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Incredible daylily: features of planting, care and reproduction in the open field. Fertilizer for open ground

20.09.2017 2 464

Beautiful daylilies, planting and care in the open field for which are very simple, feel great almost everywhere. How to feed, when to transplant, how to propagate, what to do in autumn and spring, you can also learn from the article if you read the text in full. Do not miss all the tricks of flower growers ...

Conditions for growing daylily - light, soil quality

Due to the unpretentiousness and ease in growing and caring for the daylily, the "flowers of joy" settled in the gardens of the whole world. They adorn gardens in Europe, Asia, America and even northern countries. The duration of flowering and the beauty of daylilies depend on how accurately the recommendations for planting and care will be followed.

Flowers love the sun, a site lit all day is suitable for them. It is the lack of sun that explains why the plants in the garden stopped blooming. Light shading is allowed when growing varieties with dark colored petals. Under direct sunlight, they may lose their color brightness.

The underground part of the bush is represented by stolons - thickened rhizomes, in which moisture and nutrients accumulate during periods of drought. Novice gardeners believe that thanks to them, the flower can not be watered, but this is not so - the plant needs moisture for normal growth. For planting choose moisture-intensive soil. Loam with the addition of peat and leafy soil will be ideal in this regard.

Heavy soils, prone to stagnant water, are not suitable, as on them the stolons begin to suffocate from lack of air and rot. To get beautifully flowering daylilies, planting and care in the open field should be carried out on fertile, moderately loose soils. If clay predominates in the soil, it must be diluted with coarse river sand or vermiculite.

Daylilies in the garden - pictured

Important(!) The hybrid daylily makes special demands on the quality of the soil. Its flowering occurs when grown on a fertile garden soil with a high content of decomposed organic matter.

The bushes are resistant to winds and drafts. They tolerate low temperatures well, so when choosing a place for these plants, you should not waste time creating screens, natural shelters from cold air currents.

Daylilies - planting in open ground, technology, selection of seedlings, timing and schemes

To get healthy and beautiful flowering bush, planting should be done in early spring immediately after the soil thaws or towards the end of summer, when the plants have faded. It is then that the stolons contain the maximum amount of nutrients, which will contribute to better rooting of the daylily. Experienced gardeners note that the best result is obtained when planting plants in the autumn - buds are clearly visible on the roots, from which leaves and flower stalks will grow.

With them, it is much easier to divide the bush into several parts without damaging the growing points. To reduce the risk of losing plants in winter, it is important to choose the right time for planting in the fall.

For rooting, the pet will need about 45 days, so planting in the fall should be carried out 1.5 months before the soil freezes - in September or late August, depending on the region. So, in the Urals, Siberia, an earlier landing is recommended, a little later in the Moscow region, the Leningrad region, and central Russia. In the south, including the Kuban, a later landing is made.

preparation for planting daylilies - in the photo

At spring planting there is no risk of "falling out" of plants, she also has significant disadvantages. Young daylilies for the first year may not bloom. Especially often this happens when the bush is divided incorrectly, if few buds are left on the division. It is necessary to transplant before active leaf growth, that is, April or early May, depending on the region.

In order for daylilies, whose planting and care on the open ground has its own characteristics, to grow well, the soil must be dug up to a depth of 30 cm, and the roots of weeds should be carefully removed. Planting pits should be made wider and deeper than the size of the root system of seedlings. The optimal planting pattern is 40 cm between plants in a row. Up to 70 cm between rows.

At the bottom of the pits pour a mound from the garden fertile soil with the addition of a tablespoon of complex fertilizer for flowers in granules (nitrophoska, azofoska, nitroammofoska and the like). You can replace such a nutrient mixture with rotted manure with the addition of 100 g of wood ash. Daylily seedlings before planting should be soaked in a solution of a growth and rooting stimulator for 5-6 hours, for this they use:

2 g / 1 l of water
Gibbersib 1 g/1 liter of water
Heteroauxin 1 tablet / 5 l of water

After soaking, the stolons and roots are examined, the damaged parts are cut off, the wounds are dusted with crushed coal. After that, pets are planted in prepared pits. The roots are straightened along the mounds, covered with garden soil so that the growth bud is at a depth of 1-2 cm. Planted plants are watered, and then pour the earth into places where the soil has settled. Further care behind the daylily consists of watering, fertilizing.

Daylily care all year round

In order for daylilies to bloom, planting and care in the open field must follow without the slightest interruption. About 1.5 months, until the flowers form a full-fledged root system, it is recommended to reduce watering. At this stage, a lot of moisture is not needed, since they extract it from the stolons, and a large number of water in the soil provokes rotting of the root system. When leaving and watering, water should not be allowed to get on the leaves, as they can rot at the base.

With proper preparation of the soil and planting pit, daylilies do not need top dressing in the first year; in subsequent years, the plant is fed three times per season. What nutrients does a daylily require, how to feed it at different periods:

After germination, nitrogen and phosphate fertilizers- urea (15 g/1 sq.m.) and superphosphate (20 g/1 sq.m.)
During the formation of buds with potash fertilizers - potassium sulfate (15 g / 1 sq. M.) Or wood ash (1 glass / 1 sq. M.)
In autumn - leaf compost (leafy soil) and humus (up to 3 kg / 1 sq. M.)

Since it is necessary to take care of the daylily not only by watering and fertilizing, gardeners will have to take care of the absence of weeds and maintaining a normal level of moisture in the soil by mulching the plantings. Daylilies feel good if you keep the beds with them all summer under a mulch of pine needles with the addition of peat. With the onset of cold weather in late October or November, the mulch layer is increased to 30 cm, and in early spring, immediately after the snow melts, it is removed.

For a crop such as daylilies, planting and care in the open field, carried out according to all the rules, is the only way to achieve lush flowering, a little more trouble, and the garden will be painted with hundreds of bright flashes.

Daylilies are perennials, which throughout the summer adorn almost every area with their large bright flowers and a pleasant shade of greenery. Why do gardeners love them so much and for what qualities do they value them?

Growing a daylily on a plot with step by step photos

Daylilies come in all sorts of shades: see photo

red (for example, "Lights of Chicago"),

yellow ("Two rivers"),

Two rivers (Double River)

violet ("Evening flight"),

orange ("Kwanzo"),

Variety Kwanzo (kwanso)

burgundy ("Ninth Millennium"),

pink ("Pink Damascus"),

almost white ("Arctic snow"),

blue ("Orchid Elegance"),

apricots ("Star Composition")

and other shades of flowers, while it is not at all necessary that they will be monotonous.

Flowers can be simple and double ("Ninth Millennium"), gigantic and not very large.

Variety selection

Which variety to choose? This is already a matter of taste for each person individually, and there are plenty to choose from. Gardeners who have planted their first daylily bush most often cannot stop and acquire new and new varieties.

Why not, the daylily is an unpretentious culture, the care of which is not difficult, and at the same time it is decorative for almost the entire season. However, I would like to note right away that all new varieties need especially careful care and adherence to proper agricultural practices.

Conventionally, daylilies can be divided according to the height of the bush:

dwarf (about 30 cm) - "Stella de Oro",

medium height (up to 80 cm) – „Bela Lugosi”

Variety Bela Lugosi (Bela Lugosi)

and giants (from 80 cm and above).

Depending on the size of the bush, the size of the flower also varies. Undersized varieties strewn with small flowers, and giant daylilies have huge flowers up to 35 cm in diameter.

An amazing feature is that the flower lives only a day, and then dies off. But the bush constantly produces new and new flowers, so their fragility does not play a special role.

Daylilies, like most horticultural crops, differ in terms of flowering on

early,
mid-early,
later.

If the climatic conditions are harsh in this region, or a shaded place is chosen for planting bushes, then it makes sense to purchase early varieties.

Late varieties are not suitable for all regions. It happens that it seems that all agricultural technology is observed, and watering is timely, but the daylily does not want to bloom. This may just be due to the late flowering period.

A bush in cold regions does not have time to lay dormant buds responsible for releasing flower stalks before frost, and simply does not have the opportunity to bloom the next year. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention when purchasing a seedling to the timing of its flowering.

Seedling selection

Daylily roots are beginning to be sold in stores along with spring bulbous flowers, so a specific variety can be purchased as early as March. The root is usually packed in a plastic bag with holes so that it does not rot, and with the addition of wet sawdust, which allows it not to dry out until planting.

Of course, it is better to purchase a plant closer to the planting date, but if it seems that the selected variety may soon disappear from store shelves, then the root in the package should be stored until planting in a cool, dark, ventilated place, for example, under the bed or on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.

Now about that how to choose healthy planting material. Before buying the root must be carefully considered.

