How to prepare milk of lime for clematis. Feeding clematis in spring

Spring is a time of awakening of nature from hibernation. After the snow melts, care begins for perennial flowering plants in the garden. Experienced clematis breeders know that it is important to know not only how to care for clematis in the spring in the country, but also when exactly to start doing it.

Spring problems of the buttercup family

All agricultural technology, including steps on how to care for clematis after winter, consists of the usual procedures: treatment, fertilizer, loosening.

After the plant is released from the covering layer, all visible parts of it should be carefully examined for infection. Vine perennials are susceptible to viral and bacterial infections, each with its own symptoms and treatment.

• Rust infestation appears as scaly yellow-brown spots on the ground and growths on the roots. Treatment and prevention of rust - watering and spraying with copper-containing solutions, for example, Bordeaux liquid.
• The defeat of microscopic fungi, or wilt, can "dry" all young perennials. To prevent it in the spring, the plant is treated with a solution of foundationazole (2%). If it was not possible to get rid of this scourge in time, the damaged plants are disposed of so as not to infect the rest.

gray mold and powdery mildew may show up during the summer. When they are detected, the infected parts of the plants are destroyed, and the remaining ones are treated with foundationazole and Topaz or Skor preparations.

The formation of young clematis - growth features

It is more rational to breed clematis early autumn sometimes, giving the seedling the opportunity to acclimatize before hibernation.

During the first two years, the plant should be allowed to develop a strong root system. For this young bush do not allow to grow strongly, periodically pruning new shoots. All formed buds are also removed. At the end of the period of root development, the bush will delight not only with numerous shoots, but also with abundant lush flowering. In one place, climbing perennials can live for more than 10 years, how to care for perennial clematis - later in the article.

It will be useful for beginner breeders of perennial vines to know how to care for indoor clematis in the first years of its existence in a pot.
First you need to choose the right seedling. At visual inspection should pay attention:

1. on the root system (should be without damage and growths, which indicate a disease state of the plant);
2. for the presence of three obligatory shoots, on which the kidneys are clearly visible.

Seedlings at the age of two or three years - best option for the first experience with perennial vines. The most problem-free varieties in agricultural technology - purple hues, the most demanding for care - snow-white. Rose-red representatives act as the golden mean.

How to feed clematis in spring and summer

Spring stagnant water is a considerable danger to the roots of perennials. The areas closest to the plants should be dried as soon as possible. Podushivanie around the bushes should be done no closer than half a meter. Clematis are undemanding to the composition of the soil. Prefer loose, slightly acidic soil. But still, how to care for clematis with regular feeding?

It is carried out in several stages:

• in the spring, a solution of slaked lime is introduced into the soil at the rate of 1 cup per bucket per square meter landings;
• during the summer active growth fed with various mineral fertilizers, mullein - 1 time in 10 days;
• favorite remedy for all clematis - wood ash, it is required for each bush in a glass (per bucket of water).

An obligatory part of how to properly care for clematis at home is mulching a piece of soil near perennials with peat, sawdust with sand and ash. This will not only protect the roots from overheating, but also relieve the invasion of slugs and snails. For the same purpose, marigolds and calendula can be planted near climbing plants. Allocated by them essential oils they will scare away pests, and dense greenery will give the necessary coolness to the underground part of the vines.

How to distinguish clematis for an amateur gardener

Many would like to have this luxurious exotic miracle in their courtyard, but not everyone decides. Clematis have a reputation for being finicky capricious plants. In fact, any interested person can learn how to plant clematis and care for it. Agricultural technology requires certain skills, but first of all, you should decide on a variety. There are about three hundred varieties of plants of the ranunculus family. Botanists classify species according to their scientific criteria. It is more convenient for gardeners to distinguish varietal varieties by the method of annual bush formation, and these are 3 pruning groups: weak, medium and strong. Each category has prominent representatives. You can learn how to grow clematis from seeds.

Perennial climbing plants that do not need pruning

The first group of plants practically does not need pruning. Flowering occurs on last year's shoots. From the root points of growth is formed annually a certain amount of young branches, therefore, in order to avoid unnecessary density at the end of summer, underdeveloped ones that have not proven themselves with better side parts of the bush.

