specimens the buds turned black and did not bloom ...

Anna Molchanova, Bryansk

I think it's gray rot (botrytis). In addition to the signs described, it can be recognized by brown spots around the stem in the zone of the root collar. The affected peony withers and dies over time. The disease spreads especially quickly in damp weather. Remove severely damaged branches. Treat the bushes with 1-2% Bordeaux mixture (you can use its substitute - 0.6-0.7% copper oxychloride solution) or 0.2-0.3% Fundazol solution: during budding, after flowering and the next spring, at the beginning of shoot growth.

Ludmila Uleiskaya, Yalta. ?

From powdery mildew

Greyish-white spots appeared on the delphinium and phlox. In some places, the leaves curl and dry out. How to be?

Petr Dolgin, Rostov

Prevention will help protect flower beds from powdery mildew.

1. Buy resistant varieties.
2. Avoid overcrowded plantings and overdose of nitrogen fertilizers.
3. In autumn, remove and burn plant debris, regardless of the degree of damage. Biological measures: treat the affected bushes with microbiological preparations such as Alirin-B, Gamair (a tank mixture is possible), Fitosporin-M (according to instructions). Chemical methods: use (including for prophylactic purposes) of copper-containing fungicides "Skor", "Topaz", "Abiga-Peak", "Ridomil Gold" (according to instructions).

Kristina KLEMESHOVA, Ph.D. agricultural sciences, Sochi

Folk methods

Phloxes, barberries, honeysuckle and other plants on which a whitish coating (powdery mildew) appears, I save with the help of folk remedies.

• 2 l. I breed kefir in a bucket of water and water the bushes from above from a watering can. It is believed that the bacteria contained in fermented milk products suppress competitors - the causative agents of fungal diseases of flowers.
• Well-rotted cow dung is poured with cold water (1: 3), left to infuse for three days. After that, I reduce the concentration of the solution by 2 times, diluting with water, filter and spray suspicious plants.

Tobacco-onion mix

To avoid diseases such as spotting and powdery mildew, throughout the season I use an infusion of tobacco (can be wormwood), onion peel and garlic. Finely grind raw materials, pour warm water for 2-3 days, filter. I dilute with water (1: 3) and spray the bushes at least three to four times with an interval of 2 weeks.

Healing herbal infusions

I use them to prevent fungal diseases.

Horsetail infusion. 1 kg of fresh grass or 150 g of dry pour 10 liters of cold water. I endure the day. Then bring to a boil, cover with a lid and simmer for 30 minutes over low heat. Do not use a metal bucket, the metal oxidizes. After the solution has cooled, I dilute it with water (1: 5), filter and spray the plantings.

Nettle infusion. I fill 1/3 of a 200-liter barrel with nettles. I fill it with water not to the brim. I close the lid. I insist 7-10 days. For watering under the root I breed 1:10, for spraying - 1:20.

Approximate "treatment regimen"

To combat infections on roses, I prepare solutions of preparations strictly according to the instructions, I also maintain the intervals between treatments (usually 2-3 weeks).

1st treatment, spring (when the shelters are removed, the buds swell) - "Azophos" (contact preparation).

2nd (beginning of the growing season) - "Soon" or "Topaz" (systemic).

3rd (during the growing season) - "Ridomir Gold", or "Strobe" (contact).

4th (during the growing season) - "Fundazol" (systemic), although not only bad, but also good microflora dies from it in the soil. To restore the latter after 10-14 days I use "Fitosporin" (in paste).

5th (before sheltering the bushes for the winter) - iron sulfate (300 g / 10 l of water).

Irina YUSHCHENKO, experienced florist in Vitebsk

Sulfur will help!

To protect flowers and fruit crops from powdery mildew, rust and other fungal diseases, I use a highly effective contact fungicide containing sulfur - "Thiovit Jet" (20-25 g per bucket of water). I spray weakened plants two to three times per season with a frequency of 7-10 days. The tool also helps to disinfect the soil in the greenhouse.

Also suitable for the purpose of preventive treatment is colloidal sulfur, or cumulus (20-30 g / 10 l of water), I spray the bushes with the prepared solution before and after flowering. For achievement maximum effect it is important that the air temperature is not lower than +18 and not higher than +28 degrees (if higher, burns on the leaves may appear).

Irina PUZANOVA, St. Petersburg

We defeat fusarium

What about annual asters? Leaves turn brown and curl. Oblong brown spots, cracks appear on the stems. The buds are fading.

Inga Sherstneva, Minsk

Most likely it is Fusarium. If the rot has affected part of the seedlings recently planted in the garden, promptly remove the affected specimens along with the soil clod and burn. The surviving plants systematically (in 10-12 days) spray with a solution of potassium permanganate (0.5%) or copper oxychloride (0.6%).

Lyudmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Annually change places for planting asters, spilling the soil in advance with a solution of "Fundaeol" (0.2%), use seeds only from healthy plants, soak them for 30 minutes before sowing. in a fungicide solution (according to instructions).

A worthy rebuff to Wilt

On clematis leaves dry up and shoots wither. I dug up the rhizome L - it is also damaged. They say it's a wilt. How to deal with it?

Antonina Melnik, Pskov

The causative agent of the disease is especially active in hot weather with high soil moisture. From one affected plant, the entire collection can be severely affected. Cut off the damaged shoots and burn (along with all the weeds growing nearby), treat the bush with a solution of potassium permanganate. More efficient shedding of remaining lashes milk of lime(200 g lime/10 l water). The earth in the root zone should be sprinkled with a mixture of sand and ash (1: 1) with a layer of 5 cm. It is advisable to repeat this procedure before wintering. Next year, the bush will begin the growing season again and will be more lush. Do not forget to tie the shoots to the support, being careful not to damage them, because the infection infects the plant through cracks.

Elena PARENT, Moscow

After forced pruning of shoots affected by wilt, I spray the vine with a broom with a copper-soap emulsion)