In no case should the package contain traces of mold and rot,
The root itself should not look shriveled or overdried.
It is desirable that a live kidney be present.
The size of the root often corresponds to the type of daylily, i.e. if a dwarf variety is chosen, it will be smaller than that of a tall one. However, in any case, it should be well developed, not look weak and contain at least a few "potatoes" (scientifically, stolons) - thickened, elongated tubers.

The time for planting a plant in open ground is the middle or end of May, when the earth finally thaws after winter and warms up enough. If the planting material is purchased with a closed root system, i.e. with a clod of earth, then you can plant throughout the season.

Planting a daylily is not a laborious operation. There is only one principle - the root is soaked in settled water until it swells for several hours. Anything that remains dry must be carefully trimmed.

The landing pit is shallow, about 25 cm. Inside, you need to mix the earth with peat and humus, add wood ash and mineral fertilizers, sprinkle with earth on top and spill it.

Stick the root into this “dirt”, carefully straightening its “potatoes”.
Then sprinkle with earth until the formation flat surface and tamp well.
In this case, the main thing is to deepen the root neck, but not more than 2.5 cm, otherwise the plant may rot.
Pour the seedling on top with a little water.

In the first year of planting, daylilies do not feed.

BUT you can choose any landing place: daylilies take root even in the shade, they just bloom half a month later. Some varieties prefer slightly shaded places, the bright sun can be fatal for them. Also, when planning and choosing a place to plant a daylily, the future diameter of an adult bush should be taken into account - they grow in width up to 70 cm.

Care

As for care, daylilies do not need frequent watering, however, they should be plentiful and under a bush (so that brown spots do not appear on the leaves).

Under favorable climatic conditions and regular watering (2 times a week), the daylily is able to bloom twice in one season.

In general, it is better not to get carried away with top dressing, especially in spring: a high content of nitrogenous substances will have a bad effect on flowering, as the bush will gain green mass, and there will be few flowers themselves.

The best time to feed is the period after flowering. Just at this moment, buds begin to form, giving flowers for the next year. In such top dressing, a high content of potassium is important, so you need to pay attention to the composition of the fertilizer.

Usually complex minerals are used with a ratio of parts of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) in a ratio of 5:5:12, respectively.

Preparing for winter

Preparation for winter depends on the particular variety. If it is old, i.e. the flower is simple, monophonic, then the daylily will calmly overwinter without any shelter.

If the variety is new, then better plant cover with sawdust, peat or spruce branches. However, in the spring it is imperative to remove the shelter so that it does not prevent the earth from warming up in a timely manner.

In mid-June, you can again mulch the ground to create a well-groomed appearance and protect against drying out of the soil. Mulching also helps against the appearance of weeds, but in the case of a daylily, this moment is not so important.

Bushes grow densely and do not allow any grass to settle in their zone. As a mulch, it is best to use a breathable material, not a film.

Pruning bushes

Pruning bushes can be done both in spring and autumn. It is necessary to prevent rot.

after the first frost. It is not necessary to cut short, leave 15 cm from ground level;
after the snow thaws in spring. Just remove all dried and rotten leaves and trim the ends of the rest.

When pruning, it is important to have a clean pruner that has been treated with alcohol after each use. This condition must be observed, since all diseased parts of plants are usually cut off with this tool, and in order not to spread the infection throughout the area, and daylilies in particular, one should not forget to wipe it.

reproduction

If the breeding process is carried out in the spring, then the newly-made seedling will have time to bloom this year. If divided in the fall, then flowering will occur next season.

Below is the sequence of division of the daylily uterine bush.

Dig up an adult bush according to the diameter of greenery bayonet shovel and bring it to the surface.
Separate the roots into green rosettes (fans) with your hands and spread them out. If you can’t do this with your hands, then you can use a clean knife or the same shovel, and sprinkle the cuts with crushed coal.
Carefully examine the roots for drying or rotting. Anything that looks unhealthy is cut out.
Plant delenki in the ground, straightening the root.

As you can see, the breeding process is very easy and unpretentious. The daylily bush itself can sit in one place for more than 10 years, but over time it ages, flowering, of course, is no longer as plentiful as in young bushes, so it is recommended to plant daylilies every 5 to 6 years.

Diseases and pests

Like every plant on the site, the daylily has its own pests and a complex of possible diseases.

The pests that can attack the bush include the daylily mosquito (gall midge). It lays its larvae in the flower bud, they begin to devour it, which has a very adverse effect on the appearance of the plant.

However, the bush produces so many flowers that the affected ones make up a very small part. Therefore, they can simply be torn off by hand and burned.

Such common pests as aphids, spider mites, thrips can also spoil the bush, they must be dealt with by spraying plants with Fitoverma solution.

We should forget about the underground eaters of daylilies, which cause irreparable harm to the roots and root collars - about nematodes and bears. To get them out, you need to buy a special powder and loosen it into the ground.

In general, pests are very closely associated with the spread of plant diseases, because it is they who carry viruses and fungal spores from one bush to another. Therefore, fighting them is very important.

And the main disease that is detrimental to the bush can be root collar rot, caused by improper planting or excessive watering.

If there is still hope to save the bush, then it should be:

dig,
cut off all rotted areas,
process in potassium permanganate or in a fungicide solution,
dry,
land in any other place in order to prevent re-infection.

In addition to this rot, spots and stripes may appear on the leaves and stems, which may indicate fungal or viral infections.

In order to avoid all this and not to ask the question “What is happening to my daylily?”, It is sometimes better to spray them with preventive fungicide solutions.

At viral diseases you should also use by special means fight.

Based on the foregoing, it can be argued that it is worth planting at least one daylily on the site, and with proper care, it will delight its owner with constant abundant flowering. Even a “teapot” gardener will be able to grow any of the old known varieties without making any special efforts to grow it.

Daylily (lat. Hemerocallis), or beautiful day- herbaceous rhizomatous perennial of the subfamily Daylily family Asphodelaceae. Motherland - East Asia. The daylily has been familiar to mankind since ancient times, but for the first time science started talking about it in 1753, when Carl Linnaeus gave it the name "Hemerocallis", which consists of two Greek words: "hemera", which means "day, day", and "callos", which means "beauty". In Russian, the plant is called krasodnev, that is, beauty that lives only one day.

Not only cultivated species and varieties of daylily are beautiful, but also “savages” growing in nature. In addition, daylily flowers are so unpretentious that flower growers call them the lazy gardener's plant, but this is true only for older varieties. In recent years, the daylily, thanks to American and Australian breeders, has been at the height of fashion: new varieties, although more capricious than the previous ones, are so incredibly beautiful that it is not at all a pity for the time or effort spent on them.

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Planting and caring for daylilies (in a nutshell)

Landing: sowing seeds in open ground before winter or in spring after stratification of the seed. Divide and transplant in the spring, in late April or early May.
Bloom: depending on the species and variety from May to August.
Lighting: bright sun, partial shade or shade.
The soil: any garden soil, except sandy. The optimum soil is a rich, well-drained loam that is neutral to slightly acidic.
Watering: infrequent but abundant. Water is poured under the root.
Top dressing: full mineral fertilizer in the spring, when the leaves grow, and a month after the peak of flowering.
Reproduction: varietal plants - by division followed by transplantation in August or separation of the daughter outlet without digging up the plant. Species plants can be propagated by seed.
Pests: thrips, water voles, lily mosquitoes, slugs.
Diseases: root rot, fusarium, rust.

Read more about growing daylilies below.

Daylily flower - description

The adventitious roots of the daylily are cord-like, usually fleshy, thick, and this helps the plants survive drought. The leaves are basal, broadly linear, two-row, arcuately curved or straight. Daylily flowers are six-parted, large, most often funnel-shaped, orange, yellow, red-brown or yellow shades, collected several pieces in inflorescences. Up to three flowers bloom at the same time, and the total duration of flowering of the daylily bush is more than three weeks. One or several peduncles are leafy, depending on the type and variety, from 30 cm to 1 m, sometimes even higher. Daylily fruit is a trihedral box with seeds. In horticulture, both natural plant species and numerous cultivars and forms.

Growing daylilies in the garden

How to grow a daylily

In nature, in their natural habitat, daylilies grow among shrubs on the edges of forests, so logically it is best to grow it in partial shade, and this will be correct if the penumbra is located in Australia, Africa or southern France. In our gardens, daylilies planted in partial shade may not have enough light and heat set for them to fully bloom, especially when it comes to hybrid varieties. Only bright sunlight will make the daylily bloom unique.

In the photo: Growing daylilies in a flower bed

Concerning soil for daylily, then the plant, although unpretentious and any garden soil will suit it, but if you want to get the most out of the daylily, it is better to bring the soil into which you immerse the daylily root in accordance with its tastes: add sand and compost to clay soil, to sandy - Enrich clay, soddy-podzolic soil with compost.