Clematis Albina Plena has been decorating itself with delicate double flowers since the end of April. Abundantly blooming creepers grow well on any soil, prefer semi-shaded places well protected from the wind. The height of an adult plant is up to 4 meters. The snow-white flowers are several layers of holly bells. They hang beautifully on purple legs, hiding the golden core from the eyes. The originator of the variety is Sweden.

Formation of a bush according to the second type: representatives of the group

Varieties that form inflorescences both on the branches of the last season and on young shoots are formed depending on the age of the stems. This is the second trim group. Last year's lignified ones shorten the second bud, green young ones - by a third of the length. With the onset of warm days on overwintered vines in the spring, early flowering, the second wave of buds is formed on newly grown shoots in the middle of summer. Such a cycle guarantees a long flower abundance for 3-4 months.

Pink-red varieties of flowering vines

Cherry red clematis Westerplatte is a compact plant with branches up to 2 meters long. Suitable for the design of small vertical supports. Simple single flowers reach a diameter of 16 cm. The velvety surface of the petals in the center is decorated with three shallow grooves. The core is light pink in color, with a rich red border. The leaves are light green, three-toed. Flowering from July to September, on the shoots of the last season.

Large-flowered clematis Viva Polonia was bred in 2014. The name translates as "Glory to Poland", in honor of the homeland of the originator. A charming red variety is a worthy representative of the clematis genus. Wide lanceolate sepals with wavy slightly lowered edges are decorated with a longitudinal strip light shade. The size of the flower in some cases exceeds 25 cm. The height of the vines is up to 3 meters. The flowering period lasts about 2 months in mid-summer.

Terry flowers of the clematis variety Vivian Pennel of the first wave have three shades at once: purple-red on the outside of the sepals, purple-blue along the edge of the flower, lilac-blue in the middle. In summer, single flowers bloom on new branches. blue flowers with golden stamens. The length of the stems is up to 3 meters. Flowering is long, from May to August.

Zoned for most regions of Russia, clematis Ai Nor is classified as an early variety. It was released in the middle of the 20th century. Lush-flowering vines can stretch to a length of about 3 meters over the summer. Large flowers of a light pink shade up to 15 cm in diameter, the base is bluish-violet. Anthers are dark yellow. The peculiarity of the variety is the color change from rich pink to almost white as it blooms.

Clematis in the color of the summer night sky

The most advantageous position in which Clematis Wildfire looks like a fantastic guest of the rainforests is the light background of brick or whitewashed walls. Early variety Wildfire is decorated with huge, up to 20 cm in diameter, blue- purple. From the edge of the petal to the center there is a wide longitudinal strip of purple hue. A simple flower consists of 8-10 sepals, partially overlapping each other. Red-burgundy stamens on white legs form a shaggy core. The length of the lashes is average - from 2 to 3 meters, early flowering - from May.

Compact clematis Teshio was bred by Japanese breeders and serves as a wonderful decoration for terraces, balconies and loggias. Under open sky lush garlands wrapping around small supports amaze the imagination with their unusual beauty. Strongly double blue-violet flowers 8-10 cm in diameter are collected from numerous narrow petals folded into a tube. When opened, the inflorescence looks like a slightly compressed sphere.

Exotic white - the most valuable varieties of clematis

White Clematis Duchess of Edinburgh blooms in the first wave in May-June, during this period terry inflorescences are formed with a pale green spot in the center. The second wave of flowering occurs in July-August, when semi-double flowers bloom on young vines. The diameter of the flowering part is -13-15 cm. Stems 2-3 meters long feel great as in open field, and in a large container in a spacious bright room.

New Zealand clematis Snow Queen is a representative of snow-white varieties. It blooms from May to October with large white flowers with a delicate lilac tint. The shape of the petals is oblong, with a sharp tip, 6-8 pieces each. Stamens are dark red. The length of the shoots is 2-3 meters. Looks amazing on dark background thanks to glowing flowers. The color of the leaves is dark green.

Polish Clematis Jean Pavel 2 is distinguished by the reddish-purple color of tender young shoots. An interesting feature of large white single flowers is the color of the longitudinal stroke in the center of each petal that changes during the season - from pale pink at the beginning of flowering to deep red at the end. Anthers on white legs of a contrasting dark red color, which gives the flower a special charm.