The ideal soil composition is rich loam with good drainage. In terms of acidity, the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic.

If creating good drainage for the site is a problem, make raised beds for the daylilies. Otherwise, daylilies require attention, but do not cause trouble.

What colors go with daylilies

Daylilies in garden design are used both as single plants and as group plants. They look great against the background of trees and shrubs (viburnum, panicled hydrangea, bamboo). Very beautiful borders are obtained from dense-bush daylily varieties, and undersized, small-flowered species and varieties are very good near stone hills, on the banks of a reservoir or river. Daylilies are also used as a decoration for winter gardens, they stand for a long time in the cut in bouquets.

In the photo: Orange daylilies in the garden

Since by the end of summer many daylilies lose their decorative effect, think in advance in which plants to plant them in composition so that the yellowed, dying daylily leaves are not visible.

Designers advise using ornamental grasses, physostegia, yarrow different shades or loosestrife point.

Daylily planting

When to plant a daylily

Plant plants from spring to autumn - planting time depends on your climate. If winter comes early and quickly in your area, then a daylily planted in autumn may not have time to take root before frost and die, because on average a plant needs a month to root. But if you choose garden forms with an early or medium flowering period, then even in latitudes far from the south, your daylilies can have time to prepare for wintering in the garden. Besides, mulching beds with wintering daylilies can protect them from cold and frost.

In the photo: How daylilies grow in a flower bed

From these considerations, proceed when deciding when you plant flowers. Flower growers believe that the best time for planting a daylily in the middle lane is May or August. It is also better to divide and transplant daylilies in spring or August.

How to plant a daylily

Before planting a daylily, pre-purchased planting material should be soaked in water or highly diluted water a few hours before planting in the ground. mineral fertilizer so that the roots swell and come to life, and then you will immediately see which of the roots should be carefully removed. Cut the rest of the roots to 20-30 cm in length.

In the photo: Young daylily

Dig a separate hole up to 30 cm deep for each bush or delenka, and do not forget that you are planting a daylily for a long time, and a bush that has grown over time to 50-70 cm in diameter should not be crowded. Pour a mixture of sand, peat and humus into each hole, add ash with superphosphate or potassium-phosphorus fertilizer, lower the roots into the hole, spread them over the mound so that there are no voids under the roots, fill the hole with soil, but not completely.

As for diseases, the daylily is most often sick with fusarium, rust and root rot.

root rot manifests itself in the spring, when young leaves that have already grown back suddenly stop growing, turn yellow and are easily pulled out of the ground. It is necessary to dig up the plant, cut out all the areas affected by rot, wash the rhizome in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, treat the wounds with a fungicide, dry the rhizome for two days and transplant it to another place. Don't expect it to bloom for two years. In the area where the diseased plant grew, do not plant daylilies for at least a year.

In the photo: Daylily after the rain

Rust appears in daylilies only if patrinia grows somewhere nearby - do not place them in the neighborhood, and you will not have trouble. For prevention, carefully treat daylilies with fungicides.

Fusarium is a known problem. Affected plants have a depressed appearance, the leaves turn yellow and die prematurely, the roots look like dust. The disease is fungal, destroyed at an early stage by fungicides. If the infection has entered into full force, the plant will have to be burned, the soil where it grew, and neighboring plants must be sprayed with Fundazol. As preventive measures sterilize gardening Tools, add Fitosporin-M to irrigation water, loosen the topsoil after watering.

In the photo: Growing a daylily in the garden

Daylilies after flowering

According to one of the classifications, daylilies are divided into deciduous, or dormant, semi-evergreen and evergreen. Sleepers (Dormant) daylilies are distinguished by the fact that in autumn their leaves wither, die off, the plant goes into a dormant state until spring. Evergreen in our latitudes, they have only a two-three-week period of rest. Semi-evergreen (Semievergreen) occupy an intermediate position: in a warmer climate they behave like evergreens, in a cool climate they behave like deciduous ones: the leaves turn yellow, but growth does not completely stop.

How to plant and care for irises - in detail

In deciduous or dormant daylilies, it is better to cut off the aerial part for the winter, but not very low, leaving 15-20 cm above the surface. You don't need to cover them, since dormant daylilies are winter-hardy plants. However, in the eastern and northern regions of the country, in the event of a snowless winter, evergreen and semi-evergreen daylilies can freeze to death, especially if frosts are -20 ºC or lower. Therefore, it is better to cover them for the winter, like newly transplanted bushes, with dry leaves, spruce branches, straw or sawdust, but in early spring, do not forget to remove the shelter, as daylilies wake up very early.

Types and varieties of daylily

Natural types of daylilies

All natural types of daylilies are beautiful, so they are readily used in floriculture, especially since they are very easy to care for and undemanding to growing conditions. In addition, they are resistant to diseases and pests, tolerate drought and waterlogging, they are durable, finally. Popular species are yellow daylily, red daylily, Dumorier daylily, lemon yellow daylily, Middendorf daylily. Let's talk a little about some:

daylily orange- the leaves are hard, dark green, up to 3 cm wide, sharply curved, the peduncles are branched at the top, up to a meter high, the flowers are asymmetric, up to 12 cm in diameter, orange in the middle with a red-brown tint, blooms in July, does not smell. In culture since 1890;
daylily lemon yellow found only in areas of Central China, the shape of the flower resembles a white lily, it has a nocturnal type of flowering. Forms a bush 80-90 cm in height, peduncles are high, branched at the top, flower length - up to 14 cm, width - 12 cm, the aroma is pleasant and very strong. Blooms up to forty days in the second half of summer;
day lily Dumortier, or wolf locust, grows in Northeast China, Japan, Korea and the Far East. Compact shrub up to 70 cm tall, bright green leaves 2-2.5 cm wide, peduncles at leaf level, 2-4 yellow-orange wide-open flowers 5 cm in diameter make up a dense inflorescence. Breeders favorite. In culture since 1830.

In the photo: Lemon yellow daylily

In the photo: Orange daylily

day lily hybrid

Or daylily garden - the common name for numerous varieties of hybrid origin, which in given time more than 60,000. The greatest contribution to daylily breeding was made by American and Australian flower growers, who managed to create species that differ in flower shape, in the presence or absence of aroma, in flowering time, height and such a wide range of colors that it is difficult to say what color daylily is in culture no. The hybrid daylily is a subject of a voluminous and structurally complex classification, in which plants are divided according to the length of the peduncle, the shape and size of the flower, the timing of flowering, color, type of vegetation, and many more features, and we will not delve into the presentation of this scientific work, created to a greater extent for academic professionals. We will introduce you to some interesting types and varieties of daylilies that will help you get an impression of this amazing and beautiful flower.

Daylilies of the double group

This, simply put, is a terry type of daylilies with additional perianth petals. All varieties are incredibly beautiful. For example:

Daylily Double Cutie- flower diameter - 10 cm, chartreuse-colored petals, green throat, medium-early flowering;
Daylily Double Dream- petals of apricot color with a dark orange throat 12 cm in diameter, bush height 60 cm, basal leaves;
Daylily Double Red Royal- the flowers are large, dark red, the petals resemble royal velvet. The shape of the flower is unusual: the outer petals are large, inside them there is an openwork rosette of smaller petals. The plant produces up to 30 peduncles, each with 10-20 flowers. Daylily re-blooming.

In the photo: Daylily Double Dream

In the photo: Daylily Double Yellow

In the photo: Daylily Double Cutie

Spider daylilies (Spiders)

Varieties with flowers in which segments are much longer than wide and resemble spiders in shape:

Daylily Helix- a huge spider with a green throat, gradually turning into yellow petals, the ends of which are dark crimson - very beautiful;
Arms to Heaven- a giant with a yellow-green throat and purple-red long petals, blooms profusely, height 90 cm, 16-20 flowers on a peduncle;
Free Healing- a very large cream-yellow spider with a red throat, thin petals are strongly elongated, up to 45 buds on one peduncle.

fragrant daylilies

There are all colors, shapes and sizes. Daylilies are so beautiful that they might not smell at all, but growing a flower in your garden that combines beauty and wonderful aroma is the dream of any grower:

Apple Spring- soft pink petals with a strongly corrugated greenish-yellow border around the edge. Flower diameter - 15 cm, on each peduncle 65 cm high up to 28 fragrant flowers;
Ode to Faith- deep yellow color with a pink tint along the middle stripe of the petal, golden corrugated border, green throat. The height of the peduncle is 84 cm, the diameter of the flower is 15 cm, a delicate aroma;
deciduous daylily Stella do Oro- delicate, fragrant, corrugated dark yellow funnel-shaped flowers 7 cm in diameter bloom profusely all summer. This variety is the winner of many awards from the American Society of Daylilies, it is beautiful not only in the garden, not only as a border plant, but also as a houseplant.