The third group of pruning - new shoots every year

The third group needs the strongest shortening of the stems, since the flowers are laid only on the young shoots of the current season. In autumn, all vines are cut almost to the ground, leaving the stems 25-35 cm long, or 2-3 knots. Interesting feature of this group - the shorter the vines are cut, the larger the flowers will be for next year.

The combination of two shades on one flower is a classic exotic

Bicolor clematis Vanguard from the end of June is covered with medium-sized flowers (5-7 cm). They seem to be made up of flowering parts of two different plants. The lower layer is rounded silky sepals of blood-red color with wavy edges. The second part is a spherical pom-pom made of lanceolate rose petals. The pistils and stamens form a sunny yellow center. The length of the shoots by the end of summer is 2.5 meters. Leaves are green and small.

Compact clematis Stasik forms shoots of 180-200 cm. Red large (up to 10 cm) star-shaped flowers have a light strip in the middle of a narrow sepal. The stamens are red on white stalks. Blooms from June to August.

Exotic Clematis Tango is a liana-like plant 200-300 cm long, covered with small flowers from June to September. They are light pink underneath. inner side from the bright red color of the edges smoothly turns to white, with dark streaks in the middle. In the center is a brown pistil, surrounded by purple stamens. The shape of the flower makes the plant unusual - it consists of 4 sepals with a wavy border.

Dark-flowered clematis - the most unpretentious care

Dark purple-violet or blue-violet flowers of Clematis Gypsy Queen are abundantly covered from June to October. Form - simple, from 6 ovoid silky monochromatic sepals, strongly open horizontally. On this velvety calyx, a delicate greenish-yellow hedgehog of anthers is comfortably located. The leaves are heart-shaped, light green. The length of the vines is 3-4 meters. The diameter of the flowers of the clematis variety Gypsy Queen is from 12 to 14 cm.

The long-known, purple, and therefore the most unpretentious clematis Victoria is famous for its non-capricious character. Abundantly blooming vines will decorate any shape landscape design. Suitable for all types vertical gardening. It will look more charming on a light background than on a dark one, due to its rich hue of the southern night sky. The average size flowers is compensated by their abundance. The length of the stems is from 2 to 3.5 meters.

Late blooming clematis Viola is an Estonian representative of the buttercup family. The first buds open in June. Exotic large flowers - rich purple color, without shades. The core is a golden yellow anther hedgehog. Sepals - wide, partially overlap each other, 4-6 pieces. The edges are slightly wavy. Feature of the variety - prefers a shady place. In the light, the inflorescences lose their bright shade, which reduces the decorative qualities.

Clematis Star of India lays large flowers at a height of 1 meter from the soil surface, so the place of application of the variety is high vertical forms. The variety has been known for a long time, reviews of Star of India clematis are replete with enthusiastic characteristics: frost-resistant, vigorous, unpretentious, charming. The longest shoots are stretched to a length of more than 4 meters. They are strewn with bright purple-violet large flowers from June to September. Anthers are white-beige, contrasting with the color of the petals.

The first description of Clematis Taiga appeared in 2016, when this Japanese variety received public recognition at the world exhibition as the best novelty. A spherical large double flower is assembled from purple-violet narrow petals with white-green tips. The height of the plant reaches 2.5 meters, in favorable conditions blooms from June to September.

Thank her very much!

From the magazine "VESTNIK FLOWER", 2004, No. 4
Lyudmila Sedun, Moscow Florists Club

"CLEMATIS. MYSTERIES OF PROFESSIONAL FLOWERING»

Finally spring has come! With anxiety and hope we go to the garden. Of course, there are losses, but not everything is as bad as expected. And we begin to loosen, dig, cut, tie up, rake needles, hoping to help our pets after another winter.

Shelter from clematis should be removed gradually: first, spruce branches, leaves, some peat or earth. If the soil has thawed, it must be loosened to destroy the soil crust and provide air access to the roots. It is better to leave the spruce branches and part of the peat to positive night temperatures.
Clematis, like all ranunculaceae, start growing early, usually at an average daily temperature above + 5C. By this time, it is necessary to carefully raise the shoots, inspect them, remove the damaged and weak ones, and cut the healthy ones to living pairs of buds and distribute them on a support.
The sand around the neck must be removed, the bases of the shoots and the ground around the bushes should be treated with a 1% solution of copper sulphate or 1% Bordeaux mixture. Then pour a fresh layer of sand (2-3 cm) mixed with ash and charcoal (1-2 cups of ash and 1 liter jar crushed coal on a bucket of sand). If there is no sand, then pour ash into the base of the bush and charcoal and loosen the ground.
Usually, the growth of shoots in clematis begins in the first decade of May, if there are no significant deviations from the average weather conditions.
Take your time to dig up the ground and check if the clematis has started to grow - you can break the only, very fragile young shoot and lose the plant.
When average daily temperature exceeds 10 * C, intensive growth of shoots begins, they grow by 7-10 cm per day. The leaves on the shoots have not yet unfolded, the petioles are small and cannot cling to the support. So that the young shoots do not break, do not intertwine with each other and do not form dense plexuses, it is very important at this time to distribute them on a support and firmly tie them up.
Night frosts below -5 * C can damage the tops of the shoots. Do not worry, in this case two new shoots are formed, but flowering is delayed by 10-14 days.
During the growing season, clematis must be fed at least 5 times. Make the first top dressing in late April - early May with a solution of ammonium nitrate. 2-g per 10 liters of water or 1-2 handfuls of fertilizer, scatter (salt) around the bush, followed by embedding. Usually a bucket of fertilizer solution is used for 1-5 plants, depending on the age and size of the bush, one bucket is used for a 5-10-year-old bush.
The second top dressing - after 7-10 days - it is desirable to make organic fertilizers: infusion of mullein (1:10), chicken manure(1:15), infusion of fermented grass (1:10). If organic fertilizers no, then feed with a solution of urea - 10g per 10l of water.
The third top dressing - 10-14 days after the second - make it a complete complex fertilizer (ideally "Kemira wagon") - 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water. Try to alternate organic and mineral fertilizers.
The fourth top dressing during the budding period is phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. Remember, you can not use fertilizers containing chlorine for clematis!
Fifth dressing - after mass flowering and pruning (for clematis of the second group, more on this below) with full complex fertilizer - 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of water.
During flowering top dressing is not recommended, they shorten the flowering time!
In the spring, between the second and third dressings, somewhere in the middle - the end of May, it is useful to water the clematis with milk of lime (100-150 g of slaked lime or crushed chalk per 10 liters of water).
Foliar top dressings are effective: in spring - with a weak solution of urea (1 tablespoon per 20 liters of water), in summer - with complete mineral fertilizer. Every year I do 3 foliar top dressings not only for clematis, but also for genus and perennials: one with a solution of trace elements (according to the instructions), two with a solution of potassium permanganate (2-3g) plus boric acid(1-2g) per 10 liters of water. The latter solution is also prophylactic against diseases.
At the end of summer, add 2-3 cups of ash under each clematis bush.
Clematis love not only to eat, but also to drink. IN middle lane watering is sufficient to carry out once a week. If the summer is hot and dry - after 5 days. It is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the soil - clematis love normal moist soil. In waterlogged soils, the roots do not have enough air (water and air in the soil are antagonists) and they cannot fully provide the plant with nutrients.
In the first year after planting, the irrigation depth should reach 40-50 cm, later 70-80 cm. In loose, rich soil, clematis roots penetrate to a depth of 8-100 cm, so an adult plant requires from 30 liters to 50 liters of water.
It is recommended to first water the ground near the center of the bush, then along the periphery. You can not water the center of the bush, the base of the shoots and leaves!
Most effective for clematis drip irrigation. It is advisable to install perforated pipes for irrigation and top dressing during planting or make vertical wells with a diameter of 10-15 cm, which are filled with gravel or crushed stone.
After watering or rain, it is advisable to loosen the soil. It is best to do this after 1-2 days, when the soil is still wet. Loosening wet or dry soil is useless.
Good results are obtained by mulching the soil (departing 10 cm from the neck) with rotted manure or compost, sprinkled with peat on top - in this case, during watering or rain, the plants will receive adequate nutrition, and the soil will not dry out.
An important agricultural technique in the cultivation of clematis is pruning. The growth and development of the plant, the timing, duration and abundance of flowering depend on how it is made.
How to prune clematis? It depends on the group they belong to.
The first pruning group includes Knyazhiki and mountain clematis, as well as their varieties. Plants of this group are grown without pruning. After flowering, weak and dead shoots are removed and thick, overgrown bushes are thinned out.
The second pruning group is clematis from the Patens, Florida and Lanuginoza groups, which bloom in early summer (end of May, June) on the last year's shoots and again from July to September on the current year's shoots. Pruning is also done twice. In the summer after the first flowering, the faded part is removed on last year's shoot or, if it is weak, it is completely cut out. In autumn, flower buds are laid on the shoots of the current year, so they are only shortened (weak pruning), leaving 10-15 knots (1-1.5 m). Completely cut out only diseased and damaged shoots. With a strong autumn pruning of all shoots (up to 1-3 nodes), in varieties of these groups, flowering next year occurs on current shoots at the end of July - in August and even in September. In some varieties it is weak, in others it may not be at all.
Some varieties of the Laneginose group bloom profusely on the shoots of the current year from early July until autumn (Silmakivi, Küllus, etc.). Make heavy cuts.
Large-flowered clematis of the Jacquemann, Vititsella and Integrifolia groups, blooming on the shoots of the current year, belong to the third pruning group. It is recommended to prune in the fall before wintering all shoots to the base or to the first true leaf. I advise leaving 4-6 pairs of buds on part of the shoots, and cut them back to a healthy pair of buds in the spring. From these buds, young shoots develop earlier than the main ones, and as flower buds are laid on the young growth of the current year, they bloom 1-2 weeks earlier. You can pinch the tops of the current shoots, then instead of one, two shoots will develop, and flowering will be delayed for 1-2 weeks. Thus, the timing of flowering clematis is regulated. If the shoots of clematis of these groups are not cut off in the fall, then in the spring the young growth begins to develop from the upper pairs of buds, from about 10-15, and Bottom part the bush remains bare.
If it is not known which group the acquired variety belongs to, cut the shoots to different height- one completely, others up to 10-15 knots. Such a combined pruning will allow you to determine on which shoots, last year's or current year, and at what time flowering occurs. Do not forget that in the year of planting, clematis of all groups should be cut in the fall to the first true leaf.
After autumn pruning treat the bases of the shoots with 1% iron vitriol, it is advisable to remove the sand from the neck before this, and then replace it with a new one.
These are the basic rules for caring for clematis: feed plentifully, water on time and cut wisely. Do not regret the time spent. Clematis will more than thank you for your care