In the photo: Daylily Ode to Faith

In the photo: Daylily Stella do Oro

White daylilies

It must be said that among the varieties and forms of daylilies there are many that can be conditionally called white. Here are some of them:

Apple Blossom White- white daylily with a yellow, strongly corrugated border. Height - 83 cm, on peduncles 2 branches with 25 flowers;
Ruffled Parchment- corrugated white daylily with a smooth transition from creamy white to yellow in the throat area, very fragrant, flower diameter - 13 cm, peduncle height - 5 cm;
Granny Smith- almost white petals with a green corrugated border.

In the photo: White daylily

The fact is that absolutely white daylilies do not exist either in nature or in culture, so breeders have introduced the expression “near white”, which means almost white. In fact, the petals of daylilies, called white, have a very light shades cream, melon, pink, lavender or yellow.

Back

The daylily is often referred to as the "perfect perennial" for its many positive qualities. Bright flowering, a variety of varieties and colors, resistance to drought and heat, undemanding care - all these advantages have made the flower one of the favorite plants of landscape designers and flower growers. But how to grow a daylily? The planting of this culture must be carried out taking into account the rules, without which it will not be possible to obtain a long lush flowering.

Daylily is an impeccable unpretentious perennial.

The genus Daylilies has about 60 thousand varieties, which are replenished annually with new hybrids. During the flowering period, 2-3 flowers open daily on one peduncle, which dry up in the evening, and new buds appear in their place. There are also night varieties of daylilies that bloom throughout the night. If you like evening walks in the garden, pay attention to these views.

The forms and shades of flowers of daylilies are varied. Usually plants reach 45 cm - 1.25 m in height. Their basal leaves are two-row, in the form of a wide line, pointed at the end, very highly decorative. The total duration of flowering is 1-5 weeks. Depending on the variety, flowering occurs from early spring until the end of autumn.

Where and how best to plant a daylily?

Plant daylilies in early spring or early autumn taking into account the climatic features of the area. The plant should be able to take root well before the first frost.

The daylily prefers fertile loams and well-drained soils. Add organic matter to heavy soil, and clay or compost to too light soil. If there is not enough space for planting, you can place the plants in containers.

The area should be sunny or partly shaded. The lighter the bloom, the more sunshine required. If the daylily does not have enough sun, it grows poorly and stops blooming.

Daylily planting:

before planting, dip the root of the seedling into a solution of water and mineral fertilizer;
remove dried or diseased roots;
cut leaves up to 15 cm;
dig holes a little larger than the root;
at the bottom of the holes we fill up the soil mixture from the earth, compost, organic fertilizer, peat and sand;
we place the seedling in the hole so that its basal neck is 2-2.5 cm below ground level;
sprinkle the roots with the prepared soil mixture, cover with earth, slightly compact;
water the soil, and, if necessary, mulch the soil.

We plant seedlings at a distance of 45-65 cm from each other. We leave more space for fast-growing hybrids - up to 80-90 cm.

How to propagate daylily?

Popular breeding methods for daylilies - dividing the bush and transplanting air layers. Planting seeds is used more often in breeding work, as this method is not always suitable for preserving plant varietal characteristics.

When to divide and transplant daylilies?

We use the method of dividing the bush every 5-7 years, when a transplant of an old plant is necessary: with a decrease in decorative characteristics and a deterioration in the quality of flowering. Permissible time for transplantation is late autumn (1.5 weeks before frost), or early spring (early-mid-April).

How to propagate a daylily by dividing a bush:

we dig out a bush, not especially trying to be delicate;

we wash the roots, divide into divisions manually or with a knife;

sections on the roots are treated with a fungicide;

we transplant the delenki to a new place, if necessary, mulch the soil.

With proper planting, strong and strong delenki bloom in the first year after being placed in open ground.

How to propagate daylily by air layering

Small cuttings are formed on the stem in the axil of the leaves after flowering. Planting these seedlings is a simple method that allows you to get a full-fledged plant in the shortest possible time.

To do this, we perform the following actions:

after the stem dries, we cut off the ripened rosette at a distance of 4 cm from the node;
put the layers in water to get a strong root;
before planting, cut a leaf bundle up to 8 cm for better development plants;
we plant layers in open ground 7 weeks before the onset of frost;
we arrange the sprout so that the leaf knot with roots is 1-2 cm below ground level, we mulch the soil;
if the transplant is late autumn, we plant the layering in a pot with light soil, sprinkle it with a 1-centimeter layer of sand on top, leave the plant in a bright and warm place.

Layers planted in pots are watered throughout the winter, and in April we begin to harden: we take them out into the street, gradually increasing the residence time young plant outdoors. We plant in open ground at the end of May.

Daylilies: basic care

With the advent of spring, remove the layer of mulch, loosen the ground. In the first year after planting, you can not apply fertilizers, and in the future we use complex feeding with a low nitrogen content (in spring), and potassium-phosphorus - in winter.
Abundant watering is necessary for daylilies throughout the season. With insufficient moisture, the leaves turn yellow, lose their attractiveness and decorative effect. We pour water under the very stem, preventing it from falling on the buds.

We remove faded flowers and seeds immediately, this will accelerate the growth of new buds. We also cut off dry dead leaves. At the end of the season, before frost, we cut the leaves at the root and mulch the ground with peat.

Which daylily to plant: the best varieties

When choosing a daylily variety for planting, please note that there are early, medium and late flowering species. Such an assortment will allow us to decorate the site with magnificent and bright flowers that bloom from spring to autumn.

Daylily variety Strutter's Ball (Strathers Bol)

Daylily "Strutter's Ball" is a very popular variety of daylily, the flowers of which look like luxurious purple bells 15 cm in size. A bush up to 1 m in height. It blooms closer to mid-July with 15-centimeter flowers. Petals are dark cherry, with a bright yellow stripe that runs from the center of the flower to the tip of the petal. Blooms within 1-1.5 months. It reproduces well. With such a flower, your flower bed will not go unnoticed.

Daylily grade Strawberry Candy (Strawberry sweets)

Variety "Strawberry Candy" refers to the early. Bushes up to 70-75 cm in height, flowers up to 11 cm in diameter, with wide petals corrugated along the edge. The middle of the flower is bright yellow, the tone of the petals closer to the center is rich strawberry, gradually turning into caramel. Blooms for the first time at the end of June, and again at the end of August. Strawberry Candy has received many medals and awards in the United States.

Daylily variety Stella D'Oro (Stella D'Oro)

Flowers of the variety "Stella D'Oro" adorn the garden from May to mid-autumn. The plant is undersized (up to 35-40 cm in height), but at the same time, it is characterized by abundant long flowering. The flowers are lush, up to 6-6.5 cm in diameter, rounded, yellow-golden hue. The petals are densely planted, with a beautiful ruffled edge. The drooping leaves are highly decorative, light green in color. Daylily "Stella D'Oro" was bred in 1975 by an amateur grower V. Yablonsky.

Daylily grade Siloam Double Classic (Siloam Double Klasik)

Daylily "Siloam Double Classic", which is known for its sweet aroma, blooms in early summer with large apricot-pink double flowers, 10-12 cm in diameter. The flowering period continues all summer. Bushes 50-70 cm in height. Winner of numerous competitions, the variety was awarded the highest award in the most prestigious for daylilies international competition Stout Medal.

Daylily cultivar Double River Wye (Double River Wai)

The flowers are terry, rich lemon shade. The variety is different long flowering- from the end of July to the beginning of October. Bushes up to 1 m in height, flowers up to 14-15 cm in diameter. Up to 20 flowers are usually formed on 1 peduncle. The leaves are rich green, highly decorative, decorate the site throughout the season. The variety is very popular with landscape designers.

Daylilies go well in a flower bed with hosta, phlox, irises and lilies. Knowing the rules for growing daylilies - planting and easy care, you will receive a flower that will only delight you all season.

The daylily has become interesting for landscape design not only due to its decorative effect, but also due to the large number of variations in the appearance of its flowers, up to fantastic shapes and colors. For the first time, an explosion of interest in daylilies among breeders occurred in the 40s of the 20th century, when the first tetraploid variety was created using the mutagen colchicine, which dramatically expanded the possibilities for transforming the plant. The situation repeated itself in the 1980s with the discovery of clonal micropropagation. The intensity of work on culture does not decline even now: every year, varieties with flowers of more and more bizarre colors and shapes, pure shades and large sizes are presented to connoisseurs.

flower description

Daylilies are a genus of herbaceous plants from the Asphodelaceae family, originating from the Far East. They belong to rhizomatous perennials, have long, dicotyledonous leaves of moderate width, which can be either straight or concave.

Daylilies bloom with large, six-parted flowers collected in inflorescences. In one inflorescence there are from 2 to 10 flowers. In natural daylilies, flowers can be yellow, orange, pink or brown in color and are most often funnel-shaped. The smell of the daylily is sweetish, reminiscent of the aroma of lilacs or includes citrus notes. The fruits are three-lobed capsules with black seeds inside.

As a result of breeding work, about 30 thousand varieties and hybrids of daylilies were bred, which significantly expanded the range of colors and shapes. The diameter of the flower is 5-20 cm. Depending on the variety, the aroma can be either strong, fragrant, or weakly expressed or absent.

Flower stems can reach 30 to 100 cm in height. In some varieties, one peduncle can produce up to 50 buds. The flower opens for 1-2 days, at the same time 2-3 flowers bloom on the bush. The flowering period of one plant lasts about 25 days.

Daylily is a winter-hardy plant, capable of withstanding frost down to -40°C. There are deciduous, evergreen and semi-evergreen varieties.

Evergreen daylily in conditions middle lane may suffer from frost, but adapts surprisingly quickly - already 2-3 years after planting, the plant does not require shelter for the winter.

The period of active vegetation, during which the regrowth of leaves occurs, occurs early in daylilies - in March or April. early varieties in temperate climate bloom in the last third of May. Medium-term daylilies begin to bloom in late June or early July, late - in early August. There are very late varieties, but in the regions of the middle lane they do not have time for flowering, which begins in early or mid-September.

Landing

Daylilies are planted with the expectation that the plant will be in one place for the next 5-7 years or longer. But the culture tolerates the transplant well, so in case of an unsuccessful choice, the situation can be corrected.

Features and timing of planting in open ground

The choice of time for planting depends on the climatic zone of cultivation. Seedlings need at least a month to root, which should be taken into account when planting in the fall. Daylily is a very hardy plant and is able to survive even if it does not have time to take root well before the arrival of frost, but the plant will be greatly weakened.

Planting in spring has many advantages - seedlings are well received in a new place, they develop quickly root system, the bush is actively growing to the point that the first flowering occurs already in the current season. The disadvantage of the spring landing may be the instability of the weather: if there is a risk of frost, the procedure will have to be postponed.

In temperate regions, where spring frosts are common, planting should be scheduled for the summer. To do this, choose a cool, cloudy day. AT southern climate summer planting is not recommended, as high temperatures adversely affect the rooting process. A better time would be the beginning of autumn.

Attention!

Daylily should not be planted during flowering. During the period of adaptation to a new place, the plant may not establish the main flowering point, which will lead to a lack of flowers next year.

AT vivo wild daylily grows in partial shade, but sunny areas are more suitable for cultural cultivation, since the abundance of flowering and the brightness of flowers depend on the illumination. In addition, at hybrid varieties full opening of the flower occurs only in direct sunlight. Normally, a hybrid needs at least 6 hours a day to be under the sun.

For planting varieties with flowers of dark shades (red, purple), it is worth choosing a plot in partial shade for decorative reasons. Dark flowers fade faster than light ones in the sun, losing their attractiveness, and fade early. But even weakly colored flowers can fade to white color. This can also be seen as an advantage - there is no daylily with pure white flowers.

Daylily loves moist air, landing near water bodies is welcome. Plants can also be placed in open, blown areas - their flexible stems do not break even with strong gusts of wind. Large trees and bushes will be bad neighbors for flowers - daylily roots will not be able to absorb all the necessary nutrients and moisture from the soil next to such competitors. Also, when choosing a place, it should be borne in mind that the diameter of an adult bush can reach 70 cm.

The culture is demanding on the soil: it is important that the soil is loose and nutritious, with neutral or weak acidity (5-6.5 pH), does not retain water, but does not dry out too quickly. Chernozem and light loamy soils are ideal for daylily. In heavy clay soils, the roots of plants rot, on sandy soils they quickly come to the surface.

How to plant

Before planting, the soil should be dug up to the depth of a shovel bayonet. It is useful to add a couple of glasses of wood ash to the planting soil per plant as a supplement with potassium and phosphorus, which are necessary for initial stage for the development of roots and adaptation to a new place.

If replacement of the soil is not required, the pit is made of such a size that the roots of the plant can fit in it in a straightened form. The distance between the holes should be 70 cm; when planting tall varieties, it is better not to retreat less than a meter. Low-growing varieties can be placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other.

In regions with heavy spring floods, daylilies are grown on raised ridges, that is, they are planted on an artificially created earth embankment. Plants tolerate a temporary excess of moisture during spring floods well, provided that the root collar is above the water level.

In the center of the hole, a mound is formed from loose earth, on top of which a plant is placed. The roots of the seedling are straightened on the "slopes" of the embankment. It is necessary to arrange the daylily so that the root neck is buried at a level not lower than 2-3 cm from the surface. Going deeper can cause the plant to rot or, at best, not bloom until the stem reaches higher. But when planting in sandy soil, the root neck of the daylily should be deepened by 4-5 cm.

The hole is filled up, easily compacting each layer of soil with your hands so as not to leave air voids. After filling the roots with a layer of soil, you need to fill the pit with water to the brim. If the water leaves too quickly, you need to fill up another layer of soil and pour water again. This will ensure good contact of the roots with the soil. After the water is absorbed, the pit is completely filled up. After planting, the plant needs to be watered again.

After planting, the soil should be mulched with peat or dry humus, covering the root collar by 1.5-2 cm.

Soil improvement

Growing on depleted, clay or sandy soils will require soil improvement measures. In this case, you should dig a hole twice as large as the roots of the plant require, and replace the earth taken out during digging with a specially prepared fertile soil mixture:

if the soil is clay, you need to make a mixture, where 3 parts of ordinary soil account for 1 part of sand, 2 parts of peat and 1 part of compost;
if sandy - mix in equal parts soil from the pit, clay soil, compost and peat;
if the soil is poor, depleted, add rotted compost.

To grow a daylily on acidic soils, they will require preliminary liming, on alkaline soils, the introduction of peat or other slightly acidic organic substances.

Seedling preparation

When choosing a seedling, you need to make sure that it has healthy and developed, fleshy roots, on which there are rudiments for one or more rosettes of leaves.

If it is not possible to plant when the seedlings have already been dug up or bought (for example, due to frost), you can save them by digging the root into the sand or sand-peat mixture. Leaves should be cut in half to reduce moisture loss. Under such conditions, a daylily seedling can be kept in a healthy state for about a month.

Before planting, the roots should be soaked for several hours (but not more than a day) in water. This measure is not necessary if the seedlings are obtained from their bushes, but in the case of purchased material it ensures that the roots do not become dehydrated.

The soaking water can be replaced with a low concentration fertilizer solution or growth stimulants can be added to it, for example, a 0.05% concentration of heteroauxin solution. In the case of summer planting, the solution must be made at a lower concentration - approximately 0.0015%. A safe folk remedy of this kind is willow infusion. To prepare it, you need to infuse chopped willow branches in water for 2 days. Daylily roots can be kept in the infusion for 4 hours.

Soaking is carried out in a dark place at a temperature of 20-22°C. In no case should the treatment be carried out in hot rooms (more than 28 ° C), this will lead to the death of plants. At temperatures below 15°C, soaking in growth promoters will have no effect.

It will not be superfluous to treat the roots with fungicides. This measure is especially relevant for planting in the summer and is necessary in case of propagation by dividing the bush.

After soaking, the condition of the roots is better seen. Dry or rotten shoots should be removed, and the leaves should be cut to a length of 10-15 cm from the root neck. The cut sites must be disinfected by treating them with activated or charcoal powder.

Outdoor daylily care

The daylily is able to survive without care, but the high decorativeness for which this culture is valued will be lost. The minimum and, at the same time, the basic requirement for caring for a plant is competent watering. Watering is required in summer, but in spring and autumn it is required to control soil moisture.

The number and size of buds that the plant will throw out depends on the amount of moisture received. Under the influence of heat in the summer, the color of flowers may not change for the better, and it depends on the abundance or lack of water how successfully the plant will resist the effects of temperature.

In a temperate climate, watering is carried out 1 time, in the southern regions - 1-2 times a week. In cool weather, you can water less often, but you should always monitor the color of the leaves of the plant - their blanching indicates a lack of moisture. Water deficiency is also manifested by the fall of buds or their absence in due time.

The first week after spring or summer planting, daylilies should be watered every day.

Water should be applied in large portions, soaking the soil to a depth of 60-70 cm. For young bushes, it is enough to moisten 30-40 cm of soil, but as the root system grows, the plant will need more and more water.

Surface wetting of the soil, which is often the result of short-term summer rains, cannot make up for the daylily's need for moisture. You should focus on the amount of precipitation, as well as on the characteristics of the soil. The average frequency of watering is calculated for daylilies in loamy or improved clay soils that retain moisture well, while daylilies growing on sandy soils require more frequent irrigation.