Clematis are liana-like plants of the buttercup family. Among flower growers, it is known as clematis, willow or grandfather curls and is widely used for vertical gardening. Spectacular climbing shoots of clematis, humiliated from early June to August graceful flowers, serve as decoration of gardens and cottages, balconies and arbors. For getting lush flowering proper care is required throughout the growing season. Spring events are of particular importance. First of all - top dressing, laying the foundations for future flowering.

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Care after winter

They begin to take care of clematis literally immediately after the snow melts, freeing the awakened plants from winter shelters and performing a number of other simple but important activities.

Removal of shelters

After wintering, protection is removed from clematis. Do it gradually:

• When the mercury column in the daytime ceases to fall below 0 ° C, ventilation holes are made in the protection, providing access fresh air and light to the shoots of the plant.
• Fully winter shelters Harvest only when the threat of night frosts disappears.



pruning

Clematis are pruned in autumn. If for some reason this could not be done, then pruning is carried out in early spring:

• In varieties that bloom twice a year, all old and dried shoots are removed, and healthy ones are shortened to 1 m.
• Clematis blooming on the shoots of the current year are cut to a length of 30 cm, leaving 2-3 buds.
• In the spring, all broken and deformed branches are removed.



Support and garter

Spring growth of clematis shoots begins in May, reaching a maximum by the middle of this month. At daytime temperatures above 10 ° C, the vine stretches by 7-10 cm per day and needs a support, natural or artificially erected. It is worth taking care of its presence and garter of the vine in early spring.