Watering is carried out in the evening. The water temperature should be 20-25°C. Sprinkling is very useful for the daylily - this is the prevention of pests, such as spider mites. The risk of bacterial growth due to leaf wetness is not a threat for most daylily varieties. This method of irrigation is undesirable only during flowering - some varieties may have spots on the flowers. During this period, watering under the bush is recommended.

spring

Immediately after the snow melts, the plant must be freed from the mulch layer, opening up the sun to the soil. "Winter" shelter materials are too dense and will prevent the soil from warming up, which will slow down the growth and development of the plant. If the daylily was not pruned in the fall, it is carried out immediately after removing the litter in the usual way. Dry leaves should be removed. Around the same time, you need to carry out the first feeding.

The first top dressing

The main elements for development and growth are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The second most important for daylilies are calcium, magnesium and sulfur. Of the trace elements, boron, copper, iron, manganese, zinc, chlorine, and molybdenum are required. For the first top dressing it is convenient to use complex fertilizers containing the main set of nutrients, such as Nitroammophoska. Fertilizer can be applied by irrigation, or scattered on the surface of the soil - the substance will go into the soil along with melt water. It is important to prevent fertilizer from getting into the growing point of the bush.

During the period of active growth, when the soil warms up to 6-8 ° C, you need to make a second top dressing. In the fertilizer, the proportion of nitrogen should be increased to stimulate the set of green mass.

Attention!

In the spring, nitrogen deficiency is likely if sawdust, straw or needles were used as mulch for the winter. The decomposition of these materials reduces the concentration of the substance in the soil. Nitrogen deficiency is manifested in the yellowing of foliage and stunting of plants.

For the second top dressing, you can use complex fertilizer, and then carry out foliar top dressing carbamide (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water). A good alternative at this stage would be organic fertilizers. It can be a manure solution (1 part to 10 parts of water), chicken manure(1:20) or an infusion of fermented herbs (1 liter of infusion is diluted with 10 liters of water).

The downside of organics is the low content of phosphorus required for the development of a strong root system and seeds, and support for immunity to diseases. Daylily care should not be limited to natural fertilizers.

Of the trace elements in this phase, magnesium is important, especially if the spring turned out to be dry. It is recommended to apply magnesium sulfate foliarly. Can be combined with additional feeding nitrogen.

For effective foliar feeding:

The air temperature during spraying should be about 12 ° C, so in the spring such top dressing is most effective.
It is necessary to try to spray the lower part of the daylily leaves - this is where the pores that absorb fertilizer are located.
For good absorption of nutrients through the leaves, the plant must be provided with sufficient calcium through the soil.

Mulching

After the second top dressing, when the soil warms up, put a new layer of mulch. Taking into account the requirements of plants for moisture and soil quality, mulching in summer is the best solution, since it prevents the soil from drying out and overheating, acts as an organic top dressing, and is a good environment for the development of beneficial microorganisms that protect the plant from bacterial infections.

Leaves or grass clippings are the best bedding for the summer, but these materials need to be partially rotted or the mulch will block water and air from entering the soil.

Lay the mulch in a layer of 5-10 cm. Near the base of the bush, the layer should be thinner so as not to interfere with the emergence of new layers. In addition, the plant mulch will decompose as it mixes with the soil, so thickening of the soil layer is possible, leading to excessive root collar penetration after a few years.

Preparing for flowering

During budding and flowering, the daylily needs more water. The soil must not be allowed to dry out, watering must be uniform, otherwise the buds may dry out without opening.

During this period, top dressing is needed if the daylily grows on poor soil or sandy soil. Loamy soil can retain nutrients longer. In the flowering phase, the need for potassium, calcium and magnesium increases.

Potassium is especially important for varieties with dark and bright colors - the element will help their color to open up. With a deficiency of potassium, the leaves turn yellow, a brown edge appears on the edges. First of all, these signs can be seen on old leaves, later they spread to young ones.

For more beautiful, larger and bright colors, you need to feed with organic matter: pour with solutions from manure, bird droppings or green infusion. Organic fertilizer from plant residues is a good source of micronutrients, but should be used sparingly before flowering. Overfeeding with nitrogen will negatively affect the beauty of flowers - their color will become uneven, spots may appear on the petals.

If liming was carried out to deoxidize the soil under the daylily, then the plants are already provided with a sufficient amount of calcium and magnesium.

autumn

In autumn, the last dressing and pruning of the daylily is carried out, although some gardeners prefer to prune the plants in the spring. Watering the daylily depends on the amount of precipitation - if the autumn is dry, you need to give water before the first frost.

Autumn top dressing

Fertilizer is applied a month after the peak of flowering. At this moment, generative buds are being laid, that is, the nutrition that the daylily will receive will determine the quality of flowering next year. During this period, the plant requires phosphorus and potassium. These elements also increase its resistance to the coming frosts.

In the southern regions, complex fertilizers can be used for top dressing, but in a temperate climate it is worth abandoning them, otherwise the plant will receive too much nitrogen, which reduces its chances of a successful wintering. Nitrogen will not allow the daylily to slow down growth and enter a dormant period before the onset of frost. For the same reason, compost or manure is not used; superphosphate and ash should be preferred. Since these substances cannot be mixed, two separate top dressings can be made or ash can be replaced in a mixture with superphosphate potassium sulfate or potassium chloride.

pruning

Even if the plant did not receive nitrogen in the fall, frosts can begin in regions with a cool climate before the daylily leaves have time to dry. naturally. The rapid death of most of the green mass weakens the plant. To avoid this, the leaves are pruned.

The procedure is carried out with the onset of the first frost. It should not be done earlier, otherwise the daylilies will again begin to increase the vegetative mass. Cutting too short can cause the same effect. The leaves must be cut at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground, the places of the cuts must be disinfected with ash.

Shelter for a daylily is required not so much for protection from frost as from temperature extremes. If the winter is snowy and the temperature is below freezing throughout the season, the plant will hibernate safely. But in regions where thaws occur in winter, sharply replaced by frosts, the daylily can leave its dormant state during warming and start growing. The subsequent cooling will be a strong stress for the plant. Both deciduous and evergreen varieties can be affected.

It is necessary to lay the litter before freezing, but after the soil has cooled. Winter shelter should be dense, materials such as straw, needles, sawdust, tree bark are suitable. On alkaline soils, needle mulch is especially useful due to its weak acidifying effect. For mulching tree bark Pine or larch bark is best suited.

Attention!

You can not mulch the daylily with fresh bark or wood shavings. These materials can only be used after prolonged overheating, during which toxins dangerous to the daylily are released.

You can leave a layer of summer mulch on top with extra bedding. But if the daylily was sick with fungal diseases, the mulch needs to be replaced (the old material must be burned), the litter is a great place for overwintering fungal spores.

The mulch layer should be about 10 cm. This depends on the climatic conditions and the density of the material. For example, a layer of needles for the winter should be about 20-30 cm. If the daylily was planted in open ground in the fall, it is necessary to spud the base of the plant with earth and humus from the leaves by 10-15 cm.

Potential Growing Problems

When growing daylilies, situations are possible when healthy plants not damaged by pests begin to show deviations in development. More often we are talking about a violation of the rules of care, but it may also be the result of a variety that does not meet the growing conditions.

One of the most common problems is the yellowing of the leaves in the absence of diseases or pests.

If the lower leaves turn yellow, subsequently cracking and drying out, in evergreen daylily varieties, we are talking about a natural replacement of foliage.
Yellowing of the leaf with subsequent development of necrosis may occur due to frost.
If chlorosis appears in early spring, it is likely that the plant has come out of dormancy with insufficient high temperature soil.
Leaves can turn yellow with excess moisture, due to oxygen starvation of the roots.
The reason may be the drying of the soil, especially heavy soils that compress the roots, which leads to their injuries. This should also include any damage to the roots - by gnawing insects or as a result of inaccurate transplantation.
This is how the effect on the plant of toxins accumulating in the soil as a result of herbicidal treatments is also manifested.
Another cause of chlorosis can be a lack of iron or an excess of lime in the soil. The weak acidity of the soil prevents the absorption of iron, in this case it is necessary to feed the plant using a foliar method.

In alkaline soils, rotted manure and superphosphate should be applied very moderately. It is necessary to take care of the acidification of the soil - the lack of acidity makes it difficult to absorb not only iron, but also other useful substances.

As a rule, when suitable conditions for growth are provided, daylily leaves acquire a normal color over time, in extreme cases a transplant is required.

Diseases and pests

Daylilies can suffer from fungal, bacterial and viral infections.