The first garter is carried out on minimum distance from the earth. As they grow, the shoots of clematis are fan-shaped distributed over the surface of the support, carefully making sure that they are not intertwined, and fixed. This will provide good illumination of the shoots, protect the plant from mechanical damage and their consequences, and also give the bush a decorative look.



Scheme for fixing shoots of clematis

Watering

In spring, clematis experience an increased need for moisture. After the snow melts, the soil is sufficiently saturated with water, but its reserves are quickly consumed. Clematis react painfully to moisture deficiency, so in the spring, especially when a small amount rainfall, moisten the soil.

Watering is carried out infrequently (once a week), but plentifully, trying to moisten the soil to a depth of up to half a meter, which is explained by the tap type of the root system of plants. From 10 to 20 liters of water are poured under young bushes, 1.5-2 times more under adults. How older plant, topics in more it needs moisture.

Soil loosening

After each watering, the soil is loosened. This will avoid excessive evaporation of water and prevent the growth of unwanted vegetation.

The first time the soil is loosened in early spring, still wet from the fallen snow, in order to destroy the soil crust and weeds. Loosening is carried out to a depth of 2-5 cm.

Mulching

Covering the soil with mulch partially replaces watering and loosening. It helps to retain moisture in the ground, saturate it with oxygen and protects the roots from overheating.

Used as mulch various materials: peat, semi-rotted manure, sawdust, straw, compost, humus. The use of organic matter helps plants receive additional nutrition during rain.




Mulch is laid around the bushes, trying not to touch the shoots. This will protect them from being attacked by rodents.

Planting at the base of the shoots of clematis annual flowering plants works similarly to mulch. It can be marigolds, which not only protect the roots, but also repel some insect pests with the help of smell.

Prevention of diseases and pests

The roots of clematis, especially in conditions of waterlogging of the soil, are susceptible to fungal diseases (fusarium, wilting, gray rot), which can lead to the loss of the plant. As a preventive measure for the occurrence of diseases in the spring, under the clematis bushes, blue vitriol(50 g per 10 l), foundationol (20 g per 10 l) or any other fungicide, 3-4 l under a bush. The treatment is repeated 3-4 times.

Dangerous pests of clematis are gall nematodes that penetrate the root tissues and form thickenings (galls). To prevent their occurrence, spring soil mulching is carried out using mint or wormwood, the smell of which repels them.

Spring top dressing

The vegetation of most varieties of clematis is characterized by the annual renewal of almost the entire above-ground mass and a long and abundant flowering. To carry out these processes, the plant needs a large number of nutrients. Therefore, after winter, clematis needs to be fertilized.

For normal development, the plant needs 16 micro and macro elements. Three of them (oxygen, carbon and hydrogen) it receives mainly from the air. The remaining 13 are from the soil.

Fertilization Rules

Top dressing of clematis in the spring is carried out in compliance with several rules:

• fertilizers are applied after watering or in moist soil;
• to prevent "overfeeding", solutions of medium concentration are used, dry additives are scattered in small portions;
• the introduction of mineral additives is alternated with the use of organic matter.

Clematis do not tolerate chlorine-containing fertilizers.

Spring dressing scheme

During the season, adult clematis bushes are fed 5 times. Most of top dressing is in the spring.

Subsequence	Dates	Fertilizers used	Important information
1	First half of May	Urea solution (30 g per 10 liters of water) or solution ammonium nitrate(2 g per 10 liters of water under a bush from 5 to 10 years) or sprinkle fertilizer on the soil surface	Nitrogen is necessary for the growth of green mass. It activates the processes of cell division, preventing their aging. With a lack of this element, the growth of shoots slows down, the leaves become smaller and acquire a yellowish or reddish tint, few buds are formed.
2	One week after the first feeding	Infusion of mullein (1:10) or chicken manure (1:15).	-
2/3	Additionally between 2 and 3 top dressings (mid - end of May)	Soil liming: 150-200 g of chalk (lime) or dolomite flour. This solution is treated with 1 square. m. soil.	The introduction of lime milk implements 2 tasks: enriches the soil with potassium and calcium, without which it is impossible to get bright flowering; allows you to adjust the acidity of the soil: clematis do not tolerate an acidic environment. After liming, the soil is mulched
3	1.5-2 weeks after the second feeding	Any complex fertilizer, for example, Kemira station wagon, 1 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water	-
4	During the budding period	Superphosphate, potassium nitrate 1 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water	Phosphorus and potassium are essential for bud formation. With their lack, few flowers are formed. The pedicels of some of them darken, the buds go down and do not always open.

In summer, clematis is not fed. This shortens the flowering time!

Foliar spring feeding

Clematis respond well to holding foliar dressings.In the spring they are carried out twice:

• with the growth of shoots, during the 1st feeding, young shoots are irrigated with a weak (1 teaspoon per 10 l of water) solution of urea;
• at the end of spring, during the formation of buds - using the preparations "Master", "Avkarin", "Flower mortar".

Clematis will definitely respond to spring chores and will delight with their flowering all season.

How to properly feed and how to fertilize clematis Note to a summer resident From this article you will learn how to properly feed and how to fertilize clematis. To make your clematis "pleasing to the eye", you should adhere to simple rules care for this flower. As we already know, the agricultural technique for growing clematis is quite simple: clematis needs watering, tying shoots, pruning, loosening and mulching the soil, and feeding. However, the right place for planting clematis plays one of the main roles in growing this flower. As you know, for planting clematis, you should choose sunny or slightly shaded places. Clematis does not like drafts or blowing winds, therefore, when choosing a place to grow this plant, consider this feature. If we talk about the soil, then clematis needs well-fertilized, loose, light, well-permeable, not acidic, fertile soil. However, whatever fertile soil was not, clematis will need to be fed. Because clematis blooms profusely and for a long time and annually renews almost all of its shoots and leaves, then, naturally, it needs strength and energy for this - nutrients. That's why it's so important to know what kind of fertilizer your clematis needs and when is the best time to fertilize. Top dressing of clematis Starting from the end of May - beginning of June (during the period of active growth of clematis), clematis needs not only weeding, loosening and tying vines, but also top dressing. Most often, during this period, gardeners use urea to feed clematis, mortar or liquid manure. When clematis has not yet bloomed, but only plans to do so, it is worth taking care of the second feeding of the plant. During this period, clematis can be fed with fertilizer such as Agricola-7 (1 tablespoon of this drug + potassium sulfate is diluted into a 10-liter bucket of water). During the period of lush flowering, clematis needs not only abundant watering, but also top dressing. During the flowering period, clematis is best fed with mineral fertilizers or liquid manure. In August, clematis most often begin to get sick, which is why during this period one should closely monitor their health. For better "well-being" clematis can be fed with mineral fertilizers and ash. Ash not only contributes to the ripening of vines, but also improves the winter hardiness of flowers. When clematis fades, it needs the following top dressing: you can dilute the same drug "Agricola-7" or "Flower" into 10 liters of water. And when the growth of clematis comes to an end, it can be fed with "Agricola" for flowering plants+ superphosphate and potassium sulfate (two tablespoons of "Agricola" + one tablespoon of superphosphate and sulfate). Next, clematis must be prepared for wintering. Preparing clematis for winter At the end of September, clematis feeding is stopped and the preparation of the plant for winter begins. It is during this period that clematis can be transplanted to a more “safe” place if you made a mistake initially. In September, clematis care consists in loosening the soil and weeding. In mid-autumn, clematis requires pruning. Pruning should be done very carefully and accurately. Make sure that the root collar of the plant is underground. If it is on the surface, sprinkle it with humus. When the air temperature starts to drop, the clematis will need to be covered. This can be done using dry peat or humus. As for the wintering of clematis, it is still better to cover clematis than to leave it under a layer of snow. An excellent "insulation" for clematis will be crushed foam, brushwood or dry leaves. So that your “blanket” for clematis does not “clump” under a layer of snow, it is worth building a kind of rigid frame. For this purpose, a regular wooden box is perfect. So, clematis are covered with a layer of drainage, covered wooden box and waterproof material (polyethylene or the like, but with holes for air), sprinkled with earth (a layer of at least 30 cm). In the spring, shelter from clematis is removed gradually, in several stages. To begin with, a layer of snow is removed, later it makes holes for ventilation, and the polyethylene is finally removed only when the threat of frost has passed. The drainage layer (dry leaves) is also removed gradually so that the plant gets used to the coolness and the sun. Healthy clematis to you!