Common diseases of daylilies:

leaf striping ( fungal disease). Dark green spots appear along the central line of the leaf, acquiring a brown tint over time. Leaf areas around the affected area turn yellow.
Rust (fungal disease). Orange powder-like spots appear on the leaves and flowering stems. Under the rusty pollen on the leaf are light areas. Yellowing of leaves.
Root collar rot bacterial disease). Yellowing and dying of leaves, softening of the tissue of the root neck, an unpleasant odor. Subsequently - the death of the bush.
Tobacco ring spot (virus). The appearance of spots, stripes, dots on the leaves, mosaic color. The leaves are bent, lag behind in growth.

Attention!

The saturation of the soil with organic matter favors the development of infections and the defeat of the daylily by some underground pests.

Treatment of diseases:

Disease	Contributing factors	Treatment	Prevention
leaf striping	Damage by insects that feed on the sap or tissue of plants (the fungus enters the tissues through “wounds”), excessive density of bushes, rainy summer.	Removal of diseased leaves, treatment with fungicides ("Fundazol", "Alirin", "HOM"). In autumn, all the leaves of the bush are pruned at a small distance from the ground.	Spraying the leaves and watering the soil with Fitosporin.
Rust	High humidity air (about 85%), warm weather (24-28°C), mild winters.	Removal of affected leaves, treatment with fungicides, autumn pruning leaves under the root. Treatment with the drug "Euparen" (less, but effective - "Folicur").	Refusal to water by sprinkling, except for the warm season, when the plant dries quickly. Control of potash and nitrogen fertilizing (avoid excess). Spraying with Bayleton.
Root collar rot	Heavy soil, stagnant water, excessive deepening of the root collar, planting during a hot period, overheating of the soil, stress after temperature changes, mechanical damage to the roots.	It is necessary to dig up the daylily and wash the roots, removing the rot. Trim diseased areas to healthy tissue, and then treat with fungicides. Disinfect the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Dry the roots for 2 hours in the shade, plant the plant.	Compliance with agricultural technology - irrigation regime, nitrogen restriction in top dressing, proper fit, providing shelter for the winter.
Tobacco ring spot	The presence of a number of diseased bushes - the virus is transmitted by pollen, insects.	Is absent. Sick bushes are dug up and burned.	Destruction of diseased bushes, disinfection of tools.

Daylily pests can ruin the decorative appearance of leaves and flowers, but many of them can also seriously impair the health of the plant.

Thrips. Insects hide in flower buds and axils of leaves, between petals, feed on plant sap. Pale spots and strokes appear on the leaves and petals, the flowers are deformed.
Spider mite. An adult insect feeds on the sap of the plant, leaving colorless areas on the leaves and brown spots.
Root tick. The insect lives in the soil, eating through the passages inside the leaves and flowering stems. Brown spots appear on the lower part of the leaves, and rotten areas appear on the roots. Growth slows down, leaves and shoots are deformed.
Daylily gall midge. The larvae eat the tissues of the buds. Deformation, stunting and dropping of buds.

It is possible to distinguish the defeat of the gall midge from other causes that cause deformation of the buds by the accumulation of a large volume of liquid between the petals.

Herbal bug. It feeds on the juice of flower buds and leaves. The saliva of the nymphs is toxic, causing the flower buds to fall off, the shoots and leaves to deform, growth to slow down, and the plant to wilt.
May beetle, bronze. Adult beetles feed on flowers, beetle larvae feed on roots.
Slugs. They eat plant tissues, leaving holes in the leaves and "bitten" edges. Young people suffer the most.

Pest Control Methods:

Pest	Contributing factors	Treatment	Prevention
thrips	Warm weather (25-30°C), air humidity - 85%. Drying out of the soil.	Trimming the affected leaves by three quarters, spraying with organophosphorus preparations ("Aktellik").	spraying systemic insecticides("Karbofos", "Fitoverm", "Intavir"), starting in early spring. Autumn garden cleaning from plant residues.
spider mite	Hot, dry weather.	Spraying with systemic acaricides.
root mite	23-25°C, humidity - 85%.	The plant should be dug up and the roots immersed in a 0.8% Aktofit solution for a day.
Daylily gall midge	lingering rains at the beginning of summer.	It is necessary to pluck damaged buds and burn. Treatment with systemic-contact insecticides for the destruction of adults.
grass bug		Treatment with plant insecticides (for example, "Rotenon") or their synthetic analogues - pyrethroids.	Autumn cleaning of the soil around the bushes, removal of weeds.
May beetle, bronze		Spraying the entire garden with "Karbofos" (0.2%), digging between rows and collecting larvae, traps for adults.	Attraction to the site of rooks and insects that destroy the beetles (beetle-eating fly, scoliosis wasp).
Slugs		Using traps, spraying with infusions of mustard or garlic. In case of severe damage - treatment with 50% Metaldehyde (make a 0.5-1% solution). The product should be applied in early spring in the evening, but not more than 2 times per season.

Daylily propagation methods

As a rule, daylilies are propagated vegetatively, since seed is only suitable for natural species. In other cases, a daylily grown from a seed will lose its varietal characteristics.

seeds

First, the seeds are germinated by soaking in water. After the appearance of the leaves, they are planted in containers with earth. Seedlings can be transplanted into open ground when the plants reach 15-20 cm. It is important that planting takes place during a period when there is no threat of frost. Plants will bloom only in the second or third year after planting in open ground.

At the stage when the seeds hatch, they are positioned so that only the roots are soaked, growth stimulants, for example, Epin, Zircon, can be added to the water.

By dividing the bush

Daylilies are able to grow 10-15 years without a transplant, but the peak of flowering falls on the 5-7th year of growth. After this, the number and size of flowers will decrease, making transplanting after 7 years reasonable.

It should be propagated by division in early spring, when new leaves grow by 8-10 cm. In this case, the transplanted bushes will bloom already in the current season. Reproduction in summer is less desirable, since the daylily will more easily endure the procedure in cool weather. The plant transplanted at this time needs to be shaded for some time. Autumn transplantation is appropriate only if after the end of flowering there are still 6 weeks before frost.

The bushes are dug up and divided into parts so that each new bush has a strong rhizome, part of the green cover and at least 2-3 buds. If the roots can be separated by hand, this less traumatic method should be preferred, having previously washed out the earthen lump with a strong stream of water. If not, use a knife, treating the cuts with fungicides.

Bushes 5-7 years old are divided into equal parts, but in older specimens, only the peripheral sections of the roots are separated in this way. The rhizome in the middle part of a large and old bush takes root much worse, therefore it requires additional preparation. It is necessary to shorten long roots to force the bush to form new ones, to remove rotten and dry areas. After that, the bush is grown for 1-2 years before planting in a permanent place.

It is not necessary to divide the entire bush, you can cut off the peripheral parts of the rhizome with a shovel and dig it up. The central part is left in the old place, fresh soil is added to the place of the excavated fragments. The old bush is not watered for several days, otherwise the sections may rot.

Proliferation

This method involves rooting leaf rosettes. In order for the new plant to take root, you need to let the outlet develop well on the parent bush. To do this, the peduncle is not removed until its upper part, located above the outlet, dries. After that, the flower stem is cut off, leaving 4 centimeters above and below the rosette, and the leaves are shortened by a third.

The lower part of the outlet, where its fabric has a brown tint, must be soaked in water; biostimulants can be added. Over time, roots will begin to grow from this part. When the roots reach a length of 4-5 cm, you need to plant the plant in the substrate. Seedlings are grown until spring in a warm and bright place. In early May, it can be planted in open ground, cutting the leaves up to 8 cm in length.

On a note!

In the case of early varieties or when grown in the southern regions, if 6-7 weeks remain before stable frosts, the rosette with overgrown roots can be immediately planted in open ground.

Among the classifications of daylily varieties, of interest to the gardener are those that relate to the appearance and characteristics of flowering.

According to the chromosome set, daylilies differ:

Diploid - have 22 chromosomes, like most plants. This type includes species and part of breeding daylilies. Compared to representatives of the genus with a large number of chromosomes, diploid daylilies are less whimsical in care, are more amenable to reproduction, and only among them are terry varieties and spiders, as well as true pink color in flowers.
Triploid, tetraploid, polyploid - have 3, 4 or more sets of chromosomes, all representatives of this type are bred in a selective way. Advantage - in colors bigger size and more saturated shades, a variety of colors that are inaccessible to diploids, the leaf tissue is denser, flower stalks, leaves, and buds grow faster.

According to the structure of the flower, daylilies are:

Single - the flower consists of 3 petals and 3 sepals.
Terry - the flower has additional layers of petals. There are peony-like flowers (the false petals in the center of the flower are actually degenerate stamens) or flower-in-flower (the flower consists of 2 layers of true petals). But in each layer there will be 3 petals (real or false), which distinguishes a double flower from a polymer-shaped flower.
Polymers are daylilies with more than 3 petals (tetramers, pentamers, hexamers, there are also varieties that have more than 6 petals). The number of sepals corresponds to the number of petals. Can be simple when 4 or more petals are on the same level. There are terry varieties.

According to the shape of the petals are distinguished:

Round flowers - the edges of the petals and sepals are smoothed, so that the overall outline of the flower looks like a circle.
Triangular - well pronounced narrowing of the petals to the edge. Most often, the petals are directed forward, and the sepals are directed backward, visually forming two triangles superimposed one on the other. Such a silhouette is possible only in single flowers.
Star-shaped - a form inherent in single flowers. The petals and sepals are long and straight, about the same size, making the flower look like a star.
Spiders - petals and sepals have a very elongated and narrow shape.
Cascading - elongated, strongly twisted downward petals.

Interesting!

Cascade-shaped flowers, like "crunchy" and "scapular" ones, as a rule, have spider hybrids. They are distinguished by a narrow and long petal shape, like that of spiders, but with additional features that do not allow them to be attributed to this group.

Crispy - elongated, narrow petals curl at the ends, like wood shavings, can be twisted along the entire length.
Spatulate - narrow petals expand closer to the edge, resembling an oar in shape.
Tubular - the side of the flower resembles a lily.
Flat - the petals are curved only in the region of the core, then they diverge to the sides almost at a right angle, without bending. Due to this, the side of the flower looks flat. The front can be round or star-shaped.

Flower petals can be smooth or embossed. According to the type of relief, there are:

Pleated - the edges of the petals are folded, reminiscent of a frill.
Cristate - the central vein of the petal protrudes upward, the petal can "fold" with the edges down on both sides of it.
Embossed - veins in the form of folds protrude on the surface of the petal.

According to the time of day of flowering, daylilies can be:

Daytime - the opening of flowers occurs in the morning, by the evening they fade.
Nocturnal - blooming in the evening, the flowers fade in the morning or afternoon.
Extended type of flowering - flowers can bloom at different times, withering after 15-20 hours.

Bloom frequency:

Once blooming.
Remontant - re-flowering after a short break.
Continuous flowering - flowering lasts several months.

The best varieties of daylilies with photos and names

The breeder in working on daylilies can focus on size, a combination of complex shapes in one flower, rare colors. A daylily with flowers of true blue or pure white color remains a dream, although there are options as close as possible to the ideal. Valuable qualities varieties are a large number of buds on the peduncle, a long interval between flower opening and wilting, stability of the shade of the petals to the sun's rays, and others.

Daylilies with largest flowers:

On a note!

The diameter of the flowers in spiders is large - up to 30 cm, but the petals are measured in a straightened form. Visually, a spider, especially with cascading or crispy petals, will look smaller than a smaller round flower.

The best terry daylilies:

Best spiders:

When choosing a variety of daylily, you need to specify the indicator of stiffness of the peduncle. The problem with large-flowered daylilies is the inability of the stems to support the weight of the flowers. Because of this, the flower stalks do not stand straight, but lean slightly, which should be taken into account when considering the design of the flower garden.

Daylilies with flowers of rare colors:

The best relief varieties of daylilies:

Daylilies in the garden

High decorativeness, a variety of shades and shapes of flowers, the list of which is constantly expanding by breeders, the ability to harmoniously combine with a large number garden plants makes a daylily good option for the design of a personal plot.

As an accent

Daylily is well suited for the role of an accent that breaks the monotony of the site. The most successful options:

Tall daylily in the corner of a neat lawn.
Combination of ornamental grasses (for example, feather grass, lightning) and daylily. The leaves of the bush, like the stems of cereals, grow in a "fountain", which, with the contrast of their shapes and colors, looks spectacular. It is worth dwelling on the late-flowering daylily varieties, since the cereals are as beautiful as possible in August.
A daylily can emphasize a corner with bamboo thickets. In this case, varieties with flowers of the most natural shape and uniform color should be preferred. The Far Eastern roots of the plant make such combinations especially harmonious.

Single daylilies of medium height look spectacular next to border plants.

Parade variant

In large flower beds, tall daylilies fit well into an ensemble of phloxes, lilies, and astilbes. In this case, the “luxury” of the bush should be emphasized, so you should choose abundantly flowering varieties with large, double flowers, unusual colors, embossed petals, pleated edges, etc.

Separately, it is worth noting phloxes - these are the favorite neighbors of the daylily among designers and gardeners. The shades of phlox flowers make it possible to successfully combine them with purple-lilac daylilies. The spherical shape of the inflorescences is especially organic next to the round or star-shaped daylily flowers.

flower carpet

In flower beds and in small flower beds, daylily looks great among herbaceous undersized plants, but in this case, the importance color harmony. Red daylilies require neighbors with similar but not matching flowers. Orange or yellow, especially if their core is green, can be placed next to flowers in contrasting shades. Yellow daylilies can look good next to other yellow-hued flowers.

On a note!

Daylilies can be successfully combined with plants that have spike-shaped, pyramidal or paniculate inflorescences.

Effective couples:

If the color shade is closer to pink tones red, we need neighbors with purple and purple flowers. For example, polemonium or delphinium is dark purple or maroon in color.
If the shade of red is shifted to the side orange color, there should be yellow flowers nearby, for example, spotted loosestrife, evening primrose. Swamp iris, gelenium and rudbeckia can be placed next to tall daylilies, the last two - near late flowering varieties. The same flowers can be planted next to yellow daylilies - thoughtful autumn notes will appear in the atmosphere of the flower garden.
A contrasting pair of yellow and orange daylilies are bluebells, cornflowers, veronica or Himalayan poppy.
A more refined apricot hue of the flower is best emphasized with etchings of a delicate pastel orange tone.
Pink daylilies need to be gently shaded. Cuff thickets, with their muted yellow-green color, make a great backdrop for these strains.
Daylilies of lilac and crimson shades are in harmony with monards, geraniums, physostegia, lavender, loosestrife. Siberian irises will make a beautiful pair of tall varieties.

Combination with shrubs

The union of a daylily and undersized shrubs with beautiful leaves looks good - tenacity, geyhera. Yellow-leaved varieties of hosta are also suitable, which, like daylily, can grow in sunny areas.

An interesting technique is the planting of a short daylily next to a buzulnik or Rogersia. A similar pair can be made with miscanthus, if you give it a round fit.

You can effectively combine a daylily bush with viburnum, red-leaved barberry, elderberry, panicled hydrangea, ligustrum.

Among flowers with a similar level of decorativeness, daylily should be recognized as a very unpretentious plant. The ability to adapt to the climatic zone makes it accessible to residents of the regions of the middle zone. The trend of recent years in daylily breeding - the obligatory presence of repeated flowering in order for a variety to be recognized as perfect, balances the fact that many masterpiece varieties have early dates flowering. Even if daylily flowers suffer from frost, after two to three weeks the plant will throw out new flower stalks. However, among the daylilies of the middle and late flowering period there are many varieties of amazingly beautiful flowers.

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Conditions for growing daylily - light, soil quality

Daylilies - planting in open ground, technology, selection of seedlings, timing and schemes

Daylily care all year round

Growing a daylily on a plot with step by step photos

Variety selection

Seedling selection

Care

Preparing for winter

Pruning bushes

reproduction

Diseases and pests

Listen to article

Planting and caring for daylilies (in a nutshell)

Daylily flower - description

Growing daylilies in the garden

How to grow a daylily

What colors go with daylilies

Daylily planting

When to plant a daylily

How to plant a daylily

Daylilies after flowering

Types and varieties of daylily

Natural types of daylilies

day lily hybrid

Daylilies of the double group

Spider daylilies (Spiders)

fragrant daylilies

White daylilies

Daylily is an impeccable unpretentious perennial.

Where and how best to plant a daylily?

How to propagate daylily?

When to divide and transplant daylilies?

How to propagate a daylily by dividing a bush:

How to propagate daylily by air layering

Daylilies: basic care

Which daylily to plant: the best varieties

Daylily variety Strutter's Ball (Strathers Bol)

Daylily grade Strawberry Candy (Strawberry sweets)

Daylily variety Stella D'Oro (Stella D'Oro)

Daylily grade Siloam Double Classic (Siloam Double Klasik)

Daylily cultivar Double River Wye (Double River Wai)

flower description

Landing

Features and timing of planting in open ground

How to plant

Soil improvement

Seedling preparation

Outdoor daylily care

spring

The first top dressing

Mulching

Preparing for flowering

autumn

Autumn top dressing

pruning

Potential Growing Problems

Diseases and pests

Daylily propagation methods

seeds

By dividing the bush

Proliferation

The best varieties of daylilies with photos and names

Daylilies in the garden

As an accent

Parade variant

flower carpet

Combination with shrubs

What else to read

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